
Qass- 



Book- 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT 



-) 



THE COMPLETE 
GARDEN 



BOOKS BY ALBERT D. TAYLOR 

Partial List of Plants Available for Various 
Uses in General Landscape Planting 

Street Trees: Their Care and Preservation 

Complete Garden, The 




Plate I. The scarlet thorns planted on both sides of the wall on either 
side of the gate make an excellent frame for this architectural detail at the 
garden entrance. (See Plate XXIV, page 158) 



THE COMPLETE 
GARDEN 

BY 

ALBERT D.TAYLOR, M.S. A. 

Fellow Amirican Society of Landscape Architects 

Non-resident Professor Landscape Architecture 
in Ohio State University 

ASSISTED BY 

GORDON D. COOPER, B.S.A. 

Member American Society of Landscape Architects 




ILLUSTRATED WITH FIFTY FULL PAGE 

CUTS, FOUR LINE CHARTS, AND 

NINE COLOURED PLATES 



GARDEN CITY, N. Y., AND TORONTO 

DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY 
1921 



y 



A 



X p<^fl-'A'» 



•o^^^ 

\\1^^ 



:^'i> 



^i 



1- 



■■<r. 



COPYRIGHT, I92I, BY 

DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY 

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED, INCLUDING THAT OF TRANSLATION 

INTO FOREIGN LANGUAGES, INCLUDING THE SCANDINAVIAN 



m '^5 1921 5 
g)C!.A611799 



^■0 ').' 



PREFACE 

Reasons For This Book. The author has for some time felt that 
there was needed in the landscape field, especially by the amateur 
gardener, a book of this type. He has believed that such a book would 
be of value to everyone who is interested in the important work of 
landscape plantings, not only to the amateur but to the expert gar- 
dener and to the property owner who has made an exhaustive study of 
plant uses and plant adaptations. 

One of the reasons for the publication of these planting lists for differ- 
ent purposes is that it provides a permanent record for future reference. 
There is no good reason why a landscape architect thoroughly familiar, 
as a result of years of experience, study, and observation, with the use of 
plants should devote his time and thought to the compilation of lists 
of plants for different purposes, such as wild gardens, spring gardens, 
rock gardens, and bog gardens in connection with some specific problem 
only to have this list of material cease to exist for the use of others, as 
soon as the work in question is completed. Plant lists compiled by 
capable landscape architects are too frequently used only for one 
problem, thus requiring the next man who starts to work upon a 
similar problem to begin his study, not where the other man left off, 
but at the same point where the other man began, duplicating work and 
wasting much time and energy. It is not meant to imply that all 
ornamental plants can be confined within definite standardized lists 
from which those who attempt to select plants for a specific purpose 
must choose. It is the author's sincere feeling that lists of plants 
compiled as the result of the different studies and investigations con- 
tinually being made, in connection with the landscape problems of 
many clients, may be accepted as a starting point or a reference beyond 
which a planter is at full liberty to go when he wishes to use species and 
varieties which are unusual and rare, or whenever the conditions of his 
specific problem require it. 

The responsibility for the original idea conceived as a basis for the 
development of this book may be traced to the author's experience in 
classroom work and in teaching. In this field of work, from a peda- 



.V\ 



CO 



vi PREFACE 

gogical standpoint, he has felt the need of a systematic classification, 
based upon the association of ideas which would aid in remembering 
and grouping plants. Through learning to know plants by their 
group associations a comprehensive knowledge of them may be gath- 
ered and retained with little effort. One of the easiest ways of memo- 
rizing is through the association of ideas. This is the fundamental 
principle upon which the information in the various groups is based. 
The same condition has been found in office work. Men with the 
greatest range of knowledge covermg the identification of plants and 
the botanical classification of plants have found a smaller book of 
this kind indispensable as a ready reminder of the possibilities of plant 
uses, when working out planting designs. 

The first abridged edition of this book was published in 1916, 
primarily for the use of the author and a few of his friends in pro- 
fessional work. It was largely local in character. It has met with 
such a favourable reception, however, and so many requests have been 
received asking that a book of this kind be continued, and that the field 
be covered by comprehensive information, that this revised edition is 
the result. 

Object of This Book. It is hoped that this book will serve as a 
ready reference to those who have no authoritative source of informa- 
tion, and whose limited opportunity and limited time for observation 
have not enabled them to become familiar with awide range of materials, 
and to keep familiar with it. This information is not compiled for the 
purpose of taking the place of the services of a professional landscape 
architect, where the problem is of sufficient magnitude to justify his 
employment. This book will assist those who, having no available 
sources of reliable information at hand, are prone to accept the advice 
of "landscape quacks" and self-styled landscape architects with little 
training. 

The question is often asked, "What plants- can I use for a specific 
purpose?" This is asked by both professional landscape architects 
and by owners of properties. This book will place at the disposal of 
such persons a list of plants from which species and varieties may be 
selected advisedly. 

The discussion does not by any means represent a complete study 
of this subject. It will take years of checking, verification, and 
criticism, before a compact compilation of this material can be put into 



PREFACE vii 

final shape which will be valuable as a reference in all sections of the 
country, where plants other than tropical are used for landscape effects. 
The correct selection of plants for various purposes in landscape work 
is but a part of the success of landscape plantings. One should know 
not only the correct use of plants as indicated in these lists, but their 
landscape value from the standpoint of their adaptation to design and 
composition, as well as how to plant and to maintain them. For those 
unfamihar with plant materials the information in this book should be 
supplemented with additional information which may be easily 
procured from descriptions in nursery catalogues, encyclopedias, and 
garden books. 

The Essential Character of the Book. The main idea behind 
this method of compiling information for the use of those interested in 
landscape plantings is that of providing a compact reference manual 
from which fundamental information can be easily obtained. In 
reality it is more in the form of a "landscape dictionary." The 
chapters which have been introduced into this volume are a series of 
summarized fundamental principles with reference to the respective 
chapter headings, and they are not in the form of many magazine 
articles, so compiled as to be interesting to many persons who really 
read the articles, not always because of the facts in them, but because 
of the camouflaged outlines. 

The System of Nomenclature. In the compilation of the plant 
lists, and generally throughout the text of the book, an earnest effort 
has been made to conform to the recommendations of the American 
Joint Committee on Horticultural Nomenclature as adopted and 
published in the 1917 official code of standardized plant names. The 
two new rulings of this committee regarding botanical names also have 
been adopted. These rulings are that all botanical names except 
the generic name shall begin with a lower case letter and not with a 
capital letter; and second, that in the case of all specific names hereto- 
fore ending in a double "i" one of these "i's" shall be dropped. Thus 
Berheris Thunbergii will become Berheris thunhergi. Smce this code 
fails to cover many horticultural varieties of plants it has sometimes 
seemed wiser to follow the nomenclature of Bailey's Standard Cyclo- 
pedia of American Horticulture, especially in the case of garden forms 
of plants. An effort has been made to find the most generally accepted 



viiJ PREFACE 

common name for each plant; or, where none was available, to invent a 
common name which would be descriptive of the plant and helpful in 
fixing its valuable characteristics in mind. 

Acknowledgments. For notes on the behaviour of the newer 
introductions and for valuable assistance in the checking of the plant 
Hsts the author is indebted to M. H. Horvath, Landscape Architect, 
Cleveland, Ohio, and to Henry Kohankie, Nurseryman, Painesville, 
Ohio, both of whom have done important work in the introduction 
and testing of many sorts of plants. 

For many valuable observations on the behaviour, hardiness, and 
adaptability of ornamental plants in their respective sections of the 
country the author is indebted to Charles H. Ramsdell, Landscape 
Architect, and Phelps Wyman, Landscape Architect, of Minneapolis, 
Minnesota, and to A. M. Hill, Nurseryman, of Dundee, Illinois. 

In addition the author is indebted : For lists of plants adapted to the 
South Atlantic States, to Charles F. Gillette, Landscape Architect, 
Richmond, Virginia, and to Earle Draper, Landscape Architect, 
Charlotte, North Carolina; and for lists of plants adapted to the 
Oregon and Washington Coastal Plain to Professor Arthur L. Peck 
of the Oregon State Agricultural College at CorvalHs, Oregon. 

For lists of plants and much information concerning planting and 
seeding methods in Florida the author is indebted to E. N. Reasoner, 
Nurseryman, Oneco, Florida; H. H. Hume, Nurseryman, Glen St. 
Mary's, Florida, and C. L. Whipp, Florist, Jacksonville, Florida. 

For much valuable information about the preparation of lawns and 
golf course fairways and greens in Florida the author is indebted to 
O. B. Roche, Superintendent of the Palm Beach Golf Course, Palm 
Beach, Florida, and to J. R. Van Kleek, Sebring, Florida. 

For numerous practical suggestions covering landscape uses and 
notes on the propagation and maintenance of all sorts of ornamental 
plants the writer thanks George Jacques, Superintendent of "Gwinn," 
Bratenahl Village, Ohio; J. R. Brydon, Superintendent of "Glen 
Allen," Cleveland, Ohio, and E. O. Orpet, formerly Superintendent at 
"Walden," Lake Forest, Illinois. 

For unselfish devotion to the oftentimes uninteresting work of copy 
reading, checking, and indexing, without which this work would never 
have been completed, much credit is due to the following members of the 
author's office staff: Gordon D. Cooper, \V. Hoxie Hillary, Lucie L. 



PREFACE Ix 

French, Eleanor Hills Christie, J. R. Van Kleek, E. H. Trout, Frank B. 
Meyer, and Anne C. Thompson. 

For many of the illustrations in this book the author is indebted to 
the following persons: 

Mattie Edwards Hewitt for plates Nos. 12, 21, 26, 44, and 47; 

The D. Hill Nursery Company for plate No. 17; 

Mary E. Eaton for plates Nos. 31, 34, 35, 36, 38, 39, 46, and 49; 

Mr. and Mrs. F. F. Prentiss for plates Nos. 11, 20, 49, 50, 52, 53, 
and 59; 

Mr. W. G. Mather for plates Nos. i, 15, 24, 27, and 28; 

J. Horace McFarland Company for plates Nos. 18, 22, 23, 30, 32, 37, 
40,41, 43, 56, 57, and 58. 

Woodlawn Cemetery Association for plate No. 42; 

The Wm. H. Moon Company for plate No. 7; 

Nathan R. Graves Company for plate No. 33; 

Mr. and Mrs. W. A. Thomas for plate No. 51; 

Mr. and Mrs. Charles F. Lang for plates Nos. 45 and 54. 

Future Cooperation Invited. Corrections and criticisms will be 
always welcomed by the author, and this volume will be enlarged and 
corrected as conditions justify. 

Albert D. Taylor. 

Prospect and Forty-sixth Streets, 

Cleveland, Ohio. 
August I, 1920. 



CONTENTS 

Preface v 

PART I 
General Planting Suggestions 

CHAPTER PACE 

I. Introduction 3 

II. Planting and Seeding Seasons 8 

III. Pruning 18 

IV. Planting and Transplanting 29 

V. Lawns 52 

VI. Bulb Culture 65 

VII. Maintenance 73 

VIII. Winter Protection and Mulching 100 



PART II 

Lists for Reference 

IX. Evergreens 109 

A — Most hardy iii 

B — Best adapted for use in mid-west 112 

C — Not adapted for use in mid-west 113 

D — Adapted to partial shade in wooded areas . . 113 

E — Low-growing, formal types 114 

X. Street and Avenue Planting 115 

A — Trees which are entirely hardy under all condi- 
tions 116 

B — Trees which should be selected with a thorough 
knowledge of the conditions under which they are 

to be used 117 

C — ^Trees which should never be used on streets. . 117 

XL Plants for Use in Congested City Districts 118 

A — Trees 119 

B — Shrubs 120 



CONTENTS 

XII. Plants for Hedges 121 

A — Barriers 123 

a. Holding leaves during winter 123 

b. Not holding leaves during winter . . . 124 
B — Edgings for walks and for garden borders. . . 124 

C — Windbreaks and solid screens 125 

D— Privacy 125 

E — Hedges for bleak exposures 126 

a. Late foliage 126 

b. Close shearing 126 

c. Unsheared low hedges 126 

d. Fruiting hedges 126 

e. Shady places 126 

XIII. Plants for Border Planting 127 

A — Masses for refined lawn areas 128 

a. Low-growing shrubs 128 

b. Medium-growing shrubs 129 

c. Tall-growing shrubs 129 

B — Masses consisting mostly of native collected 

shrubs 130 

a. Low-growing shrubs 130 

b. Medium-growing shrubs 130 

c. Tall-growing shrubs 131 

XIV. Accent and Specimen Trees and Shrubs 132 

A — Trees 133 

a. Accent and specimen trees 133 

b. Columnar and pyramidal trees 134 

B— Shrubs 13s 

XV. Plants Valuable for Use in Rock Gardens, in Japanese 

Gardens, and in Wall Crevices 136 

A — Evergreens 138 

B — Deciduous trees and shrubs 139 

C — Perennials 139 

XVI. Plants for Heavy, Formal Effects 141 

A — Border planting 144 

B — Topiary work and close shearing 145 

a. Evergreen 14S 

b. Deciduous I45 

C — Growing in tubs 146 



CONTENTS xiii 



PAGE 



D — Trees and shrubs for allees . . . ■ . ■ . . . 146 

a. Pleached 146 

b. Not pleached (open allees) 147 

1. Deciduous 147 

2. Evergreen 147 

XVII. Plants for Natural, Informal Effects 148 

XVIII. Low-Growing Plants Along the Inner Side of Curving 

Roadways and at Entrances 150 

A — Evergreen 151 

B — Deciduous 151 

XIX. Trees and Shrubs for Different Flowering Effects . . . 152 
A — Producing flowers in early spring before leaves 

appear 154 

B — Producing flowers in early spring after leaves 

appear 154 

C — Producing flowers during early summer . . . 155 
D — Producing flowers during late summer and early 

autumn 156 

E — Producing flowers in shades of red and pink . . 156 

a. Early-flowering sorts 157 

b. Late spring and summer-flowering sorts . . . 157 
F — Producing yellow flowers 157 

a. Early-flowering sorts 157 

b. Late spring and summer-flowering sorts . . . 158 
G — Producing white flowers 158 

a. Early-flowering sorts 158 

b. Late spring and summer-flowering sorts . . . 158 

H — Producing blue flowers 159 

I — Continuous bloom from twelve shrubs . . . . 159 

XX. Plants Valuable for the Characteristics of Their Fruit. . 160 
A — Producing fruit of peculiarly interesting form or 

size 161 

B — Producing fruit valuable for its colour eflFects . . 162 

C — Producing fruit valuable during the winter months 163 

D — Producing fruit valuable for attracting birds. . 164 

a. Fruiting in summer 165 

b. Holding fruit into the winter months . . . 166 

c. Birds attracted by fruits 166 

E — Producing fruit which attracts birds away from 

other fruits 167 

F — Producing fruit which often makes the plant unde- 
sirable in landscape planting 167 



V CONTENTS 

MTER PAGE 

XXI. Trees and Shrubs Bearing Coloured Twigs i68 

XXII. Plants Valuable Because of the Autumn Colouration of 

the Leaves 171 

A — Early 173 

B — Medium 173 

C — Late 173 

a. Coloured foliage 174 

b. Green foliage 174 

XXIII. Fast-Growing Types Valuable for Producing Screen Effects 176 

A — Trees 177 

B — Shrubs 177 

XXIV. Plants Adapted to Various Types of Soil Conditions . . 178 

A — Boggy and peaty soils 179 

a. Boggy situations 180 

b. Peaty situations 181 

B — Light, sandy soils 181 

a. Trees 181 

b. Shrubs 181 

c. Vines 182 

C — Heavy types of soils 182 

a. Trees 182 

b. Shrubs 182 

c. Vines 183 

D — Trees tolerant of alkali soils . . ^ . . . 183 

E — Drought-resisting plants 183 

XXV. Plants for Exposed Lake Front and River Conditions. . 185 

A — Trees 186 

B— Shrubs 187 

C— Vines . , . * 187 

XXVI. Trees and Shrubs for Seaside Planting 188 

A — Plants hardy under the severe exposure of the 

North Atlantic Coast 189 

a. Deciduous trees 189 

b. Conifers 190 

c. Shrubs 190 

B — Plants hardy in the less severe seaside exposures. 190 

a. Deciduous trees 191 

b. Conifers 191 

c. Shrubs 191 

XXVII. Plants for Partially Shaded Locations 192 



CONTENTS XV 



PAGE 



XXVIII. Plants for Undergrowth Planting in Wooded Areas . 194 

A — Shrubs and small trees ig6 

B — Ground-cover plants 197 

XXIX. Plants for Ground Cover igg 

A — Moist locations 203 

B — Dry locations 204 

C — Shady locations 205 

D — Ferns 205 

a. Dry, shady places 206 

b. Moist, shady places 206 

E — Embankments and rocky slopes 206 

a. Shrubs 206 

b. Perennials 207 

c. Vines 207 

F — Small-flowering and foliage plants for crevices be- 
tween stepping-stones and for paved terrace areas 208 

G — Perennials adapted to open sunny exposures . 208 

H — Ground cover among rhododendrons and azaleas. 209 

I — Ground cover among roses 210 

XXX. Game Cover Plants 211 

A — Foliage, buds, and blossoms (Spring cover) . 212 

B — Nuts or seeds (Autumn cover) 212 

XXXI. Perennials for Different Purposes 214 

A — Hardy perennials for general use . . . . . 221 

B — Perennials according to colour and season. . . 222 

a. Perennials for spring — purple, lavender, or blue 
flowers 222 

b. Perennials for spring — white flowers .... 222 

c. Perennials for spring — pink to crimson flowers . 223 

d. Perennials for spring — yellow to orange flowers. 223 

e. Perennials for summer — purple, lavender, or blue 
flowers 224 

f. Perennials for summer — white flowers . . 224 

g. Perennials for summer — pink to crimson flowers 225 
h. Perennials for summer — yellow to orange flowers 225 
i. Perennials for autumn — purple, lavender, or blue 

flowers 226 

j. Perennials for autumn — white flowers . . . 226 

k. Perennials for autumn — pink to crimson flowers 226 

I. Perennials for autumn — yellow to orange flowers 227 



xvi CONTENTS 



APTER 



C — Perennials for naturalizing in wild garden areas . 227 

a. Tall types 227 

b. Low types 228 

D — Perennials for long flowering period .... 228 
E — Perennials seldom used in small, refined, formal 

gardens 229 

F — Perennials to supply "perpetual bloom" . . 230 

G — Perennials for use among peonies 230 

H — Perennials for good blooming combinations . 231 

I — Perennials valuable for cut flowers 232 

J — Perennials which should be treated as biennials . 233 

K — Perennials to be transplanted frequently . . 233 

a. To be divided every two years 233 

b. To be divided every three years 233 

c. To be divided each year 234 

L — Perennials for water planting 234 

a. Deep water 234 

b. Shallow water 234 

c. Land at the water-side 234 

M — Perennials for planting against the shrub border 235 

N — Perennials for attracting humming birds . . . 236 

XXXIL Annuals 237 

A — Annuals especially valuable for cut flowers . . 239 
B — Annuals to be sown for ground cover .... 240 
C — Annuals which are difficult to transplant success- 
fully 241 

D — Annuals which should be planted in several sow- 
ings to insure a succession of bloom .... 241 
E — Annuals to be started indoors in order to produce 

good bloom before frost 242 

F — Annual vines 242 

a. Delicate foliage 242 

b. Heavy foliage 242 

G — Annuals for carpet bedding 243 

H — Annuals for design bedding 245 

XXXIIL Horticultural Varieties, Select List of 247 

A — Lilacs 249 

B — Peonies 250 

C — Small flowering trees 250 



CONTENTS xvii 



PAGE 



D — Roses 251 

a. Best climbing roses 251 

b. Hardiest garden roses 251 

1. Hybrid perpetual, crimson and red . . . 251 

2. Hybrid perpetual, pink 251 

3. Hybrid perpetual, white. 251 

4. Yellow 251 

5. Moss 251 

c. Best hybrid tea roses 251 

E — Broad-leaved evergreens 252 

a. Rhododendrons and azaleas 252 

b. Other broad-leaved evergreens 252 

F — Lilies 253 

a. List of lilies 253 

b. Easy culture in garden soil 256 

c. Moist and boggy locations 256 

d. Calcareous soil 257 

e. Open sun 257 

f. Undergrowth 257 

g. Sandy or dry soils 257 

h. Clay soil 257 

i. Shady locations 257 

XXXIV. Vines 258 

A — Flowering 260 

B — Use on brick, stone, and masonry 260 

C — Climbing habit and heavy foliage 260 

D — Fruiting 261 

E — Fast-growing 261 

XXXV. Window Boxes and Hanging Baskets 262 

A — Window boxes 264 

a. South or west exposure 264 

b. East exposure 264 

c. North exposure 265 

B — Hanging baskets 265 

a. Vine-like habit 265 

b. Upright habit and good flowers 266 

c. Upright habit and good foliage 266 

XXXVL Bulbs 267 

A— Refined lawn and garden areas 270 

B — Naturalizing in woodland and wild gardens . 270 

C — Narcissi for different locations 271 



xviii CONTENTS 

CHAPTER PACK 

D — Tulip combinations 271 

a. Single 271 

b. Double 272 

c. Cottage 272 

d. Darwin 272 

E — Best varieties for forcing 273 

a. Forcing in soil 273 

b. Forcing in water 274 

XXXVII. Fragrant Plants 275 

A — Fragrant flowers 275 

a. Shrubs 275 

b. Trees 276 

c. Perennials 276 

B — Fragrant leaves 277 

a. Trees and shrubs 277 

b. Perennials 277 

XXXVIII. Poisonous Plants 278 

A — Internally poisonous 279 

B — Skin irritants 280 

C — Causing hay fever 280 

XXXIX. Ornamental Plants Subject to Disease and Insect Pests . 282 
XL. Plants Difficult to Transplant and Those Adapted for 

Transplanting at Specific Seasons of the Year . . 286 

A — Plants which should be transplanted in autumn . 289 

B — Plants which should be transplanted in spring 289 

C — Plants which are transplanted with little success. 290 

a. Plants to be rarely if ever transplanted . 290 

b. Plants which recover slowly from the operation 

of transplanting 290 

XLI. Shrubs for Forcing in Water in Early Spring .... 292 

XLII. Pruning Lists 294 

A — Shrubs needing complete pruning 296 

a. Spring and early summer flowering .... 296 

b. Late summer and fall flowering 297 

B — Shrubs needing removal of old wood only. . . 297 

a. Summer pruning 297 

b. Winter pruning 297 

C — Trees which require little or no pruning . . 298 

D — Evergreens that should be pruned in May orjune 298 

E — Evergreens that may be pruned at any time. 298 



CONTENTS xix 

CBAPTER PAGE 

XLIII. Plants for Florida 299 

A — Windbreaks 300 

B — Trees for street and specimen planting . . . 301 

a. Northern list 301 

b. Southern list 301 

C — Vines 302 

a. Lattices and wire fences 302 

b. Masonry walls 303 

D — Shrubs with attractive fruit. 303 

E — Hedges 304 

a. Middle and southern Florida 305 

b. Northern Florida 305 

F — Flowering shrubs for middle and southern Florida 305 

a. White flowers 305 

b. Pink flowers 306 

c. Yellow flowers 306 

d. Red flowers 307 

e. Purple and blue flowers 307 

G — Ground-cover plants 307 

H — Shrubs for shady conditions 308 

I — Herbaceous plants 308 

J — Plants for seashore planting 310 

a. Trees 310 

b. Shrubs 310 

c. Vines 311 

XLIV. Plants for Minnesota 312 

A — Hedges 313 

a. Barriers 313 

b. Windbreaks 313 

B — Ground cover 313 

a. Shrubs 313 

b. Vines 314 

C — Plants valuable for autumn colouration of leaves. 314 

a. Early 314 

b. Medium 314 

D — Heavy, formal eff"ects 314 

E — ^Street trees 315 

a. Entirely hardy under all conditions .... 315 

b. Which should be selected with a thorough knowl- 
edge of the conditions under which they are to 

be used 315 



CONTENTS 

rER PAGB 

F — Evergreens most used . 315 

G — Not hardy in Minnesota 316 

XLV. Plants for South Atlantic States 318 

A — Ground cover 319 

a. Moist places 319 

b. Dry places 319 

B — Hedges 320 

a. Holding leaves throughout winter 320 

b. Not holding leaves throughout winter . . . 321 

C — Trees for street planting 321 

D — Evergreens most used 322 

E — Formal effects 322 

F— Border planting 323 

a. Low-growing deciduous shrubs 323 

b. Low-growing evergreen shrubs 324 

c. Medium-growing deciduous shrubs .... 325 

d. Medium-growing evergreen shrubs . . . .326 

G — Fruit valuable for its colour effects 327 

H — Specimen trees and shrubs 327 

a. Trees 327 

b. Shrubs 329 

I — Perennials for gardens and cut flowers .... 329 

J — Perennials for naturalizing in wild gardens . . 330 
K — Plants which are commonly and freely used in the 

south but are not hardy farther north .... 331 

a. Trees 331 

b. Shrubs 332 

L — ^Vines for the south 332 

XLVL Plants for Use on the Oregon and Washington Coastal 

Plain 334 

A— Hedges 335 

a. Deciduous 335 

b. Evergreen 335 

B — Plants for ground cover 335 

a. Open sun 336 

b. Shade 336 

C — Plants for border planting 336 

a. Refined lawn masses 337 

b. Native and collected plants 337 

D — Street and avenue planting 337 

E — Plants for heavily shaded locations .... 337 



CONTENTS xxi 

F — Plants valuable for autumn colouration of leaves 338 

G — Vines 338 

H — Evergreens most used 339 

a. Conifers 339 

b. Broad-leaved 339 

Bibliography 343 

Glossary 3SS 

Index , ....'. ■■% . . 378 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 

PLATE PACK 

I. The scarlet thorns planted on both sides of the wall on either side of the 
gate make an excellent frame for this architectural detail at the garden 
entrance Frontispiece 

II. This map shows those portions of the United States which because of 
climatic environment and geographic location possess similar planting 
seasons. Investigation of zones of similar planting seasons has, to date, 
not provided complete information to the landscape architect in his 
planting work. For supplementary information refer to Plate No. 
Ill on Page 14. (In colour) 6 

III. Achart toaid in determining the most favourable period for transplanting, 
and for seeding of lawns in various sections of the United States. Note 
the long winter periods of the Northern Zones and the continuous 
planting seasons of the Southern Zones. It is of great importance to be 
able to plan ahead and to order plants for delivery at the proper time for 
any section of the country. These are average seasons resulting from 
observations of normal seasons during a period of years. For supple- 
mentary information refer to Plate No. II on Page 6 14 

IV. The hedge which may look unkept and ragged if not pruned will in the 
hands of the skilled gardener assume almost any degree of refined out- 
line. These photographs show one of our most desirable hedge plants, 

the Japanese privet {Ligustrum ibota) 20 

V. The correct pruning of trees and shrubs is a great factor in the successful 
maintenance of landscape plantings. These diagrammatic drawings 
together with the explanations on the opposite page illustrate correct 
and incorrect methods of pruning 24 

VI. A knowledge of the various operations involved in the work of correctly 
transplanting plants is essential for their subsequent normal develop- 
ment. These diagrammatic drawings accompanied by the explanation 
on the opposite page illustrate various transplanting operations. . . 34 

VII. Immediately after transplanting, the trunk of every large tree should be 
protected with a covering of burlap (Fig. B) which prevents excessive 
drying out and consequent cracking and loosening of the bark (Fig. 
A). This protection is especially necessary during the warmer summer 
months 40 

VIII. To most of us in the northern states the method of seeding a lawn is 
familiar, but the method of making lawns in southern states by planting 
Bermuda grass is little known. In these photographs small clumps of 
Bermuda grass are being planted in "hills" staggered at intervals ranging 
from eighteen inches to thirty inches. The thicker the planting the 

more quickly a mat of turf can be developed 41 

xxiii 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 



IX. It is important to know the depth, distance apart, and time of the year 
at which different kinds of bulbs should be planted. Many disappoint- 
ing flower effects are the result of violating these rules with reference to 
depth, distance apart, and time of planting 46 

X. Trees are given winter protection both against injury from sun-scald 
and against iniury from severe wind and changing temperature condi- 
tions. This photograph shows one method of protecting hemlocks 
against the sun's rays 62 

XI. The list of evergreens adapted to soil and to climatic conditions of the 
middle west, and valuable for low, refined mass plantings is limited. 
The upper photograph shows an effect produced by the use of dwarf yew, 
Pfitzer's and tamarisk-leaved junipers, Mugho pines and Japanese spurge 
edging. The lower photograph shows the efl^ectiveness of masses of low, 
refined evergreens against massive architecture 63 

XII. Under climatic and soil conditions favourable to their growth evergreens 
will produce a landscape picture incapable of reproduction through the 
use of deciduous plants. I his photograph shows an effective use, under 
Long Island conditions, of arborvitae, red cedars, junipers, rhododen- 
dron, and yews as a background for a refined, formal pool .... 78 

XIII. Carefully selected and planted trees for avenue and street planting 
provide a uniform and a symmetrical effect together with the inviting 
shade, all of which are so essential to the standards of modern residential 
districts 79 

XIV. The list of trees and shrubs which thrive in the congested city districts 
where soil conditions are poor and the air is polluted with smoke and 
dust is limited to a few kinds, of which the tree of heaven, locust, and 
catalpa are typical 94 

XV. An interesting use of hedges to frame one side of the refined formal 
garden. Japanese quince on the left side of the walk. Japanese bar- 
berry against the right side accented with sheared retinosporas, and 
buttresses of Japanese quince and Amoor River privet on the extreme 
left against the vine-covered wall, form the features of this compo- 
sition 95 

XVI. Plume-like cypress, naturally a small tree, can be maintained as a com- 
pact and a very formal low hedge if given plenty of skillful pruning 
and protection in winter 1 10 

XVII. The Canadian hemlock, when grown from the northern seed and when 
well established, forms one of the best windbreaks and barriers for the 
protection of the garden or orchard wherever drifting snow must be over- 
come and seclusion also attained no 

XVIII. Upon a spacious lawn effective use can occasionally be made of trees 
and shrubs possessing symmetrical habits of growths and fine flowering 
and fruiting qualities. The deutzia is a shrub with these capabilities, 
but it is seldom seen as a specimen plant. Restraint, however, must be 
observed and a dotted effect avoided 1 10 

XIX. The extended lawn area often requires specimen trees to lend scale 
and colour to the picture, and it also offers opportunity to display the 
natural beauty of many of our fine specimen trees ill 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 



XX. An effective combination of stone work and of plantings in an informal 
lawn area. Varieties of stonecrop, moss pinks, and Scotch pinks lend 
charm to an otherwise uninteresting mass of stone. (See Plate No. 
LIII, Page 334, for lily planting shown in background of this picture.) 126 

XXI. An uninteresting rocky slope often can be turned into an attractive 
landscape feature through the careful selection and planting of plants 
adapted to light, sandy soils. This slope is covered with a grouping 
of hardy pinks, evergreen candytuft, saxifrage, and tufted pansy . 127 

XXII. To develop a successful rock garden, not only must the stones be well 
placed, but the plants must be selected to produce an effect in keeping 
with the scale of the garden; otherwise the effect will be that of a 
collection of stones which overpower the garden picture, as shown 
above 142 

XXIII. To few of us does the term "wall garden" convey a definite im- 
pression. Yet how frequently the opportunity comes, even in a small 
way, to change a wall of rock to a wall of flowers and foliage. In 
this photograph we see Scotch pinks, creeping phlox, golden tuft, 
tunica, and other similar plants used to excellent advantage . . 143 

XXIV. An interior view of a pleached allee eight years after transplanting. 
Note the spacing of the larger plants of the European cork maple 
at intervals of three feet, with "fillers" between each two of the 
larger trees. Compare with Plate No. XXVII on Page 175 for the ex- 
terior view. Openings have been cut in the top of this allee to pro- 
duce interesting spots of sunlight on the walk 158 

XXV. An excellent illustration of pleasing garden formality filled with box- 
wood hedges, as edgings for carpet plantings of Japanese spurge, and 
accented with specimens of California privet neatly trimmed in a 
pyramidal form to represent boxwood lyg 

XXVI. The use of bay trees in tubs is required in many of the northern gar- 
dens to produce accent points often at spots where no permanent plant 
can be planted in the ground. These trees are stored in cool green- 
houses during the winter months 174 

XXVII. A pleached allee may form not only a most interesting feature as 
shown on Plate No. XXIV, Page 158, but this one serves as a solid 
screen between the lawn area and the service buildings .... 175 

XXVIII. This open allee is framed on either side by a solid row of closely 
sheared thorn trees. Its formal lines are softened by the row of pink- 
flowering dogwoods which add a charm of flowers in early spring and 
of fruit in the late fall. Thorns planted four to five feet apart and 
dogwoods eight feet apart. Width between rows of thorns twenty- 
two feet and between rows of dogwoods nine to ten feet. (See ex- 
planation of measurements>on Page 144) igo 

XXIX. An open allee twelve feet wide and eight hundred feet long, developed 
by the use of white birch planted three to four feet apart in each row. 
For a permanent allee of this type the birch is not ideal because of its 
short-lived characteristics and susceptibility to borer. Thorns or the 
European beech would be preferable 191 

XXX. A group of Japanese snowball, producing flowers in spring soon after 
the leaves appear, adds much to the attractiveness of a landscape 
picture 206 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 



PLATE 

XXXI. 



XXXII. 



XXXIII. 



XXXIV. 



XXXV. 



XXXVI. 



XXXVII. 



XXXVIII. 



XXXIX. 



XL. 



PACB 

It is quite important in the planting of the spring garden that the 
designer should know those shrubs which produce flowers before 
the leaves appear, similar to the Carolina azalea (B), and those 
early-flowering shrubs which produce flowers and leaves at the same 
time, similar to the bladder-nut (A). (In colour) 214 

In the permanent planting no flowering tree or shrub deserves more 
favourable consideration than the fine type of Scheidecker's semi- 
double rose-flowering crab illustrated above 222 

As a specimen flowering plant for early spring efl^ect the Japanese 
weeping rose-flowered cherry is extremely interesting, covered 
always before the leaves appear with an abundance of rose-pink 
flowers 223 

It is a source of much satisfaction to the plant designer to know 
that shrubs which are carefully selected for the colour of their 
flowers may produce very effective colour combinations. This 
plate shows the St. John's wort (A) in combination with the sweet- 
scented buddleia (B). (In colour) 230 

The average person who has not become interested in the colour 
effects produced by the fruits of our common trees and shrubs can 
hardly appreciate the intense colour display of the American bitter- 
sweet (A), the Washington thorn (B), and the white fringe (C). 
(In colour.) 230 

The garden designer must always bear in mind that many of our 
shrubs which produce very uninteresting flowers are the ones which 
produce our most attractive fruiting effects. The variation in 
colours of the fruits ranges from the pure white of the snowberry 
(A) through the purple and porcelain blue of the beauty fruit (C) 
to the vivid reds of which the Japanese bush cranberry (B) is 
typical. (In colour) 230 

Not only because of the interesting colour of its fruit in combination 
with the fruit of other shrubs, but because of the size and abundance 
of its fruit, the snowberry is one of our conspicuous and valuable 
shrubs 238 

During the winter months when there is little else in the shrub 
border to attract attention, the vivid colours of the twigs of many 
of our shrubs present interesting spots of colour against the back- 
ground of evergreens or snow. (A) — red-twigged dogwood; (B) — 
green-stemmed dogwood; (C) — red birch; (D) — golden-twigged 
osier; (E) — grey dogwood; (F) — striped maple. (In colour) . . 246 

What is more beautiful in the landscape than the intensely brilliant 
colours of the autumn foliage of many of our trees and shrubs? 
More plants should be used for the value of their autumn foliage 
effect. (A) — burning bush; (B) — dark green golden bell; (C)— 
maple-leaved viburnum; (D) — sassafras; (E) — maidenhair tree; 
(F) — sourwood. (In colour) 247 

In solving the difficult planting problems on exposed lake fronts 
and river fronts there is no plant in the limited list of adaptable 
types to excel the beach-plum 254 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 



FLATS PAGE 

XLI. The problem of developing desirable undergrowth plantings in 
wooded areas requires much study of plants as nature places them. 
The rhododendron, except in exposed locations, is "happy" in wood- 
land areas where soil conditions meet the root requirements . . . 255 

XLII. In open sunny exposures on sandy or light loam soil there is no 
ground cover which surpasses the Japanese spurge in richness of 
colour or interesting texture of foliage, especially in combination 
with plantings of evergreens 270 

XLIII. Our garden steps can be made a part of the flower garden, and not 
the usual cold and uninviting mass of stone or brick, by a well- 
designed grouping of plants adapted for growth in the earth crevices 
among the rocks. Note the use of candytuft, ground phlox, moss 
pinks, varieties of stonecrops, and rock cress 271 

XLIV. The large garden filled with perennials usually consists of larger 
groups of flowering perennials which produce masses of colour 
during their period of bloom. Iris, phlox, hollj'hocks, gladioli, 
larkspur, and anemone produce the more important flower eff"ects in 
this garden 286 

XLV. A cut-flower garden; the central part filled with annuals and the 
outer border of perermials serving as a frame with shrubs in the 
extreme background. A garden of this kind can have a succession 
of bloom throughout the flowering season 287 

XLVI. Many of our common garden perennials possess the possibilities to 
produce very interesting colour efl^ects through the colour combina- 
tions of the flowers. (A) — Italian alkanet; (B) — hardy marguerite. 
(In colour) 294 

XLVII. During the early spring no woodland wild garden is complete without 
its quota of trilliums, grape hyacinth, and hepatica which grow lux- 
uriantly if happily surrounded by conditions of soil and shade . . 302 

XLVTII. Among those plants which become easily established in the wild 
garden there is none the flower eff'ect of which excels ^the Japanese 
windflower during the late summer 303 

XLIX. In the selection of perennials for the garden not only should the 
possibilities of interesting colour combinations in the flower efl^ects be 
observed, but also the possibilities for interesting texture of foliage. 
(A) — larkspur; (B) — lemon lily (commonly called day lily). (In 
colour) 310 

L. A few water-lilies may enhance a picture such as the above, but a 

proper restraint in their use and control is always desirable . . . 318 

LI. The artificial lake or pond may receive a natural effect if the banks 
near the water's edge are planted with groups of water-loving plants. 
In this picture one sees the marsh-mallow, day-lily, iris, plantain- 
lily, loosestrife, plume grass, and showy sedum successfully used. . 319 

LII. There are those who much prefer to develop their formal flower garden 
picture entirely by the use of annuals. This garden which is not for 
a source of cut flowers is filled with heliotrope, yellow tulip poppy, 
snapdragon, pentstemon, annual carnation, candytuft, and others not 
recognizable from this picture 334 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 



PLATE PACE 

LIII. An informal planting of Scotch pines and Mugho pines may be ac- 
cented by the use of a few specimens of lilies to brighten the landscape 
picture as well as to serve as a background for the flowering effect of 
the lilies 334 

LIV. The knotweed is not only one of the most rapid-growing vines, but 
its abundance of delicate white flowers and its long-blooming period 
make it valuable for many locations on the lattice framework. A — 
First summer after transplanting; B — Second summer after trans- 
planting 334 

LV. One of the best vines for use on masonry walls is the Boston ivy, but 
no vine should be allowed to overpower fine architectural details. 
This illustration also shows a perfectly developed European beech 
hedge (ten years old) planted in a single row with plants eighteen 
inches apart 335 

LVI. A pleasing combination of the vigorous climbing wisteria used to- 
gether with window boxes filled with periwinkle to relieve the heavy 
and otherwise bare architectural effect 350 

LVII. Nasturtiums, marigolds, English ivy, periwinkle, and petunias make 
a window box foliage and flower effect which adds greatly to the attrac- 
tiveness of any home 350 

LVIII. During the months of April and May the flower garden filled with 
refined types of tulips carefully arranged to produce masses of colour 
is the equal of the garden at any other month of the growing season. 
This garden is filled with the tall types of Darwin tulips. . . . 350 

LIX. With the first touch of spring the crocus begins to bloom upon the 
lawn. This plant can adapt itself either to the refined lawn area or 
to the woodland and field areas 351 

LX. There is always an opportunity, on every larger estate, for the natural- 
izing of bulbs. Poet s narcissus is quite happy in a wild garden or 
field environment 366 

LXI. Throughout the southern states the creeping fig is one of the most 
desirable vines for growth on masonry walls. It develops interesting 
foliage of a fine texture and is a vigorous grower and compares favour- 
ably with the Lowe's Boston ivy so successfully used in the northern 
states 367 

LXII. Used as a tree for screen effects, specimen planting, or hedges, the 
Australian pine is throughout southern Florida one of the most 
freely used plants 374 

LXIII. The yellow allamanda desirable because of its heavy foliage, and be- 
cause of its beautiful yellow flowers, is frequently neglected for use in 
Florida plantings as a shrub or a vine 375 



PART I 
GENERAL PLANTING SUGGESTIONS 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



CHAPTER I 
INTRODUCTION 

The Method of Treatment. The lists of plants do not represent 
a complete and thoroughly exhaustive study of the subject. The 
general discussions and groupings will provide persons interested in the 
use of plant materials with essential facts, in a compact form, con- 
cerning the appropriate use of the more permanent species of trees, 
shrubs, vines, perennials, annuals, and bulbs. 

The study of plants and their specific uses in landscape planting 
can to some extent be analyzed and tabulated for reference purposes 
in the same way that plants are grouped for purposes of identification. 
This study, however, is not based entirely upon scientific facts, and 
therefore is subject to personal points of view, and many times no 
hard and fast line can be drawn which will place any one plant in 
one list in preference to the possibility of placing it in some other list. 

The Arrangement of the Material. At the beginning of each 
main group, and at the beginning of each sub-heading under the main 
groups, there is a short discussion of the fundamental principles 
governing that particular type of classification of plants for landscape 
uses. This discussion will be of some assistance by way of enabling 
the reader properly to consult the lists contained under these headings. 

A number of chapters are included in this discussion, devoted to the 
following subjects: Pruning, Planting Seasons, Planting and Trans- 
planting, Maintenance, Winter Protection and Mulching, Lawns, 
Selection and Planting of Bulbs. The author feels that there should 
be in a book of this kind a concise statement of the fundamental prin- 
ciples which govern work in this field of Landscape Plantings. These 
chapters are in no way a complete discussion of these subjects. They 
are more in the form of instructions and specifications which will serve 

3 



4 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

as a guide in the right direction. For further and more complete 
information on these subjects reference should be made to the Bibli- 
ography (Pages 343 to 351), both of articles and of books, contained in 
the Appendix to this volume. The author has compiled a bibliography 
of articles and books which are of distinct value to the reader. But 
there are many other articles and books, of great interest and value to 
readers, some of which probably have escaped the author's attention 
and should be included in this list. This list will be revised from 
time to time. 

The Use of the Index. This book is indexed very completely 
and in detail and has a reference both to pages and to groups. The 
reader will note that the book has been paged in the usual manner, 
and also that on each page the groups have been alphabetically ar- 
ranged for the purpose of making it more easy to consult information 
as referred to by the Table of Contents and by the Group Index. As a 
matter of fact, this Index is almost equally as valuable as the complete 
list of plants under each of the various groups. By means of this 
Index the student who is familiar with some plant and wishes to find a 
proper use for it can readily ascertain the use or uses to which the plant 
is adapted. 

The Purpose of the Illustrations. A number of photographs 
and drawings have been introduced throughout this volume. These 
photographs are illustrative of various group ideas covering uses of 
plants. Words, however carefully selected, often cannot be a literal 
interpretation of an idea, whereas a photograph immediately conveys 
the definite idea which cannot be reproduced in words. These il- 
lustrations have been selected, so far as possible, to illustrate the main 
features which justify the making of an individual group for reference 
purposes. It is hoped that they may for that reason prove to be of 
great value. 

Method of Using the Book. Theoretically, a treatise on any sub- 
ject should be so simplified that to the average reader the method of 
using it is self-evident. However, a few suggestions covering the 
methods of consulting the information in this volume may not be 
amiss. The Table of Contents, which is a complete compilation 
of all the general information in this volume, is arranged with 



INTRODUCTION S 

many larger and more important headings to include the many minor 
headings. It is here that the reader can easily find reference to lists 
of plants which are valuable for specific uses by exactly the inverse 
process that he can find from the Index a reference to the different 
purposes for which an individual plant may be used. To the reader 
who is seeking to find a list of plants which can be used for a specific 
purpose, first, the Table of Contents and the List of Illustrations are of 
direct and primary value. To the reader who is seeking to find for 
what specific uses any plant may be adapted, secondly, the Index to 
pages and groups of plants is of greatest importance. To the reader 
who wishes to go farther into the subject of plant study, as covered by 
various phases of landscape work, thirdly, the Bibliography is the one 
reference which will be of value. The complete glossary containing a 
complete list of definitions covering terms frequently used by landscape 
architects is of real value in defining such terms. 

The criticism may be raised by some who consult a volume of this 
kind that in reality no definite line can be drawn between the uses of 
some plants for one purpose or for another purpose. This is admittedly 
a fact. It will be quite evident from a short study of the Index that 
many plants frequently have a distinct and definite value as adapted to 
different purposes. 

Range of Material Covered. While the range of material 
covered by the lists is sufficient to meet the requirements of the average 
property holder, the lists may be supplemented by additional and 
unusual varieties which, if selected, should be given unusual care. 
The information in this book has been compiled to cover the range of 
material which is adapted for use generally throughout the following 
portions of the United States: The North Atlantic States, the 
Great Lakes Region, the Central States as far west as the Missouri 
River and as far south as Arkansas. No lists have been compiled for 
the Great Plains and the Rocky Mountain States, but special lists 
have been compiled for the Atlantic Coastal Plain from Virginia to 
Mississippi; also for the Peninsula of Florida and for the region within 
a radius of one hundred and fifty miles from the Twin Cities. For the 
Pacific Coast, lists have been prepared for the Oregon-Washington 
Coastal Plain. It should be borne in mind that plants which develop 
one type of growth in a northern climate will develop another type of 
growth, because of the longer growing season, in a southern climate. 



6 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

The Range of Plant Adaptation in General. After studying a 
compilation of this kind the great range of plant adaptations becomes 
evident. There is a large group of materials which are hardy under 
almost all conditions. There are many other types of material, how- 
ever, too numerous to mention in detail, which are adapted only to 
specific sections of the country. 

The Adaptation of Evergreens in Particular. The question 
of the adaptation of evergreens is perhaps the one which may cause 
the most serious discussion. Evergreens are a group of plants which 
possess widely varying characteristics, especially of hardiness under 
different climatic conditions. The evergreens which will flourish in the 
humid and less severe atmosphere of Long Island will not grow through 
the windy regions of the Middle West, nor in the extreme exposure of 
the water-front conditions of the North Atlantic and the Great Lakes 
Region. Neither will evergreens which flourish in the sandy soils of 
Michigan grow upon the clay soils of the Middle Western States. 
Therefore, the question of evergreens has been carefully considered, and 
an attempt has been made to differentiate the groups and the require- 
ments of each. This subdividing of evergreens for various locations 
is based entirely upon the normal protection. Many evergreens, as 
with other plants, will thrive under abnormal conditions if they are 
nursed and protected during the severe winter months. On the other 
hand, many evergreens which will withstand the exposures of winter 
conditions will not continue to thrive when placed in the clayey soils 
of some of our Middle Western States, where they are subjected to the 
severe baking and drying out of these soils during the summer months. 

Method of Grouping Plants. The question of whether plants for 
landscape use should be grouped according to height or according to 
other characteristics, such as season of bloom, character of growth, 
soil adaptations, etc., is one that has been discussed to a considerable 
extent. The writer feels that in the selection of plants as a part of any 
landscape design, the question of height is of secondary consideration 
as compared with the natural characteristics and adaptations of the 
stock under consideration. The selection of plants for specific pur- 
poses such as background planting, undergrowth planting, windbreaks, 
ground cover, etc., implies that, in addition to other important char- 
acteristics of hardiness, compactness, and qualities of fruiting and 



INTRODUCTION 7 

flowering, such plants fulfill the requirements of height automatically 
imposed by some few groups. Height of plants means little to the 
landscape designer as compared with the many other important 
requirements of foliage effects, character of fruits and flowers, soil 
adaptations, hardiness and habits of growth and their response to 
pruning operations. 

In the selection of garden perennials questions of height are entirely 
secondary to the ability of the plants to produce flowers and foliage of 
varying qualities, so essential to the success of the garden picture 
during diff^erent months of the growing season. 



CHAPTER II 
PLANTING AND SEEDING SEASONS 

General Considerations. Comparative data based on the best 
reliable sources of information relative to planting seasons and lawn- 
seeding seasons are so interesting and so valuable, as a basis of es- 
tablishing definite relationships among varying sections of the United 
States, that the writer has been prompted to attempt a diagrammatic 
and a tabulated analysis of this important question (See Plate III). 

Considered from the standpoint of a plant the act of transplanting 
is a violent one and consists of stopping at once a large part of its vital 
activities, generally causing the loss of a considerable part of its root 
system. Therefore, transplanting should be accompanied by pre- 
cautions to prevent too great loss of moisture by transpiration, and by 
measures to assist the plant m startmg growth at the earliest possible 
date. Seeding differs from transplanting in that a seed is a ripened 
embryo which is a minute but complete dormant plant. As the 
process of germination includes the making of a vital connection be- 
tween the young plant and the soil sufficient to enable the plant 
to produce green tissue and support itself, seed age must also be sur- 
rounded by precautions to insure proper conditions for germination. 
One of the most important factors in transplantmg or seeding is the 
selection of the correct season, because upon the successful start of the 
operation depends the whole future of the plant. Plants grown in pots, 
or so root pruned that nearly all their roots may be moved with them, 
are, of course, in condition to be moved at all sorts of odd seasons, but 
this latter is the work of experts or trained gardeners and is not to be 
recommended to amateurs on account of the technical knowledge and 
skill required both during the planting operation and in the way of 
proper after-care and maintenance. This discussion is confined to 
transplanting dormant plants and to seeding of lawns, under the fol- 
lowing headings : 

(a) Deciduous Trees, Shrubs, and Vines 

(b) Evergreen Plants Coniferous and Broad-leaved) 



PLANTING AND SEEDING SEASONS 9 

(c) Herbaceous Perennials 

(d) Lawn Grasses 

Greenhouse plants and the propagation of plants by seeding, ex- 
cept as referring to lawn grasses, are not included because condi- 
tions vary so widely in the same locality. 

Deciduous Trees, Shrubs, and Vines. The transplanting of 
deciduous trees, shrubs, and vines is commonly carried out during their 
dormant season. It is possible in the spring, however, to carry on 
plantmg of deciduous woody plants, at a time when the local plants are 
too far advanced to be moved, by the simple expedient of bringing 
plants from a storage cellar or from a more northerly nursery where 
they are still dormant. Again in the autumn, these same northerly 
grown plants may be used to start planting work before the local 
plants are matured and safe to move. Transplanting seasons are 
not so much governed by north and south latitude as they are by 
the condition of the plants, as explained in another paragraph under 
discussion of life-zones. 

The beginning of the dormant period for woody deciduous plants 
comes in the autumn when their wood is matured and ripened and the 
leaves start to fall or to take on their autumn colouration. This occurs 
early in such plants as lilacs, lindens, flowering currants, and horse- 
chestnuts, and it will usually be found to occur late in some of the 
plants which are said to be hard to move in the autumn, such as poplars 
and silver maples. From the beginning of the dormant period in the 
fall until the beginning of physiological activity in the spring, de- 
ciduous plants may be moved at any time that the ground is in 
proper condition and the temperature favourable. As a matter of 
practice, in the northern states this work is suspended entirely during a 
normal winter, for about four months, except where large plants are 
moved with a frozen ball of earth about their roots, because frozen 
ground and snow make the operation of transplanting smaller plants 
entirely impracticable. This period, longest in Maine and in the 
section surrounding Minneapolis, lessens as one goes farther south, until 
in Virginia and Georgia a continuous planting season extends without 
interruption through the dormant period. 

It was early learned that the whole of North America could be 
conveniently divided into seven transcontinental belts or life-zones, 
based upon the length of the growing season, which has been defined 



lo THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

as the period between the date in the spring when the normal mean 
daily temperature rises to 43 degrees Fahr., or above, and the date in 
the autumn when it falls to below that figure. (The reader should con- 
sult Bulletin No. 10 of the U. S. Department of Agriculture, Division of 
Biological Survey, entitled "Life Zones and Crop Zones." Part III 
of that Bulletin is especially interesting). These life-zones are, as 
noted above, adapted to plants requiring growing seasons of similar 
length and temperature range. Thus, if soil conditions, exposure, and 
amount of annual rainfall are alike in two distant portions of a zone 
plants which succeed in one portion may be expected to succeed in the 
other portion. They may in any event be tried out with considerable 
confidence when all the conditions are known to be the same, as 
described above. 

It now seems evident, from recently gathered data, that these 
zones correspond very closely to belts of country which have similar 
planting seasons for dormant woody plants, at least throughout the 
humid regions east of the looth pn-calle l of latitude . By consulting the 
accompanying Plate II, which has been adapted from the one in 
the above-mentioned Bulletin, and also the chart (Plate III), which 
shows the reported length of planting seasons, it will be seen that the 
stations reporting fall into groups which lie in respective life-zones as 
shown on the map. 

Thus stations 2, 3, 4, and 6, all of which lie in the so-called Transi- 
tion Zone, including most of New England, New York State, Penn- 
sylvania, northeastern Ohio, the Alleghanies from Pennsylvania to 
Georgia, southeastern Ontario, Michigan, Wisconsin, southern Minne- 
sota, North Dakota, and northern South Dakota, all report a short 
fall and spring planting season, divided by a long winter season, 
during which ordinary planting work is impracticable. Stations 
7, 8, and 10 lie in the northern limits of the upper Austral Zone where 
they are influenced by the Great Lakes. Stations 13, 14, 15, and 18 lie 
outside of the Great Lakes influence in the same zone, which includes a 
great territory stretching from the Coastal Plain westward to the 
Great Plains, and from the Transition Zone on the north to central 
Georgia and northern Texas on the south, except for an arm of the 
Lower Austral which extends northward along the Mississippi River to 
Cairo, 111. The first three stations, 7, 8, and 10, show the influence of 
the Great Lakes in that their spring planting season is delayed, while 
stations 13, 14, and 15 show a markedly later date for stopping trans- 



PLANTING AND SEEDING SEASONS ii 

planting in winter and an earlier closing date in the spring, due to the 
greater length of the growing season in this zone. Station i8 has such 
short winter interruptions that it practically offers a continuous work- 
ing period from fall to spring. Stations 17 and 20 lie in the Lower 
Austral Zone, which includes the Atlantic Coastal Plain from the 
Piedmont Region to the ocean and all the southern states south of the 
Upper Austral Zone. The Sacramento-Fresno Valley in California 
also is included in this zone. These stations, together with station 13, 
which is probably influenced by the Japanese Current, and station 15, 
which lies in the Gulf strip of the Lower Austral, all report a continuous 
planting season of about the same length, which is uninterrupted by 
any cold weather. Station 17 reports a long fall season with a short 
interruption and a short spring season, while station 16, which lies 
just north of the Tropical Zone, reports a short, uninterrupted season 
which closes early. 

In the extreme northernmost area, except that of Camden, Maine, 
the fall planting season does not open early enough, nor does the spring 
season extend long enough to offset the long winter period of frozen 
ground, which may extend to five months in the Northern Zone. 
Thus the total number of working planting days in the Northern Zone 
may be only 70 or 80 in an average year of not unusual severity of 
winter, while in the great central portion of the country each of the 
two seasons may be as much as 50 days long, giving a combined plant- 
ing season of about 100 working days. In the Southern Zone, where 
there is no interruption during the winter, the season may be from 115 
to 1 50 or even 160 days long, except that the beginning of growth in the 
spring curtails the season at that end when the Tropical Zone is ap- 
proached. It should be noted that the farther south one goes the more 
abruptly the spring growing season opens and the harder it becomes to 
prolong the planting season by any of the expedients mentioned above. 
The growing seasons of the southern sections of the United States open 
rapidly and there is greater danger in the operation of transplanting 
after leaf growth has started than in the cooler northerly sections of the 
country. It is also inadvisable to import cold storage plants into 
such southerly sections much after the time when local stock is in 
full leaf. 

It is probable that as time goes on much more detailed and complete 
data will be published regarding safe planting seasons for the different 
life-zones of the country, thus enabling planters to eliminate nearly all 



12 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

of the guesswork which now exists, when one is called upon to execute 
work in an unfamiHar territory. 

Evergreen Plants (Coniferous and Broad-leaved). The 
planting seasons for evergreens follow somewhat closely those for 
deciduous plants. It is probable that as our knowledge of broad- 
leaved evergreens increases, their planting season can be shown to do 
this also. There are now about fifty known species of broad-leaved 
evergreens which are hardy in our northern climate if handled properly. 
It is important to know what are the requirements surrounding suc- 
cessful transplanting of evergreens. Probably the most important 
seasonal requirement for transplanting of evergreens is that the soil 
moisture shall be plentiful just prior to the time of transplanting in 
the location from which they are taken. In other words, in spite of 
all the old notions to the contrary, fall planting of evergreens should 
not start till the fall rains have adequately moistened the soil. Fall 
planting of evergreens can be successfully done as late as any other 
planting, provided the ground is moist when it freezes. It is better to 
wait for the fall rains than to plant too early and subject the plants to 
a hot, dry spell immediately afterward. In the spring, while it is 
possible to delay the planting of evergreens past the safe date for 
deciduous stock, due to the fact that they are practically always 
moved with a ball of earth, yet the best season is the earliest possible 
one. In both spring and fall planting, early planting has the advan- 
tage of allowing the plant to start root growth before the advent of the 
very hot weather of summer and the drying winds of winter, which sap 
the moisture content of the plant from the pores of the persistent leaves. 
Such sorts as biota, thuja, and tax-us, which seem to establish themselves 
readily, can probably be successfully planted later in the season than 
others like picea, abies, tsuga, pinus — except nigra {austriaca), montana 
(Mughus), and Strobus — and chameecyparis. Evergreens of the first 
type will be subjected to much loss if not transplanted in a fully dor- 
mant condition immediately prior to the beginning of growth in the 
spring or if transplanted at a time in the fall when root growth sufficient 
to fix the plant in its new soil surroundings cannot be developed be- 
cause of the lateness of the season. 

Perennials. Planting seasons for herbaceous perennials are 
divided into spring and autumn in the North. One of the first factors 



PLANTING AND SEEDING SEASONS 13 

when planting older plants is the blooming period of the species 
under consideration. As the blooming period is one of great activity 
above the ground, those plants which bloom late in the season, like 
Japanese windflowers and chrysanthemums, should be moved in the 
spring when they can make root growth more quickly and thus recover 
from the shock. On the other hand, those plants which bloom and 
mature early are practically dormant in late summer and early autumn. 
Thus, irises and peonies can be moved safely about September ist, 
and will recover quickly and make new roots before cold weather sets 
in, whereas they are very active in the spring and often do not recover 
from the shock of being moved at that time unless the work is done 
very early. These are probably the first sorts fit to move in the 
autumn season, and other sorts follow along as they mature. The 
planting season for perennials would open earlier in the spring on a 
light soil than on a heavy one, both because the ground mellows 
earlier and because a heavy soil warms up more slowly. The texture 
of the soil IS a factor afi^ecting the planting season of perennials more 
than it does the other larger-rooted plants, and it is better to delay 
spring planting until the soil is in good condition to handle and is 
warm. Thus, the spring perennial season is likely to start later and 
last longer than that for woody deciduous plants, and also start earlier 
and stop earlier in the autumn. Pot-grown plants and seedlings can be 
transplanted at odd seasons whenever the weather is right, but it is 
generally best to wait till spring for all young herbaceous plants. 
Thus they are given the whole growing season in which to get es- 
tablished. Care should be taken not to bring tender plants out too 
early, before they have been hardened off, or too late, when the torrid 
summer days will wilt them down before they take root. 

Lawns. The spring seeding season for lawn grass starts in the 
Lower Austral Zone in February, about the middle of the month, and 
continues to May ist, but may be shut off by the advent of hot weather 
as early as March ist. As one goes farther north, the season does not 
lengthen very much, but merely opens later, extending from about 
April 15th to June ist. Thus, this seeding season, to a great extent, 
overlaps the planting season and cannot be protracted past the closing 
date for planting without great risk of the bad effect of hot weather on 
the young grass. The autumn season starts in the North as early as 
August 1st, and closes not later than October ist, but generally by the 



14' THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

15th or 20th of September, thus not overlapping the autumn planting 
season to any extent. As one goes southward, the season again merely 
shifts along, so that, in the Upper Austral Zone, it opens about Sep- 
tember 15th and closes about November ist, while in the Lower 
Austral it is pushed along to October 15th. Here the practice of 
seeding stops, except for the use of English rye as a green winter 
carpet, and is superseded by the practice of "sprigging" or planting 
pieces of Bermuda and St. Augustine grass. This grass planting is 
commonly done in southern Florida in June, while farther north, and 
especially in Alabama, it is done through the winter months so as to 
take advantage of the then abundant rains (See Page 59). 

Grass seed sown too early in the autumn and not artificially watered 
will generally lie dormant until the fall rains start germination, and, 
likewise, seed sown too late in the autumn or too early in the spring will 
lie dormant until the ground warms up sufficiently to start sprouting. 
The grass seeding season is from the time the ground gets warm 
enough in the spring until it gets too cold in the autumn to start the 
germination process, but this season is as a matter of practice divided 
into two parts by the period in the summer when the ground is too dry 
to start germination and the weather is so hot as to require constant 
artificial watering, both to start germination of the seed and to keep 
the young plants alive. It is also generally considered wiser not to 
seed so late in the autumn, in the North, that the young grass plants 
will not be well established before freezing weather. These are the 
factors which influence the establishment of the lawn seeding season 
dates diagrammatically shown on the chart (Plate HI). Making lawns 
in the South is a process of seeding when adaptable mixtures of north- 
ern lawn seed are used, and a process of planting roots when the native 
Bermuda and St. Augustine grasses are used. Northern grass is 
seeded in the period from September to January. Italian r}'e is seeded 
from October to January, and native grass roots are planted as shown 
on the chart in stations 15 and 16. 




COMP11.EU BT AJUaYLOR, 1 



Plate III. A chart to aid in determining the most favourable period for 
transplanting, and for seeding of lawns in various sections of the United States. 
Note the long winter periods of the Northern Zones, and the continuous plant- 
ing seasons of the Southern Zones. It is of great importance to be able to plan 
ahead and to order plants for delivery at the proper time for any section of the 
country. These are average seasons resulting from observations of normal 
seasons during a period of years. For supplementary information refer to 
Plate No. II on page No. 6- 



PLANTING AND SEEDING SEASONS 



IS 



M C 


'- 


c^ 


c 






S^ 


i-l 


°-~J 


H 




p 


H " 


c 






O.r. 
















bn " 


c 


c — 


F 






c a- 




(U u 


'^ 


<u >, 












13 tu 

c c 


O 


M o 




H-J= 


« 


C a, 








^^ 


1) 



« s?5 






o 



P & 



o u 



rt <u gi— < 



is 


fctt 






,o 


-T3 


C 












11 


C 


C3h 


J= 








H 


2 


G. 


*-< 




c 


_^ 


-n 




^ 


n 


n 



VO ro t~^VO OOO 00 O OOO 



oooooooo 



2:;zi2i2;z;Z2;z;QQQQ CiQaa<uiA^<- 



< t: 

o! Z 



lo O >-^ M 



u O u^^ o o.O.O 



Oc^OOOOOOOOOO 0020Z200Z2 



Thvo -*MD O O N 00 O t<^ ■ 



C^ LC UO M 



>,>,>,>,>. 






a! z 



J= j:-C 11 j= 



D. a. Q. D. a D. D. " a. a. " " »3J3J2~ J55Q. 



0; S 1> 
IgJ 



5 



2 c 5;^ 



c^ 2 

C 1- M 






^|l. 



c « 
'rt.E 



rH 



> -2 

O rt D 



2 K'2 S^»^ 



3 rt 3 ^ -r v-* (J TO u ^— 



oo 






— nj t: *" O 4J 



i6 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



E & S g 
o te C o 

^ 3 P 



OJ 



-^M 



J3 c S ^ 

M '« O e 
c «-'' S 

S « " 3 

1) S o 3 

— o f^ «^ 
U2 60^ ° 
-o-E u u 

- c-s e 

E g ^ g 
!; « o _ 



M« 



M I 



'^ O 



L> rt u j; 



-O « n c 
n3 iJ 4j oj 

•- C C 3 

•i i"^ 

<u w „ "v 

u w > u 

•£^ J 3 

e 5 1^ ?^ 

0.2 " E 
•I c " S 



nl u f'* 
^ C 03 



O^ t^\D t>. 0\ O^ t-i r^\D f^ r*^ (^ VO f*^ O^^ t^ » 



2s 

> o 



D. D, D, a.) 












3 3 3 3 3 3 



<<<<<<<<<<<!—, c/2<<c/oc/2iyjOZOO 



I^VO r^OO O t*^ f^ 



C n n c n cs C 

1— ^2>— i5 2i— 




< 5 









o *->(■ 

S " s 

C C = D. 



; j3 j: J3^ 






' o _- 3 — 



;^^ S-2 



a, 
15 ■- 



SZ-o «S S:^ =-a' 






: >, - 



3rj M Ufa, -75 
y ^ C3 - CT." 



e EfcS i t: S S.E 

On3;5'5oo™ 

ZOmSkcqho- 



*j -M tj o > _ 

3 2 3-c £ c c 



i:E|Jii-i 

- - ^ u il ^ -C 



hjUc 



zc:5J!>ai:2Jo.2a: 



PLANTING AND SEEDING SEASONS 



17 



:H.i 



1° ='- 



« U. 4J ^ 



txi- 



a; 



c S 



0-5 -og 
2 n !> ii 
S g--i^ 

D C M o 

-n 2 oj *" 

M O g M 

-s^ g ^ 

:= o ui-ti 

H c <L il o 
< •- >.2 " 

t: ■« c *- s 
fc = « 2 
2 "=-= 2 

1-4 .S ,, -g c 

Oh ^c 3^ 
" a; M 0) 

W ,C £I)-^ ^ 
W *^ <u -w S 

(^ .S t 3 e 
O ^^ E'B 
1=^ i! o— « 

^ ^" . — w ^ 

w .i.lj I 

3) ra' -M o 

-D C o > 

M O) _ <U 

S ♦^ 2 n< 

ji « 5 ^ 

>:§! 

4). 2 .t3 

- c_S o 

c S^ r oj 
o £ " 3 

ca IU---S 

M^ E'8 
•S . !: « 
" M 5.n 

« c-^S 
"E.— " 3 

3^ 2 






0c^2002220ZZCl Q22QQ<§<<fe 



a: z 



>-i -.00 ■-< 



i^ W W . t-t . . . •> K. 

Cl.D,0-*^CI.*-**-'*-'?C!C 

c/jooc/jOc/^OOOZZ 



o a 



f^ -^ u-i c*^ to ^ 10 ' 



■ CO O w O 000 t^ 

■ 10 ro t^ ■* ■<)■ O^^O 



O a^ 1> U 4J U U 



^S<^<' 



J2 0.0.0.0.0.0.0.0.0. D. JS 



"5'S'o °° " 
^ '-' ^ /iC ^ 



2U 



I & ^-^ 

CO 

rfce c c 

- 3;;3 " 



n 
SO .0 

S -o ^ _'0 

O O PJ o — 



■? C CD- 

>> - 3_ 
C So te S S 

C « C-T3^0 

s^ fe g tP-' 

4-* *_J ra J^ iJ 



c/2iy:ai Z(J> 



• S rt .> „'£b 

__ U. C M Q OJ 

2-2. ""c c II 



C/3 > O Oh c/: lAE 



CHAPTER III 
PRUNING 

Reasons for Pruning. The reasons for pruning are: 

(1) To secure a desired form or height of the plant; 

(2) To remove injured, diseased, or dead branches; 

(3) To renovate or rejuvenate old plants; 

(4) To maintain a balance between root growth and top growth (as shown in the 

operations of transplanting); 

(5) To encourage the production of an abundance of flowers; 

(6) To encourage the production of a few large flowers; 

(7) To improve or modify the natural form of the plant for some specific reason 

such as in topiary work and hedge work. 

Pruning, however, is only a phase in the care of plants and must 
be accompanied by constant good cultivation, feeding, and management 
of plants. It is only through the process of intelligent pruning that 
shrubs especially can be maintained in a definite and natural condi- 
tion of growth and also kept at a correct height to avoid in many 
instances the out-growing or over-powering of the design for which 
they were selected to become a part. Many incorrect ideas have be- 
come prevalent concerning the process of pruning, and the application 
of these incorrect methods often causes a slowing up or incorrect 
development not only in the growing habits of the shrubs but in the 
quality and the quantity of the flowers produced. 

Precautions to Observe. Pruning should be done only with a 
definite ideal and after arranging an intelligent program. No set 
rules can be offered. Climatic conditions may cause rules correct in 
one locality to prove valueless in another, and plants of the same 
species often vary in their habit of growth at different ages, and 
must be pruned accordingly. Pruning should be entrusted only to 
a careful workman. It is too common practice in pruning to have 
shrubs and trees with all the tips lightly snipped off with regularity; 
or to have trees with the main and lateral branches ruthlessly lopped 

18 



PRUNING 19 

off. The natural habit of the plant should be known and this form 
preserved when removing any wood. This fact should always be kept 
in mind except in the case of shrubs or trees which are to be trained in 
artificial shapes. 

Results From Pruning. Pruning always arrests but does not 
permanently change the natural habits and growth of a plant. It 
often causes the plant to assume temporarily another form than it 
would naturally assume. Pruned plants constantly struggle to return 
to their natural habit, and when pruning has been undertaken for a 
specific purpose it should be continued throughout the life of the 
plant so long as that purpose is desirable. 

Root pruning tends to reduce wood production and hence to in- 
crease fruit and flower production. Top pruning favours wood pro- 
duction and thus more top is produced by the seemingly contrary 
process of cutting it off. In the case of transplanted stock tops are 
cut back to compensate for the roots that are lost in moving. Re- 
moval of excess top growth insures to the remaining parts of the plant 
more nourishment, with subsequent better development, and it also 
decreases the area of leaf surface and the consequent evaporation of 
stored-up moisture before the roots begin functioning in the new loca- 
tion. 

Tools and Wound Dressings. Pruning shears, pruning knives, and 
hand saws are the best tools to use. Pole saws and hooks should be 
avoided as they leave ragged wounds, and pole pruners should be used 
only for small twigs. Never use double edge saws as they are more 
apt, in the hands of a careless workman, to injure the tree. A ladder 
will be required for the larger trees and a block and ropes for removing 
limbs that are near wires or that might injure property. 

For dressing wounds gas tar and liquid asphaltum have proven the 
most satisfactory. They hinder healing the least of the common 
dressings and are the most durable, adhesive, and antiseptic. Coal 
tar and pine tar seem to be injurious and white lead apparently has no 
injurious or antiseptic effect. Dressings give only physical protection 
and cannot hasten healing, which takes place through the activity of 
the plant itself. 

Trees — Top Pruning. Street trees should be pruned so that 



20 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

branches will not interfere with pedestrians or vehicles. The roots of 
street trees are more confined than those of other trees and they re- 
quire top pruning to balance with the root system. Pruning should 
aim to preserve the natural habit of the trees; but they should also 
be kept symmetrical in form. If the tops become too thick and ex- 
clude too much light they should be thinned out. Main laterals, 
however, must not be disturbed, but rather the shoots that spring 
from these main laterals should be removed. 

Specimen trees on lawns require little pruning except to prevent 
bad crotches (which if left might cause splitting), to shorten branches 
which may affect the symmetry of the tree, to remove dead wood, and 
sometimes to remove (as in the case of maples and pin oaks) some of the 
finer interior branches in order to give more "character" to the tree. 

It is generally best to do the heavy cutting in winter, while the trees 
are dormant. Pruning in early spring or summer may cause the 
tree to "bleed," with a consequent check to the root system from the 
loss of food. This is especially true of maples. One advantage, how- 
ever, of spring or summer trimming is that the tree will recover more 
quickly and start to heal the wound, which would be impossible during 
the winter season. If trees are pruned in winter the "shaping up " and 
removal of small pieces of dead wood should be done after the leaves 
appear at which time symmetry can be better judged and all dead 
branches can be more easily discovered. To assure the least possible 
injury from exposure to climatic conditions winter pruning, if neces- 
sary, should be delayed until the danger from the more severe winter 
conditions is past. 

Broken and diseased limbs must always be removed, and secondary 
growth and suckers cut, to open the centre of the tree to the sun and 
air. When limbs are pruned they should be cut back to a bud that will 
grow outward. 

When larger branches are entirely removed, the cut should 
be made at the base of the branch and parallel to the tree trunk. 
No stump at all should be left, and care should first be taken to under- 
cut amply on all heavy limbs so that when the cut on the upper side is 
completed the branch will not split the bark from the trunk. All 
other cuts, such as removing portions of branches, should be made 
perpendicular to the axis of the branch which is being shortened. The 
cut should always be clean, with no ragged edges left (See Plate V). 

Never cut back the leader on trees that are e.xcurrent, such as oaks. 




Plate IV. The hedge which may look unkept and ragged if not pruned, 
will in the hands of the skilled gardener assume almost any degree of refined 
outline. These photographs show one of our most desirable hedge plants, 
the Japanese privet {Ligustrum ibota). (See Chapter III) 



PRUNING 21 

birches, spruces, and sugar maples. If the leader is killed it is often 
possible to train the best lateral available as a substitute. This may 
be done by binding the lateral to a pole and tying with raffia. 

If the tree is weakened or is dying, severe pruning will often aid in 
offsetting the trouble and may help the tree to recover its vigour. 
Many trees and shrubs, as poplars, soft maples, the tree of heaven, 
box elders, hydrangeas, and sumacs will stand very heavy pruning and 
recover rapidly. Oaks, elms, and flowering dogwoods should be pruned 
only as corrective measures and not to check growth. 

During the progress of construction work in the neighbourhood of 
fine trees or shrubs some protection should be afforded, either by the 
erection of a stout fence or a stout wooden framework. 

Root Pruning. Root pruning serves to check the growth of a tree 
and to encourage lateral or secondary growth of the roots. When 
a plant has a slow or a weak-growing top grafted upon a vigor- 
ous root stock, root pruning is often used advantageously to stop 
too great a growth of the stock. Root pruning should be done before 
the weather becomes too cold in the fall. If this pruning is delayed till 
very late no start in heahng the cuts will be made before spring, and 
meanwhile decay will set m. The process of root pruning to assist in 
the successful transplanting of trees is effected by excavating a narrow 
trench around the tree encircling a ball of earth (Usually six to eight 
feet in diameter) (See Plate VI-C-i) which can be handled with a tree 
machine. In this way one-half to two-thirds of the large roots are 
severed. The trench is filled with loam, and during the remainder of 
the growing season a mass of new fibrous roots form, which readily 
come to the aid of the tree when transplanted to its new location 
(See Planting and Transplanting, Page 42). 

All trees should be top pruned when transplanted. This is done to 
offset the loss of root system by removing a portion of the top. A 
general rule is to remove four-fifths of the current year's growth and 
one-eighth of the older branches. Do not cut back main laterals or 
leaders so as to leave large stubs, for with such pruning the stubs will 
rot and spoil the tree. 

Trees with ample fibrous roots, such as maples and elms, are easier 
to move successfully than trees with few roots, or with tap roots, such 
as magnolias, tulips, gums, and nut trees. It is therefore necessary to 
prune the tops more heavily on transplanted stock with sparse root 



22 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

systems. On all transplanted stock the roots should be pruned to re- 
move diseased, dead, or bruised portions. In older plants tap roots 
may be shortened if the cutting is done judiciously. Many trees, 
especially older trees, are moved more safely in the winter if they are 
root pruned not later than the last of the previous July. In trans- 
planting fine old specimens of beech and boxwood it is sometimes 
necessary, and always advisable, to root prune the trees for two 
seasons prior to the time of transplanting, in order to insure the greatest 
possible success. 

Hedges. Most hedge plants, such as the Japanese barberry 
and the privet, if allowed to grow as specimen plants unrestrained 
by severe pruning, will produce a considerable quantity of flowers 
and also of fruit. This is especially true of the Japanese barberry, 
which has interesting fruit. If these plants are grown in hedges, 
which are subject to frequent and severe trimming at least three or 
four times during the growing season, then all of the flowers are surely 
removed and if the flowers are not removed, then at the time of the 
next pruning the fruit is removed, therefore very few of the hedges of 
this character ever produce any fruit. The only way in which to 
have a hedge such as a Japanese barberry hedge, with a quantity of 
fruit upon it, is to prune the hedge during the very late winter months 
or early spring months and not to prune it again until after the fruiting 
season is over. 

Hedges which are allowed to grow naturally require but little prun- 
ing, except the removal of dead and diseased wood and the checking of 
any portion that becomes too rampant or destroys symmetry. It 
often becomes desirable in the development of hedge plants to keep 
the growth within certain well-defined limits of height, after the plants 
have become a few years old. This requires judicious pruning, con- 
sisting of the removal of many of the older branches each year, but 
never a heavy shearing which cuts the entire top of the plant, regard- 
less of the size or age of the branches, to a fixed height. 

Hedges which are trimmed formally should be kept uniform in 
height and thickness. One late winter and two or three summer prun- 
ings during the growing season are better than one heavy pruning 
yearly. Hedges will do best if kept in a flattened ovoid shape with the 
widest part at the base (Plate V). In this way all the leaf surface 
will receive a more nearly equal portion of light, and leaves will grow 



PRUNING 23 

down to the ground. It is preferable to have the top rounded rather 
than flat. Remember that a portion of the current year's growth 
must be left on the plants when pruning. 

If privet hedges are winter-killed partially or wholly, or girdled by 
animals, they should be cut back to four or six inches above the ground. 
A hedge, when newly planted, should be cut back severely, often to 
within twelve inches of the ground. This is necessary in order to secure 
thick growth at the base. 

Topiary Effects. The operation of pruning to produce topiary 
effects is one that requires much more careful attention and more 
frequent pruning than almost any other type of pruning work, with 
the exception of possibly some hedges such as privet hedges, where 
it is necessary to maintain a constant, even effect. The yew and box- 
wood which are used for the most permanent effects in topiary work 
can be pruned to best advantage during the latter part of June and the 
early part of July, at which time all the new growth should be cut back 
as far as the older growth, which consists of darker green leaves. This 
allows opportunity for new shoots to develop within the old growth 
and thicken the mass. Many plants used for such topiary effects as 
ovals, spheres, pyramids, cones, spirals, etc., can be given a thorough 
trimming when the trees are young. The subsequent growth (if the 
loose-growing tips are kept cut back) will continue to increase the 
dimensions of these designs in an interesting way. The key to 
successful topiary effects is the accurate shape to which the tree is 
trimmed when the first pruning work on the specimen is undertaken. 

Shrubs. Ornamental flowering shrubs may be pruned at any 
season of the year if no consideration is given to the question of 
flower production. Wounds made by pruning will heal, however, 
better during the growing season. Late summer pruning will some- 
times encourage a new and vigorous growth which does not thoroughly 
ripen during the late summer and fall months, and is consequently 
exposed to the danger of winter-killing. Late summer pruning should 
accordingly not be practised especially on semi-hardy plants. During 
wet seasons, and when plants are over-supplied with food, summer 
pruning may be resorted to, in order to restrain succulent and weak 
growth. 

Many shrubs possess a greater or less value for their flowering habits. 



The following are a series of memorandums explanatory of the 
drawings shown on Plate No. V, illustrating various methods of 
pruning trees and shrubs. 

A 

A large, overgrown, and "leggy" shrub with some new long shoots growing from 
the base of the plant. In such overgrown plants as these all of the wood which 
produces flowers is m the top branches at the ends of the old wood and the shrub 
presents a very bare effect at its base. 
A-1 , 

The same shrub as shown under "A", but pruned for the purpose of allowing 
new shoots to develop from the base of the shrub and to permit a new top at a 
normal height, thus renovating the entire shrub during a period of two or three 
years. 

A-2 

The same shrub as in "A", showing its development after proper pruning. This 
produces new flowering wood and a more natural and even development of the 
entire shrub, which insures a better bloom and a more satisfactory eff"ect. 

A-3 

The same shrub as under "A", but incorrectly pruned or "sheared" in accordance 
with the method of unintelligently removing all wood, new and old, at a uniform 
height, irrespective of flowering habits or other habits of growth of the shrub. 

A-4 „ . 

The same shrub as under "A", showmg the development in its growth after in- 
correct pruning (A-3). Note that most of the new growth has developed on the 
old wood, producing a broom effect at the top and a "leggy" condition at the 
base of the shrub. Such plants cannot grow normally or produce, normal flower 
efl^ects. 

B-l 

This illustration shows the correct method of pruning hybrid tea roses in order 
to produce large individual blooms. 1 he portion in light lines shows the branches 
to be removed. 

B-2 

This illustration shows the hybrid tea rose pruned to produce an abundance of 
flowers but not necessarily large individual blooms. The portion in light lines 
shows the branches to be removed. 

C-l .... 

This illustration shows the correct series of cuts to be made in removing large 
branches at a point close to the trunk of the trees (i is the first cut to "be made, 
or the under cut. 2 is the second cut to be made, or the upper cut. 3 is the 
final cut to be made, or the close cut). Note also the healing over of a correctly 
made cut. 

C-2 ..... 

This illustration shows the incorrect method of making a cut m one operation, 
frequently causing the splitting down of the branch. Note also the attempt to 
heal an incorrect cut, which was not made sufficiently close to the trunk. The 
bark on such cuts dies back to the trunk and the new healing bark cannot grow 
over the wound. 
D-l 

Shows correct and incorrect methods of shearing or pruning hedges. 

D-l to IV3 . I-, 1 

Shows the correct method known as the ovoid cross section (D-i); the truncated 
cross section (D-2); and the rectangular cross section (D-3). As a result of each 
of these methods of pruning the hedge produces a solid foliage efl^ect at its base. 

D-4 and D-S 

These illustrate incorrect methods of pruning known as the inverted pyramidal 
cross section and the inverted cone cross section, both of which methods resulting 
in a wide top and a narrow base in the cross section of the hedge produce a bare 
effect at the base and give little foliage. 

24 




-Bl- -B2- 



-Ci- -C2- 




-Dl- -DE- 



FLATE V. The correct pruning of trees and shrubs is a great factor in the 
successful maintenance of landscape plantings. These diagrammatic drawings, 
together with the explanations on the opposite page, illustrate correct and in- 
correct methods of pruning. 



PRUNING 25 

There are two types of shrubs (Chapter XLII-A, Page 296), one of which 
is the spring or early-flowering shrubs, such as Van Houtte's spirea, 
weigela, snowball, and most golden-bells, producing flowers on wood 
formed during the previous year. The other type consists of plants 
which produce flowers during the late summer and fall on the growth 
of the current year. This type includes the rose of Sharon, the 
hydrangea, and the common elder. The general rule for the pruning 
of flowermg trees and shrubs, m order to encourage the development of 
more flowers, is to prune soon after flowering. Unless one has a defi- 
nite knowledge of shrubs, this rule should be applied literally. The 
other rule is that spring-flowering shrubs should be pruned in the early 
summer immediately after they are through flowering, and the summer- 
flowering shrubs can be pruned to the best advantage in the late 
winter and early spring before growth has commenced, to avoid the 
possibilities of winter-killing. Lilacs also should be pruned during 
the early part of the summer and shortly after the blooming period is 
complete and in every instance before the seed pods have formed. 

Spring-blooming plants should be pruned within a week after the 
blossoms fall to encourage a summer growth of budded wood which 
will be well ripened by winter. 

Summer-blooming plants may be pruned either in the late summer 
or just before spring growth begins, to force a new spring growth 
upon which summer flowers appear. Late summer pruning is never 
advisable. Some shrubs, such as lilacs, flowering dogwoods^, and 
rhododendrons should not be pruned except to remove dead and 
diseased branches, or branches that interfere with the development 
of the plants. Deciduous shrubs of which the wood has become in- 
curably afi"ected with scale may, however, be revivified by being 
cut down to the gVound. In the case of plants that form ornamental 
fruit the branches should not be cut back far, nor the pruning done 
after the fruit buds have formed. 

Any dead or dying wood should be removed as soon as noticed. 
In the case of summer-blooming shrubs pruning is best done in the 
early spring after the leaves appear, in order to remove winter-killed 
tips. 

Old wood should be cut out to prevent shrubs from getting "leggy, 
i. e., having all top with no foliage around the base. In removing old 
wood, cut to the base of the plant; otherwise sprouts will shoot up from 
stumps and fail as the latter decay. New growth should always be 



26 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

encouraged from the roots. Cutting back all branches, or giving 
shrubs an even shearing should be avoided, as strong shoots will 
develop and cause a too succulent and unbalanced top growth (See 
Plate V). With transplanted stock a general rule is to remove 
about one-fo'urth of the wood, to offset the loss of roots. Root pruning 
for shrubs is similar to 'that of trees (See Chapter on "Planting and 
Transplanting"). 

Old shrubs and overgrown material should be thinned out by re- 
moving some branches to the base of the plant. This will allow sun 
and air to reach the base of the plant and encourage growth at the 
bottom. The dogwoods, globe flowers, and similar shrubs lose the 
bright colour of their wood as they age. The old wood should be 
removed to encourage new growth. 

Evergreens. Evergreens need but little pruning. The pruning 
of evergreens is done to secure formal shapes, to thicken growth, 
or to preserve symmetry. Tips of branches should be sheared in 
the spring just before they start growing. Begin pruning a year 
after planting and continue each succeeding year. Evergreens dry 
out more rapidly than deciduous growth and as they make much 
growth in the early spring, wounds from spring cutting heal rapidly. 
April is a good month for this work in the northern states. Pinch- 
ing back of buds at any time in order to thicken the growth is all 
the pruning that most evergreens require. Shearing for formal 
shapes must'be done carefully and a portion of the past season's growth 
allowed to re;nain on the plants. Many evergreens such as the plume- 
shaped cypress^, Lawson's cypress, and the arborvitae will respond to 
severe pruning operations. These plants grow vigorously under ideal 
conditions and during the growing season it is not infrequent that they 
require pruning two or three times. Rarely are evergreens pruned 
for the purpose of removing branches which are crowding, and only 
under very abnormal conditions is it necessary to prune evergreens 
in order to remove dead or diseased branches. 

Rhododendrons. The pruning of rhododendrons, as a rule, is 
unsatisfactor}', particularly if the wood is old. If the plant is very 
thrifty, and in a damp, sheltered position, fair success may be had. 
Not more than one-half of a plant should be pruned in any one year 
and the other part in the succeeding year. It should be done early 



PRUNING Vj 

in the spring and the bark of the stumps well moistened at least twice 
daily to assist the development and breaking through of the dormant 
leaf buds. Cuts should be made just above a whorl of leaves because 
adventitious buds will appear there more promptly than elsewhere. 
If the plants are not thrifty it might be advisable to cut half of the 
stalks to the ground, using care not to decrease, more than is necessary, 
the beauty of the plants. New shoots will be developed from the 
ground, and when these reach a satisfactory height, repeat the process 
with the remaining stalks. The root system will also be benefited 
by such treatment. 

Pruning is seldom resorted to with rhododendrons in order to pro- 
duce increased size and quantity of flowers. As an added precaution 
for the successful development of rhododendrons all the seed pods 
should be removed from the finer and less vigorous growing plants 
immediately after the flowering period is complete and before any 
of the plant energy has been expended in the development and ripen- 
ing of the seed pods, thus diverting this energy into the production of 
new flower buds instead of into the production of useless seed pods. 

Vines. Vines are pruned only to remove dead wood and strag- 
gling growth. Prune vines after blooming, except vines with orna- 
mental fruit; the latter should be cut back severely in the spring, 
because they fruit on the new wood. 

Roses. Prune hybrid perpetual and most other hardy roses in 
April when sap begins to flow and buds start to swell. At this time 
dead wood may be most easdy distinguished and mulch should not 
be disturbed earlier. Memorial roses and rambler roses should be 
pruned just after the flowering season to produce wood for the next 
year's bloom. 

Other things being equal, the pruning determines the quantity and 
size of flowers. Severe pruning will produce the largest and best 
flowers; less severe pruning is productive of a large crop of average 
flowers; medium pruning produces a large crop of smaller blooms 
(Plate V, Page 24). 

For severe pruning, thin out to the base all but three to five shoots, 
with two to three buds on each shoot. Less severe pruning requires 
the same number of shoots to be cut back to from five to ten buds. 
For medium pruning, leave four to seven shoots and cut each back to 



28 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

one-half of its height. Always cut the stem one-fourth to one-half 
inch immediately above a strong bud that points out from the centre of 
the plant. When a plant has been pruned the shoots should be 
left as nearly as possible equi-distant from each other and arranged 
around the plant, so that it presents a well-balanced appearance on all 
sides with an uncrowded centre. With some hybrid perpetuals and 
climbers, if considerable length of stem is cut with the flowers, the 
plants can be induced to make some autumn bloom. Seeds should 
never be permitted to ripen on rose bushes, as the effect of this is 
extremely weakening to the plant. 

When pruning hybrid perpetual roses remove branches that cross, 
and all weak wood also. Cut back strong canes to six buds, the top 
bud pointing outward. For a big outdoor display leave two-thirds 
of the length of four to seven canes. Sometimes it is feasible to cut 
away part of the tops in autumn so that the fibrous roots will not be 
loosened or broken by the force of winter winds swaying the plants. 

Hybrid teas and teas must be cut to the surface of the soil, if neces- 
sary, in order to cut to live wood. However, as much or more wood 
should be left as on hybrid perpetuals, if possible. Weak growers 
should be cut back farther than strong growers. 

Rugosas, bourbons, chinas, austrian briers, ramblers, and wich- 
uraianas need but little pruning. Thin out and cut back only a few 
inches of the stems. Remove wood to the base of the plant as it be- 
comes old. 

CHmbing and pillar roses need only one-third to one-fifth of the wood 
removed. All old wood should be removed about once in three years. 
In autumn any unusually long canes should be cut back slightly and 
tied up. 

When rose blooms are cut from the plant the finest and largest 
blooms follow if only one bud is left to the branch. 



CHAPTER IV 

PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING 

Reasons for Transplanting. Transplanting, in its general defini- 
tion, is the operation of taking a plant up from the soil and planting 
it again in a new location, where it is expected to continue normal 
growth. The term "plant" is applied to trees, shrubs, vines, peren- 
nials, and annuals. Correct transplanting impHes that a plant in its 
new position should be left in proper posture, and firmly imbedded in 
good soil. In addition to placing plants in new and permanent loca- 
tions to have them more effective, or where they may develop to better 
advantage, it is often necessary to move plants from masses in order to 
prevent crowding and to provide more space for the remaining plants to 
develop. This is true especially with nursery-grown stock, and in 
plantations also which are made dense at the outset in order to pro- 
duce an immediate effect. 

Spacing of Plants. One of the important factors in successful 
plantings is the correct spacing of plants at the time of transplanting. 
Every plant requires space in which to develop normally. The result 
of close planting is eventually an overcrowded condition and a lack of 
healthy, well-developed foliage, flowers, and fruit. The more vigorous 
specimens crowd out the weaker ones and unless a "thinning-out" 
process is adopted, the mass effect becomes quite uneven and ragged. 

The reason for most overcrowded plantings is the desire on the part 
of the designer to obtain an immediate effect. Too often our im- 
patience and unwillingness to wait until plants mature and. "fill 
out," develops many errors. Three years after transplanting is the 
normal period required for shrubs, two years for perennials, and eight 
to ten years for average nursery-grown trees to make the necessary 
growth to overcome the bare effect of the border or row of trees when 
planted in small sizes. 

The question often arises as to whether or not it is better to use 
average-sized nursery stock (three to four-year-old stock) or to use 

29 



30 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



large overgrown shrubs. Many people feel that an immediate effect is 
desirable and therefore the larger the shrubs that are used the more 
quickly the effect will be produced. The author has had considerable 
experience with both types of plantings. The nursery shrub will re- 
quire anywhere from two to four years under normal spacing before 
it will develop sufficiently to produce the desired effect in the mass 
planting. On the other hand, the large, overgrown shrub which will 
produce an immediate effect generally requires severe pruning and 
cutting back in order to produce any growth which will fill the plant 
at the bottom and the top. This renovating process requires from two 
to three years. Therefore at the end of this period the general effect 
of the plantation is about the same whether large, overgrown shrubs 
are used or whether the smaller nursery specimens are used. 

The correct method to adopt in general planting work is to allow 
sufficient space between plants for the normal development of each. 
Planting too close, although providing a more finished appearance 
during the first one or two seasons, is far more undesirable than liberal 
spacing. It is not practicable to lay down a well-defined rule for 
spacing plants. The planter can best be guided by the knowledge 
that he is seeking an immediate mass effect of foliage, requiring close 
spacing, or that he will wait during a proper period before expecting 
to see the plantation well developed. See list re "Spacing of Plants" 
which follows. 

SPACING OF PLANTS 

THE FOLLOWING IS A TABLE OF DISTANCES AS A GUIDE IN TRANSPLANTING 



Purpose 


Typical Plants 


Close 
Planting 


Normal 
Distance 


Alices — Trees 








Open 


Thorns 


2 ft. 


3 ft. 


Pleached 


European Cork-barked Maple 


I ft. 


ihh. 


Annuals 








Carpet Bedding 


Altemanthera 


3 in. 


6 in. 


Design Bedding 


Snapdragons 


6 in. 


12 in. 


Edgings 


Alyssum 


4 in. 


6 in. 


Broad-leaved Evergreens 










Great Laurel 


3 ft. 


Sft. 




Hybrid Rhododendrons 


2|ft. 


3|ft. 




Mountain Laurel 


2 ft. 


3 ft. 




Mountain Fetterbush 


iHt. 


2Ht. 




Japanese Azaleas 


I^t. 


2 ft. 



PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING 

SPACING OF PLANTS— Continued 



31 



Purpose 


Typical Plants 


Close 
Planting 


Bulbs and Tubers 








Hyacinths 


4 in. 




Tulips 


4 in. 




Narcissi 


4 in. 




Crocus 


2 in. 




Squills 


3 in- 




Chionodoxas 






Snowdrops 






Grape Hyacinths 






Anemones 


4 in. 




Bulbous Irises 






Lilies 


12 in. 




Gladioli 


2 in. 




Dahlias 


2 ft. 


Bush Fruits 








Currants 


4 ft. 




Gooseberries 


4 ft. 




Red Raspberries 


3 ft. 




Black Raspberries 


4 ft. 




Blackberries 


4 ft. 




Dewberries 


4 ft. 


Ground Cover 






Deciduous Vines 


Hall's Honeysuckle 


I ft. 


Evergreens 


Japanese Spurge 


6 in. 


Perennials 


Moss Pink 


9 in. 


Hedges 






Low Sheared 


Japanese Privet 




Double Row 






(staggered) 




10 in. 


Single Row 




8 in. 


High and Wide 


Beech 


lift. 


Herbaceous Perennials 






Edgings 


Carpathian Harebell 


4 in. 


Low 


Gold Tuft 


9 in. 


Medium 


Phloxes 


12 in. 


Spreading 


Peonies 


18 in. 


Tall 


Larkspurs 


12 in. 


Tall Slender 


Chimney Bellflower 


12 in. 


Kitchen Garden 








Strawberries 


iHt. 




Asparagus 


iHt. 


Roses 






Garden 


Bush Roses 


2 ft. 


Garden 


Hybrid Perpetual 


2 ft. 


Garden 


Hybrid Tea 


18 in. 


Garden 


Polyantha 


9 in. 


On embankments 


Dorothy Perkins 


2|ft. 


Qn fences 


Tausendschoen 


8 ft. 



Normal 
Distance 



6 in. 
6 in. 
6 in. 

3 in. 

4 in. 
2 in. 

2 in. 

3 in- 
6 in. 

4 in. 
18 in. 
4 in. 
3 ft. 

6 ft. 
6 ft. 
Sft. 
6 ft. 
6 ft. 
6 ft. 

2 ft. 

9 to 12 in. 



12 in. 

10 to 12 in. 

2 ft. 

6 in. 
12 in. 
IS in. 
2i to 3 ft. 
18 in. 
IS in. 

2 ft. 

3 ft. 
2Ht. 

2ift. 

2 "ft. 

12 in. 

3 to 4 ft. 
10 to I sft. 



32 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 
SPACING OF PLANTS— Continued 



Purpose 


Typical Plants 


Close 
Planting 


Normal 
Distance 


Shrubs in Masses 








Large 


Morrow's Honeysuckle 


3 ft. 


4 to 5 ft. 


Low 


Japanese Barberry 


2 ft. 


2ift- 


Medium 


Van Houtte's Bridal Wreath 


2hh 


3 to 4 ft. 


Street Trees 








Large 


Elms 


30 ft. 


50 ft. 


Medium 


Sugar Maple 


25 ft. 


40 ft. 


Small 


Pin Oak 


25 ft. 


3Sft. 


Trees 








Fruit trees 


Standard Apples 


30 ft. 


40 ft. 




Dwarf Apples 


8 ft. 


12 ft. 




Standard Pears 


i6ft. 


20 ft. 




Dwarf Pears 


8 ft. 


10 ft. 




Plums 


i6ft. 


20 ft. 




Peaches 


i6ft. 


20 ft. 




Apricots 


i6ft. 


20 ft. 




Sweet Cherries 


i6ft. 


24 ft. 




Sour Cherries 


i6ft. 


20 ft. 




Quinces 


10 ft. 


12 ft. 


Groves 


Oaks 


20 ft. 


25 to 35 ft. 


Lawn specimens 


Purple Beech 


45 ft. 


60 ft. 


Vine (fruit) 










Grapes 


8 ft. 


10 ft. 


Vines 








Climbers on walls 


Boston Ivy 


8 ft. 


12 ft. 


On embankments 


Hall's Honeysuckle 


2Ht. 


35 ft- 


Windbreaks (trees) 










Hornbeams 


5 ft. 


8 ft. 




Spruces 


8 ft. 


12 ft. 



Conditions for Transplanting. It is better to transplant stock 
on a dull, moist day, rather than on a bright, sunny day, because the 
planter needs to give less attention to the drying out and consequent 
injury to fibrous root growth. The most ideal weather for moving 
plants is a day when a cloudy condition exists and when there is ample 
moisture in the air. Avoid bright, sunny, dry days on which to 
do transplanting, unless plenty of water is used, or the plants are 
thoroughly dormant. Dry winds are equally as injurious as hot sun. 
The general rule is that no plant should be transplanted except with 
extreme care, and only when it is entirely dormant. Plants are 



PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING 33 

generally considered dormant when the flow of sap has ceased in the 
top, at which time the season's growth is completed, and when the 
wood has had an ample opportunity to ripen and harden. Deciduous 
plants are dormant when the leaves have fallen or turned brown. 
Transplanting before the wood is thoroughly ripened is one of the 
sources of winter-killing. It will be noted under group No. 40-A 
and 40-B (on Page 289) that there are certain types of stock which 
should be transplanted in the spring and others which should be 
transplanted in the fall to secure the best results. The explanation 
is contained in Chapter XL. Evergreens require difl^erent rules for 
time of moving and must therefore be considered separately (See 
Page 48). It is practicable to transplant small trees, many 
evergreens and many shrubs, together with perennials, before they 
have finished their growing season or after growth in the spring has well 
begun; but this should rarely if ever be attempted with large trees. 
In such out-of-season handhng of the stock extreme caution should be 
used to prevent drying out, and the plant should be moved, if possible, 
with the earth balled about the roots. 

Transplanting Nursery Stock. It is essential that the pur- 
chaser of nursery stock should request that such material be lifted and 
packed properly. Nursery stock in general must be dug carefully to 
preserve as much of the root growth as is practicable, and with roots 
cut as cleanly as possible. The stock should not be allowed to stand 
openly exposed to the injurious effects of wind and sun after lifting and 
before packing. For short shipments, of one or two days, stock can 
be packed equally well in excelsior, sphagnum-moss, or straw, but for 
longer shipments material should not be packed in excelsior, for it dries 
out too rapidly. 

On receipt of nursery stock which has been shipped in boxes or 
crates the stock (being deHvered by truck or by wagon) should be 
so loaded and so covered with canvas that there is a minimum of 
exposure to drying-out processes. Stock, when received on the 
grounds where it is to be planted, should be removed at once from 
boxes or crates, and if not planted immediately must be "heeled in" 
(Plate VI) or kept in some other way from drying out. 

Transplanting — Collected Stock. Collected stock needs more 
careful attention than nursery stock. Collected material usually 



The following is a descriptive memorandum to accompany Plate 
No. VI. 

A 

If plants are not to be planted immediately (within three or four days) after the 
time of arrival, they should be carefully unpacked and "heeled-in," until such 
time as they can be planted to advantage (See Page 36). 

B-l and B-2 

The average small tree as it is received from the nursery ought to be pruned be- 
fore the plant is put in its permanent location. This drawing shows a nursery 
tree (B-i) with two leaders, and the proper pruning of this tree (B-2) by removing 
one of the leaders and some of the small branches. 

C-l and C-2 

Large trees and trees which are difficult to transplant should be root pruned not 
later than July of the summer previous to the season when thej- are to be trans- 
planted. Usually the fibrous part of the existing root system (C-i) is entirely 
removed by the transplanting operation unless root pruning is done (C-l) and the 
trenches filled with well-rotted compost, thus encouraging the fibrous root system 
(C-2) close to the trunk of the tree and within the diameter of the ball of earth 
usually moved with the tree. 

D-l, D-2, D-3, and D-4 

Hybrid roses of various types are sometimes grown on their own roots without 
grafting (D-i). Such roses should be transplanted slightly deeper (D-2) than 
in their original position (D-i). D-j shows the same bush mounded with a 
depth of 6 to 8 inches of soil, for winter protection. In transplanting grafted 
roses the knot formation, indicated by the arrow, where the graft was made should 
be set about l inch or more below the surface of the soil (D-4). If any suckers 
develop from below the graft, the soil should be dug away and the suckers cut 
off close to the stem. 

E-1, E-2, and E-3 

Trees and shrubs growing at a normal depth (E-i) should be transplanted leaving 
the surface of the ground surrounding the stem at the same point or slightly below 
that point in the new location, and the basin for watering such plants should be 
made as shown in E-2. Plants should never be transplanted at an abnormal 
depth below the surface of the existing ground or permanently left with a mound 
of earth around the main stem as shown in E-3. 




-Ci- 



-C2- 




-Di 



-DZ- 



D3 



-D4- 




E 1 



-E2- 



E3- 



Plate VI. A knowledge of the various operations involved in 
the work of correctly transplanting plants is essential for their 
subsequent normal development. These diagrammatic drawings 
accompanied by the explanation on the opposite page illustrate 
various transplanting operations. 



PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING 35 

has a larger spread of roots than plants grown in nursery rows, and 
as it has never been previously transplanted or root pruned it suffers 
more severely through loss of root system. Top pruning must there- 
fore be more severe for collected plants than for nursery material, to 
offset the greater loss of roots. Collected stock usually requires a 
longer period in which to become well established in its new location. 
When the loss in transplanted stock is ten or fifteen per cent., the aver- 
rage loss in collected stock may be as high as twenty per cent. The 
usual period required for establishing nursery stock in its new loca- 
tion is two years. The usual period for establishing collected stock may 
range from two to four years. 



Season of Year for Transplanting. Planting seasons in differ- 
ent localities are influenced by many factors. Soil conditions and 
climatic conditions are the most important, as seen in Chapter II. 
Heavy soils are more friable during the fall, while during the spring 
they remain heavy, cold, and wet until quite late. In such soils if but 
little planting is to be done it is better to plant during the spring 
months for the reason that clay soils tend, through frost action during 
the winter months, to heave out material which is planted in the fall. 
It is undoubtedly true that fall planting, especially in heavy soils, 
requires more thorough winter protection than spring planting in the 
same soil. On the other hand, if a quantity of planting is to be done 
it is much safer to plant during the fall in a heavy soil, especially as a 
rainy season is frequently experienced during the early spring months, 
thus delaying planting work until growth is too far advanced. There 
is little actual difference between the desirability of spring planting 
and fall planting. There are arguments on both sides of the question 
and, with the exception of those plants which are adapted for trans- 
planting only at a specific season, the writer suggests that planting 
should be done whenever the soil is ready to receive the plants, whether 
it be spring or fall. This is especially true in the loamy soils. Trans- 
planting should not be done too late in the spring, for the reason that 
growth will be too far advanced for the plants to be moved with 
safety, and the season will become hot and dry before the plants are 
well established. It is for this reason that plants taken from a colder 
climate to a much warmer climate should preferably be transplanted 
in the fall. 



36 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

Planting Beds. General Preparations of. Soil for planting 
should be prepared carefully. Beds for shrubbery should be dug at 
least twelve inches deep and ample width and depth provided for 
trees, varying according to their size. The soil should be made loose 
and friable so that it will cover the roots thoroughly. Well-rotted 
manure should be incorporated in planting beds, but never directly in 
contact with the roots, especially of evergreens. Heavy soils should be 
lightened, if possible, by the addition of sandy loam or straw manure 
and light soils should be improved by the addition of vegetable matter. 

Oftentimes owners of property are so anxious to do their planting 
in an economical way that they lose sight of the fact that thorough 
preparation of all planting areas, although more expensive, is good 
economy, and the least expensive way in the long run of obtaining good 
results. Poor preparation of planting beds as well as foundations for 
lawn areas means an increased expense in the cost of maintenance 
during the succeeding years after the completion of the original work. 
Thorough preparation of planting beds can be accomplished only 
through the use of good friable topsoil and an adequate supply of well- 
rotted manure. It is an easy matter in all planting work, especially 
that done in clay soils, to do so-called pocket planting and to feel that 
the initial expense has been very greatly reduced. In all planting 
areas bordering refined laVns this method of planting is not desirable. 
It causes a "soil-bound" and a stunted growth of the root system and 
does not provide the adequate food supply which plants growing freely 
in a loose and friable soil can obtain. 

Heeling-in Stock to Be Transplanted. When shipments of 
stock are received it is frequently impossible to plant the material as 
rapidly as it is unpacked, and it is often impossible to plant the stock 
because the beds are not prepared. The placing of stock in temporary 
nursery rows immediately after it has been unpacked is called "heeling 
in." In this manner stock may be preserved m its normal condition 
until such time as it can be transplanted to its permanent location. 
There are a few important points in connection with the operation of 
"heeling-in" stock which should be clearly understood. Trees 
and shrubs, when "heeled-in" over winter, should be leaned to the 
north so that the low winter sun may not shine directly into the tops 
nor so readily melt the frozen ground about the stems. Thus they are 
protected better from freezing and thawing of the ground and from 



PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING 37 

premature starting of the buds in the spring. Nursery stock may be 
placed in temporary nursery rows, either by keeping the plants tied in 
original bundles as taken from the packing boxes, or by taking the 
individual plants from each bundle and heeling them in separately. 
The latter method is the safer and is the one to be adopted if plants 
are to remain in these temporary nursery rows for a period longer than 
ten days or two weeks. When stock is "heeled-in" in bundles, a 
special effort should be made to get the fine topsoil worked into the air 
spaces among the roots of the plants in each bundle. Permitting the 
air to reach the roots in the middle of the bundle because this precau- 
tion is not taken, is one of the most frequent sources of injury. The 
best method to adopt to be certain that fine soil is worked in among the 
roots is to thoroughly water the plants when they are "heeled-in" 
and to make sure that the water leaves no roots suspended in air. 
When individual plants are placed in temporary nursery rows, where 
they are to remain for a period longer than three or four weeks, they 
should be spaced not closer than twelve inches, or even farther apart 
for the larger shrubs, to eliminate injury from crowding as soon as the 
new growth begins (See Plate VI). 

Root Protection and Puddling. The important object in trans- 
planting is to transfer the plant to its new position in such a condition 
that growth will immediately continue as nearly normal as possible 
when growing conditions become favourable. Growth is first excited 
and maintained by very fine, fibrous roots, almost thread-like in 
character, which attach themselves to the soil. It is this fine root 
growth which is so sensitive to injury from drying-out processes, and 
which must be protected against the sun's rays, and also from the 
eflFect of wind. A dry wind will work greater injury to plants which 
are left uncovered during any unnecessary length of time than will a 
bright sun on a moist day. 

It is often necessary to transplant material under exceedingly un- 
favourable cotiditions, due to wind, or sun, or when plants have 
advanced in leaf growth. Under such circumstances it is advisable to 
"puddle" the roots at the time when the plants are removed from the 
temporary nursery rows, and before they are planted permanently. 
"Puddling" consists in dipping the roots of the plants in a basin 
hollowed out of the soil and filled with a molasses-like mixture of loam 
and water. This "puddling" process leaves a coating of mud over the 
fine roots and prevents excessive drying out until the material is planted. 



38 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

Drainage for Transplanted Stock. The soil in which plants are 
placed should be considered carefully. Sandy soils which have ample 
drainage, and clayey soils, which naturally retain water, require dis- 
tinctly different treatment. It is invariably necessary in clayey soils, 
especially with larger trees, to provide artificial drainage. In sandy 
soils, on the other hand, an extra supply of water must be added, 
especially when stock is transplanted during the latter part of the 
spring season or in the warmer climates. A plant should not be 
placed in a "pocket," excavated in shale or clay, which will afford 
little or no drainage; and it is of course better not to plant on a 
small mound which will lose moisture rapidly during the dry season. 
The common practice of "hilling" earth around the stem of the 
plant, which sheds water away from the roots, is to be discouraged. 
A shallow, basin-shaped depression should be left around the stem. 
This will hold the water until it soaks down to the roots. But 
suitable allowance must be made for later settling of the loosened 
earth. 

Balled-and-Burlapped Root Systems. Planting material is 
often lifted with a ball of earth left intact around the roots. The ball 
of earth after being lifted is then carefully wrapped with burlap. 
This process is used with large material, evergreens, and any plants 
that are difficult to move. The great danger of transplanting such 
material after it has been wrapped for three or four days lies in the fact 
that during this period the outer thin layer of earth on the ball 
becomes hard and dry. The general practice with many planters has 
been to plant the stock without further care after removing the burlap. 
In the course of a few months the plant dies. Loss is due to insufficient 
moisture reaching the outer coating of the ball to loosen it, and thus 
necessary water cannot reach the roots, which have become sealed inside 
the hard coating. The best practice with all plants which have been 
"balled and burlapped" is to immerse the ball in water for a short 
time in order to thoroughly loosen the dirt in this outer coating before 
transplanting. It is never advisable simply to slit the burlap with a 
knife without removing the covering entirely and soaking the ball with 
water before transplanting. Place the plant in the hole where it is 
to be planted, then cut the binding and remove the burlap very slowly 
and carefully, exercising caution to avoid disturbing the ball; then 
partially fill the hole with water. 



PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING 39 

Depth for Transplanting. The question is often asked as to how 
deep stock should be set when it is transplanted. This is a query 
which must be applied to various types of material according to the 
special requirements of each. For example, some of the more tender 
perennials like the shasta daisy, the foxglove, and the cardinal flower 
should not be set as deep as some of the hardier types Uke the phlox, the 
larkspur, and the hardy sunflower. The suggestions here, however, are 
general. A plant in its new location should stand at about the same 
level as it stood before. There is more danger of setting a plant too 
deep in a clayey soil than in that which is sandy, for it is vital that the 
air should reach the roots. More stock is injured by deep planting 
than by shallow, and it often will be found well to set the plant with the 
crown or top of the roots an inch or more nearer the surface than it was 
before. This is especially true in the case of trees which, as is fre- 
quently observed, are easily killed by filling in earth around them. In 
the case of shrubs it is not a serious matter, except with rhododendrons 
and azaleas. These two plants are strongly characterized by having 
roots that remain near the surface. Roses of all kinds, however, are 
better set deep, for they readily throw out new roots above the old. 
Deep planting thus incidentally helps to conserve the supply of 
moisture so essential to success with the rose. In the case of budded 
roses it is necessary to have the union at least two and a half or three 
inches below the surface of the ground, in order that suckers may not 
spring up from the stock and choke the engrafted plant. Vines, 
particularly grape vines, also it is well to plant deep. In fact, grape 
vines are often led under the ground for a rod or more to spring up at a 
distant point where it is desired to have them grow. But with 
perennials in general, extreme care must be exercised. Those like the 
iris, with leaves that spring from a point near the ground, are made to 
decay by earth heaped about them. Those with thick, fleshy roots 
particularly should be planted only according to a careful observance of 
their habit of growth. The peony does not make good bloom if the 
eyes are sunk much more than two and a half inches below the 
surface. In the transplanting of the roots of the larkspur it 
should be borne in mind that the crown at the base of the plant 
should be covered with good topsoil to a depth of approximately 
two or three inches. In all transplanting calculation should be 
made of the possibility of the earth settling around the plant 
(See Plate VI), 



40 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

Fertilizing Transplanted Stock. In using fertilizers it is not 
advisable to apply them in any quantity so that they will come in 
direct contact with the roots of newly transplanted stock. It is always 
essential for plants to become established before they can make use of a 
fertilizer; otherwise injury may result. Until a tree makes a new 
terminal bud on the second growth its root system has not become 
established nor has it developed fibrous feeding rootlets sufficient to 
support the tree. A safe recommendation is that fertilizers should be 
so distributed in the soil surrounding the roots of transplanted stock 
that the food can become available as soon as the roots have started 
growth. In transplanting nursery trees and large trees a slow-acting 
fertilizer, such as bone meal, can be used in the soil around the roots, 
because the fertilizer will become available at the time when the tree 
has developed some of its new root growth. 

Tamping and Watering. Soil should be made compact in among 
the roots of newly transplanted stock by watering or tamping. Tamp- 
ing may be accomplished by pressing down the soil with the heel or a 
stick. In tamping, care should be exercised not to press too heavily 
Immediately around the stem of the plant, as in so doing injury may 
be caused by the breaking of roots. Soil that can be readily packed 
should be used around the roots. This is necessary, as any air spaces 
remaining will cause drying out of roots and consequent injury to the 
plants. 

If water is available, it is advisable to run some slowly into the holes 
where material is planted, either at the time of planting or immediately 
after planting. The best plan is to put it in when the hole is partly 
filled with earth around the roots. This is done further to compact 
the soil and to provide necessary moisture. Unless soil is particularly 
moist, newly transplanted stock should be watered shortly after 
transplanting. It is not advisable, however, to apply very much 
water in soils or sites extremely retentive of moisture for it is quite as 
easy to injure plants from over-watering as it is to preserve them by 
giving them just sufficient water to meet their requirements. 

Transplanting Small Seedlings. For transplanting small seed- 
lings of trees and shrubs a well-protected spot should be selected, and 
the ground should be prepared to a depth of twelve or fifteen inches by 
deep spading and careful raking. Prepare the area in the same way 




mH 



-a -Q 



2 o 

a. M 



2 o ^ 



1-, r- 1) 
<U O ■ — ^ 



i- C 3 




'^ > 



Ji tu >> 



^ 


:S 


OJ 




. — ^ 






oa 


OJ 








> 




g 






tj 


J 


r3 


<u 




Pi, \ I I \ I i I . I o most of lis in rlu- nmt In i ii st.iti s r iir nu rhod of seeding 
a lawn is familiar, but the method of making lawns in southern states by 
planting Bermuda grass, is little known. In these photographs small clumps 
of Bermuda grass are being planted in "hills" staggered at intervals ranging 
from 1 8 inches to 30 inches. The thicker the planting the more quickly a 
mat of turf can be developed. (See page 62) 



PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING 41 

as for a vegetable garden. The little plants, which should not have 
been exposed at all to the warm air or drying winds, are then best 
puddled before they are lined out. But in this actual planting there 
is danger of permitting the mud in which they were puddled to become 
hardened about their roots. Further to safeguard them, particu- 
larly if they are evergreens, it is necessary to shade them until they 
are well established in the new home. Some evergreens, particu- 
larly the small shrubby kinds, need such shading even beyond the 
first year. 

Pruning Transplanted Stock. Suggestions with reference to 
pruning are covered more fully in the chapter on "Pruning." One 
of the fundamental practices to be followed in connection with the 
correct transplanting of stock is to prune all branches and roots 
properly. Any branches that are crowding should be carefully pruned 
at the time of transplanting, especially if the transplanting is done in 
the spring; otherwise it is a better practice to leave the stock standing 
in its new position during the winter and perform the necessary prun- 
ing of the top in the early spring or later winter months. An exception 
to this practice is the case of maple trees, which should be pruned 
before sap starts to flow in the spring. With trees and shrubs hav- 
ing a heavy top, at least one-third of the top should be removed 
at the time of transplanting, or before the stock has commenced to 
make its new growth in the spring. This is done to offset the loss 
of roots incurred in moving and it is essential except with nursery 
stock which has been frequently root-pruned at the nursery. All 
bruised and broken roots should be carefully pruned, with a clean 
cut, at the time of transplanting. Only in this manner will roots 
heal and possible decay be avoided. Save as many roots as possible 
when moving. 

Winter Protection of Newly Transplanted Stock. A neces- 
sary feature in caring for newly transplanted plants, especially those 
set in the fall, is to apply a suitable mulch for winter protection. This 
applies to all kinds of transplanted material. A mulch, in heavier 
clayey soils, reduces the possible injury caused by changes of tempera- 
ture and consequent heaving of the plants. A proper mulch of fresh 
stable litter, appHed three to six inches in depth, keeps the soil at an 
even temperature and prevents extreme freezing conditions from 



42 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

injuring the roots. A mulch which is largely straw may provide a 
refuge for rabbits, rats, and mice which frequently girdle plants during 
the winter months. 

Transplanting Trees. Some plants, particularly trees, may be 
transplanted successfully while young but are more difficult to move 
as they get older. Examples of this are the hickory and oaks, which, 
with the exception of the pin oak, form deep tap roots. The tulips and 
magnolias are hard to move because they have few fibrous roots; 
while maples and elms, on the contrary, have many fibrous roots 
and are moved more easily. Junipers transplant more readily when 
older, for they then have a more extensive lateral root system. 

Season to Transplant, and Preparation of Holes. Large trees 
should be transplanted when they are dormant. It may be necessary 
to move other material before the growing period has stopped, but 
this should seldom be attempted with older trees. Large trees are 
moved in winter, and it is preferable to move them when the ground is 
frozen. The ball of earth on the roots will then remain fairly intact 
and there will be a minimum of root loss when moving. Holes for the 
trees should be dug with straight sides and with bottom rather convex 
or slightly rounded. This is much to be preferred to making holes 
bowlshaped and it permits an opportunity to spread the roots more 
naturally than in a hole where the middle is deeper than the sides. 
A common error in transplantmg large trees is that of providing a 
hole not sufficiently large to receive the roots of the tree without cramp- 
ing. A hole for a large tree greater than five to six inches in diameter 
should not be less than eight to ten feet in diameter, and never less than 
three feet in depth. The most common method of transplanting large 
trees is the method of cutting the roots down to a ball approximating 
eight to ten feet in diameter. Trees transplanted in this way are 
frequently subjected to a root-pruning process during the previous 
summer, or preferably during the previous year. 

It has been stated by authorities, who are in a position to know, that 
the ideal method of transplanting trees is by saving all of the root 
system, if possible. This process is known as "combing" out the root 
system. Under this method all of the roots are traced down to their 
fine ends and then the roots are tied up in burlap in order to pre- 
vent excessive drying out of the fine fibrous roots. Transplanting 



PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING 43 

in this way requires much more care, but it assures less loss than the 
other method, which is a violent process and requires strong recupera- 
tive powers in the tree which is transplanted. 

Drainage of Tree Pits. Ample drainage must be provided for 
large trees, especially when set in clayey soil. The soil with which 
trees are transplanted is normally a medium loam, not too compact in 
character. This soil is much more porous than the heavy clay soil 
in which the hole for the tree may be excavated. Consequently, 
the natural tendency during wet seasons is for the water to drain 
toward the tree pit and to "water soak" the loose topsoil in which the 
tree has been set. This really places the tree in a reservoir. A tree 
will survive such treatment if it can withstand extreme moisture con- 
ditions, or if the water drains slowly away. However, the tree is 
generally killed during the first season, or may survive in a much 
weakened condition. The normal method of draining trees is to pro- 
vide a four-inch tile connected with some outlet in the form of existing 
tile drains, or lower ground, so that the water may be taken away. 
In the event that there is no opportunity to provide this type of 
drainage it is desirable to excavate a hole to a greater depth — approxi- 
mately three to five feet — and thereby provide below the tree a space 
of at least twelve inches which should be filled with broken stone or 
other porous material and in which water resulting from normal rain- 
fall may be collected. In this way the root growth may be kept from 
drowning. 

Method of Procedure in Transplanting Large Trees. It is 
economical in transplanting large trees to adopt the following method 
of procedure. 

In selecting large trees for transplanting great care should be 
exercised to select only those individual trees which show a vigorous 
growing condition and which are more or less symmetrical. 

1. Select and stake the proposed location where the tree is to be transplanted. 

2. Cover this space, over a diameter of at least ten feet, with ten to twelve inches 

of fresh stable manure. This is more economical than to excavate the hole 
and fill it with topsoil for the reason that this topsoil is apt to freeze and be 
useless at time of transplanting. 

3. Preserve a single large pile of topsoil (rather than a number of small piles, 

which freeze in a severe winter) and cover this with twelve or fifteen inches of 



44 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

stable litter, in order to protect it from freezing and to make it readily avail- 
able when the trees are transplanted. It is quite essential that this topsoil 
should be friable at the time of planting. 
4. When conditions are favourable for transplanting, remove the stable manure 
from the place where the tree is to be planted, excavate the hole, dig up the 
tree, place it in the hole, cover the roots with the topsoil, and then replace 
the stable manure over this area. This covering will then serve as a mulch and 
as protection against further freezing, and against evaporation in hot weather. 

After trees are planted guy wires should be set to prevent wind 
storms from bending or tippmg the trees over. It is never a safe 
practice to transplant any large tree without supporting it with wires. 
The reason for attaching guy wires to newly transplanted trees is two- 
fold. First, to be sure that the tree does not blow over during a severe 
windstorm, and second, to keep the tree from swaying without blowing 
over and thereby loosening the root system and letting air get into the 
soil around the roots. This second reason for guying trees is an im- 
portant one, and is sufficient in itself to require a very careful tight- 
ening of the wires which hold the trees in place. In placing guy 
wires on the trunk it should be protected from injury by the use 
of pieces of hose, bagging, or canvas. 

Protection After Transplanting. Large trees when trans- 
planted must be amply protected against evaporation during the hot 
summer months. This protection is given to the tree m two ways. 
First, a mulch consisting of straw, litter, or leaves is applied to a depth 
of six to eight inches, over an area eight to ten feet in diameter, im- 
mediately around the base of the tree. Second, the trunk is wrapped 
with burlap or bagging to prevent excessive drying out. Many newly 
transplanted trees are injured by the hot rays of the sun through 
lack of this protection which prevents a drying out of the bark and 
cambium tissue on the exposed trunk of the tree. This drying out 
often results in injury to large trees (as shown in Plate VII, Page 75) 
to such an extent that the bark cracks, dries up, and becomes loosened 
from the trunk of the tree thus exposing the inner wood immediately 
under the bark. It is quite as necessary to provide suitable mulch 
during the winter months of the next season after the transplanting, 
as to provide one in the summer months. In a newly transplanted 
tree a fine root growth is developed near to the surface of the ground, 
and this root growth is easily injured by any excessive freezing and 
thawing which may occur during a severe winter. 



PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING 45 

Pruning Trees After Transplanting. After the transplanting, 
the top and the root growth of a tree must be balanced. It is necessary 
to remove a portion of the root growth in order to make it practicable 
to handle the tree, and the removal of roots and liftmg of the tree from 
its existing location shuts off much of the supply of moisture which goes 
into the tree. In every plant that is moved there is stored within the 
plant a certain amount of food material which becomes available 
immediately when growth starts. A portion of the top of the tree 
should therefore be removed in order to lessen the possible areas of 
evaporation and areas of leaf growth, which draw heavily upon the 
store of food in the tree; otherwise this reserve supply is apt to be ex- 
hausted before root growth is started sufficiently to provide the tree 
with new moisture. There are instances when it is not necessary to 
prune because the full benefit of the top is immediately required. 
The latter, however, will require more care for the tree during the 
summer months and entails a greater liabihty to loss because of the 
unbalanced condition of the top and root growth. A tree that is 
properly pruned at the time of transplanting will, within three years, 
equal in development a similar tree that is transplanted, not pruned, 
and given much necessary additional care. 

Fertilizing Newly Transplanted Trees. In transplanting 
trees there is great danger that they may be over-fertilized. A tree 
which has just been transplanted has suffered a severe shock to its 
root system. It is not in a condition to utilize a great quantity of food. 
It must be supplied with food slowly and only in such quantities as it 
can readily take up through its root system. There is great danger of 
over-stimulating newly transplanted trees at the time when their leaves 
are not sufficiently developed to digest the food which is supplied, 
and hence instead of forcing more growth in the tree, a condition 
is apt to be brought about in the soil surrounding the roots and in the 
tree itself which retards growth instead of encouraging it. At the 
time a tree is transplanted a normal amount of well-rotted manure 
should be worked into the soil but not in direct contact with the roots. 
Not until the tree shows evident signs of regaining its normal vigour 
by developing leaves which are full size, and new wood of a normal 
length, should the tree be heavily fertilized. Such trees may be 
"tuned up" by feeding them with a mixed fertilizer of potash, dried 
blood, and bone meal. Such a fertilizer may be fed to trees during the 



46 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

year previous to the time that they are transplanted, in order to make 
them more vigorous and better able to withstand the shock of trans- 
planting, or such a mixed fertilizer may be fed to the tree in small quan- 
tities, five to ten pounds to an average-sized tree (six to eight inches 
in diameter) within the first year after the tree has been transplanted. 
Under no conditions should a newly transplanted tree be left on a 
neatly mowed lawn area without artificial methods being resorted to 
for feeding it. The old saying, as quoted from Mr. Hicks, is that 
"Neatness is starvation." Nature provides a continual gathering of 
leaves and grass which rots and makes fertilizer for the tree. When the 
grass is kept closely clipped and the clippings taken away, and when 
the leaves are raked each fall, then this neatness deprives the tree of all 
of its possible source of food supply. 

Transplanting Nursery-grown Trees. Nursery trees are trees 
which have been grown under nursery conditions for at least two or 
three years. The most desirable method of handling such trees is to 
ball-and-burlap them, to lessen the danger of injury from trans- 
planting. This applies to small trees with well-developed root 
systems, and especially to those which have been so root pruned that 
the root spread is in a smaller, more compact area than that of the 
usual nursery tree. Holes for nursery trees should be excavated at 
least one foot larger than the ball preserved with the tree. In other 
words, the roots of the tree should never be pruned to fit the hole in 
which the tree is to be planted and the roots should never be crowded. 
It is quite essential to place small guy wires, not less than three in 
number, to each small nursery tree from two to five inches in diameter. 
This is especially necessary when trees are in exposed locations or 
stand alone as specimens. 

When large plantations are set out and the trees will be subjected 
to broad sweeps of wind, it is more economical not to guy, but rather to 
watch the plantation, and from time to time straighten up such trees 
as are pushed out of their normal position by the wind. In an effort to 
build up plantations of native growth, such as oak, beech, hickory, 
basswood, and any other forest trees, it is better to plant these trees 
in concentric circles or a spiral arrangement so that during the first 
three or four years any one could cultivate among these trees without 
very much difficulty. If the trees in such plantations are staggered 
here and there without any relationship to any avenues through which 



PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING 47 

harrow or cultivator can pass, the maintenance work becomes a ques- 
tion of hand work instead of team work. 

Transplanting Shrubs Efficiently. In transplanting shrubbery 
the stock should be left out of the ground as short a time as possible. 
A crew of two or three men under one competent planting foreman is as 
many as can be operated to good advantage in planting shrubbery and 
perennials according to some definite plan, unless the men are thor- 
oughly familiar with methods of planting, and the required loca- 
tion for the plants. 

Transplanting Vines. The transplanting of vines is similar to 
transplanting shrubs. Vines are very often planted too close to foun- 
dation walls. Care must be taken not to set plants against a wall, 
but rather three or four inches away. All foreign material, such as 
hme, bricks, etc., should be removed from the ground to a depth of at 
least twelve inches, and the vines placed in excellent, fine soil. Vines 
should not be planted against walls or buildings where the overhang 
of the eaves or other features of the building will deprive them of the 
normal amount of rain; otherwise great care must be exercised in 
artificial watering. 

Transplanting Perennials. The season for transplanting peren- 
nials is not quite as definite as the season for transplanting trees and 
shrubs. Under normal conditions of cloudy days and good mulch- 
ing protection to prevent later evaporation perennials can be trans- 
planted during their growing period, except when they are nearing 
their maximum of growth and blooming condition. It is preferable, 
however, to transplant perennials as soon as their maximum growth is 
completed for the season, and at the time when the newly transplanted 
material can obtain a slight root growth in its new location before 
winter conditions commence. There are some types of perennials, as 
indicated in group No. XL-A, Page 289, which should be transplanted 
in the fall, and others which should be transplanted in the spring. 
For most perennial stock, however, there is no difference between fall 
plantmg and spring planting, provided the proper time is selected at 
either season. The principal objection to transplanting perennials in 
the fall is that in heavy clay soils and in the colder climates the plants, 
if not carefully mulched during the winter months, are apt to be 
heaved from their new locations by freezing and thawing. Per- 



48 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

ennials should never be transplanted when the ground is frozen, even 
slightly. Do not move perennials when it is impossible to provide 
the plants with rich topsoil in which to continue growth. Perennials 
may be "heeled-in" in the same way as other plants, with one differ- 
ence. Perennials must be removed from the bundles in which they are 
shipped and each plant "heeled-in" separately. Unless this is done the 
plants are apt to mildew or rot. Perennials "heeled-in" during warm 
weather should be covered with a light litter of straw for further pro- 
tection against drying out. When transplanting perennials, es- 
pecially those which have been growing for two or more years, it is 
quite necessary to "divide" them. This operation of dividing plants 
is explained in the chapter on "Maintenance — Perennials" (Page 
88). Dividing should be done whenever the plants become too thick. 
The reason why many perennials purchased from nurseries do not do 
well during the first year is because the plants which are sold by the 
nursery are often the result of too frequent subdividing of the parent 
plants and the young plants are not given sufficient time to estabUsh 
themselves before bemg sold to the prospective purchasers. The 
result is that those who purchase these plants must wait at least during 
one growing season before the perennials will develop normal flower 
growth. No one who is developing for the first time a perennial flower 
garden should expect a normal development of good flowers from 
perennials supplied by the average nursery. Such persons should be 
prepared to wait until the second growing season before expecting a 
normal flower effect. 

Transplanting Evergreens. Evergreens should not be trans- 
planted to a "cold" soil, but rather into a soil that is sufficiently warm 
to permit root growth to begin immediately and to continue either 
during the spring and summer or during a period of two or three weeks 
in the fall before the plants become dormant. The best season for 
transplanting evergreens, especially in colder climates, is during the 
spring months, just as new growth is beginning. This is done for the 
purpose of giving the plants an opportunity to go through one growing 
season and thereby better to establish themselves to withstand cold 
weather in their new location. Stable manure which is not thor- 
oughly rotted should never be placed in contact with or close to 
the roots of any evergreen plants. Fresh stable manure mixed in 
any soil where evergreens are to be planted is fatal to the plants. 



PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING 49 

When evergreens are shipped from a colder and more backward section 
to a more advanced growing season in a warmer section of the country 
it is usually advisable to transplant in the fall. Evergreens in the 
opposite-leaved group, comprising the arborvitaes, retinosporas, and 
junipers, should seldom be transplanted in the fall after the plants 
begm to shed their leaves. This condition may be recognized when 
a considerable portion of the leaves throughout the plant turn 
brown. 

If it is necessary to transplant evergreens during the fall when the 
growing season is completed and the ground is subject to light freezing 
and thawing, the best treatment is to immediately place around each 
newly transplanted plant a light mulch of stable litter three or four 
inches in depth. This is done in order to maintain the ground at an 
even temperature and to keep the soil sufficiently warm so that some 
root growth will start before freezing conditions develop. 

It is the general practice, in shipping evergreens, to "ball-and-burlap" 
them. In this condition evergreens can be shipped for a considerable 
distance, and if properly wet before being shipped they will remain 
normal for a period of two or three weeks. As a rule, evergreens for 
transplanting are grown in a soil which is composed of some clay 
rather than in a soil which will not hold together around the roots. 

Rhododendrons. In the northern sections of the United States it 
is generally assumed that spring planting of rhododendrons is more 
desirable than fall planting. This is recommended mostly because 
plants transplanted in the spring have a better opportunity to es- 
tablish themselves and are less liable to injury during their first 
winter. If rhododendrons are to be transplanted in the fall, it should 
be ascertained whether the locality from which the plants are coming 
has received a normal amount of rainfall prior to the time that the 
plants are dug. The greatest difficulty in transplanting rhododen- 
drons is that with insufficient rainfall and a dry season, before the 
plants are dug, there is insufficient moisture stored in the plants to 
offset the transpiration caused during the winter months. When 
material is transplanted in the late fall roots do not seem to make 
sufficient growth to take up the necessary moisture from the soil, and 
therefore the plant must carry itself through the winter on the strength 
of the moisture stored up in the cells. This appears to be the main 
cause for criticism against the fall planting of rhododendrons. It 



50 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

should be borne in mind that the roots of rhododendrons and of the 
kindred plants such as the azaleas, feed near the surface of the ground. 
For this reason, and also because of the evergreen foliage characteristics 
some root action should be encouraged, if possible, during the milder 
winter months, and thus mulching of such plants is vital. Extreme 
care should be exercised in transplanting these types of plants. Plants 
should be put in a heavy, well-rotted leaf mold soil at no greater depth 
than the plant stood before moving from its previous location. It is a 
common practice in the preparation of lawn areas and planting areas, 
especially in sections where clay soil predominates, to apply a large 
amount of lime. Because lime in the soil is an element very injurious 
to the growth of broad-leaved evergreens, none should ever be put in 
or close to any beds which are to be planted with rhododendrons. 
This is also true of building plaster and mortar, which is frequently 
thrown into the soil adjacent to the foundation of buildings where 
these plants may later be put. 

Rhododendrons should never be planted in a location where the soil 
around the roots will dry out. They should be sheltered from the 
morning sun and also from extreme exposures of wind. During most 
of the growing season the falling of the dew as a result of the con- 
densation of the moisture in the atmosphere causes little globules of 
water to remain on the surface of the leaves during the night. These 
particles of moisture are slowly evaporated during the early part of the 
morning. The rays of the early morning sun coming in direct contact 
whh the leaves of rhododendrons on which these particles of moisture 
are still present are concentrated and focused by these many little 
"lenses" and cause a burning of the surface of the leaves which in the 
case of rhododendrons is extremely injurious to the plant. This is one 
of the most important reasons why rhododendrons with their sensi- 
tive leaf surface should not be exposed to the direct rays of the early 
morning sun, at least until after the heat of the day has caused an 
evaporation of the particles of moisture remaining on the leaves 
from the previous night. The baking out of the soil around the roots 
is extremely injurious to them. If this soil can be maintained at an 
even, cool temperature, their normal growth is better assured during 
the summer. They are not so much injured because of the cold, but 
because of the intense sun which causes evaporation of moisture from 
the leaves at a time when the ground is frozen and at a time when the 
plants are unable to replace this loss of" moisture by additional water 



PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING 51 

taken through the roots from the soil. This condition is especially 
true in the clay loam soils of the middle west. 

They should never be watered with any water which contains lime. 
This is equally as important as the necessity of not planting rhodo- 
dendrons in a limestone soil. It matters not how much the soil may be 
changed in the beds or how much leaf mold may be put in the beds 
in which to plant rhododendrons if the water with which they are 
frequently soaked comes from a limestone region. 

Rhododendrons will grow in any good garden soil, but they much 
prefer a soil with a good deal of humus in it, and they should be thor- 
oughly mulched with leaf mold soil which should never be cultivated, 
but left in its native woodland condition. 

Transplanting Annuals. It is preferable to transplant annuals in 
a fine, loose loam, and never to transplant them in a heavier clay soil, 
which will pack and dry out. Upon the size of the plants will depend 
the care that it is necessary to give them immediately after trans- 
planting. The smaller the plants the more care will be required in 
careful watering and shading during the hot portions of the day. 
While with proper care annuals may be transplanted at any season 
during the spring or early summer, yet the late spring (May through 
June 15th) is preferred. Annuals will develop best outdoors if they 
are transplanted at least two weeks in advance of the hot summer 
months. Frequent shifting, in pots or flats, is very beneficial through 
promoting the growth of fibrous roots which make transplanting more 
successful. 



CHAPTER V 

LAWNS 

The first part of this chapter treats of conditions in the North and 
the second part of the chapter treats of conditions in the South. 

LAWNS FOR THE NORTH 

Preparation of Lawn Areas. The keynote of success in securing 
a good lawn is thorough preparation of the area before seeding. Fail- 
ures are almost invariably due to poor preparation rather than to poor 
seed. Grading should be finished with a view to seeding either in the 
early fall or spring. Prepare the soil thoroughly, for the permanence 
of the sod rests entirely on this initial outlay. The soil should be deep 
and porous to produce deep rooting of the turf, which means success 
in combating winter-killing and drought. For the ideal lawn the 
ground must be prepared to a depth of one foot; but eighteen inches is 
preferable. If the area is large enough it should be plowed; otherwise 
spading must be resorted to. When the soil is naturally good and there 
is ample topsoil (six inches to eight inches) deep plowing without subsoil- 
ing is sufficient. In heavy soils the clay subsoil should be broken up 
but not brought to the surface. After plowing, if the area is large enough 
to permit the use of a team, the soil should be worked fine by harrow- 
ing. Follow this operation by levelling with shovels and hoes, and 
finally with rakes. The top layer of soil should be made very fine to 
induce quick germination of seed and permanency of sod. 

The average lawn to which the author refers is the lawn developed 
in the immediate vicinity of the residence. If building operations have 
extended over the greater portion of this lawn area, as is general on the 
smaller residence lots, then all of the topsoil should have been stripped 
and placed in one or more large piles prior to the commencement of any 
building operations. In the preparation of a lawn area under such 
conditions it is very advisable to delay actual work upon this area until 
after that portion of the building operations apt to cause further litter 
to be thrown over the lawn area is completed. While the ideal lawn 



LAWNS 53 

area should have a proper depth of topsoil in which the feeding roots of 
grass can develop, there are many instances where for purposes of 
economy or otherwise a sufficient depth of topsoil is not provided. 

The first step is to determine the depth of topsoil which is to be finally 
spread over the finished subgrade of the lawn. The less the depth of 
topsoil the greater will be the cost of future maintenance over a period 
of years succeeding the first year. The surface of the finished subgrade 
should be established to conform with the finished grade of the lawn 
area and at a definite, even depth below this finished grade of this lawn 
area. No topsoil should be spread over this subgrade until every pre- 
caution has been taken to be certain that an excessive depth of topsoil 
will not be necessary where spots of extreme depression can be located 
in the surface of the subgrade and previously filled. In sections of the 
country where the subsoil consists of a clay loam and other types of 
heavy soil the item of providing topsoil for the preparation of the lawn 
area is one of the most expensive items in the landscape development 
of the property. Experience has shown that topsoil is one of the 
items which is often subjected to the greatest amount of waste, and 
it should be carefully conserved and not used, in any instance, except 
to the correct depth as required. 

When the subgrade is completed and previous to the application of 
any topsoil it is often well, especially on types of clay soil, to apply a coat- 
ing of lime at the rate of not more than twenty-five pounds to every 
i,ooo square feet. On the top of this, a layer of well-rotted manure at 
the rate of one cubic yard for every five hundred square feet should be 
applied. The lime and manure should then be spaded or harrowed into 
this finished surface of the subgrade and the final surface smoothed with 
shovels or rakes before the final layer of topsoil is applied. This thor- 
ough preparation of the subgrade is much more essential if a shallow 
depth (two inches to three inches of topsoil) is to be used. It is not so 
essential if a more generous depth (four inches to six inches of topsoil) 
is to be used. 

F'ertilizer For Lawn Preparation. In the preparation of a lawn 
area the problem of correctly fertilizing this area is an important 
one. On the less fertile and poor types of soil a liberal application of 
well-rotted manure together with lime should be spread. Manure 
should be used at the rate of one cubic yard for each five hundred square 
feet and lime should be used at the rate of between twelve and twenty- 



54 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

five pounds to each i,ooo square feet. On the heavy types of soil this 
manure should be of a light texture containing sufficient straw, while on 
the sandy soil this manure should be of a heavy texture containing a 
quantity of humus. If the preparation of a lawn area is undertaken at 
least one year previous to the time that the actual seeding of the lawn is 
to be done then the heavy types of soil can be made more fertile and 
more porous by the development, during each spring and fall, of a cover 
crop of clover, cow peas, vetch, or rye. The deep roots of these plants 
and the frequent cultivation caused by plowing them under will do 
much to produce a mellow and friable condition of the soil. On the 
very heavy types of soil the frequent mistake is made of spreading a 
heavy coating of well-rotted manure over the surface of the proposed 
lawn area and plowing this under to a depth of ten inches to twelve 
inches. On the average lawn this is a great mistake, and a consider- 
able waste of time and money. Such lawns should be plowed thor- 
oughly, the soil made loose, and the surface pulverized as much as is 
practical with a disc harrow. A heavy coating of manure at the rate of 
one cubic yard to one and one-half cubic yards to each five hundred 
square feet should then be applied and harrowed into the soil. By this 
method the available food in the fertilizer is within reach of normal root 
growth of grass while under the other method such portions of the ma- 
nure as are plowed to a considerable depth (ten inches to twelve inches at 
least) are beyond the reach of normal root growth of lawn grasses and 
soon become imbedded in a heavy soil impervious to root growth. 

On the average lawn a top-dressing of manure at the rate of one- 
half to three-fourths cubic yards to five hundred square feet, of sheep 
manure at the rate of five pounds for each one hundred square feet or of 
bone meal at the rate of five pounds for each two hundred and fiifty 
square feet, should be applied and raked into the surface of the lawn. 
Manure, whenever used, especially in the preparation of lawns in the 
spring, should be well rotted in order to avoid so far as possible the 
presence of persistent weed seeds (such weeds as grow after the lawn is 
seeded). Bone meal and the types of dried manures commonly pur- 
chased on the market in bags do not bring into the lawn this objec- 
tionable feature. On the other hand, such concentrated fertilizers do 
not provide the humus which may be almost as essential as the food 
contained in the fertilizers. 

Drainage of Lawn Area. A part of the preparation of all lawns 



LAWNS 55 

which are constructed upon the heavy types of soil should consist of 
correct drainage in order to secure surface conditions conducive to the 
growth of good lawn grasses and to provide a firm texture to the 
lawn. Subsoil plowing is sometimes done with the object of correct- 
ing soil water conditions. This is not permanent, however, because 
the soil will pack down again within a few years. Before the topsoil 
is applied over the subgrade all necessary tile drainage should be 
installed at a depth averaging from twenty-four inches to thirty inches 
below the finished grade of the lawn and at intervals approximating 
from fifteen feet to twenty-five feet between lines of tile. This interval 
often depends upon the expense which the owner feels justified in 
making to procure an ideal lawn surface. 

Seeding of Lawns. A general rule is to sow in April and May; or 
September and October (See Plate III). It is but seldom that sowing 
in June or July is successful. If sown before the fall rains, grass 
should become sufl&ciently developed to withstand the winter weather. 
It is generally preferable to sow seed in the fall. If the soil is prop- 
erly prepared in the fall, seed may be sown on a light fall of snow 
in the spring. The seed will sink in as the snow melts and will germi- 
nate very quickly. As a general rule a lawn seeded in the fall will 
develop to better advantage with less maintenance cost than a lawn 
seeded in the spring, because any weed seed present in the grass seed 
will germinate and most of the weeds will be destroyed during the 
winter months; while if the same seed is sown in the spring it is neces- 
sary to remove these weeds by pulling them before they go to seed. 
Seed should be sown at the rate of eighty pounds to one hundred pounds 
to the acre, or one quart to three hundred square feet. Always sow 
thick. Choose a day when the soil is moist, when there is little or no 
wind, and when the weather is comparatively cool. Seed is scattered 
broadcast by hand, and the hand must be kept low. Go over the 
area in narrow rectangular sections marked out, sowing one-half the 
seed; then repeat the process, walking at right angles to the previous 
course followed. After sowing, the ground should be raked lightly 
and rolled thoroughly. Very young grass must be safeguarded against 
drought by frequent and deep watering. 

Wherever lawns are to be developed under large shade trees, such as 
maples, oaks, beeches, etc., great care should be used and the work of 
seeding should be completed at the earliest possible date in the fall. 



56 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

It is not practicable to seed lawns late in the fall where large trees drop 
leaves which if not removed within one or two days are apt to smother 
the young grass. This is an important point to keep in mind. 

The best grass generally for the foundation of a lawn, except on acid 
soil, is Kentucky blue grass. This does not fully mature until the 
third year. It is better, therefore, to use Kentucky blue grass in a 
mixture. Other grasses such as redtop and the creeping bents will 
produce a quicker effect and will keep out the weeds until the blue grass 
IS fully established. Kentucky blue grass during the first year grows 
thinly, and continues to become thicker with successive mowings. 
When it is fully established it will crowd out some of the less per- 
manent grasses in the mixture. The ideal lawn is one composed 
mostly of blue grass and it is also the most difficult to establish. 
Many people who wish to develop a good lawn in a short space of 
time resort to the use of a considerable portion of white clover. Clover 
is of no real value in the making of a fine lawn other than that it helps 
to produce a quick effect, thereby crowding out many early weeds, and 
that it produces a soft carpet effect with little difficulty, where the 
process of establishing a permanent lawn of blue grass might be slow. 

The immediate development of a carpet of green over the surface 
of a lawn area is no indication that a permanent lawn has been es- 
tablished. The construction of a permanent lawn which requires only 
a normal expense in future maintenance involves not only the question 
of selection of grass seed of permanent types but also questions of ade- 
quate drainage, especially on heavy types of soil, and thorough prepara- 
tion of the subsoil and the topsoil as a foundation of the lawn. Un- 
fortunately many persons ignorant of the real requirements of a 
permanent lawn give much credit to those persons who are able, by the 
use of quick growing and temporary types of grass seed together with 
clover seed, and quick-acting fertdizers such as sheep manure (which 
soon releases all of its food value and leaves the lawn in an unfertile 
condition), to succeed in producing an immediate effect of greensward 
in a remarkably short time. The permanent and desirable types of 
grasses will not develop within such a short period, and lawns of this 
temporary character, while exceedingly satisfactory during the first 
year, will usually prove unsatisfactory and expensive in their main- 
tenance cost during the succeeding years. Not only do certain types 
of grasses die out due to the nature of the grass and the lack of proper 
food supply but the lawn is seriously injured during the hot summer 



LAWNS 57 

because of the shallow depth of topsoil that causes feeding roots to 
remain near the surface of the ground. 

The various grass mixtures on the market vary in quality rather 
than in kind. It is inadvisable to buy poor seed. Many mixtures 
contain a large percentage of "chaff," and some mixtures contain more 
or less weed seed. It is highly desirable that any one responsible for 
the development of a good lawn should be able to identify the im- 
portant types of good seed m lawn mixtures. Of the various grass 
seeds used the fescue and the clovers produce a quick effect during 
the first year. 

The most common and satisfactory lawn seed mixture for the northern 
states is sixteen parts by weight of Kentucky blue grass, four parts of 
recleaned redtop, and one part of white clover. It should be used at the' 
rate of one pound to each three hundred square feet of lawn or one 
hundred and twenty pounds per acre. The Kentucky blue grass is 
adapted to the northeastern states and the northwestern coast. It thrives 
on limy soil and will occasionally grow on land devoid of lime if the 
dramage is extra good. It makes a dense, vivid green turf except during 
midsummer when it is adversely affected by hot weather. It should 
not be confused with Canada blue grass which produces a tough but not 
dense or attractive turf and sometimes succeeds where the soil is too 
thm for Kentucky blue grass. Redtop succeeds under a very large range 
of soil conditions, from drought to wet land. It is one of the best grasses 
for poor soils throughout the whole of the eastern United States and thus 
succeeds where blue grass fails. It does not make a dense turf unless 
planted thickly and mowed closely. White clover as a turf plant 
succeeds on poor soils, forms a dense, close mat, and stands mowing 
well. If Kentucky blue grass is sown alone one hundred and fifty pounds 
per acre are required and liming is beneficial. If redtop is seeded alone 
forty pounds of fancy "recleaned" seed per acre are sufficient and no 
lime is needed. Clover is never sown in a clean stand but may be sown 
with or after grass seed at the rate of ten pounds of seed per acre. 

For a fine turf similar to putting greens, use Chewing's or New Zealand 
red fescue, which is a grass having a dark green colour and which maJces 
a solid, compact turf. It is particularly adapted to sowing on sandy 
loam soil but succeeds well on clay loam or even on clays. When seeded 
alone one hundred pounds per acre should be used. It is the best lawn 
grass for growing in the shade under American conditions. Another 
fine-leaved grass making a dense, velvety turf is creeping bent. It does 



S8 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

best where the summers are cool and moist; that is, in the northeastern 
states and on the northwest coast. When the soil is limy, other 
grasses, such as blue grass and white clover, tend to crowd out creeping 
bent. It should be sown alone except that combined with red fescue 
it will be satisfactory for a few years, after which the two grasses tend 
to separate and make circular mats. 

There are standard mixtures on the market offered by the more 
reliable firms for special uses such as on golf greens, fairways, and 
shady locations. 

In the section south of Washington, D. C, except in the higher 
altitudes, it is not advisable to use Kentucky blue grass. White 
clover, in this section of the country, becomes the prevailing grass in 
lawns. In the northern part of this area, white clover, redtop, and 
Rhode Island bent make an excellent lawn, but not a lawn as per- 
manent in character as the northern turf. 

Sodding. Sodding instead of seeding has the following advantages: 
(i) grass of a known texture can be obtained; (2) an immediate stand of 
grass is secured; (3) sod can be laid at any season except when the ground 
is frozen. The disadvantages, however, are quite numerous: (i) a 
seeded lawn is as good and generally is better within a year; (2) 
the expense of sodding a lawn is great; (3) it is usually difficult 
to procure good sod; (4) sod will heave on heavy soils if laid too 
late in the fall; (5) it is difficult to get perfect unions between sods. 
Sod is generally used along the edges of walks, borders, banks, and 
close to buildings, when seeding an area; and also on areas such as 
terraces and laundry yards which are to be used immediately. The 
preparation of a lawn for sodding is the same as for seeding. Sod 
should be laid on a firm foundation; that is, the soil should be thor- 
oughly tamped before any sod is placed upon it. The best sod is 
secured from pastures which are on a heavy type of soil. Pasture 
turf is cropped and therefore forms a dense growth which can be 
removed in thin layers. Cut the sod about one and one-half inches 
thick, twelve inches wide, and three feet long. A foot-wide board 
should be laid on the turf and the strips cut along either side with an 
edger. The sod is lifted with a spade or preferably with a turfing 
iron. The strips are rolled up, grass side in, and should be relaid as 
soon as possible. When laying sod, fill the junctions with fine soil 
and then beat it down with the back of a spade or with a sod pounder. 



LAWNS 59 

remembering that it cannot be pounded too hard. After being laid, 
sod must be cared for carefully throughout the summer. 

LAWNS FOR THE SOUTH 

Soil and Climatic Conditions. The extreme heat and the long 
dry spells during the summer months throughout the southern states 
make it inadvisable to try to establish a turf similar to the turf of the 
northern lawns, composed mostly of Kentucky blue grass, redtop, 
clovers, and bents. These grasses, when used in the south for a lawn 
turf, will completely burn out during the summer months unless an 
abnormal amount of labour is employed to protect them by excessive 
waterings. While in the northern section of the country lawns in 
general are developed on good loam or topsoil, the soil conditions of the 
south are somewhat different. The soil throughout the south, es- 
pecially in Florida, is generally known as yellow or clay sand on which 
lawns can be developed with the least difficulty, and the white sand 
which contains little or no plant food and on which no satisfactory 
lawn can be developed without the addition of a considerable quantity 
of muck. The "topsoil" sand, so-called, often possesses a considerable 
quantity of food matter; but the ease with which water drains from it 
combined with the heat of summer will cause the northern types of 
grasses to burn out and also will kill many of the southern types of 
grasses. 

To one who has been accustomed to the sharp line of differentia- 
tion between the topsoils and subsoils of the north the problem of 
drawing a definite line between the topsoil and subsoil under the condi- 
tions of the far south is somewhat puzzling. As a matter of fact, on all 
soils, with the exception of a good type of muck soil coming from the 
swampy areas and the hammock land, no good lawn can be developed 
without the addition of considerable fertilizer. 

In the north the value of a lawn continues only during the growing 
season, from April until October. In the south, especially through- 
out the section visited by many of the northern tourists, temperature 
conditions are favourable for the growing of a lawn throughout the 
entire winter. It is therefore desirable to have types of grasses 
for the development of lawn areas both during the winter months and 
the summer months. The excessive cost of maintaining a good turf 
on lawn areas during the hot and dry summer months has discouraged 
the development of extensive lawn areas as seen in the northern states, 



6o THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

except on golf courses, where the fairways and greens are maintained 
regardless of normal cost. 

Little experimenting has been done in the far south to determine 
individual types or combinations of types of northern grasses which 
will thrive best under these climatic conditions both during the winter 
months and the summer months. 

Types of Grasses for Lawns. There are three groups of grasses 
which are used for the development of lawns in the far south (through- 
out Georgia, Alabama, and Florida). The first group consists of the 
more or less native grasses, Bermuda grass, St. Augustine grass, and 
blanket or carpet grass. These grasses will not make a perfect turf 
as a "perfect turf" is known in the northern states. They grow 
vigorously and spread rapidly when the temperature does not fall 
below 50 or 55 degrees. The second group, of which Ross's Southern 
Mixture is typical, is composed of types of northern grasses, such as 
orchard grass, Rhode Island bent, redtop, and a small portion of 
Italian rye, which as a result of experiments have produced good 
turf on southern lawns. The third group is made up of Italian rye, 
which germinates quickly and produces a green turf and lives for but 
a short period during the cooler winter months. It burns out quickly 
during the hot summer months. 

Types of Soils. In the preparation and development of lawn 
areas, especially on virgin soil, the land must be cleared and the stumps 
removed. It is preferable that stumps should either be pulled out 
by tractor or team, chopped out, or in the instance of pine lands, they 
should be burned out. The operation of blasting stumps, in order to 
remove them, leaves a considerable hole, which, when filled with loose 
soil, however thoroughly tamped, may cause a depression in the lawn 
on account of later settling. After the land is cleared and the stumps 
are removed, the lawn is brought to an even grade, and unless the soil 
is a rich yellow " topsoil " sand, it is advisable to spread a layer of muck, 
averaging from two to four inches in depth, over the entire lawn area. 
A deeper covering of muck would be better. The cost of excessive 
"mucking" is often the determining factor. This muck, which usually 
comes from the swamps, should be selected with great care. Not 
all so-called "muck" soil in swamps is adapted for use on lawns. 
It is often the case that swamp muck put on a high, dry, and sandy 



LAWNS 6 1 

soil will, under the sun's rays, quickly dry out and become pow- 
dery. It is best to obtain, if possible, a sandy muck or black soil 
of a vegetable nature and not of a woody nature. This can be obtained 
from the edges of the hammock lands. This type of muck does not 
dry out. Good muck, taken from the upper layers of swamp areas, 
ought to be mixed thoroughly with a generous amount of lime and the 
entire mixture ought to remain for two or three months before it is 
applied to the lawn area. The mucks to be avoided are the woody and 
very sour types. 

Planting and Seeding Lawns. The season for making a lawn 
varies with the kind of a lawn which is desired, and also with the 
season of the year when the lawn is to be used. Especially in the far 
southern states, some lawns may be intended for use and enjoyment 
throughout the entire year, while another group of lawns may be in- 
tended to be at their best during the winter months. 

With the lawn developed from Bermuda grass or St. Augustine grass 
the period required for the development of a good turf averages from 
three months to four months. Therefore, if a lawn of this type is to be 
developed as a lawn to be maintained throughout the entire year 
the Bermuda grass or St. Augustine grass can be planted at any 
time. The ideal time just prior to the rainy season in June or 
July should be selected so that the roots of this grass can have the 
benefit of the heavy rains. If a lawn of this character is to be developed 
as an asset to a distinctly winter home, and artificial watering condi- 
tions are immediately available, the Bermuda grass or St. Augustine 
grass can be planted at any time during the growing season. It is not 
advisable to plant either of these grasses during the winter months from 
December to February when temperature conditions are apt to be 
so low that growth is not encouraged. On the other hand, Italian 
rye, which is distinctly a grass for winter lawns, cannot be seeded 
to advantage in the summer months from April to October. 

Lawns composed of Italian rye may be seeded at any time of the 
year from the first of November to the first of March. The time re- 
quired for Italian rye to estabhsh itself, and to produce a green lawn 
area, averages from three to five weeks. An excellent way in which to 
obtain a green lawn during the winter months is to seed a Bermuda 
grass lawn, which is at least three months old, with Italian rye at the 
rate of one pound for every one hundred square feet. In the middle and 



62 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

southern portions of Florida this is perhaps the most satisfactory 
method of making a good turf which will be more or less firm and which 
will be green through the winter months. Italian rye will burn out as 
soon as the weather begins to get warmer during the middle or latter 
part of March, and can be reseeded on the foundation of Bermuda 
grass, in the same manner, during the succeeding fall. 

Lawns composed of the northern mixtures of grass seed, of which 
the Ross's Southern Mixture is typical, can be seeded at any time 
during the cooler months between November and March. These 
lawns may be maintained in the same manner that any northern lawn 
is maintained if an excessive amount of care in watering is devoted to 
them during the hot summer months. It is preferable to reseed each 
season. This type of lawn is prepared and seeded in a manner similar 
to the lawns of the north and will establish itself under normal condi- 
tions in a period ranging from four to six weeks. This seed is sown at 
the rate of one pound for each two hundred square feet of lawn area. 
The operation of seeding lawns with mixtures of northern seed 
adapted for southern use, and also with Italian rye, is the same as 
sowing seed for the development of lawns in the north. 

It is not advisable to try to develop Bermuda grass and St. Augustine 
grass lawns through seeding. A better lawn can be obtained with less 
difficulty by planting small clumps of Bermuda grass and St. Augustine 
grass (Plate VIII) in little drills ten inches or twelve inches apart or by 
staggering at intervals of twelve inches to eighteen inches. The greater 
the desire to have a close mat of Bermuda grass or St. Augustine grass 
the closer should the individual roots be planted. For small lawn 
areas, tees and greens on golf courses where the time is short in which 
to develop a good turf, these roots or clumps may be planted as close 
as six inches from each other. The usual method is to find a patch al- 
ready growing. The best method of gathering Bermuda grass is to dig 
underneath the roots with a grub axe or mattock and to gather up the 
roots with some type of a fork, such as a potato fork. As much soil as 
possible should be taken up with the roots, where the grass is 
naturally in rich, fertile soil; otherwise the soil can be shaken from 
the roots. The best method of handling these roots is to place the 
entire mass in potato sacks, especially if the source of gathering the 
grass is at a considerable distance from the place where the lawn is 
being made. Just previous to planting, the grass should be either 
torn apart leaving roots and tops on the same stem, or it should be 




Plate XI. The list of evergreens adapted to soil anil tn clmiatic cdiuli- 
tions of the middle-west, and valuable for low, refined, mass plantmgs is 
limited. The upper photograph shows an effect produced by the use of dwarf 
yew, Pfitzers and tamarisk-leaved junipers, Mugho pines and Japanese spurge 
edging. The lower photograph shows the effectiveness of masses of low, re- 
fined evergreens against massive architecture. (See page 114) 



LAWNS 63 

chopped into small sections. The first method is preferable. These 
sections of roots or small clumps are planted from three to six inches 
deep; more shallow if the soil is moist. Shallow planting should be 
adopted only where ideal conditions exist for keeping the soil moist. 
It requires approximately three cubic yards of these roots to plant 
one acre of lawn. If the roots are contained in two and one half 
bushel sacks it will require from one hundred and forty jto one hun- 
dred and fifty of these sacks filled with Bermuda grass roots to plant 
one acre of lawn, or approximately one sack for each two hundred and 
twenty-five square feet. These roots of Bermuda grass or St. Augustine 
grass should not be permitted to dry out, either while piled waiting for 
shipment or while in transit to the place where the lawn is being made. 
Injury from the drying out of the roots of these plants between the 
time they are dug and the time they are planted is not nearly so 
serious as the injury caused by heating or sweating while the plants 
are still in the sacks. If these plants are allowed to heat or sweat they 
immediately turn yellow, begin to rot and die. Any plants that have 
been subjected to this heating or sweating process should not be 
planted. If the lawn which is to be developed is large, then a simple 
method of planting these grasses is to spread them broadcast over the 
ground and to disc the roots in with a harrow, or to plow a shallow 
furrow and plant the roots in the furrows. The discing process has 
sometimes proved a failure. It requires approximately twice as much 
grass and roots as the planting in furrows, in order to get the same stand 
of grass. It is a process, however, which can well be adopted where an 
immediate even stand of grass is not essential. This is true because in 
the process of planting in furrows the grass can be more evenly dis- 
tributed at a shallow depth while in the discing process most of the 
grass finds itself at a considerable depth, thus requiring more time for 
the grass to reach the surface. 

The Italian rye lasts only during one season. The Bermuda grass 
and St. Augustine grass will make a lawn nearly as permanent as 
any northern lawn, provided the proper maintenance and attention 
in rolling and watering is given. Lawns of these types should be 
watered at least once in ten days or two weeks, at which intervals 
they should be thoroughly soaked. In order to maintain a Bermuda 
grass lawn in its best condition the lawn should go through the process 
of renovation every second or third year. This process consists of a 
discing, done for the purpose of cutting the roots and producing ne\y 



64 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

stoloniferous growth. The harrow should be permitted to cut this 
ground to a considerable depth, so as to encourage new root growth as 
well as a deeper root growth. Probably the average depth which the 
harrow cuts approximates from two to four inches. The ideal harrow 
for this purpose is known as the alfalfa renovator which is used for 
the purpose of cutting a deep furrow into the soil rather than 
disturbing the soil. 

If the lawn area is composed of a combination of Bermuda grass 
and Italian rye, or of a southern mixture of northern grass seed, it 
should be thoroughly soaked with water as often as once every two days. 
Superficial watering under conditions of hot sun and dry climate is 
more injurious to the southern lawn than a similar watering would be 
to a northern lawn. Where an excellent lawn turf is desired from 
November to April, it is much preferable to top dress the Bermuda 
grass foundation with a thin coating of muck, or rich soil, and to seed 
each fall with Italian rye as a filler. If a lawn of northern grasses is to be 
maintained from November to April, experience to date has taught us 
that the most practical method is that of reseeding the entire lawn 
area during the middle or latter part of October, or early November, 
rather than to expend the labour necessary to maintain a turf during 
the hot summer months when it is not used. 



CHAPTER VI 
BULB CULTURE 

Characteristics of Bulbs. A bulb is a large dormant bud, and is 
a condensed plant when dormant. Bulbs can develop only flowers 
which were formed within them before they were ripened. The 
dormant period of a bulb occurs in order to carry it over the dry or 
cold season. 

A good bulb must be fully developed, in good soil, and under good 
conditions. It must be kept from heating, sweating, or rotting in 
transit, and must not be kept out of the ground so long as to dry 
out to an injurious extent. When buying bulbs always take into 
consideration that cheap bulbs are invariably poor bulbs and that 
size alone does not count, but adds to the probability that the bulb is 
mature. Plump, solid bulbs give the best blooms, and if to this is 
added size, the bulb is ideal. 

There are two groups of bulbs : those which should be planted 
in the fall to produce flowers in the spring, such as tulips, narcissi, 
and crocuses, and those which should be planted in the spring to pro- 
duce flowers in the summer and early fall, such as gladioli. (In 
botanical science m the case of the gladiolus the term is "corm" rather 
than "bulb.") 

Time for Planting Bulbs. Nothing is gained by planting spring- 
flowering bulbs, such as tulips, narcissi, crocuses, hyacinths, squills, 
and Spanish irises, before September or October. The reason for 
planting, then, is that they keep better in the ground, and as they start 
to root in the fall they begin growth earlier in the spring. It is hardly 
possible to plant bulbs of this group early enough in the spring to secure 
any flowers the same season. These bulbs should be planted not 
earlier than six weeks before the hard frosts. Narcissi may be planted 
earlier, and it is preferable to plant crocuses early. Crocuses are 
usually planted in the lawn. An early bloom is desirable; therefore 
early September planting permits root growth in the fall and the 

6s 



66 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

flowers mature and pass before the grass requires cutting. Bulbs, in 
order to make some root growth in the fall, should not be planted very 
late. Autumn-flowering sorts, such as the colchicum and the saffron 
crocus, may be planted in August or early September, if well protected, 
but if planted in the spring should be set out after danger from frost is 
past. Narcissi and hyacinths are planted preferably early in October, 
while tulips, particularly the late-blooming, may wait till November. 
If the ground begins to freeze hard before the bulbs can be planted it 
should be kept warm b}' a litter of straw or leaves. Such a blanket 
spread over frozen ground early in the winter will enable the heat 
within the earth to thaw it out and permit quite late planting. If 
bulbs are planted late it is well to cover them with mulch at once in 
order that root growth may be made before the cold prevents it. If 
the bulbs are planted early in the fall, however, the mulch should be 
applied only after the ground has been frozen to a depth of several 
inches. Thus e.xcessive top growth will not start prematurely. 
Gladiolus bulbs should be planted in the spring after the fro sts are over. 
The period required for such bulbs to mature is about ninety days. 
Therefore, a succession of bloom can be obtained by planting at 
intervals of ten days or two weeks. Under expert care, in well-drained 
soils and with sufficient protection, many gladiolus bulbs can be 
planted in the fall and thereby insure a very much earlier bloom in the 
summer. This should at first be tried only with extreme caution, 
and the plants will need protection from spring frosts. 

Soil and Drainage Requirements. Bulbs should be planted in a 
well-drained, deep, rich soil in order to develop successfully. In wet 
soils put a handful of sand under each bulb to keep the water away 
from the immediate vicinity of the bulbs. In wet locations the beds 
should be raised. Hyacinths require a sandy soil and soon become 
diseased in heavy soils. Few lilies will succeed in limestone soil. 
Lilies require extra good drainage and rich soil. Some will do well in 
heavy soil, as the madonna lily and the tiger lily. It is best to sur- 
round lily bulbs with sand, and where drainage is not ideal, plant the 
bulbs on one side so that water may not collect in the heart of the bulb. 

Fertilizers for Bulbs. No fresh manure should ever touch a 
bulb, but well-rotted manure may be incorporated deep in the soil 
before planting with the best of results. The manure should be ac- 



BULB CULTURE 67 

cessible to the feeding roots but be kept away from the bulb. Do not 
use manure at all unless the bed is excavated to a depth that makes 
it possible to spade the manure in below the level on which the bulbs 
are to rest. Tulips are less apt to be injured by manure than are 
narcissi. For planting with a trowel or dibble, bone meal only should 
be used. Leaf mold and sand should be added to heavy soils. Bone 
meal used with bulbs tends to increase the size of the blooms. Liquid 
manure, added liberally when the plants are budding, has often given 
excellent results. To increase the development of new bulblets and 
especially of gladioli, a fertilizer containing a large percentage of 
potash is desirable. 

Depth for Planting Bulbs. Unless a bed of bulbs is planted at 
uniform depth they will not bloom uniformly. It is a good practice to 
excavate a bed to a given depth, place the bulbs as desired over the 
bottom, and then cover all to the same depth, thus making certain 
that they are evenly planted. The larger and stronger bulbs are, 
the deeper they may be planted. They may be planted deeper in 
sandy soil than in heavy clay soil. A general rule for planting depth is 
three times the average diameter of the bulb. Bulbs are frequently 
planted too shallow. For depths at which to plant bulbs, also 
distances apart, see "Bulb Table" (Plate IX, Page 46). When 
planted in holes made with a dibble, put loose dirt or sand in 
the bottom of the hole to avoid air space. Planting with trowel or 
dibble, however, should not be done where uniform show beds are 
desired. For lawns, bulbs may be dibbled in, but it is better to cut 
the sod and press back after planting. This is done in the fall when 
lawns are soft from rains. 

Mulching Bulbs. Bulbs lie dormant, to all appearances, over 
winter, and should be thoroughly mulched to insure that they do not 
start to grow in any unseasonable warm spell of weather, and also in 
order to prevent heaving. Mulch with straw or leaves to a depth of 
four mches to six inches, but do not add this mulch too early; wait 
till a fairly thick crust has been frozen over the ground. Lilies always 
require heavy protection and will succeed better in partial shade. 
Remove the mulch or litter in spring before warm weather and after 
damage from freezing is past. The coarse part of the mulch should 
be picked off carefully, care being taken not to injure the tops of 



68 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

the bulbs. The finer pieces of mulch may be worked into the soil, if 
the cultivating is done cautiously. 

Reproduction of Bulbs. Many bulbs, like the varieties of crocus 
and certain varieties of narcissi, will continue to multiply by devel- 
oping small bulblets and in that way produce a flower eflfect for 
a considerable number of years. Other bulbs, like certain varieties 
of the tulips and other varieties of narcissi, will have their energy 
sapped during the first one or two years. They will not reproduce 
bulblets and the result is that in order to continue the flower eflfect 
new bulbs must be purchased and planted in their place at the end 
of two or three years. Spanish iris and also the English iris will, 
under ideal conditions of soil and cultivation, continue to develop new 
bulbs and to multiply. For this reason they can be left in the ground 
during a number of years. In cutting flowers from bulbs it is quite 
necessary that some leaf surface should remain after the flower stalk 
has been removed. This leaf surface provides a "stomach" for the 
plant, in which digestive functions continue and new food is supplied to 
the bulb for the purpose of enlarging it and for the purpose of forming 
new bulblets. The gladiolus is the best example of bulbs which are 
reproduced in the average garden by new bulblets. Many varieties of 
gladioli, however, will not reproduce bulblets if the flowers are re- 
moved. None of the varieties of the gladiolus will produce new 
bulblets or make strong bulbs if, when the flowers are cut, all of the 
leaves are removed. 

Treatment of Bulbs After Flowering. Bulbs will not ripen if 
the tops are cut very soon after flowering. For best results, do not 
remove the tops before late June, or until leaves turn br^wn. When 
cutting flowers cut as few leaves as possible, and do not cut the entire 
stem of a lily. Never lift any bulbs, if it is possible to wait, before 
the tops are brown and limp. If bulbs must be removed to make way 
for other plants, take roots, top and all — some soil also with the roots. 
Heel-in, not too close together, in a shady spot until the tops commence 
to die. Autumn-flowering bulbs also should be allowed to ripen be- 
fore removal for winter storage. 

Oftentimes it becomes necessary in the renovating of the flower 
garden to dig up bulbs during the month of September or October. 
This is not desirable. Wherever it is foreseen that the soil in the 



BULB CULTURE 6g 

flower beds must be spaded over and refertilized in the fall, all bulbs 
should be removed in the late spring and stored in the usual manner 
in a cool, dry, dark place in the cellar or shed until time to plant them 
in the fall. If it is necessary to dig up bulbs in the fall after some root 
growth has started, then these bulbs should be taken up with some soil 
attached to the roots. They should be kept moist and replanted 
just as soon as practical. They should never be left to dry out because 
after the root growth has once started this drying out of the roots is 
likely to cause considerable injury to the bulbs. Only such perma- 
nent sorts as the tulips, especially the Darwins, narcissi, and the lilies 
will as a rule repay the trouble entailed. Hyacinths seldom can be 
depended upon for good bloom after the first display, in any event, 
and are thus hardly worth the trouble of replanting. In the eastern 
states and m the Middle West root growth in bulbs hardly ever starts 
before the latter part of September because the dry months of late 
summer keep the bulbs dormant until the fall rains. When replanting 
of bulbs is done after September isth, a good mulch of straw 
manure put on to keep the frost out of the ground as long as possible is 
essential. 

Of hHes, in the case of the foreign and the hybridized, it is practically 
useless, in general, to try to prolong life and to improve bloom from 
year to year by taking the bulbs up annually. Careful study and ex- 
perimenting are necessary to determine what kinds it is best to plant. 
The tiger lily, the speciosum, white and pink-dotted, and the madonna 
Uly are managed easily and the native lilies are apt to be permanent, if 
given their natural conditions. The one named last should be planted 
early in the autumn or even late in the summer, not more than two or 
three inches deep and in heavy or somewhat clayey soil. The bulbs 
of this and of the others-named here may be taken up every few years, 
as they increase in number, and be replanted in fresh soil. The bulbs 
of nearly all lilies except notably the madonna may be kept overwinter 
packed in moss or sand and stored in a cool place where they will not 
freeze. Then they can be successfully planted in the spring (Con- 
sult XXXIII-F, Page 253). 

Narcissi are best left undisturbed for several years. It is best to 
allow crocuses and early tulips to run out, unless the tulips are wanted 
for formal effects. All tulips, like hyacinths, yield most satisfactory 
bloom if they are taken up annually and replanted at the proper season. 
Only the larger bulbs should be planted, where uniformity of effect is 



70 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

desired, while the smaller ones may be planted apart by themselves 
to increase in size. Late tulips often do very well undisturbed for three, 
four, or five years. 

Crocuses, squills, and narcissi may be naturalized, especially if care is 
taken not to cut the tops too closely or too soon after blooming. This 
is one of the strong arguments in favour of planting crocus bulbs in 
September. The tops will have then matured before spring mowing 
begins. 

After the bulbs of any kind have been lifted, and the tops are dried, 
these tops should be carefully trimmed off and the bulbs stored in a 
dark, cool place until time for replanting. 

Plant bulbs in combinations as shown under "Bulbs." Learn 
which are late flowermg and which are early; also which varieties are 
tall and which are short. Choose hlies that are easy to grow and select 
varieties that have proved successful. 

Forcing Bulbs. Bulbs are grown extensively, both privately and 
commercially, for cut flowers, and for indoor use during the winter 
season. It is not hard to achieve success in forcing bulbs if two 
important rules are observed, namely: i. Procure the strongest 
and best bulbs possible, for good care will improve the quality of the 
flowers but not the quantity. The latter is always fixed within the 
bulb before it is purchased. 2. Perfect root development must be 
insured before the tops are permitted to start grovAth. 

The bulbs should be planted as soon as they are procurable, with late 
August and November as limits. The soil to use should be rich loam 
mixed with bone meal in a one to fifty proportion. If the soil is heavy 
add leaf mold or sand. It is better to avoid manure unless it is 
thoroughly rotted and pulverized. Five-inch pots may be used for 
larger bulbs, such as hyacinths; and a three or four-inch pot for one 
tulip or any bulb other than a hyacinth bulb of large size. It is better, 
however, to plant three or more bulbs in a larger pot, as soil moisture 
and temperature are more evenly maintained. When being forced for 
cut flowers, bulbs are planted in boxes or flats of a depth of three 
inches to four inches, with the bulbs set from one inch to two inches 
apart. This is a good way to grow bulbs for decoration also, since 
the flats can be covered with crepe paper, raffia mats, etc., when 
the flowers are in bloom. Broken pottery or charcoal should be put in 
the bottom of the pots for drainage. The soil is then sifted into the 



BULB CULTURE 71 

pot or flat, but not packed, and the bulb is so planted that the top 
is just below the surface. Do not press the bulbs down. After 
planting, water thoroughly to settle the soil firmly about the bulb and 
do not water again until the top growth starts unless the pots or flats 
are stored in a place where they will dry out. 

After being planted, the bulbs must be stored away in order that 
they may root properly, because rooting is the most important phase in 
successful bulb forcing. There are several methods of storage: 

1. Place the pots, flats, etc., in a cold frame or cold pit and cover with four inches 

of sand, rotted leaves, or ashes. Put on the sash when freezing weather 
arrives and open on pleasant days. 

2. Pots may be placed in a cool, dark cellar, and will keep well if the soil is kept 

moist but not wet. The danger here is from drying out if they are not 
watched at frequent intervals. 

3. A better method is to dig a trench one foot deep, put in three inches of ashes 

for drainage and to keep out worms; put in the pots and fill the trench with 
soil. During freezing weather cover with rough stable manure, leaves, or 
straw, to a depth of four inches. 

4. Pots may be set out and covered with eight inches or ten inches of leaves, filling 

in between the pots with soil to maintain moisture. 

Early bulbs, such as paper white narcissi and Roman hyacinths^ 
will root sufficiently in a period of six weeks. It is much better, how- 
ever, to leave bulbs in storage for a period of eight weeks. Spanish 
iris bulbs require a longer period for the formation of root growth 
than most of the other bulbs. This group is probably the most 
difficult group to force successfully. They should remain buried in 
the cold frame or in the pit, with all top growth retarded, until a 
complete root system is established. When ample roots are formed 
and about one inch of top growth has appeared, it is time to lift all 
bulbs and remove them to a semi-dark cellar where they may be kept 
in a cool temperature with little light to encourage the immediate 
development of stems and foliage. Avoid, at this period, direct sun- 
light. After a reasonable amount of growth is secured, place the pots 
where desired. Bulbs should be taken out of storage in relays to 
provide a succession of bloom. 

There are very few types of bulbs which are adapted for forcing in 
water. The paper white narcissus is best adapted to this type of 
forcing. A few of the other types of narcissus may be grown in this 
way, and occasionally early single tulips, Spanish irises, and crocuses 



72 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

can be successfully forced in water. The best method of forcing bulbs 
in water is that of setting each bulb in a shallow receptacle, partially 
filled with sand or coarse gravel, and keeping the water just even or 
slightly below the base of the bulb. These bulbs should then be kept 
in a dark, cool place for at least six weeks, and the receptacle should 
be frequently filled with water, which must always be clear and fresh. 
After the bulbs have commenced to root they may be treated in the 
same way as bulbs forced in soil. 

Bulbs which have been forced in any manner are of no value for 
forcing during the second year. Such bulbs should be allowed to 
ripen their foliage by setting the pots or flats in a cool, Hght place, and 
providing them with sufficient water to keep the bulb from drying 
out until the top growth has ripened and begins to die. These bulbs 
may then be set in the open ground at the proper time m the autumn 
and they will produce some flowers during the succeeding year. It is 
seldom that they will recover their vigour sufficiently to be of value 
for the purpose of forcing during the second or third year. 



CHAPTER VII 

MAINTENANCE* 

Requirements. The maintenance of trees, shrubs, and vines, since 
they are almost invariably planted where they are expected to re- 
main permanently, presents fewer difficulties than the care of perennial 
plantings, except where plants become diseased or subject to insect 
attack. Maintenance is confined mostly to cultivation, feeding, water- 
ing, pruning, and spraying. 

Trees — Tree Surgery. Pruning has been discussed in Chapter 
III, but there is an analogous practice often followed by "tree doc- 
tors," namely, the scraping of bark from trees, which should be 
touched on here. The main object and accomplishment of tree 
scraping seems to be the providing of work for "tree doctors" during 
dull seasons. The ultimate consequences to the tree are seldom 
beneficial, and often fatal. Instances have occurred where handsome 
shade trees were scraped down to the cambium by ignorant "doctors" 
and promptly died. The outer bark of trees is placed by nature as a 
protective covering and should not be removed, except in the case of 
those trees, such as hickory and plane tree, which naturally shed bark 
in large scales, and then only when these scales are harbouring insects 
which cannot be otherwise destroyed. The criticism of the so- 
called tree doctors is, however, not intended in the least to discredit 
really expert tree surgeons nor to discourage the employing of them. 
Quite to the contrary, it should be noted that these men can render 
most valuable service and that often a greatly prized tree can be 
saved for many years and its growth greatly improved by having it 
wisely cared for. The supporting of branches where a crotch might 
cause a splitting of large Hmbs is too often neglected. The removing of 
broken branches often prevents decay from entering into the heart of 
the tree. The taking out of crossing Hmbs often makes possible a 
symmetry of development that otherwise would never be realized. 

*See also Chapter III on "Pruning" and Chapter VIII on "Winter Protection and Mulching." 

73 



74 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

The proper filling of a cavity, after the wound has been scientifically 
dressed, will enable the cambium to begin to grow over the space 
and in time to cover it entirely with tissue that will greatly promote 
future growth of the tree as a whole while at the same time it removes a 
disfigurement. But before the welfare of valuable trees is entrusted 
to a man who professes to be able to restore them there should be valid 
assurance of his being in every way proficient and thoroughly compe- 
tent. 

Fertilizing. Shade trees seem to be less intelligently maintained 
than shrubbery. It is a matter of common knowledge that the roots 
of trees spread as far or farther than the tops, and that most of the 
feeding roots are at the extremities of the large roots. Many ex- 
periments have proved that the efi^ect of fertilizers is rarely felt very 
far in a lateral direction from the place where applied. Therefore, 
when feeding a shade tree do not bank a small pile of strawy manure 
around the trunk, as this encourages mice only. Spread the mulch 
well out over the whole area covered by the top of the tree, and neglect, 
if any, the area near the trunk. In case of shade or orchard trees 
which are not vigorous and which require feeding, recent experiments 
seem to show that applications of nitrate of soda and acid phosphate 
are effective. Quantities up to ten pounds for each tree may be used 
on old trees either spread evenly over the surface of the ground under- 
neath the tree or introduced beneath the sod in quantities of a handful 
deposited in the bottom of holes made by a crowbar at staggered m- 
tervals of eighteen inches. Bone meal is probably one of the best 
fertilizers to be used in preserving the vitality of shade trees. A 
successful method of applying bone meal is that of spreading it broad- 
cast over the lawn surrounding the base of the tree. This fertilizer, 
which is slow acting, should be applied during the winter or very early 
spring months, at the rate of at least twenty-five or fifty pounds for 
trees from ten to twelve inches in diameter, and at a proportionately 
less rate for trees of smaller diameter. This fertilizer should be applied 
at least once m two years. It is much better to apply a less amount 
and to fertilize the trees each year. 

Watering. Most of the deep-rooted shade trees, such as oaks, sel- 
dom need watering after they are once established, but it is often 
advisable to give shade trees a heavy watering in time of drought. 



MAINTENANCE 75 

Surface sprinkling is not desirable as it encourages surface rooting 
and seldom does much good. In case it is necessary to water a shade 
tree the best plan is to throw up a shallow embankment of earth around 
the tree just outside the spread of the branches if possible, and flood 
the enclosed area at intervals not more often than once in five or six 
days. Many trees and shrubs will be much benefited in time of 
drought if their tops are sprinkled at sundown on very hot days. 

Spraying. Spraying of plants as a scientific practice is, com- 
paratively speaking, a modern procedure, but the necessity for doing 
something to protect plants agamst insects and plant diseases has been 
understood since antiquity. In their writings the Greeks, Romans, 
and Hebrews noted the existence of rusts and mildews, and the plague 
of locusts is of Biblical record. 

Spraying is only one of several ways of protecting plants and among 
the others may be enumerated hand picking, fumigating, banding, 
burning, using fungous diseases as insecticides, crop rotation, soil 
sterilization and various other more or less practical methods. These 
other methods are important when understood and put into practice 
at the right moment and in the right way, but they are inexact com- 
pared to spraying and are seldom as efficient. Spraying, by which 
is meant the use of chemicals to poison or otherwise exterminate 
animal and vegetable parasites on plants, has been reduced very 
nearly to an exact science in this country, largely within the last 
century, and, while it is not the purpose here to go too deeply into this 
art, some broad rules may be laid down and some little understood 
points cleared up. 

Our Government and State Experiment Stations have been largely 
responsible for the rapid strides taken in this art in this country. 
They have issued many bulletins and spray calendars containing 
exact directions for combating all the known insect pests and plant 
diseases and they always stand ready to help any one who asks for it. 
Yet much of their help comes too late and much money is wasted 
each year with consequent disappointment, because a few simple 
principles are not clearly understood. Some of the overlooked factors 
which are not taken into account are as follows: (i) a spray mixture 
must be the correct one as, for example, it does no good to use poison 
upon an insect at a period in its life history when it does not eat; (2) 
the spray mixture must not injure the plants, or else the cure will be 



76 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

worse than the disease; (3) a thorough job must be done or else the 
whole job may have to be done over at too late a season to secure the 
best results; (4) the correct time must be picked or a rain storm 
may undo the whole work within a few hours; (5) the spray must 
stick to the plant long enough to be of some use, especially in the case 
of poisons. 

The various forms of sprays may be classified in four different ways: 
according to the season of spraying, the kind of chemicals used, the 
form in which the chemical is applied, and the kind of plants sprayed. 

Seasons for Spraying. The seasons for outdoor spraying are two: 
the summer or growing season, and the winter or dormant season. 
Summer sprays are invariably not applied so strong as winter sprays, 
because the bark on the new shoots as well as the leaves would be 
injured by a spray of a strength which would not only be entirely safe, 
but advisable to use when a plant was dormant. Dormant sprays are 
mostly confined to those applied for protection against vegetable 
parasites and those intended to destroy scale insects. Some useful 
winter work is often done in the destroying of egg masses- and cocoons 
by torches and the application of creosote or other strong paints by 
hand in small quantities; but this is not, strictly speaking, spraying. 
Summer spraying includes nearly all the methods used in the dormant 
season, with the spray made more or less dilute, dependent upon the 
exact season, as well as all the other forms of sprays. It should be 
noted that dormant spraying may be done at almost any time after the 
plants become dormant in the autumn and until they start growth in 
the spring; but it is not advisable to attempt to spray during freezing 
weather, nor too early in the winter, because in the latter event much 
of the benefits of the spray will be lost through the subsequent winter 
storms. If dormant spraying is delayed until nearly spring some 
beneficial results may be expected to extend into the summer, which 
would otherwise have been lost. Summer spraying, on the contrary, 
must usually be done at some precise time in order to secure the de- 
sired results, though this is not always strictly necessary. 

Spray Chemicals Used. The spray chemicals used are those which 
are best adapted to destroy the various forms of plant and animal 
parasites which it is desired to attack. Sometimes it is possible to 
combine two forms of chemicals in one spray and thus make one 



MAINTENANCE 77 

operation serve two purposes. Those sprays intended for leaf-eating 
insects are classified as poisonj and act like all poisons on being ab- 
sorbed into the digestive tract of the insect. It is generally necessary 
only to secure an even distribution of such a spray, which usually con- 
tains some form of arsenic, over the leaves of the plant. Those sprays 
intended for insects, such as the scale insects, which do not eat leaves 
or green parts of plants, are classified as contact insecticides. They kill 
by suffocating the insect or by their direct physical action upon the 
body of the insect. Thus they may also be useful against leaf-eating 
insects as well. These sprays may be merely some powder in a form 
so minute that it can enter the breathing apparatus of the insect or, 
in the case of the sucking insects, some oil which can be held in suspen- 
sion in water long enough to allow it to be sprayed over the plant. 
Other well-known contact insecticides are tobacco extract (nicotine 
sulphate) and various soaps, such as "whale oil" soap, made from fish 
oil. Sometimes poisonous gases are used for this purpose but that is, 
properly speaking, fumigation and not spraying. The third classifica- 
tion of sprays according to chemicals is that intended for fungous 
diseases, caused by low forms of vegetable parasites. Anthracnose, 
rust, mildew, canker, blight, and numerous other descriptive names 
are given to these diseases but they are nearly all treated aUke by the 
application of a fungicide which is generally some spray containing 
sulphur, either lime-sulphur mixture or Bordeaux mixture, which is a 
lime and copper sulphate mixture. The lime-sulphur mixture also 
acts as a contact insecticide in some cases. Fungicides should be 
applied very evenly over the whole of the plant from top to bottom 
and may be used much stronger during the dormant season than would 
be safe during the growing season. 

Forms of Sprays. The types of spray classified according to the 
form in which they are used are two. The most generally used form 
is the liquid, which generally means a chemical in suspension in water. 
Most sprays used in liquid form are chosen because of their ability to 
stay m suspension in water for a considerable length of time without 
either gomg into solution or gathering in lumps. This property of 
staying in suspension is a very valuable one, because it insures an even 
distribution of the spray material without an excessive amount of 
agitation to keep the mixture even. There is an increasing tendency 
to use the dust form of spray in which the chemicals are blown upon 



78 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

the plants in the form of a very fine powder which is largely dependent 
upon atmospheric moisture to make it stick to the plant. Dust sprays 
are used more often in a commercial way than by the average amateur 
when protecting ornamental plants, and this form of spray is not 
adapted to all the chemicals used, as, for instance, the oil and tobacco 
extract sprays. Sometimes poisons are mixed with bait and spread 
upon the ground near the plants to be protected, but this again is not 
spraying in the generally accepted sense of the word. 

Outfits for Spraying. There are various spraying outfits adapted to 
the various requirements dependent on the amount of work to be done 
and the physical difficulties to be overcome. Probably the best small 
outfit for the amateur is the knapsack sprayer which can be easily 
transported and even carried up into the tops of trees if necessary. 
This consists of an airtight receptacle for the spray mixture, which 
may be strapped to the back in such a way as to easily allow the 
pressure to be kept up with one hand while the nozzle attached to a 
short length of hose is manipulated in the other hand. The best 
knapsack sprayers have a copper tank holding about four gallons of 
liquid, a brass pump, and an air pressure chamber which insures a 
steady stream. They weigh fifty pounds when full of liquid. A 
cheaper pump of about the same type but small capacity is the bucket 
pump which can be used with any bucket or pail. This is harder to 
transport about and not so satisfactory in other ways as a knapsack 
sprayer. There are various types of hand-operated barrel outfits. 
Sometimes the barrel is mounted on large wheels so that it can be 
easily moved about with a pump installed in the head of the barrel, or 
sometimes a larger hand-operated pump is mounted on a cart beside a 
barrel or tank. Such an outfit will take care of all but the tallest 
trees and is about the largest suitable for amateur spraying. It has 
enough capacity to take care of considerable spraying and enough 
pressure to insure a fine spray reaching all parts of even large plants. 
For occasionally spraying small shrubs and such plants as perennials 
and annual flowering herbs a small hand force pump is a very con- 
venient one to have. These small pumps hold a quart of liquid in a 
glass or copper retainer. 

The power sprayers are operated either by a gearing or sprocket 
and chain connecting the wheels of the outfit to the pump or by a 
gasoline engine mounted on a platform together with a pump and 



2 5 E 





Plate XIII. Carefully selected and planted trees for avenue and street 
planting provide a uniform and a symmetrical effect together with the invit- 
ing shade, all of which are so essential to the standards of modern residential 
districts. (See page ii6, group X-A) 



MAINTENANCE 79 

tank. When many trees are to be sprayed a power sprayer should be 
used in order to secure a pressure which will enable the forcing of a fine 
spray to all parts of the tallest trees. For spraying tall trees an 
apparatus which works up a pressure of two hundred pounds is required 
so that the spray mixture may leave the nozzle in a solid stream and 
break into a mist as it nears the top of the tree. This is not required 
for spraying smaller trees or bushes or flowers where the requirement 
becomes that of producing a fine spray a few feet from the nozzle. 

Spray chemicals which are to be used in dust form are applied 
by means of so-called "powder guns" when large amounts are used on 
large trees. These are seldom useful on ornamental plants because 
of the usual proximity of houses or public streets and the consequent 
annoyance caused by clouds of obnoxious dust flying in the air. Many 
times, however, sulphur dust or hellebore can be applied by means of 
small hand force pumps adapted to using the dry dust, or this dust can 
be applied by sifting over the plants through holes punched in the con- 
tainer in which it is purchased. 

Formulas for Sprays. The formulas for some of the simpler 
insecticides and fungicides will be given here; but it is generally more 
advisable for the amateur to purchase his chemicals already mixed and 
in packages of a size adapted for his immediate requirements. 

Poisons: 

Paris green — aceto arsenite of copper. 
Arsenite of lime. 

Arsenate of lead; use 2 lbs. to 50 gal. water. 
Hellebore; use I ounce to I gallon of water. 
Poison Baits: 

For cutworms i lb. Paris green mixed with 10 lb. bran. 

For cutworms I lb. white arsenic and I lb. of sugar or molasses in 6 lbs. of bran. 

For grasshoppers use the arsenic, sugar, and bran mixture, placing i tablespoonful 

every 6 or 8 feet. 
For sow bugs or pill bugs use slices of potato dipped in a dry arsenical or a strong 

solution. 
Contact Insecticides: 

For plant lice use one lb. soap to 5 to 8 gallons water. 

For aphids and larva use nicotine sulphate at strength given on package or I lb. 

tobacco stems boiled in 2 gal. water (Dilution of nicotine sulphate is generally 

I pint to 50 gallons of water. The addition of 2 lbs. of soap is desirable). 
For scales use 2 gal. kerosene and i gal. sour milk. 
For plant lice use 2 gal. kerosene and I gal. soft water and j lb. soap. 



8o 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



For scales use in winter only a lime-sulphur spray containing about 20 lbs. of un- 
slaked lime and 15 lbs. of flowers of sulphur to 50 gal. of water. 

For red spider and plant mites use flowers of sulphur as a dry powder dusted over 
the trees when covered with dew or immediately after a rain. 

For hibernating insects use a miscible or soluble oil at the rate of I part of oil to 
12 or 15 parts of water. 
Fungicides: 

Bordeaux mixture; 5 lbs. copper sulphate and 5 lbs. lime in 50 gal. water. 

Ammoniacal copper carbonate; 6 oz. copper carbonate and 3 pts. ammonia in 
50 gal. of water. 

Copper sulphate is used, with lime to colour it. For killing fungi on dormant plants. 

Lime sulphur mixture also acts as a fungicide. 



Symptoms and Treatments. The following list shows in parallel 
columns (i) the symptoms which appear upon diseased plants or those 
with insect pests, (2) the cause and lastly (3) the indicated treatment. 



Symptom 


Cause 


Treatment 


Scab 


Fungus 




Bordeaux or lime-sulphur 


Leaf spot 


Fungus 




Bordeaux, also gather and 
burn diseased leaves 


Leaf curl 


Leaf curl fungus 


Lime-sulphur or Bordeaux 


Canker 


Freezing or rot fungus 


Cut out and destroy dis- 








eased parts 


Rust 


Rust fungus 




Bordeaux, also cut out cedar 
apples 


Wilt 


Fungus 




Bordeaux 


Twig blight 


Fungus 




Lime-sulphur, also cut out 
and burn diseased parts 


Mildews 


Mildew fungus 


Sulphur dust, also burn 








leaves in autumn 


Fruit rot 


Anthracnose 


fungus 


Bordeaux 


Smut 


Smut fungus 




Bordeaux 


Tip burn (leaves) 


Too much 


water fol- 


Watch soil conditions 




lowed by 


hot weather 




Scald 


Freezing and thawing or 


Protect from winter sun and 




fungus 




use Bordeaux 


Gum excretion 


Borers 




Protective wash and dig out 
borers 


Sawdust excretion 


Borers 




Protective wash 


Leaf discolouration of 


Red spider 




Dry sulphur dust 


conifers 








Bark discolouration 


Scales 




Lime-sulphur or kerosene 
emulsion 


Leaf curling 


Aphids 




Nicotine sulphate or soapsuds 


Wilt 


Cut worms 




Paris green in molasses in 
bran 



MAINTENANCE 



8i 



Symptom 


Cause 


Treatment 


Defoliation 

Defoliation 
Defoliation 
Defoliation 

Leaf discolouration of rho- 
dodendrons 


Bag worms or other 
caterpillars 

Rose slugs 
Leaf beetles 
Thrips 
Lace-wing fly 


Arsenate of lead and burn 
winter nests and egg 
masses 

Arsenate of lead 
Arsenate of lead 
Nicotine sulphate 
Soap solution, I bar to 20 
gallons. 



SPRAYING DON'TS 

Don't wait for rose pests — spray first. 

Don't destroy toads or birds; they save you lots of trouble with insects. 

Don't mix spray materials unless you are a chemist. 

Don't use liquid sprays without keeping a uniform solution by means of 

agitating the liquid. 
Don't whitewash your tree trunks; bugs are not afraid of whitewash. 
Don't band tree trunks with anything but a preparation and at a time 

approved by an entomologist. 
Don't spray exhibition plants or flowers with a discolouring spray. 
Don't neglect to watch the wind when spraying; it may blow poison 

into someone's face and eyes or over a painted or varnished surface 

or scatter poison over food crops, like lettuce. 
Don't dust your evergreens, coniferous or broad-leaved, with lime; 

the result will be more serious than any disease. 
Don't be bashful about asking your State Experiment Station for help. 



Shrubs — Cultivation. The cultivation of shrubs is rather over- 
done than underdone. The natural habitat of most woody plants 
includes a ground covering of leaves, forest mold, or herbaceous plants 
and grass; thus they are protected summer and winter against drought 
and cold. It is not often possible to reproduce such conditions in a 
made border; but the tendency should be in that direction. While a 
certain amount of cultivation at first in a shrub border is desirable, 
especially in new ground, most shrub borders would benefit by being 
permanently mulched, or at least by not being dug over too deeply 
after the roots of the shrubs have become established. The use of 



82 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

ground covers among shrubbery is excellent, and they are especially 
valuable toward the front of the border. When properly mulched and 
cared for, shrubbery will seldom need watering after the first year or 
two, but an occasional good soaking during the drought of summer will 
not come amiss. It is quite essential, at intervals of every two or three 
years, that the deciduous shrub borders should be carefully gone over 
and that the ground around the individual shrubs should be thoroughly 
loosened wherever it is possible to do so without disturbing the root 
system. At such times considerable fertilizer consisting of well- 
rotted manure or a heavy application of bone meal should be applied. 
No quick-acting fertilizer such as sheep manure, dried blood, or nitrate 
of soda is desirable. In the successful maintenance of the shrub border 
the object of supplying fertilizer to that border is not one of forcing 
growth but one of maintaining normal growth. 

In the proper maintenance of a shrub border the crowding and dead 
wood should be removed each year. It often becomes necessary to 
transplant to other locations and to rearrange some plants where they 
are becoming too thick in the border plantation, in order to give the 
remainder of the plants an opportunity to develop normally. We 
often see shrub plantations which are "leggy." This can be overcome 
by a proper pruning each year, consisting of the removal, to a height of 
twelve or fifteen inches above the ground, of at least one-fourth of the 
old wood (See Plate No. V). This will encourage new growth from 
the base of the shrub and, where refined mass effects are desired, this 
method of pruning will eliminate much of the broken and unkept ap- 
pearance of many plantations. There are instances in which the ex- 
tremely old and unkept effect is more to be desired, and this process 
of pruning cannot be applied. 

Rhododendrons. Rhododendrons, other broad-leaved evergreens, 
and conifers should be thoroughly watered during the late fall and 
never be allowed to freeze for the winter in a dry condition. This is 
more often the cause of winter-killing than is severe cold. The reason 
why these plants are more susceptible to injury on this account is be- 
cause they hold their leaves during the winter months and thus 
transpiration continues to some degree, and if the plant is not well 
filled with moisture, a drying-out process occurs and the plant is devit- 
alized. Because of the mass of fine, hairlike roots which find their way 
through the earth near the surface of the ground, rhododendrons can- 



MAINTENANCE 83 

not endure any considerable dry period or any cultivation of the sur- 
face of the ground, in the same manner as that adopted in caring for 
deciduous shrubs and the deeper-rooted evergreens. 

Rhododendrons, Fertilizer For. Rhododendrons and other 
ericaceous plants should not be fertilized with manure until well 
established. In the late fall after the rhododendrons have been 
estabHshed one year they may be fertilized by the appHcationof a two- 
inch layer of well-rotted stable manure over the top of the mulch. 
This should be repeated each year. Chemical fertilizers are seldom 
or never used on ericaceous plants. Bone meal should never be 
used as its bone phosphate of lime is sure to react upon the soil acidity 
so essential to the successful culture of rhododendrons and allied plants. 
The use of bone meal has been known to be fatal to these plants. 
Epsom salt has been recommended as a fertilizer for rhododendrons, 
but this is probably a mistake and in any event a doubtful procedure 
because of the chemical nature of this material. As epsom salt is 
iiilhagnesium sulphate and has been used in England to top-dress clover 
as a substitute for lime, it probably would react in the soil similar to 
lime and would be injurious to all ericaceous plants. 

Evergreens. The greatest problem in the maintenance of ever- 
greens is that of keeping them in a healthy and vigorous condition of 
growth. There are certain locations where it is essential to use ever- 
greens in order to produce a desired effect. Oftentimes these locations 
are surrounded by a city environment with a dust-laden and smoky 
atmosphere which is one of the more injurious factors in the growing of 
evergreens. If such plants are to be maintained in a healthy con- 
dition they should never be watered on the leaves during the heat 
of the day when the sun is shining. They should, however, be 
sprayed with a strong force of water at intervals not less often than 
once each week in order to wash from the surface of the leaves the 
accumulated dust which if left causes a devitalized condition of the 
entire plant. 

Vines. Vines require but little attention. Wood should be 
cut back severely in the spring on vines with ornamental fruit. Re- 
move old canes and check any growth that becomes too rank. Shoots 
that are too long or spoil the general effect should be cut. All climbers 



84 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

must be furnished with some kind of support and care should be taken 
to fasten loose ends. 

Usually vines are planted close to foundations. It must be re- 
membered that most foundations are carefully provided with a line of 
drainage on the outside of the wall in order to readily care for any 
surface water that seeps into the soil and then later seeps through the 
wall if not promptly carried away. For this reason, probably, vines 
require more attention than most other plants in order to keep them 
supplied with a quantity of water necessary to their normal develop- 
ment. They should also be very frequently fertilized, preferably with 
bone meal or well-rotted manure. Well-rotted cow maaure is an ideal 
fertilizer for most vines. 

Lawns — Fertilizing. The maintenance of lawns consists of 
fertilizing, rolling, watering, and mowing in order to keep the turf in 
such condition that few if any weeds will have an opportunity to flour- 
ish. Fertilizing of a lawn is perhaps one of the most important 
items of its maintenance, for the reason that few lawns are so well 
prepared when first made that they do not begin to need additional 
food material during the second or third year after making. It is 
difficult to convince those who are developing lawns for the first time 
that money expended in the proper preparation and fertilization of a 
good depth of topsoil will do away with the subsequent annual expense 
necessary to keep a lawn, not correctly prepared when originally made, 
in the best condition. A good turf requires food in the form of ferti- 
lizer, and this food supply must either be provided at the time the lawn 
is made or it must be constantly applied from year to year afterward 
(See Page 53). Much thought, labour, and money are wasted in putting 
a mulch on lawns, only to come back later and cast it away again. 
It may be wise to mulch a lawn in the fall, but there is more than an 
even chance that if the area is covered with fresh manure, weeds will be 
introduced and this will more than offset any real value derived from 
the mulch. The use of manure as a top-dressing for lawns should be 
discouraged unless used in the form of a completely decomposed compost. 
A thick coat of manure is apt to stifle the grass. Lawns should never 
be mulched with manure during the spring unless with thoroughly 
rotted manure applied not later than early March. All mulching 
or top-dressing should be done preferably in the fall so that the weed 
seeds are killed to a great extent during the winter. It is practically 



MAINTENANCE 85 

useless to apply the manure on frozen ground, for an ensuing rain or 
melting of the snow may dissolve and carry away either in solution or 
suspension most of the fertilizing ingredients. 

If a lawn is not mowed too late in the season and is not cleaned 
too completely of the mowed grass, it will generally provide its own 
mulch for the winter very satisfactorily. 

Bone meal alone, especiilly if not very finely ground, may be used 
in the late fall at the rate of five hundred pounds an acre, or twelve 
pounds to 1,000 square feet every year. Bone meal seems to be the 
best phosphoric acid carrier for lawns. Nitrate of soda is the quickest- 
acting fertilizer and may be used broadcast in quantities up to five hun- 
dred pounds an acre each year. This quantity must be divided among 
two or three separate applications. Both blue grass and clover will 
be encouraged by the use of air-slaked lime as a winter dressing every 
four or five years, at the rate of one ton an acre. Chemical fertilizers 
are best applied in the spring as a top-dressing and about five hundred 
pounds an acre should be applied. A mixture of 5% nitrogen, 6% avail- 
able phosphoric acid, and 8% potash will produce good results. Equal 
parts of finely ground bone meal and sifted wood ashes at the rate of 
one ton an acre make a good spring top-dressing. Kiln-dried sheep ma- 
nure may be used at the rate of one ton an acre or fifty pounds to 1,000 
square feet, with excellent results, with the assurance that it will not 
bring in weed seeds. It should be applied in early spring for the 
best results. 

Watering Lawns. A properly prepared lawn will not require much 
watering unless the season is unusually dry or near-by trees are robbing 
the grass roots. In any event, a few thorough soakings are much more 
valuable than many superficial sprinklings. The effect of a good 
thorough soaking is not only more lasting in itself, but also encourages 
deep rootmg of the grass, which, in turn, tends to remove the necessity 
for watering and also opens up new stores of plant food to the grass 
roots. It is better to avoid all spray nozzles and whirligig fountains, 
for, however handsome the effects they may produce in the sunlight, 
they do not insure a thorough soaking. It does not matter nearly so 
much at what time of the day a lawn is wet as it does how thoroughly 
the watering is done. Watering done in the middle of a hot, sunny day, 
however, is made less effective by reason of evaporation. It also in- 
volves some scorching or cooking of the blades of grass as the sun shines 



86 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

through the globules or film of moisture upon them. Do not hasten to 
sprinkle a lawn at the first approach of warm weather as this will dis- 
courage the tendency of the grass roots to go deeper in search of the 
ground water. If the lawn shows signs later in the season of being in 
distress, give it a thorough soaking. An effective watering should soak 
the ground to a depth of five or six inches. 

Rolling and Weeding Lawns. Rolling of lawns is not resorted to 
nearly as much as formerly. Probably one good, thorough rolling in 
the early spring is beneficial, especially on clay land which may have 
heaved in spots during the winter. Except for this, rolling is of doubt- 
ful value, especially because during dry weather it causes loss of 
moisture through transpiration. Weeds in the lawn indicate that the 
grass is not properly cared for or has been carelessly seeded. Weeds 
may appear in a new lawn, especially if manure has been used in the 
preparation. It is not necessary to pull out the annuals, for if the turf 
is cut they will not seed themselves. Remove only the perennials, such 
as burdock and plantain. Tread on the holes thus left and fill them 
with compost and seed. It is better to weed in the fall, as in the 
spring crab grass is apt to get into bare spots. Perennial weeds should 
be cut out with a knife, securmg as much of the roots as possible; or 
a drop or two of gasoline will generally kill the plants. Moss and 
sorrel in a lawn indicate a sour soil needing liberal applications of air- 
slaked lime. Crab grass causes considerable trouble if once established 
and care should be taken to remove all portions of the roots. 

Enemies to Lawns. Weeds are the most important enemies to 
lawns. The best way to eradicate weeds in a lawn that is otherwise 
worth saving is to dig them out, fill the holes with good topsoil, and sow 
fresh seed. Spraying with chemicals and patent remedies has never 
proved effective. Angle worms or fishworms may be destroyed by the 
following spray : Dissolve in two gallons of boiling water one pound of 
common salt and add one pound of corrosive sublimate. Dilute the 
above with four gallons of water to make a stock solution. One pmt 
of the stock solution should be added to sixteen gallons of water and 
sprayed over the lawn. Army worms may be destroyed while young by 
a spray made by dissolving three pounds of arsenate of lead in fifty 
gallons of water. This should be sprayed over the lawn until it is 
white. While white grubs are among the grass roots in late July in 



MAINTENANCE 87 

preparation to emerge as adult beetles they may be crushed by roUing 
the lawn with a ten-ton roller, but failing this heroic treatment, there 
seems to be no simpler remedy. 

Mowing Lawns. Mowing of lawns should be governed by the use 
to which the lawn is to be put. Mowing should not be very frequent 
in hot weather nor very long neglected at seasons when the grass is 
growing rapidly. Clipping should cease before the grass stops grow- 
ing in the autumn, so that a long growth may be left on the lawn over 
winter. A portion of the clippings should be left on a lawn to act as a 
mulch, especially if the grass is cut often. Enough grass leaves 
must be left on each plant so that it can maintain its growth, but on 
the other hand, growth must not be carried to the point of seed pro- 
duction, which, more than anything else, tends to weaken the vitality 
of a plant. About two inches is the height most often recommended 
for grass. It is best to leave mower knives set high and mow more 
frequently rather than to allow grass to grow high and then cut it low 
and thus remove too large a portion of the leaf surface of the plant, and 
also expose the soil to the direct rays of the sun. When a lawn becomes 
run down it is generally better to remake it entirely, instead of wasting 
money on patching. It is well to consider that if the original grass 
could not succeed on the soil, new grass will certainly fail. 

Perennials — Winter Protection. In general, the better es- 
tablished a perennial is, the less winter protection it requires. How- 
ever, even though plants would winter over safely if uncovered, they 
should be protected from the heaving which follows alternate thawing 
and freezing. In the case of perennials planted in the autumn this is 
exceedingly important for the first winter. Snow is a good protective 
covering, but it is rarely that plants will be so covered during the entire 
winter. It is accordingly advisable to apply a mulch. 

Mulching in the fall provides an opportunity for fertilizing as well as 
protection, especially if good straw manure is used. Straw or corn- 
stalks provide excellent mulch for perennials but both encourage mice. 
These pests may be killed by poisoned wheat or by pouring carbon 
bisulphide down their burrows. Where mice are especially trouble- 
some, a compost of leaves, sawdust, lawn takings, etc., should be used, 
inasmuch as heavy litter or one containing grain is ideal for attracting 
animals. Perennials such as liHes, whose crowns are completely under- 
ground, require the greatest protection. Perennials such as primroses 



88 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

and foxgloves, which carry over some fleshy foliage, must be covered 
lightly, if at all, to prevent rotting of the crowns. It is desirable to 
leave dead tops, stalks, etc., on the plants until spring. The tops will 
protect the plants to some extent over winter and there is also less 
danger to the plant from premature removal of tops in the fall before 
the latter are entirely dead. Cultivation should cease in the fall after 
danger from weed seeds maturing is past. This will discourage too 
late growth, and any weeds will serve as a protective covering. 

It is important that mulch for perennial gardens should not be 
applied too early. There is a great danger in applying a litter of straw 
manure or leaves before the warm weather is fully over, and thus 
encouraging top growth which either rots during the winter or is frozen. 
Mulch should not be applied until after the first heavy frosts, and 
preferably not until the ground is slightly frozen in the early winter. 
The tufted pansy, primrose, and Shasta daisy are very susceptible to 
injury from a heavy mulch. 

Mulch should not be removed until danger from extreme weather is 
past. The time for removal is governed by local conditions. The 
mulch should be removed gradually — not all at once — and extreme 
care should be used m removal m order not to mjure or destroy smaller 
plants or plants which appear late in the spring. Any mulch has a 
tendency to delay the spring development of the roots. It should be 
removed, however, before the ground has become so warm that root 
growth has become definitely encouraged and the sprouts which are 
starting to grow are becoming weak and spindly. 

Dividing Perennials, and Renovating Beds. There are some 
perennials which are benefited by being allowed to remain permanently 
in one place, such as peonies, gas plants, and bleeding-heart, but the 
vast majority of plants are not likely to improve unless taken up from 
time to time, divided, and reset. This is especially true of plants like 
the iris and the sneeze-weed which spread underground and form mats, 
soon exhaust soil fertility, and engage in a severe struggle which ham- 
pers their ornamental development. Likewise, crowns of perennials 
which give the most desirable flowers bloom only two or three seasons 
and then die. There is also the necessity for renewing the biennials 
such as foxgloves, canterbury bells, hollyhocks, and sweet williams. 
Some perennials such as oriental poppies should not be moved but 
may be divided with a sharp trowel. The general practice is to 



MAINTENANCE 89 

lift and divide the roots of perennials every two or three years. 
Spreading and shallow-rooted perennials will thrive and flower much 
better if divided and transplanted each year. If this "dividing" is not 
undertaken each year the "clumps" become crowded and the individu- 
al flowering stocks do not have an opportunity to develop normally. 
The result is that many dead stocks remain in the middle of the clump 
and a much inferior type of flower is produced. 

Illustrations of this group of perennials which should be divided 
each season and preferably during the early spring before growth 
begins are the hardy asters, the sneeze-weed, yellow marguerite, ball 
of snow, English daisy, and the pompom chrysanthemum. If these 
plants are not taken up, divided, and replanted in good rich soil, the 
plants durmg the succeeding year will not produce large flowering heads, 
neither will they produce the strong, vigorous growth which they are 
accustomed to produce. Most of these plants are vigorous growers and 
heavy feeders and it does not take them long to sap from the soil much 
of the good food matter which is so necessary to their normal growth. 

The plume poppy, Shasta daisy, and yellow marguerite will be 
surrounded by a large number of young plants, which spread out and 
surround the parent plant, with the result that a number of inferior 
plants occupy the space which should be occupied by only a few fine, 
thrifty specimens, providing the parent plants are not divided and 
transplanted each year. With the yellow marguerite especially, it is 
much better to discard the old roots and to preserve in the dividing only 
those roots which are the result of the previous year's development as 
off"shoots from the parent plant. Many times the seedlings that 
spring up around these plants are equally as preferable if trans- 
planted and given ample space to develop normally. 

In the group of plants which should be divided at least every two 
years are included a few of the more vigorous types of the garden phlox 
together with the boltonia and the bee-balm. 

There is a group of perennials which should be divided on the 
average of once every three years. They will not be benefited through 
the process of being divided at more frequent intervals. This list 
includes the common garden phlox, painted daisy, most types of the 
larkspur, the lily-of-the-valley, a few asters, and the hardy sun-flowers. 
The common impression with reference to the lily-of-the-valley is that 
it should not be divided or transplanted after the time of transplanting 
the original plants. Those persons who have had an intimate acquain- 



90 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

tance with the flowering habits of this plant state that It should be 
divided at least once every three years if an abundance of large blooms 
is to be obtained. 

Such plants as the larkspur should be divided with great care every 
three or four years and each division of this plant should be left with 
a good crown attached to which is a quantity of good fibrous root 
growth. 

The greatest success in dividing perennials will be attained with 
those plants whose roots can be readily pulled apart with no severe 
ruptures. Those plants which have heavy roots like the larkspur and 
some of the irises should be subdivided with much greater care. 
Biennials will renew themselves by seeding if the soil is not disturbed 
around them to any great extent. A few perennials such as the yellow 
marguerite and some of the hardy asters will also renew themselves 
each year by seeds dropped from the parent plant. Every perennial 
garden is benefited by a thorough spading over at least once in three 
years. When a garden is filled with perennials the spading does not in 
general reach deep into the soil, nor does it cover the entire area. The 
best soil for these plants is one which is friable and not too compact. 
This is the reason for spading every two or three years. 

Plants may be dug up and separated by hand or thinned out in the 
beds by cutting with a clean, sharp spade or trowel and removing the 
excess plants. Replanting should be done in fresh soil if possible, or 
some new soil and bone meal would better be worked in. Care should 
be taken in the replanting that the crown of the plant is not smothered. 
It is equally fatal to the plant to be set too low or too high. Divide 
and replant in the spring those fall-blooming sorts which continue in 
full bloom until late in the season, such as chrysanthemums and ane- 
mones, and all fleshy-rooted plants except the peony. (For the peony 
and the iris in particular, and for planting perennials in general see 
Pages 39 and 47.) The best time of the year for lifting and separating 
perennials in general is probably the fall. The early-flowering peren- 
nials like some of the irises and the leopard's bane should give the best 
result by dividing and transplanting shortly after they have completed 
their flowering period. One objection to fall planting, however, is 
that the smaller plants heave out if planted too late or are apt to 
get lost during mulching or in the "cleaning up" work of the spring. 
Plants with heavy tops or fleshy roots in general, except the iris and the 
peony, are more liable to rot if planted in the fall. If the planting of 



MAINTENANCE 91 

them is done at this season it should be begun in the latter part of 
August, if possible. The regular mulching, so necessary for all plants 
set in the autumn, should not be forgotten when the winter comes on. 
During the summer a fine mulch of some sort may be kept on a per- 
ennial border to good advantage as it prevents loss of moisture, saves 
labour otherwise necessary in cultivating, stops spattering of mud over 
the leaves of smaller plants, and prevents baking of the soil after rains. 

Fertilizing Perennials and Annuals. Perennials need a great 
deal of food and should have plant food to restore soil fertihty. Such 
heavy feeders as phloxes and peonies should receive applications of 
bone meal and Hquid manure. Such applications when the plants are 
in bud will frequently improve the size and quality of the flowers. 
Manure for fall mulching will also enrich the plants. The finer part 
can be worked into the beds during the spring, but care must be taken 
not to injure or destroy roots or smaller plants. Peonies and irises in 
general, like all plants with thick, fleshy roots or rootstocks, are sick- 
ened by manure. Bone meal is perfectly safe to use and is in every 
way the best fertilizer for them. On the other hand, the Japanese 
irises, with their fibrous roots, revel in cow manure. They, like iris 
longipetala, are indiflPerent to lime which to all other moisture-loving 
irises, with the exception of the spuria group, is objectionable. 

Beds must be kept entirely free from weeds until fall. Where 
mulch is not maintained around the plants cultivation should be kept 
up, especially after a rain, to prevent evaporation. 

In the development of the annual flower garden the soil should be 
thoroughly spaded over each spring and well pulverized. A good 
coating of well-rotted manure should be thoroughly spaded into the soil 
to a depth of four inches to eight inches. During the flowering season 
of these plants it may become necessary, on account of the lack of suf- 
ficient food, to supply some quick-acting fertilizer such as sheep 
manure or dried blood which will force their growth and assist greatly 
in developing larger and more abundant flowers. A slight sprinkling 
of sheep manure or dried blood around each of the plants will be 
sufficient. It may be advisable to repeat this fertilizing operation 
at intervals of three or four weeks during the flowering season. Nitrate 
of soda is sometimes used as a plant stimulant. It is much more dan- 
gerous, however, than either sheep manure or dried blood because an 
overdose is very apt to burn and injure the plants. 



92 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

Watering of Perennials. Watering must be attended to, es- 
pecially during dry spells. One good soaking a week is much more 
valuable to plants than many light sprinklings which do not wet the 
soil to any appreciable depth. On sandy and very light soils it will be 
necessary to water thoroughly every day or every second day during the 
dryest part of the season. Where it is not possible to water all the 
plants thoroughly at one time, divide the beds into sections and water 
the various sections in rotation. Watering in the later afternoon or 
evening hours has a more lasting effect than during the hotter portion 
of the day. Watering can be overdone as it can be carried to the 
point where the soil becomes water-logged and will consequently 
sour. Too much superficial watering of open-ground plants induces 
surface rooting which is not satisfactory, as such plants do not 
have access to large stores of food, and consequently cannot with- 
stand drought successfully. Transplanted perennials should be wat- 
ered thoroughly and left alone a few days till they become somewhat 
established. 

The statement is sometimes made that water from wells is too cold 
to be suited for watering plants, and also that such water often lacks 
chemicals which serve as plant food. On the contrary, successful 
gardeners often water plants at midday on hot summer days in order 
to gain the cooling effect of the water when it is most needed. It is 
also believed by some experienced observers that water falling on the 
soil reaches the soil temperature very quickly after being absorbed and 
in all but a negligible number of instances, before it reaches the roots 
of plants. With regard to the question of the amount of plant food 
contained in water from a deep-driven well as compared to the 
amount found in surface water such as that flowing in a creek or river 
there seems to be little reason to think that water from wells is lack- 
ing in plant food to such an extent as to make it less valuable than 
surface water. It is now agreed that surface water contains more solid 
matter in suspension while subterranean water has its load of solid mat- 
ter in solution. Therefore the plant food which occurs in water from a 
driven well differs from the plant food found in river water merely in 
being more likely to occur in solution rather than in suspension. The 
water which is taken from artesian wells is not always sterile and 
often contains nitrates in large quantities due to the reduction of the 
nitrates which occur in deep layers in the soil. When this water is 
used for irrigating the surface layer of the soil, the nitrifying bacteria 



MAINTENANCE 93 

change the nitrites back to nitrates. In regions rich in humus, ground 
water often contains organic as well as inorganic matter. Well water 
may and often does contain plant food which is very valuable in the 
form of nitrates or ammonia. 

Removing Seed Pods and General Care. Summer care of 
perennials consists of removing seed stems and dead flowers. It is 
extremely important to remove dead flowers at once, as formation of 
seeds weakens a plant. And with many plants, such as the larkspur 
and foxglove, new flowers also will be produced if the old flowers are 
removed immediately after blooming. There is a considerable differ- 
ence of opinion concerning the general maintenance of the larkspur. 
Some persons think that the stock of this plant should be cut down to a 
height of four inches to six inches immediately after flowering, other 
persons feel that it should not be cut to a height of less than twelve 
inches to fifteen inches. The author's personal experience has been 
that if these plants are cut back immediately after flowering to a height 
of four inches to six inches new shoots will be developed which will not 
attain the height of the original plant but will develop excellent flowers 
during the latter part of September. Support tall-growing plants with 
neat stakes. In this class are asters, boltonias, and larkspurs. Do not 
delay the staking until the plants have begun to fall over. Bare 
spaces among plants in a border should be filled with annuals, if 
necessary, as this will not only improve the general effect but help 
also to keep the ground shaded and cool, and provide bright spots of 
colour after the first flush of bloom among the perennials is over. 
Bare spaces may be filled by bringing in plants from a reserve garden 
where they may be held in pots. New varieties of perennials and 
biennials should be propagated and transplanted to the bed or border 
to replace plants that run out or begin to fail. Seedlings will spring 
up from many plants, such as anemones, marguerites, hollyhocks, and 
campanulas, when seed pods are allowed to form. Such plants can be 
used to fill up open spaces. 

Diseases of Perennials and Control. Perennials, taken as a 
class, under fairly favourable conditions are not particularly susceptible 
to disease. In general, when diseases attack perennial plants, the 
safest thing to do is to throw them away. Aphis and minor insect 
troubles may be easily controlled by spraying. 



94 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

The following plants, if attacked by leaf spots or mildews, may be 
saved by fungicides (See Page •]']) : 

Alyssum (mildew). 

Anemone (root decay and rust). Destroy affected roots. 

Aquilegia (mildew and black spot). 

Campanula (red and brown rust). Keep away from pinus rigida. 

Chrysanthemum (leaf spot or powdery mildew). If rusted, plants should be 

destroyed. 
Convallaria (stem rot). Burn affected plants. 
Coreopsis (mildew). 

Delphinium (black spot on leaves). Remove and burn. 
Ferns (tip blight). 

Hollyhock (leaf spot). If attacked by rust or anthracnose destroy the plants. 
Iberis (club root). Use lime in soil. 
Papaver (mildew). 

Peony (stem rot, leaf spot, botyrides). 
Phlox (leaf spot and powdery mildew, and stem canker). 
Sedum (leaf spot). 
Thalictrum (red spot). 
Veronica (leaf disease), (leaf spot). 
Violets (leaf spot and leaf blight). 

Root rot of violets and nematodes on the roots require soil treatment 
and sterilization. 

Bulb spot of irises should be treated by soaking the bulbs for one 
hour in formalin solution, consisting of one ounce in two gallons of 
water. Root rot which is found usually only in the midst of an old 
matted clump is overcome by breaking the rhizomes from the clump, 
cutting off the decay, and planting in new soil with a watering of 
potassium permanganate, only enough to make the water of light pink 
colour. 

Maintenance of Various Kinds of Gardens. No attempt should 
be made to develop a garden of any kind until a careful analysis has 
first been made concerning the probable cost for future maintenance. 
This applies equally as well to the extensive estate as it does to the 
detailed flower garden and to the average residence property. Plants 
are growing things and require constant attention in greater or less 
degree varying with types of development, whether of extreme formality 
or extreme informality, intended to produce certain effects. Many 
require an extremely abnormal quantity of labour and others require a 
minimum of labour for their average maintenance. 







1 


|bL^ 




tir ,1 , i 




iCy ' i 1 


■^ 




1*1 All .\1\ . I Ik- list ()t trees and shrubs which thrive in the c(iiii;ested 
city districts where soil conditions are poor and the air is polluted with smoke 
and dust, is limited to a few kinds, of which the tree-of-heaven, locust and 
catalpa are typical. (See page 119, group XI-A) 




Plate XV. An interesting use of hedges to frame one side ot the rehned for- 
mal garden. Japanese qumce on the left side of the walk, Japanese barberry 
against the right side accented with sheared retinosporas, and buttresses of 
Japanese quince and Amoor River privet on the extreme left against the vine- 
covered wall, form the features of this composition. (See page 124) 



MAINTENANCE 95 

Wild Garden. Many people labour under the impression that the 
woodland wild garden demands very little, if any, attention on the 
maintenance end. The maintenance of a woodland wild garden is a 
problem, to those who really understand its development and success, 
of almost as much importance as the maintenance of the more re- 
fined formal garden. It matters not what the garden may be, either 
the woodland wild garden or the refined garden, undesirable weeds and 
grass will develop if it is not given the necessary attention and cultiva- 
tion. The wild garden cannot be cultivated as deep or as frequently 
as the refined flower garden. Not only must the owner ward against 
the development of weeds but he must watch carefully to be certain 
that those types of plants which are more vigorous growing or which 
seem to be best adapted to their particular location do not spread or 
unnecessarily crowd out certain other desirable plants less vigorous in 
their habit of growth and less apt to thrive in the competition to which 
they are subjected. There will be places in the wild garden where soil 
conditions are not exactly as they should be, and where soil should 
be renovated or manured and where additional leaf mold soil should be 
added. 

Annual Flower Garden. Careful and frequent attention must be 
devoted to the maintenance of annuals during the growing season and 
especially during the flowering season if the best success is to be ob- 
tained with this type of garden. Those annuals like the mid-season 
and late asters need only normal care. Such plants have but one 
flowering season and it is rare that any secondary flowers are de- 
veloped on these plants through intelligent cutting, as is the case 
especially with the snapdragons and also with calendulas, marigolds, 
and pansies. The snapdragon perhaps is one of the most valuable 
flowering annuals for a long period of bloom. It will begin its bloom in 
late June or early July and will continue to bloom until frost retards its 
growth. Such plants however, will not produce an abundance of fine 
flowers if encouraged to persistently produce flowers throughout the 
entire growing season. The snapdragon will produce the best flowers 
if given a rest during some part of the summer. For instance, plants 
which begin flowering in late June or early July should be permitted to 
flower for four or five weeks. They should then be severely cut back to 
a height of four inches to six inches and a new growth permitted to 
develop and produce flowers during late August and September, 



96 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

The one most important duty in the successful growing of annual 
flowering plants, in order to continue their period of bloom, is to keep all 
portions of the plant from developing seed pods. Those branches 
which have produced flowers should be removed as soon as the bloom 
has ceased. Most of the annuals like the calendulas and marigolds 
are encouraged to produce more bloom through this process of keeping 
seed pods removed and the branches severely cut back. Other 
annuals like the annual larkspur, the matricaria, the annual baby's- 
breath, and the bachelor button will not develop a secondary growth, 
and must therefore be planted in successive sowings to secure a con- 
tinuous supply of flowers. 

Refined Formal Garden. The refined formal garden is developed 
through the use of various types of perennials and annuals. The same 
rules apply to the general maintenance of a garden of this kind that 
apply to the general maintenance of perennials and annuals. This 
type of garden however, unlike the other types of gardens, rock 
garden, wild garden, informal garden, etc., should, if developed, be 
perfectly maintained. A formal flower garden for its real success 
depends upon well-defined masses and definite major and minor axis 
lines. Extreme care should be devoted to the clipping of all hedges 
and the maintenance of the outlines of the definite masses of plants. 
All turf borders and walks should be neatly trimmed and carefully 
edged and little if any of the informal loose eff^ect, so common to the 
informal garden and to the wild garden, should be permitted. The 
author attempts to discuss this question together with the question of 
maintenance pertaining to the other types of gardens in order to make 
clear that in the selection of the plants in landscape work the item of 
subsequent maintenance is one of the important factors in the success- 
ful development of the formal flower garden to an even greater extent 
than in other types of gardens. 

Informal Flower Garden. The informal flower garden requires 
less maintenance care than the formal flower garden. It is not so 
essential that the masses of plants and the outline of walks should be as 
carefully defined. There is no garden, not even the wild garden, 
that does not require constant attention for the best results. The same 
questions of maintenance apply to the informal garden in the same 
way that they do to the maintenance of perennials and annuals. The 



MAINTENANCE 97 

only point which the author wishes to make clear is that from the very 
informal nature of the garden the question of maintenance cost is not 
as great as the maintenance cost of the formal garden. 

Rock Garden. Many persons labour under the impression that 
the rock garden does not require constant attention. To successfully 
develop a rock garden planting requires more thorough knowledge 
of plants than the development of the refined flower garden or the 
informal garden. The reason for this is that those plants which 
succeed in the rock garden development are much more uncommon 
than the plants which succeed in other types of gardens and less oppor- 
tunity is aff^orded for intelligent study of their habits of growth and 
flowering characteristics. The rock garden, like the wild garden, is 
often thought of as a garden in which plants enter into a competition 
for "the survival of the fittest." Quite to the contrary, intelligent 
maintenance must be applied in order to eventually develop the plan 
as originally intended. Most of the plants adapted to the rock 
garden are the dwarf, slow-growing types which continue to become 
larger from year to year. They must be kept within bounds by intelli- 
gent pruning which will not destroy their eflPect. Occasionally many 
plants are introduced into the rock garden planting which require 
much more attention on account of the water which is necessary 
for their normal growth. A rock garden is not a garden from which 
flowers are to be picked. The period of bloom is usually the period 
when the plant is most valuable for its effect in the garden and the 
flowers should not be removed at that time. 

Cutting Garden. The cutting garden is perhaps the most simple 
garden and the easiest garden to maintain. The only problem of such 
a garden is to provide easy access to plants placed in definite rows with 
sufficient space for easy cultivation. In a garden of this kind plants 
are permitted their freedom of growth and the object is to feed them 
heavily with fertilizer in order to produce the most desirable flowers 
which are to be cut at a time when the plants are at their height of 
bloom. The problem of maintenance is one of supplying sufficient 
fertilizer to keep the flowers growing vigorously, of cultivating them 
frequently, and watering freely. 

Rose Garden. The object of the average rose garden is to produce 
an abundance of bloom and to produce large individual flowers. The 



98 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

rose garden for the best success of the plants requires careful main- 
tenance. The hybrid roses, which are usually grafted stock, revert 
quickly to the original type if suckers are allowed to develop and 
not kept within control. The rose garden beds should be kept clean 
of other plants unless provided with English tufted pansies or por- 
tulaca. If the rose garden is a part of some formal garden develop- 
ment and the beds are edged with any small hedge or edging plant such 
as the alyssum, then extreme care should be exercised to be certain 
that these plants are kept neatly trimmed and within definite bounds. 
One of the important problems in the maintenance of the rose garden 
is that of knowing the different types of hybrids and how these plants 
should be pruned in order to encourage the production of more flowers 
or of larger flowers. This question is too extensive to be discussed in 
the short space available, but there are numerous books which discuss 
at length the development and care of the rose garden. 

Fertilizing Roses. When rose garden beds have been properly 
prepared by the introduction of plant food in the form of manure, 
bone, and lime, all that remains to be done in the way of fertilization 
may be easily attended to by top-dressing from time to time. Liquid 
manure should never be given in dry weather without first thoroughly 
wetting the soil with plain water, but it may be used at frequent inter- 
vals provided it is not too strong. Dried blood may be used either in 
water or dry at the rate of one ounce to the square yard during May, 
June, and July if hoed well into the surface soil. Wood ashes and bone 
meal in small quantities may be used in a similar manner after growth 
starts. These dry fertilizers should be used only just before a good 
rain or should be followed by a thorough soaking with the hose. 

Wall Garden. The wall garden is perhaps one of the most inter- 
esting types of gardens. A wall garden should never be attempted 
unless those responsible for its maintenance feel certain that the 
proper kind of intelligent maintenance care can be devoted to such a 
garden. A list of plants which are adapted for producing wall garden 
eff"ects is small. It is not so much the question of quantity of main- 
tenance as it is the question of the degree of intelligent maintenance 
which makes for the failure or success of the wall garden. The 
greatest success is attained with wall garden development when 
those responsible for its maintenance make it a special point to thor- 



MAINTENANCE 99 

oughly familiarize themselves with the growing habits and the re- 
quirements of wall garden plants. If this is not done the garden is 
very apt to deteriorate into a normal type of garden with a few 
persistent weeds of various kinds and some of the more common 
and easily growing annuals like alyssum growing from the crevices of 
the rocks. 

Water Garden. The water garden is the one garden which re- 
quires less attention than any other garden when it is once correctly 
developed. The main problem is that of keeping a supply of water 
which is in no degree stagnant and in knowing the requirements for 
the fertilizing of aquatic plants to produce the best development. 

(See Page 220). 



CHAPTER VIII 
WINTER PROTECTION AND MULCHING 

Reasons for Winter Protection. Winter protection is necessary 
under the following conditions: First — When a plant is removed from 
its natural habitat to one more severe; Second — When plants are not 
sufficiently hardy to withstand the new climatic conditions or ex- 
posures; Third — When it is desirable to retain ground moisture during 
the winter for planting on exposed places, mounds and banks. Fourth 
—When plants (especially evergreens) are transplanted into a stiff clay 
soil under climatic conditions where they will be subjected to consider- 
able freezing and thawing and it becomes necessary to protect them 
against heaving; Fifth — When plants, especially rhododendrons and 
other evergreens, must be protected against wind and sun which cause 
so much damage on account of excessive evaporation of moisture from 
the leaves at a time when no moisture is being taken into the plant 
through the root system. Continued, steady cold and a permanent 
covering of snow are generally sufficient to tide a plant through the 
severest part of winter, but an open winter, followed by severe cold, 
or the alternate freezing and thawing in spring, will work havoc. 
Mulching, therefore, is equally important, not only to control sudden 
changes in temperature in extreme weather, but also to maintain a cool, 
even temperature in early spring. 

One of the common impressions in connection with mulching for 
purposes of winter protection Is that plants are really being pro- 
tected against extreme cold. Nothing could be farther from the 
truth. It Is not possible to protect plants against freezing conditions, 
especially during the cold winters of our north when frost enters the soil 
to a depth of two to three feet. Under such conditions no normal 
depth of mulch consisting of rotted leaves or manure could keep frost 
out of the soil surrounding the roots of the plants. 

The real reason then is a different reason from that of being a desire 
to ward off a freezing condition. It is the desire not of warding off the 
cold but of preventing abnormal evaporation of moisture from the 



WINTER PROTECTION AND MULCHING loi 

leaves and especially from the lower part of such plants as the roses 
which are particularly sensitive to this type of evaporation. It is for 
this reason that plants which do not have well-ripened wood like the 
golden bell and certain varieties of the deutzia are subject to injury be- 
cause of this evaporation. Other plants like the bush honeysuckle 
and lilacs which succeed in developing thoroughly ripened wood before 
winter approaches do not suffer so much. There are two important 
sources of injury (outside of the gnawing by animals) which can cause 
plants to be injured during the winter months and as a protection 
against which mulching is necessary. The first is abnormal evapora- 
tion from the roots and stems of plants that are in exposed situations, 
and the second a liability of being heaved from the ground where a 
clay loam soil is subjected to violent changes of freezing and thawing. 
It is for this same reason that standard roses and climbing roses are 
frequently lost during the winter months because they are protected 
by a thin covering of straw, and evaporation is allowed to continue, 
when, in reality, they should be taken down and buried in soil which 
remains moist throughout the winter months and thus protects the 
stems against evaporation. 

Sources of Winter Injury, and Remedies. One source of winter 
injury is a heaving m clayey soils which exposes roots of small and newly 
transplanted plants. This may be remedied by applying a ground mulch 
of straw litter or manure over the entire area immediately around the 
trees and covering the area of root growth. Another source is pre- 
mature activity of the sap, due to the warmth of the sun's rays. If the 
ground is frozen hard and deep, and sun and severe winds strike ever- 
green plants they will " scorch " or dry out because sap cannot flow from 
the roots to take the place of that evaporated. Many evergreens which 
are exposed to severe winter conditions are in reality killed during the 
months of January and February; but the damage done does not be- 
come evident until time for spring growth to begin during the months 
of April and early May. If the evergreens which have been killed 
during the winter months in the nursery are dug and shipped to owners 
of estates at a time prior to spring growth and prior to a time when it is 
possible for a nurseryman to determine whether or not the plant is in a 
normal growing condition, plants killed in this manner (because of the 
lack of winter protection) do not show the injury until the growing 
season, at which time, with the beginning of warm growing weather, the 



102 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

leaves turn brown. Conditions of this kind often follow a severe 
winter. During a severe winter in which successive freezing and thaw- 
ing conditions are a common occurrence evergreens are apt to be 
seriously damaged. Under such conditions it is the heat which causes 
the worst injury to the evergreens during these winter months and, as 
commonly believed, this is not injury due to excessive cold. A suc- 
cession of extremely cold nights and warm thawing conditions during 
the day causes excessive evaporation from the leaves which, as hereto- 
fore mentioned, cannot be replaced through the dormant root system, 
the soil surrounding which has not been sufficiently warmed to excite 
growth. This evaporation may be stopped by shelter fences or by 
wrapping the plants with straw "overcoats." Care should be taken, 
however, to avoid wrapping too tightly, or injury to the plant will 
result from heating of foliage. Boxwood hedges also, particularly 
when young, should be covered to prevent winter injury in sections 
of the country where the temperature may fall as low as zero during 
the winter months. Such hedges may be boxed, or they may be 
banked with cornstalks or coarse litter and also with evergreen boughs. 
One of the best protections for boxwood hedges (as well as broad-leaved 
evergreens) is to be certain that they have a thorough soaking, especially 
during a dry fall, immediately before the freezing weather begins. 

Mice often injure plants, and where this occurs mulching should 
be delayed until cooler weather, when the rodents will have nested 
elsewhere. Poisoning may be resorted to by placing poisoned wheat 
in drain tiles among the mulch. Mice and rabbits will gnaw certain 
shrubs and fruit trees, such as quinces, spireas, forsythias, etc. Such 
plants should be protected, especially the first year, by tar paper or 
burlap if mice are present. Wrapping should begin slightly below 
the surface of the ground at the base of the tree, and extend to a 
height of two feet. The author is advised on good authority that 
where there is excessive danger that the base of certain shrubs and 
fruit trees will be gnawed by mice and rabbits, an excellent method of 
protection is that of mulching these hedges with coal ashes to a depth 
of three to four inches around the immediate base of the plant. The 
gritty condition of this material is evidently objectionable to rabbits 
and mice and its use has saved a number of valuable hedge plants. 

Perennials — Winter Protection of. Perennials should have a 
good mulch of well-rotted manure, straw, leaves, etc., applied just be- 



WINTER PROTECTION AND MULCHING 103 

fore freezing weather, in a late fall, and at the beginning of freezing 
weather in an early fall. In reality, it is not as essential, as we often 
assume it to be, that perennial borders, regardless of the material they 
contain or the type of soil in which the perennials are planted, should 
be mulched during the winter months. There are hundreds of gardens 
which pass through the winter without any protection whatsoever 
being given to the plants. These gardens are not, however, those 
which are developed on clay loam soil. The general feeling is that 
plants are mulched and given this winter protection because otherwise 
they would not be hardy. Quite to the contrary, most of these per- 
ennials are hardy, and as a matter of fact it is rarely possible that 
any amount of mulching such as is ordinarily provided for the garden 
can make any perennial hardy which is not by nature perfectly hardy 
in the climatic and exposed condition where it is growing. Every 
person who is responsible for the mulching of a perennial garden 
should use only a loose texture of material for mulching purposes. 
When mulching perennials place stakes beside small plants and those 
which begin growth late in the spring. This will prevent any loss 
when the mulch is spaded in or removed in the spring. Perennials 
with persistent leaves should not be mulched with anything which will 
mat down. This applies to foxgloves, hollyhocks, sweet williams, and 
violas. Cornstalks and leaves which drop late are best for such a 
mulch. Boxes filled with leaves may be inverted over plants; but when 
this is done the top should be watertight or damage may follow. Some 
tender plants such as pansies and snapdragons may be carried over the 
winter if a heavy mulch is applied before freezing weather appears. 

Bulbs and Lilies — Winter Protection of. Eremurus and the 
tenderest lilies should be protected by a mound of ashes which will 
help shed water and retain an even temperature. All bulbs should be 
mulched with leaves, manure, or litter. If bulbs are planted in the 
heavier types of soil it is quite necessary to cover the crown with a 
good mulch which will maintain in the ground a more even temperature 
and will lessen the possibility of injury to the bulbs because of sudden 
fluctuations of temperature (freezing and thawing conditions), which 
cause heaving of the soil. It should be borne in mind that bulbs 
start growth very early in the spring. If the mulch is left on the sur- 
face of the ground until after the bulbs have started growth, especially 
in a sunny exposure, then the bulbs become spindly and strong plants 



I04 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

and flowers do not develop. In the planting of crocuses late in the 
fall it is advisable to cover the ground immediately with some fresh 
straw manure which will keep the temperature of the ground from be- 
coming too cold until after the bulbs have developed slight root growth. 

Vines — Winter Protection of. Vines and various climbers, such 
as climbing roses or trained fruit trees, when growing against a southern 
or western wall, should be protected by burlap from the winter and 
early spring sun, which may cause growth to start too soon. Very 
tender vines, such as jasmine and some clematises and roses, can best 
be taken down and buried, especially where local climatic conditions 
or exposures are severe. When plants are so treated they should 
be allowed to lie on the ground for ten days or two weeks after they 
have been uncovered in the spring. This allows the canes time to 
harden-ofF. 

Roses — Winter Protection of. Hybrid Teas and Hybrid Perpet- 
uals in most winters can be safely carried over by hilling up the soil 
about the plants to a height of six or eight inches, thus covering the 
lowest six buds, and then covering the plants with hardwood leaves 
eighteen to twenty-four inches deep. The leaves should be held in 
place with cornstalks or brush to prevent their being blown away. A 
three or four inch blanket of stable manure may be applied before the 
leaves are used and a windbreak of boughs of pine or fir trees, or 
cornstalks may be substituted for the leaves if manure is used. Cul- 
tivation should be stopped in September to discourage late growth, but 
the plants should be thoroughly soaked with water in October, just be- 
fore hilling them up. This protection should be removed piecemeal in 
the spring, to gradually harden-off the plants. 

Standard roses may be protected by laying them on the ground and 
treating them as tender vines. This is the most satisfactory method. 
They may also be wrapped with straw and burlap, or boxed, with a 
filling of leaves within the box. The safest method in severe exposures 
is that of burying them. 

Rhododendrons — Winter Protection of. Rhododendrons, other 
broad-leaved evergreens and, to a certain extent, all other ever- 
greens, are apt to be scalded in winter by the morning sun shining 
through the coating of ice or snow upon the leaves, unless they are 



WINTER PROTECTION AND MULCHING 105 

shielded. They should be mulched also during both winter and 
summer. The mulching of rhododendrons for summer is done for the 
purpose of providing a thin layer of leaf mold which will produce as 
nearly as possible the natural conditions of the undisturbed soil in the 
woods and fields where rhododendrons grow. Mulching for winter 
protection is effected by banking the plants with a deep layer of leaves. 
These leaves prevent excessive freezing and possible heaving of 
the soil around the roots. Rhododendrons are further protected 
by building a screen of evergreen boughs or of cornstalks entirely 
around the plantation, but especially on the exposed side. A portion 
of the leaves used in the winter mulch can be left when the mulch is 
removed in the spring. Under no conditions should an attempt be 
made to spade this mulch of leaves into the ground in the spring. 
It may be loosened slightly with a fork, but because this plant has its 
roots so near the surface the ground around the roots, below the natural 
surface, should not be disturbed. 

Trees and Shrubs — Winter Protection of. When mulching 
trees care should be taken to extend the mulch out as far as the roots 
extend, or at least as far as the ends of the branches extend. Most 
of the Japanese flowering peaches, cherries, etc., need a four-inch root 
mulch every winter in severe climates. Boxbushes, many other ever- 
greens, and some deciduous material should be tied in winter. This 
is done to keep the plant from splitting under the weight of the heavy 
snows. Bands of rye straw or burlap are better than string for tying. 
Shrubs and trees when planted in groups or plantations, being thus 
close together, will protect each other to a considerable extent. 

When plants are of doubtful hardiness, screens may be erected for 
protection on the most exposed sides, or completely surrounding the 
plants. Such screens may be made of poles to which is attached brush 
or burlap. Another method is to make a screen of boards. Screens 
are frequently used to protect evergreens, trees, and shrubs. A shed 
without sides also may be constructed over such plantings. This is 
done to avoid loss by drip from buildings, or breakage from the weight 
of snow. Shrubs may be wrapped with straw or burlap, the covering 
being bound with raffia or twine. A pole is usually placed inside the 
wrapping to prevent the plant from bending or breaking. It is pref- 
erable, however, to plant more hardy types of material, because screens 
are extremely unsightly unless the plants are in an obscure location. 



io6 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

Lawns — Mulching of. After the first year it is generally not 
necessary to protect lawns in winter. If a mulch is desired use straw 
or well-rotted manure old enough so that there is no danger from weed 
seeds. In the spring the coarse manure should be removed and the 
finer portions pressed in with a heavy roller. Heavy, coarse manure is 
apt to suffocate the growing grass and leave bare spots on the lawn. 

General Conditions. Fall-planted material, especially perennials, 
and in the heavier soils, should be well protected during the first 
winter with a mulch of strawy manure or hardwood leaves. Compact 
or fresh manures should be avoided. Fresh manures, free from 
straw, will burn the plants, and compact manures will cause decay 
and fermentation, due to lack of aeration. A good strawy manure 
should be used. In the spring the litter may be removed, and the 
finer portions of the mulch spaded into the beds. When leaves are 
used, provision must be made to prevent them from blowing away. 
Boards, branches, or wire netting can be used for this purpose. Mulch- 
ing, applied very early, may be harmful by reason of encouraging late 
root action and top growth. Therefore, it is always advisable to 
delay root mulching until, after several light freezes, a crust has formed 
on the ground. Evergreen boughs, when procurable, make an ex- 
cellent protective covering. After a dry fall most plants, except some 
perennials, are benefited by being thoroughly soaked with water before 
freezing weather occurs. This is especially true of conifers and broad- 
leaved evergreens. Cultivation in shrub and perennial beds can be 
stopped as soon as danger from weeds maturing their seeds is over. 
This will furnish some protection and will also discourage late growth 
of plants. 



PART II 
LISTS FOR REFERENCE 



CHAPTER IX 
EVERGREENS 

The variation in adaptation of evergreens has come to be a much- 
debated question among horticulturists and landscape architects 
who are called upon to use them. An interesting fact is discovered 
after some study of evergreens. The hardy types are not perfectly 
hardy under the varying conditions of climate and exposure in various 
sections of the country. Therefore, evergreens should be selected for 
landscape plantings with a considerable knowledge of their ability to 
withstand local conditions. 

The factors which are evidently most injurious to the normal 
development of evergreens as a group are: (i) sudden variations in 
climatic conditions; (2) condition of the soil; (3) exposure; and (4) 
atmospheric conditions in the vicinity of congested city districts. A 
short discussion of these factors, as bearing upon the growth of ever- 
greens, may be of value. 

I. Climatic Conditions. It is a safe assumption that evergreens 
which are indigenous to sections of country where the climatic condi- 
tions are severe will withstand similar conditions in any other section 
of the country unless the other factors, of soil, exposure, and atmo- 
spheric conditions are extremely adverse. An interesting fact is seen 
in the repeated endeavour to acclimate evergreens, which otherwise are 
hardy, to the sudden changes of temperature experienced along the 
shores of the Great Lakes. Evergreens which are perfectly hardy in 
the severe climate of New York State and New England, and even 
in Michigan, will not prove hardy when used close to the shores of the 
Great Lakes. 

While no one has given a definite reason for this, it is presumed 
that the sudden changes of climatic condition are responsible for 
the failure of many plants. In general, in the selection of ever- 
greens, the more tender varieties should not be far removed from 
climatic conditions in which they are known to be perfectly hardy, 

109 



no THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

unless the person using such plants expects the inevitable loss which 
will be experienced during a very severe winter. 

2. Condition of the Soil. The question of soil conditions 
with reference to the planting of evergreens is more important in the 
clayey sections of the Middle West than in most of the other sections 
of the country. In the northern portions of the Middle West this is 
not so evident, because the summer months are not as hot and dry as 
they are farther south. Even the more hardy evergreens will not 
withstand the stiff clay conditions of the Middle West during the hot 
summer months, at which times this clay bakes very hard. Ever- 
greens, to be grown most successfully, should be planted in a loose, 
sandy-loam or clay-loam soil, and should not be planted directly in a 
soil the predominating portion of which is clay. Therefore the soil 
conditions should be examined closely before it is definitely decided to 
use evergreens, and the list of evergreens shown under IX-B are those 
which are most hardy and best adapted to the climatic conditions and 
soil conditions of the Middle West, as proven by years of experience 
and careful observation. 

3. Exposure. If the more tender types of evergreens which 
do not normally grow under the most severe climatic conditions 
are selected for use in a section where the climatic conditions are 
severe, then such plants should be so located that the exposure from the 
prevailing winds of winter is greatly reduced. It is possible to use most 
of the evergreens shown in Group IX-A in any section of the country, 
provided a proper exposure is selected and the proper winter protection 
is given. Many times this is impracticable, because evergreens are 
selected to be of equal value during the winter months and during the 
summer months. There is no windbreak or screen as yet developed 
for the protection of evergreens against exposure which in itself 
does not detract to a great extent from the beauty of these plantations 
during a period of the year when their foliage should be most effective. 

4. Atmospheric Conditions. Many evergreens are used in the 
vicinity of our congested city districts, or in locations where the 
prevailing winds surround them with an atmosphere polluted with 
dust, smoke, and gases, all of which are very injurious to most ever- 
greens. Only the most hardy evergreens should be used under such 
conditions, and in order to keep them in a normal growing condition 




a. 


, ^ 


>i 


3 


u 










^ 






— 


U-. 


<il 


O 






c 


>. 




^^ 








qj 








n. 


_; 


c 


> 


(LI 
> 


X 


u 


, 1 _ 


H 




< 


D 




Plate XVIII. Upon a spacious lawn efFective use can occasionally be 
made of trees and shrubs possessing symmetrical habits of growth and fine 
flowering and fruiting, qualities. The deutzia is a shrub with these capabil- 
ities; but it is seldom seen as a specimen plant. Restraint, however, must 
be observed and a dotted effect avoided. (See chapter XIV) 



EVERGREENS in 

it is essential during the cooler hours of the day, and at frequent in- 
tervals, to spray these plants to wash off much of the soot which col- 
lects from the atmosphere. While the leaves of evergreens are 
heavily covered with a layer of cuticle, the breathing pores are very 
susceptible to clogging from the dust of a polluted city atmosphere. 

So much for the discussion of the adaptation of evergreens to these 
conditions. A list of evergreens is shown in Group IX-C, found through 
experience to be not generally recommended for use in the Middle West. 

Another condition often arises in the use of evergreens. Material 
is desired for undergrowth planting in shady wooded areas. There 
are very few kinds of evergreens which will produce anything like their 
normal density of foliage where they are deprived of a great portion 
of sunlight. This group of material is shown in Group IX-D. 

It is often necessary to use groups of low-growing and refined types 
of evergreens to provide mass effects on private lawns and about 
residences, to be of value during the winter and summer months. 
A list of evergreens available and adapted to this use has been generally 
outlined. They must be of the more slow-growing types if over- 
crowdmg within the first two or three years after transplanting is to 
be avoided. 

LIST OF EVERGREENS 

A. Most Hardy. This group contains types of evergreens 
selected for general use under widely varied conditions throughout 
the northeastern section of the United States. 

^ Abies brachyphylla Juniperus horizontalis douglasi 

Nikko Fir Waukegan Juniper 

Abies concolor /Juniperus sahina 

White Fir Savin Juniper 

Abies veitchi Juniperus scopulorum 

Veitch's Silver Fir Rocky Mountain Silver Cedar 

Chamaecyparis obtusa 'Juniperus virginiana 

Japanese Cypress Red Cedar 

/juniperus chinensis pfitzeriana Juniperus virginiana cannarti 

Pfitzer's Juniper Columnar Tufted Cedar 

\/ Juniperus communis Juniperus virginiana schotti 

Common Juniper , Schott's Red Cedar 

Juniperus communis aurea ' Picea alba 

y Golden Juniper White Spruce 

'Juniperus excelsa striata Picea alcockiana 

Slender Greek Juniper Alcock's Spruce 

Juniperus horizontalis Picea engelmanni 

Trailing Juniper Engelmann's Spruce 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



/\U 



Picea excelsa (in variety) 

Norway Spruce 
-jPicea omorika 

Servian Spruce 
''Picea pungens 

Colorado Spruce 
' Pinus cembra 
, Swiss Stone Pine 
/ Pinus densiflora umbraculifera 

I Dwarf Japanese Red Pine 
' Pinus montana mughus 
/ Dwarf Mountain Pine 
' Pinus nigra austriaca 

Austrian Pine 
' Pinus resinosa 
j Red Pine 
Pinus strohus 
White Pine 
Pinus sylvesiris 
Scotch Pine 
' Psetidotsuga douglasi (Colorado 
Douglas Fir 
- Sciadopitys verticillata - 
Umbrella Pine 
Taxus baccata repandens / 
Spreading English Yew 



Form) 



1 Taxus canadensis 

Ground Yew 
' Taxus cuspidata 
Japanese Yew 
Taxus cuspidata breviJoUa 
Short-leaved Japanese Yew 
■'Thuja occidentalis aurea 

George Peabody's Golden Arborvitae 
Thuja occidentalis douglasi 

Douglas' Arborvitae 
Thuja occidentalis globosa 
Globe Arborvitae 
/ Thuja occidentalis (Little Gem) 
Little Gem Arborvitae 
Thuja occidentalis plicata 

Tall Pointed Arborvitae 
Thuja occidentalis pyramidalis 
Pyramidal Arborvitae 
■ Thuja occidentalis rosenthali 
Rosenthal's Arborvitae 
Thuja occidentalis vervaneana 

Vervaene's Arborvitae 
Thuja occidentalis tvareana 
Siberian Arborvitae 
• Tsuga canadensis 

Canadian Hemlock 



Tsuga caroliniana 
Carolina Hemlock 



B. Best Adapted for Use in Mid-West. This group of ever- 
greens will withstand climatic and soil conditions of the mid-west, 
especially throughout Ohio, and under average exposure these types 
will develop normally in the suburban and country districts. 



Abies brachyphylla 

Nikko Fir 
Abies concoloT 

White Fir 
Abies veitchi 

Veitch's Silver Fir 
Chamaecyparis obtusa 

Japanese Cypress 
Chamaecyparis pisifera filifera 

Thread-branched Cypress 
Chamaecyparis pisifera squamsa 

Veitch's Silver Cypress 
Juniperus (in variety) 

Juniper 
Picea alba (north only) 

White Spruce 



Picea alcockiana 

Alcock's Spruce 
Picea engelmanni 

Engelmann's Spruce 
Picea excelsa (in variety) 

Norway Spruce 
Picea omorika 

Servian Spruce 
Picea pungens glauca 

Koster's Blue Spruce 
Pinus cembra 

Swiss Stone Pine 
Pinus mnntayia mughus 

Dwarf Mountain Pine 
Pinus nigra atistriaca 

Austrian Pine 



EVERGREENS 113 

Pinus resinosa Taxiu cuspidata brevtfolia 

Red Pine Short-leaved Japanese Yew 

Pinus strobus Taxus cuspidata capitata 

White Pine Clustered Japanese Yew 

Pinus sylvestris Thuja occidentalis (in variety) 

Scotch Pine American Arborvitae 

Pseudotsuga douglasi Thuja occidentalis tvareana 

Douglas Fir Siberian Arborvitae 

Sciadopitys veriicillata Thuja orientalis (northern grown) 

Umbrella Pine Oriental Arborvitae 

Taxus baccata repandens Tsuga canadensis 

Spreading English Yew Canadian Hemlock 
Tsuga caroliniana 
Carolina Hemlock 

C. Not Adapted for Use in Mid-West. Evergreens in this 
group should not be used in the amateur garden of this section. Ex- 
perience has shown that they have proven "treacherous" in their 
abihty to thrive and also in their habit of growth under these peculiar 
climatic and soil conditions, to which they are not adapted. 

"^ Abies balsamea Juniperus excelsa 

Balsam Fir Greek Juniper 

Abies fraseri Picea mariana 

Fraser's Balsam Fir , Black Spruce 

'^ Abies nordmanniana Pinus banksiana 

Nordman's Fir Jack Pine 

Cephalotaxus (in variety) Pinus jefreyi 

False Yew Jeffrey's Pine 

Chamaecyparis lazvsoniana. Pinus palustris 

Lawson's Cypress Long-leaved Pine 

Chamaecyparis pisifera ^ Pinus ponderosa 

Pea-fruited Cypress Bull Pine 

Chamaecyparis pisifera plumosa Thujopsis dolobrata 

Plume-like Cypress Japanese Arborvitae 

D. Adapted to Partial Shade in Wooded Areas. The group 
of evergreens which will develop normal foliage and normal growth 
under partial shade in wooded areas is limited. The types in this 
group have proven the most satisfactory. 

Juniperus virgintana Pseudotsuga douglasi 

Red Cedar Douglas Fir 

Pinus banksiana (for light soils) Taxus canadensis 

Jack Pine Ground Yew 

Pinus strobus Thuja occidentalis 

White Pine American Arborvitae 

Tsuga canadensis 
Canadian Hemlock 



114 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



E. Low-growing, Formal Types. This group contains types of 
evergreens which are valuable for accent and for specimen purposes. 
They should be planted on the open lawn or where there is ample 
space for them to develop their natural habit of growth. Evergreens 
from this list, and the low-growing types of a more informal character 
from Groups IX-A and IX-B should be selected for the refined mass 
plantings of evergreens as illustrated in Figure i Plate XL 

Abies concohr globosa (spherical) 

Globe White Fir 
Chamaecyparis obtusa nana (conical) 

Dwarf Japanese Cypress 
Chamaecyparis obtusa nana aurea (conical) 

Dwarf Golden Japanese Cypress 
Juniperu virginiana globosa (globose) 

Globe Red Cedar 
Picea excelsa clanbrasiliana (compact 
broad conical) 

Cone-shaped Norway Spruce 
Picea excelsa compacta (sub-globose) 

Compact Norway Spruce 
Picea excelsa gregoriana (sub-globose and 
compact) 

Gregory's Dwarf Norway Spruce 
Picea excelsa nana (depressed sub-globose) 

Dwarf Norway Spruce 
Picea excelsa pygmaea (dense, small 
pyramid) 

Dwarf Pyramidal Norway Spruce 

Picea excelsa tabulaeformis (low and flat) 

Tablet-shaped Norway Spruce 
Picea orientalis nana (low, broad pyramid) 

Dwarf Oriental Spruce 
Picea pungens compacta (dwarf conical) 

Dwarf Blue Spruce 
Pinus cembra compacta (dwarf conical) 

Dwarf Swiss Stone Pine 
Pinus densiflora umbraculijera tanyosha 

(vase form) 

Dwarf Japanese Red Pine 

Pinus koraiensis (dense, broad pyramid) 

Corean Pine 
Pinus montana mughus (globose) 

Dwarf Mountain Pine 
Pinus strobus umbraculijera (vase form) 

Bush White Pine 
Pinus strobus brevijolia (compact and 
round) 

Dwarf White Pine 



Pinus sylvestris pumila (globose) 

Globe Scotch Pine 
Pseudotsuga douglasi globosa (globose) 

Globe Douglas Spruce 
Taxus baccata repandens (sub-globose) 

Spreading English Yew 
Taxus cuspidaia densa (hemispherical) 

Dwarf Japanese Yew 
Thuja occidentalis compacta (globose) 

Compact Arborvitae 
Thuja occidentalis dumosa (dense dwarf) 

Dwarf Arborvitae 
Thuja occidentalis ellwangeriana (low, 
broad pyramid) 

EUwanger's Arborvitae 
Thuja occidentalis globosa (globose and 
very dwarf) 

Globe Arborvitae 
Thuja occidentalis hoveyi (dense ovate) 

Hovey's Arborvitae 
Thuja occidentalis (Little Gem) (flat 
ovate) 

Little Gem Arborvitae 
Thuja occidentalis nana (compact globose) 

Dwarf Arborvitae 
Thuja occidentalis pumila (dense dwarf) 

Dwarf Arborvitae 
Thuja occidentalis reidi (broad dwarf) 

Dwarf Arborvitae 
Thuja occidentalis wagneriana (globose) 

Dwarf Arborvitae 
Thuja occidentalis zvoodwardi (dense glo- 
bose) 

Woodward's Dwarf Arborvitae 
Tsuga canadensis globosa (dense globose) 

Globe Hemlock 
Tsuga canadensis nana (depressed and 
spreading) 

Dwarf Hemlock 
Tsuga canadensis pendula (sargenti) (flat 

topped depressed) 
Sargent's Weeping Hemlock 



CHAPTER X 
STREET AND AVENUE PLANTING 

This is a broad subject and yet it has been well covered by numer- 
ous bulletins and books. There are a few important questions, how- 
ever, which should be decided very definitely in the minds of those 
who are selecting trees for use as street plantings. There is a group 
of trees most of the types of which are entirely hardy under all condi- 
tions. There is another group of trees which should seldom, if ever, 
be used on streets, and there is a third group of trees which possess 
some real value for street planting; but they should be selected only 
with a thorough knowledge of the conditions under which they are 
to be placed. 

In general, trees which are selected for street planting should be 
symmetrical in character, they should be long lived, and they should 
not be readily susceptible to injury from insects and smoke. 

There is a certain group of trees specimens of which can be safely 
selected for street planting, either in city or suburban districts. This 
group comprises such trees as the sugar maple, red oak, European 
linden, and American elm, the last of which is best adapted to planting 
on narrow streets because of its high-headed characteristic of growth. 
Though it becomes very tall its vase-form enables it to reach above 
dwellings that may be not far back from the street and to leave open a 
vista down the street axis. The low, compact-headed types of trees, 
such as the sugar maple, pin oak, and the linden ought to be planted 
only on wide streets. While the use on narrow streets of such 
vase-shaped trees as the elm allows for an unobstructed vista, the use 
of such trees as the pin oak and hnden, unless the lower branches are 
severely pruned, has a tendency to "choke up" and to obstruct the 
vista. 

A certain few trees should rarely, if ever, be used in street tree 
plantmg. This list comprises such trees as the horse chestnut, box 
elder, black locust, willows, birches, and poplars. Birches and locusts 
are too short lived. The horse-chestnut and the box elder are littering 

"S 



ii6 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

in their habit. The poplars are subject to disease as well as being 
short lived, and the willows are not adapted to shade tree purposes, 
even in their habit of growth. In spite of the fact that there are some 
excellent trees as shown in the first and second lists in this chapter, 
well adapted to street and avenue planting, and thoroughly tested 
through a period of years, yet many individuals responsible for the 
selection of these permanent assets or detriments to the public streets 
will still select trees such as those which are included m the third list of 
this chapter. 

Trees such as the maidenhair tree, tree of heaven, oriental plane, 
and pin oak should not be used for street tree planting without a 
thorough knowledge of the conditions under which they are to grow 
and the conditions to which they are best adapted. The pin oak 
and the maidenhair tree are tall, pyramidal trees, which should be 
used only on wide streets in a heavy soil, and the maidenhair tree 
should never be used for street and avenue planting except in the less 
severe climatic conditions. The tree of heaven has a vigorous habit 
of growth and is an excellent tree in the smoky, congested sections of 
our cities where shade trees are required. Before trees in this group 
are used some of the important bulletins and books on our city street 
trees should be consulted for further information. (See Bibliography.) 

Where an avenue is of such length that it passes through two or more 
radically different soil types care must be exercised or the trees on one 
soil will not grow as fast or luxuriantly as upon another soil. This will 
result in an avenue of uneven height and spread in the tops of the trees 
and thus spoil an otherwise successful planting. 

LIST OF TREES FOR STREET AND AVENUE PLANTING 

A. Trees Which Are Entirely Hardy Under All Conditions. 
This group contains the standard types of shade trees which can be 
planted under almost any condition of climate or soil, with some degree 
of assurance that they will develop an interesting normal habit of 
growth. This list may be termed "the ten best trees for general 
use in street and avenue planting," in city, suburban, and urban 
districts. 

Acer saccharum Qutrcus coccinea 
Sugar Maple Scarlet Oak 

Quercus alba Qutrcus rubra 
White Oak Red Oak 



STREET AND AVENUE PLANTING 



117 



Quercus velutina 

Black Oak 
Tilia euchlora 

Crimean Linden 
Tilia tomentosa 

Silver Linden 



Tilia vulgaris 

Common Linden 
Ulmus americana 

American Elm 
Ulmus glabra 

Scotch Elm 



B. Trees Which Should Be Selected With a Thorough 
Knowledge of the Conditions Under Which They Are to Be 
Used. Before trees in this group are used, descriptive information 
of these types should be consulted in order to know that the soil 
conditions, exposure, climate, and width of streets are such that these 
trees will meet the requirements and develop a normal growth. 



Acer platanoides 

Norway Maple 
Ailanthus glandulosa 

Tree of Heaven 
Celtis occidentalis 

Nettle Tree 
Fraxinus (in variety) 

Ash Tree 
Ginkgo biloba 

Maidenhair Tree 



Liquidambar styraciflua 

Sweet Gum 
Liriodendron tulipijera 

Tulip Tree 
Platanus orientalis 

Oriental Plane 
Phellodendron amurense 

Chinese Cork Tree 
Quercus palustris 

Pin Oak 



Ulmus campestris 
English Elm 

C. Trees Which Should Never Be Used on Streets. Many 
trees are selected for street planting, either because they are the easiest 
trees to grow or the tree which can be obtained with the least difficulty 
and expense. Such trees are a future liability to the community and 
they should never be planted except for some important reason, such 
as the impossibiUty of obtaining other types. They are adapted to 
specimen use rather than to street use. 



Acer saccharinum 

Soft Maple 
Acer negundo 

Box Elder 
Aesculus hippocaslanum 

Common Horse-chestnut 
Betula (in variety) 

Birch 
Catalpa (in variety) 

Indian Bean 



Gleditsia triacanthos 

Honey Locust 
Platanus occidentalis 

American Plane 
Populus eugenei 

Carolina Poplar 
Robinia pseudacacia 

Black Locust 
Salix (in variety) 

Willow 



Sorbus aucuparia 
European Mountain Ash 



CHAPTER XI 
PLANTS FOR USE IN CONGESTED CITY DISTRICTS 

The effect of dust, smoke, and gas fumes upon vegetation is well 
known and yet no considerable amount of study has been given 
to this subject, largely because it has not been considered an eco- 
nomic question. Surely the people who are compelled to live in the 
congested districts of our large cities are as much entitled to shade and 
greenery as any one else, and there is no question but that the health- 
fulness of the congested districts is lowered by the absence of shade and 
grass. By the use of those plants which can survive drought, smoke, 
and abuse, some sort of trees or shrubbery may be had almost any-- 
where, except perhaps in the immediate vicinity of a steel mill or 
similar factories, where not even grass will survive. The first trees 
one comes to on the edge of the treeless districts which surround large 
steel mills are usually ailanthus or willow. The ailanthus is also the 
tree which most often appears in the closely built up sections of large 
cities, often providing the only greenery to be seen in whole sections of 
a town. Ashes, locusts, European planes, European lindens, and horse- 
chestnuts also seem to have the ability to withstand the summer 
droughts and the suffocating soot that proves disastrous to so many 
city trees. No rough-leaved tree nor one which requires much water 
should be used as a street tree in a congested, sooty district, because 
it is doomed beforehand to a lingering death, if it survives at all. 
Pin oaks and willows are useful only when they are assured of a 
reasonable supply of water during summer droughts. 

Among the shrubs such smooth-leaved, hardy sorts as the lilacs, 
privets, golden bells, buckthorns, and barberries seem to withstand the 
drawbacks of smoke, soot, and drought the best. 

Most of the coniferous evergreens have a hard time even existing 
in any closely built up town. The Colorado blue spruce, silver fir, 
Scotch pine, and dwarf mountain pine have withstood the soot and gas 
better than any others, and some recent experiments with the Carohna 
hemlock seem to show that it, too, will survive in the heart of a city, 



PLANTS FOR CONGESTED CITY DISTRICTS 



119 



providing it receives a certain amount of care. The common arborvitae 
has generally proved a failure. The exact reason why conifers are so 
unsuccessful has not so far appeared. Their short life seems to be due 
to the accumulation of soot which clogs the pores of the leaves and 
slowly suffocates them. They transpire so much water also during 
the hot summer droughts that they need an excessive amount of 
moisture, and they need numerous showers or washings from the 
hose also to keep them clean and cool. As most evergreens grow- 
ing under city conditions do not get any care they rarely succeed, and 
when they do live, they lose their colour and are therefore not recom- 
mended. 

As a rule, native collected plants seldom or never succeed when 
taken directly into the congested city districts, and only those plants 
among the deciduous shrubs and trees which are smooth-leaved are 
to be recommended for trial. 

LIST OF PLANTS FOR USE IN CONGESTED CITY DISTRICTS 

A. Trees. This group contains trees which may be used with a 
great deal of certainty that they will thrive under city conditions of 
congestion and dusty atmosphere. Wherever possible, these trees, 
especially evergreens, should be thoroughly sprayed at frequent 
intervals to wash a considerable portion of the dust from the surface 
of the leaves. 



Abies concolor 

White Fir 
Aesculus hippocastanum 

Common Horse-chestnut 
Ailanthus glandulosa 

Tree of Heaven 
Celtis occidentalis (North only) 

Nettle Tree 
Cercis canadensis 

Red-bud 
Crataegus (in variety) 

Thorn 
Fraxinus (in variety) 

Ash Tree 
Ginkgo biloba 

Maidenhair Tree 
Juniperus virginiana 

Red Cedar 
Picea pungens 

Colorado Spruce 



Pinus montana mughus 

Dwarf Mountain Pine 
Pinus sylvestris 

Scotch Pine 
Plalanus orienialis 

Oriental Plane 
Quercus palustris 

Pin Oak 
Robinia pseudacacia 

Black Locust 
Salix (in variety) 

Willow 
Sophora japonica 

Japanese Pagoda Tree 
Tilia europaea 

European Linden 
Tilia tomentosa 

Silver Linden 
Ulnius campesiris 

English Elm 



I20 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

B. Shrubs. In every city district the occupants of some homes 
desire shrubs in connection with their yards, which give a touch of 
nature to their places. The shrubs in this group have proven the 
most hardy under adverse city conditions and should be used as a 
basis for selecting types. 



Aralia spinosa 

Hercules' Club 
Berberis thunbergi 

Thunberg's Japanese Barberry 
Cornus (in variety) 

Dogwood 
Evonymus americanus 

Strawberry Bush 
Forsythia (in variety) 

Golden Bell 
Hibiscus syriacus 

Rose of Sharon 



Ligustrum (in variety) 
Privet 

Physocarpus opulijolius 

Ninebark 
Rhamnus (in variety) 

Buckthorn 
Spiraea (in variety) 

Spirea 
Symphoricarpos (in variety) 

Snowberry 
Syringa vulgaris 

Common Lilac 



Viburnum (in variety) 
Viburnum 



CHAPTER XII 

PLANTS FOR HEDGES 

The selection of plants for hedges forms one of the most interesting 
subjects in the study of use of plants. More often than for any other 
purpose trees and shrubs for hedges are selected either from an eco- 
nomic or an aesthetic point of view. It may be desired to have a 
hedge for its beauty, or it may be desired for the purpose of a screen, a 
windbreak, or as a definite barrier. 

Many times it is desirable in the development of hedge plantations, 
especially those which are more than the average height (three to four 
feet), to develop a hedge which will retain its foliage during the winter 
months. This may be desirable for two reasons: first, to provide a 
barrier and at the same time a screen against objectionable views and to 
secure privacy, and, second, to lend interest to a winter landscape 
because of the foliage effect. The only effective hedge barrier which 
holds its leaves during the winter is one composed of conifers. Broad- 
leaved evergreens are not desirable for this purpose; mainly because 
they are not sufficiently compact in their habit of growth to meet the 
requirements of a hedge, and they do not lend themselves to shearing. 
The evergreen hedge which is planted for the purpose of providing a 
complete screen, and requires a normal growth of the foliage, should 
seldom be planted in the heavy shade of large overhanging trees. 
Hedge plants which are selected as barriers or screens should be close 
growing and compact in habit. Many among them are thorny in char- 
acter, thus making passage through them very difficult. 

Hedges which are planted for barriers and which do not hold their 
leaves during the winter are usually valuable mostly for their summer 
effect. They are seldom planted for the purpose of a screen, for such a 
screen is desirable during the months of the year when the foliage is not 
present. 

Many flower gardens, especially large rose gardens, have been much 
enhanced from a landscape viewpoint by the presence of low-growing, 
compact hedges which accurately define the outline of the various beds 



122 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

and emphasize the main axial Hnes of the garden. There is a group of 
plants from which kinds are selected for hedge purposes, and which 
lend themselves to frequent clipping and shearing. These are most 
often used for edgings beside formal garden walks, pools, and beds of 
planting. The ideal hedge for this purpose is one which requires a very 
small amount of pruning in order to maintain its close, compact habit. 
It is therefore necessary to select plants for this purpose with a careful 
knowledge of the natural habits of growth of the mature plants and to 
use such plants for hedge purposes, rather than to endeavour by severe 
pruning to adapt larger growing types to such uses. Such hedges are 
usually maintained from six to twelve inches in height and should be 
planted at least twelve inches away from the edge of any garden walk 
in order to provide ample width for the hedge to spread as it matures. 

Hedges for the purpose of windbreaks and solid screens are composed 
almost entirely of trees which are more or less compact in their habit of 
growth and will continue to develop while planted in a crowded space. 
Considerable good judgment should be used in locating a windbreak 
which is likely to act as a snow trap also, because the great drift of snow 
which accumulates behind a large windbreak may prove a nuisance in 
the early spring by lying deeply on the ground long after the land under 
it should be thawed out and ready to use. This drift may also break 
down small and brittle trees and shrubs and do more damage than good. 
For this reason, on the open prairies of the Dakotas it is often found 
necessary to locate windbreaks as far as one hundred feet to the wind- 
ward of the buildings or road which are to be protected, because a strip 
approximately ten times its height is affected by a windbreak. This is 
shown by the snow lying drifted for this distance to the leeward after a 
heavy snowfall, accompanied by a driving wind. 

Some thirty years ago, L. H. Bailey gave the following rules for 
planting windbreaks {Gardeti and Forest Vol. i, page 46). While 
primarily intended for orchardists they are well worth considering 
to-day by anyone who is going to do such planting on a large scale for 
ornamental purposes. 

(l). The windbreak should not obstruct atmospheric drainage. 

(2). The windbreak should never be dense enough to force the buds on fruit trees 

in those localities which are subject to late spring frosts. 
(3). As a rule, in localities where atmospheric drainage will not be severely checked, 

the windbreak should have a comparatively dense bottom, formed by 

undergrowth or low-branched trees. 
(4). Native trees and shrubs are preferable for windbreaks. 



PLANTS FOR HEDGES 123 

To these rules it might be added that, while a single row of plants is 
often desirable, it does not take care of the contingency that arises 
when one or more plants die. It is consequently preferable to plant 
two or more staggered rows of plants which thus do not require to be 
planted so closely and for that reason are more likely to survive a long 
while and retain their lower branches. It is possible to gain a good 
ornamental effect also by combining evergreen trees with harmonious 
deciduous ones, such as hemlock or spruce with birches and maples. 
This type of planting is often called a "shelter belt" and when a con- 
siderable number of evergreen trees are used a pleasing effect is secured 
the year round, and large numbers of birds will be found to be attracted 
and held, not only through the nesting season but sometimes all the year. 

Still another use for hedges is that of providing privacy. Most of the 
shrubs used in this group should be of the tall types, exceeding five 
feet in height, and should have a compact, heavy foliage. The 
natural growth of the shrubs should be close and they should hold their 
foliage during the late summer and early fall. Some of the shrubs 
which are best adapted for this purpose are the rose of Sharon, common 
buckthorn, and the European beech, the foliage of which does not 
develop until the latter part of the spring. 

It is often desirable to select plants which will serve as hedges in the 
bleak exposures of lake fronts and ocean shores, and also in the Cana- 
dian northwest. These plants should be hardy under all severe cli- 
matic conditions of the northeast and the Canadian northwest. Most 
of the plants which have been suggested for this group have been 
found growing normally under the most severe conditions of climate 
and exposure. 

LIST OF PLANTS FOR HEDGES 

A. Barriers. This group consists of types of plants which are 
compact in their habit of growth and some of which are thorny. They 
are excellent as barriers for two reasons: either because of their 
thorny character or because of their extremely close habit of growth. 
The first list (a) contains plants which hold their leaves during the 
winter months, and the second list (b) contains plants which do not 
hold their leaves during the winter months. 

a. Holding leaves during winter: 

Chamaecyparis pisifera plumosa Fagus sylvatica 

Plume-like Cypress European Beech 



124 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



Mahonia vquijolium 
Oregon Grape 

Picea excelsa 
Norway Spruce 



Pyracantha coccinea lalandi 

Evergreen Thorn 
Thuja (in variety) 

Arborvitae 



Tsuga canadensis 
Canadian Hemlock 



b. Not holding leaves during winter: 

Acer campestre 

European Cork Maple 
Berberis ihunbergi 

Thunberg's Japanese Barberry 
Carpinus betulus 

European Hornbeam 
Chaenomeles japonica 

Japanese Quince 
Citrus trifoliata 

Hardy Orange 
Crataegus coccinea 

Scarlet-fruited Thorn 
Crataegus cordata 

Washington Thorn 
Crataegus crus-galli 

Cockspur Thorn 
Crataegus oxycantha 

May Thorn 



Fagus syhatica 

European Beech 
Gleditsia triacanthos 

Honey Locust 
Hippophae rkamnoides 

Sea Buckthorn 
Lonicera fragrantissima 

Early Fragrant Honeysuckle 
Madura pomijera 

Osage Orange 
Prvnus spinosa 

Black Thorn 
Rhamnus cathartica 

Common Buckthorn 
Rhamnus frangula (variety latifolia) 

Alder Buckthorn 
Rosa rugosa 

Japanese Rose 



B. Edgings for Walks and for Garden Borders. The plants 
in this group are either dwarf in their habit of growth or can be pruned 
severely in order to keep them in a low, compact form. The average 
height at which these hedges may be maintained is eight inches to 
eighteen inches. 



Astilbe japonica 

Japanese Astilbe 
Azalea amoena 

Hardy Evergreen Azalea 
Berberis thunhergi 

Thunberg's Japanese Barberry 
Buxus sujfruticosa 

Dwarf Box 
Deutzia gracilis 

Slender Deutzia 
Ilex micropkylla 

Small-leaved Holly 
Ilex glabra 

Inkberry 
Ligustrum ibota regelianum 

Kegel's Privet 



Philadelphus eoronarius nanus 

Dwarf Mock Orange 
Philadelphus eoronarius nanus aureus 

Golden Dwarf Mock Orange 
Pieris japonica 

Japanese Fetterbush 
Pyracantha coccinea lalandi 

Evergreen Thorn 
Rosa blanda 

Meadow Rose 
Rosa polyantha (in variety) 

Fairy Rose 
Spiraea bumalda anthony waterer 

Crimson Spirea 
Spiraea callosa alba 

Fortune's White Spirea 



PLANTS FOR HEDGES 



125 



Thuja occidenialis ellwangeriana 
EUwanger's Arborvitae 

Thuja occidenialis globosa 
Globe Arborvitae 



Thuja occidenialis Tom Thumb or 
variety umbraculifera 

Tom Thumb Arborvitae 
Viburnum opulus nanum 

Dwarf Bush Cranberry 



C. Windbreaks and Solid Screens. Most of the trees and 
shrubs in this group are rapid growing and are entirely hardy under 
normal dimatic conditions. They can be planted in close proximity to 
each other without injuring the individual specimens. This close plant- 
ing, however, renders all the trees useless in future specimen planting. 

Larix leptolepsis 

Japanese Larch 
Picea (in variety) 



Acer ginnala 

Siberian Maple 
Acer negundo 

Box Elder 
Acer saccharinum pyramidale 

Pyramidal Silver Maple 
Acer tataricum 

Tartarian Maple 
Carpinus caroliniana 

American Hornbeam 
Fagus americana 

American Beech 
Fagus sylvalica 

European Beech 
Juniperus virginiana 

Red Cedar 
Larix europaea 

European Larch 



Spruce 
Pinus resinosa 

Red Pine 
Pinus slrobus 

White Pine 
Populus (in variety) 

Poplar 
Rhamnus caroliniana 

Carolina Buckthorn 
Salix (in variety) 

Willow 
Tsuga canadensis 

Canadian Hemlock 
Tsuga caroliniana 

Carolina Hemlock 



D. For Privacy. These types are selected because of their 
ability to develop a compact, heavy foHage effect and most of these 
types retain their foliage during the late summer and early fall months. 



Acer saccharinum pyramidale 

Pyramidal Silver Maple (low-branched) 
Cornus mas 

Cornelian Cherry 
Eleagnus angusli/olia 

Russian Olive 
Fagus sylvalica 

European Beech 
Forsylhia intermedia 

Hybrid Golden Bell 
Forsylhia viridissima 

Dark Green Golden Bell 
Hibiscus syriacus 

Rose of Sharon 



Ligustrum (in variety) 

Privet 
Lo?iicera bella 

Zabel's Honeysuckle 
Lonicera maacki 

Late-blooming Honeysuckle 
Lonicera lalarica 

Tartarian Honeysuckle 
Rhamnus calharlica 

Common Buckthorn 
Spiraea vanhoullei 

Van Houtte's Bridal Wreath 
Syringa vulgaris 

Common Lilac 



Viburnum (in variety) 
Viburnum 



126 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



E. Hedges for Bleak Exposures. These plants are hardy as 
far north as the Canadian northwest and will survive under extreme 
exposure. This group has been subdivided in order more clearly to 
differentiate between plants which should be used for their different 
characteristics under different exposures. 



a. Late foliage: 



Syringa vulgaris (not variety alba) 
Common Lilac 



b. Close shearing: 

Berberis thunbergi 

Thunberg's Japanese Barberry 
Caragana arborescens 

Siberian Pea Shrub 
Caragana microphylla 

Dahurian Pea Shrub 



Eleagnus anguslifolia 
Russian Olive 

Rhamnus cathartica 
Common Buckthorn 

Shepherdia argentea 
Buffalo Berry 

Shepherdia canadensis (on lime) 
Canadian Buffalo Berry 



c. Unsheared lozv hedges: 

Berberis thunbergi 

Thunberg's Japanese Barberry 



Spiraea vanhoutiei 

Van Houtte's Bridal Wreath 



d. Fruiting hedges: 

Berberis thunbergi 

Thunberg's Japanese Barberry 
Crataegus (in variety) 

Thorn 
Hippophae rhamnoides 

Sea Buckthorn 
Rhamnus cathartica 

Common Buckthorn 



Rnsa (in variety) 

Native Rose 
Rosa rugosa 

Japanese Rose 
Shepherdia argentea 

Buffalo Berry 
Shepherdia canadensis (on lime) 

Canadian Buffalo Berry 



Symphoricarpos (in variety) 
Snowberry 



e. Shady places: 

Acer saccharinum 

Silver Maple 
Crataegus monogyna 

English Hawthorn 
Lonicera xylosteum 

Fly Bush Honeysuckle 



Philadelphus coronarius 
Common Mock Orange 

Spiraea vanhoutiei 

Van Houtte's Bridal Wreath 

Symphoricarpos racemosus 
Snowberry 




Plate XX. An eftective combination of stone work and ot plantnigs in 
an informal lawn. Varieties of stonecrop, moss pinks and Scotch pinks lend 
charm to an otherwise uninteresting mass of stone. (See plate LIII, page 334, 
for lily planting shown in background of this picture.) (See page 139.) 




Plate XXI. An uninteresting rocky slope often can be tiuncil nito .m 
attractive landscape feature through the careful selection and planting of 
plants adapted to light, sandy soils. This slope is covered with a grouping 
of hardy pinks, evergreen catul\-tutt, saxifrage and tutted pans\-. (See 
page 139) 



CHAPTER XIII 
PLANTS FOR BORDER PLANTING 

A VERY important question in the proper development of a lawn is 
how to give it a background and suitable enclosure of trees and shrubs. 
This chapter is especially concerned with the types of shrubs which are 
used as masses of planting in the shrub borders. These shrubs may be 
used in isolated groups or in a continuous border, the object of either 
method of arrangement being to provide a frame for the picture. 

There are two types of lawns: the refined lawn area, and the more 
natural lawn area which fits into the existing landscape and which is 
not kept as well mowed and as neatly edged. The refined lawn area 
requires a type of shrub planting which must be neat in its outlines, 
possessing an interesting touch of foliage, flowers, and fruit, and 
naturally making a compact mass. This material is usually selected 
from the refined types of nursery-grown stock such as spirea, privet, 
snowball, golden bell, honeysuckle, and mock-orange. 

In every border planting, if carefully analyzed, there will be found 
three distinct types of shrubs: those which are tall growing, averaging 
from seven to ten feet in height; those which are of medium growth, 
averaging from four to seven feet in height; and those which are low 
growing, averaging from two to four feet in height. It is essential 
properly to group these shrubs in order to have a compact foliage effect 
carrying from the higher shrubs through the lower shrubs to meet the 
turf. 

It is very important, however, in the grouping of the different types 
of low, medium, and tall-growing shrubs in refined plantings not only 
to know the normal height which the shrubs attain but to know whether 
the foliage texture on one shrub is extremely fine and that on another 
shrub extremely coarse. For instance, the Japanese barberry is not 
used to the best advantage in front of the coarser, medium-growing 
varieties of flowering currant, sumac, or viburnum. It is much better 
adapted for use in front of the spirea, white kerria, and privet, shrubs 
with smaller types of foliage. The reason is that the sudden transition 

127 



128 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

from the extremely coarse texture of foliage to the extremely fine 
texture of fohage creates a discord in the landscape picture. 

There are many of the shrubs contained in the second group which 
are those used to compose border plantations on a large scale where the 
detailed study of the planting is not its most important side, but rather 
where the general mass effects seen at a distance produce the interest- 
ing effect. Shrubs which are selected for border plantmg on the re- 
fined lawn areas, which are usually much more restricted than the ex- 
tensive lawns, must stand the test of detailed study at the same time 
that they prove their value as mass effects. 

The shrubs which are valuable for the less-refined and extensive 
lawn areas may consist of some of the shrubs for refined lawn plant- 
ings, such as the snowballs and the honeysuckles; but in general many 
of these shrubs are more or less native and generally collected locally. 
It is a difficult task to define the material which should be used in 
border plantings on the larger lawn areas where the coarser mass effects 
will meet the requirements. In general, most of the shrubs which are 
adapted to plantings on the refined lawn areas are adapted to the 
second type of plantings; but not all of the shrubs included in the 
second group and adapted to the more unrefined lawn areas are 
adapted in any way to use on the limited refined lawn areas. 

LIST OF PLANTS FOR BORDER PLANTING 

A. Masses for Rkkinf.d Lawn Areas. This group consists of 
both low-growing and tall-growing types of shrubs, mostly of a hardy 
foliage type, neat in the habit of their growth, compact in the te.xture 
of their foliage, and comparatively free from the ravages of insects and 
scale. The evergreen shrubs which can appropriately be interjected 
into border plantings are few in number and must be used sparingly. 
They are omitted from the following altogether. 

a. Low-grozving shrubs {approximately three feet tall): 

Berberis thunhfrgi Dfutzia lemoinei 

Thunbcrg's Japanese Barberry Lemoine's Deutzia 

Calhcarpa purpurea Hypericum moserianum 

Beauty Fruit CJold Flower 

Carynpteris incana Hypericum patuUim henryi 

Blue Spirea Hybrid St. John's Wort 

Deutzia gracilis Kerria japnnica 

Slender Deutzia Globe Flower 



PLANTS FOR BORDER PLANTING 



Myrica cerifera 

Bayberry 
Rosa spinosissima 

Scotch Rose 
Spiraea arguta 

Hybrid Snow Garland 
Spiraea hutnalda anthuny waterer 

Crimson Spirea 



Spiraea japonica alba 

Dwarf White Spirea 
Stephanofidra flexuosa 

Stephanandra 
Symphoricarpos racemosus 

Snowberry 
Symphoricarpos vulgaris 

Indian Currant 



Xanthorrhiza apiifolia 
Yellowroot 



129 



b. Medium-growing shrubs {from jour to seven jeet tall): 



Amelanchier rotundifolia 

June Berry 
Aralia pentaphylla 

Five-leaved Angelica 
Cornus (in variety) 

Dogwood 
Cotoneasler dielsiana 

Chinese Cotoneaster 
Cotoneasler lucida 

Hybrid Cotoneaster 
Diervilla hybrida — Eva Rathke 

Hybrid Weigela 
Evonymus alatus 

Cork-barked Burning Bush 
Evonymus yedoensis 

Japanese Spindle Tree 
Forsythia intermedia spectabilis 

Hybrid Golden Bell 
Ligustrum amurense 

Amoor River Privet 
Ligustrum ibota regelianum 

Regel's Privet 
Magnolia stellata 

Starry Magnolia 
Prunus japonica (in variety) 

Flowering Almond 



Prunus triloba 

Flowering Plum 
Rhodotypos kerrioides 

White Kerria 
Rhus canadensis (horizontal form) 

Fragrant Sumac 
Rhus copallina 

Shining Sumac 
Ribes aureum 

Flowering Currant 
Sophora viciifolia 

Sophora 
Spiraea prunifolia 

Bridal Wreath 
Spiraea vanhouttei 

Van Houtte's Bridal Wreath 
Spiraea veitchi 

Veitch's Spirea 
Syringa persica 

Persian Lilac 
Fiburnum carlesi 

Korean Viburnum 
Viburnum cassinoides 

Withe-rod 
Viburnum dilatatum 

Japanese Bush Cranberry 



Viburnum tomentosum 
Single Japanese Snowball 



c. Tall-growing shrubs (growing over seven feet tall) : 



Cercis canadensis 

Red-bud 
Diervilla floribunda 

Pink Weigela 
Diervilla florida 

Rose-coloured Weigela 



Evonymus bungeanus 
Bunge's Spindle Tree 

Evonymus europaeus 
European Spindle Tree 

Exochorda grandiflora 
Pearl Bush 



130 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



Forsylhia intermedia 

Hybrid Golden Bell 
Forsythia suspensa fortunei 

Fortune's Golden Bell 
Forsythia viridissima 

Dark Green Golden Bell 
Lonicera bella 

Zabel's Honeysuckle 
Lonicera maacki 

Late-blooming Honeysuckle 
Lonicera morrowi 

Japanese Bush Honeysuckle 



Lonicera iatarica 

Tartarian Honeysuckle 
Philadelphus coronarius 

Common Mock Orange 
Philadelphus falconeri 

Falconer's Mock Orange 
Syringa (in variety) 

Lilac 
Viburnum lantana 

Wayfaring Tree 
Viburnum lentago 

Sheep Berry 



Viburnum opulus 
High Bush Cranberry 

B. ' Masses Consisting Mostly of Native Collected Shrubs. 
This group consists mostly of shrubs which are indigenous to the sec- 
tion of the country where they are used. These plants are adapted to 
plantations on a large or small scale, where a feeling of formality 
or of definite refinement of detail is not required. It is difficult to 
differentiate fully between the two groups in this chapter. A number 
of shrubs may equally well, under expert selection and placing, be used 
in either group interchangeably. 



a. Low-growing shrubs: 

Azalea lutea 

Flame-coloured Azalea 
Azalea nudiflora 

Pinkster Flower 
Azalea vaseyi 

Carolina Azalea 
Callicarpa purpurea 

Beauty Fruit 
Ceanothus americanus 

New Jersey Tea 
Comptonia asplenifolia 

Sweet Fern 
Diervilla trifida 

Bush Honeysuckle 



Filipendula purpurea 

Steeple Bush 
Hypericum aureum 

Large-flowered St. John's Wort 
I tea virginica 

Virginian Willow 
Myrica cerifera 

Bayberry 
Rhodora canadensis 

Rhodora 
Rosa niiida 

Shining-leaved Rose 
Symphoricarpos racemosus 

Snowberry 



Symphoricarpos vulgaris 
Indian Currant 



b. Medium-growing shrubs: 

Amorpha fruticosa 

False Indigo 
Aronia arbutifolia 

Red Chokeberry 



Aronia melanocarpa 
Black Chokeberry 

Azalea arborescent 
Smooth Azalea 



PLANTS FOR BORDER PLANTING 



131 



Calycanihus floridus 

Strawberry Shrub 
Cephalanthus occidentalis 

Button Bush 
Clethra alnifolia 

Sweet Pepper Bush 
Dirca palujiris 

Leatherwood 
Evonymus americanus 

Strawberry Bush 
Hydrangea arborescens 

Wild Hydrangea 



Ilex glabra 
Inkberry 

Kalmia 

Laurel 
Rhododendron (in variety) 

Rhododendron 
Rhus canadensis 

Fragrant Sumac 
Roses 

(In variety) 
Viburnum acerifolium 

Maple-leaved Viburnum 



Tall-growing shrubs: 

Amelanchier canadensis 

Shad-bush 
Chionanthus virginica 

White Fringe 
Cornus florida 

Flowering Dogwood 
Corylus americana 

Hazelnut 
Crataegus (in variety) 

Thorn 
Evonymus atropurpureus 

Burning Bush 



Hamamelis virginiana 

Witch Hazel 
Ilex verticillata 

Winterberry 
Pyrus (in variety) 

Crab 
Sambucus canadensis 

American Elder 
Sambucus racemosa 

Red-berried Elder 
Staphylea trifolia 

American Bladder-nut 



Viburnum (in variety) 
Viburnum / 



CHAPTER XIV 
ACCENT AND SPECIMEN TREES AND SHRUBS 

There are two kinds of specimen plants, those which are used as 
single specimens, with full space allowed for their normal development, 
and those which are used as accent plants in masses of border planting, 
because, as such, on account of their flowering and foliage habits, they 
lend a definite touch of interest to the plantation. 

The various plants included in this group are those which have 
a normal symmetrical habit of growth, or those which can easily be 
kept in a neat, symmetrical outline. In order fully to understand the 
difference between specimen trees and shrubs, and trees and shrubs 
for border plantings in groups, the reader should first know that many 
of our trees and shrubs are not adapted to so-called "mass plantings." 
Under the crowded condition of mass plantings these trees and shrubs 
do not produce any of their interesting characteristics of flowers and 
general outline. Much dead growth becomes evident on account of the 
exclusion of light and air necessary for their proper development. It 
is necessary to examine but a few plantations further to know that 
many trees and shrubs most interesting when used as individual 
specimens or as groups of two or three plants make a most uninterest- 
ing group when massed in quantity. 

In general it may be said that specimen plants are used as such 
because of their fruiting habit, flowering habit, interesting outline, or 
general foliage effect, which is evidenced at its best when the material 
is planted as individual specimens. 

So-called specimen plants in this group are often used as accent 
plants in the larger and massed plantations, because of the quality of 
the flowers, the colour of the foliage, the habit of their growth, or 
the texture and colour of twigs. Many specimen plants can be used to 
good advantage scattered here and there in the border plantations to 
emphasize one or more of these interesting characteristics, and they 
sometimes are even more effectively used in this way as accent plants 
than as specimen plants on the lawn. 

Whenever material is selected as specimen material it should be 



ACCENT AND SPECIMEN TREES AND SHRUBS 133 

planted as siTch, and space should be provided wherein the plants can 
develop their individual and normal characteristic habits of growth; 
but when they are used as accent plants it is not so essential to provide 
space for normal development. Illustrations of this may be seen in 
the use of the burnmg bush, the sourwood, and the silver bell. 

LIST OF ACCENT AND SPECIMEN TREES AND SHRUBS 

The types of plants in these two groups are sometimes used in large 
masses as specimens or as accent plants. The best effect as specimens 
is obtained when they are used singly and as accent plants when they 
are used either singly or in groups varying from one to three specimens. 
These plants are valuable because of flowers, foliage, habit of growth, 
texture of growth, colour of twigs, or fruiting effect. 

A. Trees. 

a. Accent and specimen trees: 



Abies (in variety) 

Fir 
Acer palmatum (in variety) 

Japanese Maple 
Acer plaianoides schwedleri 

Schwedler's Purple Maple 
Aesculus (in variety) 

Horse-chestnut 
Belula (in variety) 

Birch 
Catalpa bungei 

Round-leaved Catalpa 
Cercidiphyllum japonicum 

Kadsura Tree 
Cercis canadensis 

Red-bud 
Chamaecyparis (in variety) 

Cypress 
Cladrastris lulea 

Yellow-wood 
Cornus florida 

Flowering Dogwood 
Cornus kotisa 

Japanese Dogwood 
Crataegus (in variety) 

Thorn 
Fagus (in variety) 

Beech 
Fagus syhaiica heterophylla 

Fern-leaved European Beech 



Juniperus virginiana 

Red Cedar 
Koelreuteria paniculata 

Varnish Tree 
Larix (in variety) 

Larch 
Liquidambar styraciflua 

Sweet Gum 
Magnolia (in variety) 

Magnolia 
Morus alba tatarica pendula 

Tea's Weeping Mulberry 
Nyssa sylvatica 

Tupelo 
Oxydendrum arboreum 

Sourwood 
Picea (in variety) 

Spruce 
Pinus (in variety) 

Pine 
Populus alba pyramidalis 

BoUe's Poplar 
Populus nigra italica 

Lombardy Poplar 
Prunus fruiicosa pendula 

Weeping Cherry 
Prunus padus commutala 

Hybrid European Bird Cherry 
Prunus persica 

Flov/ering Peach 



134 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

Prunus pissardi Sorbus quercifoHa 

Purple-leaved Plum Oak-leaved Mountain Ash 

Pyrus (in variety) Taxodium distichum 

Crab Bald Cypress 

Qvercus (in variety) Tilia tomentosa 

Oak Silver Linden 

Salix hlanda Thuja (in variety) 

Wisconsin Weeping Willow Arborvitae 

Salix viullina britzen'sis Tsuga canadensis (in variety) 

Hybrid Yellow Willow Canadian Hemlock 

Sciadopiiys vcrticillata Ulmus joliacea wheatleyi 

Umbrella Pine Wheatley's Cornish Elm 

Ulmus glabra camperdowni 

Camperdown Weeping Elm 

b. Columnar and pyramidal trees: 

Oftentimes situations arise in the solution of landscape problems 
where the use of trees for their pyramidal or columnar habit of growth 
becomes almost a necessity. This necessity may arise because of such 
features being an important part of the landscape composition, or it 
may arise because of the screen effect which the designer is desirous 
of producing where trees must develop within a narrow space of from 
two to four feet. Most of the trees in this group develop normally into 
a pyramidal or columnar form like the pyramidal maples, the poplars, 
and the red cedar, quite unhke the spreading habit of the sugar maples, 
horse-chestnut, and beech. None of these trees lend themselves to use 
in plantations where a broad, informal character is desired in the 
picture; but all lend themselves for use in landscape planting where it is 
necessary to have a background of heavy foliage and an immediate 
garden planting close to these trees. The planter should alwa^'s 
bear in mind that a background of trees of this type, planted closely 
together, will be very injurious to a flower garden development, 
provided the screen planting is located on the southerly side of the 
flower garden, thus throwing dense shade over the garden during the 
greater part of the day. From another point of view, however, this 
type of tree planted closely together will prove a wonderful asset if 
planted on the southerly side of some fountain or garden terminus 
where it is desired to produce a heavy shade. 

Abies brachyphylla Acer Saccharinum pyramidale 
Nikko Fir Pyramidal Silver Maple 

Abies concoloT Acer saccharum moniimentale 
White Fir Pyramidal Sugar Maple 



ACCENT AND SPECIMEN TREES AND SHRUBS 135 



Beiula alba fastigiata 

Pyramidal White Birch 
Carpinus betulus fastigiata 

Pyramidal Hornbeam 
Chamaecyparis lazvsoniana 

Lawson's Cypress 
Juniperus communis suecica 

Swedish Juniper 
Juniperus virginiana pyramidaUs 

Pyramidal Red Cedar 
Juniperus virginiana schotti 

Schott's Red Cedar 
Liriodendron tulipifera pyramidaUs 

Pyramidal Tulip Tree 
Picea excelsa columnaris 

Columnar Norway Spruce 
Picea excelsa pyramidaUs 

Pyramidal Norway Spruce 
PopuhiS alba pyramidaUs 

Bolle's Poplar 



Populus nigra italica 

Lombardy Poplar 
Quercus robur pyramidaUs 

Pyramidal English Oak 
Robinia pseudacacia pyramidaUs 

Pyramidal Black Locust 
Sorbus hybrida fastigiata 

Pyramidal Mountain Ash 
Taxodium distichum pyramidatuvt 

Pyramidal Bald Cypress 
Thuja occidentalis fastigiata 

Fastigiate Arborvitae 
Thuja occidentalis plicata 

Pyramidal Arborvitae 
Thuja orientalis pyramidaUs 

Columnar Oriental Arborvitae 
Tsuga heterophylla 

Western Hemlock 
Ulmus foliacea dampieri 

Fastigiate Elm 



Ulmus foliacea wheatleyi 
Wheatley's Cornish Elm 



B. Shrubs. 

Aesculus parviflora 

Dwarf Horse-chestnut 
Azalea (in variety) 

Azalea 
Caragana arborescens 

Siberian Pea Shrub 
Chaenomeles japonica 

Japanese Quince 
Chionanthus retusa 

Chinese Fringe Tree 
Chionanthus virginica 

White Fringe 
Cornus stolonifera flavirammea 

Golden-twigged Osier 
Corylus maxima purpurea 

Purple-leaved Hazel 
Diervilla hybrida lutea-marginata 

Variegated Weigela 
Deutzia scahra 

Single White Deutzia 
Evonymus alatus 

Cork-barked Burning Bush 
Evonymus americanus 

Strawberry Bush 



Evonymus europaeus 

European Spindle Tree 
Exochorda grandijlora 

Pearl Bush 
Halesia Carolina 

Silver Bell 
Hibiscus syriacus 

Rose of Sharon 
Hydrangea (in variety) 

Hydrangea 
Prunus japonica 

Flowering Almond 
Prunus triloba 

Flowering Plum 
Rhus colinus 

Smoke Bush 
Robinia hispida (grafted high) 

Rose Acacia 
Sambucus canadensis aurea 

Golden Elder 
Stewariia pentagyna 

Alleghany Stewartia 
Tamarix odessana 

Caspian Tamarisk 



CHAPTER XV 

PLANTS VALUABLE FOR USE IN ROCK GARDENS, IN 
JAPANESE GARDENS, AND IN WALL CREVICES 

A FULLY developed estate to-day is not complete without an in- 
teresting rock garden, not because it gives an interesting physical 
variety to the landscape, but because it provides an opportunity for 
the development of one of our most interesting groups of plants, those 
plants which grow their best and prove most interesting in a miniature 
landscape of this rocky character. These gardens have been de- 
veloped to perfection on many EngUsh estates. 

The group of plants valuable for the development of rock garden 
work is comparatively little known to the amateur, and yet there are 
used in rock gardens many interesting types frequently used for other 
purposes. It is true that many of the plants grown for rock gardens 
are very dwarf in their habit of growth and much more sensitive to 
changed conditions of soil and exposure, and that many of them there- 
fore require expert labour for their normal development. 

The most interesting group of plants, perhaps, for rock garden work, 
includes the plants known as "alpine" plants, which are low-growing, 
very dense, and compact in their habit of growth. Most of these plants 
have small leaves and the flowers are rather brilliant and marked in 
their colours. The term "alpine" plants to-day is applied in its 
general use to that dwarf and low-growing group of plants which have a 
tendency to compactness of habit, and which in their mature form of 
development seem to fit into the confined atmosphere of the average 
rock garden. The true rock garden plants may perhaps be the 
"alpine" types, but those plants which landscape architects use 
to-day for rock garden purposes include not only the "alpine" types 
but many small plants, even though they come from the lowlands, 
from the woods, or from the more arid desert sections. There are a 
few of the tall-growing types of plants, such as foxgloves and some 
of the single roses, which, though not dwarf in character, are ad- 
mirably fitted to the scale of rock garden work. 

136 



ROCK AND JAPANESE GARDENS, WALL CREVICES 137 

To one who is in the beginning of this work of selecting plants for 
rock garden use the impression should not be conveyed that every 
plant which is dwarf in its habit of growth is desirable for the rock 
garden. Many of these plants are extremely undesirable, such as 
the creeping Jenny {lysimachia) and dead nettle {lamium maculatum), 
mostly because of their tendency to grow rampant and to crowd out 
and smother many of the more sensitive and more beautiful types of 
rock garden plants. These plants are also difficult to eradicate from 
the garden when once they become established. They should never 
be used except in a rock garden on an extensive scale where the tend- 
ency to spread will not eventually become offensive. In order to 
maintain the true rock garden character it is very essential that plants 
should be selected which are in harmony with the spirit of the garden. 
Many so-called rock gardens are filled with the more common annuals, 
with sweet williams, phlox, hollyhocks, and even large irises — plants 
which belong to an entirely different type of garden, or which, because 
of their size, are not in keeping with the scale of a minutely detailed rock 
garden. 

It is not necessary, in the development of an interesting rock gar- 
den, to use a large quantity of different types of plants. The success 
of a rock garden is dependent largely upon the ability of the designer 
to select proper types of plants for a specific purpose, whether the rock 
garden be very small and occupying only a corner of the lawn, or 
whether it be an extensive area in some wooded portion of the property. 
Such plants as hydrangeas, spireas, petunias, and many plants of these 
types which the reader has often seen in rock garden work, give evi- 
dence immediately of the lack of knowledge of plants and of their 
proper usage. 

It is true also that the plants which are used in rock gardens require 
an amount of care in their maintenance equal to that given plants in 
the more refined and formal types of garden work. 

For the person who has progressed along the path of successful rock 
gardening it might be well to suggest that he should endeavour to 
become intimately acquainted with the plants which he is using, 
especially their source of origin and the conditions under which they 
grew in their native locations. Plants which will withstand extreme 
drought, hot suns, and extreme cold, if they are planted in the correct 
locations in a rock garden, will not be hardy to any extent when planted 
in the open border. In other words, such plants as the cheddar pink 



138 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



and the wild pink are considered to be true crevice plants, and they 
should be used only for that purpose in rock garden work. These 
plants have a type of environment equally as much as persons or 
animals and under which they thrive best. The beginner who is 
developing this type of garden should therefore only use the more 
common types of plants which have withstood the abuse of " amateurs " 
and should make use of the specialized plants only after a thorough 
knowledge is gained concerning them. 

One writer has said concerning the development of a rock garden 
that the designer should "have an idea and stick to it." We see so 
many rock gardens which are so-called and which in reality are only 
a miscellaneous pile of stones. Rock gardens in their true sense 
are an imitation of some condition of nature, both from their physical 
makeup and from their planting. We should therefore make a 
double effort to strive toward the development of the idea. 

One of the most successful ways for obtaining good rock garden 
plants is to grow them from seed. It is often easier to seed plants 
in rock garden groups than it is to plant nursery-grown stock. 

LIST OF PLANTS VALUABLE FOR USE IN ROCK GARDENS, 
IN JAPANESE GARDENS, AND IN WALL CREVICES 

A. Evergreens. In every garden development of this kind, a 
touch of evergreen foliage, the texture of which is peculiar to evergreen 
plantings, is essential to lend the desired interest to the garden. These 
evergreens are extremely dwarf in character and not vigorous in their 
habit of growth. 



Buxus sufruticosa 

Dwarf Box 
Chamaecyparis oblusa nana 

Dwarf Japanese Cypress 
Chamaecyparis obtusa nana aurea 

Dwarf Golden Japanese Cypress 
Cornus canadensis 

Bunchberry 
Daphne cneorum 

Garland Flower 
Erica vagans 

Cornish Heath 
Gaultheria procumbens 

Wintergreen 
Juniperus communis 

Common Juniper 



Juniperus sabina 

Savin Juniper 
Juniperus sabina iamariscifolia 

Tamarisk-leaved Savin 
Linnaea borealis 

Twin Flower 
Mahonia repens 

Creeping Mahonia 
Pachistima canbyi 

Canby's Mountain Lover 
Pachysandra terminalis 

Japanese Spurge 
Picea excelsa gregoriana 

Gregory's Dwarf Norway Spruce 
Pieris floribunda 

Mountain Fetterbush 



ROCK AND JAPANESE GARDENS, WALL CREVICES 139 



Pinus montana mughus 

Dwarf Mountain Pine 
Pyxidanthera barbulata 

Flowering Moss 
Rhododendron carolinianum 

Dwarf Rhododendron 
Rhododendron ferrugineum 

Rusty-leaved Rhododendron 



Shortia galacifolia 

Shortia 
Taxus baccaia repandens 

Spreading English Yew 
Taxus canadensis 

Ground Yew 
Taxus cuspidata nana 

Japanese Yew 



B. Deciduous Trees AND Shrubs. Trees used in gardens of this 
kind must be the low-growing types with a compact habit of growth, 
and the shrubs also must be types which will lend themselves readily to 
the character of this kind of garden. It is hardly possible to define 
in words the exact character which the shrubbery must possess in order 
to be valuable for this type of planting. The trees and shrubs in 
this group may be used with safety, and there are many other shrubs 
which can be selected from other lists and used by experts. 



Acer palmatum 

Japanese Maple 
Azalea japonica 

Japanese Azalea 
Azalea nudiflora 

Pinkster Flower 
Cotoneaster adpressa 

Creeping Cotoneaster 
Cotoneaster horizontalis 

Prostrate Cotoneaster 
Deutzia gracilis 

Slender Deutzia 



Evonymus obovaius 

Running Strawberry Bush 
Hypericum moserianum 

Gold- flower 
Lonicera spinosa alberii 

Large-fruited Honeysuckle 
Philadelphus coronarius nanus 

Dwarf Mock Orange 
Rhodora canadensis 

Rhodora 
Viburnum opulus nanum 

Dwarf Bush Cranberry 



C. Perennials. This group of plants forms one of the most 
interesting phases of rock garden development. Most of these 
perennials are either heavy in their texture of foliage, or very dwarf in 
their habit of growth. They will adapt themselves to cultivation in the 
congested spaces so often found in garden developments of this kind. 



Achillea houle de neige 

Ball of Snow 
*Alyssum argenteum 

Silvery Madwort 
*Alyssum saxatile compactum 

Golden Tuft 
Anemone pennsylvanica 

Canadian Windflower 
AquSlegia canadensis 

American Columbine 



*Arabis alpina nana compacta 

Dwarf Alpine Rock Cress 
*Arenaria montana 

Sandwort 
Campanula carpaiica 

Carpathian Harebell 
Centaurea montana 

Mountain Bluet 
*Cerastium tomentosum 

Snow-in-summer 



*PIants especially well adapted for use in crevices of walls and paved areas. 



140 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



Ceratostigma plumbaginoides 

Leadwort 
Coreopsis verticillala 

Dwarf Tickseed 
Coronilla varia 

Crown Vetch 
Dalibarda repens 

Barren Strawberry 
*Dianthus delloides 

Maiden Pink 
*Dianthus plumarius 

Scotch Pink 
Dicentra eximia 

Wild Bleeding Heart 
Dodecatheon media 

Shooting Star 
Draba azoides 

Aizoon-Iike Whitlow Grass 
Epimedium macranthum 

Japanese Barrenwort 
Erysimum pulchellum 

Rock-loving Hedge Mustard 
Euphorbia corollata 

Flowering Spurge 
Geranium sanguineum 

Crane's Bill 
Hedera helix conglomerata 

Small-leaved English Ivy 
Helianthemum croceum 

Rock Rose 
Heuchera brizoides 

Red Coral-bells 
Heuchera sanguinea 

Coral-bells 
Iberis sempervirens 

Evergreen Candytuft 
Iris cristata 

Crested Iris 
Linaria cymbalaria 

Kenilworth Ivy 
Linaria cymbalaria maxima 

Large-flowered Kenilworth Ivy 
Linum perenne 

F'erennial Flax 
Lychnis viscaria splendens 

Ragged Robin 
Mitchella repens 

Partridge Berry 

Fiola (various 
Violet 



Ncpeta mussini 

Catmint 
Pachysandra ierminalis 

Japanese Spurge 
*Phlox stolonifera 

Creeping Phlox 
Phlox subulata 

Moss Pink 
Primula veris 

English Cowslip 
Ranunculus acris /lore pleno 

Double Buttercup 
Saponaria ocymoides 

Rock Soapwort 
Saxifraga cordijolia 

Saxifrage 
*Sedum acre 

Mossy Stonecrop 
*Sedurn album 

White Stonecrop 
*Sedum sexangulare 

Dark Green Stonecrop 
Sedum spectabile 

Brilliant Stonecrop 
Silene maritima 

Seaside Campion 
Silene pennsylvanica 

Wild Pink 
Silene schafla 

Autumn Campion 
Slellaria holostea 

Starwort 
Stokesia cyanea 

Stokes' Aster 
Thalictrum aquilegijolium 

Meadow-rue 
*Thymus serpyllum languinosus 

Downy Thyme 
*Tunica saxifraga 

Saxifrage-like Tunica 
Vancouveria hexandra 

American Barrenwort 
Veronica incana 

Hoary Speedwell 
* Veronica repens 

Creeping Speedwell 
Vinca minor 

Periwinkle < 

species) 



*Plants especially well adapted for use in crevices of walls and paved areas. 



CHAPTER XVI 
PLANTS FOR HEAVY FORMAL EFFECTS 

While many trees and shrubs in the hands of expert designers and 
gardeners may be used interchangeably for either formal or informal 
effects, the fact still remains that there is a group of plants which are 
best adapted for use to produce the heavier and more compact formal 
effects. The effect of formality is obtained by emphasizing geometric 
lines or surfaces. Plants which are upright, slow-growing, and more 
compact in their habit, are better adapted for this purpose than 
plants which are more vigorous in their habit of growth, more spread- 
ing, and looser in texture and therefore less apt to retain a consistent, 
definite form. 

The expert may select plants from Chapter XVII and in many in- 
stances produce an effect equally as attractive as that produced 
by plants in this group. The possibilities of failure, however, are 
much greater, and the subsequent necessity of pruning to retain ap- 
proximate forms is much greater. 

1 We speak of heavy formality as a contrasting term to plants which 
are loose. Compact may be a better word. It is often necessary to 
develop border plantations surrounding lawns filled with a feeling of 
formality, because of numerous axial lines, and also to surround or 
border definite formal garden areas with trees and shrubs. To be 
successful these masses of plants must lend themselves to this formal 
effect. They must be such as can be kept within definite limits with 
the normal amount of pruning. The European hornbeam, the red 
cedar, pyramidal arborvitae, and tartarian honeysuckle are excellent 
illustrations of this type of material. A so-called formal effect in a 
border planting is not necessarily produced by the use of trees. It 
may be equally well produced by shrubs depending upon the scale 
of the landscape setting. It is not necessary either to resort to 
the use of evergreens, although there are certain types of architectural 
details beside which deciduous plantings appear "weak." Climatic 
conditions being favourable for a normal growth of the type of material 

141 



142 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

best suited, the decision to use evergreens or deciduous material will 
be governed by the effect which is desired. 

Topiary work as a type of planting producing formal effects is the 
extreme of artificial methods. Trees and shrubs which are selected 
for this purpose are included almost without exception in the group 
known as "evergreens and broad-leaved evergreens," such as the yews, 
holly, and boxwoods. The hawthorn and the beech are the marked 
exceptions to this general rule, and are plants capable of severe pruning 
to produce artificial and fantastic shapes. These plants must lend 
themselves readily to frequent and to serere prunings in order to 
produce these forms. While topiary work as a matter of design is ex- 
tremely limited in its application, there will often arise situations in 
which this extreme and violent treatment to produce the artificial 
forms in plants is justified. Topiary work has at times been very 
appropriately termed verdant sculpture. It is nothing more nor less 
than sculpture in plant forms so far as plants will lend themselves to 
details of such experiments. All of these plants which are especially 
adapted to topiary work arfe extremely slow growing and long lived. 
While many fantastic forms can be developed from such plants as the 
privet and hawthorn within a comparatively short period, the rare, 
more perfect, and permanent forms are usually the result of using the 
boxwood or yew. Most of these trees which are adapted to topiary 
work, especially the pyramidal form of topiary work, are upright grow- 
ing, single-stemmed specimens. Plants which are adapted to these 
effects must also be of a compact texture with foliage evenly developed 
to a point close to the ground. 

There are many deciduous plants which, while not being adapted to 
topiary work, are adapted to close shearing to produce formal effects. 
Many experts do not rfealize that there are various species of the same 
genera which lend themselves much more effectively to close shearing 
in definite forms than other species of that genera. The Japanese 
privet is much more effective in the lower hedge of two to four feet, 
because of its tendency to "mat," than the Amoor River privet, which 
has a tendency to make long growths. All of the deciduous plants in 
these groups are comparatively slow in growing habit. They have a 
tendency to frequent branching and a further tendency to throw out 
new growths from dormant buds when the ends of the existing branches 
are removed. 

While there is a considerable list of plants which are adapted for 



PLANTS FOR HEAVY FORMAL EFFECTS 143 

grov7mg in tubs, as frequently seen, for accent points in a formal 
garden or on a terrace, the amateur should best confine himself to the 
Japanese laurel, the evergreen evonymus, the greenhouse hydrangea, 
pyramidal arborvitae, and the boxwood. Most of these should be 
transferred during the winter months, preferably to a cold cellar or 
to a cold house, and even those which are semi-hardy, if left out of 
doors, should be carefully boxed and protected. 

Perhaps the most interesting groups of trees and shrubs for formal 
effects are those which are valuable for use in pleached allees. This 
feature in the design of large estates has not yet reached its height and 
will become more popular with the development of landscape design as 
applied to American estates and gardens. The plants of this group 
must be resistant to disease and insect pests and they must be able to 
thrive under conditions of severe pruning. The one most important 
requisite is that they shall be long lived and not easily broken by win- 
ter storms. The texture of branching must be close. To use for 
pleached allees trees, such as the birches, which are short lived and which 
always begin to deteriorate at a time when the allee should be most 
picturesque and at its height, is landscape folly. It takes years, 
five to eight years, to develop a pleached allee so that the tops will come 
together. To endeavour to hasten the growth of plants by excessive 
fertilization during the first two or three years will have a tendency to 
split the bark and to expose the trunks to severe injury from freezing 
and rotting. These plants should be of a spreading habit of growth as 
contrasted with the columnar habit of growth desired for open allees. 
While these specimens are planted at intervals of eighteen to twenty- 
four inches in rows, it often becomes necessary to interplant with the 
smaller specimens which will serve as fillers for the base. The normal 
distance between rows on either side of a pleached allee is six feet to eight 
feet. It is most advisable to train these plants to the pleached form 
by the use of iron pipe and wire. This can be done by a skilled gar- 
dener, by constant attention and the frequent use of pruning shears. 

Trees and shrubs for open allees must meet the one requirement of 
being close growing and columnar in their habit. An open allee may 
be developed with rapid-growing material as well as with slow-grow- 
ing material, and the time required is less than two-thirds as long as 
the time required to develop a pleached allee of the same height. 
Six to ten years may be required to develop an open allee eight to ten 
feet in height. The scale of the allee, whether wide, with a tall border 



144 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

on either side, or narrow, with a lower border, governs the type of 
material which should be selected. Here again, with such plants as 
the thorns and elms, a larger specimen may be used with a high head, 
and the smaller specimens may be planted between and on either side 
to produce the mass of foliage at the bottom. An illustration of this is 
shown in Plate No. XXVH on Page 198. This interesting open alleeof 
thorns and flowering dogwood is planted according to the following 
measurements. The distance between the middle line of each row of 
thorns is twenty-two feet s x inches. Each row was originally planted 
with high-headed thorns at a distance of four feet six inches apart in the 
row. Equally spaced at a distance approximating one foot six inches 
apart, small specimens two feet to three feet high were planted in a 
single row at a distance of one foot six inches on either side<of the main 
row of thorns. These small thorns were for the purpose of producing a 
foliage effect beginning at the ground and extending into the higher 
heads of the larger thorns. The width between the rows of flowering 
dogwood is eight feet and the distance between each flowering dog- 
wood plant in each row is eight feet. The width of the walk in this 
picture is four feet. It is very essential to use types which have a 
branching habit to the extreme base of the main trunk if a perfect 
open allee is desired. 

LIST OF PLANTS FOR HEAVY FORMAL EFFECTS 

A. Border Planting. This group of trees and shrubs is composed 
of those specimens which either lend themselves to a natural, compact 
efl"ect when pruned, or which possess an even, close habit of growth, 
fitting them particularly for formal eff^ects. Plants used for this 
purpose should not be those which have a tendency to sucker and to 
make any indifferent growths in diff^erent directions. 

Acer saccharinum pyramidale Hibiscus syriacus 

Pyramidal Silver Maple Rose of Sharon 

Acer saccharum moyutmentale Juniperus cnmmutiis hibernica 

Columnar Sugar Maple Irish Juniper 

Betula alba fastigiata Juniperus communis ruecica 

Pyramidal White Birch Swedish Juniper 

Carpinus betuius Juniperus virginiana 

European Hornbeam Red Cedar 

Catalpa bungei Juniperus virginiana cannarii 

Round-leaved Catalpa Columnar Tufted Cedar 

Cercidiphyllum japonicum Juniperus virginiana glauca 

Kadsura Tree Blue Virginia Cedar 



PLANTS FOR HEAVY FORMAL EFFECTS 



145 



Juniperus virginiana schotii 

Schott's Red Cedar 
Lonicera tatarica 

Tartarian Honeysuckle 
Picea excelsa pyramidalis 

Pyramidal Norway Spruce 
Populus alha pyramidalis 

Bolle's Poplar 



Populus nigra italica 

Lombardy Poplar 
Quercus robur fastigiata 

English Oak 
Sciadopitys verticillata 

Umbrella Pine 
Thuja occidentalis pyramidalis 

Pyramidal Arborvitae 



B. Topiary Work and Close Shearing. The plants in these two 
groups (a and b) are selected because they will adapt themselves, with 
careful attention, to close shearing and interesting topiary work. There 
are many plants which if sheared closely do not produce any effect of 
foliage until they have recovered from the pruning. All these speci- 
mens, however, can be sheared and still retain a mass foliage effect. 



a. Evergreen: 

Buxus (all sorts) 
Boxwood 

Chamaecyparis nootkatensis 

Yellow Cedar 
Chamaecyparis obtusa nana 

Dwarf Japanese Cypress 
Ilex crenata 

Japanese Holly 
Picea excelsa 

Norway Spruce 
Picea orientalis 

Oriental Spruce 



Pinus cembra 

Swiss Stone Pine 
Pinus densiflora umbraculifera 

Dwarf Japanese Red Pine 
Pinus montana 

Swiss Mountain Pine 
Pinus montana mughus 

Dwarf Mountain Pine 



Taxus cuspidata 
Japanese Yew 
Taxus cuspidata nana 
Japanese Yew 
Tsuga canadensis 
Canadian Hemlock 



b. Deciduous: 



Acer campestre 

European Cork Maple 
jlcer platanoides globosum 

Globe Norway Maple 
Berberis thunbergi 

Thunberg's Japanese Barberry 
Car pinus betulus 

European Hornbeam 
Carpimis betulus globosa 

Globe Hornbeam 
Catalpa bignonioides nana 

Dwarf Indian Bean 
Cornus paniculata 

Grey Dogwood 



Crataegus crus-galli 

Cockspur Thorn 
Crataegus oxycantha 

May Thorn 
Evonymus alatus 

Cork-barked Burning Bush 
Ilex glabra 

Inkberry 
Ligu strum ibota 

Japanese Privet 
Ligustrum vulgare 

European Privet 
Viburnum opulus nanum 

Dwarf Bush Cranberry 



Viburnum prunifolium 
Black Haw 



146 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

C. Growing in Tubs. One of the most successful sources of 
obtaining refinement of detail in formal work is through the use of 
plants grown in tubs. These are particularly adapted to terraces, areas 
around pools, and places where plants must be trained for a specific 
detailed effect, and oftentimes cannot be planted in the ground at the 
place where the effect is desired. 

Abelia grandiflora Hydrangea opuloides otaksa 

Hybrid Abelia Hydrangea 

Agapanthus umbellatus Lagersiroemia indica 

Blue Lily-of-the-Nile Crape Myrtle 

Allamanda (in variety) Laur-us nobilis 

Allamanda Fine Bay Tree 

Aucuba japonica Musa ensete 

Japanese Laurel Abyssinian Banana 

Bougainvillea (in variety) Nerium (in variety) 

Paper Flower Oleander 

Buxus (many sorts) Pyracantha coccinea lalandi 

Boxwood Evergreen Thorn 

Caryopteris incana Thuja occidentalis pyramidalis 

Blue Spirea Pyramidal Arborvitae 

Ehagnus pungens Tabernaemontana (in variety) 

Bronze Oleaster Crape Jasmine 

Evonymus japonicus Trained fruit trees 

Evergreen Evonymus (all sorts) 

Hibiscus rosa-sinensis Vitex agnus-castus 

Chinese Hibiscus Chaste Tree 

D. Trees and Shrubs for Allees. All plants which are adapted 
to allee effects must be of a type which will respond to the operations 
of severe pruning. Those plants in Group a must have a special 
adaptation for a spreading habit of growth and yet a compact habit of 
growth. They must be such plants as will retain their foliage during a 
considerable period in order to produce and maintain the pleached 
allee effect. The deciduous and evergreen trees and shrubs shown in 
Group b of this list are all adapted to types of open allee developments 
on different scales, to be in keeping with the general landscape effect. 

a. Pleached 

Acer campestre Corylus maxima 

European Cork Maple Filbert 

Carpinus caroliniana Crataegus oxycantha 

American Hornbeam May Thorn 

Carpinus betulus Fagus syhatica 

European Hornbeam European Beech 



PLANTS FOR HEAVY FORMAL EFFECTS 



Quercus laurifolia (South of Washington) 

Laurel Oak 
Rhamnus cathartica 

Common Buckthorn 



Salix pentandra 

Laurel-leaved Willow 
Ulmus campesiris 

English Elm 



147 



b. Not pleached {Open Allees): 
I. Deciduous: 

Acer saccharinum pyramidale 

Pyramidal Silver Maple 
Acer saccharum monumentale 

Columnar Sugar Maple 
Betula alba fastigiata 

Pyramidal White Birch 
Crataegus oxycantha 

May Thorn 
Larix lepiolepsis 

Japanese Larch 
Populus nigra italica 

Lombardy Poplar 



Quercus rohur fastigiata 

English Oak 
Sorbus quercifolia 

Oak-leaved Mountain Ash 
Taxodium distichum 

Bald Cypress 
Taxus baccata fastigiata 

Irish Yew 
Ulmus foliacea wheatleyi 

Wheatley's Cornish Elm 
Ulmus glabra fastigiata 

Columnar Elm 



2. Evergreen: 

Abies brachyphylla 

Nikko Fir 
Juniperus excelsa stricta 

Slender Greek Juniper 
Juniperus virginiana schotti 

Schott's Red Cedar 
Picea excelsa columnaris 

Columnar Norway Spruce 
Picea excelsa pyramidalis 

Pyramidal Norway Spruce 



Picea omorika 

Servian Spruce 
Thuja occidenialis lutea 

Oriental Arborvitae 
Thuja occidentalis wareana 

Siberian Arborvitae 
Thuja orientalis (northern grown) 

Oriental Arborvitae 
Thuja plicata 

Western Arborvitae 



CHAPTER XVII 
PLANTS FOR NATURAL, INFORMAL EFFECTS 

As CONTRASTED With plants adapted to heavy or compact formal 
effects the plants of this group have a more open, looser habit of 
growth. They are apt to be not quite as refined in character in some 
instances, and they are not required to produce the neat line of foliage 
which are part of the more formal designs. 

It is difficult to define clearly, and to specify, what plants are to be 
used in informal effects. At the same time, a few standard kinds of 
plants to be used in the border plantations of lawns, in the border 
plantations of wild garden areas and informal garden areas should be 
listed for ready reference. It is much easier to use some of the plants 
included in the former list, especially those with the more vigorous, 
open habit of growth, for this type of planting, than to use plants in- 
cluded in this list for the same purpose as those included in the former 
list. Most large and small lawns which are not developed on definite, 
formal axial lines, should be bordered with plants of this kind. 

The reader is warranted in concluding that all plants not adapted for 
use in the preceding groups of plants for formal effects are automatic- 
ally placed in this present group. It is safe to select any plant in- 
digenous to the locality and also many of the introduced horticultural 
varieties, such as high-bush cranberry, flowering currant and dogwoods. 
Lilacs, tartarian honeysuckle, and hybrid rhododendrons, however, with 
greater refinement of foliage and of bloom, on the other hand, are 
obviously of more value in the more formal plantings. 

Collected stock is of great value for natural, informal effects. To 
reproduce nature and her group effects should be the object of natural, 
informal planting. A natural planting impresses the observer as does 
nature untouched by the hand of the designer, and this is a most 
difficult effect to obtain artificially. 

LIST OF PLANTS FOR NATURAL, INFORMAL EFFECTS 

It is difficult to define the effects which it is intended to produce 
through the use of plants included in this list. In general, these 

148 



PLANTS FOR NATURAL, INFORMAL EFFECTS 149 

plants are selected because they are somewhat irregular in outline, 
loose in habit and texture of growth, and are not adapted to producing 
the neat lines of foliage required in formal development. 



Amelanchier oblongijolia 

Shad-bush 
Amelanchier rotundifolia 

June Berry 
Chionanthus virginica 

White Fringe 
Cornus (in variety) 

Dogwood 
Deutzia (in variety) 

Deutzia 
Diervilla (in variety) 

Weigela 
Forsythia suspensa 

Drooping Golden Bell 
Hippophae rhamnoides 

Sea Buckthorn 
Laburnum vulgare 

Golden Chain 
Lonicera fragrantissima 

Early Fragrant Honeysuckle 
Philadelphus grandiflorus 

Large-flowered Mock Orange 
Phyjocarpus opulifoiius 

Ninebark 
Prunus avium plena 

European Double-flowering Cherry 



Ptelea irifoliata 

Hop Tree 
Rhododendroii (in variety) 

Native Varieties 
Rhus (in variety) 

Sumac 
Ribes (in variety) 

Flowering Currant 
Robinia pseudacacia 

Black Locust 
Rosa rugosa 

Japanese Rose 
Salix babylonica 

Weeping Willow 
Sambucus canadensis 

American Elder 
Spiraea vanhouttei 

Van Houtte's Bridal Wreath 
Symphoricarpos racemosus 

Snowberry 
Symphoricarpos vulgaris 

Indian Currant 
Tamarix gallica 

French Tamarisk 
Viburnum opulus 

High-bush Cranberry 



CHAPTER XVIII 

LOW-GROWING PLANTS ALONG THE INNER SIDE OF 
CURVING ROADWAYS AND AT ENTRANCES 

Plants which are selected for use in this group must have a normally 
low-growing habit. In general, their maximum height should ap- 
proximate not more than five to six feet. 

If the eventual height of these plants is to be greater than this, they 
should be of such types as will lend themselves readily to pruning and 
still retain their natural outlines. 

On many private estates, at the sharp curves of entrance drives and 
on either side of the main entrance, safety of traffic demands that an 
open view be preserved in order to avoid accidents. It becomes an 
important question in the development of such plans to decide upon 
material which should be selected for this purpose. If the degree of 
care which this material is to receive in the years subsequent to its 
original planting is that ordinarily given by an expert gardener, the 
designer may select many taller-growing species of shrubs, which, under 
this expert care, can be kept within the desired limits of growth. For 
those who wish to be perfectly safe in their selection, material included 
in this list represents the general range of the important genera and 
species which are available. 

There are many locations where high planting as a part of the 
general design is more desirable. In such instances a vista formed by 
using a group of lower shrubs can be used. If higher shrubs are desirable 
as a part of the design it is sometimes possible to preserve the open 
views by setting the tall shrubs farther back from the sides of the drive. 

The fragrant honeysuckle is a good substitute where one might other- 
wise use types such as the tartarian honeysuckle. The pink weigela 
is much to be preferred to the other, coarser-growing tjpes of weigelas. 

LIST OF LOW-GROWING PLANTS ALONG THE INNER SIDE 
OF CURVING ROADWAYS AND AT ENTRANCES 

The plants in this group are selected because of their low-growing 
habit. Many other specimens may be used, which under the care of 

ISO 



LOW-GROWING PLANTS 



151 



an expert gardener can be kept within definite bounds. Where open 
views are essential and expert care is lacking, the plants indicated 
in these groups should be used. 



A. Evergreen: 

Andromeda polifolia 

Wild Rosemary 
Chamaedaphne calyculata 

Leather-leaf 
Evonymus radicans carrieri 

Carrier's Japanese Evergreen Ivy 
Evonymus radicans vegetus 

Scarlet-fruited Japanese Evergreen Ivy 
Juniperiis communis depressa 

Dwarf Juniper 
Juniperus horizo7italis 

Trailing Juniper 
Juniperus sabina tamariscifolia 

Tamarisk-leaved Savin 
Juniperus virginiana tripartita 

Spreading Red Cedar 
Kalmia angustifolia 

Sheep Laurel (except clay or lime soil) 



Mahonia repens 

Creeping Mahonia 
Picea excelsa gregoriana 

Gregory's Dwarf Norway Spruce 
Picea excelsa nana 

Dwarf Norway Spruce 
Pieris floribunda 

Mountain Fetterbush 
Taxus baccata repandens 

Spreading English Yew 
Taxus cuspidata brevijolia 

Short-leaved Japanese Yew 
Thuja occidentalis globosa 

Globe Arborvitae 
Thuja occidentalis (Little Gem) 

Little Gem Arborvitae 
Yucca filamentosa 

Adam's Needle 



Yucca flaccida 
Drooping-leaved Adam's Needle 



B. Deciduous: 

Amorpha canescens 

Lead Plant 
Ceanothus americanus 

New Jersey Tea 
Celastrus orbiculatus 

Japanese Bittersweet 
Deutzia gracilis 

Slender Deutzia 
Deutzia lemoi?iei 

Lemoine's Deutzia 
Deutzia rosea 

Dwarf Pink Deutzia 
Diervilla trifida 

Bush Honeysuckle 
Evonymus obovatus 

Running Strawberry Bush 
Itea virginica 

Virginian Willow 



Lonicera fragrantissima 

Early Fragrant Honeysuckle 
Lonicera japonica halliana 

Japanese Honeysuckle 
Lonicera spinosa alberti 

Large-fruited Honeysuckle 
Myrica cerifera 

Bayberry 
Rosa Carolina 

Carolina Rose 
Rosa setigera 

Prairie Rose 
Rosa spinosissima altaica 

Scotch Rose 
Rosa wichuraiana 

Memorial Rose 
Viburnum opulus nanum 

Dwarf Bush Cranberry 
Xanthorrhiza apiifolia 
Yellowroot 



CHAPTER XIX 

TREES AND SHRUBS FOR DIFFERENT FLOWERING 
EFFECTS 

Perhaps the most important use of plants is for the effect of the 
flowers. At least nmety per cent, of those who develop landscape 
plantations have foremost in their minds the effect that is to be 
produced by the flowers on the trees and shrubs grown in the 
plantation, whether it be on a large estate or on a small home lot. 
There are many other valuable characteristics, however, among 
which are the fruiting and the foliage eflFects. All of these, however, 
are entirely secondary to this one consideration concerning the 
flowers. 

The first thought in the use of shrubs for this purpose is to obtain 
flowers. It is only after some study and some thought on the subject 
that one realizes that shrubs may be used for many different flowering 
effects. We may use trees and shrubs to produce flowers at certain 
definite seasons, or we may use trees and shrubs to produce flowers of 
diflFerent colours at different seasons. The owner of the average home 
occupies his residence throughout the entire year. There is a group 
of people, however, owning both large and small homes, who occupy 
two or more homes each year, depending upon the season. They 
usually spend the spring and fall months at their residence, and hot 
summer months at a country home, either at the seashore or among the 
mountains. The first home owner must be provided with trees and 
shrubs which will produce as nearly as possible a flowering effect 
throughout the growing season, beginning with the shrubs which 
produce flowers before the leaves appear, such as the golden bell and 
the flowering plums, and ending with the shrubs such as altheas and the 
hydrangeas which produce flowers in the summer months. The 
family that occupies both a permanent residence and a country 
home, however, must have trees and shrubs surrounding the former 
which produce flowers during the spring and during the late summer 
and fall months; and at their summer home they must have, so far as 



TREES AND SHRUBS FOR FLOWERING EFFECTS 153 

possible, the summer-flowering types of trees and shrubs. For this 
reason, various groups have been outlined to embrace trees and shrubs 
producing flowers in the early sprmg before the leaves appear, and 
producing flowers in the early sprmg after the leaves appear, such as 
the spirea and the lilac; producing flowers during the summer months, 
such as the weigela and the mock orange; and producing flowers 
during the late summer and autumn months, such as the rose of Sharon 
and the hydrangea. It is therefore important in connection with our 
various plantations of trees and shrubs to consider specifically the 
period during the blooming season, when the maximum eflFect of flowers 
is desired. 

The second important consideration, in designing plantings of trees 
and shrubs, is the colour of the flowers. Flowering trees and shrubs, 
with respect to the colour of their flowers, may be divided into four 
definite groups: those which produce flowers in the shades of red and 
pink, such as pink-flowering dogwood, flowering peach, and the 
flowering crab; those which produce yellow flowers, such as the Scotch 
broom, yellow jasmine, and the golden bell; those which produce white 
flowers, such as the white fringe, hawthorn, hydrangea, and elders; 
and those which produce blue flowers (the smallest list of all), such as 
the blue spirea, blue rose of Sharon, and blue lilacs. Each of these 
groups may be divided, as shown by the tabulations, into early- 
flowering and late summer-flowering sorts. The entire discussion 
concerning the colour of the flowers in the average planting is more 
theoretical than practical; but in the other plantations, where there 
is sufficient space to obtain masses of flowering effects during the 
blooming period, considerable study should be given to the colour of 
the flowers. 

The small home owner in general is much more interested in his 
ability to procure trees and shrubs which will give him a continuous 
succession of bloom. This also is not always practical; but there is a 
group of standard shrubs, the use of which will provide as continuous 
bloom as can be obtained through the combination of any group of 
shrubs. It must be remembered that some varieties of shrubs will 
flower at a slightly later period than other varieties, and for this 
reason it is quite possible to obtain what seems to be a continuous 
series of bloom. The most prolific blooming shrubs, however, seem 
to flower during the months of May and June. During the latter 
part of July we have but a few shrubs, such as the hydrangea, the 



154 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

rose of Sharon, and the groundsel tree, which will produce flower 
efl^ects. 



LIST OF TREES AND SHRUBS FOR DIFFERENT FLOWERING 
EFFECTS 

A. Producing Flowers in Early Spring Before the Leaves 
Appear. The trees and shrubs included in this group produce, when 
in bloom, a very interesting colour note in a landscape which has been 
uninteresting during the winter months. Most of these plants pro- 
duce their best effect when used in small masses; their effect in large 
masses is increased only in proportion to the extensivencss of the 
landscape setting in which they are planted. Many interesting 
colour effects can be produced by the proper selection of plants from 
this group. 

Acer ruhrum. Forsythia (in variety) 

Red Maple Golden Bell 

Amelanchier oblongijolia Hamamelis japonica 

Shad-bush Japanese Witch Hazel 

Azalea lutea Lonicera fragrantissima 

Flame-coloured Azalea Early Fragrant Honeysuckle 

Azalea nudiflora Lonicera standishi 
j Pinkster Flower Standish's Bush Honeysuckle 

Azalea vaseyi Magnolia (Asiatic varieties) 

Carolina Azalea Magnolia 

Benzoin aestivale Mahonia aquifolium 

Spice Bush Oregon Grape 

Cercis canadensis Prunus (in variety) 

Red-bud Japanese Flowering Cherry 

^ Ckaenomeles japonica Prunus triloba 

Japanese Quince Flowering Plum 

Cornus florida Salix caprea 

Flowering Dogwood Goat Willow 

Daphne cneorum Spiraea arguta 

Garland Flower Hybrid Snow Garland 

Spiraea prunifolia flore plena 
Bridal Wreath 

B. Producing Flowers in Early Spring After the Leaves Ap- 
pear. Through a careful selection of plants the season of bloom from 
flowering trees and shrubs can be made almost continuous. There 
are many trees and shrubs which flower during the early spring after 
the leaves appear. Only those trees and shrubs which produce an 



TREES AND SHRUBS FOR FLOWERING EFFECTS 155 

abundance of flowers, effective against a background of green foliage, 
are given here. 



^ 



Aesculus (in variety) 

Horse-chestnut 
Azalea japonica 

Japanese Azalea 
Caragana arborescens 

Siberian Pea Shrub 
Chionanihus virginica 

White Fringe 
Cornvs alternijolia 

Alternate-leaved Dogwood 
Cornus stolonifera 

Red Osier Cornel 
Crataegus (in variety) 

Thorn 
Deulzia (in variety) 

Deutzia 
Exochorda grandiflora 

Pearl Bush 
Halesia Carolina 

Silver Bell 
Lonicera bella 

Zabel's Honeysuckle 
Lonicera morroivi 

Japanese Bush Honeysuckle 



Lonicera tatarica 

Tartarian Honeysuckle 
Magnolia glauca 

Swamp Magnolia 
Pyrus (in variety) 

Crab 
^ Rhodotypos kerrioides 

White Kerria 
Ribes aureum 

Flowering Currant 
Rosa cinnamomea 

Cinnamon Rose 
Sambucus racemosa 

Red-berried Elder 
Spiraea arguta 

Hybrid Snow Garland 
Spiraea vanhotittei 

Van Houtte's Bridal Wreath 
Syringa (in variety) 

Lilac 
Viburnum prunifolium 

Black Haw 
Viburn-um iomentosum 

Single Japanese Snowball 



-=7 



C. Producing Flowers During Early Summer. The largest 
group of flowering trees and shrubs is that containing the types which 
flower during the early summer months. Carefully selected groupings 
of these plants may produce a continuous flower effect through June 
and July. 



Astilbe japonica 

Japanese Astilbe 
Catalpa (in variety) 

Indian Bean 
Cladrastis lute a 

Yellow-wood 
Cornus alba sibirica • 

Siberian Dogwood 
Cornus paniculata 

Grey Dogwood 
Diervilla hybrida 

Hybrid Weigela 
Hydrangea arborescens sterilis 

Hills of Snow 



Kalmia latifolia 

Mountain Laurel 
Koelreuteria paniculata 

Varnish Tree 
Ligustrum ibota 

Japanese Privet 
Philadelphus (in variety) 

Mock Orange 
Rhododendron catazvbiense hybridum 

Hybrid Rhododendron 
Rhus cotinus 

Smoke Bush 
Robinia pseudacacia 

Black Locust 



IS6 

Roses (in variety) 

Roses 
Rubus deliciosus 

Rocky Mountain Flowering Raspberry 
Sambucus canadensis 

American Elder 
Spiraea salicifolia 

Meadow-sweet 
Syringa japonica 

Tree Lilac 
Viburnum carlesi 

Korean Viburnum 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



-5 



Fiburnum cassinoides 

Withe-rod 
Viburnum dentatum 

Arrow-wood 
Viburnum lentago 

Sheep Berry 
Viburnum opulus 

High-bush Cranberry 
Fiburnum sieboldi 

Siebold's Viburnum 
Xanthoceras sorbijolia 

Chinese Flowering Chestnut 



D. Producing Flowers During Late Summer and Early 
Autumn. There are comparatively few trees and shrubs which pro- 
duce an interesting flowering effect during the late summer months 
and during the early autumn. This group is composed of those plants 
whose flowers are effective in the landscape. 



Baccharis halimifolia 

Groundsel Bush 
Buddleia veitchiana 

Summer Lilac 
- '" Clethra alnifolia 

Sweet Pepper Bush 
Elsholtzia staunl07ii 

Elsholtzia 
Ilamamelis virginiana 

Witch Hazel 
^ Hibiscus syriacus 

Rose of Sharon 
Hydrangea arborescens 

Wild Hydrangea 
Hydrangea paniculala 

Panicled Hydrangea 
Hydrangea paniculala grandiflora 

Large-flowered Hydrangea 
Hypericum (in variety) 

St. John's Wort 



Lespedeza japonicum 

White-flowering Desmodium 
Lespedeza sieboldi 

Siebold's Desmodium 
Oxydendrum arboreum 

Sourwood " 
Poientilla frulicosa 

Shrubby Cinquefoil 
Sorbaria arborea glabrata 

Chinese Mountain Ash Spirea 
Spiraea billardi 

Billiard's Spirea 
Spiraea bumalda anihony waterer 

Crimson Spirea 
Spiraea callosa alba 

Fortune's White Spirea 
Stezt'artia penlagyna 

Alleghany Stewartia 
Tamarix (in variety) 

Tamarisk 



Fitex agnus-castus 
Chaste Tree 

E. Producing Flowers in Shades of Red and Pink. In the 
development of interesting colour combinations for the flowers in 
landscape planting some definite association of colour schemes should 
be listed to assist one more readily in the selection of plants for vary- 
ing colour effects. All plants in the following group produce flowers 
in shades of red and pink. The early-flowering sorts are shown in 



TREES AND SHRUBS FOR FLOWERING EFFECTS 157 

Group a and the late spring and summer-flowering sorts are shown in 
Group h. 



a. Early-flowering sorts: 

Azalea nudiflora 

Pinkster Flower 
Azalea vaseyi 

Carolina Azalea 
Cercis canadensis 

Red-bud 
Cornus florida rubra 

Red-flowering Dogwood 
Kalmia angustifolia 

Sheep Laurel 
Magnolia soulangeana 

Soulange's Magnolia 
P run us besseyi 

Western Sand Cherry 
Primus japonica (in variety) 

Flowering Almond 



Primus persica vulgaris 

Common Peach 
Prunus subhirtella (in variety) 

Japanese Flowering Cherry 
Prunus tomentosa 

Japanese Plum 
Pyrus angustifolia 

Narrow-leaved Crab 
Pyrus coronaria 

"Wild Crab 
Py rus flo rib u n da 

Flowering Crab 
Pyrus halliana parkmani 

Parkman's Crab 
Rhodora canadensis 

Rhodora 



b. Late spring and summer-flowering sorts: 



Deuizia rosea 

Dwarf Pink Deutzia 
Diervilla florida 

Rose-coloured Weigela 
Kalmia latifolia 

Mountain Laurel 



Pyrus ioensis bechteli 

Bechtel's Crab 
Roses (in variety) 

Roses 
Spiraea bumalda anthony waterer 
Crimson Spirea 
Spiraea tomentosa 
Hardback 



F. Producing Yellow Flowers. Until the trees and shrubs pro- 
ducing yellow flowers are grouped the reader can hardly appreciate 
how great is the wealth of this material. The group is divided, as are 
the preceding groups in the chapter, into the early-flowering types 
and the late-flowering types. 



a. Early-flowering sorts: 

Benzoin aesiivale 

Spice Bush 
Berberis (in variety) 

Barberry 
Cornus mas 

Cornelian Cherry 
Corylopsis paucifiora 

Japanese Flowering Hazel 



Cytisus scoparius 

Scotch Broom 
Eleagnus angustifolia 

Russian Olive 
Eleagnus longipes 

Japanese Oleaster 
Forsvthia (in variety) 

Golden Bell 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



Hamamelis japonica 
Japanese Witch Hazel 

Jasminum nudiflorum 
Naked-flowered Jasmine 

Lonicera fragrantissima 
Early Fragrant Honeysuckle 



Ribes aureum 

Flowering Currant 
Salix caprea 

Goat Willow 
Salix discolor 

Pussy Willow 



b. Late spring and summer-flowering sorts : 



Azalea lute a 

Flame-coloured Azalea 
Caragana arhorescens 

Siberian Pea Shrub 
Colutea arhorescens 

Bladder Senna 
Genista tinctoria 

Dyer's Greenweed 
Hypericum (in variety) 

St. John's Wort 
Kerria japonica 

Globe Flower 



Koelreuteria paniculata 

Varnish Tree 
Laburnum vulgare 

Golden Chain 
Potenlilla fruticosa 

Shrubby Cinquefoil 
Sophora japonica 

Japanese Pagoda Tree 
Rosa foetida {variety harisoni) 

Harrison's Yellow Rose 
Rosa hugonis 

Father Hugo's Rose 



G. Producing White Flowers. This group of plants is sub- 
divided in the same way as are the two preceding groups, and consists 
only of those plants producing white flowers in sufficient quantity and 
size to be an effective element in the landscape planting. 



Early-flowering sorts: 

Azalea viscosa 

Swamp Azalea 
Chionanthus virginica 

White Fringe 
Cornus (in variety) 

Dogwood 
Crataegus (in variety) 

Thorn 
Halesia Carolina 

Silver Bell 
Lonicera morrowi 

Japanese Bush Honeysuckle 



Lonicera tatarica alba 

White Tartarian Honeysuckle 
Magnolia stellata 

Starry Magnolia 
Prunus (in variety) 

Plum 
Spiraea arguta 

Hybrid Snow Garland 
Spiraea vanhouttei 

Van Houtte's Bridal Wreath 
Viburnum (in variety) 

Viburnum 



Late spring and summer-flowering sorts : 

Aesculus parviflora Hydrangea (in variety) 

Dwarf Horse-chestnut Hydrangea 

Cladrastis lutea Liguslrum (in variety) 

Yellow-wood Privet 

Clelhra alnifolia Philadelphus (in variety) 

Sweet Pepper Bush Mock Orange 

Deutzia (in variety) Physocarpus opulifolius 

Deutzia Ninebark 




Plate XXIV. An interior view of a pleached allee eight years after trans- 
planting. Note the spacing of the larger plants of the European cork maple 
at intervals of three feet, with "fillers" between each two of the larger trees. 
Compare with Plate No. XXVII on page 175 for the exterior view. Open- 
ings have been cut in the top of this allee to produce interesting spots of 
sunlight on the walk. (See page 146, group XVI-D-a, also frontispiece) 



TREES AND SHRUBS FOR FLOWERING EFFECTS 159 



Rhododendron (white) 

Rhododendron 
Rhodotypos kerrioides 

White Kerria 
Robinia pseudacacia 

Black Locust 
Rosa alba 

White-flowered Rose 
Rosa lucida alba 

White-flowered Glossy Rose 



Rosa multiflora 

Japanese Climbing Rose 
Rosa spinosissima 

Scotch Rose 
Sambucus canadensis 

American Elder 
Sambucus racemosa 

Red-berried Elder 
Spiraea prunijolia 

Bridal Wreath 



Stewartia pentagyna 
Alleghany Stewartia 

H. Producing Blue Flowers. The group of plants producing 
blue flowers is extremely limited. A few plants which are shown in 
this list are extremely interesting for their flowering effect and with 
the exception of the rose of Sharon and the lilac, many of them are 
seldom used. 



Amorpha fruticosa 

False Indigo 
Buddleia veitchiana 

Summer Lilac 
Caryopieris incana 

Blue Spirea 
Elsholtzia stauntoni 

Elsholtzia 



Hibiscus syriacus ardent 

Blue Rose of Sharon 
Paulownia tomentosa 

Empress Tree 
Syringa vulgaris. President Grevy 

Double Blue Lilac 
Fitex agnus-casius 

Chaste Tree 



I. Continuous Bloom from Twelve Shrubs. The reader should 
be able to refer to some list such as the following, which will provide 
him with a ready reference for the selection of shrubs giving a succession 
of bloom. The plants in this group, if properly arranged, will develop 
an interesting succession of bloom from the early spring until the late 
fall. 



Chaenomeles japonica 

Japanese Quince 
Diervilla hybrida 

Hybrid Weigela 
Forsyihia suspensa 

Drooping Golden Bell 
Hibiscus syriacus 

Rose of Sharon 
Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora 

Large-flowered Hydrangea 
Lonicera iatarica 

Tartarian Honeysuckle 



Philadelphus coronarius 

Common Mock Orange 
Sorbaria arborea glabrata 

Chinese Mountain Ash Spirea 
Spiraea bumalda anthony waterer 

Crimson Spirea 
Spiraea vanhouttei 

Van Houtte's Bridal Wreath 
Syringa vulgaris hybrida 

Hybrid Lilac 
Viburnum americanum 

American High-bush Cranberry 



CHAPTER XX 

PLANTS VALUABLE FOR THE CHARACTERISTICS OF 
THEIR FRUIT 

The charm of many landscape plantings during fall and early 
winter months is due almost entirely to the interesting effects produced 
by the fruit of various trees, shrubs, and vmes. Too little attention 
is given to the landscape value of plants because of their fruiting 
characteristics. It is the general impression that plants for landscape 
value have completed their greatest purpose when they have produced 
their foliage and flowers. As a matter of fact, instances may be 
common within the recollection of everyone where some interesting 
touch of colour in the landscape has been noticed and on further study 
has been found due entirely to the colour effect coming from a mass of 
hanging fruit. 

To those people who occupy their permanent homes only during the 
fall and winter months, and whose greatest enjoyment from their land- 
scape plantings should be produced by the fruiting effects, this is an 
important problem. It is admitted that many of our plants, such as the 
horse-chestnut, tree of heaven, honey locust, and hackberry, produce 
fruit which because of its littering habit is objectionable. These 
plants, however, are very few. The list of plants which produce fruit 
valuable because of certain characteristics such as interesting form 
and size, colour effects, and the ability to retain the fruit during the 
later winter months, includes many of our trees, shrubs, and vines that 
are valuable for their flowering effects also. This question is such an 
important one that each of the groups should be taken up in an in- 
dividual discussion. The value of plants for their fruits which attract 
our many bird friends presents such an interesting study that this has 
been taken up as a distinct part of this chapter. 

Among plants useful on the more refined lawn areas, where the de- 
tailed development of landscape plants is one of the most interesting 
features, there are a number of plants, such as the burning bush, cu- 
cumber tree, and the oriental plane, representative of the group pro- 

i6o 



PLANTS FOR FRUIT CHARACTERISTICS i6i 

ducing fruit singularly interesting and conspicuous because of its form. 
There are other trees such as the Kentucky coffee tree, the western 
catalpa, and the tulip tree, the fruit of which is interesting on account 
of its size. 

One of the most interesting characteristics of fruit is its colour. 
From the clear white fruit of the grey dogwood to the brilHant 
red fruit of the thorn there is a wonderful variation in colour effect 
produced by fruits. The beauty fruit, with its brilliant porcelain- 
blue berries, adds an interesting touch of colour to landscape 
plantings nearly as effective as that of flowers, if not more so. In 
many of these shrubs, such as some varieties of the thorn, the honey- 
suckle, and the elder, the beautiful colours of the fruit against the 
background of green foliage are extremely effective. The great 
majority of our shrubs retain their fruit for a greater or less period 
after the leaves have fallen. With the first signs of freezing and real 
winter weather these fruits rapidly wither and decay and those which 
are not removed by the birds soon drop from the plants. The fruit 
of the elderberries, roses, blue berries, and honeysuckles is dropped well 
before the middle of December, and even as early as the first of Decem- 
ber. In the average winter the fruit of the dogwoods, the spindle tree, 
the snowberry, and the burning bush retain their interesting colour 
until the early part of January. Of this group of plants there 
are many which retain their fruit well into the winter months. The 
Japanese barberry and the winterberry or deciduous holly hold their 
fruit much longer than the other plants, while the brilliantly coloured 
fruit of the bittersweet, the thorn, and the high-bush cranberry re- 
mains until the really severe winter weather begins. From a landscape 
point of view there is nothing much more effective in a pictorial com- 
position than the brilliantly coloured fruit and brilliantly coloured twigs 
of manyof our trees and shrubs presented against a background of snow. 

LIST OF PLANTS VALUABLE FOR THE CHARACTERISTICS 
OF THEIR FRUIT 

A. Producing Fruit of Peculiarly Interesting Form or Size. 
This group consists of types of plants which produce fruit that has a 
landscape value on account of its peculiarly interesting form and size. 
Practically all of our trees and shrubs produce fruit, but only those 
having fruit which is of real landscape value are listed in this and in 
succeeding groups. 



l62 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



Asimina triloba 

Paw-Paw 
Catalpa speciosa 

Western Catalpa 
Cephalanihus occidentalis 

Button Bush 
Colutea arborescens 

Bladder Senna 
Diospyros virginiana 

Persimmon 
Evonymus atropurpureus 

Burning Bush 
Cleditsia iriacanthos 

Honey Locust 
Gymnocladus dioica 

Kentucky Coffee Tree 

Fruit Trees 



Liquidamhar styraciflua 

Sweet Gum 
Liriodendron iuUpiJera 

Tulip Tree 
Madura pomijera 

Osage Orange 
Magnolia acuminata 

Cucumber Tree 
Platanus orientalis 

Oriental Plane 
Pyrus baccata (in variety) 

Siberian Flowering Crab 
Staphylea pinnata 

European Bladder-nut 
Staphylea trifolia 

American Bladder-nut 
(in variety) 



B. Producing Fruit Valuable for Its Colour Effects. The 
colour effect of fruit may be equally as effective as the colour effect of 
flowers. Some fruit is effective as a combination of colour against 
the background of green foliage. Other fruit is effective because 
of its colour at a season of the year when the foliage is gone. Many 
more plants should be used for the colour effect of the fruit than 
are now seen in our landscape plantings. 



jlcer rubrum 

Red Maple 
Aralia spinosa 

Hercules Club 
Berberis (in variety) 

Barberry 
Callicarpa purpurea 

Beauty Fruit 
Celastrus scandens 

American Bittersweet 
Chionanthus virginica 

White Fringe 
Colutea arborescens 

Bladder Senna 
Cornus alba sibirica 

Siberian Dogwood 
Cornus alternifolia 

Alternate-leaved Dogwood 
Cornus florida 

Flowering Dogwood 
Cornus paniculala 

Grey Dogwood 



Cornus stolonifera 

Red Osier Cornel 
Cotoneaster dielsiana 

Chinese Cotoneaster 
Cotoneaster divaricata 

Cotoneaster 
Cotoneaster horizontalis perpusilla 

Hybrid Prostrate Cotoneaster 
Cotoneaster hupehensis 

Cotoneaster 
Cotoneaster multiflora calocarpa 

Cotoneaster 
Cotoneaster racemiftora 

Cotoneaster 
Cotoneaster salicifolia floccosa 

Cotoneaster 
Crataegus (in variety) 

Thorn 
Eleagnus longipes 

Japanese Oleaster 
Evonymus alatus 

Cork-barked Burning Bush 



PLANTS FOR FRUIT CHARACTERISTICS 



163 



Evonymus amerxcanus 

Strawberry Bush 
Evonymus atropurpureu: 

Burning Bush 
Evonymus europaeus 

European Spindle Tree 
Hippophae rhamnoides 

Sea Buckthorn 
Ilex crenata 

Japanese Holly 
Ilex opaca 

American Holly 
Ilex verticillata 

Winterberry 
Ligustrum (in variety) 

Privet 
Lonicera morrowi 

Japanese Bush Honeysuckle 
Lonicera tatarica 

Tartarian Honeysuckle 
Myrica cerifera 

Bayberry 
Physocarpus opultfolius 

Ninebark 
Pyracantha coccinea 

Evergreen Thorn 
Rhodotypos kerrioides 

White Kerria 
Rhus glabra 

Smooth Sumac 



Rhus typhina 

Staghorn Sumac 
Rosa Man da 

Meadow Rose 
Rosa multiftora 

Japanese Climbing Rose 
Rosa rubiginosa 

Sweet Brier 
Rosa rubrifolia 

Red-leaved Rose 
Rosa rugosa 

Japanese Rose 
Sambuciis canadensis 

American Elder 
Sambucus racemosa 

Red-berried Elder 
Sorbus aucuparia 

European Mountain Ash 
Staphylea trijolia 

American Bladder-nut 
Symphoricarpos racetnosus 

Snowberry 
Symphoricarpos vulgaris 

Indian Currant 
Symplocus paniculata 

Japanese Sweet Leaf 
Faccinium (in variety) 

Blueberry 
Viburnum (in variety) 

Viburnum 



C. Producing Fruit Valuable During the Winter Months. 
The group of trees and shrubs which retain interesting fruit well into 
the winter months is comparatively limited. A few of these plants 
should be in every landscape planting to give a touch of colour and life 
during the dead winter months. 



Berberis (in variety) 

Barberry 
Celastrus scandens 

American Bitter-sweet 
Crataegus (in variety) 

Thorn 
Ilex opaca 

American Holly 
Ilex verticillata 

Winterberry 
Ligustrum ibota 

Japanese Privet 



Ligustrum vulgare 

European Privet 
Myrica cerifera 

Bayberry 
Pyracantha coccinea 

Evergreen Thorn 
Rhodotypos kerrioides 

White Kerria 
Rhus glabra 

Smooth Sumac 
Rhus typhina 

Staghorn Sumac 



1 64 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

Rosa blanda Viburnum americannm 

Meadow Rose American High Bush Cranberry 

Rosa multiflora Viburnum dilatatum 

Japanese Climbing Rose Japanese Bush Cranberry 

Rosa rugosa Viburnum opulus 

Japanese Rose High-bush Cranberry 



PLANTS USED FOR ATTRACTING BIRDS 

It is often advisable, in the making of landscape plantings, to use 
trees and shrubs which possess ornamental values from a landscape 
viewpoint, and which also produce fruit that attracts various species of 
birds. It is sometimes possible to use these plants in large groups, 
while in other instances it is advisable to use such plants as specimens 
at mtervals in the proposed plantings. This type of plant must be 
one which produces fruit or seed pods which can be eaten by the birds. 
In this manner a large number of birds may be kept on many home 
grounds throughout the different months of the year, especially if 
plants are selected which attract the birds in these different months. 
It is much easier to select a group of plants which will attract 
birds during the winter months when no food is available than it is 
to choose plants which will attract birds during the summer months 
when food is plentiful. 

There are many plants, such as sumacs, mulberries, blackberry- 
lilies, jewel weeds, and hazels, which should be used, occasionally, be- 
cause their main value is the value of their fruit for the feeding of birds, 
while they possess a very minor value for ornamental landscape plant- 
ing. On the other hand, there is a surprisingly large list of plants which 
are desirable and which are grown commercially in the nursery for use 
in ordinary landscape planting which do not produce valuable fruit. 

In this list the reader will readily note that different kinds of shrubs 
produce fruit which attracts different kinds of birds. The owner of an 
estate should therefore know the birds which generally frequent the 
locality m question and should use plants producing fruit attractive 
to these species of bird life. There are many shrubs the fruit of which 
is either too hard or too acid for birds to eat, such as the following: 
privets, sweet shrub, and bladder-nut. 

To successfully attract birds a plant must possess certain require- 
ments such as ability to produce a quantity of edible fruit, to afford 
shelter from the extreme heat of bright sunny days, shelter from wind, 



PLANTS FOR FRUIT CHARACTERISTICS 165 

and to provide sufficient seclusion so that certain types of birds may 
be protected from the view of persons. On another page there is a 
list of plants which are used during the growing season to attract birds 
and to keep them away from the fruits in the garden, particularly the 
berries. In fact, many farmers, as well as the owners of ornamental 
plantings, have found that cultivated fruits are greatly protected from 
damage if wild fruit is plentiful in that special locality, and that they 
are subject to much damage where wild fruit is scarce. An interesting 
point in the discussion of plants used for attracting birds is the fact 
that many birds feed upon fleshy fruits in order to obtain the water 
which they contain. Therefore the presence of bird baths on home 
grounds, where cultivated fruits require protection, will often keep 
many of the birds away from the fruit. 

The barberries, snowballs, sumacs, elderberries, bush honeysuckles, 
mulberries, bitter-sweets, and wild grapes attract the greater number of 
birds. 

D. Producing Fruit Valuable for Attracting Birds. There 
are numerous species of trees, shrubs, and vines, which are not only 
useful in a decorative way, but also add much to the interest of a place, 
attracting the birds by their fruit. Plants found in this hst are among 
the most important for furnishing food for birds. The names of the 
birds which feed upon the various fruits follow the plant list. The 
numbers after each plant in this hst correspond with the index number 
of the birds in List c. 

a. Fruiting in summer: 

jfmelanchier (mvanety) — 1,2,5,7,10, 12, Cornus (in variety) — i, 2, 4, ;, 6, 7, 10, 

ij, 18, 21, 26. 12, 13, 15, 17, 18, 19, 20, 22, 24, 26. 

Shad-bush Dogwood 

Ampelopsis quinquefolia — 2, 7, II, 14, 17, Gaultheria procumbens — 10, 13, 9, 5. 

18, 19, 26. Wintergreen 

Virginia Creeper Lonicera (in variety) — 9, 10, 12, 13. 

Aronia (in variety) — 9, 10, 12, 13. Honeysuckle 

Chokeberry Morus rubra— 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 7, 8, 10, 11, 12, 

Benzoin aestivale — 11, 17, 19, 26. 14, IS, 16, 17, 18, 19, 21, 22, 24, 26. 

Spice Bush Red Mulberry 

Berberis (in variety) — 5, 7, 11, 14, 17, 18, Nyssa sylvatica — 4, 12, 18, 17, 22, 26. 

19, 26. Tupelo 

Barberry Prunus (in variety) — i, 4, 5, 7, 10, 12, 14, 

Celtis occidentalis — i, 2, 5, 7, 18, 26. 15, 18, 22, 25, 26. 

Nettle Tree Cherry and Plum 



i66 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



Rubus (in variety) — I, 2, 12, 18, 19. Faccinium (in variety) — 4, 5, 7, 11, 12, 

Brambles i^^ ,8, ,9, 26. 

Sambucus (in variety) — 1,2,4, S> 7> I0> Hi Blueberry 
12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 22, 24, 26, 

Eider ^"'-f (in variety)— I, 5, 7, 11, 12, 14, 17, 

Symphoricarpos (in variety) — 9, 10, 12, 13. '8, 19, 22, 26. 

Indian Currant and Snowberry Grape 



b. Holding fruit into the winter months: 



Celastrus (in variety) — 2, 11, 17, 18, 26. 

Bitter-sweet 
Crataegus coccinea — 7, 11, 12, 18. 

Scarlet-fruited Thorn 
Crataegus cordata — 7, 11, 12. 

Washington Thorn 
Crataegus crus-galH — 7, II, 12, 18. 

Cockspur Thorn 
Crataegus oxycantha — 7, II, 12, 18. 

May Thorn 
Evonymus (in variety) — 2, 18, 19, 26. 

Burning Bush and Spindle Tree 
Ilex opaca — 2, 7, 17, 18, 26. 

American Holly 
//« verticillata — 2, 7, 17, 18, 26. 

Winterberry 
Juniperus (in variety) — 2, J, 6, 9, 10, 14, 
16, 17, 18, ig, 23, 25, 26. 

Red Cedar 
Lonicera (in variety) — 9, 10, 12, 13. 

Honeysuckle 



Myrica' cerifera — I, 6, 7, II, 14, 17, 18, 
19, 20, 25, 26. 
Bayberry 
Rhamnus (in variety) — 4, 5, 10, 12, 13, 14, 

18, 22. 
Buckthorn 

Rhus (in variety) — I, 2, 4, 5, 6, 7, 10, II, 
12, 14, 17, 18, 19, 20, 22, 24, 25, 26. 
Sumac 
Sorbus (in variety) — 2, 5, 9, 10, II, 18, 

19, 26. 
Mountain Ash 

Symphoricarpos (in variety) 9, 10, 12, 13. 

Snowberry and Indian Currant 
TsHga canadensis 

Canadian Hemlock 
Viburnum (in variety) except variety 
americanum — 2, 5, 7, 11, 17, 18, 19, 
22, 25, 26. 
Viburnum 



Hips of the following roses are eaten by many species of birds. 



Rosa blanda 

Meadow Rose 
Rosa Carolina 

Carolina Rose 
Rosa lucida 

Glossy Rose 
Rosa multiflora 

Japanese Climbing Rose 
Rosa nitida 

Shining-leaved Rose 



Rosa rubiginosa 

Sweet Brier 
Rosa rubrijolia 

Red-leaved Rose 
Rosa rugosa and single hybrids 

Japanese Rose 
Rosa setigera 

Prairie Rose 
Rosa spinosissima 

Scotch Rose 



Rosa wichuraiana 
Memorial Rose 



c. Birds attracted by the fruit. The following is a tabulation of 
the interesting types of birds which are attracted by the various 



PLANTS FOR FRUIT CHARACTERISTICS 



167 



kinds of fruit grown on the plants in list XX- D — a and h. The numbers 
appearing after the names of the plants on Pages 165 and 166 refer 
to the numbers opposite the names of the different birds in the follow- 
ing list. All of these birds feed upon one or more of the kinds of 
fruit shown on the preceding pages. 



1. Blackbird 

2. Bluebird 

3. Bobolink 

4. Catbird 

5. Cedarbird 

6. Chickadee 

7. Crow 

8. Cuckoo 

9. Finch 



10. Grosbeak 

11. Grouse 

12. Jay 

13. Junco 

14. Kingbird 

15. Oriole 

16. Phoebe 

17. Quail 

18. Robin 



19. Sparrow 

20. Swallow 

21. Tanager 

22. Thrasher 

23. Thrush 

24. Vireo 

25. Warbler 

26. Woodpecker 



E. Producing Fruit Which Attracts Birds Away From Other 
Fruit. Mulberries and shad-bushes will protect cherries and straw- 
berries. Elders, Virginia creeper, and black cherry will protect grapes. 
Elders and mulberries will protect raspberries and blackberries. 



F. Producing Fruit Which Often Makes the Plant Undesir- 
able in Landscape Planting. 



Aesculus hippocastanum 
Common Horse-chestnut 

Ailanthus glandulosa 
Tree of Heaven 

Catalpa (in variety) 
Indian Bean 



Celtis occidentalis 
Nettle Tree 

Ghditsia triacanthos 

Honey Locust 
Nut Trees (in variety) 



CHAPTER XXI 
TREES AND SHRUBS BEARING COLOURED TWIGS 

The trees and shrubs in the following list are those whose twigs are 
coloured sufficiently to make them of value from a landscape stand- 
point. The colour effect of twigs may be interesting from two points 
of view: either because of the vivid colouring, such as is seen in the 
red-twigged dogwood, and in the glossy rose, or of the general tone of 
colour such as seen in the American olive and the golden-barked 
willow, in which the colour as a mass is much more effective at a dis- 
tance than upon close examination. 

Many of the interesting shrubs included in this group are often- 
times selected because of the sharp contrast between the colour of their 
twigs and the white background of snow or the green background of 
evergreens during the winter months. This is especially true of the 
birches and the dogwoods. In fact, there is equally as much interest 
during the winter months in a planting of this kind, properly de- 
veloped, as in the difference of foliage effects during the summer 
months. It is a feature of landscape plantings to which very little 
attention has been given and one which demands careful study in order 
to be successfully worked out. 

On extensive lawn areas, in our parks and large private estates, 
many specimens of these plants can be tucked away in large groups, 
where during the winter months the colour effect of the twigs will 
lend an interesting tone and more feeling of life to the otherwise mo- 
notonous effect of the background. 

The development of many vistas is oftentimes emphasized through 
the careful selection of such plants as the birches, willows, and Russian 
olive, to give the feeling of greater depth in the landscape picture. 
Such specimens, planted in the immediate background, with a heavy 
texture of planting in the foreground, will greatly add to the suggested 
feeling of distance. 

The plants included in this group are those which carry an interest- 
ing and vivid colour of the branches and twigs throughout the winter 

168 



COLOURED TWIGS 169 

months. In the great majority of plants the new twigs show an in- 
teresting colour for perhaps part of the year, usually during the early 
spring months when the sap begins to flow. Later the colour becomes 
softened or deadened and it does not carry through to the late fall and 
winter. There are practically no shrubs which can be selected for the 
colour of their twigs during the summer months. It is not necessary 
to select plants for this purpose because there are so many other 
equally interesting eflFects to be obtained from flowers and foliage. 

The first two years' growth, especially the first year's growth on any 
tree or shrub, the twigs of which have a definite colour, is much 
brighter than the colour of the twigs after they are more than two 
years old and are becommg definite branches of the plant. This is a 
suggestion that severe prunmg, or cutting back, will often enhance the 
eff^ect, as in the case of the red-twigged dogwood. 

Twigs are also extremely interesting because of the markings. The 
tamarix and silky dogwood are types to study in detail as well as being 
valuable for the mass colour eff^ect seen at a distance. 

Colour effects of twigs form the most interesting feature of land- 
scape twig effects, and yet the coverings of older branches and tree 
trunks on many trees are very eff^ective in summer and winter. Every 
tree has its individual markings of trunk and branches, of great in- 
terest to the landscape student. The white oak, white birch, plane 
tree, and hackberry, with their peculiar bark, are valuable in landscape 
planting. 

LIST OF TREES AND SHRUBS BEARING COLOURED TWIGS 
This list consists of types of plants which are extremely interesting 
because of the colour eff"ect of their twigs. A memorandum is indi- 
cated opposite each type showing the special colour eff"ect which is 
produced if the twigs are less than two years old. As twigs grow older 
the colour of the bark becomes more neutral, and consequently these 
plants should be frequently pruned in order to produce new growth 
with its more vivid colour eff"ects. 

Acer pennsylvanicum — striped green — Betula populifolia — white bark 
white branches American White Birch 

Striped Maple 

T>., 1 • jj- 11 1 1 Cornus alba — blood-red branches 

Hetula nigra — reddish brown bark n j • i i-> L,iaii^iic» 

Red Birch Ked-twigged Dogwood 

Betula papyri/era — white bark Cornus alba sibirica — coral-red branches 

Paper Birch Siberian Dogwood 



jyo 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



Cornus paniculala — grey bark 

Grey Dogwood 
Cornus sanguined viridissima — green twigs 

Green-stemmed Dogwood 
Cornus stolonifera flavirammea — yellow 
bark 
Golden-twigged Osier 
Ehagnus (in variety) — silvery bark 

American Olive 
Fagus americana — grey bark 

American Beech 
Forsyihia viridissima — dark green 
branches 
Dark-green Golden Bell 
Kerria japonic a — green branches 
Globe Flower 

Salix vitellina britzensis — reddish bronze 
Hybrid Yellow Willow 



Platanus orientalis — white bark 

Oriental Plane 
Populus tremuloides — silvery green 
branches 

Trembling Aspen 
Rosa blanda — reddish purple twigs 

Meadow Rose 
Rosa lucida — reddish twigs 

Glossy Rose 

Rosa lucida alba — greenish twigs 
White-flowered Glossy Rose 

Salix alba — yellowish bark 
White Willow 



Salix vitellina aurea — golden yellow 
Golden-barked Willow 



CHAPTER XXII 

PLANTS VALUABLE BECAUSE OF THE AUTUMN 
COLOURATION OF THE LEAVES 

One of the most charming features of our northern landscapes, es- 
pecially through the northeastern United States where such a great 
variety of deciduous trees are indigenous, is the autumn colouration of 
the foliage. During the normal growing seasons, when ample rains 
have fallen and the trees are full with sap at the end of the season, the 
autumn colours are much more vivid than during a dry season. 

It is extremely important in designing landscape plantings that 
thought should be given to the fruiting effects during the fall and 
winter months and also to the autumn colours of the foliage of our trees 
and shrubs. A small touch of colour in the border shrub plantings of 
the average lawn is usually the difference between an uninteresting 
and an interesting planting at that season of the year. Every planting 
should have introduced into it a few plants which, if not valuable for 
their fruiting and flowering characteristics, will produce a touch of 
colour as accents to relieve the monotony of the dead greens and 
browns during late September and October. 

Autumn colouration is the result of an interesting physiological 
function within the plant. Contrary to the average opinion that 
autumn colour is the result of sharp freezes, the presence of frost 
serves but in a slight degree to hasten this colouring, because the 
degree of cold necessary to produce a freeze further retards the flow 
of any sap. The production of the vivid autumn colours is caused by 
a devitalized or increasingly dormant condition of the plant. The 
lessened flow of new sap to the leaves, caused by the formation, of 
corky tissue at the extreme base of the leaf to cover and protect the 
leaf scar during the winter months, results in a chemical reaction 
of the acids within the leaf itself. The results of this chemical re- 
action are evident in the autumn colours. The factors determining 
the kind and degree of autumn colouration is the presence of different 



172 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

acids within the leaf. These acids arc present constantly in their 
respective types of plants. 

It is a peculiar fact that in some trees autumn colouration is much 
more vivid than in other trees, because of the presence of certain acids 
the chemical reaction of which produces these vivid colours. The 
autumn colouration of foliage ranges from the dull browns through the 
yellows and orange to the brilliant red and scarlet. Some of our 
trees and shrubs such as the red maple, Judas tree, sourwood, sumac, 
and sassafras, develop their autumn colours during the early part 
of the fall. In these trees growth [stops early in the season and 
the wood matures more quickly. There is one group of plants 
such as the Virginia creeper, Thunberg's barberry, red oak, high- 
bush cranberry, and arrow-wood, in which the autumn colouration 
is produced shortly after the early trees have shown their autumn 
colours. The American beech, golden bell, scarlet oak, and burning 
bush, and some others mature and ripen last of all and are included 
in the group with late autumn colouration. With the great oppor- 
tunity for selection of trees and shrubs from these three well-defined 
groups a succession, if it may be so termed, of autumn colouration 
may be obtained, which will supplement and add interest to the fruit- 
ing effects produced by a well-selected group of plants valuable for the 
characteristics of their fruit. 

One has only to observe our native trees and shrubs in the north- 
east to appreciate the wonderful colour effects which are produced 
during the autumn months and are evidenced on all of our hillsides. 
So seldom are shrubs selected for landscape grouping with a specific 
intention of emphasizing their value because of autumn colouration, 
that we find there are few good illustrations, and those at scattered 
intervals, showing the autumn colours and their values in the settings 
of our lawns. 

LIST OF PLANTS VALUABLE BECAUSE OF THE AUTUMN 
COLOURATION OF THE LEAVES 

The plants in the following three groups have been separated and 
grouped because of the interesting colour effects of the foliage. The 
most important factor in selecting plants for the autumn colouration 
of their foliage is to select material which will provide a succession of 
colour from early fall to late fall. The colours produced by the foliage 
of the different types are indicated after each type. 



PLANTS FOR AUTUMN COLOURATION 
A. Early: 



173 



Acer ginnala (scarlet) 

Siberian Maple 
Acer negundo (yellow) 

Box Elder 
Acer rubrum (scarlet) 

Red Maple 
Acer saccharum (red) 

Sugar Maple 
Betula lutea (yellow) 

Yellow Birch 
Betula nigra (yellow) 

Red Birch 

Cercidiphyllum japoniciim (yellow to 
crimson) 
Kadsura Tree 

Cercii canadensis (yellow) 
Red-bud 



Chionanthus virginica (yellow) 

White Fringe 
Koelreuteria paniculata (yellow) 

Varnish Tree 
Liquidambar styraciflua (scarlet) 

Sweet Gum 
Liriodendron tulipifera (yellow) 

Tulip Tree 
Oxydendrum arhoreum (scarlet) 

Sourwood 
Platanus orientalis (yellow) 

Oriental Plane 
Rlius typhina (scarlet) 

Staghorn Sumac 
Sassafras officinale (orange and scarlet) 

Common Sassafras 
Ulmus americana (yellow) 

American Elm 



B. Medium: 

Acer palmatum (red) 

Japanese Maple 
Amelanchier (bright yellow) 

Shad-bush 
Ampelopsis qviyiquefolia (red) 

Virginia Creeper 
Berberis ihunbergi (scarlet) 

Thunberg's Japanese Barberry 
Carpinus caroliniana (orange) 

American Hornbeam 
Cotoneasier (in variety) (red) 

Cotoneaster 
Crataegus (in variety) (orange to red) 

Thorn 
Fraxinus americana (yellow) 

White Ash 
Carya alba (rich brown) 

Hickory 



Hydrangea quercifolia (yellow) 

Oak-leaved Hydrangea 
Nyssa sylvatica (red) 

Tupelo 
Quercus rubra (red) 

Red Oak 
Quercus velutina (orange and red) 

Black Oak 
Rhus canadensis (red) 

Fragrant Sumac 
Ribes aureum (yellow) 

Flowering Currant 
Vaccinium corymbosum (crimson) 

High-bush Blueberry 
Viburnum acerijolium (purple) 

Maple-leaved Viburnum 
Viburnum dentatum (red) 

Arrow-wood 



C Late: 



a. Coloured foliage. 

Acer platanoides (green) 

Norway Maple 
Cladrastis lutea (yellow) 

Yellow-wood 



Cornus florida (scarlet) 
Flowering Dogwood 

Evonymus alatus (scarlet) 
Cork-barked Burning Bush 



174 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



Evonymiis atropurpureus (red) 

Burning Bush 
Evonymus europaeus (red) 

European Spindle Tree 
Fagus americana (rich yellow) 

American Beech 
Forjythia viridissima (purple) 

Dark Green Golden Bell 
Ginkgo biloba (yellow) 

Maidenhair Tree 
Hamamelis virginiana (yellow) 

Witch Hazel 



Mahonia aquiJoUum (bronze) 

Oregon Grape 
Myrica cerijera (bronze) 

Bayberry 
Ostrya virginica (yellow) 

Hop Hornbeam 
Pieris floribunda (bronze) 

Mountain Fetterbush 
Quercus alba (purple) 

White Oak 
Quercus coccinea (scarlet) 

Scarlet oak 



b. Green Foliage. Some trees and shrubs are exceedingly inter- 
esting in the landscape composition because of the varying and vivid 
colours of their autumn foliage, ranging from brown or brownish yel- 
low, through to vivid scarlet and bright red. There is another 
group of shrubs which are not so valuable because of the autumn 
colour of their foliage, but because of the fact that their foliage is 
retained until extremely late in the fall, or possibly into the early 
winter. Such shrubs as the privets, and many others shown in this 
list, are very valuable in landscape plantations where the owner 
cannot, because of climatic or soil conditions, resort to the use of 
evergreens, and is still desirous of producing a foliage effect that will 
serve as a background or a screen until late into October or early 
November. Many of these shrubs are somewhat tender and the 
fact that they do carry their leaves unchanged until late in the autumn 
often shows that they are not able to mature their wood during a nor- 
mal growing season. Since they often do not mature their leaves they 
are also liable to go into the winter with tender wood. Many of the 
shrubs given in this list should therefore not be planted in exposed 
places. 



I. Shrubs: 



Abelia grandiflora 

Hybrid Abelia 
Aralia pentaphyla 

Five-leaved Angelica 
Berberis wilsonae 

Wilson's Barberry 
Chaenomeles japonica 

Japanese Quince 
Cotoneaster adpressa 

Creeping Cotoneaster 



Cotoneaster korizontalis 

Prostrate Cotoneaster 
Eleagnus multiflora rotundijolia 

Round-leaved Gumi 
Evonymus bungeanus semipersistens 

Half-evergreen Spindle Tree 
Fontanesia fortunei 

Fortune's Fontanesia 
Forsythia viridissima 

Dark green Golden Bell 



PLANTS FOR AUTUMN COLOURATION 



'75 



Hypericum buckleyi 

Buckley's St. John's Wort 

Hypericum patulum henryi 

Hybrid St. John's Wort 
Ligustrum japonic um 

Evergreen Privet 
Ligustrum ovalifolium 

California Privet 
Ligustrum vulgare semperoirens 

Half-evergreen European Privet 
Ligustrum amurense 

Amoor River Privet 



Lonicera fragrantissima 

Early Fragrant Honeysuckle 

Lonicera sempervirens 

Coral Honeysuckle 
Lonicera siandishi 

Standish's Bush Honeysuckle 
Viburnum macrocephalum 

Chinese Snowball 
Viburnum opulus nanum 

Dwarf Bush Cranberry 
Viburnum rhytidophyllum 

Evergreen Viburnum 



Viburnum sieboldi 
Siebold's Viburnum 



Fines: 

Akebia lobata 

Divided-leaved Akebia 
Akebia quinata 

Five-leaved Akebia 



Clematis paniculata 

Japanese Clematis 
Lonicera japonica halliana 
Japanese Honeysuckle 
Smilax hispida 
Prickly Greenbrier 



CHAPTER XXIII 

FAST-GROWING TYPES VALUABLE FOR PRODUCING 
SCREEN EFFECTS 

It often becomes necessary to find some fast-growing type of 
tree or shrub to produce an immediate screen. This is especially 
true in the development of new landscapes where a foliage effect 
is desired and the more permanent types of shrubs in the planta- 
tion require a longer period to produce the desired effect. In such 
instances the more rapid-growing types of shrubs may be planted and 
removed after the first one or two years, at which time the more 
permanent types have developed far enough so that during the suc- 
ceeding years they will produce the effect which the designer had in 
mind when they were first selected. The great danger in using quick- 
growing types of temporary materials for immediate effects lies in the 
fact that for the success of such plantations the owTier must have the 
"courage of his convictions" and remove the temporary types of 
material when the time comes that they are beginning to crowd and to 
injure the more permanent types. 

In other instances, where it is necessar>' to screen service buildings 
or blank walls of other buildings such quick-growing types of trees 
and shrubs as the ailanthus, poplars, willows, and elders may be planted. 
The ailanthus especially is used to form a mass of foliage against 
service buildings and blank walls during the summe rmonths, but 
this tree is cut back each year to a height of three or four feet and the 
new growth produces the effect during the next year. 

The fast-growing types of trees and shrubs often used to produce 
quick effects are correspondingly short lived. Those trees and shrubs 
which grow rapidly, mature and decay nearly as rapidly. Very few 
of these types should be placed in permanent plantings. 

This list consists of two distinct groups of fast-growing material: 
that group of which the ailanthus, poplar, willow, and elder are typical, 
being the very rapid-growing types of material, and that group of which 
the remaining trees and shrubs are typical being rapid-growing types 

176 



FAST-GROWING TYPES FOR SCREEN EFFECTS 177 

which are more or less permanent in their character of growth. The 
types contained in this last group estabhsh themselves much more 
quickly than trees and shrubs of a similar kind, which require a longer 
period after transplanting before making a normal growth. 

Such shrubs as the weigela, the ninebark, and the privet are often 
used to obtain quick mass effects of foliage around the base of buildings 
in locations where the slower-growing types of shrubs, such as hlacs, 
bridal wreaths, and snowballs would require a much longer time to 
develop a similar effect. 



LIST OF FAST-GROWING TYPES VALUABLE FOR PRODUC- 
ING SCREEN EFFECTS 

These groups contain the very fastest growing and most temporary 
types of trees and shrubs, and the more rapid-growing types of trees 
and shrubs often used in permanent plantings. Material may be 
selected from these groups when an immediate foliage effect is desired. 



A. Trees: 

Acer negundo 

Box Elder 
Acer saccharinum 

Silver Maple 
Ailanlhus glandulosa 

Tree of Heaven 
Catalpa speciosa 

Western Catalpa 
Larix europea 

European Larch 
Madura poviijera 

Osage Orange 
Morus alba tatarica 

Mulberry 

B. Shrubs: 

Cornus alba sibirica 

Siberian Dogwood 
Cornus stolonifera 

Red Osier Cornel 
Deuizia crenata Pride of Rochester 

Large-flowered Deutzia 
Diervilla florida 

Rose-coloured Weigela 



Phellodendron amurense 

Chinese Cork Tree 
Picea excelsa 

Norway Spruce 
Pinus sylvestris 

Scotch Pine 
Platanus orientalis 

Oriental Plane 
Populus (in variety) 

Poplar 
Robinia pseudacacia 

Black Locust 
Salix (in variety) 

Willow 



Ligustrum amurense 

Amoor River Privet 
Lonicera (in variety) 

Bush Honeysuckle 
Philadelphus grandiflorus 

Large-flowered Mock Orange 
Physocarpus opulifolius 

Ninebark 



Sambucus canadensis 
American Elder 



CHAPTER XXIV 

PLANTS ADAPTED TO VARIOUS TYPES OF SOIL 
CONDITIONS 

A VERY important factor in determining the sorts of plants adapted 
to any specific location is the soil type. By soil type is meant the 
relative acidity or alkalinity of the soil elements, the relative fineness 
of the soil particles, and the relative state of dryness of the soil material. 
All of these conditions overlap and combine with one another and pro- 
duce soil types which are favourable for certain groups of plants and 
unfavourable for other groups. The exact physiological reasons why a 
plant should succeed so much better on one soil type than on another 
is seldom exactly understood; but practical experience has helped to 
solve many problems and to bring out many interesting facts. 

Plants adapted to boggy soils are likely to be shallow-rooted like the 
elm, and they are able to withstand a soil condition which is poorly 
aerated and almost invariably acid. In fact, a pond full of alkaline or 
limy water will generally be found practically devoid of plant life, 
while in an acid pond plants thrive so that they gradually displace 
the water as in sphagnum bogs, which were open ponds at one time 
but have lost that character through the excessive growth of plants. 
In a true bog there is practically no free drainage except during the 
spring thaw or flood time. 

Plants adapted to bog gardens are called bog plants. Perhaps the 
most prominent of these perennials are the different varieties of the 
lady-slipper and the pitcher plant. One of the most essential things 
for the success of bog garden plants is to have a moist condition which 
does not vary to any marked degree. It is much better to have the 
ground surrounding the roots of these plants over-saturated than to 
have the degree of moisture become too much depleted, as the water 
table throughout the entire area of the bog garden should be main- 
tained at a constant level and at the same time the water should not be 
allowed to become stagnant. If the area which is being developed as a 
bog garden does-not naturally possess a growth of certain plants which 
one knows to be indigenous to bog areas then investigation should be 

178 



VARIOUS TYPES OF SOIL CONDITIONS 179 

made to be sure that the artificial bog garden can have moist soil condi- 
tions which will be congenial to the plants in this location. 

Peat soils are not only naturally acid but it is believed they con- 
tain low forms of plant life also which are of great assistance in pro- 
moting the growth of ericaceous plants that especially thrive on peaty 
soils. Peat bog soils lack available nitrogen and therefore carnivorous 
plants occur, such as pitcher plants and sundew. Humic acid is pres- 
ent and low temperatures are the prevailing ones. The humic acid 
acts upon the roots of the plants. Plants adapted to peat are likely 
to be those requiring considerable humus also a cool, moist, deep, loamy 
soil and a position not in full sun when transplanted. 

Since in a light, sandy soil the particles are relatively large such a 
soil is generally well aerated and not retentive of moisture. Thus, 
plants adapted to such a soil are as a rule very hardy and possessed of a 
large root system due to the fact that the roots generally have to ex- 
tend considerable distances in search of water which may fail just 
when most needed, that is, during summer droughts and winter freeze- 
ups accompanied by a drying wind. Also since this soil type is well 
aerated it is not likely to contain much humus or to be acid in char- 
acter as the aeration or oxidation of the humus removes one cause of the 
soil acidity. 

On the other hand, clay soils are composed of very fine particles, 
poorly aerated, and are retentive of moisture and tend to be acid in 
reaction. Therefore, plants adapted to clay soils are generally mois- 
ture loving, free from large fibrous root systems, and are not nearly so 
likely to be hardy, especially if removed to another soil type. 

Light soils are said to be warmer than heavy ones. What is really 
meant by that is that the period of growth from spring to autumn is 
longer on a light soil than on a heavy one. For this reason, plants 
which start growth early in the spring, like peaches, or bloom late in 
the autumn, like chrysanthemums, generally succeed better on a light 
soil. For the present, and until the underlying reasons are better 
understood, experience will prove the best guide in selecting plants 
for the diflferent soil types. 

LIST OF PLANTS ADAPTED TO VARIOUS TYPES OF SOIL 
CONDITIONS 

A. Boggy and Peaty Soils. Plants in this group have proved their 
ability to thrive under extremely wet conditions in boggy or peaty 



i8o 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



types of soil. The evergreens in this group should never be planted 
in a soil containing limestone or in a soil which is supplied with water 
from a source where limestone is present, or be fertilized with bone 
meal. 



a. Boggy situations {Trees and Shrubs): 

Acer rubrum 

Red Maple 
Alnus glulinosa 

Black Alder 
Alnus incana 

Speckled Alder 
Alnus Tugosa serrulaia 

Smooth Alder 
Aronia arbutijolia 

Red Chokeberry 
Aronia melanocarpa 

Black Chokeberry 
Betula nigra 

Red Birch 
Cephalanihus occidentalis 

Button Bush 
Chamaecyparis thyoides 

White Cedar 
Clethra alnijolia 

Sweet Pepper Bush 
Fraxinus americana 

White Ash 
Hypericum densiflorum 

Bushy St. John's Wort 
Ilex verticillata 

Winterberry 

Boggy situations {Perennials): 

Ascelpias rubra 

Red Milkweed 
Aster nemoralis 

Bog Aster 
Cypripedium candidum 

Small White Lady's Slipper 
Eupatorium verbenaefolium 

Rough Thoroughwort 
Gaultheria procumbens 

Wintergreen 
Helonias bullata 

Swamp-pink 

Solidago neglecta 
Swamp Goldenrod 



Ilea virginica 

Virginian Willow 
Larix laricina 

Tamarack 
Nyssa syhatica 

Tupelo 
Picea alba 

White Spruce 
Quercus alba 

White Oak 
Quercus bicolor 

Swamp White Oak 
Quercus palustris 

Pin Oak 
Salix (in variety) 

Willow 
Taxodium distichum 

Bald Cypress 
Thuja occidentalis 

American Arborvitae 
Tilia americana 

American Linden 
Ulmus americana 

American Elm 
Vaccinium (in variety) 

Blueberry 



Mitchella repens 

Partridge Berry 
Osmunda cinnamomea 

Cinnamon Fern 
Osmunda regalis 

Royal Fern 
Rhexia virginica 

Meadow Beauty 
Rynchospora alba 

White Beaked-rush 
Sarracenia purpurea 

Pitcher Plant 



VARIOUS TYPES OF SOIL CONDITIONS 



b. Peaty situations: 

Kalmia angustifolia 

Sheep Laurel 
Kalmia latijolia 

Mountain Laurel 
Ledum groenlandicum 

Labrador Tea 
Pachistima canbyi 

Canby's Mountain Lover 



Pieris florihunda 

Mountain Fetterbush 
Rhododendro7i (in variety) 

Rhododendron 
Taxus canadensis 

Ground Yew 
Fiburnum nudum 

Large Withe-rod 



Xanlhorrhiza apiifolia 
Yellowroot 



B. Light, Sandy Soils. This group contains many hardy types of 
trees and shrubs which seem to flourish under poor soil conditions. In 
general they have a deep root system which enables them to obtain 
moisture and food material during periods of dry weather. 



a. Trees: 



Cornus florida 

Flowering Dogwood 
Juniperus virginiana 

Red Cedar 
Pinus banksiana 

Jack Pine 
Pinus rigida 

Pitch Pine 
Pinus strobus 

White Pine 



Pinus syhestris 

Scotch Pine 
Prunus padus commutata 

Hybrid European Bird Cherry 
Pyrus baccata (in variety) 

Siberian Flowering Crab 
Querciis rubra 

Red Oak 
Robinia pseudacacia 

Black Locust 



b. Shrubs: 

Azalea nudiflora 

Pinkster Flower 
Caragana arborescens 

Siberian Pea Shrub 
Comptonia asplenifolia 

Sweet Fern 
Cornus mas 

Cornelian Cherry 
Cytisus scoparius 

Scotch Broom 
Hamamelis virgi?iiana 

Witch Hazel 
Hippophae rhamnoides 

Sea Buckthorn 
Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora 

Large-flowering Hydrangea 



Juniperus communis 

Common Juniper 
Mahonia aquijolium 

Oregon Grape 
Myrica cerifera 

Bayberry 
Prunus maritima 

Beach Plum 
Rhamnus cathartica 

Common Buckthorn 
Rhus canadensis 

Fragrant Sumac 
Rosa rugosa 

Japanese Rose 
Salix tristis 

Dwarf Grey Willow 



l82 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



Sophora vtciifolia 

Sophora 
Spiraea vanhouttei 

Van Houtte's Bridal Wreath 
Symphoricarpos vulgaris 

Indian Currant 

Vines: 

Actinidia (in variety) 

Silver Vine 
Ampelopsis guinquefolia 

Virginia Creeper 
Celastrus (in variety) 

Bitter-sweet 



Tamarix (in variety) 

Tamarisk 
Faccinium corymbosum 

High-bush Blueberry 
Viburnum (in variety) 

Viburnum 



Lonicera japonica halliana 
Japanese Honeysuckle 

Lycium halimijolium 
Matrimony Vine 

Fitis (in variety) 
Grape 



C. Heavy Types of Soils. Most of the plants in this group are not 
of a deep-rooted type and are better adapted for use in the heavy types 
of soil. These plants, under normal conditions, should be planted in 
heavy clay soil vphich is not well drained. This list is compiled for 
reference where the extreme of clayey soil conditions exist and a 
particularly safe group of plants is desired from which to select. 

a. Trees: 



Abies balsamea 

Balsam Fir 
Abies brachyphylla 

Nikko Fir 
Abies veitchi 

Veitch's Silver Fir 
Acer Tubrum 

Red Maple 
Acer saccharum 

Sugar Maple 
Catalpa bignonioides 

Indian Bean 
Fagus (in variety) 

Beech 

b. Shrubs: 



Larix europaea 

European Larch 
Larix laricina 

Tamarack 
Larix leptolepsis 

Japanese Larch 
Picea excelsa 

Norway Spruce 
Pinus sirobus 

White Pine 
Thuja occidentalis 

American Arborvitae 
Tsuga canadensis 

Canadian Hemlock 



Aralia (in variety) Corylus avellana 

Angelica Tree Filbert 

Berberis thunbergi Diervilla trifida 

Thunberg's Japanese Barberry Bush Honeysuckle 

Calycanlhus floridus Halesia Carolina 

Strawberry Shrub Silver Bell 
Cornus (in variety) 

Dogwood 

Viburnum (native varieties) 
Viburnum 



Hamamelis virginiana 
Witch Hazel 



VARIOUS TYPES OF SOIL CONDITIONS 183 

c. Vines: 

Actinidia (in variety) Lonicera japonica halliana 
Silver Vine Japanese Honeysuckle 

Akebia quinata Wisteria sinensis 
Five-leaved Akebia Chinese Wisteria 

D. Trees Tolerant of Alkali Soils. Trees which are used 
in this type of soil should be extremely vigorous in their habit of growth. 
There is no special reason which can be set forth, from a physiological 
standpoint as a guide, for selecting types of trees for these conditions. 
The best and safest guide is the experience of others. 

{Black Alkali Soils — Sodium Carbonate): 



Koelreuteria paniculata 
Varnish Tree 



{White Alkali Soils.) 



Ailanthus altissima Populus fremonti 

Tree of Heaven Western Cottonwood 

Eleagnus angustifolia Prunus davidiana 

Russian Olive David's Flowering Peach 

Gleditsia triacanthos Quercus lobata 

Honey Locust (only fairly tolerant) California White Oak 

Halimodendron halodendron Robinia pseudacacia 

Salt Tree , Black Locust 

Platanus orientalis Ulmus (in variety) 

Oriental Plane Elm (only fairly tolerant) 
Note; All varieties o( Prunus will thrive in alkali soils if grafted on Prunus davidiana. 

E. Drought-resisting Plants. The ability of some plants to 
resist drought lies not in their ability to extract more water than other 
plants from the same soil, as commonly supposed, but in their ability 
to send deep roots after water, or else to cut down the loss of moisture 
'through their tops when soil moisture is scarce. All plants require 
about the same amount of available moisture in the soil around their 
roots, to keep them from wilting when growing in the same type of soil. 
But soil types vary in their ability to give up moisture, and the 
moisture content in a sandy soil can fall much lower than in a more 
retentive loam or clay soil before plants begin to wilt. This explains 
|Why plants adapted to drought conditions and growing in a sandy soil 
can survive a period of drought which will seriously injure other plants 
growing near by upon a,.clay loam soil actually containing more water. 



1 84 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

All of the plants in the following list possess some characteristic which 
fits them for growing in dry places and should be chosen for planting in 
those dry spots upon embankments or on sandy soil where it is so hard 
to secure results with ordinary herbaceous perennials. While the plants 
included in this list are called drought-resisting plants they are not 
such plants as will withstand deliberate abuse through lack of cultiva- 
tion or other normal care. The attempt to adapt plants of this kind to 
extreme soil conditions should not be made until a decision has been 
reached that no changes in soil conditions are practicable or justifiable. 



Achillea fdipendula 

Oriental Yarrow 
Anchusa italica 

Alkanet 
Anchusa mysotidiflora 

Caucasian Alkanet 
Arab is alpina 

Rock Cress 
Arenaria moniana 

Sandwort 
Artemisia abrotanum 

Southernwood 
Artemisia stelleriana 

Beach Wormwood 
Calandrinia umbellata 

Rock Purslane 
Cerastium tomentosum 

Snow-in-Summer 
Cheiranthiis allioni 

Hybrid Wallflower 
Dianthus deltoides 

Maiden Pink 
Draba azoides 

Aizoon-like Whitlow Grass 
Echinops ritro 

Globe Thistle 
Erigeron speciosus 

Oregon Fleabane 
Eryngium amethystinum 

Amethyst Sea Holly 
Euphorbia epithymoides 

Yellow Wolf's-milk 
Glaucium flavum 

Sea Poppy 
Helianthemum (in variety) 

Frostweed 
Liatris pycnostachya 

Blazing Star 



Liatris scariosa 

Large Button Snakeroot 
Linaria dalmatica 

Dalmatian Toad-flax 
Lupinus polyphyllus 

Perennial Lupin 
Nepeta mussini 

Catmint 
Oenothera fruticosa 

Sundrops 
Oenothera speciosa 

Missouri "Evening Primrose 
Papaver orientale 

Oriental Poppy 
Platycodon grandiflorum 

Balloon Flower 
Salvia azurea 

Blue Salvia 
Salvia pratensis 

Meadow Sage 
Santolina chamaecyparisus 

Lavender Cotton 
Sedum (in variety) 

Stonecrop 
Sempervivum (in variety) 

Houseleeks 
Stachys lanata 

Wooly Woundwort 
Tunica saxifraga 

Saxifrage-like Tunica 
Verbascum olympicum 

Greek Mullein 
Verbascum phoeniceum 

Purple Mullein 
Verbascum phlomoides 

Clasping-leaved Mullein 
Yucca (in variety) 

Adam's Needle 



CHAPTER XXV 

PLANTS FOR EXPOSED LAKE FRONT AND RIVER 
CONDITIONS 

We have often noticed plantations along exposed lake fronts and 
river fronts where normal development seems to have been greatly 
retarded and a considerable loss from winter-kilHng has been expe- 
rienced. A definite problem in the selection of plants adapted to 
these locations is presented, especially where the prevaiUng winds 
during the colder periods in the year are from the water. 

The plant materials listed in this group are selected from those which 
have been found hardy under the exposed lake front and river front 
conditions near the Great Lakes and the smaller rivers of the northern 
portions of the middle west. Many plants which apparently are 
hardy under the more even and severe climatic conditions of the in- 
land are not hardy under these water-front conditions. This is largely 
due to the sudden changes of temperature during the worst of the 
winter months, and also to the possible effects of the spray freezing on 
the stems. In general plants which do not ripen their growth until 
very late in the season are not recommended for use under these 
conditions. 

No plants, not even the more hardy types of those included in these 
lists, will adapt themselves to normal conditions of growth as 
early as the same plants would adapt themselves under inland con- 
ditions of climate and atmosphere. A greater percentage of loss will be 
experienced and the only practical method for obtaining a complete 
planting is by careful addition and replacement during the first three 
or four years. It is necessary for much of this material to become ac- 
climated to these more severe conditions, and it may be advisable at 
times to plant some of the more rapid-growing trees and shrubs as a 
partial protection during the first two or three years. 

It is preferable that material used on the steeper slopes of river 
fronts and lake fronts should possess a deep root system which will 
aid in protecting the slopes against erosion. If the slopes are steep 



1 86 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



and wash badly during periods of rain such types as locust, sumacs, 
willows, and the matrimony vine will form a deep root system quickly. 
The process of naturalizing trees and shrubs on the slopes of river 
banks and lake shores is a slow one. It should never be attempted as a 
single operation. The material should be young, a great percentage of 
loss must be expected, and only the "survival of the fittest" rule can 
apply. 



LIST OF PLANTS FOR EXPOSED LAKE FRONT AND RIVER 
CONDITIONS 

The plants in Groups A, B, and C of this list include the hardy types 
of trees and shrubs. All of these types have been known to thrive 
under the severe exposures of lake shore and river frontage throughout 
the northeastern United States. Most of these plants are adapted for 
use on the slopes so often found along rivers and lakes. 



Trees: 

Acer ginnala 

Siberian Maple 
Alnus glutinosa 

Black Alder 
Betula alba 

European White Birch 
Betula populifolia 

American White Birch 
Caragana arborescens 

Siberian Pea Shrub 
Crataegus coccinea 

Scarlet-fruited Thorn 
Crataegus oxycantha 

May Thorn 
Eleagnus angustifolia 

Russian Olive 
Fraxinus americana 

White Ash 
Juniperus communis 

Common Juniper 
Juniperus virginiana 

Red Cedar 
Picea alba 

White Spruce 
Picea excelsa 

Norway Spruce 



Pinus banksiana 

Jack Pine 
Pinus montana mughus 

Dwarf Mountain Pine 
Pinus nigra austriaca 

Austrian Pine 
Pinus rigida 

Pitch Pine 
Pinus sylvestris 

Scotch Pine 
Populus balsamifera 

Balsam Poplar 
Populus eugenei 

Carolina Poplar 
Ptelea trifoliata 

Hop Tree 
Pyrus haccata 

Siberian Flowering Crab 
Quercus matrocarpa 

Mossy Cup Oak 
Robinia pseudacacia 

Black Locust 
Salix vitellina 

Yellow Willow 
Sorbus americana 

American Mountain Ash 
Ulmus americana 
American Elm 



EXPOSED LAKE FRONT AND RIVER 



187 



B. Shrubs: 

Cornus alba sibirica 

Siberian Dogwood 
EUagnus argentea 

Silver Berry 
Myrica cert/era 

Bayberry 
Philadelphu! coronarius 

Common Mock Orange 
Prunus maritima 

Beach Plum 
Rhamnus cathartica 

Common Buckthorn 
Rhus canadensis 

Fragrant Sumac 
Rhus glabra 

Smooth Sumac 
Rhus typhina 

Staghorn Sumac 



Ribes americanum 

American Black Currant 
Rosa rugosa 

Japanese Rose 
Salix incana 

Rosemary Willow 
Shepherdia canadensis 

Canadian Buffalo Berry 
Sorbaria sorbifolia 

Mountain Ash-leaved Spirea 
Spiraea tomentosa 

Hardback 
Symphoricarpos occidenlalis 

Wolfberry 
Syringa vulgaris 

Common Lilac 
Viburnum opulus 

High-bush Cranberry 



C. Vines: 

Actinidia arguta 

Dark-leaved Silver Vine 
Actinidia polygama 

Silver Vine 
Ampelopsis aconitifolia 

Cut-leaved Vitis 
Ampelopsis heterophylla 

Asiatic Creeper 
Ampelopsis quinquejolia 

Virginia Creeper 



Celastrus scandens 

American Bittersweet 
Lonicera japonica halliana 

Japanese Honeysuckle 
Lycium halimifolium 

Matrimony Vine 
Periploca graeca 

Silk Vine 
Smilax noiundifolia 

Bull Brier 



Fitis (in variety) 
Grapes 



CHAPTER XXVI 
TREES AND SHRUBS FOR SEASIDE PLANTING 

A PECULIAR situation exists in the relative hardiness of trees and 
shrubs for seaside exposures. Plants which are entirely hardy on ex- 
posed river front and fresh water locations are apt not to thrive at the 
seaside, especially along the Maine Coast and the more exposed points 
of New England. Where the climatic conditions of the winter are not 
extremely severe, as on Long Island and the points farther south, 
most of the hardy trees and shrubs are well adapted. There are loca- 
tions on the exposed frontages of the Great Lakes where conditions are 
equally as severe as are conditions on the east coast of the northeastern 
United States. The salt air condition and the salt spray during the 
winter months does not become a factor, however, in lake front ex- 
posures. 

Perhaps the most severe conditions of seaside exposure in the country 
are along the shores of Penobscot Bay and the Maine Coast. In all 
ornamental plantings in these locations it has been a question of 
experimenting to determine the trees and shrubs to be used to with- 
stand the extreme and severe conditions of the winter months. The 
growing season is short. Therefore trees and shrubs which require 
a longer ripening period in the mid-summer and early fall months 
are subject to considerable winter-killing because of the immature 
condition of the wood when freezing weather begins. This same 
factor also deprives the early spring-flowering shrubs of the wood 
which produces flowers on buds formed the year before. The de- 
ciduous trees which are hardy along the coast of Maine are those which 
are indigenous to that section such as beeches, red oaks, willows, and 
red maples. None of the more refined types of evergreens, with the 
exception of the red cedar and the prostrate juniper, have proved hardy 
in these locations. The American arborvitae in many instances is 
hardy, and in others has not proved hardy. The white cypress is 
rarely seen. A number of shrubs which are included in this list have 
proved themselves extremely hardy and able to develop into mature 

|88 



TREES AND SHRUBS FOR SEASIDE PLANTING 189 

types which make excellent specimens and good mass plantings. 
The location considered in this discussion is along the northeast shore, 
where the exposure is the most severe. In the inland sections, removed 
from the severe exposure of the salt water, and protected by buildings 
and woodland developments, a large part of the list of generally hardy 
shrubs used throughout New England can be planted with safety. 
All of the material in this group, however, has been under observation 
for a number of years and has proven itself thoroughly hardy. 

In going farther south along the less-exposed New England shores 
we find a group of trees and shrubs which are fully hardy, but which 
do not develop at their best along the severe exposures of the Maine 
Coast. All of the material shown in the first list is fully hardy along 
the New England Coast and the less-exposed shore locations. There 
are many other shrubs which might prove hardy. Under the author's 
observation many types of this material have been used at one time or 
another. Sources of responsible information have been further con- 
sulted and manyplants of questionable hardiness, which might otherwise 
have been included in these groups, have been for the present omitted. 

LIST OF TREES AND SHRUBS FOR SEASIDE PLANTING 

A. Plants Hardy Under the Severe Exposure of the North 
Atlantic Coast. Our only safe guide in the selection of plant types 
for the extreme exposures along the northeast coast is the experience of 
those who have endeavoured to acclimate a wide range of plant 
materials. These plants have proved thoroughly hardy, but it is 
possible that other plants which may be tested out in other locations 
or in the future will prove equally as hardy. 

a. Deciduous trees: 

Acer rubrum Popidus ddtoides nionilifera 

Red Maple Northern Cottonwood 

Betula papyrifera Popidus nigra italica 

Paper Birch Lombardy Poplar 

Betula populifolia Primus serotina 

American White Birch Wild Black Cherry 

Populus alba Quercus rubra 

White Poplar Red Oak 

Populus balsamifera Salix alba 

Balsam Poplar White Willow 

Salix lucida 
Shining Willow 



I go 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



b. Conifers: 

Juniperus proslrata 

Dwarf Savin 
Juniperus virginiana (native forms) 

Red Cedar 
Larix laricina 

Tamarack 
Picea alba 

White Spruce 
Picea pungens glauca 

Koster's Blue Spruce 



Picea rubra 

Red Spruce 
Pinus banksiana 

Jack Pine 
Pinus montana 

Swiss Mountain Pine 
Pinus resinosa 

Red Pine 
Pinus rigida 

Pitch Pine 



c. Shrubs: 

/ilnus incana 

Speckled Alder 
Alnus rugosa serrulata 

Smooth Alder 
Ampelopsis quinquefolia 

Virginia Creeper 
Baccharis halimifolia 

Groundsel Bush 
Berberis thunbergi 

Thunberg's Japanese Barberry 
Chamaedaphne calyculata 

Leather-leaf 
Comptonia asplenijolia 

Sweet Fern 
Hippophae rhamnoides 

Sea Buckthorn 
Hydrangea arborescens grandiflora 

Large-flowered Wild Hydrangea 
Ilex verticillata 

Winterberry 
Ligustrum ibota regelianum 

Regel's Privet 
Ligustrum vulgare 

European Privet 
Lonicera tatarica 

Tartarian Honeysuckle 
Lycium barbarum 

African Matrimony Vine 



Lyonia ligustrina 

Andromeda 
Myrica cerifera 

Bayberry 
Nemopanthus mucronata 

Mountain Holly 
Prunus maritima 

Beach Plum 
Rhus glabra 

Smooth Sumac 
Rhus typhina 

Staghom Sumac 
Rosa lucida 

Glossy Rose 
Rosa rugosa 

Japanese Rose 
Rosa setigera 

Prairie Rose 
Sambucus canadensis 

American Elder 
Shephe'dia canadensis 

Canadian Buffalo Berry 
Spiraea salicifolia 

Meadowsweet 
Viburnum cassinoides 

Withe-rod 
Viburnum dentatum 

Arrow-wood 



B. Plants Hardy in the Less Severe Seaside Exposures. 
Under the less severe conditions of seaside exposure there is a greater 
range of plants which may be used in addition to those shown under 
Group A. Most of the material in this part of the list is not adapted for 
use in the extreme northern section of the seacoast. 




Plate XXVIII. This open allee is framed on either side liy a solid row 
of closely sheared thorn trees. Its formal lines are softened by the row of 
pink flowermg dogwoods which add a charm of flowers in early spring and of 
fruit in the late fall. Thorns planted 4 to 5 feet apart and dogwoods 8 feet 
apart. Width between rows of thorns 22 feet and between rows of dogwoods 
Q to 10 feet. (See pages 144 and 147, group XVI-D-b) 



... Ji- ■■ - ■■:* 


ii 


. ., ^1 






Plate XXIX. An open allee 12 feet wide and 800 feet long, developed 
by the use of white birch planted 3 to 4 feet apart in each row. For a per- 
manent allee of this type the birch is not ideal because of its short-lived 
characteristics and susceptibility to borer. Thorns, or the European beech, 
would he prefcr.ilile. (See page 147, group X\'l-D-b-i) 



TREES AND SHRUBS FOR SEASIDE PLANTING 191 

a. Deciduous trees: 



Acer ^innale 

Siberian Maple 
Amelanchier oblongifolia 

Shad-bush 
Celtis occidentalis 

Nettle Tree 
Crataegus coccinea 

Scarlet-fruited Thorn 
Crataegus cordata 

Washington Thorn 
Crataegus crus-galli 

Cockspur Thorn 
Crataegus oxycantha 

May Thorn 



Gleditsia triacanthos 

Honey Locust 
Platanus occidentalis 

American Plane 
Populus alba pyramidalis 

Bolle's Poplar 
Prunus pumila 

Sand Cherry 
Ptelea trifoliata 

Hop Tree 
Robinia pseudacacia 

Black Locust 
Salix pentandra 

Laurel-leaved Willow 



Salix vilellina aurea 

Golden-barked Willow 



h. Conifers: 

Junipervs sahina (in variety) 

Savin Juniper 
Pinus densiflora 

Japanese Red Pine 



Pinus nigra austriaca 
Austrian Pine 

Pinus sylvestris 
Scotch Pine 



c. Shrubs: 

Calluna vulgaris 

Scotch Heather 
Clethra alnifolia 

Sweet Pepper Bush 
Cornus amomum 

Silky Dogwood 
Cytisus scoparius 

Scotch Broom 
Dirca palustris 

Leather-wood 
Genista tinctoria 

Dyer's Greenweed 
Hibiscus syriacus 

Rose of Sharon 
Hydrangea (in variety) 

Hydrangea 
Hypericum kalmianum 

Kalm's St. John's Wort 
Itea virginica 

Virginian Willow 
Lycium chinense 

Chinese Matrimony Vine 



Rhodotypos kerrioides 

White Kerria 
Rhus copallina 

Shining Sumac 
Robinia hispida 

Rose Acacia 
Rosa blanda 

Meadow Rose 
Rosa Carolina 

Carolina Rose 
Rosa multiflora 

Japanese Climbing Rose 
Rosa nitida 

Shining-leaved Rose 
Rosa spinosissima 

Scotch Rose 
Rubus odoratus 

Flowering Raspberry 
Symphoricarpos vulgaris 

Indian Currant 
Fiburnum lentago 

Sheep Berry 



CHAPTER XXVII 
PLANTS FOR PARTIALLY SHADED LOCATIONS 

It often becomes necessary to make a selection of the lower- 
growing trees and shrubs to be planted in partially shaded situations. 
This condition may be brought about by the location of buildings, by 
the location of individual groups of large trees, and by the location 
of scattered specimen trees. We are not considering, m this compila- 
tion, the group of materials shown in Chapter XXVIII, which is not 
only adapted to this same condition of partial shade but has further 
value in being adapted to heavily shaded areas under wooded con- 
ditions. The shrubs in this list are those which may be used to a 
great degree of safety on lawn areas where a more or less refined plant- 
ing is necessary, and where native plants are not so much desired. 

The difficulty with many kinds of trees and shrubs planted in shaded 
locations is that the lack of sunlight prevents them from attaining a 
normal development. The foliage becomes thin and the branches are 
apt to grow long and spindly. Plants indigenous to such conditions, 
however, and which have come to thrive with this lessened supply of 
light, in partially shaded conditions, develop an interesting type of 
foliage; but flower effects on such plants are never quite as heavy as on 
plants which are supplied with sufficient light. In the making of 
plantations of this kind the only logical hope can be that of pro- 
ducing a foliage effect which serves as a background for a lawn and 
also often serves as a partial screen to give privacy to some garden or 
to shut off a service yard or other undesirable area. 

The bush honeysuckle, the arrow-wood, and the privet form a denser 
foliage than any of the other types of plants in this group. 

LIST OF PLANTS FOR PARTIALLY SHADED LOCATIONS 

As contrasted with the plants listed under Chapter XXVIII, most of 
the types in this list are adapted for use on the refined lawn areas where 
fruit and flowers, together with a heavy texture of foliage in the mature 
plant, are of great value. In fact, some of these plants such as the 

192 



PLANTS FOR PARTIALLY SHADED LOCATIONS 193 

ground yew and the kalmia, will thrive better under partially shaded 
conditions than under conditions of open exposure to the sun. 



Acer pennsylvanicum 

Striped Maple 
Amelanchier oblongifolia 

Shad-bush 
Azalea (in variety) 

Native Azalea 
Benzoin aestivale 

Spice Bush 
Calycanthus floridus 

Strawberry Shrub 
Ceanothus americanus 

New Jersey Tea 
^ Clethra alnijolia 

Sweet Pepper Bush 
Cornus alternifolia 

Alternate-leaved Dogwood 
Cornus florida 

Flowering Dogwood 
Cornus mas 

Cornelian Cherry 
Diervilla hybrida lutea-marginaia 

Variegated Weigela 
Diervilla trifida 

Bush Honeysuckle 
Hamamelis virginiana 

Witch Hazel 
Hydrangea arborescens 

Wild Hydrangea 
Hydrangea quercifolia 

Oak-leaved Hydrangea 
Kalmia latijolia 

Mountain Laurel 



Lonicera taiarica 

Tartarian Honeysuckle 
Philadelphus coronarius 

Mock Orange 
Picea alba 

White Spruce 
Rhamnus caroliniana 

Carolina Buckthorn 
Rhododendron (in variety) 

Rhododendron 
Rhodotypos kerrioides 

White Kerria 
Syrhphoricarpos racemosus 

Snowberry 
Symphoricarpos vulgaris 

Indian Currant 
Taxus canadensis 

Ground Yew 
Tsuga canadensis 

Canadian Hemlock 



Ligustrum (in variety) 
Privet 



Viburnum acerifolium 

Maple-leaved Viburnum 
Viburnum alnijolium 

Hobble-bush 
- Viburnum dentaium 

Arrow-wood 
Viburnum lent ago 

Sheep Berry 
Viburnum opulus 

High-bush Cranberry 
Viburnum prunifolium 

Black Haw 
Viburnum pubescens 

Downy-leaved Arrow-wood 
Zanlhoxylum americanum 
Prickly-ash 



CHAPTER XXVIII 

PLANTS FOR UNDERGROWTH PLANTING IN 
WOODED AREAS 

The plants which most successfully fill the requirements for under- 
growth planting are our native woodland species. These requirements 
are mainly the abihty to succeed in partial or dense shade and also to 
survive the struggle for moisture, food, and room which always exists 
in a naturalistic planting where the ground below and the air above 
are already well occupied by large trees. Our northern forests con- 
tain a profusion of plants which will succeed as undergrowth. But 
too often in the past not enough care has been taken to choose only 
those plants which are desirable from an ornamental point of view. It 
is possible, however, to select from the large amount of available mate- 
rial all the plants which are necessary to carry out an undergrowth 
planting on any scale, and at the same time use only plants which are 
desirable on account of their flowering habits, their fruits, the autumn 
colouration of their leaves, their evergreen character, or some equally 
valuable characteristic quality. 

One of the best examples of a successful shrub for undergrowth is the 
well-known maple-leaved viburnum, which produces white flowers in 
June and blue fruits in the autumn, and whose leaves in autumn have a 
striking pink colour. Other shrubs which lend themselves very readily 
to undergrowth planting are the sweet pepper bush, with its profuse 
white flowers; the Carolina allspice, on account of its fragrance and 
autumn colour; and the chokeberries and winterberry, useful for their 
striking autumn fruits. Among the coniferous evergreens the native 
hemlock and the balsam fir are very satisfactory plants. The Douglas 
spruce also promises well and is adaptable to almost any soil. 

In choosing smaller plants of perennial herbaceous character much 
care should be taken to avoid weedy species or those without some 
especially worth-while characteristic. There are many native forms 
which are valuable for their green foliage alone, such as the Christmas 
fern, which is evergreen also, the ostrich fern, Claj'ton's fern, and the 

194 



UNDERGROWTH PLANTING IN WOODED AREAS 195 

maidenhair fern. Among the valuable asters are several which 
bloom profusely during the late summer and autumn months when 
other woodland flowers are scarce. The old-fashioned dead nettle, 
which does not sting, and its variegated leaved variety, provide 
flowers from May to September, when colonized in moist shade, 
and the goldenrods also, such as the blue-stemmed and the variety 
called speciosa, enliven the woods from August to October. Among 
the plants which will be found valuable for forming mats of ground 
cover and some of which are evergreen in character are the money- 
wort, English ivy, running strawberry-bush, spotted wintergreen, and 
the dwarf cornus or bunchberry. 

As a rule these plants succeed best when planted in small colonies 
and when used to face down clumps of shrubs which may in turn be 
used against an evergreen background. Thus, plantings may be 
grouped so as to provide interesting combinations along the sides of 
paths and at ends of vistas. If the natural mulch layer has disappeared 
an effort should be made to reproduce it as soon as possible after 
planting and care should be taken to see that forest fires do not burn 
off the autumn leaves which nature provides for a winter cover. When 
leaves drift in so thickly as to threaten to smother the smaller plants 
a portion of these leaves may be removed; but as a general rule it is not 
wise to do too much cleaning up unless the desirable plants are in 
danger of being overwhelmed by the mulch or by larger native plants. 
One of the most common faults in woodland landscape developments 
is the attempt to "clean up" existing undergrowth rather than to 
study its interesting possibilities in combination with many types of 
plants valuable for foliage, flowers, and fruit. 

All these types of plants are adapted for use in woodland wild 
garden areas, and without exception they will in time naturalize them- 
selves. In developing plantings of this type it is much better practice 
to lay the foundation during the first season by planting sparsely over 
the entire planting area. During the succeeding season many plants 
can be added to supplement the planting which is in place and to re- 
place those which have died in the process of establishing themselves. 
The best results are obtained by so laying out the planting develop- 
ment that a period of at least three years is required in which to put all 
of the material into its permanent location. The development of mass 
plantations under heavily shaded conditions is quite a diff^erent prob- 
lem from the development of mass plantations on open and refined 



196 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



lawn areas where planting should be practically completed during the 
first two seasons. Experience has taught those who have watched this 
type of plantations develop that a great percentage of loss must be 
anticipated, for two reasons: In the first place, plants are placed under 
abnormal conditions of lack of sunlight, and second, the available 
artificial water supply is apt to be very limited. The process of 
naturalizing plants and acclimating them to conditions of this kind 
must naturally be a slow process if the results when the work is com- 
pleted are to be a success from a landscape standpoint. 

It is quite essential in naturalizing perennials in a wild garden 
that conditions similar to those under which the plant was previously 
growing should be reproduced. A number of wild garden develop- 
ments have at different times become failures because as trees have 
died, thus changing the conditions of shade, these trees have not been 
replaced, and the result is that this changing of shade conditions has 
caused the killing out of many types of perennials which are especially 
susceptible to changed conditions of this character. 



LIST OF PLANTS FOR UNDERGROWTH PLANTING IN 
WOODED AREAS 

Most of the plants contained in this list can be collected from the 
fields and woods. The larger plants are valuable as background for 
wild garden planting and for undergrowth planting in wooded areas. 
For information supplementing this refer to Chapter XXIX-C. 



A. Shrubs and Small Trees: 

Abies balsamea 

Balsam Fir 
Acer saccharum 

Sugar Maple 
Arctostaphylos uva-ursi 

Bearberry 
Aronia arbuttfolia 

Red Chokeberry 
Aronia melanocarpa 

Black Chokeberry 
Benzoin aestivale 

Spice Bush 
Calycanthus floridus 

Strawberry Shrub 
Carpinns caroliniana 

American Hornbeam 



Ceanoihus americanus 

New Jersey Tea 
Clethra alnifolia 

Sweet Pepper Bush 
Cornus alternifolia 

Alternate-leaved Dogwood 
Cornus florida 

Flowering Dogwood 
Hamamelis virginiana 

Witch Hazel 
Hydrangea arborescens 

Wild Hydrangea 
Ilex verticillata 

Winterberry 
Leiicothoe catesbaei 

Catesby's Andromeda 



UNDERGROWTH PLANTING IN WOODED AREAS 197 



Rhododendron (Native Collected) 

Rhododendron 
Rubus odoratus 

Flowering Raspberry 
Staphylea trifolia 

American Bladdernut 



Myrica gale 

Bayberry 
Philadelphus inodorus 

Scentless Mock Orange 
Physocarpus opulifolius 

Ninebark 
Pinus montana 

Swiss Mountain Pine 
Rhamnus caroliniana Viburnum acerijolium 

Carolina Buckthorn Maple-leaved Viburnum 

Zanthoxylum americanum 
Prickly-ash 



Tsuga canadensis 
Canadian Hemlock 



B. Ground Cover Plants: 

Actaea spicata 

Cohosh 
Adiantum pedatiim 

Maidenhair Fern 
Ajuga reptans 

Bugle 
Anemone pennsylvanica 

Canadian Windflower 
Aralia racemosa 

American Spikenard 
Aspidium acrostichoides 

Christmas Fern 
Aspidium marginale 

Margined Fern 
Aster acuminatus 

Sharp-leaved Aster 
Aster cordifolius 

Starwort Aster 
Aster corymbosus 

Wild Aster 
Aster patens 

Spreading Aster 
Chimaphila maculata 

Pipsissewa 
Cimicifuga racemosa 

Snakeroot 
Convallaria majalis 

Lily-of-the-valley 
Cornus canadensis 

Bunchberry 
Cypripedium 

Lady's Slipper 
Dennstaedtia punctilobula 

Hay-scented Fern 
Evonymus obovatus 

Running Strawberry Bush 



Evonymus radicans 

Climbing Evonymus 
Evonymus radicans acutus 

Hybrid Japanese Evergreen Ivy 
Galium boreale 

Northern Bedstraw 
Geranium maculatum 

Crane's Bill 
Hedera helix 

English Ivy 
Helianthemum chamaecistus 

Rock Rose 
Hepatica triloba 

Hepatica 
Hydrastis canadensis 

Golden Seal 
Hypericum calycinum 

Aaron's Beard 
Hypericum kalmianum 

Kalm's St. John's Wort 
Lamium maculatum 

Dead Nettle 
Lysimachia nummularia 

Moneywort 
Mahonia repens 

Creeping Mahonia 
Mitchella repens 

Partridge Berry 
Onoclea sensibilis 

Sensitive Fern 
Onoclea struihiopteris 

Ostrich Fern 
Osmunda clayioniana 

Clayton's Fern 
Pachistima canbyi 

Canby's Mountain Lover 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

Phlox divaricata SoUdago caesia 

Wild Sweet William Blue-stemmed Goldenrod 

Podophyllum peltatum SoUdago speciosa 

Mandrake Showy Goldenrod 

Polypodium vulgare Trillium (in variety) 

Polypody Wake Robin 

Sanguinaria canadensis Vinca minor 

Bloodroot Periwmkle 

SoUdago arguta Viola canadensis 

Sharp-leaved Goldenrod Canadian Violet 
Viola cucullata 
Common Violet 



CHAPTER XXIX 
PLANTS FOR GROUND COVER 

Ground-cover plants are distinctly valuable for a use covered by the 
literal interpretation of the word. The conditions v^rhich they over- 
come may not be unsightly or entirely barren. Their general use is to 
provide on the ground an interesting carpet, v^^hich may be close- 
growing, as in the instance of vines and the very low perennials, or 
taller-growing, as in the instance of yellowroot and flowering raspberry. 

We may say that ground-cover plants are used to make a more 
interesting mat, which is an aesthetic use, or to form a carpet for the 
purpose of preventing excessive evaporation. Many of these plants 
are useful because of their fruiting characteristics, and also their ability 
to retain their foliage, both during the hot, dry summer months and 
during the winter months. In the selection of this material there are 
many different and distinct uses which can be definitely grouped under 
various headings, as shown in this chapter. 

As a matter of fact, any plants, whether high or low, serve as a 
ground cover in some sense of the word. The tall-growing plants, 
which are often seen planted in close masses and included in the 
groups of tall-growing shrubs, are discussed under the headings of 
"mass plantings" and also "undergrowth plantations." This dis- 
cussion does not attempt to treat those groups. 

It has seemed best, rather than to include in one general list all of 
the plants used for ground cover, to make an eflFort, at least, to separate 
into a number of subheadings the specific uses for which ground- 
cover plants may be selected. The person familiar with plant adapta- 
tions knows that there are distinct groups of plants which are 
adapted to low, moist conditions, as there are distinct groups of plants 
adapted to dry and sunny conditions also. Those of us who have had 
considerable experience in the planting of perennials in different types of 
garden soil, as affected either by the type of soil or the kind of drainage, 
know that certain plants will thrive in a very moist soil, while other 
plants take a great dislike to moist conditions, and will thrive only 

199 



200 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

when the soil is well drained or light and sandy. There are some 
plants, however, like the moss pink, the sea thrift, and the Japanese 
evergreen ivy, which seem to thrive almost equally well in moist 
situations or dry situations. The plants shown in Group A are those 
which have proved their value as being adapted to conditions which 
are continually moist, and should preferably be grown in the open 
sunlight and not subjected to any considerable degree of shade. 

Plants which are adapted to dry situations, especially conditions of 
sandy soil or extreme drainage where grass will not thrive, include a 
small group which have proved themselves very hardy. The bar- 
berry, the Japanese spurge, the moss pink, and the stonecrops are fully 
representative of this group. The mat of foliage formed by the plants 
in their more mature development serves to shade the ground beneath 
and, to a certain extent, to retain much moisture in the soil which 
otiierwise would be lost through evaporation. This group includes the 
close-growing types of plants which are selected mostly because of their 
abihty to form a definite mat. Many of them such as the stonecrops, 
the tunica, and the moss pink, are extremely valuable because of their 
flowering habit, although effective during a short period only. The 
Japanese spurge, the partridge berry, and the bearberry are valuable 
distinctly on account of their foliage habits. 

The plantsman is often called upon to select material which may be 
vines, perennials, or low-growing shrubs, to be used for ground-cover 
purposes under large trees, and in situations heavily shaded by build- 
ings. Most of these plants should have, for their most successful 
growth, an excellent topsoil containing a small percentage of clay, or a 
rich woodland loam consisting mostly of well-rotted leaf mold and 
fibrous roots. These plants are valuable because of their ability to 
thrive under extreme shade. One often sees in large lawn areas and 
at the edges of woods, or on the shady side of buildings, spots which 
receive little or no sunlight where grass will not thrive and where most 
of our ordinary shrubs and perennials grow thin, leggy, and not vigor- 
ous. In such locations the only real solution lies in the selection of 
plants which will form a ground cover and thus preserve a mat of 
interesting green foliage. Many of these plants also, like the bunch- 
berry, the ground yew, and the partridge berry, have interesting fruit. 
The waterleaf, the moneywort, and the Japanese evergreen spurge are 
types valuable only because of their foliage, and the stonecrops, the 
periwinkle, and the wake robin are valuable also because of their inter- 



PLANTS FOR GROUND COVER 201 

esting flowers. This list of plants does not endeavour to cover the 
group shown under "perennials valuable for ground cover in wild 
garden areas," but if one is seeking more complete information on this 
subject both this group and the discussion on "wild garden areas" 
should be consulted. (Chapter XXXI-C.) 

The question of how to make interesting those embankments and 
slopes that are otherwise unattractive is one which often confronts us. 
The plants which are used for this purpose are included under the 
groups of shrubs, 'perennials, and vines, and the kind of materials 
selected, whether shrubs, perennials, or vines, depends upon the scale 
of the effect which is desired. That is, for coarse, rocky embank- 
ments, marked with large boulders, and which are to have a rocky 
appearance, the larger shrubs and vines are most valuable, while for 
a more refined effect in the intimate portions of the landscape setting 
the perennials and smaller-growing vines are more effective. Most 
embankments and rocky slopes are composed of sandy, well-drained, 
and generally dry soil. Here plants such as roses, matrimony vine, 
and buffalo berry are valuable for their fruit. The honeysuckles and 
the yellow-root are valuable for their foliage, and the flowering rasp- 
berry and prairie rose for their flowers. Most plantings in such sit- 
uations will require considerable care and watering during the first two 
years after transplanting. But subsequent to this time these plants, 
if properly selected, will continue to thrive, having been thoroughly 
acclimated to the new location. 

Another valuable group of ground-cover plants are those which 
are used to fill crevices between stepping-stones or between the flag- 
ging of paved terrace areas. This list is composed of small-flowering 
and foliage plants, both perennials and annuals, which are usually 
planted in small soil spaces between the stones. Their greatest value 
is to relieve the monotonous, bare effect of walks and terrace areas, 
to which so much interest would be added by a touch of colour, either 
in foliage or flowers, obtained through a proper planting of well- 
selected material included in this group. Many of these plants, if left 
to themselves, will after the first two or three years spread rapidly 
and will require much attention to keep them within the proper limits. 
Many paved walk and terrace areas are overplanted and consequently 
a careful selection of a few of these plants is much better than an 
over-supply. The rock cress, sea thrift, stonecrop, and creeping phlox 
are types which are adapted to the small, refined spaces, while for 



202 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

terraces on a large scale, the dwarf iris, evergreen candytuft, tunica, and 
speedwell are plants which should be used. It is quite probable, in 
many instances on paved areas which to be on a firm foundation have 
but a small layer of loam between the stone and the cinders, that these 
plants will be frequently winter-killed and require replacing. If it so 
happens that these paved areas can be successfully laid, because of 
local climatic conditions, upon a good depth of sandy loam, then 
these plants must seldom be replaced, but rather frequently thinned 
out. 

There are many indigenous mosses which can readily be trans- 
planted in tufts to fill the crevices between the stones on paved walks, 
thus presenting the appearance of age during the first years after con- 
struction. Most of the mosses require a considerable quantity of 
water to make them thrive. There are a few varieties, however, 
found in open, sunny locations, that will thrive with little moisture. 
Therefore, before using moss to fill the crevices between flags on paved 
areas, the natural habitat of the moss to be used should be known. 

In one of the former groups of plants for dry locations and for em- 
bankments, the discussion was directed toward the effects of drj'ing 
out. There are instances where the open exposure and the effect of 
the sun develop a situation requiring plants that will withstand ex- 
treme sun exposure. These plants can be adapted to light, sandy 
soil, and they form a small group, with the stonecrops, the Adam's 
needle, and the maiden pink as typical varieties, which may be planted 
under the most adverse conditions of exposure and sun. 

Quite often one finds plantations of rhododendrons and azaleas which 
have fallen just short of being really interesting because of the lack of 
some ground-cover planting to give the added and desired touch of in- 
terest. This may be for the purpose of relieving the bare ground 
around the edges of the plantation, so often covered in a successful 
manner with Japanese spurge, periwinkles, ferns, and andromedas. It 
may be that one desires a touch of colour so often obtamed by the 
introduction of the different types of lilies, which can be successfully 
grown in plantations of hybrid rhododendrons. Especially in plantings 
of large and native rhododendrons, many of these ground-cover plants 
can be introduced with a great degree of success to relieve the "leggy" 
appearance of these plants and to make an interesting mat over the 
ground which might otherwise be more or less bare. The ground 
among rhododendrons is subject to more or less heavy shade for two 



PLANTS FOR GROUND COVER 203 

reasons. In the first place, the rhododendron foliage itself provides 
considerable shade at the base of the plant, and the nature of the 
rhododendron plant requires shade for its successful growth. Con- 
sequently, these ground-cover plants should be such as are adapted to 
the general conditions of woodland shade. It is inadvisable to culti- 
vate the soil around the base of rhododendrons and azaleas. These 
plants ought to be such that when once planted they will require no 
further cultivation other than the addition of a small amount of leaf 
mold from year to year, to provide the necessary food supply. 

The last and one of the interesting types of ground cover is that 
used in the development of rose gardens, to provide a mat of foliage or 
flowers between the rose bushes. Plants used for this purpose, such 
as the tufted pansy, the common verbena, and rose moss, ought to be 
shallow-rooted types, with low, spreading characteristics. The 
reason why a ground cover is desired in a rose garden is that during a 
portion of the summer months the ground is often bare. There is an 
argument, however, against the use of any ground cover throughout the 
rose garden in that the constant cultivation which is the best aid to 
the good development of roses cannot be done. Many of the success- 
ful English rose gardens are filled with these ground-cover plants. 
Where plants of this kind are used the roses should be well cultivated 
in the early spring and should be well cultivated again in the early or 
late fall, and they should be well fertilized also to insure sufficient food 
in the soil to provide for both the growth of the ground-cover plants 
and the roses. These plants, all of which are interesting for their 
flowering habits, provide an interesting group of colour at a season 
of the year when most of the roses have passed the height of their 
bloom. 

LIST OF PLANTS FOR GROUND COVER 

A. Moist Locations. This group of plants is adapted for loca- 
tions where the soil conditions are apt to be continually moist. There 
are some perennials which will not thrive and will rot where the 
ground is continually moist. It is therefore desirable to have a group 
from which to select plants when these exceptional conditions of soil 
or drainage are encountered. 

Achillea tomejiiosa Alyssum saxatile compacium 

Yellow Milfoil Golden Tuft 

Ajuga reptans Arabis alpina 

Bugle Alpine Rock Cress 



204 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



Armeria maritima 

Sea Thrift 
Asperula odorata 

Sweet Woodruff 
Bellis perennis 

English Daisy 
Campannla carpatica 

Carpathian Harebell 
Daphne cneorum 

Garland Flower 
Epigaea repens 

Trailing Arbutus 
Erica 

Heath 
Evonymus radicans 

Climbing Evonymus 
Evonymus radicans aculus 

Hybrid Japanese Evergreen Ivy 
Evonymus radicans vegetus 

Scarlet-fruited Japanese Evergreen 
Festuca glauca 

Blue Fescue Grass 
Fiinkia (in variety) 

Plaintain Lily 
Helleborus niger 

Christmas Rose 
Herniaria glabra 

Herniary 



Iberis sempervirens 

Evergreen Candytuft 
Iris florentina 

Orris Root 
Lysimachia nummularia 

Moneywort 
Myosotis palustris 

Forget-me-not 
Nepeta glechnma 

Ground Ivy 
Phlox stolonifera 

Creeping Phlox 
Phlox subulata (in variety) 

Moss Pink 
Potentilla fruiicosa 

Shrubby Cinquefoil 
Sapnnaria ocymoides 

Rock Soapwort 
Stellaria holostea 
Ivy Starwort 

Thymus serpyllum lanuginosus 

Downy Thyme 
Veronica repens 

Creeping Speedwell 
Vinca minor 

Periwinkle 
Viola cornuta 

Tufted Pansy 
Hola tricolor 
Pansy 



B. Dry Locations. The plants in the following group are es- 
pecially adapted for growing on slopes which are continuously more or 
less dry. The heavy foliage of the plants often forms a ground cover 
which conserves the moisture and many of them are the deep-rooted 
types which will thrive on sandy soils where a normal amount of water 
is not always available. 



Arctostaphylos uva-ursi 

Bearberry 
Arenaria caespitosa 

Tufted Sandwort 
Aster ericoides 

White Heath Aster 
Ceraslium tomeniosum 

Snow-in-summer 
Dianthus deltoides 

Maiden Pink 
Dianthus plumarius 

Scotch Pink 



Festuca glauca 

Blue Fescue Grass 
Gaultheria procumbens 

Wintergreen 
Helianthemum croceum (protect in winter) 

Rock Rose 
Leiophyllum 

Sand Myrtle 
Mitchella repens 

Partridge Berry 
Pachysandra terminalis 

Japanese Spurge 



PLANTS FOR GROUND COVER 



Phlox subttlata 

Moss Pink 
Santolina chamarcyparissus 

Lavender Cotton 
Sedum album 

White Stonecrop 
Sedum spurtum 

Spreading Stonecrop 



Sedum stoloniferum 

Purple Stonecrop 
Tunica saxifraga 

Saxifrage-like Tunica 
Vinca minor 

Periwinkle 
Yucca filamentosa 

Adam's Needle 



205 



C. Shady Locations. The following group of plants contains 
only the most common types which have proved successful for ground 
cover under large trees and in heavily shaded situations on lawns. 
It is best for most of these plants to have as a basis for their growth 
good soil, although some of them, such as the periwinkle and the Japa- 
nese spurge, will grow under extreme conditions of light soil with little 
moisture. For the greatest success with this list of plants they should 
be well moistened during dry spells. For supplementary infor- 
mation on ground-cover plants, in shaded locations, see sub-group No. 
XXXI-C. 



Aegopodium podagraria 

Goutweed 
Ajuga reptans 

Bugle 
Convallaria majalis 

Lily-of-the-valley 
Cornus canadensis 

Bunchberry 
Evonymus obovatus 

Running Strawberry Bush 
Evonymus radicans acutus 

Hybrid Japanese Evergreen Ivy 
Gauliheria procumbens 

Wintergreen 
Hedera helix lobata 

English Ivy 
Hepatica triloba 

Hepatica 
Hydrophyllu m appendiculatu m 

Appendaged Water Leaf 
Hydrophyllum virginicum 

Water Leaf 
Lysimachia nummularia 

Moneywort 



Mahonia repens 

Creeping Mahonia 
Mitchella repens 

Partridge Berry 
Pachysandra caroliniana 

Carolina Spurge 
Pachysandra ierminalis 

Japanese Spurge 
Poly gala paucifolia 

Milkwort 
Polygonatum multifiorum 

Solomon's Seal 
Sanguinaria canadensis 

Bloodroot 
Sedum spurium 

Spreading Stonecrop 
Taxus canadensis 

Ground Yew 
Trillium erectum album 

White Wake Robin 
Tussilago jarfara 

Colt's Foot 
Vinca minor 

Periwinkle 



D. Ferns. There is a great variety of ferns adapted for use 
in different types of soil, both as a ground cover in the open and more 



2o6 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



dry shaded places and also in the locations where the ground is con- 
tinually moist. In sub-group a and sub-group h are listed the more 
important types of ferns which may be selected for plantings where it 
is desired to use ferns. 



a. Dry, shady places: 

AspUnium ebeneum 

Ebony Spleenwort 
Asplenium trichnmanes 

Maidenhair Spleenwort 
Aspidium acrostichoides 

Christmas Fern 
Aspidium marginale 

Margined Fern 



b. Moist, shady places: 

Adiantum pedatum 

Maidenhair Fern 
Aspidium acrostichoides 

Christmas Fern 
Aspidium cristatum 

Dwarf Fern 
Aspidium goldieanum 

Goldie's Wood Fern 
Aspidium marginale 

Margined Fern 
Asplenium filix-Joemina 

Lady Fern 



Camptosorus rhizophyllus 

Walking Fern 
Dennstaedtia punctilobula 

Hay-scented Fern 
Osmunda claytoniana 

Clayton's Fern 
Polypodium vulgare 

Polypody 
Woodsia obtusa 
Neat Fern 



Onoclea sensibilis 

Sensitive Fern 
Onoclea struthiopteris 

Ostrich Fern 
Osmunda cinnamomea 

Cinnamon Fern 
Osmunda regalis 

Royal Fern 
Phegopteris hexagonoptera 

Broad Beech Fern 
Woodwardia virginica 

Virginia Chain Fern 



E. Embankments and Rocky Slopes. This group consists mostly 
of vines and scrambling types of shrubs, together with a very few 
interesting hardy perennials. Banks and rocky slopes do not generally 
retain a considerable amount of moisture, and accordingly the material 
which is used should possess a vigorous constitution and low, spread- 
ing habit of growth, and the ability to withstand lack of moisture. The 
embankments which are composed of excellent heavy types of soil, and 
which are constantly cared for, may be covered with any of the low, 
spreading types of shrubs and perennials. 

a. Shrubs: 



Arctostaphylos uva-ursi 
Bearberry 



Comptonia asplenijolia 
Sweet Fern 



PLANTS FOR GROUND COVER 



207 



Cotoneaster korizonialis 

Prostrate Cotoneaster 
Genista iincioria 

Dyer's Greenweed 
Juniperus (prostrate forms) 

Red Cedar 
Kalmia angustifolia 

Sheep Laurel 
Lonicera prostraia 

Prostrate Honeysuckle 
Lonicera spinosa alberti 

Large-fruited Honeysuckle 
Lonicera syringanlha 

Heliotrope Honeysuckle 
Myrica cerifera 

Bayberry 
Rhus canadensis 

Fragrant Sumac 
Rhus copallina 

Shining Sumac 
Rhus glabra 

Smooth Sumac 
Rhus typhina 

Staghom Sumac 



Rosa seligera 

Prairie Rose 
Rosa spinosissima altaica 

Scotch Rose 
Rubus crataegijolius 

Thorn-leaved Raspberry 
Rubus deliciosus 

Rocky Mountain Flowering Raspberry 
Rubus dumetorum 

European Dewberry 
Rubus odoratus 

Flowering Raspberry 
Shepherdia canadtnsis 

Canadian Buffalo Berry 
Sorbaria sorbifolia 

Mountain Ash-leaved Spirea 
Spiraea salicifolia 

Meadow-sweet 
Spiraea tomentosa 

Hardback 
Symphoricarpos vulgaris 

Indian-currant 
Xanthorrhiza apiifolia 

Yellow-root 



Zanthoxylum americanum 
Prickly-ash 



h. Perennials: 

Hypericum calycinum 

Aaron's Beard 
Pachysandra terminalis 

Japanese Spurge 



Phlox subulata 
Moss Pink 

Vinca minor 
Periwinkle 



Ampelopsis aconitifolia 

Cut-leaved Vitis 
Ampelopsis heterophylla 

Asiatic Creeper 
Ampelopsis quinquefoUa 

Virginia Creeper 
Bignonia radicans (in variety) 

Trumpet Vine 
Celastrus orbiculatus 

Japanese Bitter-sweet 
Celastrus scandens 

American Bitter-sweet 



Evonymus radicans acutus 

Hybrid Japanese Evergreen Ivy 
Lonicera japonica halliana 

Japanese Honeysuckle 
Lycium halimifolium 

Matrimony Vine 
Periploca graeca 

Silk Vine 
Pueraria thunbergiana 

Kudzu Vine 
Rosa wichuraiana (in variety) 

Memorial Rose 



Vitis coignetiae 
Crimson Glory Vine 



208 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



F. Small-flowering and Foliage Plants for Crevices Be- 
tween Stepping-stones and for Paved Terrace Areas. This 
group consists of the very dwarf perennials and annuals which may be 
planted in the limited soil pockets between stepping-stones, between 
flagging on paved terraces, and in the narrow crevices between rock 
garden work. Most of the indigenous mosses which are adapted to 
either shady or sunny exposures can be readily transplanted to a cor- 
responding condition, thus providing an appearance of age during the 
first year. 



Arabis albida 

Rock Cress 
Arabis alpina 

Alpine Rock Cress 
Armeria maritima 

Sea Thrift 
Asperula odorata (in shade) 

Sweet Woodruff 
Aubrieiia deltoidea 

Purple Rock Cress 
Bellis perennis 

English Daisy 
Campiosorus rhizophyllus 

Walking Fern 
Cerastium tomentosum 

Snow-in-summer 
Ceratostigma'plumbaginoides 

Leadwort 
Dianthus deltoides 

Maiden Pink 
Evonymus radicans minima 

Small-leaved Japanese Evergreen Ivy 
Goodyera puhescens 

Rattle-snake Plantain 
Iberis sempervirens 

Evergreen Candytuft 
Iris cristata 

Crested Iris 
Iris pumila 

Dwarf Flag 
Iris verna 

American Dwarf Iris 
Linnaea bnrealis 

Twin Flower 

G. Perennials Adapted to Open, Sunny Exposures. This 
small list contains perennials which will withstand extreme exposure 
to the sun. Most of these plants will thrive on a light, sandy soil. 



Lotus corniculatus 

Baby's Slippers 
Nepeta gUchoma 

Ground Ivy 
Phlox stolonifera 

Creeping Phlox 
Phlox subulata 

Moss Pink 
Polemonium reptans 

Greek Valerian 
Primula veris 

English Cowslip 
Pyxidantheru barbulata 

Flowering Moss 
Sedum acre 

Mossy Stonecrop 
Sempervivum arachnoideum 

Spiderweb Houseleek 
Silene alpestris 

Alpine Catchfly 
Thymus serpyllum lanuginosus 

Downy Thyme 
Tiarella cordifolia 

Foam-flower 
Tunica saxijraga 

Saxifrage-like Tunica 
Veronica rupestris 

Rock Speedwell 
Veronica teucrium prostrata 

Speedwell 
Vinca minor 

Periwinkle 
Viola pedata 

Bird's Foot Violet 



PLANTS FOR GROUND COVER 



209 



Armeria maritima 

Sea Thrift 
Cerastium tomentosum 

Snow-in-summer 
Dianthus deltoides 

Maiden Pink 
Gaillardia aristata 

Blanket Flower 
phlox subulata 

Moss Pink 



Sedum acre 

Mossy Stonecrop 
Sedum sexangulare 

Dark Green Stonecrop 
Sempervivum (in variety) 

Houseleek 
Veronica repens 

Creeping Speedwell 
Yucca filamentosa 

Adam's Needle 



H. Ground Cover Among Rhododendrons and Azaleas. 
This group contains plants which are excellently adapted to the same 
kind of soil and the same kind of treatment as are the types of rhodo- 
dendrons and azaleas with which they are used. Many of these plants 
such as the lilies, Hypericums, and some others, provide flowers during a 
portion of the season when the large shrubs are not in flower. 



Aronia arbuiifolia 

Red Chokeberry 
Asarttm canadense 

Wild Ginger 
Chamaedaphne calyculata 

Leather-leaf 
Cotone aster horizontalis 

Prostrate Cotoneaster 
Erythronium (in variety) 

Adder' s-tongue 
Fern (in variety) 

Fern 
Galax aphylla 

Galax 
Goodyera pubescens 

Rattle-snake Plantain 
Helonias bullata 

Swamp-pink 
Houstonia caerulea 

Bluet 
Hypericum calycinum 

Aaron's Beard 
Hypericum moserianum 

Gold-flower 
Hex glabra 

Inkberry 
Ledum groenlandicum 

Labrador Tea 
Leiophyllum (in variety) 

Mountain Heath 



Leucolhoe catesbaei 

Catesby's Andromeda 
Lilium canadense 

Wild Yellow Lily 
Lilium pardalinum 

Panther Lily 
Lilium speciosum 

Japanese Lily 
Lilium superbum 

Turks' Cap Lily 
Lilium teiiuifolium 

Siberian Coral Lily 
Mertensia virginica 

Bluebell 
Mitchella repens 

Partridge Berry 
Pachysandra terminalis 

Japanese Spurge 
Pieris (in variety) 

Fetterbush 
Pyxidanthera harbulata 

Flowering Moss 
Rhodora canadensis 

Rhodora 
Shortia galacifolia 

Shortia 
Taxus canadensis 

Ground Yew 
Trillium (in variety) 

Wake Robin 



2IO THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

Fines minor Viola (in variety) 

Periwinkle Violet 

Vinca minor alha Xanthorrhiza apiifolia 

White Periwinkle Yellow-root 

I. Ground Cover Among Roses. Many persons object to the 
bare ground existing among roses. For the best success in growing 
roses every opportunity should be provided for cultivating the 
area around each rosebush. During a portion of the season, however, 
this bareness of the soil can be overcome by the use of an interesting 
carpet, providing colour at a season of the year when the roses have 
passed the height of their bloom. Any ground-cover planting among 
roses should be watched carefully in order to eliminate the possi- 
bility that the ground-cover plants absorb food which should remain 
for the rose plants, or that they should prevent cultivation at a time 
when the roses need cultivating. 

Alyssum maritimum Poriulaca grandiflora 

Sweet Alyssum Rose Moss 

Dianthus heddewigi Reseda odoraia 

Japanese Pink Mignonette 

Petunia hybrida Verbena hybrida 

Petunia Verbena 

Phlox drummondi Viola cornuta (in variety) 

Annual Phlox Tufted Pansy 
Viola tricolor 
Pansy 



CHAPTER XXX 
GAME COVER PLANTS 

When selecting ground-cover plants and undergrowth plants 
for locations which are naturally attractive to birds, especially the 
game birds, it is possible to provide a more inviting "sanctuary" for 
these birds by the use of plants which produce food either in the way 
of buds and fohage, or of nuts and seeds. These plants are mostly 
native species and many of them are not offered in the catalogs of 
the growers of ornamental plants. They could be easily collected 
where they occur locally or secured from some of the collectors of 
native plants. Seeds also might be easily collected and sown where 
they are to grow. These game cover plants should be estabUshed in 
areas ranging from one hundred feet square to a number of acres, to 
provide combined shelter and food for several kinds of birds at one 
time. The location of these plantings should be chosen so that they 
will not need to be disturbed for some years, and will also be within 
easy flying distance of dense woods, if possible. An ideal location 
would be in a clearing entirely surrounded by woods which contain 
hemlocks or pines or other dense shelter. 

Not only will such plants used as a bird-sanctuary attract our 
permanent bird residents such as the ruffed grouse, bob white, gold- 
finches, nuthatches, and chickadees, but they will attract many other 
seed-eating birds until the cold weather drives them south. 

LIST OF GAME COVER PLANTS 

The following group of plants are valuable for use as ground cover 
where there is also a chance to provide suitable shelters for game 
birds, especially grouse. These groups are: (A) Plants of which the 
buds, blossoms, and foliage are eaten by game birds, and (B) Plants 
of which the nuts or seeds are eaten by game birds. These are mostly 
native plants. 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



A. Foliage, Buds, and Blossoms {Spring Cover): 



Acer (in variety) 

Maple 
Alnus (in variety) 

Alder 
Aster (in variety) 

Hardy Aster 
Astilbe hiternata 

False Goat's Beard 
Azalea (in variety) 

Azalea 
Benzoin aestivale 

Spice Bush 
Betula (in variety) 

Birch 
Corylus (in variety) 

Hazelnut 
Epigaea re pens 

Trailing Arbutus 
Equisetum hyemale' 

Horse-tail Rushes 
Fagus (in variety) 

Beech 
Heiichera (in variety) 

Coral-bells 
Kalmia (in variety) 

Laurel 
Mitchella repens 

Partridge Berry 
Ostrya virginiana 

Hop Hornbeam 
Oxalis (in variety) 

Wood Sorrel 
Picea (in variety) 

Spruce 



Populus (in variety) 

Poplar 
Portulaca ohracea 

Purslane 
Prunus (in variety) 

Wild Cherry and Plum 
Pyrus (in variety) 

Crab 
Ranunculus (in variety) 

Buttercup 
Rubus (in variety) 

Brambles 
Salix (in variety) 

Willow 
Samhucus (in Variety) 

Elderberry 
Saxifraga (in variety) 

Stone-breaker 
Smilax (in variety) 

Greenbrier 
Stellaria media 

Chickweed 
Taraxacum officinale 

Dandelion 
Thalictrum (in variety) 

Meadow-rue 
Thuja (in variety) 

Arborvitae 
Trifolium (in variety) 

Clover 
Vaccinium (in variety) 

Blueberry 
Veronica (in variety) 

Speedwell 



B. Nuts or Seeds {Autumn Cover): 

Acer (in variety) 

Maple 
Belamcanda chinensis 

Blackberry Lily 
Bidens frondosa 

Sticktight 
Carex (in variety) 

Sedge 
Castanea (in variety) 

Chestnut 



Corylus (in variety) 

Hazelnut 
Fagus americana 

Beechnut 
Geum (in variety) 

Avens 
Hamamelis virginiana 

Witch Hazel 
Ilelianthemum canadense 

Frost-weed 



GAME COVER PLANTS 



Impatiens pallida 

Jewel-weed 
Leptamnium virginianuma 

Beechdrop 
Meiboma (in variety) 

Tick Trefoil 
Ostrya virginiana 

Hop Hornbeam 
Pinus rigida 

Pitch Pine 



Polygonum tersicaria 

Lady's Thumb 
Quercus (in variety) 

Oak 
Rumex acctosella 

Sheep Sorrel 
Stellar ia media 

Chickweed 
Tsuga canadensis 

Canadian Hemlock 



Vicia (in variety) 
Vetch 



213 



CHAPTER XXXI 
PERENNIALS FOR DIFFERENT PURPOSES 

Whether to use annuals or perennials, what perennials to use for 
different flowering effects, and how to take care of the perennial garden 
are important questions, the correct answers to which make for the 
success or failure of a flower garden. A flower garden in itself is the 
intimate companion either of those who own it and enjoy working in 
it, or of those who are only sufficiently interested to be thoroughly 
satisfied when an interesting flower effect is produced. There is no part 
of the field of landscape design, from the standpoint of the professional 
designer, from which so much criticism can arise as through the failure 
to produce an interesting flower garden. It is useless to discuss the 
question of taste, concerning the individual preferences for various 
colours of garden flowers; yet to everyone the successful garden im- 
plies a garden filled with flowers. The proper relationship between the 
unusual types and unusual effects becomes a secondary and yet an 
important consideration. 

The success of a perennial planting does not rest entirely with 
the proper selection and proper planting of perennials. A perennial 
garden cannot stand still. It cannot be made to-day and exist to- 
morrow without some care. Many gardens in which the types of 
plants have been selected with extra care have completely failed be- 
cause whoever was responsible for their subsequent maintenance has 
not understood the nature and requirements of the plants with which 
he was dealing. The general rule can be laid down for the success of 
any perennial garden that the one who assumes responsibility for its 
success must be as intimately acquainted with the plants, their 
habits and requirements, as with the members of one's own family. 

Trees, and Their Effect on the Flower Garden. The old 
saying is true, either the flower effect of the garden or the quantity of 
flowers cut for house use must be greatly reduced if the same garden 
is to serve two purposes. It is also true that trees and desirable sorts of 

214 




Plate XXXI. It is quite important in the planting of the spring garden 
tliat the designer should know those shrubs which produce flowers before the 
leaves appear, similar to the Carolina azalea (B), and those early-flowering 
shrubs which produce flowers and leaves at the same time, similar to the blad- 
dernut (A). (See page 154, group XIX-A) 



PERENNIALS FOR DIFFERENT PURPOSES 215 

garden flowers seldom grow in nature together. Most of the garden 
flowering plants demand ample sunlight for their best development. 
For those who develop homes, and attempt the making of a flower 
garden on areas covered with dense shade of large trees, it is impossible 
to provide the ideal flower garden which one may have wished so often 
to possess. Trees must be sacrificed, or soil conditions will be too wet 
or too dry. Spreading roots from such trees will steal plant food from 
the garden, and sunlight so essential for the development of fine 
flowers will be shut out. The true garden lover who realizes that 
plants, like human beings, thrive only in congenial and healthful 
surroundings will either love and preserve his trees or will have the 
courage of his convictions to remove unnecessary trees and give 
to his flower garden ideal conditions of air and sunlight. Morning 
sunlight is generally considered more eff"ective in producing plant 
growth than afternoon sunlight. 

Trees on the north side of a garden are seldom objectionable; 
but most trees within the garden or on the south and west side are very 
undesirable. 

Persons who are planting a perennial garden for the first time, 
and who are not famihar with the flowering types of perennials, should 
adhere, in the selection of plants, to a few hardy types of perennials, 
such as the iris, the phlox, the larkspur, the chrysanthemum, and the 
columbine, together with others shown in this list (XXXI-A). All 
of these, with average care, are certain to produce flowers. The more 
unusual types can be selected and introduced into the garden as one's 
knowledge of them increases. 

For a person who is a lover of garden flowers, and who attempts to 
procure definite colour combinations during different periods of the 
growing season, it is well to outline groups of perennials, from each of 
which material may be selected to produce the desired eff^ect. We 
should associate perennials in groups for season and colour in order to 
use them most successfully. This knowledge comes only with a 
certain experience. There also may be plants found outside of these 
groups which can be used to advantage. The object in compiling 
these groups has been to establish a definite reference list from which 
the more important types can readily be found and associated in one's 
mind with the definite purpose for which they can be best used. 
Frequently, as a matter of taste, one person may desire a garden with 
yellows and blues predominating. Another may desire a garden with 



2i6 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

pinks and whites. It is essential that one should be able to readily 
and definitely select plants for these different purposes. 

The woodland wild garden becomes an important problem because 
the selection of material adapted to partially shaded conditions existing 
in such garden areas does not present the same problems as the selection 
of a type of material adapted to a sunny, open exposure. The term 
"wild garden" applies to the use of plants which can be naturalized; 
plants which, when once planted and given normal care during the 
first year, will become thoroughly acclimated and continue to grow 
vigorously and multiply as the years go by. In the selection of 
material there are two types of plants which can be selected: the 
tall-growing types and the low-growing types. The low-grov/ing 
types are adapted for use in the more intimate, small garden areas, 
where the taller types should be used with great care. It must be 
remembered that many types of wild garden perennials, such as the 
day lilies, the bergamot, and the Japanese loosestrife, will multiply so 
rapidly that they will crowd out many of the less vigorous plants 
such as hepatica and spring beauty which are not able to survive such 
competition. Consequently it is not safe to say that material selected 
for wild garden areas does not require a certain amount of care after 
the first planting of the garden. It should also be borne very definitely 
in mind that plants such as the cardinal flower, some irises, the blazing 
star, the lily-of-the-valley, the cowslip, and the violet require partial 
shade and a moist condition of the soil, while such types as the bee- 
balm, sweet william, asters, and moss pink thrive in a much more ex- 
posed and lighter soil. The success of a wild garden, either large or 
small, depends very largely upon the proper selection of materials to 
produce the required effects. The development of wild garden plant- 
ing requires a series of years in which to complete it and bring it to 
perfection. It is a process, beyond a certain point, of the survival of 
the fittest, and the elimination finally of those plants which prove 
through the first few years their inability to meet the soil and exposure 
requirements of the local situation. A successful wild garden area 
never shows the amount of work that has been expended in its develop- 
ment, because every detail looks finally as though nature had pro- 
vided it without the assistance of man. 

Perennials for wild garden planting are not in use as much as they 
should be even in extensive estate development, because of the 
lack of knowledge concerning the ability of many of the wild flowers 



PERENNIALS FOR DIFFERENT PURPOSES 217 

to adapt themselves to these new environments. Yet this group of 
plants provides to those who are really interested in the development 
of our wild flowers an excellent source of satisfaction. In this day of 
large country estates with the varying types of garden conditions there 
is no reason why the wild garden consisting of plants which have be- 
come naturalized should not be as important as any other type of 
garden, especially to those who are real garden lovers. It is true that 
many of these plants, such as the varieties of the native ferns, require 
special conditions of the soil from a standpoint of soil texture, special 
conditions of the soil from the standpoint of moisture, and also special 
conditions of exposure concerning the question of open sunlight and the 
question of shade. It is unfair to expect that any plants which we 
attempt to naturalize in the wild garden development will continue 
to grow under conditions which are exactly opposite from the condi- 
tions of nature in which these plants have been living a "happy" exist- 
ence in their surroundings of soil and sunlight. The wild garden 
requires, more than anything else, a soil which contains plenty of 
humus and is commonly termed leaf mold soil. If such soil is not 
available then only well-rotted manure or compost should be used. 
No fertilizer such as sheep manure, dried blood, or other fertilizers 
commonly used for the forcing of plants should be applied to wild 
garden material. 

In the use of perennials another problem is often met: that of select- 
ing proper types for planting at the water's edge. These plants must 
be of the kind that will thrive with their "feet in water." The group 
from which selection can be made is comparatively limited, especially 
with reference to genera. Many of these plants, such as the lemon 
lily, the loosestrife, and the iris will soon spread beyond control if not 
carefully thinned out and kept within bounds during the succeeding 
years. Most of this material is adapted to growth in the open sun and 
will not withstand extreme shade conditions. 

In the selection of perennials to be used in the development of the 
large flower garden areas the entire field of perennials is open from 
which to choose. The development of a small, refined flower garden, 
the intimate details of which add to its charm, requires a more careful 
knowledge of perennials, especially of those which usage has proven 
cannot be safely introduced into such hmited areas. These types of 
perennials should be avoided in the development of a small flower 
gardea- They can be used by one who will give them consistent at- 



2i8 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

tention to keep them within bounds by staking and cutting back. 
Otherwise they will produce a loose, ragged effect not in keeping with 
the neat lines desired in a small garden, and will often crowd out inter- 
esting types of smaller perennials which mean more to the success of 
the garden. 

Most varieties of the hardy aster or Michaelmas daisy, the sneeze- 
weed, the loosestrife, and the plume poppy are too rampant and 
vigorous in their habit of growth to be successful in a small garden. 

The most important requirement in the development of any flower 
garden is to provide perpetual bloom throughout the growing season. 
There are a variety of combinations of perennials which can be used 
to accompHsh this purpose. As illustrative of a possible range of 
plants it is well to list some of the thoroughly tested varieties that will 
grow in any good garden soil and which will provide flowers from early 
spring until late fall. For a person who understands plants to some 
extent the lists of perennials, grouped according to colour and season, 
will make an excellent source of reference from which to select types for 
continuous blooming efi^ects. 

There are some perennials, among the most important of which are 
the peony, of which the blooming period is very short and the foliage 
effect during a great part of the summer may be consequently mo- 
notonous and uninteresting. In such plants it is highly desirable 
to have touches of colour throughout the later parts of the season. 
To accomplish this there can be introduced, among the peony plants, 
such types as the monkshood, the blazing star, lilies and gladioli, to 
provide flowers and add interest to the otherwise monotonous mass of 
green leaves. 

A considerable part of the success of any perennial flower garden 
is the presence of groups of perennials which present good blooming 
combinations. Often a garden is seen where some particular colour 
note attracts special attention. On close examination it is found that 
this effect is produced by a combination of colour brought about by 
the successful grouping of two or more perennials. The average 
garden lover cannot become familiar, from his limited study of plants, 
with all of the interesting types of perennials which produce colour 
effects that harmonize with each other. A list of these groupings 
has been included in this chapter, and through further study many 
others may be found which will be equally effective. 

Annuals are most often planted because of their ability to produce 



PERENNIALS FOR DIFFERENT PURPOSES 219 

flowers for cutting. Many perennials are planted for this same 
purpose. There are a few perennials, such as the blanket flower, 
ball of snow, larkspur, and marguerite, which are benefited by con- 
stant cutting, and the flowering season of which is lengthened through 
this process. There are other perennials, such as the foxglove, peony, 
and iris, with which the process of cutting flowers does not encourage 
growth of others during the same season. If such perennials are 
to be used for cut-flower purposes it is best to plant them in a distinct 
cut-flower garden. The same discussion concerning a cut-flower 
garden, and a flower garden as an interesting design, applies to the 
planting of perennials in the same manner that it applies to the 
planting of annuals (See Chapter XXXII, Page 238). 

The majority of perennials will continue to increase from year to 
year and will require "dividing" and transplanting every two or three 
years. There are other perennials which should be treated as biennials 
and accordingly replaced completely by new plants at the end of every 
second year. These plants, such as the foxglove, white pink, English 
daisy, and bellflower will "run out" after a period of two or three years. 
They will still continue to grow, but their vigour will be so much less 
that their presence will be but an apology for strong, healthy speci- 
mens. All of these plants are known as perennials; but in reaUty 
they develop only as biennials. Other perennials, such as the aster, 
phlox, and iris, which grow into large clumps, should be divided at 
least every three years. If they are not so treated they will become 
crowded and the plants will not have space to develop properly and 
the result will be spindly, unhealthy plants which will not produce 
normal flower eflPects. But the peony, in good soil, with space of a 
diameter of approximately three feet in which to grow, is best left to 
grow undisturbed for a score of years or more (Page 88). 

Taken on the whole, no more picturesque or graceful eflTects can be 
produced anywhere than by appropriate planting along the banks of 
ponds and streams. The more bold and picturesque a planting mass 
is, the better it looks when reflected in a still pool; while the flowing 
lines of a stream are supplemented by the graceful, arching branches of 
shrubs and vines. Among the most successful and beautiful plants 
for watersides are the herbaceous perennials. 

Perennials for planting in deep water are largely confined to the lotus 
and water lilies. These plants should not be permanently planted in 
ponds which freeze solid during the winter, nor where there is not 



220 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

plenty of rich soil on the bottom, and an abundance of clear water and 
uninterrupted sunlight. The best locations are on the margins of 
sluggish streams and of bays and in sheltered nooks. Water which 
flows too swiftly or is too cold or contains mud is not good for aquatic 
plants, nor should they be planted in newly constructed cement tanks 
which have not been thoroughly washed and rinsed so as to remove all 
the caustic property of the new cement. The best fertilizer for 
aquatic plants is cow manure, which may be mixed with twice its 
bulk of strong loam and used for planting beds. 

In the water near the margin of a pond many more sorts of aquatic 
and bog plants may be used, such as the native irises or flags, water 
plantains, bulrushes, arrowheads, and marsh marigolds. These 
plants are more hardy and less exacting in their requirements. In- 
deed, they are likely, when congenial conditions occur, to grow so 
luxuriantly as to prove annoying if planted m very large quantities. 
A rich alluvial mud provides the proper soil for most sorts, and once 
established where there is not too much lime in the water, or too swift 
a current, they will take care of themselves. 

For planting on the land at the water's side, a still larger list of plants 
is available. These include many of our common herbaceous garden 
perennials, such as sneeze-weed, Japanese iris, and lemon lily, as well as 
native herbs, such as gentians, cow parsnips, and some of our native 
orchids. With these perennials should be combined, if possible, some 
of the moisture-loving native shrubs. For this purpose nothing is bet- 
ter than the swamp honeysuckle, button bush, red chokeberry, rhodora, 
leather leaf, and wild rosemary, not to mention the more commonly 
known dogwoods or cornels. 

If no special place is assigned to perennials, room may always be 
found for some in the shrub border. Here there should be reluctance 
to place any sorts that require considerable culture or the full develop- 
ment of which might be desired, particularly if they be sorts that are 
prized. One would be loath to subject a valuable variety of the peony, 
for example, to a life-long competition with vigorous shrubs which, 
in addition to sending out more rapid-growmg roots, would have the 
advantage of overtopping it. But there are certain types of perennials 
that can, in every way, be appropriately used to fill bare spaces among 
shrubs that do not yet cover all the space, or at the front edge of the 
border. Here at the edge, if the shrubs do not droop too low or are 
not too vigorous in their habit of growth, may be found a place for a 



PERENNIALS FOR DIFFERENT PURPOSES 221 

fine thing like the evergreen candytuft. In the edge of the shrubbery 
bed can always be found room for some bulbs; they really seem to 
prefer the slight protection of the overhanging branches and the soil 
around the roots of the other plants. An additional consideration is 
that the flowering season of bulbs is not encroached upon by the foliage 
of the shrubs, as would occur to the detriment of perennials that 
flower later in the year. Formal regularity in planting should be 
avoided because most perennials and bulbs appear best in small masses 
or clumps. 

In designing a border planting of perennials or annuals located at the 
edge of masses of shrubs an ample width of four or five feet should be 
allowed, especially if this is the only place for the development of a 
flower border. Unless this provision is made and frequent pruning 
of the shrubs resorted to, the branches of the shrubs even then are apt 
to encroach upon the smaller plants at the front. This does not, 
however, apply to bulbs. Where it is necessary to develop a flower 
border in combination with a border of shrubs which shall serve as its 
background, little success will follow the attempt to develop such a 
border, especially in relation to tall-growing shrubs, if the flower 
border is placed upon the north side. If the shrub border or hedge 
is to consist of tall and vigorous-growing shrubs or columnar trees to 
provide a screen against objectionable views, the designer must always 
remember that competition of perennials with the greedy root systems 
of such plants will starve the perennials. 

LIST OF PERENNIALS FOR DIFFERENT PURPOSES 

A. Types of Hardy Perennials for General Use. For the 
average person who is developing a small garden a knowledge of some 
of the standard types of hardy perennials, which are well adapted for 
general use, will often meet the requirements. This group contains 
standard types of perennials which are adapted for general use, and 
which with ordinary cultivation will produce interesting flower effects. 

Anemone japonica Chrysanthemum 

Japanese Windflower Chrysanthemum 

Anthemis tinctoria kelwayi Delphinium 

Hardy Marguerite Larkspur 

Aquilegia Dianthus 

Columbine Pink 

Aster Doronicum plantagineum 

Aster Leopard's Bane 



222 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



rjs 




Paeonia 


Iris 




. Peony 


ilium 




Phlox 


Lily 


Fiola 
Violet 


Phlox 



B. Perennials According to Colour and Season. This, with 
its sub-groups, is an interesting group. The division of seasons in 
these groups is merely relative and is made for the purpose of obtaining 
some relationship in the succession of bloom throughout the growing 
season. Many perennials in these groups lap over from one group 
into the other, but for convenience of reference they are listed only 
in the season during which they are at their height of bloom. The 
subdivisions into colours of flowers, as a matter of easy reference, will 
prove valuable as a check on one's memory and a saving of time in 
being able to readily select flowers for varying colour eflPects at differ- 
ent seasons. 

a. Perennials for spring — purple, lavender, or blue flowers: 

Ajuga genevensis Mertensia virginica 

Erect Bugle Bluebell 

Anchusa italica Myosotis palustris semperfiorens 

Italian Alkanet Forget-me-not 

Aquihgia caerulea hybrida Folemonium reptans 

Rocky Mountain Columbine Greek Valerian 

Aubrietia deltoidea graeca Primula denticulata 

Grecian Purple Rock Cress Himalayan Primrose 

Iris cristaia Saxifraga cordijolia 

Crested Iris Sa.\ifrage 

Iris germanica hybrids Tradescantia 

German Iris Spiderwort 

Iris pumila azurea Veronica incana 

European Dwarf Iris Hoary Speedwell 

Iris versicolor Finca minor 

Dwarf Blue Flag Periwinkle 

Linum perenne Fiola cornuta 

Perennial Flax Tufted Pansy 

Fiola odorata 
Scented Violet 

b. Perennials for spring — white flowers: 

Anemone pennsylvanica Aquilegia nivea grandiflora 

Canadian Windflower White Columbine 

Anemone syhestris Arabis albida 

Snowdrop Windflower Rock Cress 




Plate XXXIII. As a specimen flowering plant for early spring eflFect, the 
Japanese weeping rose-flowered cherry is extremely interesting covered, al- 
ways before the leaves appear, with an ahiuidance of rose-pink flowers. (See 
page 154, group XIX-A) 



PERENNIALS FOR DIFFERENT PURPOSES 



223 



Arahis alpina 

Alpine Rock Cress 
Armeria maritima alba 

White Sea Thrift 
Cerastium tomentosum 

Snow-in-summer 
Convallaria majalis 

Lily-of-the-valley 
Dianthus plumarius 

Scotch Pink 
Helleborus niger 

Christmas Rose 
Iheris sempervirens 

Evergreen Candytuft 



Paeonia officinalis alba 

Old-fashioned Peony 
Paeonia suffruticosa 

Tree Peony 
Phlox subulata alba 

White Ground Pink 
Sanguinaria canadensis 

Bloodroot 
Stellaria holostea 

Starwort 
Thaliclrum aquilegifolium 

Meadow-rue 
Trillium grandiflorum 

Large-flowered Wake Robin 



Viola cornuta alba 
Horned Violet 



c. Perennials for spring — pink to crimson flowers: 



Aquilegia canadensis 

American Columbine 
Aquilegia formosa hybrida 

California Hybrid Columbine 
Aquilegia hybrida Rose Queen 

Hybrid Pink Columbine 
Armeria maritima laucheana 

Lauch's Sea Thrift 
Bellis perennis 

English Daisy 
Dianthus delloides 

Maiden Pink 
Dianthus plumarius 

Scotch Pink 
Dicentra spectabilis 

Bleeding Heart 
Geranium sanguineum 

Crane's Bill 



Gevm coccineum 

Avens 
Heuchera sanguinea 

Coral-bells 
Iris germanica Queen of May 

Pink German Iris 
Paeonia officinalis 

Old-fashioned Red Peony 
Paeonia suffruticosa 

Tree Peony 
Paeonia tenuifolia 

Fennel-leaved Peony 
Phlox stolonifera 

Creeping Phlox 
Phlox subulata 

Moss Pink 
Primula japonica 

Japanese Primrose 



Saponaria ocymoides 
Rock Soapwort 



d. Perennials for spring — yellow to orange flowers: 



Adonis vernalis 

Pheasant's Eye 
Alyssum saxatile 

Golden Tuft 
Aquilegia chrysantha 

Gold-spurred Columbine 
Baptisia tinctoria 

Yellow False Indigo 



Doronicum excelsum 

Leopard's Bane 
Geum heldreichi 

Orange Avenas 
Helianthemum croceum 

Rock Rose 
Iris germanica jlavescens 

German Iris 



224 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



Iris psfudacorus 
Yellow Water Flag 

Iris pumila hybrida 
European Dwarf Iris 



Primula veris 

English Cowslip 
Trollius europaeus 
Globe-flower 
Viola cornuta lutea 

Yellow Horned Violet 



e. Perennials for summer — purple, lavender, or blue flowers: 



Baptisia australis 

Blue Indigo 
Campanula carpahca 

Carpathian Harebell 
Campanula medium 

Canterbury Bells 
Campanula persicifolia 

Peach-leaved Harebell 
Campanula pyramidalis 

Chimney Bell-flower 
Centaurea montana 

Mountain Bluet 
Clematis davidiana 

David's Clematis 
Delphinium (in variety) 

Larkspur 
Echinops ritro 

Globe Thistle 
Eryngium amethystinum 

Amethyst Sea Holly 
Fvnhia caerulea 

Blue Plantain Lily 
Funkia fortunei 

Fortune's Plantain Lily 
Funkia lancifolia 

Spear-leaved Plantain Lily 
Funkia sieboldiana 

Siebold's Plantain Lily 



Iris kaempferi 

Japanese Iris 
Iris pallida dalmatica 

Dalmatian Iris 
Iris sibirica 

Siberian Iris 
Lobelia syphilitica 

Blue Cardinal Flower 
Lupinus polyphyllus 

Perennial Lupin 
Phlox paniculata 

variety Crepuscule 

variety Esperance 

variety Blue Hill (royal purple) 

variety Le Mahdi 

variety Antoine Mercie 

Garden Phlox 
Platycodon grandiflorum 

Balloon Flower 
Scabiosa caucasica 

Mourning Bride 
Statice latifolia 

Broad-leaved Sea Lavender 
Siokesia cyanea 

Stokes' Aster 
Veronica longifolia subsessilis 

Japanese Speedwell 
Veronica spicata 

Spike-flowered Speedwell 



/. Perennials for summer — white flowers: 



Achillea boule de neige 

Ball of Snow 
Althaea rosea alba 

Hollyhock 
Artemisia lactiflora 

Southernwood 
Aruncus Sylvester 

Goat's Beard 
Astilbc japonica 

Japanese Astilbe 



Bocconia cordata 

Plume Poppy 
Campanula carpatica alba 

Carpathian Harebell 
Campanula medium calycanthema alba 

Canterbury Bell 
Campanula persicifolia alba 

Peach-leaved Harebell 
Campanula pyramidalis alba 
^Chimney Bell-flower 



PERENNIALS FOR DIFFERENT PURPOSES 



22; 



Chrysanthemum shasta daisy 

Shasta Daisy 
Clematis recta 

Herbaceous Clematis 
Delphinium grandiflorum album, 

Chinese Larkspur 
Dianthus barbatus — zvhite 

Sweet William 
Diciamnus fraxinella alba 

Gas Plant 
Filipendula hexapetala flore pleno 

Dropwort 
Funkia subcordata grandiflora 

Large-flowered Plantain Lily 
Gypsophila paniculata 

Baby's Breath 



Iris kaempferi — white 

Japanese Iris 
Iris sibirica Snow Queen 

Siberian Iris 
Paeonia albiflora sinensis (in variety) 

Chinese Peony 
Papaver orientale — white 

Oriental Poppy 
Phlox paniculata (in variety) 

Garden Phlox 
Phlox sufruticosa Miss Lingard 

Early-flowering Phlox 
Sidalcea Candida 

Sidalcea 
Yucca filamentosa 

Adam's Needle 



Perennials for summer — pink to crimson flowers: 



Althaea rosea 

Hollyhock 
Astilbe davidi 

David's Spirea 
Campanula medium — pink 

Canterbury Bells 
Dianthus barbatus 

Sweet William 
Dicentra eximia 

Wild Bleeding Heart 
Dictamnics fraxinella 

Gas Plant 
Digitalis purpurea rosea 

Pink Foxglove 
Lobelia cardinalis 

Cardinal Flower 
Lychnis chalcedonica 

Maltese Cross 



Lychnis coronaria 

Mullein Pink 
Lychnis viscaria splendens 

Ragged Robin 
Ly thrum salicaria rose urn superbum 

Pink Loose-strife 
Monarda didyma 

Bergamot 
Paeonia albiflora sinensis 

Chinese Peony 
Papaver orientale (in variety) 

Oriental Poppy 
Pentstemon barbatus 

Bearded Pentstemon 
Phlox paniculata (in variety) 

Garden Phlox 



Physostegia virginiana 
False Dragon Head 
Pyrethrum roseum 
Painted Daisy 



h. Perennials for summer — yellow to orange flowers: 



Achillea tomentosa 

Yellow Milfoil 
Althaea rosea — yellow 

Hollyhock 
Anthemis tinctoria kelwayi 

Hardy Marguerite 
Centaurea macrocephala 

Knapweed 



Cephalaria tatarica 

Giant Scabiosa 
Coreopsis grandiflora 

Tickseed 
Coreopsis lanceolata 

Lance-leaved Tickseed 
Digitalis grandiflora 

Yellow Foxglove 



226 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

GaUlardia aristata Hypericum moserianum 

Blanket Flower (jold-flower 

Helianthus (in variety) Oenothera missouriensis 

Hardy Sun-flower Missouri Primrose 

Ileliopsis (in variety) Rudheckia (in variety) 

Ox-eye Daisy Cone-flower 

Hemerocallis (in variety) Thalictrum adiantifolium 

Day Lily Maidenhair Thalictrum 
Thermopsis caroliniana 
False Lupine 

I. Perennials for autumn — purple, lavender, or blue flowers: 

Aconitum (in variety) Caryopteris incana (treat as a perennial) 

Monkshood Blue Spirea 

Aster — Hardy varieties Ceratostigma plumbaginoides 

Climax— Blue Leadwort 

Edward VH — Blue Eupatorium coelestinuir. 

Ed Beckett— Blue Mist Flower 

Feltham's Blue Salvia azurea grandiflora 

novae-angliae — Violet Blue Salvia 

tartaricus — Violet (Last to bloom) Statice latijolia 
Broad-leaved Sea Lavender 

y. Perennials for autumn — white flowers: 

Anemone japonica Caryopteris incana Candida (treat 

Japanese Windflower as a perennial) 

^ ^ ■ ■ , ^-ji Blue Spirea 

Artemisia lactiflora -,, , .... 

Southernwood Chrysanthemum (m variety) 

Hardy Chrysanthemum 
Aster (in variety) Eupatorium ageratoides 

Hardy Aster White Snakeroot 

Boltonia asteroides Hibiscus moscheutos 

Aster-like Boltonia Swamp Mallow 

Sedum (in variety) 
Stonecrop 

k. Perennials for autumn — pink to crimson flowers: 

Anemone japonica — pink Chrysanthemum (in variety) 

Japanese Windflower Hardy Chrysanthemum 

Aster (in variety) Hibiscus moscheutos 

Perry s Favonte Swamp Mallow 

St. Egwm . 

novae-amliae rubra Kntphnfia uvaria 

Perry's Pink Red-hot Poker Plant 

Boltonia latisquama Sedum (in variety) 

Broad-scaled Boltonia Stonecrop 



PERENNIALS FOR DIFFERENT PURPOSES 

/. Perennials for autumn — yellow to orange flowers: 



227 



Chrysanthemum (in variety) 
Hardy Chrysanthemum 

Helenium auluynncile 
Yellow Sneezeweed 



Helenium Riverton Beauty 
Yellow Sneezeweed 

Kniphofia pfitzeri 
Red-hot Poker Plant 



Solidago (in variety) 
Goldenrod 



C. Perennials for Naturalizing in Wild Garden Areas. This 
group contains two sub-groups showing types of perennials which are 
valuable for naturalizing in wild garden areas. Most of these plants 
will thrive in the open sun, as contrasted with the preceding list of 
plants under Chapter XXVIII. 



a. Tall types: 

Aetata alba 

White Baneberry 
Anemone pennsylvanica 

Canadian Windflower 
Aquilegia canadensis 

American Columbine 
Aquilegia vulgaris 

European Columbine 
Aruncus Sylvester 

Goat's Beard 
Asclepias tuberosa 

Butterfly Weed 
Aster cordifolius 

Starwort Aster 
Aster corymbosus 

Wild Aster 
Aster ericoides 

White Heath Aster 
Cimicifuga racemosa 

Snakeroot 
Digitalis purpurea 

Foxglove 
Echinacea purpurea 

Purple Cone-flower 
Eupatorium purpureum 

Joe-pye Weed 
Fern (in variety) 

Fern 
Filipendula hexapetala 

Herbaceous Meadow-sweet 



Filipendula rubra 

Japanese Meadow-sweet 
Helianthus (in variety) 

Hardy Sun-flower 
Hemerocallis (in variety) 

Day Lily 
Hesperis matronalis 

Sweet Rocket 
Iris pseudacorus 

Yellow Water Flag 
Iris sibirica 

Siberian Iris 
Iris versicolor 

Blue Dwarf Flag 
Liairis pycnostachya 

Blazing Star 
Lobelia cardinalis 

Cardinal Flower 
Lychnis (in variety) 

Catchfly 
Lysimachia clethroides 

Japanese Loose-strife 
Monarda fistulosa 

Wild Bergamot 
Phlox divaricata 

Wild Sweet William 
Polemonium caeruleum 

American Jacob's Ladder 
Senecio clivorum 

Groundsel 



228 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



Sidalcea Candida 

Sidalcea 
Smilacina racemosa 

False Spikenard 



b. Low types: 



SoUdago canadensis 

Goldenrod 
Thalictrum aquilegijolium 

Meadow-rue 



Tradescantia (in variety) 
Spiderwort 



Aspidium marginaU 

Margined Fern 
Asperula hexaphylla 

WoodruiF 
Claytonia virginica 

Spring Beauty 
Convallaria majalis 

Lily-of-the-valley 
Hepatica triloba 

Hepatica 
Heuchera sanguinea 

Coral-bell 
Iris cristata 

Crested Iris 
Lamium maculatum 

Dead Nettle 
Mitchella repens 

Partridge Berry 
Myosotis palustris 

Forget-me-not 
Oenothera biennis 

Evening Primrose 
Phlox divaricata 

Wild Sweet William 



Phlox ovata 

Mountain Phlox 
Phlox stolonifera 

Creeping Phlox 
Phlox subulata 

Moss Pink 
Polemonium reptans 

Greek Valerian 
Polygonatum multifiorum 

Solomon's Seal 
Primula (in variety) 

Primrose 
Sanguinaria canadensis 

Bloodroot 
Saponaria ocymoides 

Rock Soapwort 
Trillium grandiflorum 

Large-flowered Wake Robin 
Tunica saxifraga 

Saxifrage-like Tunica 
Fiola canadensis 

Canadian Violet 
Fiola canina 

Dog-tooth Violet 



D. Perennials FOR Long Flowering Period. Not only are peren- 
nials selected because of the colours of the flowers and other character- 
istics such as good blooming combinations, perpetual bloom, and good 
flowers, as shown in the following groups, but many times certain 
types are selected because of their long blooming period. Such plants 
as the yellow marguerite, the Shasta daisy, the blanket flower, and 
certain hardy phloxes, are very valuable in the garden because they 
produce flowers over a long blooming period, extending in instances for 
three or four weeks. Some of these plants require cutting back, like 
the larkspurs and nettle-leaved mulleins, thus causing them to pro- 
duce a second crop of bloom. They are all useful to insure a bridging 
of the gaps between the flowering period of other sorts or to plant in 
those places where only one, or at most a few sorts, can be used. The 



PERENNIALS FOR DIFFERENT PURPOSES 



22g 



tickseed, the Shasta daisy, the blanket flower, and the scabiosa all carry 
their bloom at intervals from June until frost, while the violet, the for- 
get-me-not, and the toad-flax start in May and last until well into 
August. 



Achillea ptarmica flore plena 

Double Tansy 
Anthemis tinctoria kelzuayi 

Hardy Marguerite 
Campanula carpatica 

Carpathian Harebell 
Chrysanthemum maximum King 
Edward 

Large Shasta Daisy 
Coreopsis lanceolata 

Tickseed 
Delphinium (in variety) 

Larkspur 
Dianthus deltoides 

Maiden Pink 
Gaillardia aristata 

Blanket Flower 
Geum coccineum 

Avens 
Heuchera brizoides 

Red Coral-bells 
Knifophia uvaria 

Red-hot Poker Plant 



Lathyrus latijolius 

Hardy Sweet Pea 
Linaria dalmatica 

Dalmatian Toad-flax 

Lychnis coronaria 
Mullein Pink 

Myosotis palustris semperflorens 

Forget-me-not 
Oenothera fruticosa youngi 

Young's Evening Primrose 
Papaver nudicaule 

Iceland Poppy 
Phlox glabsrrima sufruticosa 

Early Garden Phlox 
Scabiosa graminifolia 

Grass-leaved Scabiosa 
Scabiosa sylvatica 

Woodland Scabiosa 
Tradescantia virginica 

Common Spiderwort 
Verbascum (in variety) 

Nettle-leaved Mullein 



Viola cornuta 
Tufted Pansy 

E. Perennials Seldom Used in Small, Refined, Formal 
Gardens. This group contains a few types which should be con- 
sistently avoided in the development of a small, formal flower garden, 
where refinement of detail is the main requirement. These plants, 
when not given careful attention, such as staking and constant cutting 
back, will produce a loose, ragged effect and will crowd out many of 
the small types of perennials which are admirably adapted for use in 
small formal flower gardens. 



Achillea ptarmica flore plena 

Double Tansy 
Aconitum zvilsoni 

Wilson's Monkshood 
Althaea rosea 

Hollyhock 
Arundo donax 

Giant Reed 



Aster (in variety) 

Hardy Aster 
Astilbe grandis 

Large-flowered Astilbe 
Bocconia cordaia 

Plume Poppy 
Boltonia asteroides 

Aster-like Boltonia 



230 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



Eupatorium (in variety) 

White Snakeroot 
Filipendula cnmtschatica 

Siberian Goat's Beard 
HeUnium autumnale superbum 

Tall Sneezeweed 
Helianthus (in variety) 

Hardy Sun-flower 
Hibiscus moscheutos 

Swamp Mallow 
Liatris pycnostachya 

Blazing Star 
Lythrum salicaria roseum 

Pink Loose-strife 



Miscanthus (in variety) 

Plume Grass 
Physostegia virginiana 

False Dragon Head 
Polygonum sachalinense 

Knotweed 
Rudbeckia laciniata 

Golden Glow 
Rudbeckia maxima 

Cone-flower 
Solidago (in variety) 

Goldenrod 
Stenanthium robustum 

Mountain Feather Fleece 



F. Perennials to Supply "Perpetual Bloom." This group of 
perennials will prove helpful in providing continuous bloom through- 
out the season. Most of these plants are the well-known, thoroughly 
tested kinds which will grow in any average garden soil and will 
combine well in their colour effects and habits of growth. By a lover of 
flowers, who has acquired expert knowledge of flowers, many similar 
groupings can be formed. 



Anemone japonica 

Japanese Windflower 
Aquilegia hybrida 

Columbine 
Aster (in variety) 

Hardy Aster 
Boltonia asteroides 

Aster-like Boltonia 
Chrysanthemum (in variety) 

Hardy Chrysanthemum 
Chrysanthemum shasta daisy 

Shasta Daisy 
Delphinium belladonna 

Everblooming Larkspur 
Dicentra spectabilis 

Bleeding Heart 

Fiola cornuta hybrida 
Horned Violet 



Gaillardia aristata 

Blanket Flower 
Helleborus niger 

Christmas Rose 
Hemerocallis (in variety) 

Day Lily 
Iris germanica 

German Iris 
Iris kaempferi 

Japanese Iris 
Paeonia albiflora sinensis 

Chinese Peony 
Phlox paniculata 

Garden Phlox 
Rudbeckia maxima 

Cone-flower 



G. Perennials for Use Among Peonies. When peonies have 
completed their period of flowering there remains during the balance 
of the season a mass of green foliage which can often be made much 
more interesting by the addition of a few types of perennials which 
do not require any considerable space for their development, and which 




Plate XXXIV. It is a source of much satisfaction to the plant designer to 
know that shrubs which are carefully selected for the colour of their flowers may 
produce very effective colour combinations. This plate shows the St. John's 
Wort (A), in combination with the sweet-scented buddleia (B). 




Plate XXXV. The average person who has not become interested in the 
colour effects produced by the fruits of our common trees and shrubs can hardly 
appreciate the intense colour display of the American bittersweet (A), the Wash- 
ington thorn (B) and the white fringe (C). For flowers: (D) bittersweet, (E) 
thorn and (Y) fringe. (See page 162, group XX-B) 




Plate XXXV'I. The garden designer must always bear in mind that many 
of our shrubs which produce very uninteresting flowers are the ones which pro- 
duce our most attractive fruiting effects. The variation in colours of the fruits 
ranges from the pure white of the snowberry (A), through the purple and porce- 
lain blue of the beauty fruit (C), to the vivid reds of which the Japanese bush 
cranberry (B) is typical. For flowers: (D) beauty fruit, (E) snowberry, (F) 
Japanese bush cranberry. (See page 162, group XX-B) 



PERENNIALS FOR DIFFERENT PURPOSES 231 

will lend touches of colour to this mass of green during the summer 
months. 

Aconitum fischeri Kniphofia pfitzeri 

Monkshood Red-hot Poker Plant 

Aconitum napellus Liatris (in variety) 

Monkshood Blazing Star 

Gladiolus (in variety) Lilium (See List No. XXXIII-F) 

Sword Flower Lily 

Hyacinthus candicans Physostegia virginiana 

Summer Hyacinth False Dragon Head 

H. Perennials for Good Blooming Combinations. The fol- 
lowing group contains interesting combinations of perennials which, 
if planted together, will produce in each case a pleasing colour effect. 
The perennial garden is valuable for two effects: either for a succession 
of bloom, or for interesting colour combinations of those flowers 
which bloom at the same time. The following is an endeavour to 
provide such combinations:* 

1. Rosa foetida harisoni and Aquilegia caerulea, blue. 

2. Heuckerasanguinea,coTal;Aquilegia caerulfa,b\ae; Iris germanica Kharput, purple. 

3. Paeonia festiva maxima, white; Dianlhus latif alius atrococcineus, crimson; Paeonia, 

pink (in variety); Clematis recta, white (as background) and Dianthus bar- 
batus, variety "Newport", pink. 

4. Iris pallida dalmatica, lavender; and Thermopsis caroliniana, yellow. 
;. Cerastium tomentosum, white; Linum perenne, blue. 

Phlox Miss Lingard, white; and Campanula persicifolia caerulea, blue. 

Phlox Miss Lingard, white; Aquilegia chrysantha, yellow; and Heuchera sanguinea, 

coral. 
Hemerocallis flava, or Anthemis tinctoria kelmayi, yellow; with Delphinium Jor- 

mosum or Baptisia australis, blue; or Iris Celeste, blue. 
Hemerocallis fulva, orange with Clematis recta, white. 
Coreopsis lanceolata, or Thermopsis caroliniana, yellow; with Delphinium in deep 

blue shades. 
Chrysanthemum shasta daisy, white; Anthemis tinctoria kelzuayi, yellow; and 

Delphinium belladonna, blue. 
Delphinium belladonna or hybrids, blue; and Lilium candidum, white. 

13. Anchusa italica, blue; and Anthemis tinctoria kelwayi, yellow. 

14. Chrysanthemum shasta daisy, white; and Iris kaempferi in purple shades, or 

Dianthus Napoleon HI, crimson. 

15. Monarda didyma Cambridge, scarlet; and Phlox paniculata, white. 

16. Phlox paniculata, pink; Lilium speciosum, white; and Veronica longijolia subsessi- 

lis, violet. 

17. Thalictrum dipterocarpum, blue; Veronica longijolia subsessilis, violet; and Ane- 
mone japonica, white. 



*For common names refer to index and page references. 



232 



19. 

20. 



22. 
23. 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

Veronica spicata, blue; and Oenothera missouriensis, yellow. 

Eupatorium ageratoides, white; and Helenium Riverton Beauty, yellow and black. 
Eupatorium ageratoides, white; and Chrysanthemum, Glory of Seven Oaks, yellow. 
Buddleia (in variety), lilac, lavender, violet, purple; and Anemone japonica, white 

or pink. 
Anemone japonica, white and pink; and Aconilum autumnale, blue. 
Aster Climax, blue; and Helenium Riverton Beauty, yellow and black. 



I. Perennials Valuable for Cut Flowers. The perennial cut- 
flower garden should provide an abundance of cut flowers. Most of the 
perennials in this group will provide flowers which can be cut for house 
use and which have lasting qualities. There are many perennials 
which do not produce masses of flowers of sufficient substance to be 
effective when cut for house use. 



Achillea boule de neige 

Ball of Snow 
Anemone japonica 

Japanese Windflower 
Aqiiilegia (long-spurred hybrids) 

Columbine 
Aster novae-angliae Climax 

Blue Hardy Aster 
Astilhe japonica 

Japanese Astilbe 
Boltonia asteroides 

Aster-like Boltonia 
Centaurea montana 

Mountain Bluet 
Chrysanthemum (in variety) 

Chrysanthemum 
Chrysanthemum shasta daisy 

Shasta Daisy 
Convallaria majalis 

Lily-of-the-valley 
Coreopsis lanceolata 

Lance-leaved Tickseed 
Delphinium (in variety) 

Larkspur 
Dianthus barhatus 

Sweet William 
Digitalis (in variety) 

Foxglove 
Eupatorium coelestinum 

Mist Flower 



Gaillardia aristata 

Blanket Flower 
Gypsophila paniculata 

Baby's Breath 
Helianthus (in variety) 

Hardy Sun-flower 
Heuchera sanguinea 

Coral-bells 
Iris germanica 

German Iris 
Iris kaempferi 

Japanese Iris 
Kniphofia uvaria 

Red-hot Poker Plant 
Paeonia (in variety) 

Peony 
Physostegia virginiana 

False Dragonhead 
Phlox paniculata 

Garden Phlox 
Primula (in variety) 

Primrose 
Pyrethrum roseum 

Painted Daisy 
Rudbeckia (in variety) 

Cone-flower 
Scabiosa caucasica 

Mourning Bride 
Stokesia cyanea 

Stokes' Aster 



Veronica (in variety) 
Speedwell 



PERENNIALS FOR DIFFERENT PURPOSES 233 

J. Perennials Which Should Be Treated AS Biennials. There 
are certain plants generally known as perennials which will "run out" 
in the average garden after a period of two to three years. They 
may still continue to grow, but after the first two years they are 
much less vigorous. The plants m this group should be planted 
with the idea that at the end of two years the old plants will be re- 
moved and new ones put into their places. 

Antirrhinum majus Hedysarum coronarium 

Snapdragon French Honeysuckle 

Bellis perennis Lunaria annua 

English Daisy Honesty 

Campanula medium Lychnis alha 

Canterbury Bells White Pink 

Campanula pyramidalis Lychnis coronaria 

Chimney Bell-flower Mullein Pink 

Dianthus barbatus Lychnis dioica 

Sweet William Red Campion 

Digitalis purpurea Viola cornuta 

Foxglove Tufted Pansy 

Glaucium luteum Viola tricolor 

Yellow Horned Poppy Pansy 

K. Perennials to be Transplanted Frequently. There are 
certain perennials which require special attention for their best devel- 
opment. The perennials in this group should be taken up, divided, 
and replanted every two or three years, as they grow more vigor- 
ously and multiply faster than the other groups of perennials. 

a. To be divided every two years: 

Anemone japonica Lychnis coronaria 

Japanese Windflower Mullein Pink 

"^^Cofumbine Monarda didyma 

Chrysanthemum (hardy, large- r. • /• • \ 

flowered varieties) P"'"""'" ('" Y^'^ty) , . , , 

Hardy Chrysanthemum P«°"y (°"'y ^° multiply) 

Helanihemum croceum Phlox paniculata 

Rock Rose Garden Phlox 

Helianthus Rudbeckia 

Hardy Sun-flower Cone-flower 

b. To be divided every three years : 

Armeria (in variety) Phlox paniculata 

Sea Thrift Garden Phlox 

Iris (all varieties) Thymus serpyllum lanuginosus 

Iris Downy Thyme 
Viola (in variety) 
Violet 



234 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

To be divided each year: 



Anthfmis iinctoria kelwayi 

Hardy Marguerite 
j4ster novae-angliae (in variety) 

Hardy Garden Aster 
Aster novi-belgi (in variety) 

Hardy Garden Aster 
Bellis pereyinis 

English Daisy 



Bocconia cordata 
Plume Poppy 

Chrysanthemum indicum 
Pompom Chrysanthemum 

Chrysanthemum maximum 
Shasta Daisy 

Helenium (in variety) 
Sneezeweed 



L. Perennials for Water Planting. In the development of 
informal and formal pools the following group provides a ready 
reference for interesting types of perennials adapted for use in water 
gardens. For growing in wet soil along stream sides the closed gentian 
is one of the best plants. The cardinal flower naturally grows along 
stream sides or edges of ponds and wdl thrive, if in a damp soil, either 
in open sunlight or shade, but prefers shade. 



a. Deep water: 

Nelumho (in variety) 

Lotus 
Nymphaea alba 

White Water-lily 



Nymphaea marliacea 
Hybrid Water-lily 

Nymphaea odurata 
Native Pond-lily 



Nymphaea ndorata sulphurea 
Yellow Water-lily 



b. Shallow water: 



AcoTus japonicus variegaius 

Variegated Sv^eet Sedge 
Alisma plantago 

Great Water-plantain 
Butomus umbellatus 

Flowering Rush 
Calla paluslris 

Water Arum 
Caltha palustris 

Marsh Marigold 
Carex 

Sedge 



Cyperus slrigosus 

Cyperus 
Iris pseudacorus 

Yellow Water Flag 
Phragmites communis 

Common Reed 
Sagittaria rnontevidensis 

Giant Arrowhead 
Scirpus lacusiris 

Bulrush 
Scirpus tabernaemontanus zebrinus 

Great Bulrush 



Thalia dealbaia 
Thalia 



c. Land at water-side: 

Aruncus Sylvester 
Goat's Beard 

Asclepias incarnata 
Swamp Milkweed 



Aster (in variety) 
Hardy Aster 

Astilbe davidi 
David's Spirea 



PERENNIALS FOR DIFFERENT PURPOSES 



235 



Cahha palusiris flore plena 

Marsh Marigold 
Eupatorium ageratoides 

White Snakeroot 
Eupatorium coelestinum 

Mist Flower 
Filipendula purpurea 

Steeple Bush 
Gentiana andrezvsi 

Closed Gentian 
Helenium autumnale superbum 

Tall Sneezeweed 
Helonias bullata 

Swamp-pink 
Hemerocallis flava 

Lemon Lily 
Heracleum mantegazzianum 

Giant Cow-parsnip 
Hibiscus moscheiitos 

Swamp Mallow 
Iris kaempferi 

Japanese Iris 
Iris orientalis 

Oriental Iris 

Thalictrum 
Meadow- 



Leucanlhemum lacustre 

Leucanthemum 
Leucojum aestivum 

Summer Snowflake 
Lobelia cardinalis 

Cardinal Flower 
Lysimachia vulgaris 

Common Yellow Loose-strife 
Lythrum salicaria roseum 

Pink Loose-strife 
Miscanthus (in variety) 

Plume Grass 
A'lyosotis palustris 

Forget-me-not 
Phalaris arundinacea 

Ribbon-grass 
Primula japonica (m variety) 

Japanese Primrose 
Rheum officinale 

Medicinal Rhubarb 
Sarracenia drummondi 

Pitcher Plant 
Senecio clivorum 

Groundsel 
dipterocarpum 
•rue 



M. Perennials for Planting on Edge of and in Front of 
Shrub Borders. 



a. Low Growing: 

Cerastium tomentosum 

Snow-in-summer 
Ceratostigma plumbaginoides 

Leadwort 
Funkia (in variety) 

Plantain Lily 

b. Tall Growing: 

Acanthus 

Bear's Breech 
Aster 

Starwort 
Baptisia 

False Indigo 
Bocconia 

Plume Poppy 



Iberis sempervirens 
Evergreen Candytuft 

Saxifraga (in variety) 
Saxifrage 

Sedum (in variety) 
Stonecrop 



Dorontcum 

Leopard's Bane 
Ferns 

Native Ferns 
Helianthus 

Hardy Sun-flower 
Hemerocallis 

Day Lily 
Hibiscus moscheutos hybrida 
Mallow Marvels 



236 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

N. Perennials for Attracting Humming Birds. Humming 
birds have long bills and hollow tongues which permit them to search 
for insects and honey in their favourite flowers. By planting some of the 
following sorts of perennials, as well as the trumpet vine, these beautiful 
birds will be encouraged to visit the garden. 



Aconitum (in variety) 

Monkshood 
Althaea rosea 

Hollyhock 
Aquilegia (in variety) 

Columbine 
Delphinium (in variety) 

Larkspur 



Dianihus harbatus 

Sweet William 
Digitalis gloxinaeflora 

Foxglove 
Impatiens biflora 

Jewel-weed 
Lychnis (in variety) 

Mullein Pink 



Melissa officinalis 
Lemon Balm 



CHAPTER XXXII 

ANNUALS 

No GARDEN is Complete without its quota of annuals. The so- 
called perennial garden, to be really successful, must be supplemented 
each year with a quantity of annuals, especially if the garden is to be 
studied in close detail. If only the larger mass effects of flowers and 
foliage are required, a perennial planting properly selected is sufficient 
in itself. 

The opinion prevails among those who have devoted but little study 
to this subject that a complete flower garden can be developed during 
the first one or two years after planting through the use of properly 
selected types of perennials only. Such a garden may be developed 
after the first one or two years, under the care of an expert gardener. 
It is almost impossible to develop such a garden in the early stages, 
because perennials, on account of the nature of the plants, continue 
each year to increase their mass and so require more space for their 
normal development. Therefore, when perennials are first planted, 
sufficient space should be allowed between plants to permit of a normal 
development for at least three or four years, at the end of which period 
the clumps of plants, except the peony, should be "divided." (See 
"Maintenance of Perennials.") If the first planting is not over- 
crowded there will be during the first year, and often during the second 
year, bare spots in the garden which should be filled with annuals. 
Perennials during the first year after transplanting rarely become es- 
tablished sufficiently to produce normal flower eff^ects, and this is one 
reason for the use of annuals to develop a successful garden. 

Annuals are plants which are grown from seed each year and whose 
roots die each winter. The roots of perennials continue to live in a 
dormant condition and develop new growth again at the top with the 
coming of the next spring. 

The first principle in the successful development of any flower gar- 
den is to determine the use for which the flower garden is developed. A 
garden designed, either of annuals or of perennials, to show a succession 

237 



238 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

of interesting bloom and to make an interesting garden picture, either 
as masses of colour or spots of colour, is a different garden from the 
so-called cut-flower garden, from which the flowers, as soon as they 
mature, are apt to be cut and used for table decoration. The best 
success in garden development is obtained when a clear-cut line is 
drawn between the so-called cut-flower garden and the flower garden 
as a piece of landscape design. There is nothing more discouraging 
to the expert designer than to see masses of flowers at the height of their 
bloom, and at a time when they should be most eff"ective in the garden 
design, deliberately cut for table use and a resulting criticism ex- 
tended that the garden is not a success because it has no flowers. 
This discussion applies equally well to a garden filled with perennials 
and to a garden filled with annuals. A garden should be, if space 
permits, either for one purpose or for the other, and if a space is desired 
where cut flowers may be obtained, then a separate garden should be 
provided from which flowers may be cut as soon as they have matured. 

There are many interesting questions concerning the use of annuals. 
Perhaps the most interesting group of annuals is that containing the 
plants which are valuable for cut flowers, such as the larkspur, mari- 
gold, snapdragon, Mexican poppy, and nasturtium. These plants 
to be most successful for cut flowers should be in rows for purposes of 
cultivation, and given ample space to develop fully. Most of them, 
as with the other annuals which have early flowers, are sown in the 
seed beds in mid-February and early March or in the hot frames during 
the last of March and early April and later transplanted. Most of the 
annuals can be sown in the open ground during the last of April and 
early May, but the flowering season is apt to be much shorter because 
the flowers mature at a later date. 

There is a group of annuals which are extremely desirable as ground 
cover and edgings. They are plants which, when sown thin in the 
open ground, need not necessarily be thinned out although an in- 
telligent thinning is better. These annuals form beautiful edgings 
to the flower borders and fill many otherwise bare spaces in the front 
of the lower annual plantings. 

There is a group of annuals which should preferably be sown in the 
open ground where they are to bloom, and which should be thinned 
out to the proper spacing between plants as the small plants develop. 
These annuals are difficult to transplant successfully, and include such 
types as baby's breath, lupin, nasturtium, cornflower, and poppy. 




I'l.ATH XXXN'II. Not only Incaiisi' of tlie interesting colour of its fruit 
in combination with the fruit of other shrubs, but because of the size and 
abundance of its fruit, the snowberry is one of our conspicuous and valuable 
shrubs. (See page 162, group XX-B) 



ANNUALS 239 

Annuals, unlike perennials, can be started in many instances at 
different periods during the season, in order to insure a succession of 
bloom. There is a normal period required between the time of seed- 
ing and the time of blooming, and if this period is definitely known, 
then at intervals of not less than ten days or two weeks three or four 
successive sowings may be made in the early and late spring so that a 
continuous succession of bloom from these plants may be obtained 
during the summer months. Typical of these plants are the phlox, 
forget-me-not, and baby's breath. 

Most of our annuals can be sown, if necessary, in the open ground. 
There are a few types, however, which must be started in seed beds, 
either in a greenhouse or in hot frames, in order to produce good bloom 
before the frost injures the tops. These types include the China asters, 
cosmos, ten-weeks' stock, petunia, and butterfly flower, all of which re- 
quire a longer season for the period of maturing after seeding. Many 
times when the seeds of these plants are sown late, the plants reach 
their mature development and are on the point of producing flowers 
when they are suddenly injured by an early frost. 

It often becomes necessary or desirable to supplement plantings of 
perennial or woody vines, which are naturally slow growing, with 
annual quick-growing vines to cover fences and lattice work. It is 
seldom that perennial vines can be planted and produce an adequate 
covering for a lattice work or fence during the first year. The time 
required for the full development of such woody vines as the clematis, 
bitter-sweet, and rose is from two to three years. In such instances the 
cup and saucer vine, hop vine, cardinal vine, and the morning glory 
can be planted to fill the bare areas during the first year or two. Many 
of these annual vines have a heavy foliage, valuable for screen effects, 
and the writer has therefore divided this group into two sub-groups, in- 
dicating those with delicate foliage and those with heavy foliage. 

LIST OF ANNUALS 

A. Annuals Especially Valuable for Cut Flowers. The 
group of annuals which are valuable for cut flowers is much greater than 
might be anticipated. This group is comprehensive and those plants 
which are marked with a star (*) are the most interesting types, and pro- 
vide the greatest abundance of cut flowers. The other annuals in the 
group are valuable for cut flowers, but should not be selected unless 
ample space exists so that the more important types also can be grown. 



240 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



Ageratum houstonianum 

Floss Flower 
Alyssum maritimum 

Sweet Alyssum 
*Antirrhinum majus 

Snapdragon (treated as an annual) 
Arciotis grandis 

African Daisy 
Brachycome iberidifolia 

Swan River Daisy 
*Calendula officinalis 

Pot Marigold 
Callistephus hortensis 

China Aster 
*Centaurfa ainericana 

American Cornflower 
Ceniaurea cyanus 

Old-fashioned Cornflower 
Centaurea imperialis 

Sweet Sultan 
*Chrysanthenium cornnarium 

Summer Chrysanthemum 
*Coreopsis tinctoria 

Tickseed 
*Cosmos bipinnalus 

Cosmos 
*Delphinium ajacis 

Annual Larkspur 
Dianthus chinensis 

Chinese Pink 
Dianthus heddewigi 

Japanese Pink 
Emilia flammea 

Flora's Paint-brush 
Esckscholtzia californica 

California Poppy 
Eucharidium grandiflorum 

Large-flowered Eucharidium 
*Gaillardia pulchella picta 

Blanket Flower 
Gomphrena globosa 

Globe Amaranth 

fThe variety Shirley is particularly to be commended. 



Grasses in variety 

Grass 
*Gypsophila elegans 

Baby's Breath 
*Helianthus annuus 

Single Annual Sunflower 
Helichrysum bracteatum 

Straw Flower 
Heliotropium peruvianum 

Heliotrope 
Hunnemannia fumariaefolia 

Mexican Poppy 
Iberis umbellata 

Candytuft 
Impatiens balsamina 

Garden Balsam 
*LathyTus odoratus 

Sweet Pea 
Matthiola incana 

Common Stock 
Nigella damascena 

Love-in-a-mist 
^Papaver (in variety) 

Annual Poppy 
Reseda odorata 

Mignonette 
*Salpiglossis sinuata 

Painted Tongue 
*Scabiosa airopurpurea 

Mourning Bride 
Schizanthus pinnatus 

Butterfly Flower 
Tagetes erecta 

Marigold, African varieties 
*Tropaeolum majus 

Nasturtium 
Verbena hybrida 

Verbena 
Viola tricolor 

Pansy j 
*Zinnia elegans 

Zinnia 



B. Annuals to Be Sown for Ground Cover. Often along the 
edges of borders in the garden, or in otherwise bare spots, a small 
ground cover of annuals to produce a carpet of flowers may be de- 
sired. This often happens at the edge of shrubbery which grows 



ANNUALS 



241 



on a bank where it is difficult to train the branches so that they will 
come to the edge of the sod, thus covering the bare soil. 



^geratum houstonianum (dwarf varieties) 

Floss Flower 
Alyssum mariiimum Little Gem 

Sweet Alyssum 
AnagaUis (in variety) 

Pimpernel 



Iberis umbellata (dwarf hybrids) 

Candytuft 
Myosotis alpestris 

Forget-me-not 
Portxdaca grandiflora 

Rose Moss 



Reseda odoraia, dwarf 
Mignonette 

C. Annuals Which Are Difficult to Transplant Successfully. 
This group contains annuals which should be sown in the place where 
they are expected to remain. The only work which should be done to 
them after sowing is to thin them out in order to give the individual 
plants more space to develop. 



Centatirea cyanus 

Old-fashioned Cornflower 
Delphinium ajacis 

Annual Larkspur 
Emilia fiammea 

Flora's Paint-brush 
Eschscholizia californica 

California Poppy 
Gypsophila elegans 

Baby's Breath 
Gypsophila muralis 

Pink Baby's Breath 



Lathyrus odoratus 

Sweet Pea 
Lavatera trimestris splendens 

Mallow 
Lupinus hirsuius 

Lupin 
Nigel la damascena 

Love-in-a-mist 
Papaver (in variety) 

Poppy 
Tropaeolum majus 

Nasturtium 



D. Annuals Which Should Be Planted in Several Sowings to 
Insure a Succession of Bloom. To provide a succession of bloom 
with annuals those included in the following group should be sown in 
two or three successive plantings. Very few annual seeds should be 
sown after the hot summer weather begins, unless great care is given 
to the watering. 



Centaurea Cyanus 

Old-fashioned Cornflower 
Coreopsis tinctoria 

Tickseed 
Gypsophila elegans 

Baby's Breath (sow every three weeks) 
Iberis umbellata 

Candytuft (sow every three weeks) 

Reseda odoraia 



Myosotis palustris 

Forget-me-not 
Nigella damascena 

Love-in-a-mist (sow every six weeks) 
Papaver (in variety) 

Poppy (sow every four weeks) 
Phlox drummondi 

Drummond's Phlox 



Mignonette (sow every three weeks) 



242 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



E. Annuals to Be Started Indoors in Order to Produce 
Bloom Before Frost. For the best results and for early summer 
flowers, the annuals in this group should be started in hot frames or 
greenhouses and transplanted in the very early spring, as soon as the 
danger of frost is over, into their permanent garden locations. 



Ageratum houstonianum 

Floss Flower 
Antirrhinum majus 

Snapdragon 
Brachycome iberidifolia 

Swan River Daisy 
Callistephus hortensis 

China Aster 
Cheiranthus cheiri 

Wallflower 
Cosmos bipinnatus 

Cosmos 
Heliotropium peruvianum 

Heliotrope 
Lobelia erinus (in variety) 

Lobelia 



Matthiola incana 

Common Stock 
Nicotiana (in variety) 

Tobacco Plant 
Petunia hybrida 

Petunia 
Salpiglossis sinuaia 

Painted Tongue 
Salvia splendens 

Scarlet Sage 
Schizanthus pinnatus 

Butterfly Flower 
Verbena hybrida 

Verbena 
Viola tricolor 

Pansy 



F. Annual Vines. While the more permanent perennial types of 
woody vines are developing during the first two or three years after 
transplanting it is often desirable to fill the bare spaces on fences and 
walls with the annual vines that will produce a mass foliage effect. 
Any of the vines shown in this group are valuable for that purpose. 



a. Delicate foliage: 

Adlumia cirrkosa (biennial) 

Alleghany Vine 
Cardiospermum halicacabum 

Balloon Vine 



Cobaea scandens (sow indoors) 

Cup and Saucer Vine 
Tropaeolum canariense (sow indoors) 

Canary Bird Vine 



b. Heavy foliage: 

Calonyction aculealum 

Moon Vine 
Dolichos lablab 

Hyacinth Bean 
Echinocystis lobata 

Wild Cucumber 
Humulus lupulus 

Hop Vine 
Humulus lupulus japonica 

Cut-leaved Hop Vine 



Ipomoea hederacea (Japanese varieties) 

Japanese Morning Glory 
Ipomoea purpurea 

Common Morning Glory 
Phaseolus multiflorus 

Scarlet Runner Bean 
Quamoclit pinnata 

Cypress Vine 
Quamoclit coccinea hederifolia 

Cardinal Climber 



ANNUALS 



243 



G. Plants for Carpet Bedding. Carpet bedding as a part of 
design in landscape planting has a specific place and is used for a spe- 
cific purpose. This type of planting lends itself to extremely formal 
areas throughout parks and around architectural treatments. It is 
not adapted in any way for use in connection with informal types of 
American landscapes either in park developments or in settings of 
homes. This is a field of work which gives the gardener an excellent 
opportunity to show his skill in the trimming of plants and the ar- 
rangement of plants to produce interesting pattern effects. There is no 
other group of plants from which specimens can be selected which will 
perform the same functions in the landscape picture as plants selected 
from this group. The perennials are mostly propagated from cuttings, 
and the annual plants are grown each year from seeds. They are 
usually planted very closely — from three to six inches apart — so as to 
secure an even colour effect and a complete blanket of foliage with well- 
defined lines of separation between the varieties. Few of these plants 
are sold under their proper scientific names, but the common names 
here given will identify them. 

The types of plants adapted for this purpose are usually selected 
because of well-defined characteristics such as: 

(a) Long flowering period and abundance of bloom. 

(b) Compact habit of growth. 

(c) Ability to thrive under crowded conditions. 

(d) Ability to respond to frequent and severe cutting back. 

(e) Interesting colour and texture of foliage. 



a. Low-growing plants frotn two to six inches tall: 



I. Foliage plants: 

Alyssiim maritimum vartegatum 

Variegated-leaved Sweet Alyssum 
Echeveria atropurpurea 

Purple-leaved Echeveria 
Echeveria Jul gens 

Smooth-stemmed Echeveria 
Echeveria glauca 

Glaucous Echeveria 
Echeveria secunda 

Red-margined Echeveria 
Oxalis corniculata 

Creeping Oxalis 
Pelargonium hortorum Madame Salleroi 

Mme. Salleroi Geranium 



Sempervivum arachnoideum (in variety) 

Spiderweb Houseleek 
Sempervivum calcareum 

Alpine Houseleek 
Sempervivum iectorum (In variety) 

Houseleek 
Telanthera amoena 

Alternanthera 
Telanthera bettzickiana 

Narrow-leaved Alternanthera 
Telanthera versicolor 

Round-leaved Alternanthera 
Thymus serpyllum (in variety) 

Mother of Thyme 



244 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



2. Flowering plants: 
Ageratum "Imperial Dwarf Blue" 

Dwarf Blue Floss Flower 
Ageratum "Imperial Dwarf White" 

Dwarf White Floss Flower 
Alyssum maritimum Lilac Queen 

Lilac Sweet Alyssum 
Alyssum maritimum Little Gem 

White Sweet Alyssum 
Brachycome iheridijolia 

Swan River Daisy 
Cuphea ignea 

Cigar Plant 
Iberis amara coronaria 

Rocket Candytuft 



Iberis umbellata (in variety) 

Candytuft 
Lobelia erinus alba 

White Compact Lobelia 
Lobelia erinus compacta Crystal Palace 

Blue Compact Lobelia 
Lobelia erinus flare plena 

Double Lobelia 
Lobelia erinus tricolor 

Spotted Lobelia 
Phlox drummondi 

Drummond's Phlox 
Portulaca grandiflora (in variety) 

Rose Moss 



Torenia flava 
Yellow Torenia 

h. Taller-growing plants from twelve to twenty inches tall: 

I. Foliage plants: 
Acalypha wilkesiana (in variety) 

Copper-leaf 
Centaurea cineraria 

Dusty Miller 
Centaurea gymnocarpa 

Plumose-leaved Dusty Miller 
Chrysanthemum parthenium aureum 

Golden Feather 
Chrysanthemum parthenium glaucum 

Dusty Feverfew 
Coleus blumei verschafelti 

Branched Coleus 



Iresine herbsti 

Round-leaved Achyranthes 
Iresine lindeni 

Narrow-leaved Achyranthes 
Pelargonium hortorum (m variety) 

Bronze-leaved Geranium 
Phalaris arundinacea 

Ribbon Grass 
Piqueria trinerva 

Stevia 



Santolina chamaecyparissus 
Lavender Cotton 
Senecio cineraria 
Dusty Miller 



2. Flowering plants: 
Ageratum houstonianum 

Floss Flower 
Begonia rex (in variety) 

Rex Begonia 
Begonia semperflorens Triomphe de 
Lorraine 

Cherry Red Bedding Begonia 
Begonia semperflorens Vernon 

Bedding Begonia 
Chrysanthemum coronarium flore pleno 

Double Summer Chrysanthemum 
Cuphea llavea 

Cigajr Plant 



Heliotropium Queen of Violets 
Blue Garden Heliotrope 

Lantana camara (in variety) 
Lantana 

Pelargonium (in variety) 
Geranium 

Petunia hybrida 
Petunia 

Salvia splendens (in variety) 

Scarlet Sage 
Tropaeoleum minus 

Dwarf Nasturtium 



Verbena hybrida 
Garden Verbena 



ANNUALS 245 

H. Annuals for Design Bedding. Oftentimes in the develop- 
ment of the flower garden the owner wishes for a massing of annual 
flowering plants to produce certain definite outlines. The amateur 
in selecting types for svich effects will not be successful if he uses 
plants with habits of growth not adapted to the refinement of detail 
in the design being proili ced. Some annuals, like the dwarf snap- 
dragon, French marigold, annual phlox, and dwarf zinnia, will 
develop within small spaces to produce complicated designs. Others 
like late asters, tall snapdragons, tall zinnias, and African marigolds 
lend themselves successfully only to simple bedding effects with larger 
and less complicated units. 

The incorrect selection of annuals results in the following errors: 
(i) Loss of all trace of the original design because growth of plants 
used is out of scale with intent of the design (loose-growing, tall 
plants cannot maintain neat lines of a compact design); (2) Irregular 
and spotted flowering effect, because definite masses of plants do not 
bloom at the same time (e. g., early-flowering asters and late-flowering 
calendulas do not bloom at the same time). 

The best rule to adopt is to become thoroughly familiar with the 
flowering period and with the normal height to which the different 
types of annuals will grow. No other way is so good as to buy packets 
of seed and grow some of the different sorts for a season. The woody 
and herbaceous perennial plants are as a rule sold as named varieties 
which are thoroughly understood the world over; but no such uni- 
formity exists in regard to the seedsman's names for annual plants. 
It is not uncommon for seedsmen to sell identical seeds under different 
trade names or to give the same name to entirely different strains of 
seed. Therefore seeds of annuals should be bought of a reliable 
seedsman, preferably one who grows the seed, and one should not 
utilize novelties or unknown strains of seed in bedding work. By 
sticking to the best seedsmen and their established strains of seed 
excellent results will follow. 

a. Low-growing sorts, growing twelve to twenty-four inches: 

Antirrhinum majus nanuvi (in variety) Callistephus chinensis Queen of the 

Half-dwarf Snapdragon Market 

Calendula officinalis (in variety) £arly Half-dwarf China Aster 

Pot Mangold 

Callistephus chiliensis King type Centaurea cyanus 

Quilled China Aster Old-fashioned Cornflower 



246 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



Clarkta pidchella 

Clustered-flowered Clarkia 
Dianthus harbatus 

Sweet William 
Dimorphotheca aurantiaca 

Orange Daisy 
Eschscholtzia californica 

California Poppy 
Gaillardia pulchella picta 

Blanket Flower 
Hunnemannia fumariaefolia 

Mexican Poppy 
Matthiola incana 

Common Stock 



Matthiola incana annua 

Ten-week Stock 
Petunia hybrida (in variety) 

Petunia 
Phlox drummondi (in variety) 

Drummond's Phlox 
Salpiglossis sinuata (in variety) 

Painted Tongue 
Tagetes erecta 

African Marigold 
Tagetes patula 

French Marigold 
Verbena hybrida 

Verbena 
Zinnia elegans 
Zinnia 



b. Taller sorts, growing twenty-four to thirty-six inches: 



Antirrhinum majus (in variety) 

Snapdragon 
Callistephxts chinensis Cregos Giant 

Chrysanthemum-flowered China Aster 
Callistephus chinensis Late-branching 

Late-flowering China Aster 
Celosia argentea 

Plumed Celosia 
Clarkia elegans 

Broad-leaved Clarkia 



Delphinium ajacis Double Stock-flowering 

Annual Larkspur 
Heliotropium regale 

Garden Heliotrope 
Matthiola Mammoth Beauty of Nice 

Brompton Stocks 
Tagetes erecta Lemon Queen 

Tall Double African Marigold 
Tagetes erecta Orange Prince 

Tall Double African Marigold 
Zinnia elegans robusta 
Tall Zinnia 




Plate XXXVIII. During the winter months when there is little else in 
the shrub border to attract attention, the vivid colours of the twigs of many of 
our shrubs present interesting spots of colour against the background of ever- 
greens or snow. (A) red-twigged dogwood; (B) green-stemmed dogwood; (C) 
red birch; (D) golden-twigged osier; (E) gray dogwood; (F) striped maple. 
(See page 169, group XXI) 




Plate XXXIX. W hat is more beautiful in tlie landscape than the intensely 
brilliant colours of the autumn foliage of many of our trees and shrubs? More 
plants should be used for the value of their autumn foliage effect. (A) burning 
bush; (B) dark green golden bell; (C) maple-leaved viburnum; (D) sassafras; 
iK) maidenhair tree: iF) sourwood. (See page 173, group XXII) 



CHAPTER XXXIII 
HORTICULTURAL VARIETIES 

The great variations among plants and flowers that to most people 
seem very much alike should become better known both for the enjoy- 
ment this study yields and for its educational and cultural value. The 
formation of a fine collection of one or two genera of plants like the 
peony, the iris, or the gladiolus, may become a hobby that will give 
for the study and time and money expended upon it much reward, 
additional to that obtained from enjoying the blooms of one's own 
choice plants. Not only are ideals of excellence improved and the 
aesthetic sense cultivated, but there is genuine and lasting pleasure 
found in becoming acquainted with congenial persons through a wide 
range of territory, united by community of plant interest in a pursuit 
that leads to refinement. The interchange of ideas expressed in their 
publications yields a satisfaction greatly enhanced when the members 
of the society interested in "promoting" x.\\e flozver meet in convention. 
It all becomes fascinating to a degree unintelligible to a person who has 
not yet given himself enthusiastically to specializing m a flower. 
For those who have the inclination or the financial means that justify 
them in seeking the satisfaction that comes from possessing rare 
varieties of a flower, there are available the publications of the societies 
such as have been named. 

Many treasures consisting of native plants still generally unknown, 
and of rare horticultural varieties, have long been denied to the 
purchasers of nursery stock in this country, either because they have 
not been properly presented to the pubhc by the nurserymen, or be- 
cause the prospective purchaser has been too timid to try new varieties 
of old plants. Thus much of our American ornamental planting has a 
sameness which tends to discourage people who have wearied of seeing 
the old familiar plants but would respond quickly to an opportunity to 
secure and use new and better varieties. 

Peonies, lilacs, and irises are now becoming very well known, many 
amateurs have collections which are equal to the best, and people 

247 



248 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

often travel long distances to see them in bloom. Garden roses, too, 
have their societies and have secured a place in the regard and the 
knowledge of the public which is not altogether justified by their 
position in the horticultural world. Aside from their flowers roses have 
nothing to recommend them for ornamental planting. Lilies, small 
flowering trees, rhododendrons, azaleas, and other broad-leaved ever- 
greens all possess better foliage and are more free from bugs, mildew, 
and other diseases. 

Magnificent effects may be secured by using the proper sorts of lilies, 
properly planted. Lilies seem, on the whole, to thrive better in soil 
which is full of the roots of other plants, and thus they are most happily 
used in conjunction with other herbaceous or small woody plants. 
They may be selected to provide bloom continuously from May till 
September and to suit any type of soil or condition of shade or 
open sun. 

During recent years numerous named sorts of thorn apples, 
crabapples, flowering cherries, and other small trees have been put 
on the market. These trees could, with splendid results, be sub- 
stituted for the round-leaved or umbrella catalpa and weeping mul- 
berry of the old-time nursery salesman. They are not only hardy, 
shapely, and beautiful in flower, but many of the single-flowering 
sorts produce handsome fruit and others have a good autumn 
colour. 

There are now at least fifty sorts of small evergreen shrubs and vines, 
aside from the rhododendrons, which are reasonably hardy throughout 
the northern states. It is coming to be generally recognized that, 
aside from the antipathy to calcareous soils which is shown by the 
rhododendrons and other ericaceae, the chief drawback to the use of 
many of our charming broad-leaved evergreens has not been so much 
the finding of a proper soil as the securing of a proper exposure and a 
condition of continuous moisture without stagnation. As the smoki- 
ness of our cities continues to increase the list of coniferous evergreens 
that will survive this condition grows smaller. Therefore for winter 
eff"ects in cities we should turn to broad-leaved evergreens, many of 
which are not only able to survive smoke and dust, provided they are 
occasionally washed down and are kept always moist at the roots, 
but which contain among them some of the finest flowering plants 
which can be secured. 

Care should be taken when purchasing horticultural varieties 



HORTICULTURAL VARIETIES 



249 



of plants not to invest too heavily in "novelties" which have not with- 
stood any test or been passed upon by horticultural societies or other 
authorities. Many so-called novelties are merely old varieties, which 
have long since been superseded, masquerading under new names 
while others are likely to be untried and may be undesirable sorts. The 
amateur in his selection of horticultural varieties should adhere to 
standard varieties which have been generally recognized for a con- 
siderable period. The use of horticultural varieties which are adver- 
tised as a good substitute for standard varieties, unless from some 
reliable nursery, should be avoided. 

SELECT LISTS OF HORTICULTURAL VARIETIES 

The question of publishing special lists of the more standard horti- 
cultural varieties may be open to some criticism. These lists are in- 
teresting for reference. The writer has therefore compiled the follow- 
ing lists which may be considered, at the time of publication of this 
manuscript, as some of the best varieties offered by the trade. Owing 
to importation and hybridization, new varieties are introduced each 
year and, after being thoroughly tested, should be added to these 
hsts in order to keep them up to date. 



A. Lilacs. 

White: 

Singh: 
Alba Major 
Marie Legraye 
Virginalis 

Princess Alexandria 
Frau Bertha Damann 
Double: 

Miss Ellen Willmott 

Madame Casimir Perier 

Madame Lemoine 

Rabelais 

Madame Abel Cliatenay 

Pink to Rosy: 

Single: 

Gloire de Moulins 
Lilarosa 
Othello 
Machrostachya 

Double: 

Emile Lemoine 
M. Maxima Cornu 
Belle de Nancy 



Blue to Bluish Lavender: 
Single: 

Bleuatre 

Caerulea superba 

Colmariensis 
Double: 

President Carnot 

Doyon Keteleer 

President Grevy 

Deep Purple Red to Reddish: 
Single: 

Congo 

Philemon 

Charles X 

Souvenir de Ludwig Spaeth 
Double: 

Charles Joly 

La Tour d'Auvergne 



2 so 

B. 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



Peonies. 



fFhite: 

Le Cygne 

Elizabeth B. Browning 

Kelway's Glorious 

Festiva Maxima 

Baroness Schroeder 

Mme. Emil Lemoine 

Francis Willard 

Albatre 

Alsace Lorraine 

James Kelway 

Enchantresse 

Marie Lemoine 
Light Pink: 

Therese 

Mme. Jules Dessert 

Tourangelle 

Lady Alexander DufF 

La France 

La Fee 

Martha Bullock 

Mary Woodbury Shaylor 

Plea's Jubilee 

Sarah Bernhardt 

La Fontaine 

Standard Bearer 



La Lorraine 
Mignon 
EKvood Pleas 
Marie Crousse 
Milton Hill 
Rosa Bonheur 
Georgiana Shaylor 
Loveliness 
Opal 
Grandiflora 

Deep Pink: 

Mons. Jules Elie 
Walter Faxon 



Red: 



Yellow: 



Phillipe Rivoire 

Karl Rosenfeld 

Longfellow 

Mary Brand 

Mikado 

Richard Carvel 

L' Etincelante (single) 

Mme. Gaudichau 

Solange 
Primevere 



C. Small Flowering Trees. 

Crataegus arnohliana 

Large-flowering Thorn 
Crataegus carrieri 

Carrier's Red-flowering Thorn 
Crataegus cordata 

Washington Thorn 
Crataegus mollis 

Red-flowering Thorn 
Crataegus monogyna alba plena 

Double White-flowering Hawthorn 
Crataegus monogyna punicea 

Single Pink Hawthorn 
Crataegus monogyna rosea 

Pink-flowering Hawthorn 
Crataegus monogyna rubra plena 

Double Red-flowering Hawthorn 
Crataegus oxycantha pauli 

Paul's Double Scarlet-flowering Thorn 
Crataegus puntcata 

Large-fruited Thorn 
Prunus cerasus James H. Veitch 

Rose-pink Flowering Cherry 



Prunus persica alba plena 

Double White-flowering Peach 
Prunus persica rosea plena 

Double Rose-flowering Peach 
Prunus serrulata (many forms) 

Japanese Flowering Cherry 
Prunus sieboldi 

Japanese Pink-flowering Cherry 

Prunus subhirtella pendula 

Japanese Weeping Rose-flowering 
Cherry 
Prunus triloba 

Flowering Plum 
Pyrus atrosanguinea 

Carmine-flowering Crab 
Pyrus baccata 

Siberian Flowering Crab 

Pyrus halliana parkmani 
Parkman's Crab 

Pyrus ioensis bechteli 
Bechtel's Crab 



HORTICULTURAL VARIETIES 



251 



Pyrus malus niedzzvetzkyana 

Deep Pink-flowering Crab 
Pyrus pulcherrima arnoldiana 

Arnold's Large Rose-flowering Crab 
Pyrus pulcherrima scheidfckeri 

Scheidecker's Semi-double Rose- 
flowering Crab 



Pyrus sargenli 

Sargent's White-flowering Crab 
Pyrus sieboldi 

Siebold's Blush-flowering Crab 
Pyrus spectabilis riversi 

Rivers' Semi-double Chinese Flowering 
Crab 



Pyrus zumi 
Low-growing Japanese Crab 



D. Roses. 



a. Best Climbing Roses: (The first three have proven hardy as 
far north as central Ontario.) 



Dorothy Perkins (Pink clusters) 
Baltimore Belle (Blush clusters) 
Prairie Queen (Bright pink clusters) 
Tausendschoen (Double pink) 



Dr. W. Van Fleet (Semi-double light pink) 
Silver Moon (Semi-double white) 
Excelsa (Red Dorothy Perkins) 
Hiawatha (Single red) 



American Pillar (Single pink) 

b. The Hardiest Garden Roses: (Tested in central Ontario and 
Maine.) 



Hybrid Perpetual, Crimson and Red: 
Alfred Colomb 
Baron de Bonstetten 
Eugene Furst 
General Jacqueminot 



John Hopper 
Marshall P. Wilder 
LHrich Brunner 
Prince Camille de Rohan 



2. Hybrid Perpetual, Pink: 

Paul Neyron 

Mrs. Sharman-Crawford 

Mrs. John Laing 

3. Hybrid Perpetual, White: 

Margaret Dickson 

4. Yellow Roses: 

Harison's Yellow 

5. Moss Roses: 

Blanche Moreau 



Gruss an Teplitz 

Anna de Diesbach 

Magna Charta 

Madame Gabrielle Luizet 

Madame Plantier 
Frau Karl Druschki 

Soleil d'Or 

Crested Moss 



Glory of Mosses 



c. The best hybrid tea roses: 

Duchess of Wellington (yellow to orange) 

Killarney (light pink) 

Kaiserin Augusta Victoria (white to 

lemon) 
Madame Ravary (orange yellow) 
Radiance (rose carmine) 
Lvon (salmon pink) 



Lady Ashtown (pale rose) 

Jonkheer J. L. Mock (carmine) 

Gruss an Teplitz (scarlet) 

Harry Kirk (sulphur yellow) 

Betty (coppery rose) 

Mrs. A. R. Waddell (coppery salmon) 

Antoine Rivoire (flesh to cream) 



Madame Jules Bouche (white to blush) 



252 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

E. Broad-leaved Evergreens. 



a. Rhododendrons and azaleas: 

Hybrids. 
Album elegans (light blush) 
Album grandiflora (light blush) 
Alexander Dancer (light rose) 
Atrosanguineum (blood red early) 
Caractacus (rich purplish crimson) 
Charles Bagley (cherry red, late) 
Charles Dickens (bright scarlet, 

early) 
C. S. Sargent (rich crimson) 
Lady Armstrong (pale rose — best 

pink) 
Mrs. C. S. Sargent (bright pink — simi- 
lar to Everestianum) 
Mrs. Milner (rich crimson) 
Roseum elegans (deep rosy purple) 
Boule de Neige (best dwarf white) 
Caerulescens (pale lilac blue) 
Everestianum (rosy lilac — the best) 
F. L. Ames (pale pink) 
Guido (rich crimson) 
H. W. Sargent (crimson, late) 
James Bateman (rich scarlet) 
Kettledrum (deep red, late) 
Lady Grey-Edgerton (light mauve, 

very fine) 
Old Port (rich crimson) 
Purpureum grandiflorum (best purple, 
late) 

Species. 
Rhododendron maximum (white to pink 

— June to July — tall) 
Rhododendron cata-jjbiense (lilac to 

purple) 
Rhododendron catawbiense album 

(white) 
Rhododendron carolinianum (rose — 

June) Best dwarf 



Rhododendron arbutifolium (rich pink — 

July) 
Rhododendron ferrugineum (carmine — 

June to August) 
Rhododendron hirsutum (Pink — June 

to August) (Does not dislike lime) 
Rhododendron myrtifolium (Deep rosy 

pink — July) 
Rhododendron smirnovi (Rosy red — 

May) 
Rhododendron azaleoides (Fragrant pink 

— May and June) 
Rhododendron campanulatum (Lilac — 

June) 

Azaleas (Hardy except in windswept 

locations) 
Rhododendron obtusum amoenum 

(Purple — May) (Azalea amoena) 
Rhododendron canadense (Rhodora 

canadensis) 
Rhododendron vaseyi (Azalea vaseyi) 
Rhododendron nudiflorum (Azalea 

lutea) 
Rhododendron japonicum (Azalea 

mollis) 
Rhododendron canescens (Azalea ca- 

nescens) 
Rhododendron calendulaceum (Azalea 

calendula) 
Rhododendron arborescens (Azalea ar- 

borescens) 
Rhododendron viscosum (Azalea viscosa) 
Rhododendron kaempferi (Rhododen- 
dron indicum kaempferi) 
Rhododendron morten (Azalea ganda- 

vensis) 
Rhododendron ledifolium (Azalea ledi- 

folia) 



b. Other broad-leaved evergreens which should be tried: 



Andromeda polifolia 

Wild Rosemary 
Arctostaphylos uva-ursi 

Bearberry 
Aspidium acrostichoides 

Christmas Fern 
Aubrietia deltoidea 

Purple Rock Cress 



Berberis sargentiana 

Evergreen Barberry 
Chamaedaphne calyculata 

Leather-leaf 
Chimaphila maculata 

Pipsissewa 
Chimaphila umbellata 

Pipsissewa 



HORTICULTURAL VARIETIES 



253 



Chiogenes hispidula 

Evergreen Snowberry 
Cotoneaster adpressa (semi-evergreen) 

Creeping Cotoneaster 
Cotoneaster horizontalis (semi-evergreen) 

Prostrate Cotoneaster 
Cotoneaster microphylla 

Small-leaved Cotoneaster 
Daphne blagayana 

White Garland Flower 
Daphne cneorum 

Garland Flower 
Empetrum atropurpureum, 

Red-fruited Crowberry 
Empetrum nigrum 

Black-fruited Crowberry 
Empetrum eamesi 

Pink-fruited Crowberry 
Epigaea repens 

Trailing Arbutus 
Evonymus radicans (in variety) 

Climbing Evonymus 
Galax aphylla (north exposure only) 

Galax 
Gaultheria procumbens 

Wintergreen 
Helianthemum chamaecisius 

Rock Rose 
Hellehorus niger 

Christmas Rose 
Hippophae rhamnoides 

Sea Buckthorn 
Hypericum aureum 

Large-flowered St. John's Wort 
Iberis sempervirens 

Evergreen Candytuft 
Kalmia angustifolia 

Sheep Laurel 
Kalmia Carolina 

Carolina Laurel 
Kalmia latifolia (in variety) 

Mountain Laurel 



Kalmia ^olifolia 

Swam Laurel 
Ledum groenlandicum 

Labrador Tea 
Ledum palustre 

Narrow-leaved Labrador Tea 
Leiophyllum buxifolium 

Sand Myrtle 
Leucothoe catesbaei 

Catesby's Andromeda 
Mahonia aquifolium (scorches in sun)' 

Oregon Grape 
Mahotiia repens 

Creeping Mahonia 
Mahonia pinnata wagneri 

Pinnate-leaved Mahonia 
Pachysandra terminalis 

Japanese Spurge 
Pieris floribunda 

Mountain Fetterbush 
Polygala chamaebuxus 

Box-leaved Milkwort 
Potentilla tridentata 

Evergreen Cinquefoil 
Pyracantha coccinea 

Evergreen Thorn 
Pyracantha coccinea pauciflora 

Low-growing Fiery Thorn 
Pyxidanthera barbulata 

Flowering Moss 
Shortia galacifolia 

Shortia 
Thymus serpyllum lanuginosus 

Downy Thyme 
Vaccinium (in variety) 

Blueberry 
Viburnum rhytidophyllum 

Evergreen Viburnum 
Vinca minor 

Periwinkle 
Yucca filamentosa 

Adam's Needle 



Zenobia puherulenta 
Zenobia 



F. Lilies. 



a. List of lilies: 

The following table contains the best sorts for the average grower 
and indicates the culture, season of bloom, colour of flower, and usual 



254 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



height. There are four clearly defined types of lilies as indicated in 
the table by the letters A, B, C, and D. First the funnel form like the 
Easter lily (A); then the pendant, spreading, or bell form (B). The 
same flower erect is the cup-like type (C), which flowers earliest of all; 
and the Turk's cap group with petals completely reversed (D). 

(o) All the lilies marked thus should thrive in any ordinary fertile 
garden soil. If the available soil is naturally compact or adhesive it 
can be lightened and made more porous by digging some coarse sand 
or leaf mold into it. If the soil is light and sandy, procure and incor- 
porate with it some clay loam ; but in a broad sense all these lilies can be 
depended upon to live and increase under average garden conditions. 

( + ) These lilies require a good soil and if the soil is heavy it 
should be lightened by the addition of some leaf mold or peat; these 
lilies do not quite so well withstand heat and drought either. Partial 
shade is beneficial, especially at their roots, which can be provided by 
interplanting them among other plants that will shade, yet not too 
densely cover the ground. 

( = ) This group embraces all native species and they are shade 
and moisture loving. Although they lift up their tall flower spikes to 
the bright sun, they like a cool roort run at all times. In a cool north 
corner, or by lake or stream or in any moist hollow, about or near the 
garden, these lilies are a host in themselves wherewith to make a sum- 
mer picture. 

(*) Lilies marked in this manner are stem-rooting. Therefore 
they can be transplanted in the spring. 

TABLE OF LILIES 



















SEASON OF 


TYPE OF 


COLOUR OF 


AVERAGE 


















BLOOM 


FLOWER 


FLOWER 


HEIGHT 














* o 


elegans aluta- 
ceum 


May 


c 


Apricot 


9 inches 


* o 


bulbiferum 


June 


c 


Crimson 


I foot 


♦ o 


elegans Alice 












Wilson 


June 


c 


Lemon yellow 


lift. 


♦ 


elegans aurora 


June 


c 


Orange, suffused with 
red 




♦ o 


elegans incom- 












parabile 


June 


c 


Rich crimson red 
spotted with black 


lift. 


♦ o 


elegans van- 












houttei 


June 


c 


Crimson 


I ft. 



HORTICULTURAL VARIETIES 

TABLE OF LILIES (Continued) 



255 





TRADE OR 


SEASON OF 


TYPE OF 


COLOUR OF 


AVERAGE 


KEY 


NURSERY CATA- 












LOGUE NAME 


BLOOM 


FLOWER 


FLOWER 


HEIGHT 


~"7 


tenuifolium 


June 


D 


Bright scarlet 


lUt. 


» + 


browni 


June, July 


A 


Pure white inside, 
reddish brown out 


2 to 3 ft. 





candidum 


June, July 


A 


Purest white 


4 ft. 


K 


croceum 


June, July 


C 


Deep orange 


3 to 4 ft. 


° 


maculatum 












{hansoni) 


June, July 


D 


Rich yellow spotted 
with black 


3 to 4 ft. 


° 


martagon 


June, July 


D 


Purple 


3ft.^ 


\f 


elegans (iim- 
bellatum da- 












huricum) 


June, July 


C 


Variable pale yellow 
through orange to 
deepest crimson 


2 ft. 


= 


canadense 


July 


D 


Variable in shades of 
yellow and red 


3 ft. 


° 


chalcedonicum 


July 


D 


Bright scarlet 


3 to 4 ft. 




elegans cenus- 
tum macran- 












thum 


July 


C 


Orange 


2 ft. 


° 


testaceum. {ex- 












cels urn) 


July 


D 


Nankeen yellow, 
unique in colour ef- 
fect 


4 to 5 ft. 




grayi 


July 


D 


Red, purple spots 


4 ft. 


+ 


humboldti 


July 


D 


Yellow, purple, white 


4 to 6 ft. 


° 


longifiorum wil- 












soni 


July 


A 


White 


3 to 4 ft. 


° 


martagon album 


July 


D 


Pure white 


3 ft. 


° 


martagon dal- 












maticum 


July 


D 


Dark blackish purple 


4 to 6 ft. 


+ 


szovitzianum 


July 


D 


Pale to deep yellow 
spotted with black 


4 to 5 ft. 


+ 


pardalinum 


July, August 


D 


Varies from orange to 
bright red 


6 to 8 ft. 


= 


su-'>erbum 


July, August 


D 


Orange red to crim- 
son, black spotted 


6 to 8 ft. 


+ 


auratum platy- 




' 








phyllum 


August 


C 


White, red spotted, 
and yellow banded 


4 ft. 


+ 


auratum 


August 


C 


White, crimson 
spotted, yellow 
banded down centre 
of each petal 


4 ft. 


+ 


auratum virgi- 












nale 


August 


c 


White, yellow spotted 
yellow banded 


4 ft. 


+ 


auratum rubro- 












vittatum 


August 


c 


White, crimson band 
down each petal 


4 ft, 



256 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

TABLE OF LILIES (Continued) 





TRADE OR 


SEASON OF 


TYPE OF 


COLOUR OF 


AVERAGE 


KEY 


NURSERY CATA- 












LOGUE NAME 


BLOOM 


FLOWER 


FLOWER 


HEIGHT 


+ 


auratum wittei 


August 


C 


White, unspotted, yel- 
low banded 


4 ft. 


* 


batemanniae 
{elfgans jul- 












gens) 


August 


c 


Rich apricot 


4 ft. 


* 


tigrinum 


August 


B 


Red, heavily spotted 


3 to 4 ft. 


* 


tigrinum splen- 












dens 


August 


C 


Apricot, yellow with 
dark spots 


3 to 4 ft. 


* + 


elegans wallacci 






Deep orange yellow, 
darker protuber- 
ances 


4 to 8 ft. 


* 


kenryi 


August, Sept. 


B 






* 


speciosum al- 












bum 


August, Sept. 


B 


Pure white 


3 ft. 


* 


speciosum ru- 












brum 


August, Sept. 


B 


Rose coloured 


3 ft. 


* 


speciosum mel- 












pomene 


August, Sept. 


B 


Dark crimson purple 


3 ft. 


* 


tigrinum for- 












tunei 


August, Sept. 


B 


Red, heavily spotted 


4 ft. 



b. Easy culture in garden soil: 

Lilium auratum 

Gold-banded Lily 
Lilium candidum 

Madonna Lily 
Lilium croceum 

Alpine Lily 
Lilium philadelphicum 

Wild Red Lily 
Lilium regale 

Regal Lily 



Lilium tenuifolium 
Coral Lily 

Lilium tigrinum 
Tiger Lily 

Lilium speciosum (especially variety 
Tubrum) 
Showy Lily 

Lilium wallacei 
Wallace's Thunbergian Lily 



c. Moist and boggy locations: 

Lilium canadense 

Wild Yellow Lily 
Lilium parryi 

Parry's Lily 
Lilium partmm 

Sierra Nevada Lily 



Lilium roezli 

Santa Cruz Lily 
Lilium pardalinum 

Leopard Lily 
Lilium superbum 

American Turk's Cap Lily 



HORTICULTURAL VARIETIES 

d. Calcareous soil: 



257 



Lilium candidum 

Madonna Lily 
Lilium hanso7\i 

Golden Turk's Cap Lily 



Lilium testaceum 
Nankeen Lily 



Lilium monadflphum 

Caucasian Lily 
Lilium martagon 

European Turk's Cap Lily 



e. Open sunny positions: 

Lilium candidum 

Madonna Lily 
Lilium croceum 

Alpine Lily 
Lilium elegans 

Thunbergian Lily 



Lilium martagon 

European Turk's Cap Lily 
Lilium monadelphum 

Caucasian Lily 
Lilium tigrinum 

Tiger Lily 



Lilium philadelphicum (best of all) 
Wild Red Lily 

/. Undergrowth under shrubs and small trees: 

Lilium speciosum (all sorts) 
Showy Lily 



Sandy or dry soils: 

Lilium bolanderi 
Boland's Lily 



h. Clay soil: 

Lilium candidum 
Madonna Lily 

Lilium croceum 
Alpine Lily 

Lilium elegans 
Thunbergian Lily 



Lilium philadelphicum 
Wild Red Lily 
Lilium carolinianum 
Southern Swamp Lily 



Lilium hansoni 

Golden Turk's Cap Lily 
Lilium monodelphum 

Caucasian Lily 
Lilium tigrinum 
Tiger Lily 
Lilium philadelphicum 
Wild Red Lily 



i. Shady locations: 

Lilium auratum 
Gold-banded Lily 

Lilium hansoni 

Golden Turk's Cap Lily 

Lilium henryi 

Yellow Showy Lily 



Lilium japonicum 

Japanese Lily 
Lilium parryi 

Parry's Lily 
Lilium washingtonianum 

Washington Lily 



CHAPTER XXXIV 
VINES 

Vines constitute a small but important group of plants possessing 
certain characteristics which are very valuable for use in landscape 
design. The annual vines develop to maturity and must be started 
again each season from seed. Perennial vines, once firmly established, 
continue to increase indefinitely, at least during a period of years. 
Many vines, such as the wisteria and ivies, are seen on buildings hun- 
dreds of years old and, in general, the average long-lived vine will out- 
live its period of usefulness on any building, especially on wooden 
structures, which are subject to decay and to periodical repairs. 

To many people a "vine is a vine" without any differentiation as to 
its usefulness. As a matter of fact, vines may be divided into certain 
definite groups which are valuable for different purposes. The knot- 
weed, honeysuckle, and climbing roses represent a group which are 
very desirable for their flowering effect. It often happens that vines 
are desired, not so much for their screen effects as for the effect of pro- 
ducing flowers within a limited space, and thus adding spots of beauty 
to otherwise unattractive and monotonous surfaces. 

It is quite necessary in selecting vines for use on brick work, stone 
and masonry surfaces, that the method of growth of such vines should 
be fully understood. Those vines which grow upon fences and lattice 
work are either scramblers or twiners or they grow by means of ten- 
drils, as do the Virginia creeper and the grape. None of these vines are 
adapted for use on brick work and masonry surfaces. There is a group 
of vines which grow and cling to these surfaces by means of little 
growths, at intervals along their stems, the tips of which, as soon as 
they come in contact with any surface, produce a sticky fluid that 
immediately "cements" the vine to the wall. In the case of the Bos- 
ton ivy the little tendril, at the tip of which is the adhesive substance, 
has a tendency to contract in the manner of a twisted cord and thus 
pull the stem closer to the wall. This is a peculiar provision of nature. 
This list of vines is comparatively small and is represented generally 

as8 



VINES 259 

by the Boston ivy, English ivy, and the climbing evonymus or Japa- 
nese evergreen ivy. The ivies in general are much more rapid 
growers than the evonymus. 

There is one group of vines which possesses a very vigorous climbing 
habit and develops a heavy foliage, such as the Dutchman's pipe, 
Virginia creeper, kudzu vine, and the knotweed. Of this list of vines 
the American bitter-sweet and the Dutchman's pipe possess an inter- 
esting heavy foliage. 

Vines are valuable not only for their flowering effect but they are 
valuable for the effect of their fruit also. Some vines, such as the 
matrimony vine, with its brilliant orange fruit, and the American 
bitter-sweet, with its red and orange fruit, together with the Virginia 
creeper, with its interesting blue fruit, are valuable in a landscape set- 
ting far into the winter months. 

Oftentimes local conditions require the selection of a permanent 
vine with a fast growing habit. It may not be advisable to use annuals, 
but rather to use a more permanent type and accordingly the designer 
resorts to such plants as the Dutchman's pipe, the knotweed, and the 
kudzu vine, which under normal conditions will make a growth 
ranging from ten to forty feet in a single season. The knotweed is not 
entirely hardy in severe exposures and the young plants should not be 
planted in the open ground before the latter part of May. 

In general, vines fill a gap in the field of landscape planting which 
cannot be filled with shrubs. Where conditions develop in which only 
a limited space is available for foliage, flower and fruiting effects, 
vines must be accepted as the logical solution of the planting problem. 
A quite common mistake in the use of vines is to select types which are 
too fast growing or which are not adapted to the special purpose for 
which they are used. A common mistake also is that of covering 
interesting pieces of brick work and stone masonry with vines which 
completely obscure the beauty of the architectural detail. Vines 
should be used on buildings to emphasize the architectural detail; 
otherwise there is little use in spending sums of money to produce 
added beauty in architecture if such detail is immediately to be 
covered with vines. We often see an elevation of a house on which 
appears a chimney with the entire surface of the house and chimney 
covered with vines. In such instances the vines, for the purpose of 
architectural composition, should be planted only on the chimney or 
on the surfaces at either side of the chimney and not on the chimney. 



26o 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



Many persons object to the use of certain types of vines such as the 
Virginia creeper and the ivies, which form a beautiful roosting place 
for sparrows immediately opposite sleeping-room windows, and for such 
locations a type of vine similar to the evonymus should be used, which 
does not provide a shelter for these pests. 

LIST OF VINES 

The vines included in the groups of this list are respectively valuable 
for their ability to produce flowers, for their use on brick and stone 
masonry, for foliage effect, for fruiting characteristics, and for their 
fast growing characteristics. Certain vines may be included in one 
or more groups because of the value of certain characteristics in each 
group. It should be remembered that the distinction between vines of 
different types for different purposes is equally as marked as the differ- 
ence in shrubs and perennials. 



A. Flowering: 

Aciinidia arguta 

Dark-leaved Silver Vine 
Aristolochia sipho 

Dutchman's Pipe 
Bignonia radicaiis 

Trumpet Vine 
Clnnatis (in variety) 

Clematis 
Lathryus latifolius 

Hardy Sweet Pea 



Lonuera (in variety) 

Honeysuckle 
Polygonum baldschitanicum 

Knorvveed 
Quamoclit pinnate 

Cypress Vine 
Rosa (in variety) 

Climbing Rose 
JJ'istfria (in variety) 

Wisteria 



B. Use on Brick, Stone, and Masonry: 



Ampetopsis engelmanni 
Engelmann's Ampelopsis 

Ampelopsis tricuspidata lowi 
Lowe s Boston Ivy 



Bignonia radicans 

Trumpet Vine 
Evonymus radicans 
Climbing Evonymus 
Ampelopsis tricuspidata vfitchi Hedera helix 

Boston Ivy English Ivy 

Schizophragma hydrangeoides 
Climbing Hydrangea 



C. Climbing Habit and Heavy Foliage: 

Actinidia (in variety) 
Silver Vine 

Ampelopsis guinquefolia 



\mp 
Vii 



dn 



irginia Creeper 



Aristolochia sipho 
Dutchman's Pipe 

Bignonia radicans 
Trumpet Vine 



VINES 



Celaslrus scandens 

American Bitter-sweet 
Clematis paniculata 

Japanese Clematis 
Clematis virginiana 

Wild Clematis 
Emnymus radicans 

Climbing Evonymus 



Lonicera (in variety) 

Honeysuckle 
Periploca graeca 

Silk Vine 
Pueraria thunbergiana 

Kudzu Vine 
Wisteria (in variety) 

Wisteria 



261 



D. Fruiting: 

Actinidia (in variety) 

Silver Vine 
Akehia ijuinata 

Five-leaved Akebia 
Ampelrjpsis acunitifolia 

Cut-leaved Vitis 
Ampelopsis helerophylla 

Asiatic Creeper 
Ampelopsis quinquefolia 

Virginia Creeper 
CelastTus orbiculatus 

Japanese Bitter-sweet 



Celastrus scandens 

American Bitter-sweet 
Clematis paniculata 

Japanese Clematis 
Clematis virginiana 

Wild Clematis 
Lycium halimijolium 

Matrimony Vine 
Rosa (in variety) 

Climbing Rose 
Solanum dulcamara 

Woody Nightshade 



E. Fast Growing: 

Actinidia (in variety) 

Silver Vine 
Ampelopsis aconitifolia 

Cut-leaved Vitis 



Ampelopsis heterophylla 

Asiatic Creeper 
Arisiolochia sipho 

Dutchman's Pipe 
Bignonia radicans 
Trumpet Vine 

Polygonum haldschuanicum 
Knotweed 



Clematis paniculata 

Japanese Clematis 
Humulus japonicus 

Japanese Hop 
Lonicera japonica halliana 

Japanese Honeysuckle 
Periploca graeca 

Silk Vine 



Pueraria thunbergiana 
Kudzu Vine 



CHAPTER XXXV 
WINDOW BOXES AND HANGING BASKETS 

Strictly speaking, window boxes do not come under the category 
of planting or designing the grounds, but in a vital way they serve to 
tie the house to the lawn and gardens and thus help to produce the 
immediate effect of a harmonious whole. Particularly are they 
valuable in imparting a cozy and "lived-in" atmosphere to a new 
house. Many otherwise uninteresting houses have been made very 
attractive through the use of window boxes. A severe type of archi- 
tecture demands a window-box treatment developed with the heavier 
kinds of foliage plants such as English ivy, geraniums, and fuchsias, 
while a lighter architectural design requires vincas, snapdragons, and 
ageratums. The selection of plants for successful window boxes must 
be the result of some study of the effect to be produced and the kinds of 
materials necessary to produce the effect. 

Not all of our plants can be used in window-box planting. Plants 
for this purpose must retam their foliage throughout the summer, the 
period of bloom must continue for a number of weeks, and the normal 
growth of the plant should not be impaired b\' crowding the root 
development within a small area. 

Two cardinal principles apply to the design and use of window 
boxes. Never put wmdow boxes on a building unless the architectural 
composition requires them, and do not select for them plants which 
are out of scale with the architectural detail. When planning the 
window boxes the effect of the colour scheme should be considered 
from the inside of the various rooms in the house as well as the effect 
upon the aspect of the house itself. 

There are numerous possibilities outside of the conventional boxes 
planted with periwinkle, geraniums, and daisies. Almost any of the 
showy dwarf-growing annuals may be used and the opportunity for 
various colour schemes with them is practically endless. 

If bright colour is needed the dwarf, giant-flowering snapdragon, 
which comes in many brilliant shades and grows about twelve inches 

262 



WINDOW BOXES AND HANGING BASKETS 263 

high, is good. The dwarf zinnia is perhaps even more briUiant in its 
various colours. It is also stiffer in its habit of growth and conse- 
quently better for a windy location. California poppies can be had in 
all shades of yellow and orange and could be used with nicotiana for a 
white and yellow box. Another good combination is blue lobelia, pink 
verbena, and asparagus fern. 

Care should be taken to select the flowers which will bloom simul- 
taneously. Foliage plants should be used to provide an abundance 
of green, and enough vines and flowers of a drooping habit should be in- 
troduced to counteract the stiff^ness of the box. 

When planting, pack the roots in firmly on account of the wind. 
For an unusually windy position it is best to use a deeper box. In 
choosing the plants, exposure is the first important consideration. (See 
the following lists.) For sunny positions the more vigorous growing 
and flowering plants are apt to do best, while in shade ferns and 
foliage plants, generally speaking, are more successful. In a dusty 
location smoother-leaved plants such as myrtle and ivy geraniums 
should be used. 

Inside window boxes should get sunshine and plenty of fresh air 
but must never be placed in a draft. The temperature for the average 
house plant is between 55° at night to 70° in the daytime. The plants 
should be watered regularly and the foliage sprayed two or three times 
a week, with the exception of those plants with fuzzy foliage, such as 
gloxinia, where moisture upon the leaves would cause decay. Hang- 
ing baskets should be lined with moss in order to retain their moisture. 

The soil used in all window boxes must be rich, as the roots are so 
crowded and ample plant food must be available. A good soil mix- 
ture for this purpose is two parts garden loam, one part rotted leaf 
mold, and one part sand, mixed with one part well-rotted manure. 
This mixture can be procured from any florist. As the box becomes 
filled with roots it is necessary to furnish food to the plants by working 
into the soil a small amount of bone meal or well-rotted manure every 
week or ten days. 

The box may be constructed of various materials: concrete, terra 
cotta, or wood. The inside measurements for a window box should be 
six inches to eight inches deep and ten inches to twelve inches wide. 
The outside measurements should be fourteen inches wide and one 
inch shorter than the window or space it is to occupy. A very long 
box can be made in sections averaging three feet to four feet in length, 



264 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

to facilitate the handling of it. Three-quarter inch holes should be 
bored in the bottom of the box every twelve inches, to provide drainage. 
A zinc or galvanized iron lining in a wooden box is desirable but not 
absolutely necessary. However, if a lining is not used it is best to 
have the inside of the box charred to prevent rotting of the wood. 
This is done by washing the inside, both bottom and sides, with kero- 
sene and then lighting the oil and allowing it to burn until a thin 
charred coating is formed. The box is turned upside down to smother 
the flames. The most permanent types of window boxes are lined with 
copper. All boxes, whether or not they are lined, must be provided 
with holes for drainage. The absence of these holes may cause the 
soil to become sour from overwatering, a condition which is avoided 
when drainage is provided. 

A. Window Boxes. The following group of plants are those 
adapted for window boxes in varying exposures of sunlight. These 
plants should not be placed in window boxes which cannot be thor- 
oughly drained unless great care is exercised in watering; otherwise 
the soil will become sour and the plants will be "drowned out." 

a. South or west exposure: 

Ageratxim houstonianum (dwarf) Hedera helix 

Floss Flower English Ivy 

Antirrhinum (intermediate or dwarf) Heliotropium peruvianum 

Snapdragon Heliotrope 

Codiaeum (in variety) Lobelia 

Croton Annual Lobelia 

Dracaena indivisa Alaurandia (in variety) 

Dracena Maurandy Vine 

Geranium S. H. Nutt Nepeta glechoma 

Cardinal Geranium Ground Ivy 

Geranium Bruant Pelargonium pellaium 

Scarlet Geranium Ivy-leaved Geranium 

Geranium Beaute Poitevine Phlox drummondi 

Salmon Double Geranium Drummond's Phlox 

Swainsona galegifolia 
Swainsonia 

h. East exposure: 

Antirrhinum (dwarf or intermediate) Dracaena indivisa 

Snapdragon Dracena 

Begonia (tuberous-tooted) Ferns 

Tuberous Begonia Many varieties 



WINDOW BOXES AND HANGING BASKETS 



265 



Heliotropium peruvianum 

Heliotrope 
Linaria cymbalaria 

Kenilworth Ivy 
Pelargonium peltatum Chas. 

Ivy-leaved Geranium 



Petunia hybrida 

Petunia 
Solanum jasminoides 
Jerusalem Cherry Vine 
Turner Tropaeolum majus 

Nasturtium 
Finca major (variegated) 
Trailing Vinca 



c. North exposure: 

Ageratum houstonianum (dwarf) 

Floss Flower 
Asparagus sprengeri 

Asparagus Fern 
Caladium (small leaf varieties) 

Elephant's Ear 
Fern 

Boston Fern 



Fuchsia (in variety) 

Trailing Fuchsia 
Ipomoea (in variety) 

Morning Glory 
Nepeta glechoma 

Ground Ivy 
Petunia hybrida 

Petunia 



Vinca major (variegated) 
Trailing Vinca 

B. Hanging Baskets. The group of plants adapted for use in 
hanging baskets is much larger than might at first be anticipated. 
The great danger in the cultivation of plants in hanging baskets is the 
danger of drying out. 

a. Vine-like habit: 

Asparagus sprengeri 

Asparagus Fern 
Cobaea scandens 

Cup and Saucer Vine 
Fuchsia procumhens 

Trailing Fuchsia 
Hedera helix 

English Ivy 
Ipomoea (in variety) 

Morning Glory 
Lantana (in variety) 

Lantana 
Linaria cymbalaria 

Kenilworth Ivy 
Lobelia speciosa 

Lobelia 
Lysimachia nummularia 

Moneywort 
Maurandia (in variety) 

Maurandy Vine 



Nepeta glechoma 

Ground Ivy 
Oxalis floribunda 

Oxalis 
Passiflora caerulea 

Passion Flower 
Petunia hybrida 

Petunia 
Saxifraga sarmentosa 

Strawberry Geranium 
Senecio scandens 

Summer Ivy 
Solanum jasminoides 

Jerusalem Cherry Vine 
Thunbergia alata 

Thunbergia 
Tropaeolum majus 

Nasturtium 
Verbena hybrida 

Verbena 
Vinca major (variegated) 
Trailing Vinca 



266 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



b. Upright habit and good flowers: 

Begonia (tuberous varieties) 
Tuberous Begonia 

Cuphea llavea 

Cigar Plant 
Fuchsia (in variety) 

Ladies' Eardrop 
Geranium (in variety) 

Geranium 
Impatiens sultana 

Touch-me-not 



Lantana (in variety) 

Lantana 
Nierembergia gracilis 

White Cup 
Petunia hybrida 

Petunia 
Salvia splendens 

Scarlet Sage 
Stevia serrata nana 

Dwarf Stevia 



c. Upright habit and good foliage: 

Aspidistra lurida 

Tall Evergreen Aspidistra 
Caladium 

Elephant's Ear 
Cineraria maritima 

Dusty Miller 
Coleus blumei verschafelti 

Coleus 



Palms (in variety) 



Cyperus alternifolius 

Umbrella Plant 
Dracaetia indivisa 

Dracena 
Fern 

(in variety) 
Iresine lindeni 

Narrow-leaved Achyranthes 



CHAPTER XXXVI 

BULBS 

This is a type of planting which can provide as many interesting 
flower effects as any annual, perennial, or shrub planting. It is the 
type of planting that provides flowers at a period of the year from late 
March until the latter part of May, when the garden and lawn are 
otherwise bare of flowers. The information concerning this group of 
plantings covering the possible types to be used, the eflFects to be ob- 
tained, and the care of the mature plants, has not been so freely dis- 
tributed to the owners of our homes as it should have been. After the 
monotonous, uninteresting landscape presented by the lawn and garden 
areas in the vicinity of residences during the long winter months, these 
touches of flower eff^ects are of double value as an introduction to the 
possibilities of the flowering shrubs and garden plants. So important 
is this subject that an entire chapter of this book. Chapter VI, has 
been devoted to the culture of bulbs. 

It is the general impression that "bulbs are bulbs" for practically 
one use. It is not realized that such a wide variation exists in the 
purposes for which bulbs may be used and in the different types of 
bulbs which are used. 

As a matter of fact, with the proper planting of bulbs, a continuous 
succession of flowers can be obtained during a normal season from 
the middle part of March, beginning with the crocuses and the early 
narcissi, extending through the early part of May, with the early tulips 
and the late narcissi, and ending with the Darwin tulips during the 
last part of May to be immediately followed by such garden flowers 
as the early ins, the columbine, the alyssum, and the lilac. 

There are bulbs which are logically adapted to refined lawn and 
garden areas, bulbs which are adapted for naturalizing in woodlands 
and wild gardens, interesting combinations of bulbs, and types of bulbs 
valuable for forcing during the late winter months. The life of the 
average bulb under normal conditions is approximately three years 
after which time the bulbs must be replaced with new material; the 



268 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

only exception being that such bulbs as those of the crocus and three 
varieties of narcissi, Von Sion, Victoria, and the poet's, will continue to 
multiply under ideal conditions for a number of years, provided the 
tops are permitted to remain a sufficient time after flowering in order 
to ripen the bulb. 

In the selection of bulbs for garden plantings we have practically the 
entire field from which to draw for material adapted to the refined lawn 
and garden planting. The degree of refinement depends largely upon 
our knowledge of the proper combinations of bulbs which will give 
interesting flower effects, flowers that appear at the same and at suc- 
cessive dates, and flowers of the same height. In making plantings of 
bulbs for lawn and garden efl^ects careful attention should be given 
to the other groups showing narcissi for different locations, and the 
interesting tulip combinations. 

One of the most interesting groups of bulbs is the group valuable for 
naturalization in woodland and wild garden areas. These bulbs must 
be of the kind that will continue to multiply without further care than 
is ordinarily given to such areas on the average estate. All of the bulbs 
in this list should, after being properly planted, grow in succeeding 
years into clumps through the increase of the small bulblets, and the 
mature plants should be almost as vigorous as during the first year or 
two after the bulbs were planted. In other words, they should not 
show a tendency to run out. Occasionally, unless conditions are ideal, 
such plants as the trillium and some of the lilies will continue to 
grow but will not multiply. This is a freak of plant life which those 
who have given considerable thought to experimenting in the natural- 
ization of plants cannot fully explain. Many of the bulbs in this 
group such as the yellow lily leek, lily-of-the-valley, adder's tongue, 
and trillium, desire a great amount of shade. The other bulbs such as 
lilies, narcissi, squills, and tulips require more sunlight. 

It is well to know the adaptations of diflferent varieties of the nar- 
cissus. The writer has accordingly referred to this in passing, and we 
should bear closely in mind the fact that the poet's narcissus, with its 
varieties, is adapted to the heavy lower ground, while the large trumpet 
types are adapted to a rich, well-drained loam. The proper selection 
of combinations of bulbs for flowering effects, either simultaneous flow- 
ering or a succession of bloom, is one of the interesting studies in bulb 
plantings. So many extremely interesting effects can be obtained 
with a proper selection and planting, and so many uninteresting 



BULBS 269 

flowering effects can be avoided, that a few standard types of bulb 
combinations have been shown under this discussion. Bulbs are 
divided into the early-flowering types, most of which are single, and the 
late-flowering types among which are the Darwin tulips, most of 
which grow twice as tall as the early flowering. There are so many 
varieties of tulips and such a confusion of nomenclature that to lay 
down definite rules and to frame ironclad lists of bulbs would be futile. 
It is suflScient to suggest that bulbs for excellent plantings should be 
selected and grouped by an expert, or that sources of expert infor- 
mation should be consulted in order to insure the proper effects. So 
often, for example, yellow and white or orange and yellow tulips are 
planted for a combination of flower effect, when in reality one of the 
bulbs is of the early-flowering type and the other variety is of the late- 
flowering type, neither of which will be in bloom during the blooming 
period of the other. To avoid mistakes of this kind, and for the use 
of the amateur who has no ready access to the sources of information, 
nor the time to devote the necessary study to this question, a number 
of bulb combinations have been given which will serve to meet the 
average requirements. As a matter of fact, bulbs planted for their 
individual flowers fall far short of providing the most interesting effect. 
They should be planted for their mass effect and as an interesting com- 
bination of colour. 

Bulbs may be planted either for a formal or for an informal and more 
natural effect. The first planting requires the stiff symmetrical lines of 
refined lawn and garden areas; the second effect requires the more 
informal, flowing lines, either of the refined lawn areas or of the in- 
formal garden areas. It is quite a matter of taste which of these 
effects should be desired. Many persons desire the conventional, un- 
interesting ribbon boundary bordering the edges of shrubbery, while 
others desire the more natural, scattered mass effect which gives here 
and there a spot of colour and a certain relief to the bare effect of the 
shrubbery plantings prior to the time of breaking their buds, and also 
to the ground underneath. It is important to know the time of 
flowering for various types of bulbs in order that the late-flowering 
types, such as the Darwin tulips, may not be scattered through a shrub 
planting of the bridal wreath spirea, or the early honeysuckle, where 
the full leaf effect will obscure the flower effect of the bulbs. 

Not every variety of bulb is suitable for forcing purposes. A few 
varieties of bulbs are extremely suitable, while a few of the varieties 



270 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

of the crocus and of the Spanish iris can be forced successfully only 
under the most favourable conditions of heat and light. Some of the 
early tulips are preeminently good for forcing while some varieties are 
not adapted to this method of growing them. Many of the cottage 
tulips and nearly all the Darwins can be used successfully. All 
hyacinths, some more than others, and many narcissi are satisfactory. 
But before trying varieties not named in the list one should consult a 
reliable trade catalogue. For early forcing particular care should be 
used to select large, plump bulbs. 

LIST OF BULBS 

A. Refined Lawn and Garden Areas. This group contains only 
the standard types and varieties of bulbs from which to select material 
for the average planting. There are hundreds of varieties of bulbs 
which may be used with more or less success; but this list is intended to 
be merely a safe guide to the beginner. 

Chionodoxa luciliae Narcissus barri 

Glory-of-the-Snow Short Cup or Trumpet Daffodil 

Crocus (fall blooming) Narcissus incomparabilis 

Crocus Medium Trumpet Daffodil 

Crocus (spring blooming) Narcissus hedsi 

Crocus White Daffodil 

Galanthus elwesi Narcissus poeticus 

Giant Snowdrop Poet's Narcissus 

Hyacinthus (in variety) Narcissus Trumpet major 

Hyacinth Long Trumpet Daffodil 

Muscari botryoides Scilla sibirica 

Grape Hyacinth Siberian Squill 

Narcissus (double) Tulipa (in variety) 

Narcissus Tulip 

B. Naturalizing in Woodland and Wild Gardens. Bulbs 
valuable for naturalization in woodland and wild garden areas must 
be of the kind which will continue to increase without further care 
than is ordinarily given to such an area. All of the material in this 
group, except the gold-banded lily, may be expected, after bemg prop- 
erly planted, to continue with the succeeding j^ears to become thicker 
in growth and still remain nearly as vigorous as when first planted. 

Allium moly Convallaria majalis 
Yellow Lily Leek Lily-of-the-valley 

Camassia esculenta Eranthis hyemalis 
Wild Hyacinth Winter Aconite 



Erythronium americanum 

Adder's tongue 
Fritiilaria meleagris 

Guinea-hen Flower 
Leucojum vernum carpaiicum 

Snowflake 
Lilium auralum 

Gold-banded Lily 
Lilium canadense 

Wild Yellow Lily 
Lilium candidum 

Madonna Lily 
Lilium philadelphicum 

Wild Red Lily 
Lilium speciosum 

Showy Lily 
Lilium tigrinum 

Tiger Lily 



BULBS 

Narcissus poeticus 

Poet's Narcissus 
Narcissus leedsi amahilis 

Short-cupped White Daffodil 
Narcissus Trumpet Major 

Long Trumpet Daffodil 
Ornithogalum umbellatum 

Star of Bethlehem 
Scilla campanulata 

Squill 
Trillium erectum 

Wake Robin 
Trillium grandiflorum 

Large-flowered Wake Robin 
Tulipa clusiana 

Lady Tulip 
Tulipa greigi 

Early-flowering Red Tulip 
Tulipa kavfmanniana 
Early Tulip 



271 



C. Narcissi for Different Locations. In moist, well-drained 
loam use the large trumpet types. In heavier, damper, lower ground 
use the poeticus and double gardenia-flowered form. In warmer 
climates, on damp, moist soil, use the double daffodil. In rockeries 
use the hoop-petticoat, cyclamen-flowered, and triandrus sections. 



D. Tulip Combinations. The most interesting effect can be 
obtained from the planting of tulips when study and thought are given 
to the colour effects of the flowers. Many interesting plantings of 
tulips have been completely spoiled from the standpoint of the land- 
scape eff^ect in a garden and on a lawn because sufficient thought has 
not been given to the relationship between the colours of the flowers 
and the season of bloom. It sometimes requires a complementary 
colour or a contrasting colour to make the most interesting flower 
effect. There are many tulip combmations which may be selected, 
but the following are a few which may be used as a guide: 

a. Single: 

S Jeannette (crimson red, edged old rose) ( Kohinoor (crimson red, purplish bloom) 
( Rose precoce (creamy white) < Rose Aplati (blush white, edged salmon 

( rose) 

( Primrose Queen (primrose edged canary 
S Queen of the Netherlands (pale rose) i yellow) 
} Van Berghem (carmine red) ( Wouverman (dark purple) 



272 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



{ Goldfinch (chrome yellow) 
( Princess Helena (pure white) 

S Chrysolora (clear golden yellow) 
( Dusart (vermilion red) 

S Golden Lion(primrose yellow, edged red) 
White Hawk (pure white) 

Primrose Queen (primrose edged canary 

yellow) 
Princess Wilhelmina(deep pink) 



Lady Boreel (snowy white) 
Joost Van Vondel (cherry red flaked 
white) 

Rose Aplati (white edged salmon rose) 
Jaune Aplati (sulphur yellow flushed pale 
rose) 



^ trifle (five to six days) later than the above are: 



S Golden Horn (primrose yellow) 
Rosa Mundi Huyckman (rose pink) 



LeReve (old rose flushed buflF) 
White Swan (pure white) 
L'Interessante (dark violet) 



h. Double: Not as graceful as single. Heavy rains quickly bend 
over or break the stems of the huge blooms. A trifle later than 
singles: 



SLac van Haarlem (rosy violet) 
Safrano (pale sulphur yellow) 

( Sweetheart (white, slightly tinged pale 

■j rose) 

( Don Carlos (glowing crimson) 

SRose d'Amour (pale flesh rose) 
Salvator Rosa (deep rose, flushed white) 



j LeMatador (glowing scarlet) 

\ Schoonoord (white sport from Murillo) 

Boule de Niege (pure white) 
Couronne d'Or (deep yellow) 



Blue Celeste (violet purple) 
Yellow Rose (yellow) 



c. Cottage: 

Carnation (white, margined rose) 
Solferino (pale yellow) 
Fairy Queen (rosy lilac) 



( Picotee (white, margined rose) 
•j Inglescombe Pink (rosy pink) 
( Doris (rosy lilac) 

5 Moonlight (canary yellow) 
Twilight (mauve) 
Bouton d'Or (deep yellow) 



d. Darwins: 

i Chestnut (dark mahogany) 

■< Clara Butt (rose) 

/ Europa (light American beauty) 

( Gretchen (pale pink) 
■j Clara Butt (rose) 
( Crepuscule (lilac) 



Franz Hals (reddish heliotrope) 
Princess Juliana (American beauty) 
Dream (pale heliotrope) 

Yolande (soft rose) 
La Tulipe Noire (purple black) 
Reverend Ewbank (lavender) 
Europa (bright rose) 



BULBS 273 

E. Best Varieties for Forcing. The following bulbs are good 
varieties for forcing. A few kinds (see Group b) will flower if kept 
in bowls of water with enough pebbles to hold them upright. 



a. Forcing in soiL 

Tulips — early single: 
Due Van ThoU (various colours) 
Duchesse de Parma (crimson witii yellow 

margin) 
Chrysolora (yellow) 
Cottage Maid (pink) 
Flamingo (pink) 
Vermilion Brilliant (scarlet) 
Joost van Vondel (striped, red and white) 
Proserpine (deep rose with metallic petals) 

Medium-flowering tulips: 
Thomas Moore (orange) 
Yellow Prince (yellow) 
White Swan (white) 
Rose Grisdehn (pink) 
Pottebakker (scarlet, yellow, and white) 
Couleur Cardinal (dark crimson) 

Double tulips for forcing: 
Boule de Neige (white) 
Murillo (pink) 
Crown of Gold (yellow) 
Imperator Rubrorum (scarlet) 

Cottage Tulips: 
Bouton d'Or (chrome yellow) 
Carnation (white margined carmine) 
Elegans alba (creamy white) 
Fairy Queen (rosy lilac) 
Inglescombe Pink (soft rosy pink) 
La Candeur (silvery white) 
Striped Beauty (silvery rose) 
Vitellina (primrose to creamy white) 

Darwin Tulips: 

For late February or early March: 
Bartigon (deep red) 
Pride of Haarlem (purple rose) 
William Copeland (lavender) 
William Pitt (dark red) 
Rev. H. Ewbank (light lavender) 

For late March and early April: 
All names in above 
Dream (dark lilac) 
Europe (vivid red) 
Massachusetts (silvery pink) 
White Queen (white, flushed pink) 
Harry Veitch (brown red) 
Princess Elizabeth (deep pinlc) 



Psyche (pink) 

Sieraad van Flora (vivid rose) 
Farnecombe Sanders (fiery scarlet) 
Mme. Krelage (dark pink) 

For late April or early May: 
Clara Butt (shell pink) 
Baronne de la Tonnaye (bright rose) 
Gretchen (soft pink) 
Loveliness (bright rose) 
Nora Ware (lilac) 

Hyacinths (in order of earliness): 
Garibaldi (deep crimson) 
Hein Roozen (white) 
Lady Derby (rose pink) 
Yellow Hammer (creamy yellow) 
BufF Beauty (pale yellow striped with 

straw) 
Corregio (white) 
Count Andrassy (lavender blue) 
Enchantress (porcelain blue) 
General de Wet (soft light pink) 
Pink Perfection (mauve rose) 
La Grandesse (white) 
Oranjeboven (pale salmon-tinged rose) 
King of the Blues (dark blue) 
Etna (dark rose) 

Large trumpet Narcissi: 
Emperor 
Empress 
Golden Spur 
Horsfieldi 
Mme. de GraafF 
Olympia 
Silver Spur 
Victoria 
W. P. Milner 
William Goldring 

Medium trumpet narcissi: 
Sir Watkin 
Barri conspicuous 
Poeticus ornatus 
Sea Gull 
White Lady 

Double narcissi: 
Van Sion 
Orange Phoenix 



274 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



Paper White Narcissus (all varieties) 

Miscellaneous Bulbs: 

Chionodoxa 
Glory-of-the-snow 

Convallaria majalis 
Lily-of-the-valley 

Freesia refracta alba 
Freesia 



Galanthus 
Snowdrop 

Gladiolus The Bride 
Sword Flower 

Hyacinth Dutch and Roman 
Early single varieties 

Ixia 
African Corn Lily 



h. Forcing in water 

Crocus 

Mammoth Yellow Crocus 
Hyacinth Roman 

(large bulbs) 
Narcissus Golden Spur 

Trumpet Narcissus 



Narcissus horsfieldi 

Trumpet Narcissus 
Narcissus polyanthus totus albus 

Paper White Narcissus 
Narcissus polyanthus Soleil d'Or 
Yellow Paper White Narcissus 
Sprekelia formosissima 
Jacobaean Lily 



CHAPTER XXXVII 

FRAGRANT PLANTS 

The group of trees, shrubs, and perennials whose flowers or leaves 
are fragrant is an important group in the development of an inter- 
esting variation in landscape plantings, especially on the larger places. 
There are certain varieties of shrubs, such as the common mock orange, 
the flowers of which are extremely fragrant, while the flowers of some of 
the other varieties have no odour whatever. This is a peculiar 
condition which has not been fully explained, but one which makes a 
marked diff"erence in the effect of plantings from the standpoint of the 
fragrance of their flowers. A garden possesses greater charm if fra- 
grance is one of its attributes. In older times many plants were 
grown for their sweet odours, both of flowers and leaves. This 
feature has not been given its due importance in the landscape plant- 
ings of to-day, and a little study will convince one that a wealth of 
fragrance can be easily obtained in any planting of trees, shrubs, and 
perennials, by the proper selection of a few types of plants. The 
fragrant honeysuckle has a very attractive odour, while the tartarian 
honeysuckle has flowers with no fragrant odour whatever. The 
horse-chestnut has flowers with little or no odour, while the false 
acacia and the black locust fill the air with fragrance. Violets, trailing 
arbutus, and liHes-of-the-valley add a certain fragrance to the garden, 
which odour is entirely lacking in many other varieties of perennials. 

LIST OF FRAGRANT PLANTS 

A. Fragrant Flowers. The plants in this group are valuable 
because of the fragrance of their flowers. It is an interesting fact 
that many species of the same genus are not equally valuable because 
of the flower fragrance. This is true especially with the mock orange. 

a. Shrubs: 

Azalea arborescens Azalea canescens 

Smooth Azalea Fragrant Mountain Azalea 

27S 



276 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



Azalea viscosa 

Swamp Azalea 
Buddleia vcilchiana 

Summer Lilac 
Calycanth us floridus 

Strawberry Shrub 
Clethra alni/olia 

Sweet Pepper Bush 
Corylopsis spicata 

Flowering Hazel 
Daphne cneorum 

Garland Flower 
Ilea virgin tea 

Virginian Willow 
Lonicera fragrantissima 

Early Fragrant Honeysuckle 
Lonicera spinosa alberli 

Large-fruited Honeysuckle 
Lonicera xylosleum 

Fly Bush Honeysuckle 
Magnolia conspicua 

Chinese White Magnolia 
Magnolia glauca 

Swamp Magnolia 
Osmanthus aqitifolium 

Fragrant Olive 
Philadelphus coronarius 

Common Mock Orange 
Philadelphus zeyheri 

Hybrid Mock Orange 



Pyrus angustifolia 

Narrow-leaved Crab 
Pyrus haccata 

Siberian Flowering Crab 
Pvrus cnronaria 

'Wild Crab 
Pyrus ftoribunda 

Flowering Crab 
Pyrus ioensis bechteli 

Bechtel's Crab 
Pyrus spectabilis riversi 

Rivers' Semi-double 

Chinese Flowering Crab 
Rhododendron azaleoides 

Hybrid Pinkster Flower 
Ribes aureum 

Flowering Currant 
Ribes gordonianum 

Flowering Currant 
Rosa (in variety) 

Rose 
Rubus deliciosus 

Rocky Mountain Flowering Raspberry 
Rubus odor at us 

Flowering Raspberry 
Syringa vulgaris 

Common Lilac 
Viburnum carlesi 

Korean viburnum 



b. Trees: 

Catalpa speciosa 
Western Catalpa 

Gleditsia triacanthos 
Honey Locust 



Paulownia tomentosa 

Empress Tree 
Robinia pseudacacia 
Black Locust 
Tilia (in variety) 
Linden 



c. Perennials: 

Arabis albida 

Rock Cress 
Artemisia lactiflora 

Southernwood 
Asperula odoraia 

Sweet Woodruff 
Cheiranthus cheiri (tender) 

Wallflower 



Clematis davidiana 

David's Clematis 
Clematis recta 

Herbaceous Clematis 
Convallaria majalis 

Lily-of-the-valley 
Dianthus plumarius 

Scotch Pink 



FRAGRANT PLANTS 



277 



Dictamnus fraxinella 

Gas Plant 
Epigaea repens 

Trailing Arbutus 
Funkia (in variety) 

Plantain Lily 
Hemerocallis aurantiaca 

Fragrant Orange Lily 
Hemerocallis flava 

Lemon Lily 
Hemerocallis thunbergi - 

Lemon Lily 
Hesperis matronalis 

Sweet Rocket 
Iris germanica 

German Iris 
Lavandula vera 

Lavender 



Malva mosckaia 

Musk Mallow 
Monarda (in variety) 

Bergamot 
Oenothera (in variety) 

Evening Primrose 
Paeonia albiflora sinensis 

Chinese Peony 
Phlox paniculata 

Garden Phlox 
Trifolium repens 

White Clover 
Valeriana (in variety) 

Valerian 
Viola odorata semperflorens 

Violet 
Yucca filamentosa 

Adam's Needle 



B. Fragrant Leaves. This is a small but very interesting 
group of plants. Most produce an attractive odour from the leaves 
either growing on the plant, or dried and crushed. 



a. Trees and shrubs: 

Benzoin aestivale 

Spice Bush 
Buxus 

Boxwood 
Comptonia asplenijolia 
I, Sweet Fern 



Rhus canadensis 

Fragrant Sumac 
Rosa rubiginosa 

Sweet Brier 
Rosa rubiginosa hybrida 

Lord Penzance Hybrid Brier 



b. Perennials: 

Anthemis 

Chamomile 
Artemisia abrotanum 

Southernwood 
Artemisia dracunculus 

Tarragon 
Asperula odorata 

Sweet Woodruff 
Cedronella 

Balm of Gilead 
Dictamn us fraxinella 

Gas Plant 



Lavandula vera 

Lavender 
Monarda didyma 

Bergamot 
Rosmarinus officinalis 

Rosemary 
Salvia officinalis 

Mammoth Sage 
Sanguisorba minor 

Burnet 
Santolina chamaecvparissus 

Lavender Cottun 



Tanacetum 
Tansy 



CHAPTER XXXVIII 
POISONOUS PLANTS 

The increase in the number of country homes that are being built 
on "new land" makes important an understanding of the common 
poisonous plants which are Hkely to occur and which should not be 
collected for use in planting, but should rather be removed if they are 
so situated as to prove dangerous to people, or where they may be 
browsed by animals. A few of these plants are sold by growers and if 
planted they should be located after some forethought. 

Of those in the first list there are several that are really desirable 
because of their flowers; but all in the second list can easily be dis- 
pensed with. Similar to the poison ivy or poison oak is the woodbine 
or Virginia creeper; but the latter has five leaflets on a stem while the 
objectionable vine has three. There are several desirable species of 
sumac in addition to the poisonous kind. The species to be avoided 
can be recognized by its growing in swamps, and it is rarely found in 
ground at all well drained. It and the poison ivy alike are distin- 
guished by their white fruits. The first plant in List B, however, 
primula obconica, the hairy primrose, popular as a house plant, need 
not be discarded if any person who is susceptible to contact poisons 
will rinse his hands in alcohol and then wash with soap and water 
after handling this plant. 

Where animals may browse, the planter should not place any 
form of the kalmia or laurel. This is the only desirable plant in List A 
of considerable range that grazing animals are apt to feed upon. In 
the west, particularly Wyoming, many sheep are killed by eating the 
woody aster or the death camas. The darnel poisons men, dogs, 
horses, and sheep, but does not harm cows, pigs, and ducks. 

Of those in the first group, the mushroom is the only one that is 
likely to be eaten by a human being. The more dangerous species of 
it is the amanita phalloides or "deadly amanita," for it is widely 
distributed in woods and meadows and for the phallin that it con- 

378 



POISONOUS PLANTS 



279 



tains no antidote is known. It is all the more to be guarded against 
in its pure white form, resembling the lepiotce or edible mushrooms, 
but, as a rule, the upper surface of the cap is grayish, brownish or 
greenish. (The different edible mushrooms additional to the white 
variety as referred to above have caps that are slaty gray, reddish 
brown, or brownish yellow.) 

In general, it might be remarked that there is risk in taking into the 
system any part of a plant the properties of which are not known. 
The leaves of the wild black cherry, for example, are quite poisonous, 
especially when dried, and the seeds of the Jamestown weed are more 
deadly than the rest of the plant; but the physician may make proper 
use of belladonna, strychnine, and aconite. 



LIST OF POISONOUS PLANTS 

Poisonous plants may be divided into two groups : A. Plants which 
if taken internally either cause irritation or poison the blood. B. 
Skin irritants. The majority of the plants in the first group are more 
harmful to farm animals than to human beings. In the second 
group the reverse is true. 



A. Internally Poisonous: 



Aconitum napellus 
Monkshood 




Helleborus niger 
Christmas Rose 


Amanita muscaria 

Mushroom 
Amanita phalloides 

Mushroom 




Kalmia angustifolia 
Sheep Laurel 

Kalmia latifolia 
Mountain Laurel 


Arisaema triphyllum 
Jack-in-the-pulpit 




Lolium temulentum 
Darnel 


Atropa belladonna 
Deadly Night-shad 


e 


Oxytropus lamhertini 
Slender Loco-weed 


Circuta maculata 
Cowbane 




Passiflora incarnata 
Passion Flower 


Conium maculatum 
Poison Hemlock 




Prunus seroiiiia (leaves) 
Wild Black Cherry 


Datura stramonium 
Jamestown Weed 




Veratrum viride 
Green Hellebore 


Delphinium geyi 
Larkspur 


Zygadenus intermedi. 
Death Camas 


Xylorrhiza parryi 
Woody Aster 

us 



28o THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

B. Skin Irritants: 

Primula obconica Rhus toxicodendron 

Hairy Primula Poison Oak 

Rhus radicans Rhus vernix 

Poison Ivy Poison Sumac 

Stipa sparUa (skin irritant for animals only) 
Porcupine Grass 

C. Causing Hay Fever. East of the looth meridian in the 
United States ninety per cent, of the cases of hay fever are caused by 
the common ragweed {Ambrosia elatior) while in the Rocky Mountain 
and Pacific states the sage brush [Artemisia) replaces the ragweed as 
the most common haj- fever weed. The so-called "rose fever" from 
which many people suffer each year is not caused by roses at all 
but by pollen from several different grasses. There are a number of 
commonly planted ornamental plants which possess hay-fever produc- 
ing characteristics, as follows: 

1. The flowers must be wind pollinated. 

2. The flowers must be very numerous. 

3. The flowers are generally unscented and not conspicuously 
coloured. 

Some plants, like the goldenrods (Solidago), when used in large 
quantities in a room may prove irritant, but the pollen is not wind 
borne and thus it is not a true hay-fever plant. Dandelions have 
been known to cause irritation when children press the flowers too 
closely to their nostrils; but the dandelion is not a true hay-fever plant. 
The list of plants given below has been divided into two parts: (a) 
those plants which are active hay-fever producers, and (b) those which 
are mild. None of these plants should be used about hospitals, nor 
where hay-fever sufferers are likely to come in contact with them. 

a. Active: 



Artemisia frigida 

Wormwood Sage 
Aster ericoides 

White Heath Aster 
Aster novae-angliae 

Hardy Garden Aster 
Carya ovata 

Hickory 
Centaurea cyanus 

Old-fashioned Cornflower 



Chrysanthemum leucanthemum 

Ox-eye Daisy 
Dianthus chinensis 

Chinese Pink 
Miscanthus compactus 

Plume Grass 
Eupatorium sessifolium 

Upland Grass 
Helianthus angusiifolius 

Hardy Sun-flower 



POISONOUS PLANTS 



281 



Ipomoea purpurea 

Common Morning Glory 
Iva ciliata 

Marsh Elder 
Juglans nigra 

Black Walnut 
Juniperus virginiana 

Red Cedar 
Poa annua. 

Annual Meadow Grass 



Populus dehoides 

Southern Cottonwood 
Quercus nigra 

Water Oak 
Solidago canadinsis 

Goldenrod 
Spiraea vanhouttei 

Van Houtte's Bridal Wreath 
Vernonia noveboracencis 

Ironweed 



b. Mild: 



Acer Tuhrum 

Red Maple 
Acer rubrum drummondi 

Drummond's Maple 



Salix nigra 
Black Willow 



Lonicera flava 

Yellow Honeysuckle 
Rhus typhina 

Staghorn Sumac 



CHAPTER XXXIX 

ORNAMENTAL PLANTS SUBJECT TO DISEASE 
AND INSECT PESTS 

The purpose of the list of plants given below is not to discourage any 
prospective planter, even though the list is a formidable one, nor to 
catalogue all the ornamental plants which may be affected by insects 
or disease. It should be remembered that ornamental plants, like 
animals, are much less subject to disease, and less likely to be harmed 
also when in good condition. Thus the average person who grows 
ornamental plants will, if he keeps them from being damaged by 
mechanical factors such as wounds, lack of food and water, poor soil 
aeration, and so on, not need to worry very much as to whether they will 
succumb easily to disease or insect attacks. 

The true diseases of plants are either physiological, such as tip burn, 
due to over-transpiration of water during a hot wind, or parasitic. 
The parasitic diseases either kill by the secretion of toxins and enzymes 
which destroy plant tissues, or these toxins and enzymes cause ex- 
cessive tissue growth or diversion of food substances of the plant to the 
use of the parasite. When the plant tissue is killed a rot, blight, or leaf 
spot appears and when the second effect takes place the result is a gall, 
leaf curl, rust, or smut. The first effect, which results in the immediate 
death of the plant tissue, is of course the most harmful. Anthracnose 
is a disease caused by one definite sort of fungus or parasite. 

While the diseases of plants are not something new, since the his- 
torical writings of the ancients mentioned rusts, cankers, and smuts, 
the study of how to combat them is not only a new but an everchanging 
subject. Accordingly, the reader is urged to consult the latest bul- 
letins of his State Experiment Station or of the U. S. Department of 
Agriculture before embarking very far upon a programme of spraying or 
of otherwise combating these diseases. 

Not all insects which live on or about plants are harmful. Thus 
the honey bees, the "lady-bugs," and many others are beneficial since 
they either pollenate the flowers or eat other harmful insects. The 



ORNAMENTAL PLANTS 283 

types of injurious insects are as follows: plant lice, scales, borers, fruit- 
eating insects, root-feeding insects, and leaf or bud-feeding insects. 
The leaf or bud-feeding insects are the most harmful to the appearance 
of ornamental plants, though borers and scales do a vast amount of 
damage. Plant lice also, during some seasons of the year, spoil the 
appearance of some ornamental plants as well as do damage. 

Much valuable study and thought have been given to the subject 
of eradication of insect pests and the information available on this 
subject is very complete. The spray calendars published by the 
State Experiment Stations should be consulted for details of how to 
keep ornamental plants clean and thrifty. 

LIST OF ORNAMENTAL PLANTS SUBJECT TO DISEASE AND 
INSECT PESTS 

Not all trees are equally seriously affected by insect pests and in the 
list below where a long list of insects and diseases are given after a plant 
name it does not signify that all those insects and diseases commonly 
occur, but merely that they are known to occur on one or more species 
of the genus. The list is given merely as a guide showing along what 
lines to look for further information, and it also indicates the sort of 
treatment required as outlined in the chapter on Maintenance, under 
the spraying discussion (See Page 75). 

Considerable study throughout New York and Ohio in regard 
to the immunity of trees from insect injury points to the following con- 
clusions: The arborvitae, tree of heaven, and the ginkgo are practi- 
cally immune from injurious insects. The American and Oriental 
planes, the red and scarlet oaks, and the tulip tree and junipers are 
occasionally attacked. The red, Norway, sugar, and sycamore maples, 
the white and bur oaks, the honey locust, catalpa, the birches, the 
spruces, and the white pine have each one serious insect pest. Among 
the trees very likely to be attacked by insects are the European and 
American lindens, the American and the water or red elms, the soft 
maple, the horse-chestnut and buckeyes, and the hackberry. The 
European and Scotch elms and the willows are very seriously injured 
by insects, while the yellow locusts and poplars and cottonwoods are so 
seriously injured as to make it doubtful whether they should ever be 
used in ornamental planting. 

In the following alphabetical list of plants all the defoliating larval 
forms of insects are classed as caterpillars for the sake of brevity, and 



284 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

because they are all treated in the same way when spraying is re- 
sorted to; namely, by a poison or a contact insecticide. 

Aider (powdery mildew, borers, leaf roller, caterpillars, maple scale). 

Apple (canker, aphids, caterpillars, scales, and bark louse). 

Arborvitae (bagworm). 

Ash (trunk rot, canker, leaf spot, borer, caterpillars, and scales). 

Aster (wilt and blister beetle). 

Azalea (leaf spot and caterpillar). 

Barberry (rust, plant louse, and caterpillar). 

Bayberry (caterpillar). 

Beech (leaf diseases, anthracnose, mildew on leaves, maple scale, and caterpillars). 

Birch (anthracnose, heart rot, canker, borer, and caterpillars). 

Bitter-sweet, (evonymus scale). 

Box Elder (canker, scales, and caterpillars). 

Boston Ivy (caterpillars). 

Buckeye (scales, bark louse, and caterpillars). 

Catalpa (leaf blight, powdery mildew, and caterpillars). 

Cherry (black knot, scales, aphis, leaf spot, mildew, and caterpillars). 

Chestnut (anthracnose, bark disease, weevil, and caterpillars). 

Chrysanthemum (leaf spot). 

Columbine (borers). 

Daphne (magnolia scale). 

Dogwood (San Jose scale, oyster shell scale, dogwood scale, and bark louse). 

Elm (leaf diseases, leaf beetle, canker, scale, leaf gall, and caterpillars). 

Englemann's spruce (red spider). 

English Ivy (leaf blight). 

Evonymus (evonymus scale, and cottony maple scale). 

Fir (saw fly, timber beetle, borer, and caterpillars). 

Hackberry (scale and caterpillars). 

Hazel (caterpillars). 

Hickory (leaf spot, borers, shuck worm, tussock moth . caterpillar, bark beetle, and 

canker worm). 
Hollyhock (anthracnose and rust). 
Hornbeam (caterpillars). 

Horse-chestnut (leaf blight, rust, tussock moth, bag worm, scales, and bark lice). 
Hydrangea (leaf blight and rust). 
Iris (bulb spot, root rot, and leaf blight). 
Juniper (cedar rust, red spider, and caterpillars). 
Larch (canker, saw fly, and tussock moth). 

Lilac (powdery mildew, San Jose scale, bark lice, and caterpillars). 
Linden (borers, leaf beetle, caterpillars, scale, and red spider). 
Locust (heart rot, borers, leaf beetle, maple scale, and caterpillars). 
Magnolia (magnolia scale). 

Maple (anthracnose, tip burn, sun scald, borers, caterpillars, scale, and twig pruner). 
Mulberry (bacterial disease, cottony maple scale). 



ORNAMENTAL PLANTS 285 

Narcissus (aphids and eel worms). 

Oak (anthracnose, caterpillars, powdery mildew, scale, leaf beetle, and twig pruner). 

Osage Orange (scale, bark louse, and caterpillar). 

Peach (scales, caterpillars, and borers). 

Peony (stem rot and leaf spot). 

Phlox (leaf spot fungus and powdery mildew). 

Pine (rust, leaf spot, leaf scale, bark louse, saw fly, and weevil). 

Poplar (anthracnose, rust, leaf beetle, scales, bark louse, borers, and caterpillars.) 

Privet (anthracnose, twig blight, and webworm). 

Quince (anthracnose, black rot, and San Jose scale). 

Red-bud (caterpillars). 

Rhododendron (lace-wing fly and borers). 

Rose (anthracnose, mildew, crown gall, nematodes, slugs, scales, and thrips). 

Shad-bush (red spider). 

Snapdragon (anthracnose, stem rot, and wilt). 

Snowball Bush viburnum (aphids). 

Solomon's Seal (leaf fungus). ^ 

Sour Gum (caterpillars). 

Spice Bush (scale and caterpillars). 

Spruce (leaf spot, red spider, bug worm, caterpillars, and weevil). 

Sumac (canker, scale, and caterpillars). 

Sweet Gum (bagworm and other caterpillars). 

Sycamore (anthracnose, powdery mildew, leaf folders, caterpillars, and scales). 

Thorn (caterpillars, scales, plant lice, aphids, and leaf beetle). 

Tree of Heaven (rose scale). 

Tulip Tree (scale and caterpillars). 

Verbena (mildew). 

Veronica (leaf diseases). 

Viburnum (see Snowball Bush). 

Violet (nematodes and leaf spot). 

Virginia Creeper (leaf spot, caterpillars, and scales). 

Walnut (anthracnose, mildew, canker worms, caterpillars, and scales). 

Willow (caterpillars, leaf beetles, borers, and bark louse). 

Wisteria (leaf beetle). 

Witch Hazel (caterpillars). 

Yucca (caterpillars and grubs.) 



CHAPTER XL 

PLANTS DIFFICULT TO TRANSPLANT AND THOSE 

ADAPTED FOR TRANSPLANTING AT SPECIFIC 

SEASONS OF THE YEAR 

The fact is well appreciated that of all our great range of material 
used in landscape plantings there are a certain number of these species 
and varieties which are better adapted to being transplanted at some 
specific season, either during the spring or during the fall. It is gener- 
ally safe to assume that plants such as the poplars, willows, and the rose 
of Sharon, the wood of which is late in ripening, should preferably be 
transplanted in the spring. If these types are transplanted in the fall, 
they are, during a normal severe winter, subjected to a considerable 
winter-killing, and must be severely cut back in the early spring; 
whereas, if planted in the spring they almost invariably continue to 
grow and require little or no cutting back. 

The group of perennials which should not be transplanted in the 
spring consists mostly of those plants which begin their growth at 
the first sign of spring, and before the ground is really in fit condi- 
tion to "work." These plants, by the time the ground is warm and 
dry enough to permit transplanting in friable soil, have developed 
so much growth of roots or of both roots and top, that unless they can 
be immediately moved without any period of delay from their existing 
location to a new location they should by all means be transplanted 
during the fall. If such plants are transplanted in the spring the usual 
result is a check to growth and exceptionally weak development of 
flowers and of foliage during that season. The fall transplanting of 
perennials ought to be done, especially with these early spring-flowering 
types, during September rather than during the latter part of October 
and November, when the ground is cold and growth is completely 
stopped. Transplanting earlier in the fall enables the plants to start 
some root growth and thus to establish themselves to better withstand 
the winter conditions, especially in the soils containing more or less 
clay. Especially should the peony, for any degree of success, be trans- 

286 



TRANSPLANTING 287 

planted in the fall. The iris is peculiar and can be successfully trans- 
planted at any time when the ground is not frozen. The best time is 
believed to be immediately after flowering. 

Plants which are not vigorous in their habit of root growth and which 
are very susceptible to abnormal conditions of freezmg and thawing, 
or to excessive moisture in the soil during the winter months, should 
not be transplanted in the autumn. The most important illustra- 
tions of this type of plants are the beech, the flowering dogwood, and 
some of the less hardy types of evergreens, such as the arborvitae and 
the pea-fruited cypress. Many good plantsmen are of the opinion that 
rhododendrons and azaleas should be planted during the spring months. 
As is the case with the refined types of evergreens, there is usually less 
loss from spring planting of this material than from fall planting. 
The question of period of transplanting in connection with rhododen- 
drons and with evergreens has been discussed under the chapter on 
Planting and Transplanting (Page 49). 

While it is desirable in the transplanting of evergreens and of 
rhododendrons in particular to move them at a time when they are 
just ready to begin growth, in order to prevent them from standing in a 
"cold soil," it is, on the other hand, necessary to transplant such 
trees as the beech and the birch when they are absolutely dormant. 
If they have shown the least signs of growth through the swelling of the 
buds, the operation of transplanting becomes more difficult, and yet to 
transplant such material in the fall and to permit it to stand through 
the winter, especially in a heavy soil, subjects it to the possibility of 
considerable loss. There is a well-defined group of perennials, typical 
of which are the chrysanthemum and the Japanese anemone, which 
can seldom be transplanted with any success during the fall season. 
The reason for this is that the plant produces flowers at such a late 
period in the growing season that further root action necessary to 
establish the plant in a new location and successfully carry it through 
the winter is not encouraged. 

Group C includes plants divided into two sub-groups, a those 
which transplant with difficulty and should rarely if ever be trans- 
planted, but grown in their permanent location from seed, cuttings, 
or very small seedlings, and h those which after being transplanted 
recover very slowly. All of the plants in the first group are the ex- 
tremely slow-growing types, such as the walnut, the butternut, the 
ironwood, and the sweet fern. Those typical of the second groups are 



288 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

the Japanese snowball, the rose of Sharon, boxwood, nursery-grown 
beech trees, and sweet gum. The author does not intend to convey the 
impression that any of the plants in either of these groups, especially 
the first group, cannot be transplanted with success by those who are 
in a position to know the plants intimately, and to take thorough pre- 
cautions against any possible injury through transplanting. For the 
person who is not an expert plantsman and who does not thoroughly 
understand all of the conditions necessary for the successful trans- 
planting of the extremely slow-growing types of trees and shrubs the 
plants in the first group should be avoided, and extreme care should be 
given to the work of transplanting any of the trees or shrubs mcluded 
in the second group. 

Most of the plants included in the second group should be trans- 
planted for best success during the spring months. Their habit 
of slow growth and inability to adapt themselves readih' to new con- 
ditions of soil make them very liable to injury on account of drowning- 
out because of excessive depth of planting, or injury from winter 
conditions. All of these types are apt to be extremely unsatisfactory 
during the first two years after transplanting, but when once they have 
recovered from the shock of transplanting they will grow wonderfully 
well. 

LIST OF PLANTS ADAPTED FOR TRANSPLANTING AT 
SPECIFIC SEASONS OF THE YEAR 

Under excellent care, good results may be attained by transplanting 
all plants during the fall planting season, or during the spring planting 
season. For the best results, however, it is advisable to plant some 
types during the fall planting season and other types during the spring 
planting season. The two groups A and B contain plants specifi- 
cally adapted for planting; some in the fall and some in the spring. 
Group C contains a list of plants which transplant with extreme 
difficulty, and can be transplanted with better success during the spring 
months with the exception of the trailing arbutus listed in Group C-a. 
This plant is extremely difficult to transplant with any success at any 
season. Those who have had considerable experience with the trailing 
arbutus are of the general opinion that if it is taken up during the 
month of July and moved with a goodly amount of soil about its roots 
together with some additional soil in which to plant it in the new loca- 
tion, some success may be assured. Special care should be taken 



TRANSPLANTING 



289 



immediately after this plant is transplanted to give it a mulch of some 
light texture such as partially decayed oak leaves in order to provide 
a satisfactory fertilizer and to prevent excessive evaporation from the 
soil which surrounds the roots. 



A. Plants Which Should Be Transplanted in Autumn: 



Anemone pennsyhanica 

Canadian Windflower 
Aquilegia (in variety) 

Columbine 
Dicentra spectabilis 

Bleeding-heart 
Doronicum plantagineum excelsum 

Leopard's Bane 
Hepatica triloba 

Hepatica 
Iris (in variety) 

Iris (See Page 90 



Lilium (not stem-rooting) 

Lily 
Paeonia 

Peony 
Phlox divaricata 

Wild Sweet William 
Primula (in variety) 

Primrose 
Sanguinaria canadensis 

Blood root 
Trillium (in variety) 

Wake Robin 



Trollius europaeus 
Globe-flower 



B. Plants Which Should Be Transplanted in Spring: 



Acer rubrum 

Red Maple 
Acer saccharinum 

Silver Maple 
Anemone japonica 

Japanese Windflower 
Azalea (in variety) 

Azalea 
Benzoin aestivale 

Spice Bush 
Betula (in variety) 

Birch 
Buddleia veiichiana 

Summer Lilac 
Calycanthus ftoridus 

Strawberry Shrub 
Chrysanthemum (in variety) 

Chrysanthemum 
Colutea arborescens 

Bladder Senna 
Cornus florida 

Flowering Dogwood 
Cotoneaster horizontalis 

Prostrate Cotoneaster 
Crataegus (in variety) 

Thorn 



Ericaceous plants of 
all sorts 

Fagus syhatica 

European Beech 
Hedera helix 

English Ivy 
Hibiscus syriacus 

Rose of Sharon 
Kalmia (in variety" 

Laurel 
Kerria japonica 

Globe-flower 
Liquidambar styraciflua 

Sweet Gum 
Liriodendron tulipifera 

Tulip Tree 
Magnolia (in variety) 

Magnolia 
Morus rubra 

Red Mulberry 
Pieris (in variety) 

Fetterbush 
Populus (in variety) 

Poplar 
Rhododendron (in variety) 

Rhododendron 



290 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

Rhus canadensis Taxus (in variety) 

Fragrant Sumac Yew 

Rosa rugosa Ulmus americana 

Japanese Rose American Elm 

Stephanandra flexuosa Fihurnum plicatum 

Stephanandra Japanese Snowball , 

Tamarix gallica Vitex agnus-castus 

French Tamarisk Chaste Tree 

C. Plants Which Are Transplanted with Little Success: 

a. Plants to be rarely if ever transplanted. Some plants, especially if 
collected from the wild, seldom survive the shock of transplanting. 
Some plants, like the beeches, must be entirely dormant if they are to 
be moved successfully. The letter (c) after a name indicates that 
collected plants move with little or no success; but nursery-grown 
plants move with fair success. 

Anemone nemorosa Juglans nigra 

White Wood Anemone Black Walnut 

Betula (in variety) (c) Juniperus sabina (c) 

Birch Savin Juniper 

Carpinus caroliniana Larix laricina 

American Hornbeam Tamarack 

Comptonia asplenifolia (c) Myrica carolinensis (c) 

Sweet Fern Bayberry 

Epigaea repens Nyssa sylvalica 

Trailing Arbutus Tupelo 

Fagus americana (c) Ostrya virginiana 

American Beech Hop Hornbeam 

Carya (in variety) Taxus canadensis (c) 

Hickory Ground Yew 

Juglans cinerea Tsuga canadensis (c) 

Butternut Canadian Hemlock 

Vaccinium vacillans (c) 

Low Blueberry 

h. Plants which recover slowly from the operation of transplanting. 
Some fine species of ornamental plants never recover quickly from 
the effects of being transplanted. No matter how carefully this 
work may be carried out there is sure to be a considerable period 
following when the plant is disappointing in appearance and when it 
requires careful maintenance if future growth is to fulfill the expec- 
tation of the planter. 

Abelia grandiflora Betula (in variety) 

Hybrid Abelia Birch 

Acer palmatum Buxus sempervirens 

Japanese Maple Tree Box 



TRANSPLANTING 



2gi 



Calluna vulgaris 

Scotch Heather 
Carpinus betulus 

European Hornbeam 
Cercis canadensis 

Red-bud 
Cornus florida 

Flowering Dogwood 
Crataegus (in variety) 

Thorn 
Fagus sylvatica 

European Beech 
Hibiscus syriacus 

Rose of Sharon 
Ilex glabra 

Inkberry 
Ilex opaca 

American Holly 



Kalmia laiifolia 

Mountain Laurel 
Liquidambar styraciflua 

Sweet Gum 
Liriodendron tulipifera 

Tulip Tree 
Mahonia aquifolium 

Oregon Grape 
Pyrus (in variety) 

Crab 
Quercus rubra 

Red Oak 
Rhamnus cathartica 

Common Buckthorn 
Syringa vulgaris (in variety) 

Common Lilac 
Viburnum tomentosum plicatum 

Japanese Snowball 



CHAPTER XLI 
SHRUBS FOR FORCING IN WATER IN EARLY SPRING 

Before winter has gone and the warm days of early spring cause 
our early-flowering shrubs to mature some very interesting flowers 
may be developed indoors on twigs of such plants. These flowers, 
the harbingers of spring, may be developed almost as well indoors as 
out of doors at a later date on the plants. The reason for such normal 
development under abnormal conditions is that the flowers, complete 
in miniature form, lie within the existing flower buds ready to burst 
forth when given suflScient heat and moisture. 

When forcing cut stems of hard wooded ornamental plants in 
water in winter or early spring, the best results are secured by following 
a few simple rules. When flowers are desired, select branches of plants 
which produce flowers from buds formed the previous year. Other- 
wise, only leaves will result, which of course are sometimes desirable 
as an addition to the flowers of other sorts. Since all the flowers and 
leaves which will appear must come from buds already upon the twigs 
and branches be careful to cut only branches containing plump, full 
buds, especially when flowers are desired. It is possible to cut these 
branches at any time from February to April. After cutting the 
branches care must be taken to keep them from drying out and it is 
often well worth while to soak the whole twigs for a few hours in warm 
water, both before starting to force them and occasionally afterward at 
intervals of a week. This will loosen the bud scales, soften the whole 
fibre of the twig, and remove dust, thus taking the place of spring 
showers. The twigs should be from twelve to thirty inches long and 
placed in fairly large receptacles with plenty of water. The water 
should be changed every second or third day and should have small 
pieces of charcoal added in order to help keep it sweet. Each two or 
three days it is advisable to make fresh cuts at the bottom ends of the 
twigs and it is often worth while to wash the cut ends in mild soap and 
water to prevent sliminess. 

The forsythias or golden bells are the easiest and most successful 

292 



SHRUBS FOR FORCING IN WATER 



293 



plants for forcing in water. All sorts of currants are likely to be 
successful, even including the common black currant of our gardens. 
The dogwoods, especially the cornelian cherry, should not be over- 
looked. The fruit trees, such as apples, plums, cherries, and pears, 
may all be forced though they respond slowly and require several 
weeks' time and much patience. The lilacs do not seem to respond 
easily to forcing in water, nor do the magnolias. There are many 
common sorts of shrubs, some of which are listed below, which will 
provide flowers or catkins. 

In general, those woody plants which flower first in the spring are 
the ones easiest to force in water. Those which require a longer period 
to develop flowers from the buds are not forced successfully. 

LIST OF SHRUBS FOR FORCING IN WATER IN EARLY 

SPRING 

Generally speaking, flowers of all early-blooming shrubs, flowering 
upon wood of previous season, can be forced. The branches may be 
cut any time after January; but the best results are obtained when 
the branches are cut after the sap begins to run. Place the branches 
in water and spray tops several times daily to force bloom. 



Amelanchier (white and pink) 

Shad-bush 
Caragana frutescens (yellow) 

Siberian Pea Shrub 
Cercis canadensis (pink) 

Red-bud 
Chaenomeles japonica (pink and red) 

Japanese Quince 
Colulea arborescens (light yellow) 

Bladder Senna 
Cornus mas (light yellow) 

Cornelian Cherry 
Corylus americana (brown) 

Hazelnut 
Deutzia gracilis (white) 

Slender Deutzia 
Forsythia (all sorts) (yellow) 

Golden Bell 



Kerria japonica (yellow) 

Globe-flower 
Lonicera fragrantissima (pink and white) 

Early Fragrant Honeysuckle 
Philadelphus (all sorts) (white) 

Mock Orange 
Prunus cerasus (pink) 

Flowering Cherry 
Prunus triloba (pink) 

Flowering Plum 
Pyrus halliana parkmani 

Parkman's Crab 
Ribes aureum (yellow) 

Flowering Currant 
Salix caprea (grey) 

Goat Willow 
Spiraea argula (very fine) (white) 
' Hybrid Snow Garland 



CHAPTER XLII 
PRUNING REQUIREMENTS 

The question of the necessary pruning required by various trees and 
shrubs is a natural one. Many persons are under the impression that 
every tree and shrub requires a certain amount of pruning each year. 
Many are under the further impression that all of this pruning should 
be done in the winter and spring, while others are under the impres- 
sion that it should be done during the summer or fall. 

The most important fact to be known in connection with the opera- 
tion of pruning is that one should be thoroughly familiar with the 
flowering characteristics of the plants to be pruned. Our lawn shrubs 
especially, which are often subject to the most indiscriminate kinds of 
pruning, comprise a group of plants with which this chapter is con- 
cerned. Pruning is done for various purposes, as outlined and dis- 
cussed in the chapter on Pruning. The question under discussion in 
this chapter is whether or not all shrubs shall be pruned at a definite 
season of the year, and if not, what are the special reasons why this 
standard method of procedure should not be adopted. 

As referred to in the foregoing paragraph, before any pruning of 
shrubs is attempted it is essential to recognize their flowering habits. 
The operation of pruning necessarily involves the removal not only of 
dead wood but of much wood which is alive and growmg; wood which 
produces flowers and, subsequently, fruit. The spring and early 
summer-blooming trees and shrubs produce flowers from buds which 
are formed upon the wood during the previous growing season. These 
embryo flowers contained within the buds have existed in the bud form 
since the wood of the previous season had begun to ripen, and they are 
protected by the scales or outer covering of the bud until such time 
as the temperature has been sufficient to encourage their gro-^vth. It 
is therefore clear that any pruning which is done upon such plants 
during the late winter or early spring months, prior to the time when 
these plants have produced their flowers, is an operation whereby a 
greater or less quantity of flowers is deliberately removed from the plant. 

294 




Plate XLVI. Many of our common garden perennials possess the possibil- 
ities to produce very interesting colour effects through the colour combination of 
the flowers. (A) Italian alkanet; (B) hardy marguerite. (See page 231) 



PRUNING REQUIREMENTS 295 

An ornamental plant is rarely over-supplied with flowers. It therefore 
behooves us to preserve, so far as possible, all of the buds which pro- 
duce flowers. Practically all of the growth of new wood on these plants, 
which adds to the increasing size of the plant, develops after the plant 
has completed its flowering period. Buds containing the flowers for 
the succeeding year are often developed on wood which is formed after 
the plant has matured its flowers. Therefore, pruning on plants of 
this kind, such as the mock orange, high-bush cranberry, snowball, 
and Van Houtte's spirea, should be done immediately after the flowers 
have matured, to stimulate a correct kind of new growth on which 
may be developed flower buds for the ne.xt season. One of the most 
common faults in connection with the pruning of trees and shrubs is 
that of applying the same principles of pruning to all kinds of shrubs 
regardless of whether they are early spring-flowering or late summer- 
flowering, and in so doing to deprive the plant of much of its beauty 
and attractiveness exhibited through its mass of flowers. In such 
shrubs, of the spring and early summer-flowering types, which produce 
flowers from buds on the growth of the previous year, pruning, to 
produce the maximum of new growth for increasing the quantity of 
flowers during the succeeding year, should never be delayed more than 
two weeks beyond the time when the plant has matured its flowers. 

On the other hand, there is a group of shrubs of which the best 
examples are the rose of Sharon, butterfly bush, hydrangea, and snow- 
berry, which are of the late summer and fall-blooming types, and 
on which the flower-producing buds are formed on the same season's 
growth. To produce the maximum of flowers on such shrubs it is 
necessary that they should be pruned during the late winter and early 
spring months before growth for that season has commenced. In this 
way much of the old wood is removed, and a greater quantity of new 
wood, with its accompanying flower buds, is encouraged. If a general 
rule is to be applied to all trees and shrubs it would be much prefer- 
able to give them a so-called summer pruning, which means that the 
operation of pruning should be delayed until shortly after the shrubs 
have completed their flowering. 

In connection with this discussion it should be borne in mind that 
there are also some trees and shrubs such as the flowering dogwood, 
Judas tree, and lilac, which are not so much benefited by annual 
pruning, and which should be pruned only by the most capable of 
experts. 



tgS 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



There is a group of plants which practically require only the removal 
of dead wood and superfluous growth. These trees and shrubs are apt 
to be more or less injured by the operation of pruning. They normally 
are comparatively slow growing. They have a tendency to grow in- 
formally and to maintain the normal shape of the plant as they con- 
tinue to increase in size. The operation of pruning does not encourage 
a sufllicient new growth and oftentimes so changes the physiological con- 
dition of the plant that the flowering ability is impaired to a marked 
degree during the succeeding one or two years. 

From the foregoing discussions it is evident that the operation of 
pruning, as applied to the questions of just what shrubs to prune in 
spring and what shrubs to prune in summer, and what shrubs should 
never or rarely be pruned, is an important one. It is not an operation 
the decision for doing which should be placed in the hands of any but 
those who are skilled in the art and those who are thoroughly familiar 
with the reasons pro and con. 



PRUNING LISTS 

Shrubs Needing Complete Pruning: 



Spring and early summer-flowering: 

Benzoin aestivale 

Spice Bush 
Berberis thunbergi 

Thunberg's Japanese Barberry 
Cephalanthus occidentalis 

Button Bush 
Cercis canadensis 

Red-bud 
Chionanthus virginica 

White Fringe 
Cornus (in variety) 

Dogwood 
Cotoneaster (in variety) 

Cotoneaster 
Deutzia (in variety) 

Deutzia 
Diervilla hybrida 

Hybrid Weigela 
Dirca palustris 

Leather-wood 
Eleagnus angustifolia 

Russian Olive 
Evonymus (in variety) 

Burning Bush 



Forsythia (in variety) 

Golden Bell 
Hamamelis virginiana 

Witch Hazel 
Hippophae rhamnoides 

Sea Buckthorn 
Hydrangea arborescens 

Wild Hydrangea 
Kerria japonica 

Globe-flower 
Ligustrum (in variety) 

Privet 
Lonicera (in variety) 

Honeysuckle 
Philadelphus (in variety) 

Mock Orange 
Physocarpns opulifolius 

Ninebark 
Rhamnus cathartica 

Common Buckthorn 
Rhodotypos kerrioides 

White Kerria 
Robinia hispida 

Rose Acacia 



PRUNING REQUIREMENTS 



297 



Samhucus canadensis 

American Elder 
Spiraea arguta 

Hybrid Snow Garland 
Spiraea billardi 

Billard's Spirea 
Spiraea prunifolia 

Bridal Wreath 



Spiraea tomentosa 

Hardback 
Spiraea vanhoutiei 

Van Houtte's Bridal Wreath 
Stephanandra flexUosa 

Stephanandra 
Syringa (in variety) 

Lilac 
Vihurnum (in variety) 
Viburnum 



b. Late summer and fall-flowering: 

Amorpha fruticosa 

False Indigo 
Buddleia davidi (Cut back in spring to 
prevent danger of rotting) 

Sweet-scented Buddleia 
Ceanothus americanus 

New Jersey Tea 
Clethra alnifolia 

Sweet Pepper Bush 
Hibiscus syriacus 

Rose of Sharon 



Hydrangea (in variety) 

Hydrangea 
Sorbaria arborea 

Chinese Mountain Ash Spirea 
Spiraea douglasi 

Douglas' Spirea 
Symphoricarpos racemosus 

Snowberry 
Fitex incisa 
^ Cut-leaved Hemp-tree 



B. Shrubs Needing Removal of Old Wood Only: 

a. Summer pruning: 



Caragana 

Pea Shrub 
Daphne 

Deciduous Daphne 
Halesia 

Silver Bell 
Koelreuteria 

Varnish Tree 
Laburnum vulgare 

Golden Chain 
Lonicera tatarica 

Tartarian Honeysuckle 



Magnolia 

Magnolia 
Mahonia 

Oregon Grape 
Prunus cerasus 

Flowering Cherry 
Pyracantha 

Evergreen Thorn 
Rhododendron 

Rhododendron 
Staphylea 

Bladder-nut 
Xanthoceras 
Chinese Flowering Chestnut 



h. Winter pruning: 



Aralia 

Angelica Tree 
Artemisia 

Wormwood 
Cladrastis 

Yellow-wood 



Pavia 

Dwarf Horse-chestnut 
Robinia Pseudacacia 

Black Locust 
Yucca 

Adam's Needle 



298 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

C. Trees Which Require Little or No Pruning: 



Aesculus 

Horse-chestnut 

Catalpa 

Indian Bean 
Liriodendron 

Tulip Tree 



Sorbus 
Mountain Ash 



Paulownia 
Empress Tree 

Robinia 

Locust 
Sophora 

Pagoda Tree 



D. Evergreens That Should Be Pruned in May or June: 



Abies 
Fir 



Picea 
Spruce 



Pinus 
Pine 



E. Evergreens That May Be Pruned at Any Time: 



Chamaecyparis 

Cypress 
Juniperus 

Juniper 



Taxus 

Yew 
Thuja 

Arborvitae 



CHAPTER XLIir 
PLANTS FOR FLORIDA 

The following compilation covers information concerning plants used 
for different landscape purposes in the Florida zones. Some of these 
plants are followed by the letter (T) which indicates that such material 
is tropical and is not adapted to the middle-south and northern por- 
tion of this state. 

This list is subject to considerable modification as further study of 
these plants brings more complete information concerning their adapta- 
tions and uses. 

The subject of Florida horticulture, especially from the landscape 
viewpoint, concerning the use and adaptations of plant materials, is 
yet in its infancy. Very few men have given any serious thought to 
this subject; at least very little information is now in printed form and 
available to those interested in this work. 

Florida is fast developing into one of the great winter playgrounds 
and home sections for many northern people who wish to escape the 
undesirable winter conditions. These people enter the state with the 
intention of developing homes and with every desire to beautify them, 
as is customary in connection with northern homes. A great dis- 
appointment is encountered as soon as they endeavour to consult in- 
formation which will tend to assist them in the landscape development 
of their property. This list will be of some value to those persons 
and to many others who are interested in the use of landscape ma- 
terials throughout this section of the south. 

In selecting material for various types of Florida plantings two 
things must be taken definitely into consideration: Material should 
be selected which is of real value during the summer months in Florida, 
and also material must often be selected which is of distinct value 
during the winter months. The plants included in this list have been 
selected for their general value throughout the year and more 
particularly during the winter months. In view of this it is es- 
sential that this material should be interesting because of its 

299 



300 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

foliage or its flowers during the months from November to the first 
of April. 

There are many northern types of material which can easily be used in 
Florida plantations for its value during the winter months. There are 
many other types of northern material with which experiments should 
be conducted concerning their value for plantations in this climate. 

Many of the plants so familiar to northern plantings can be equally 
well used in plantings of the far south. Privet, golden bell, magnolia, 
and spirea are among this group which have value during the winter 
months. Most of the more hardy-flowering shrubs can be used in 
plantings, but because their period of flowering and of fruiting does not 
come during these winter months (December to April) they have been 
little used. The northern tourist is seeking colour of flowers while 
occupying his winter home in Florida. He also seeks air and sunshine. 
The heavy shade provided by the silk oak and the water oak so much 
desired by Floridians he wishes replaced by warmth of winter sunshine 
and tropical growth of palms which cast but little shade. The familiar 
growth of shrubs carrying the atmosphere of the north must be re- 
placed by shrubs and vines with brilliantly coloured flowers and foliage 
like the croton, oleander, trumpet-vine, Chinese hibiscus, and chenille 
plant. 

The great tendency in Florida plantings has been to develop a 
"spotty" effect at the expense of sacrificing interesting landscape com- 
positions. The "mass" planting of the north is seldom seen. Most 
types of southern plants are perhaps better adapted to specimen plant- 
ing than to mass eff^ects. For eff^ective mass planting around buildings, 
the croton, Chinese hibiscus, and chenille plant are among the best. 

LIST OF PLANTS FOR FLORIDA 

A. Windbreaks. It is often necessary in many locations, espe- 
cially along the water fronts, to plant windbreaks that will preserve 
the more tender types of plants and which will preserve the lighter 
soils against heavy windstorms coming from the direction of the 
prevailing winds. Windbreaks in this section of the country are 
not used for the same purpose that windbreaks are generally used in 
the northern climates where winter protection is the main use. Wind- 
breaks throughout the Florida section are of greatest value against 
erosion of the hghter soils because of prevailing winds and injuries 
to the more tender plants. 



PLANTS FOR FLORIDA 301 

Bambusa argeniea Ctnnamomum catnphnra 

Silver Bamboo ■ Camphor Tree 

Bambusa striata Grevillea robusta (T) 

Striped Bamboo Silk Oak 

Callitris verrucosa Pithecolnbium duke 

Cypress Pine Manila Tamarind 

Casuarina equisetifolia Quercus nigra 

Australian Pine Water Oak 

B. Trees for Street and Specimen Planting: 

a. Northern list: This group of trees covers material which can 
be used throughout northern Florida, southern Georgia, Alabama, and 
over the area which is known as the Coastal Plain. In general, this 
list does not extend into I lorida farther than one hundred miles south 
of Jacksonville. Trees in this group which are marked thus ( + ) are 
also adapted for street tree and specimen planting in the southern por- 
tion of Florida as shown on the accompanying list: 

Acer rubrum Gordonia lasianthus 

Red Maple Loblolly Bay 

Albizzia julibrissin Ilex opaca 

Mimosa American Holly 

Broussonetia papyri/era Liquidambar styraciflua 

Paper Mulberry Sweet Gum 

Cedrus deodar a -{-Magnolia grandiflora 

Deodar Magnolia 

Cedrus libani Melia azedarach umbraculiformis 

Cedar of Lebanon Umbrella Tree 

Celtis occidentalis -{-Quercus laurifolia 

Nettle Tree Laurel Oak 

-\-Cercis canadensis Quercus nigra 

Red-bud Water Oak 

-\-Cornus florida Quercus phellos 

Flowering Dogwood Willow Oak 

Cunninghamia sinensis Quercus virginiana 

Chinese Pine Live Oak 
Ulmus americana 
American Elm 

b. Southern list: This group of trees, together with those which 
are marked thus ( + ) in the previous list, are adapted especially for 
street planting throughout the southern and middle section of Florida. 
Those marked (*) are the more commonly used and perhaps the better 
types for street tree planting. 

Adenanthera pavonina Aleurites triloba 

Circassian Bean Candle-nut 

Albizzia lebbek (T) Araucaria excelsa (T) 

Woman's Tongue Tree Norfolk Island Pine 



302 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



Bauhinia (in variety) (T) 

Mountain Ebony 
Bomhax cfiha 

Silk Cotton Tree 
Callitris robusta 

Cypress Pine 
Calophyllum calaha 

Calaba Tree 
Canangium odoratum 

Ylang-Ylang 
Cassia fistula 

Yellow Cassia 
*Casuarina equisetijolia 

Australian Pine 
Cedrela odorata 

West Indian Cedar 
Cinnamomum camphora 

Camphor Tree 
*Cocos plumosa 

Cocoanut Palm 



Cryptomeria japonica 

Japanese Cedar 
Delonix regia ( T) 

Royal Poinciana 
Fie us nit id a 

Indian Laurel 
Fie us speeies (T) 

Rubber and Fig Trees 
Gordonia lasianthus 

Loblolly Bay 
*GTevillea robusta (T) 

Silk Oak 
Ilex specimens, especially Ilex opaca 

American Holly 
Libocedrus deeurrens 

Incense Cedar 
Mangifera indica 

Mango 
Sabal palmetto 

Cabbage Palmetto 
*JVashingtonia robusta 
California Fan Palm 



C. Vines. The first part of this group consists of those vines which 
are commonly known as scrambling vines and which must be provided 
with a definite support on which they can twine or to which tendrils 
can attach themselves in order to maintain their upright habit of 
growth. Most of the vines which are interesting in the north are 
of great value in Florida planting. There is also an extensive list 
of vines which will not grow in the northern climates, but which are 
valuable in Florida. Those which are marked thus (+) are very in- 
teresting for Florida planting on account of their habit of producing 
flowers during the winter months. The second part of this group is 
composed of vines which can be used for covering bare wall surfaces 
and which will naturally attach themselves to walls of brick, stone, 
or concrete. These vines are of the evergreen type of foliage and are 
of value only for their foliage effect. 



a. Lattices and wire fences: 

Abrus preeatorius 

Crab's Eye Vine 
-\-Allamanda hendersoni (T) 

Henderson's Allamanda 
-{■Allamanda williamsi (T) 

Williams' Allamanda 



Antigonon leptopus 

Mountain Rose 
Ampelopsis quinquefolia 

Virginia Creeper 
Aristoloehia elegans 

Dwarf Dutchman's Pipe 




















ai. 







Plate XL\ II. During the early spring no woodland wild garden is com- 
plete without its quota of trilliums, grape hyacinth, and hepatica which grow 
luxuriantly it happily surrounded by correct conditions of soil and shade. 
(See page 227. group XXXI-C) 




Plate XLX'III. Ainoni; ilmsr plants, which become easily estabhshed in 
tile wild garden, there is none the flower effect of which excels the Japanese 
windflovver during the late summer. (See page 227, group XXXI-C) 



PLANTS FOR FLORIDA 



303 



Beaiimontia grandiflora 

White-flowered Beaumontia 
Bignonia chinensis 

Chinese Trumpet Creeper 
+ Bo ugainvillea braziliensis 

Paper Flower 
-\-Boxigainvillea glabra sanderiana 

Paper Flower 
Cereus triangularis 

Cereus Vine 
Clematis paniculata 

Japanese Clematis 
-\-Clerodendron thompsonae 

Scarlet Clerodendron 
Cobaea scandens (T) 

Cup and Saucer Vine 
-{-Gelsemium sempervirens 

Carolina Jasmine 
Jasminum grandiflorinn 

Catalonian Jasmine 
Lonicera japonica halliana (north) 

Japanese Honeysuckle 
Lonicera sempervirens 

Coral Honeysuckle 
Passiflora incarnata 

Purple Passion Flower 

Vitis capensis 
Evergreen Grape 



Petraea volubilis 

Queen's Wreath 
Pithecoctenium cynanchoides 

Argentine Monkey's Comb 
Porana paniculata 

Snow Creeper 
Pyrostegia venusta 

Flame Flower 
Rosa laevigata 

Cherokee Rose 
Rosa setigera (north only) 

Prairie Rose 
Rosa (climbing hybrids) 

Rose 
Smilax 

Greenbrier 
Solatidra guttata 

Chalice Vine 
Solanum seaforthianum (T) 

Tomatillo 
Solanum wendlandi 

Tomatillo 
Thunbergia (in variety) (T) 

Thunbergia 
Trachelospermum jasminoides 

Confederate Jasmine 



h. Masonry walls: 

Bignonia capreolata 

Cross Flower 
Bignonia radicans 

Trumpet Vine 
Bignonia speciosa 

South American Cross Vine 
Evonymus radicans 

Climbing Evonymus 



Ficus repens 

Creeping Fig 
Ficus villosa 

Large-leaved Creeping Fig 
Hedera helix (north only) 

English Ivy 
Pyrostegia venusta 

Flame Flower 



D. Shrubs with Attractive Fruit. The following is a group 
of shrubs which are of value in Florida plantations because of 
their fruiting characteristics, especially during the winter months. 
Quite different from similar shrubs in northern climates, these 
shrubs fruit much more abundantly and retain their fruit a greater 
length of time in this mild climate than would be the case farther 
north. 



304 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



Ardisia revoluta 

Turkey Fruit 
Baccharis halimifolia 

Groundsel Bush 
Bixa or f Han a 

Arnalto 
Carissa acuminata (T) 

Natal Plum 
Chalcas paniculata 

Orange Jasmine 
Citrus deliciosa 

Kid Glove Orange 
Citrus grandis 

Grape-fruit 
Citrus japonica 

Kumquat 
Citrus sinensis 

Orange 
Clerodendron siphonanthus 

Turk's Turban 
Cotoneaster acuminata 

Rose Box 
Cotoneaster Jrigida 

Rose Box 
Cotoneaster pannosa 

Silver-leaved Rose Box 
Duranta retens 

Golden Dewdrop 



Eleagnus pungens 

Silver Thorn 
Eriobotrya japonica 

Medlar 
Eugenia jambos 

Rose Apple 
Eugenia uniflora 

Surinam Cherry 
Hamelia erecta 

Scarlet Bush 
Ilex cassine 

Dahoon Holly 
Ilex opaca 

American Holly 
Laurocerasus caroliniana 

Wild Orange 
Malpighia coccigera 

Dwarf Barbadoes Cherry 
Mangifera indica 

Mango 
Musa 

Banana 
Punica granatum 

Pomegranate 
Rhodomyrtus tomentosus 

Downy Myrtle 
Tamarindus indica 

Tamarind 



Triphasia trijoliata 
Bergamot Berry 



E. Hedges. For hedge planting there is in Florida a wider range 
of material adapted to such use than is ordinarily found in northern 
types of material. The first group given includes those shrubs which 
make low, compact hedges together with those which develop into a 
larger and looser type of hedge. Those shrubs which are marked (+) 
are valuable for hedge planting because of their flowering and fruiting 
characteristics. The remainder are valuable mostly on account of the 
foliage effect. The second list of material, which is for northern 
Florida, could be greatly enlarged provided it should seem advisable 
to use material which is often used in hedges planted farther north 
and which shed their leaves during the winter months. The group 
includes plants which are practically evergreen or which have some 
value for their fruit or flowers. Practically all of these can be used 
with equal success in middle and southern Florida. 



PLANTS FOR FLORIDA 

a. Middle and southern Florida: 



305 



+Acalypha hispida (T) 

Chenille Plant 
Bambusa disticha 

Bamboo 
-\-Carissa bispinosa (T) 

Natal Plum 
Cinnamomum camphora 

Camphor Tree 
-^Eugenia uniflora 

Surinam Cherry 
-\-Gardenia florida 

Cape Jasmine 
Gordonia lasianthus 

Loblolly Bay 
-{■Hibiscus rosa-sinensis 

Chinese Hibiscus 
Juniperus lucayana 

Southern Red Cedar 
Nerium oleander 

Oleander 

b. Northern Florida: 

Abelia grandiflora 

Hybrid Abelia 
Berberis thvnbergi 

Thunberg's Japanese Barberry 
Buxus sempervirens 

Tree Box 
Citrus trifoliata 

Hardy Orange 
Evonymus japonicus 

Evergreen Evonymus 



Pbyllanthus nivosus 

Snow Bush 
Pittosporum tobira 

Tobira Shrub 
Pittosporum undulatum 

Victorian Box 
Prunus caroliniana 

Carolina Laurel Cherry 
Psidium cattleianum 

Cattley Guava 
Raphiolepis indica 

Indian Hawthorn 
Severinia buxifolia 

Severino's Citrus 
Tabernaemontana coronariaflore pleno 

Rose Bay 
Triphasia trifoliata 

Bergamot Berry 
Viburnum tinus 

Laurestinus 



Ligustrum amurense 

Amoor River Privet 
Ligustrum nepalense variegata 

Variegated Nepaul Privet 
Nerium oleander 

Oleander 
Punica granatum 

Pomegranate 
Rosa rugosa 

Japanese Rose 
Thea sinensis 
Tea Plant 

F. Flowering Shrubs for Middle and Southern Florida. 
The following is a group of shrubs of more refined habit of growth which 
are adapted to middle and southern Florida. Those shrubs which are 
marked (+) are in flower during the winter months and are especially 
valuable for the northern tourists who visit Florida then. 



a. White flowers: 

Abelia grandiflora 
Hybrid Abelia 

Aralia spinosa 
Hercules Club 



■^Assonia natalensis 
White Assonia 

+ Azalea indica 
Indian Azalea 



3o6 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



-\-Bauhinia acuminata (T) 

White Mountain Ebony 
Chalcas paniculata (T) 

Orange Jasmine 
-\-Chiona-nthus virginica 

White Fringe 
Cotoneaster Jrigida 

Rose Box 
Cotoneaster pannosa 

Silver-leaved Rose Box 
Eleagnus pungens 

Silver Thorn 
Gardenia florida 

Cape Jasmine 
■^Hibiscus rosa-sinensis 

Chinese Hibiscus 
Hydrangea hortensis 

Japanese Hydrangea 
Ixora colei (T) 

White Ixora 
-\-Lagerstroemia indica 

Crape Myrtle 
•j-Laurocerasus caroliniana 

Wild Orange 



Lawsonia inermis (T) 

Henna 
Ligustrum nepalense 

Nepaul Privet 
-\-Neriiim oleander (single white) 

White Oleander 
Osmanthus americanus 

Florida Olive 
Osmanthus fragrans 

Sweet Olive 
■\-Pittosporum tohira 

Tobira Shrub 
-\-Plumhago capensis alba 

White Leadwort 
-\-Rosa (on multiflora stock) 

Garden Roses 
+ Tabernaemontana coronaria flore plena 

Rose Bay 
Tetrapanax papyriferum 

Rice Paper Plant 
Thunbergia erecta alba 

White Thunbergia 
Viburnum odoratissimum 

Fragrant Japanese Viburnum 
-{-Viburnum tinus 
Laurestinus 



b. Pink flowers: 

■\-Assonia punctata 

Pink Assonia 
-\- Azalea indica 

Indian Azalea 
-\-Bauhinia purpurea triandra 

Pink-flowering Mountain Ebony 
Camellia japonica 

Japonica 
-\-Cestrum elegans 

Red Coral Jasmine 
Chaenomeles japonica 

Japanese Quince 
Cotoneaster acuminata 

Rose Box 
-{-Hibiscus rosa-sinensis 

Chinese Hibiscus 



Hydrangea opuloides otaksa 

Hydrangea 
Ixora rosea splendens (T) 

Rose-coloured Ixora 
Lagerstroemia indica 

Crape Myrtle 
Nerium oleander Savort 

Pink Oleander 
Punicea granatum 

Pomegranate 
Rhodomyrtus tomentosus (T) 

Downy Myrtle 
-\-Rosa (on multiflora stock) 

Garden Roses 
Tamarix caspica 

Tamarisk 



Yellow flowers: 

Acacia farnesiana 
Papinac 

-{-Allamanda nerifolia 
Yellow Allamanda 



Artohotrys odoratissimus 
False Ylang-Ylang 

-\-Bauhinia tomentosa (T) 
Yellow Mountain Ebony 



PLANTS FOR FLORIDA 



307 



■\-Caesalpina pulcherrima flava 

Barbadoes Flower Fence 
-\-Cestrum auraniiacum (T) 

Yellow Cestrum 
Hamelia sphaerocarpa 

Scarlet Bush 
Ixora flore luteo (T) 

Yellow Ixora 
■\- Jasminum nudiftorum 

Naked-flowered Jasmine 
-{-Jasminum primulinum 

New Chinese Jasmine 



d. Red flowers: 

-\-Acalypha hispida (T) 

Chenille Plant 
-\- Azalea indie a 

Indian Azalea 
Caesalpina pulcherrima 

Barbadoes Flower Fence 
Callistemon lanceolalus 

Bottle-brush 
Calycanthus floridus 

Strawberry Shrub 
Euphorbia pulcherrima 

Poinsettia 
Hamelia erecta (T) 

Scarlet Bush 



-f Michelia fuscata 

Banana Shrub 
Paritium tiliaceum 

Yellow Ernajagua 
Podachaenium eminens 

Mexican Shrub Daisy 
-\-Rosa (on multiflora stock) 

Garden Roses 
■\-Stenolobium stans sambuci/olia 

Yellow-flowering Elder 
-I- Tecoma stans 

Yellow Elder 



Thevetia nerlfolia 
Trumpet Flower 



■\- Hibiscus rosa-sinensis 

Chinese Hibiscus 
Ixora coccinea (T) 

Scarlet Ixora 
Lagerstroemia indica 

Crape Myrtle 
Lawsonia rubra 

Red Flowering Henna 
Malvaviscus arboreus 

Turk's Cap 
Nerium oleander DeBrun 

Double Crimson Oleander 
-^Roses (on multiflora stock) 

Garden Roses 



e. Purple and blue flowers: 



-\- Allamanda purpurea 

Purple Allamanda 
Asy stasia bella 

Mackaya 
-\- Azalea indica 

Indian Azalea 
Bauhinia purpurea (T) 

Purple Mountain Ebony 
Callicarpa americana 

Beauty Fruit 



-^Daedalacanthus nervosus (T) 

Blue Justicia 
Duranta repens 

Golden Dewdrop 
-\-Hibiscus rosa-sinensis 

Chinese Hibiscus 
Hydrangea opuloides oiaksa 

Hydrangea 
Lagerestroemia indica 

Crape Myrtle 
-\- Plumbago capensis 
Blue Leadwort 



G. Ground-cover Plants. This list contains a group of vines 
v^rhich are interesting for ground cover in partially shaded situations. 
Most of these vines are evergreen in their habit of foliage and are of 



3o8 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

value for covering banks and other bare areas where it is desired to have 
another covering than grass. 

Ferns (in moist shade) Lonicera sempervirens 

Ferns Coral Honeysuckle 

Gdsemiian sempervirens Zebrina pendula 

Carolina Jasmine Wandering Jew 

Hedera helix Zoysia matrella 

English Ivy Manilla Grass 

Lonicera japonica halliana Zoysia tenuifolia 

Japanese Honeysuckle Mascarene Grass 

H. Shrubs for Shady Conditions. The following is a group of 
shrubs most of which are evergreen in their foliage characteristics, and 
all of which are adapted for plantations in partial shade, either under 
large trees or on the north side of buildings where full sunlight is 
not available. 

Azalea indica Ligustrum amurense 

Indian Azalea Amoor River Privet 

Camellia japonica Ligustrum nepalense variegala 

Japonica Variegated Nepaul Privet 

Hamelia erecta Osmanthus fragrans 

Scarlet Bush Svs-eet Olive 

Hamelia sphaerocarpa Severinia buxifoUa 

Scarlet Bush Severino's Citrus 

I. Herbaceous Plants. This group includes plants many of 
which are semi-woody in character and which fundamentally are 
known as herbaceous stock. There is still a great opportunity to 
introduce a number of the northern types of herbaceous stock into the 
garden plantations of Florida. This list is compiled as a partial list 
of those which to date have been found to be of real interest and value. 
Many other plants may be added to this list in safety, but because of 
the lack of record of experiments conducted with their growth in this 
climate they have not been included. 

The climate of middle and southern Florida has been aptly described 
by one horticulturist as that of a great out-of-door greenhouse. The 
climate is such that many of the flowering annuals so familiar to the 
gardens of the north prove failures when grown in the Florida garden. 
Such plants as the annual larkspur, snapdragon, China aster, sweet 
William, and baby's breath, producing such an abundance of cut flowers 
when grown in the north, are grown with little success in Florida. 



PLANTS FOR FLORIDA 309 

Nasturtiums, annual phlox, gaillardia, zinnias, and marigolds pro- 
duce quantities of flowers. 

In the north such annuals are seeded in the latter part of April. 
Flowers are then produced early in July. In the Florida garden, if 
flowers are desired early in January, the nasturtium seeds are sown 
during the first week of September, alyssum seeds not later than No- 
vember tenth, sweet peas in early September, and the other annuals, 
such as annual phlox, gaillardia, verbenas, annual carnation, and 
calendulas, are seeded not later than the first week in October. If 
flowers are wanted at an earlier date seeds should be sown proportion- 
ately earher. 

The winter months are better for the growth of flowers. Very few 
persons in Florida attempt to grow annuals during the hot and usually 
dry months of summer. 

It seems at first, to the garden lover from the north, that any of 
the northern garden flowers should grow vigorously in the Florida cli- 
mate. Many keen disappointments await these persons. Those who 
have tried growing many kinds in an effort to obtain garden flower 
effects and flowers for table use have finally accepted, as the reliable 
types, the few that are starred in the following group: 



*Acalypha hisfida *Dianthus caryophylliu 

Chenille Plant Carnation 

Agave Funkia (north only) 

Century Plant Plantain Lily 

Ageratum *Gaillardia grandiflora 

Floss Flower Blanket Flower 

*Alyssum (in variety) Gynerium (north only) 

Madwort Pampas Grass 

*Asler novae-angliae Climax Gypsophila paniculaia 

Blue Hardy Aster Baby's Breath 

Bamhusa (in variety) Hemerocallis (north only) 

Bamboo Day Lily 

Chrysanthemum (north only) Hippeastrum 

Chrysanthemum Amaryllis 

Clerodendron squamatum Iris hexagona 

Chinese Tube-flower Florida Iris 

Codiaeum variegatum (in variety) Lantana (T) 

Croton Lantana 

*Coreopsis tinctoria Lilium henryi 

Tickseed Yellow Lily 

Cyperus alternifolius Limnocharis humboldti 

Umbrella Plant Water Poppy 



3IO 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



Nelumbo 

American Lotus 
Nuphar 

Spatter-dock 
Nymphaea 

Water-lily 
* Phlox drummondi 

Drummond's Phlox 
Russelia juncea 

Fountain Plant 



*Tropaeolum majus 
Nasturtium 

* Verbena hybrida 

Verbena 
Finca 

Periwinkle 
Fiola 

Violet 

* Yucca filamentosa 

Adam's Needle 



*Zinnia elegans 
Zinnia 



J. Plants for Seashore Planting. Peculiar as it may seem, 
along the shores of the larger lakes, and along the seashore particularly, 
the group of plants which can be used is restricted to those plants which 
are particularly adapted to light, sandy soils and also to withstand the 
heavy storms, mostly in the nature of wind storms, to which such 
plants are often subjected. 



a. Trees: 



Casuarina equisetifolia 

Australian Pine 
Coccoloha unifera 

Shore Grape 
Eucalyptus citriodora 

Lemon Gum 
Ficus aurea 

Wild Rubber 
Gliricidia maculata 

Madre 



Ilex opaca 

American Holly 

Juniperus barbadensis 
Red Cedar 

Liquidambar styraciflua 
Sweet Gum 

Palms (in variety) 

Pithecolobium dulce 
Manila Tamarind 



Plumeria (in variety) 
Frangipani Trees 



b. Shrubs: 



Acacia farnesiana 

Papinac 
Caesalpina pulcherrima 

Barbadoes Flower Fence 
Callistemon 

Bottle-brush 
Carissa acuminata 

Natal Plum 
Hibiscus rosa-sinensis 

Chinese Hibiscus 
Ixora (in variety) 

Ixora 



Lagerstroemia indica 

Crape Myrtle 
Myrica cerifera 

Bayberry 
Nerium oleander 

Oleander 
Pittosporum tobira 

Tobira Shrub 
Tamarix caspica 

Tamarisk 
Thevetia nereifolia 

Trumpet Flower 




Plate XLIX. In the selection ot perennials for the garden not only should 
the possibilities of interesting colour combinations in the flower effects be ob- 
served, but also the possibilities for interesting texture of foliage. (A) larks- 
pur; (B) lemon lily (commonly called day lily). (See page 231) 



PLANTS FOR FLORIDA 311 

Vines: 

Allamanda Clerodendron ihompsonae 

Allamanda Vine Scarlet Clerodendron 

Bignonia unguis-cati Cryptostegia madagascariensis 

Argentine Trumpet Vine Pink Madagascar Cryptostegia 

Bougainvillea Solanum 

Paper Flower Tomatillo 



CHAPTER XLIV 
PLANTS FOR MINNESOTA 

The lists given in this chapter cover the more common uses for which 
plants are selected. Perennial lists are not given because perennial 
plantings succeed according to the skill of the grower in adapting 
them to his location and giving them necessary winter protection. 
Constant care must be exercised to replace winter losses. The 
discussion in the main part of the foregoing text under the different 
lists and groups of plants applies equally well to most of the northern 
part of the United States, including Minnesota and adjoining 
territory. 

Throughout this region spring planting is preferable to autumn, if it 
is done early enough, except of course for peonies and irises. In es- 
pecially dry autumn weather autumn-planted stock is quite likely to 
prove a total loss. Ordinary shrubs and trees can be moved in the 
autumn under good conditions and this is also true of locally grown 
conifers moved in September; but other plants, and especially the 
perennials, should be moved only in the spring. Owing to the 
severity of the climate, especially in dry winters, sometimes without 
snow more than six inches deep, there is little tendency to encourage 
experimenting with half-hardy stock and most of the lists given are 
short. 

These lists apply to an area within a two-hundred-mile radius of the 
Twin Cities in every direction. In eastern Wisconsin the Great 
Lakes would temper the climate, while northern Minnesota would be 
still more severe than at the Twin Cities, especially on sandy pine 
soils. Western Minnesota is quite similar, but a little more subject to 
drought and high winds. Central Iowa can grow a slightly larger 
list of plants because of a warmer climate and perhaps a little more 
rainfall. 

In making a selection of plants from any of the other lists in this book 
for use in this region, first consult List XLIV-G to eliminate all types 
which have proved not hardy. The other lists may be consulted freely 

312 



PLANTS FOR MINNESOTA 313 

with this exception. All plants of questionable hardiness should be 
carefully protected. 

LIST OF PLANTS FOR MINNESOTA 

A. Hedges. Owing to the severe exposure to which a hedge may 
be subjected only small groups can be recommended as entirely "iron- 
clad." No broad-leaved evergreens can be listed and only the most 
hardy sorts of conifers, among them being the Black Hills variety of the 
white spruce, given here as picea canadensis. Early spring-flowering 
shrubs like the golden bell and deutzia are not hardy and none of the 
beeches should be used for windbreaks or other types of hedges. Most 
of the other plants shown in Chapter XII can be planted safely. 

a. Barriers: 

Crataegus coccinea Picea excelsa 

Scarlet-fruited Thorn Norway Spruce 

Hippophae rhamnoides Rkamnus caihartica 

Sea Buckthorn Common Buckthorn 

Juniperus virginiana Ribes alpinum 

Red Cedar Alpine Currant 

Lonicera iatarica Ribes oxycanihoides 

Tartarian Honeysuckle Wild Gooseberry 

Picea canadensis Rosa rugosa 

Black Hills Spruce Japanese Rose 

b. Windbreaks: 

Acer tataricum Pinus strobus 
Tartarian Maple White Pine 

Picea canadensis Pinus sylvestris 
Black Hills Spruce Scotch Pine 

Pinus nigra austriaca Salix 
Austrian Pine Willow 

B. Ground Cover. No evergreen ground-cover plants seem to 
prove hardy in the region covered by this list, and so the plants given 
are confined to deciduous shrubs and vines. Perennials can be used 
in proportion to the winter protection provided for them. 

a. Shrubs: 

Artemisia sericea Ribes aureum 

Siberian Wormwood Flowering Currant 

Comptonia asplenifolia Ribes oxycanihoides 
Sweet Fern Wild Gooseberry 



314 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

Rosa arkansana Spiraea sorbifnlia 

Arkansas Rose Sorb-leaved Spirea 

Rubus ndnratus Spiraea tomentosa 

Flowering Raspberry Hardback 

Symphoricarpos vulgaris 
Indian-currant 

b. Vines: 

Ampelopsis quinquefolia Lycium haJimi folium 
Virginia Creeper Matrimony Vine 

Celastrus scandens Menispermum canadense 
American Bitter-sweet Common Moonseed 

C. Plants Valuable for Autumn Colouration of Leaves. 
Only plants which show good autumn colour, either at an early or 
medium season, prove valuable in this region smce late colour is in- 
variably destroyed by hard freezes. 

a. Early: 

Acer negundo Celtis occidenialis 

Box Elder Nettle Tree 

Acer rubruni Populus eugenei 

Red Maple Carolina Poplar 

Acer saccharum Rhus iyphina 

Sugar Maple Staghorn Sumac 

Betula lutea Sassafras officinale 

Yellow Birch Common Sassafras 

b. Medium: 

Ampelopsis quinquefolia Quercus rubra 
Virginia Creeper Red Oak 

Berberis ihunbergi Vaccinium corymhosum 
Thunberg's Japanese Barberry High-bush Blueberry 

Fraxinus americana Viburnum acerifolium 
White Ash Maple-leaved Viburnum 

D. Heavy, Formal Effects. Either due to the prevalence of ice 
storms which break them down or to their inherent lack of hardiness, 
most of the plants which are elsewhere available for heavy, formal effects 
are not available in this region. This group is accordingly a small one. 

Juniperus virginiana Picea excelsa pyramidalis 

Red Cedar Pyramidal Norway Spruce 

Juniperus virginiana glauca Populus alba pyramidalis 

Blue Virginia Cedar Bolle's Poplar 

Populus nigra italica 
Lombardy Poplar 



PLANTS FOR MINNESOTA 315 

E. Street Trees. The group of trees (a) given as entirely 
hardy is interesting for the following reasons: The American linden, 
here substituted for the European linden — which is of doubtful hardi- 
ness — is not ordinarily used elsewhere on account of dropping its leaves 
in late summer when used as a city street tree. The hackberry, while 
a native of the major part of the United States east of the Rocky 
Mountains, does not succeed well enough outside of the northwestern 
portion of its range to enable listing it elsewhere as a street tree. Its 
natural habitat is rich, moist soil. The white ash is a handsome orna- 
mental tree native of the eastern United States and not nearly often 
enough used as a street tree. 

a. Entirely hardy under all conditions: 

Acer sacckarum Quercus coccinea 

Sugar Maple Scarlet Oak 

Celtis occidenialis Quercus rubra 

Nettle Tree Red Oak 

Fraxinus americana Tilia americana 

White Ash American Linden 
Ulmus americana 
American Elm 

b. Which should be selected with a thorough knowledge of the condi- 
tions under which they are to be used: 

Acer sacckarinum Populus eugenei 
Soft Maple Carolina Poplar 

Acer platanoides Pyrus ioensis 
Norway Maple Western Crab 

Betula papyri/era Sorbus americana 

Paper Birch American Mountain Ash 

F. Evergreens Most Used. The group of conifers most used in 
Minnesota is restricted to a few of the "ironclad" sorts. These are 
all native species and when used the following notes should be borne 
in mind. The hemlock is not naturally adapted to windswept places 
anywhere, and especially not in this region. Of the white fir only the 
Colorado form should be used, and while this plant will withstand 
considerable heat and drought it is intolerant of smoke and soot. The 
arborvitae suffers frequently from ice storms and should be protected 
from them. The Douglas spruce is one of the fastest if not the fastest 



3i6 THE COMPLETE GARDEN . 

growing conifer. It produces a soft foliage which requires that it be 
planted in groups for mutual protection against strong winds. 

Abies concolor Pinus nigra austriaca 

White Fir Austrian Pine 

Juniperus (in variety) Pinus resinosa 

Cedar Red Pine 

Picea alba Pinus strobus 

White Spruce White Pine 

Pic fa canadensis Pinus syhestris 

Black Hills Spruce Scotch Pine 

Picea excelsa Pseudotsuga douglasi 

Norway Spruce Douglas Fir 

Picea pungens glauca Thuja occidentalis (in variety) 

Koster's Blue Spruce American Arborvitae 
Tsuga canadensis 
Canadian Hemlock 

G. Not Hardy in Minnesota. The following group contains 
plants which are not hardy when used in the Minnesota section. These 
plants are generally in one of three groups: the early spring-flow- 
ering types, the broad-leaved and tender evergreens, and those which 
ripen their wood late in the fall. As a result of years of experience in 
landscape planting, these types have not proved hardy, although many 
of them are extremely hardy when used throughout the northwestern 
and central portions of the United States. 

Acer palmatum Cornus florida 

Japanese Maple Flowering Dogwood 

*' Akehia quinata ^Cornus kousa 

Five-leaved Akebia Japanese Dogwood 

"Aialea (in variety) Cornus mas 

Azalea Cornelian Cherry 

^ Benzoin aestivale Deutzia (in variety) 

Spice Bush Deutzia 

Buxus (in variety) Exockorda (in variety) 

Boxwood Pearl Bush 

Callicarpa (in variety) Fagus sylvatica 

Mulberry European Beech 

.Catalpa (in variety) Forsythia (in variety) 

Indian Bean Golden Bell 

Cercis canadensis Halesia tetraptera 

Red-bud Silver Bell Tree 

Chamaecyparis (in variety) Hibiscus (in variety) 

Japanese Cypress Rose of Sharon 

Clethra alnijolia Ilex (except veriicillala) 

Sweet Pepper Bush Holly 



PLANTS FOR MINNESOTA 317 

Jasminum (in variety) Magnolia (in variety) 

Jasmine Magnolia 

Kalmia (in variety) Mahonia (in variety) 

Laurel Oregon Grape 

.Kerria (in variety) Myrica (in variety) 

Globe-flower Bayberry 

Ligustrum (most varieties) Prunus (most varieties) 

Privet Flowering Almonds and Cherries 

Lonicera japonica halliana Rhododendron (in variety) 

Japanese Honeysuckle Rhododendron 
Taxus (in variety) 
Yew 



CHAPTER XLV 
PLANTS FOR SOUTH ATLANTIC STATES 

The territory for which this list has been prepared comprises that 
lying between the Atlantic Ocean on the east and the Appalachian foot- 
hills or Piedmont on the west, and extending from Washington, D. C, 
to Savannah, Atlanta, and southern Alabama. This territory includes 
the eastern half of Virginia and of North Carolina, nearly all of South 
Carolina and of Georgia and all of Alabama lying south and east of 
Birmingham (See Plate No. H). 

Owing to the influence of the mountains on the west and north, 
and of the Atlantic Ocean with its Gulf Stream on the east, this 
territory is especially favourable for the growing of plants which would 
not succeed at the same latitude farther inland. This territory has a 
high annual average humidity and a rainfall of 50 to 60 inches each 
year. It has a low narrow range in temperature — about 30 degrees — 
and a long growing season, extending from one hundred and eighty days 
in the north to two hundred days in the south. All of these factors con- 
tribute to the successful growth of many somewhat tender plants and 
in some cases also force the growth of northern plants to a great size. 

The most that can be done under present conditions with a list of this 
kind and until such time as further information is compiled, is to tabu- 
late some of the more important types of plants which have been used 
throughout this southern territory. It must be remembered that with 
the much longer growing season and the higher average of rainfall 
plants will grow much more vigorously and much larger than the 
same plants will grow throughout the northern zones. Plants which 
may be adapted to a certain use in the zones farther north may be en- 
tirely inappropriate for a similar use in this southern territory. For 
this reason intimate knowledge should be obtained concerning the 
growing characteristics of any types that are to be introduced into the 
southern conditions. 

Many of the plants adapted for use in the northern zones will readily 
produce an abnormal growth in these southern zones as represented by 

318 




Plate L. A few water lilies may enhance a picture such as the above, 
but a proper restraint on their use and control is always desirable. (See 
page 234, group XXXI-L-a) 



PLANTS FOR SOUTH ATLANTIC STATES 



319 



the south Atlantic states. On the other hand, very few of the plants 
which are indigenous to this south Atlantic area will prove hardy when 
used in the territory north of Washington. For instance, Hall's 
climbing honeysuckle is one of the plants common to both the northern 
zone and the southern zone, but in the southern territory this plant 
produces a much more interesting development of foliage and of flowers 
while in the northern zones the same plant suffers severely from winter- 
killing of the small and more tender portions of its growth. There are 
a few of our desirable northern types, such as lilacs, which adjust 
themselves with extreme difficulty to the changed climatic conditions. 
On the other hand, the hydrangea is grown with remarkable success 
in the south. 

LIST OF PLANTS FOR SOUTH ATLANTIC STATES 

A. Ground Cover. This group of plants for ground cover is more 
restricted than the group including plants available for use farther 
north. This is due to the fact that many herbaceous perennials do not 
succeed in the long, hot summers of the south. 



a. Moist -places: 



Asarum arifolium 

Mottled Snakeroot 
Asarum virginicum 

Virginia Snakeroot 
Dalibarda repens 

Barren Strawberry 
Evonymus radicans 

Climbing Evonymus 
Hedera helix 

English Ivy 
Helonias bullata 

Swamp Pink 



Houstonia serpyllifolia 

Creeping Bluet 
Lysimachia nummularia 

Moneywort 
Phlox subulata 

Moss Pink 
Sedum nevi 

Nevius' Stonecrop 
Vinca minor 

Periwinkle 
Viola cornuta 

Tufted Pansy 



b. Dry places: 

Ampelopsis quinquefolia 

Virginia Creeper 
Ampelopsis tricuspidata veitchi 

Boston Ivy 
Ceraiiola ericoides 

Southern Heather 
Clematis paniculata 

Japanese Clematis 



Coronilla cappadocica 

Mediterranean Crown Vetch 
Coronilla emerus 

Scorpion Senna 
Coronilla varia 

European Crown Vetch 
Duchesnea indica 

Yellow Strawberry 



320 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



Iris cristata 

Crested Iris 
Lonicera browni 

Brown's Honeysuckle 
Lonicera heckrntti 

Purple-flowering Honeysuckle 
Lonicera japonica halliana 

Japanese Honeysuckle 
Opuntia vulgaris 

Barberry Fig 



Saxifraga virginiensis 

Early-blooming Saxifrage 
Shortia galacifolia 

Shortia 
Vinca major 

Trailing Vinca 
Yucca filamentosa 

Adam's Needle 
Yucca flaccida 

Drooping-leaved Adam's Needle 



B. Hedges. The following groups include mostly plants which are 
distinctive in this region or are not available for use farther north. 
This is especially true of the evergreen list. 



a. Holding leaves throughout winter: 

Abelia chinensis 

Chinese Abelia 
Abelia floribunda 

Mexican Abelia 
Abelia grandifiora 

Hybrid Abelia 
Abelia triflora 

Himalayan Abelia 
Acacia armata 

Kangaroo Thorn 
Azalea amoena 

Hardy Evergreen Azalea 
Berberis hakeoides 

Chilean Barberry 
Buxus (in variety) 

Boxwood 
Buxus sempervirens 

Tree Box 
Buxus suffruticosa 

Dwarf Box 
Camellia japonica 

Japonica 
Cedrus deodar a 

Deodar 
Chamaecypario 

Japanese Cypress 
Cinnamomum camphora 

Camphor Tree 
Cotoneaster rotundifolia lanata 

Box-leaved Cotoneaster 
Gardenia jasmino'des 

Cape Jasmine 

Prunus laurocerasus 
English Laurel 



Ilex aquifolium 

English Holly 
Ilex crenata 

Japanese Holly 
Ilex opaca 

American Holly 
Juniperus virginiana 

Red Cedar 
Libocedrus decurrens 

Incense Cedar 
Ligustrum amurense 

Amoor River Privet 
Ligustrum ibota 

Japanese Privet 
Ligustrum japonicum 

Evergreen Privet 
Ligustrum lucidum 

Shining-leaved Privet 
Ligustrum nepalense 

Nepaul Privet 
Ligustrum quihoui 

Late-blooming Privet 
Ligustrum sinense 

Chinese Privet 
Osmanthus aquifolium 

Fragrant Olive 
Osmanthus fragrans 

Sweet Olive 
Piitosporum tobira 

Tobira Shrub 
Prunus caroliniana 

Carolina Laurel Cherry 



PLANTS FOR SOUTH ATLANTIC STATES 



321 



Pyracantha coccinea lalandi 

Evergreen Thorn 
Thea sinensis 

Tea Plant 



Yucca filamentosa 
Adam's Needle 



Thuja orientalis 

Oriental Arborvitae 
Viburnum linus 

Laurestinus 



b. Not holding leaves throughout winter: 

Acer campestre 

European Cork Maple 
Citrus trijoliata 

Hardy Orange 
Deutzia kalmiaeflora 

Pink-flowered Hybrid Deutzia 
Deutzia longifolia 

Long-leaved Deutzia 
Deutzia myriantha 

White-flowered Hybrid Deutzia 

Rosa rugosa 
Japanese Rose 



Deutzia purpurascens 

Purple-flowered Deutzia 
Hibiscus syriacus 

Rose of Sharon 
Ligustrum ovalifolium 

California Privet 
Lonicera fragrantissima 

Early Fragrant Honeysuckle 
Prunus americana 

Wild Plum 



C. Trees FOR Street Planting. This group comprises only those 
street trees which are most Hkely to produce the best results under 
normal conditions. 



Aesculus indica 

Himalayan Horse-chestnut 
Aesculus octandra 

Sweet Buckeye 
Aesculus wilsoni 

Wilson's Chinese Horse-chestnut 

Ailanthus glandulosa 

Tree of Heaven 
Cehis mississippiensis 

Southern Hackberry 
Celtis occidentalis 

Nettle Tree 
Celtis sinensis 

Chinese Nettle Tree 
Fraxinus biltmoreana 

Biltmore Ash 
Fraxinus caroliniana 

Water Ash 
Ginkgo biloba 

Maidenhair Tree 
Gleditsia delavayi 

Long-spined Honey Locust 



Gleditsia japonica 

Japanese Honey Locust 
Gleditsia sinensis 

Chinese Honey Locust 
Liquidambar styraciflua 

Sweet Gum 
Magnolia acuminata 

Cucumber Tree 

Magnolia grandiflora 

Magnolia 
Magnolia tripetala 

Umbrella Tree 
Nyssa sylvatica 

Tupelo 
Quercus coccinea 

Scarlet Oak 
Quercus imbricaria 

Shingle Oak 
Quercus laurifolia 

Laurel Oak 
Quercus nigra 

Water Oak 



322 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

Quercus palustris Quercus rubra 

Pin Oak Red Oak 

Quercus phellos Quercus virginiana 

Willow Oak Live Oak 

Ulmus alata 
Winged Elm 

D. Evergreens Most Used. The climate of the south Atlantic 
states (Virginia, North Carolina, South Carolina, Georgia, and Ala- 
bama) provides an opportunity to use the broad-leaved evergreens in 
great profusion as well as certain sorts of conifers which are not desir- 
able farther north. All the broad-leaved evergreens mentioned else- 
where in this book are useful in this region, as well as the coniferous 
plants named below. All of these plants, however, with the exception 
of the junipers, require at least partial shade (See Chapter XXXIII). 
The firs, spruces, hemlocks, American arborvitae, and Douglas fir 
should never be used in this region at elevations below 1,200 feet above 
sea level. 

Cedrus atlantica Chamacyparis pisifera filifera 

Mt. Atlas Cedar Thread-branched Cypress 

Cedrus atlantica glauca Chamacyparis pisifera plumosa 

Mt. Atlas Silver Cedar Plume-like Cypress 

Cedrus deodara Cryptomeria iaponica (in variety) 

Deodar Japanese Cedar 

Cedrus libani Cupressus sempervirens fastigiata 

Cedar of Lebanon Italian Cypress 

Cephalotaxus drupacea Juniperus virginiana glauca 

Large-fruited Yew Blue Virginia Cedar 

Cephalotaxus foriunei Libocedrus decurrens 

Fortune's Yew Incense Cedar 

Chamaecyparis ericoides Pinus excelsa 

Compact White Cedar Bhotan Pine 

Chamaecyparis lawsoniana Taxus baccata (in variety) 

Lawson's Cypress English Yew 

Chamaecyparis pisifera Taxus cuspidata (in variety) 

Pea-fruited Cypress Japanese Yew 
Thuja orientalis ■ 
Oriental Arborvitae 

E. Formal Effects. The plants in this group are mostly trees 
of a compact, upright habit of growth, and are useful as "exclamation 
points" and for marking axes in formal gardens. 

Catalpa bungei Cephalotaxus harringtoniana fastigiata 

Round-leaved Catalpa Columnar Stem-fruited Yew 

Cedrus deodara Cercidiphyllum japonicum 

Deodar K ad sura Tree 



PLANTS FOR SOUTH ATLANTIC STATES 



323 



Chamaecyparis lawsoniana 

Lawson's Cypress 
Chamaecyparis thyoides 

White Cedar 
Cryptomeria japonka lobhi 

Lobb's Cypress 
Cunninghamia lanceolata 

Chinese Cunninghamia 
Cupressus sempervirens fastigiata 

Italian Cypress 
Hibiscus syriacus 

Rose of Sharon 
Ilex (in variety) 

Holly 
Juniperus chinensis 

Chinese Juniper 
Juniperus chinensis albo-variegata 

Silver-tipped Chinese Juniper 
Juniperus excelsa 

Greek Juniper 



Juniperus virginxana glauca 

Blue Virginia Cedar 
Juniperus virginiana schoiii 

Schott's Red Cedar 
Laurocerasus caroliniana 

Wild Orange 
Libocedrus decurrens 

Incense Cedar 
Ligustrum (in variety) 

Privet 
Quercus robur pedunculata 

English Oak 
Sciadopitys verticillata 

Umbrella Pine 
Taxodium distichum 

Bald Cypress 
Taxus (in variety) 

Yew 
Thuja orientalis pyramidalis 

Pyramidal Oriental Arborvitae 



F. Border Planting. As most plants, when used in the south 
Atlantic states, double their northern height, the problem is to find 
low-growers. The following groups have thus been confined to low- 
growing plants (below five feet) and medium-growing plants (from 
five to ten feet). 



a. Lozo-growing deciduous shrubs: 

Amorpha tennessensis 

Tennessee False Indigo 
Azalea canescens 

Fragrant Mountain Azalea 
Azalea gandavensis 

Ghent Azalea 
Azalea mollis 

Japanese Azalea 
Azalea nudiflora 

Pinkster Flower 
Azalea pontica 

Pontic Azalea 
Azalea vaseyi 

Carolina Azalea 
Azalea viscosa 

Swamp Azalea 
Berberis aristata 

Purple-fruited Barberry 
Berberis canadensis 

Alleghany Barberry 



Berberis keieropoda 

Fragrant Barberry 
Berberis sieboldi 

Siebold's Barberry 
Berberis wilsonae 

Wilson's Barberry 
Callicarpa americana 

Beauty Fruit 
Callicarpa purpurea 

Beauty Fruit 
Caryopteris incana 

Blue Spirea 
Ceanothus hybridus 

Hybrid New Jersey Tea 
Comptonia asplenifolia 

Sweet Fern 
Coronilla emerus 

Scorpion Senna 
Corylopsis pauciflora 

Japanese Flowering Hazel 



324 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



Daphne genkwa 

Lilac-flowered Daphne 
Daphne mezereum 

Caucasian Daphne 
Deutzia gracilis 

Slender Deutzia 
Elsholtzia cristata 

Dwarf Elsholtzia 
Fothergilla gardeni 

Dwarf Alder 
Fothergilla parviflora 

Southern Dwarf Alder 
Hydrangea opuloides hortensia 

Garden Hydrangea 
Hypericum aureum 

Large-flowered St. John's Wort 
Hypericum calycinum 

Aaron's Beard 
Hypericum glomeraium 

Mountain St. John's Wort 
Hypericum moserianum 

Gold-flower 
Hypericum nudiflorum 

Naked-flowered St. John's Wort 
Hypericum prolificum 

Shrubby St. John's Wort 

Zenobia speciosa 
Zenobia 



Jasminum (in variety) 

Jasmine 
Meralia praecox 

Chinese Sweet Shrub 
Pieris mariana 

Stagger Bush 
Pruntis triloba 

Flowering Plum 
Robinia hispida 

Rose Acacia 
Rosa rugosa 

Japanese Rose 
Rosmarinus officinalis 

Rosemary 
Salvia greggi 

Mexican Salvia 
Salvia greggi alba 

White Mexican Salvia 
Spiraea bumalda anthony waUrer 

Crimson Spirea 
Stephanandra flexuosa 

Stephanandra 
Symphoricarpos racemosus 

Snowberry 



Symphoricarpos vulgaris 
Indian Currant 



b. Low-growing evergreen shrubs: 

Abelia floribunda 

Mexican Abelia 
Ardisia crenulata rubra 

Ardisia 
Aucuba japonica 

Japanese Laurel 
Aucuba japonica latimaculata 

Spotted Japanese Laurel 
Azalea amoena 

Hardy Evergreen Azalea 
Azalea indica 

Indian Azalea 
Azalea indica kaempferi 

Orange-flowered Azalea 
Azalea obtusa 

Hardy Indian Azalea 
Berberis buxi/olia 

Box-leaved Barberry 
Berberis darwini 

Darwin's Barberry 



Berberis ilicifolia 

Holly-leaved Barberry 
Berberis sargentiana 

Evergreen Barberry 
Berberis stenophylla 

Small-leaved Barberry 
Buxus japonica aurea 

Golden Japanese Box 
Buxus suffruticosa 

Dwarf Box 
Calluna vulgaris 

Scotch Heather 
Calluna vulgaris alba 

White-flowered Heather 
Camellia japonica 

Japonica 
Cleyera ochnacea 

Cleyera 
Cotoneaster dammeri 

Chinese Prostrate Cotoneaster 



PLANTS FOR SOUTH ATLANTIC STATES 



32s 



Cotoneaster horhontalis 

Prostrate Cotoneaster 
Cotoneaster microphylla 

Small-leaved Cotoneaster 
Cotoneaster microphylla gracilis 

Dwarf Cotoneaster 
Cotoneaster rotundifolia 

Round-leaved Cotoneaster 
Cotoneaster rotundifolia lanata 

Box-leaved Cotoneaster 
Cotoneaster thymifolia 

Thyme-leaved Cotoneaster 
Daphne cneorum 

Garland Flower 
Elaeagnus macrophylla 

Broad-leaved Oleaster 
Gardenia florida 

Cape Jasmine 
Ilex glabra 

Inkberry 

Yucca g 
Late-flowering 



Leiophyllum huxifolium 

Sand Myrtle 
Leucotho'e catesbaei 

Catesby's Andromeda 
Mahonia aquifolium 

Oregon Grape 
Mahonia repens 

Creeping Mahonia 
Pieris floribunda 

Mt. Fetterbush 
Pieris japonica 

Japanese Fetterbush 
Rhododendron myrtifolium 

Myrtle-leaved Rhododendron 
Rhododendron punctatum 

Early-flowering Rhododendron 
Yucca filamentosa 

Adam's Needle 
Yucca glauca 

Early-flowering Adam's Needle 



loriosa 
Adam's Needle 



c. Medium-growing deciduous shrubs: 

Aronia melanocarpa 

Black Chokeberry 
Baccharis halimifolia 

Groundsel Bush 
Benzoin aestivale 

Spice Bush 
Buddleia (in variety) 

Summer Lilac 
Calycanthus floridus 

Strawberry Shrub 
Calycanthus occidentalis 

Western Sweet-scented Shrub 
Cassia corymhosa 

Argentina Senna 
Chaenomeles sinensis 

Chinese Flowering Quince 
Cistus laurifolius 

Laurel-leaved Rock Rose 
Clethra acuminata 

Mt. Pepper Bush 
Clethra tomentosa 

Woolly-leaved White Alder 
Cornus paucinervis 

Square-twigged Dogwood 
Corylus maxima purpurea 

Purple-leaved hazel 



Cotoneaster aciitifoUa 

Pointed-leaved Cotoneaster 
Cotoneaster multiflora 

Spanish Cotoneaster 
Cotoneaster racemiflora 

Cotoneaster 
Cytisus praecox 

Hybrid Broom 
Cytisus scoparius 

Scotch Broom 
Deutzia lemoinei 

Lemoine's Deutzia 
Deutzia rosea 

Dwarf Pink Deutzia 
Deutzia scabra 

Single White Deutzia 
Dirca palustris 

Leather-wood 
Elaeagnus longipes 

Japanese Oleaster 
Elaeagnus parviflora 

Small-leaved Silver Thoin 
Elaeagnus umbellata 

Japanese Oleaster 
Forsythia suspensa 

Drooping Golden Bell 



326 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



Genista tinctoria 
Dyer's Greenweed 

Halimodendron halodendron 

Salt Tree 
Hydrangea arborescens grandiflora 

Large-flowered Wild Hydrangea 
Hydrangea quercifolia 

Oak-leaved Hydrangea 
Ilea virginica 

Virginian Willow 
Kerria japonica 

Globe-flower 
Lespedeza bicolor 

Shrubby Bush Clover 
Lespedeza sieboldi 

Siebold's Desmodium 
Lonicera standishi 

Standish's Bush Honeysuckle 
Myrica carolinensis 

Bay berry 



Myrica cerifera 

Bayberry 
Myrica gale 

Bayberry 
Myricaria germanica 

German Tamarisk 
Neviusia alabamensis 

Snow Wreath 
Prunus triloba 

Flowering Plum 
Spiraea prunifolia 

Bridal Wreath 
Spiraea vanhoutiei 

Van Houtte's Bridal Wreath 
Styrax americana 

American Storax 
Styrax japonica 

Japanese Storax 
Styrax obassia 

Broad-leaved Storax 



d. Medium-growing evergreen shrubs: 



Abelia floribunda 

Mexican Abelia 
Abelia grandiflora 

Hybrid Abelia 
Berberis haheoides 

Chilean Barberry 
Berberis neuherti latifolia 

Holly-leaved Barberry 
Buxvs sempervirens handtvortkl 

Handworth's Tree Box 
Cotoneaster simonsi 

Himalayan Rose Box 
Elaeagnus pungens 

Silver Thorn 
Elaeagnus p-ungens variegata 

Variegated Silver Thorn 
Cardenia jasminoides 

Cape Jasmine 
Gardenia jasminoides fortuniana 

Fortune's Cape Jasmine 
Gardenia jasminoides veitchi 

Veitch's Cape Jasmine 
Lcurvs nobilis 

Bay Tree 
Ligustrum coriaceum 

Round-leaved Privet 
Mahonia aquifolium 

Oregon Grape 



Mahonia fortunei 

Chinese Mahonia 
Mahonia japonica 

Japanese Mahonia 
Mahonia pinnaia 

Southwestern Mahonia 
Michelia Juscata 

Banana Shrub 
Myrtus communis 

True Myrtle 
Nandina domestica 

Japanese Nandina 
Pittosporum tobira 

Tobira Shrub 
Prunus laurocerasus schipkaensis 

Hardy English Laurel 
Raphiolepis indica 

Indian Hawthorn 
Rhododendron arbutifolium. 

Dwarf Rhododendron 
Rhododendron catatvbiense hybridum 

Hybrid Rhododendron 
Rhododendron ponticum 

Dwarf Rhododendron 
Skimmia japonica 

Japanese Skimmia 
Viburnum suspensum 

Pink Snowball 
Viburnum tinus 
Laurestinus 



PLANTS FOR SOUTH ATLANTIC STATES 327 

G. Fruit Valuable for Its Colour Effects, The following 
plants bear fruit which makes them useful for ornamental planting. 
The group comprises mainly those species which are better adapted to 
southern conditions. 



Arbutus unedo 

Strawberry Tree 
Ardisia crenulata 

Scallop-leaved Ardisia 
Aucuba japonica 

Japanese Laurel 
Callicarpa americana 

Beauty Fruit 
Celastrus (in variety) 

Bitter-sweet 
Cleyera japonica 

Himalayan Cleyera 
Coriaria japonica 

Japanese Coriaria 
Cornus florida 

Flowering Dogwood 
Cotoneaster (in variety) 

Rose Box 
Cotoneaster francheti 

Franchet's Rose Box 
Cotoneaster frigida 

Rose Box 
Cotoneaster horizontalis 

Prostrate Cotoneaster 
Cotoneaster microphylla 

Small-leaved Cotoneaster 
Cotoneaster simonsi 

Himalayan Rose Box 
Crataegus collina 

Round-fruited Thorn 



Crataegus vailae 

Vail's Haw 
Diospyros virginiana 

Persimmon 
Diospyros kaki 

Persimmon 
Elaeagnus multiflora 

Gumi 
Elaeagnus pungens maculata 

Yellow-spotted Oleaster 
Evonymus bungeanus 

Bunge's Spindle Tree 
Ilex (in variety) 

Holly 
Lonicera (in variety) 

Bush Honeysuckle 
Magnolia grandiflora 

Magnolia 
Magnolia hypoleuca 

Chinese Purple Magnolia 
Magnolia tripetala 

Umbrella Tree 
Nandina domestica 

Japanese Nandina 
Pyracantha coccinea lalandi 

Evergreen Thorn 
Rosa (in variety) 

Native Rose 
Taxus baccata 

English Yew 



H. Specimen Trees and Shrubs. The following groups comprise 
only plants which are most successful when used singly or in small 
groups. 

a. Trees 



Albizzia julibrissin 

Mimosa 
Aleurites fordi 

China Wood-oil Tree 
Aphananthe aspera 

Chinese Hackberry 



Aralia spinosa 

Hercules Club 
Broussonetia papyrijera 

Paper Mulberry 
Carya aquatica 

Water Pecan 



328 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



Carya myristicaeformis 

Nutmeg Hickory 
Carya pecan 

Pecan 
Catalpa bungei 

Round-leaved Catalpa 
Cedrela sinensis 

Chinese Cedrela 
Cephalotaxus fortunei 

Fortune's Yew 
Chilopsis saligna 

Flowering Willow 
Citrus trifoliata 

Hardy Orange 
Cladrastris lutea 

Yellow-wood 
Cornus florida 

Flowering Dogwood 
Diosporos virginiana 

Persimmon 
Fagus americana 

American Beech 
Fraxinus americana acuminata 

Silver-leaved White Ash 
Fraxinus pennsylvanica 

Red Ash 
Ginkgo biloba 

Maidenhair Tree 
Cleditsia japonica 

Japanese Honey Locust 
Cleditsia sinensis 

Chinese Honey Locust 
Cleditsia triacanthos 

Honey Locust 
Gymnocladus dioica 

Kentucky Coffee Tree 
Halesia Carolina 

Silver Bell 
Hovenia dulcis 

Japanese Raisin Tree 
Juglans cinerea 

Butternut 
Juglans sieboldiana 

Japanese Walnut 
Koelreuteria paniculata 

Varnish Tree 
Liquidambar stryaciflua 

Sweet Gum 
Magnolia (in variety) 

Magnolia 



Magnolia acuminata 

Cucumber Tree 
Magnolia denudata 

Yulan Magnolia 
Magnolia grandiflora 

Magnolia 
Magnolia macrophylla 

Great-leaved Magnolia 
Magnolia soulangeana 

Soulange's Magnolia 
Melia azedarach umbraculiformis 

Umbrella Tree 
Nyssa aquatica 

Cotton Gum 
Nyssa sylvatica 

Tupelo 
Oxydendrun arboreum 

Sourwood 
Parkinsonia aculeata 

Jerusalem Thorn 
Paulozvnia tomentosa 

Empress Tree 
Photinia arbutifolia 

Christmas Berry 
Photinia serrulata 

Evergreen Photinia 
Populus alba pyramidalis 

BoUe's Poplar 
Populus deltoides 

Southern Cottonwood 
Populus deltoides monilifera 

Northern Cottonwood 
Prunus cerasifera pissardi 

Purple Plum 
Pterocarya fraxinifolia 

False Walnut 
Pyrus coronaria 

Wild Crab 
Quercus acuta 

Korean Oak 
Quercus falcata 

Spanish Oak 

Quercus laurifolia 

Laurel Oak 
Quercus muhlenbergi 

Yellow Chestnut Oalc 
Quercus nigra 

Water Oak 
Quercus pagodaefolia 

Swamp Spanish Oak 



PLANTS FOR SOUTH ATLANTIC STATES 



329 



Sapium pebiferum 



Si 



Sophora japonica 
Japanese Pagoda Tree 



Ulmus montana pendula 
Camperdown Weeping Elm 



Sterculia platanifolia 
Japanese Varnish Tree 

Taxodiumy distichum 
Bald Copress 



b. Shrubs: 



Aucuba japonica 

Japanese Laurel 
iucuba japonica variegata 

Variegated Japanese Laurel 
Bambusa (in variety) 

Bamboo 
Buddleia (in variety) 

Summer Lilac 
Buxus (in variety) 

Boxwood 
Callicarpa purpurea 

Beauty Fruit 
Camellia japonica 

Japonica 
Caryopteris incana 

Blue Spirea 
Chilopsis linearis 

Flowering Willow 
Chionanthus virginica 

White Fringe 
Cornus capitata 

Himalayan Dogwood 
Corylus maxima purpurea 

Purple-leaved Hazel 
Exochorda grandiflora 

Pearl Bush 
Gardenia (in variety) 

Cape Jasmine 
Hydrangea quercifolia 

Oak-leaved Hydrangea 



Ilex opaca 

American Holly 
Lagerstroemia indica 

Crape Myrtle 
Nerium oleander 

Oleander 
Osmanthus aquijolium 

Fragrant Olive 
Prunus caroliniana 

Carolina Laurel Cherry 
Prunus ilicifolia 

Evergreen Cherry 
Prunus laurocerasus 

English Laurel 
Prunus lyoni 

Islands Cherry 
Rhus coiinus 

Smoke Bush 
Staphylea pinnata 

European Bladder-nut 
Staphylea trifolia 

American Bladder-nut 
Stezvariia peniagyna 

Alleghany Stewartia 
Styrax japonica 

Japanese Storax 
Viburnum tinus 

Laurestinus 
Vitex agnus-castus 

Chaste Tree 



L Perennials for Gardens and Cut Flowers. The following 
group of perennials includes several plants, such as the gladiolus, which 
are not hardy in the open ground in winter in the north. Most of the 
plants are the same sorts which are used elsewhere, but which have 
been selected after experience has shown their adaptability to the 
conditions of this territory. 



Aconitum (in variety^ 

Monkshood 
Adonis vernalis 

Pheasant's Eye 



Alstroemeria chilensis 

Chilean Lily 
Alyssum (in variety) 

Golden Tuft 



330 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



Anchusa (in variety) 

Alkanet 
Anemone coronaria 

Poppy-flowered Anemone 
Anthemis tinctoria kelwayi 

Hardy Marguerite 
Antirrhinum majus 

Snapdragon 
Aquilegia (in variety) 

Columbine 
Argemone (in variety) 

Prickly Poppy 
Artemisia (in variety) 

Wormwood 
Asclepias tuberosa 

Butterfly Weed 
Baptisia (in variety) 

False Indigo 
Dahlia (in variety) 

Garden Dahlia 
Delphinium (in variety) 

Larkspur 
Echinops (in variety) 

Globe Thistle 
Eryngium amethystinum 

Amethyst Sea Holly 
Eupatorium (in variety) 

White Snakeroot 
Filipendula hexapetala 

Herbaceous Meadow-sweet 
Funkia (in variety) 

Plantain Lily 
Gaillardia (in variety) 

Blanket Flower 
Gladiolus (in variety) 

Sword Flower 
Gypsophila (in variety) 

Chalk Plant 
Helenium (in variety) 

Sneezeweed 
Helianthemum (in variety) 

Rock Rose 
Helianthus (in variety) 

Hardy Perennial Sun-flower 



Hesperis matronalis 

Sweet Rocket 
Heuchera sanguinea 

Coral-bells 
Incarvillea delevayi 

Hardy Gloxinea 
Iris (in variety) 

Iris 
Kniphofia uvaria 

Red-hot Poker Plant 
Lithospermum canescens 

Indian Paint 
Lobelia (in variety) 

Lobelia 
Lychnis coronaria 

Mullein Pink 
Oenothera (in variety) 

Evening Primrose 
Paeonia officinalis 

Old-fashioned Peony 
Paeonia suffruticosa 

Tree Peony 
Paeonia tenuifolia 

Fennel-leaved Peony 
Phlox (in variety) 

Garden Phlox 
Platycodon grandiflorum 

Balloon Flower 
Polemonium caeruleum 

American Jacob's Ladder 
Polemonium reptans 

Greek Valerian 
Primula (in variety) 

Primrose 
Pyrethrum coccineum 

Painted Daisy 
Salvia (in variety) 

Sage 
Thalictrum (in variety) 

Meadow-rue 
Veronica (in variety) 

Speedwell 
Viola (in variety) 

Violet 



J. Perennials for Naturalizing in Wild Gardens. The 
plants in this group are common sorts which after trial have proven 
adaptable and useful for naturalizing in this territory. This group 
could be considerably enlarged; but the species named will fill most 
of the requirements of ordinary planting schemes. 



PLANTS FOR SOUTH ATLANTIC STATES 



331 



Aetata (in variety) 

Baneberry 
Adiantum pedatum 

Maidenhair Fern 
Allium moly 

Lily Leek 
Althaea officinalis 

Marsh Mallow 
AmoTpha (in variety) 

False Indigo 
Arabis (in variety) 

Rock Cress 
Armeria (in variety) 

Sea Thrift 
Belamcanda chinensis 

Blackberry Lily 
Centranthus ruber 

Red Valerian 
Cimicifuga racemosa 

Snakeroot 
Dalibarda repens 

Barren Strawberry 
Dentaria diphylla 

Two-leaved Toothwort 
Erythronium americanum 

Adder's tongue 



Fragaria (in variety) 

Wild Strawberry 
Frittilaria meleagris 

Guinea-hen Flower 
Galanthus nivalis 

Common Snowdrop 
Galax aphylla 

Galax 
Habenaria ciliaris 

Yellow-fringed Orchis 
Liatris pycnostachya 

Blazing Star 
Lilium (in variety) 

Lily 
Mertensia virginica 

Bluebell 
Monarda (in variety) 

Bergamot 
Narcissus (in variety) 

Daffodil and Narcissus 
Saxifraga (in variety) 

Stone-breaker 
Sedum (in variety) 

Stonecrop 
Shortia galacifolia 

Shortia 



K. Plants Which Are Commonly and Freely Used in the 
South but Are Not Hardy Farther North. This group comprises 
trees and shrubs which are valuable and may be used in the south with 
safety, but which are not hardy in the north. 



Trees: 



Albizzia julibrissin 

Mimosa 
Aleurites fordi 

China Wood-oil Tree 
Cedrus atlantica 

Mt. Atlas Cedar 
Cedrus deodara 

Deodar 
Cedrus libani 

Cedar of Lebanon 
Libocedrus decurrens 

Incense Cedar 
Magnolia grandiflora 

Magnolia 



Melia azedarach, umbraculiformis 

Umbrella Tree 
Quercus acuta 

Korean Oak 
Quercus laurijolia 

Laurel Oak 
Quercus nigra 

Water Oak 
Quercus phellos 

Willow Oak 
Sophora japonica 

Japanese Pagoda Tree 
Sterculia platanifolia 

Japanese Varnish Tree 



332 
b. Shrubs: 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



Arbutus unedo 

Strawberry Tree 
Ardisia crenulata 

Scallop-leaved Ardisia 
Aucuba japonica 

Japanese Laurel 
Berberis hakeoides 

Chilean Barberry 
Cassia corymbosa 

Argentine Senna 
Chilopsis linearis 

Flowering Willow 
Cleyera japonica 

Himalayan Cleyera 
Gardenia florid a 

Cape Jasmine 
Jasminum primulinum 

Jasmine 
Lagerstroemia indica 

Crape Myrtle 



Ligustrum lucidum 

Shining-leaved Privet 
Ligustrum nepalense 

Nepaul Privet 
Ligustrum quihoui 

Late-blooming Privet 
Ligustrum sinense 

Chinese Privet 
Michelia fuscata 

Banana Shrub 
Nandina domestica 

Japanese Nandina 
Pittosporum tobira 

Tobira Shrub 
Prunus caroliniana 

Carolina Laurel Cherry 
Prunus laurocerasus 

English Laurel 
Thea sinensis 

Tea Plant 



Viburnum tinus 
Laurestinus 



L. Vines for the South. There is an extensive group of vines 
which can be used throughout the far south. Many of the vines so 
common to the north are extremely valuable because of their added 
growth during the longer growing season and their luxuriant foliage 
effects. 



Actinidia chinensis 

Chinese Silver Vine 
Antigonon leptopus 

Mountain Rose 
Berchemia racemosa 

Supple-jack 
Berchemia scandens 

Supple-jack 
Bignonia capreolata 

Cross Flower 
Bignonia chinensis 

Chinese Trumpet Creeper 
Bignonia hybrida 

Hybrid Trumpet Creeper 
Bignonia radicans 

Trumpet Vine 
Celastrus angulatus 

Chinese Bitter-sweet 



Clematis apiifolia 

Parsley-leaved Clematis 
Clematis crispa 

Purple Clematis 
Clematis flammula 

Sweet Clematis 
Clematis texensis 

Texas Clematis 
Clematis viorna 

Leather-flower 
Clematis virginiana 

Wild Clematis 
Fie us pumila 

Climbing Fig 
Gelsemium sempervirens 

Carolina Yellow Jasmine 
Gelsemium sempervirens flore plena 

Double Yellow Jasmine 



PLANTS FOR SOUTH ATLANTIC STATES 



333 



Hedera canariensis 

Algerian Ivy 
Hedera helix 

English Ivy 
Humuius lupulus 

Hop Vine 
Hydrangea petiolaris 

Climbing Hydrangea 
Jasminum officinale 

Jasmine 
Jasminum primulinum 

Jasmine 
Menispermum canadense 

Common Moonseed 
Parthenocissus henryana 

Henry's Ivy 



Passiflora caerulea 

Passion-flower 
Periplnca graeca 

Silk Vine 
Polygonum baldschuanicum 

Knotweed 
Pueraria hirsuta 

Kudzu Vine 
Pyrostegia venusta 

Flame Flower 
Smilax lanceolata 

Florida Smilax 
Solanum jasminoides grandiflorumi 

Jerusalem Cherry Vine 
Trachelospermum jasminoides 

Confederate Jasmine 



CHAPTER XLVI 

PLANTS FOR USE ON THE OREGON AND WASHING- 
TON COASTAL PLAIN 

The planting districts in the northwest are very sharply defined. 
They include (i) the West Slope; that is, between the coast and the 
mountains, or west of the Cascade Range, and (2) eastern and central 
Oregon and eastern Washington; that is, all of the district sometimes 
spoken of as the Inland Empire where conditions show very marked 
changes. The following lists of plants apply only to (i), this being 
all of the territory west of the Cascade Range exclusive of the mountain 
slopes and known as the Oregon and Washington Coastal Plain. No 
effort has been made to compile lists for (2) known as the Inland Em- 
pire. There the rainfall is very much lighter, more snow falls in the 
winter, and much hotter days prevail in the summer, although the 
nights are always cool. 

There is also another separate district spoken of as southern Oregon. 
The elevation here is from one thousand to eighteen hundred feet, with 
conditions much drier than through the Willamette Valley and all 
through western Washington. The factor in southern Oregon which 
appears to control plant growth is water, and if one has plenty of that 
coupled with a reasonable amount of good soil, normal growth can be 
developed. 

Even in western Washington and Oregon the days are fairly warm 
and the nights in most cases are cool. This condition makes itself 
felt very much in the growth of annual vines, because they do not like 
the cool nights. 

This entire western country appears to be the natural home for 
coniferous evergreens and for most of the broad-leaved evergreens. 
They do wonderfully well all through the northwest, west of the 
mountains. Portland has become known as the Rose City. It has 
found one particular thing, however, that is not proving a success. The 
camellia has been largely planted and is generally proving more or less 
disappointing. The mountain laurel should probably be placed in the 

334 



OREGON AND WASHINGTON COASTAL PLAIN 335 

same class. It does not appear to do well and yet rhododendrons 
planted under exactly the same conditions thrive. 

This section of the country is still on the uncharted list so far as 
complete information covering the lists of plants that are adapted to 
this territory is concerned. In addition to those plants which are 
tabulated in the following lists there is a wide range of plants which 
can be selected from the main text of this book, practically all of which 
plants are adapted for use in this territory. 

LIST OF PLANTS FOR USE ON THE OREGON AND WASH- 
INGTON COASTAL PLAIN 

A. Hedges. This group is divided into deciduous and evergreen 
plants. It is noteworthy by reason of the fact that there are more 
broad-leaved plants than deciduous ones. This is not the case in other 
portions of the country, except possibly in the far south. 



a. Deciduous: 

Berberis thunbergi 

Thunberg's Japanese Barberry 
Chaenomdes japonica 

Japanese Quince 
Crataegus oxycaniha 

May Thorn 



Rosa rugosa 
Japanese Rose 



Ligusirum ibota 
Japanese Privet 

Ligusirum ovalijolium 
California Privet 

Ligusirum vulgare 
European Privet 



h. Evergreen: 

Aucuba japonica 

Japanese Laurel 
Chamaecyparis lawsoniana 

Lawson's Cypress 
Ilex aquijolium 

English Holly 
Ilex crenata 

Japanese Holly 
Mahonia aquijolium 

Oregon Grape 



Picea excelsa 

Norway Spruce 
Prunus laurocerasus 

English Laurel 
Prunus lusitanica 

Portugese Laurel 
Pyracantha coccinea 

Evergreen Thorn 
Ulex europaus 

Gorse 



Viburnum tinus 
Laurestinus 



B. Plants for Ground Cover. Practically all of these ground- 
cover plants are evergreen in character; both those adapted to the open 



336 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



sun and those given for use in the shade. No attempt has been made 
to name the herbaceous perennials suitable for this purpose. 



a. Open sun: 

Arctostaphylos uva-ursi 

Bearberry 
Iberis sempervirens 

Evergreen Candytuft 



Pachysandra terminalis 

Japanese Spurge 
Phlox subulata 
Moss Pink 
Saxifraga cordifolia 
Saxifrage 



b. Shade: 

Evonymus radicans 
Climbing Evonymus 

Gaultheria shallon 
Salal 

Hedera helix 
English Ivy 



Lonicera japonica halliana 
Japanese Honeysuckle 

Pachysandra terminalis 
Japanese Spurge 

Vinca minor 
Periwinkle 



C. Plants for Border Planting. The shrubs and trees given 
in the group for refined lawn masses are confined largely to those sorts 
which are not generally available throughout the east for border plant- 
ing by reason of their soil and moisture requirements. The native 
collected plants are very similar to the same sort of material found 
throughout the northern central states. 



a. Refined lawn masses: 

Ahelia grandiflora 

Hybrid Abelia 
Acer palmatum 

Japanese Maple 
Azalea hinodigiri 

Crimson Evergreen Azalea 
Azalea indica 

Indian Azalea 
Berberis buxifolia 

Box-leaved Barberry 
Berberis darwini 

Darwin's Barberry 
Berberis ilicifolia 

Holly-leaved Barberry 
Calluna vulgaris 

Scotch Heather 
Cornus mas 

Cornelian Cherry 



Cornus paniculata 

Grey Dogwood 
Cotoneaster francheti 

Franchet's Rose Box 
Cotoneaster simonsi 

Himalayan Rose Box 
Deutzia gracilis 

Slender Deutzia 
Diervilla hybrida 

Hybrid Weigela 
Enkianthus perulaius 

Enkianthus 
Erica mediterranea 

Pink Heather 
Forsythia suspensa Jortunei 

Fortune's Golden Bell 
Lonicera maacki 

Late-blooming Honeysuckle 



OREGON AND WASHINGTON COASTAL PLAIN 337 



Philadelphus lemoinei 
Lemoine's Mock Orange 

Pieris floribunda 

Mountain Fetterbush 

Prunus triloba 
Flowering Plum 



Spiraea vanhouitei 

Van Houtte's Bridal Wreath 
Syrinsa vulgaris hybrida 

Hybrid Lilac 
Viburnum carlesi 

Korean Viburnum 



h. Native and collected plants: 

Acer circinatum 

Vine Maple 
Calycanthus floridus 

Strawberry Shrub 
Clethra alnifolia 

Sweet Pepper Bush 
Cornus nuttalli 

Oregon Dogwood 
Cornus stolonifera 

Red Osier Cornel 
Eleagnus angustifolia 

Russian Olive 
Holodiscus discolor ariaefolius 

Ocean Spray 



Philadelphus lewisi 

Native Mock Orange 
Rhus glabra 

Smooth Sumac 
Rosa blanda 

Meadow Rose 
Rosa lucida 

Glossy Rose 
Symphoricarpos racemosus 

Snowberry 
Symphoricarpos vulgaris 

Indian Currant 
Viburnum americanum 

American High-bush Cranberry 



D. Street and Avenue Planting. This group with the excep- 
tion of the Oregon maple and the thornless locust is practically identi- 
cal with a similar group for any portion of the northern and eastern 
states. 



Acer macrophyllum 

Oregon Maple 
Acer platanoides 

Norway Maple 
Acer pseudoplatanus 

Sycamore Maple 
Aesculus hippocastanum rubicunda 

Red Flowering Horse-chestnut 
Fraxinus americana 

White Ash 



Platanus orientalis 

Oriental Plane 
Quercus coccinea 

Scarlet Oak 
Robinia pseudacacia bessoniana 

Thornless Locust 
Tilia euchlora 

Crimean Linden 
Ulmus americana 

American Elm 



E. Plants for Heavily Shaded Locations. This group con- 
tains only plants native to this portion of the country and some of the 
better known plants given in previous lists. 



Abies balsamea 

Balsam Fir 
Calycanthus floridus 

Strawberry Shrub 



Chaenomeles japonica 
Japanese Quince 

Gaultheria shallon 
Salal 



338 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



Lonicera morrowi 

Japanese Bush Honeysuckle 
Mahonia nervosa 

Dwarf Oregon Grape 
Philadelphus gordonianus 

Gordon's Mock Orange 



Philadelphus lewisi 
Native Mock Orange 

Pinus strobus 
White Pine 

Sambucus canadensis 
American Elder 



Tsuga canadensis 
Canadian Hemlock 



F. Plants Valuable for Autumn Colouration of Leaves. 
The plants in this group are selected for their use to furnish colour in 
the landscape in autumn and special attention is called to the vine 
maple and Oregon dogwood which are not available in other sections 
of the country. 



Acer circinatum 

Vine Maple 
Acer ginnala 

Siberian Maple 
Acer rubrum 

Red Maple 
Betula alba 

European White Birch 
Betula lenta 

Black Birch 
Berberis thunbergi 

Japanese Barberry 
Berberis wilsonae 

Wilson's Barberry 



Cornus nuttalli 

Oregon Dogwood 
Evonymus alatus 

Cork-barked Burning Bush 
Ligustrum amurense 

Amoor River Privet 
Quercus coccinea 

Scarlet Oak 
Rhus glabra 

Smooth Sumac 
Stephanandra flexuosa 

Stephanandra 
Tilia vulgaris 

Common Linden 



G. Vines. This group 
previously given and shows 
available in this territory. 

Ampelopsis engelmanni 

Englemann's Ampelopsis 
Ampelopsis tricuspidata veitchi 

Boston Ivy 
Bignonia radicans 

Trumpet Vine 
Celastrus orbiculatus 

Japanese Bitter-sweet 
Clematis moniana 

White Clematis 
Clematis montana rubra 

Red Clematis 
Clematis paniculata 

Japanese Clematis 



of vines is very similar to the group 
the large number of species which are 



Evonymus radicans 

Climbing Evonymus 
Hedera helix 

English Ivy 
Jasminum nudiflorum 

Naked-flowered Jasmine 
Jasminum primulinum 

New Chinese Jasmine 
Lonicera japonica halliana 

Japanese Honeysuckle 
Lonicera periclymenum belgica 

Dutch Honeysuckle 
Polygonum baldschuanicum 

Knotweed 



OREGON AND WASHINGTON COASTAL PLAIN 339 



Pueraria thunhergiana 
Kudzu Vine 



Wisteria sinensis 
Chinese Wisteria 



Wisteria multijuga 
Japanese Wisteria 



H. Evergreens Most Used. Among the plants grouped here 
will be found many coniferous and broad-leaved evergreens which it is 
not safe to use as far north as this in any other portion of the United 
States. Among these, in particular, are the cedar of Lebanon, Lawson's 
cypress, yellow cypress, hybrid abelia, and Portugese and English 
laurels. 



a. Conifers: 

Abies concolor 

White Fir 
Abies grandis 

Silver Fir 
Abies nohilis 

Red Fir 
Cedrus ailaniica 

Mt. Atlas Cedar 
Cedrus deodora 

Deodar 
Cedrus lihani 

Cedar of Lebanon 
Chamaecyparis lawsoniana 

Lawson's Cypress 
Chamaecyparis nootkatensis 

Yellow Cedar 
Picea engelmanni 

Engelmann's Spruce 
Picca sitchensis 

Sitka Spruce 
Pinus atienuata 

Knot-cone Pine 
Pinus contorta 

Oregon Pine 



Pinus monticola 

Mountain White Pine 
Pinus nigra austriaca 

Austrian Pine 
Pinus ponderosa 

Bull Pine 
Pinus radiata 

Monterey Pine 
Pinus strobus 

White Pine 
Pinus sylvestris 

Scotch Pine 
Pseudotsuga douglasi 

Douglas Fir 
Chamaecyparis (all species) 

Japanese Cypress 
Taxus baccata 

English Yew 
Taxus baccata fastigiata 

Irish Yew 
Taxus brevifolia 

Western Yew 
Tsuga heterophylla 

Western Hemlock 



b. Broad-leaved: 

Abelia grandiflora 
Hybrid Abelia 

Arbutus menziesi 
Madrona 

Aucuba japonica 
Japanese Laurel 



Berheris buxifolia 
Box-leaved Barberry 

Berberis ilicifolia 

Holly-leaved Barberry 

Berberis stenophylla 
Small-leaved Barberry 



34° 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



Cotoneaster francheti 

Franchet's Rose Box 
Cotoneaster horizontalis 

Prostrate Cotoneaster 
Cotoneaster microphylla 

Small-leaved Cotoneaster 
Ilex aquifolium 

English Holly 
Ilex crenata 

Japanese Holly 
Ligustrum japonicum 

Evergreen Privet 



Osmanthus aquifolium 

Fragrant Olive 
Photinia glabra 

Japanese Photinia 
Pieris floribunda 

Mountain Fetterbush 
Prunus laurocerasus 

English Laurel 
Prunus lusitanica 

Portuguese Laurel 
Rhododendron catawbiense hybridum 

Hybrid Rhododendron 



BIBLIOGRAPHY 



BIBLIOGRAPHY 

The following is a compilation of the more important practical books on 
various subjects relating to landscape plantings and of interest to the gar- 
dener and to the owner of private estates. An effort has been made to in- 
clude a reference list of some of the more important articles which have 
appeared from time to time in different magazines, as discussions on these sub- 
jects. An attempt has been made in compiling this list of references not to 
cover the entire field of literature written on these subjects, but to include 
only a sufficient number of books of real value from which information can be 
readily obtained. 

The author does not wish to imply that there are not many other interest- 
ing publications pertaining to this subject matter. It is imperative, however, 
that this list should not become overburdened, and yet, if references have 
been omitted which should have been included, any suggestions or corrections 
will be welcome. 

BOOKS 

Botany 

Manual of the Flora of the Northern States and Canada, by N. L. 

Britton. 
Field, Forest and Garden Botany, by Asa Gray. 
Official Catalog of Plant Names, by American Joint Committee on 

Horticultural Nomenclature. 

Bulbs 

Daffodils, by Joseph Jacob. 

The Bulb Book, by John Weathers. 

Bulb Culture, by Henderson. 

Bulb Garden, by Grace Tabor. 

The Book of Bulbs, by S. Arnott. 

Bulbs and Tuberous-Rooted Plants, by C. L. Allen. 

Daffodils, Narcissus, and How to Grow Them, by M. Kirby. 

Tulips, by Joseph Jacob. 

Evergreens and Rhododendrons 

Evergreens and How to Grow Them, by C. L. Harrison. 

The Rhododendron and American Plants, by E. S. Rand, Jr. 

Handy Book of Ornamental Conifers and Rhododendrons, by H. 

Eraser. 
Hedges and Evergreens, by J. A. Warder. 
Rhododendrons and Azaleas, by Wm. Watson. 
343 



344 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

Flower Gardens (Perennials and Annuals) 

The Book of Perennials, by H. H. Saylor. 

The Book of Annuals, by H. H. Saylor. 

Color Schemes in the Flower Garden, by Gertrude Jekyll. 

The Flower Garden, by Ida Bennett. 

The American Flower Garden, by Neltje Blanchan. 

The English Flower Garden, by W. Robinson. 

Flower Gardening, by H. S. Adams. 

Familiar Flowers of Field and Garden, by F. S. Matthews. 

Color in My Garden, by Louise B. Wilder. 

Irises, by W. R. Dykes. 

The Book of the Peony, by Mrs. Edward Harding. 

Our Garden Flowers, by Harriet L. Keeler. 

The Garden, Month by Month, by Mabel Sedgwick. 

Flower Gardens — A Selected List of Books, The New York Public 

Library (January, 1915). 
The Garden Blue Book, by L. B. Holland. 
Popular Garden Flowers, by Walter Page Wright. 
Garden Flowers of Spring, Summer, Autumn, and Winter, by Ellen E. 

Shaw, edited by Leonard Barron. 

Forestry 

Forest Mensuration, by H. S. Graves. 

Foresters' Manual, by E. T. Seton. 

Principles of American Forestry, by S. B. Green. 

Practical Forestry, by John GifFord. 

Practical Forestry, by Andrew S. Fuller. 

Principles of Handling Woodlands, by H. S. Graves. 

A List of Books on Trees and Forestry, Boston Public Library, 1899. 

Garden Architecture 

The Practical Book of Garden Architecture, by Phoebe W. Humphrey. 
The Book of Garden Furniture, by Charles Thonger. 
Garden Ornaments, by Gertrude Jekyll. 
Italian Gardens, by Inigo Triggs. 

Herb Gardens 

The Herb Garden, by Frances A. Bardwell. 

The Book of the Scented Garden, by F. W. Burbridge. 

Japanese Gardens 

The Art of Landscape Gardening in Japan, by Josiah Conder. 
Landscape Gardening in Japan, by Josiah Conder. 
The Flowers and Gardens of Japan, by Florence Du Cane. 
Japanese Flower Arrangement Applied to Western Needs, by Mary 
Averill. 



BIBLIOGRAPHY 345 

Lawns 

Lawns and How to Make Them, by Leonard Barron. 

Making a Lawn, by Luke J. Doogue. 

Turf for Golf Courses, by Piper and Oakley. 

Miscellaneous 

The New Gardening, by Walter P. Wright. 

Catalog of the Codman Collection of Books on Landscape Gardening, 

Boston Public Library, 1899. 
The Landscape Beautiful, by F. A. Waugh. 
Practical Landscape Gardening, by Robert B. Cridland. 
Gardening for Beginners, by E. T. Cook. 
Farm and Garden Rule Book, by L. H. Bailey. 
Manual of Gardening, by L. H. Bailey. 
Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture, by L. H. Bailey. 
Gardeners' Dictionary, by G. W. Johnson. 
The Book of Topiary, by C. H. Curtis and W. Gibson. 
My Growing Garden, by J. Horace MacFarland. 
Book of Garden Plans, by Stephen F. Hamblin. 

Native Plants 

Wild Flowers of New England, by Lincoln. 

Ferns and How to Grow Them, by G. A. Woolson. 

Ferns and Their Haunts, by W. N. Clute. 

The Book of Choice Ferns, by G. Schneider. 

An Illustrated Flora, by N. L. Britton and Addison Brown. 

Our Northern Shrubs, by Harriet L. Keeler. 

Silva of North America, by C. S. Sargent. 

Field Book of American Trees and Shrubs, by F. S. Mathews. 

Pennsylvania Trees, by J. S. Illick. 

Plant Life of Alabama, by Charles Mohr. 

Tree Book, by Julia E. Rogers. 

Trees and Shrubs of Northeastern America, by C. S. Newhall. 

Wild Flowers of the North American Mountains, by Julia W. Henshaw. 

Key to Trees of Northeastern United States and Canada, by Collin 

and Preston. 
A Guide to the Wild Flowers, by Alice Lounsberry. 

Ornamental Trees and Shrubs 

Aristocrats of the Garden, by E. H. Wilson. 
Trees and Shrubs, by C. S. Sargent. 

Ornamental Shrubs of the United States, by A. G. Apgar. 
Garden Trees and Shrubs, by W. P. Wright. 
Shade Trees in Towns and Cities, by William Solataroff. 
Ornamental Shrubs for Garden, Lawn, and Park Planting, by L, D. 
Davis. 



346 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

Plant Diseases 

Fungus Diseases of Plants, by B. M. Duggar. 

Injurious Insects of the Farm and Garden, by Mrs. Mary Treat. 

Spraying of Plants, by E. G. Lodeman. 

Insects and Insecticides, by C. M. Weed. 

Propagation of Plants 

Plant Propagation, by Alfred C. Hottes. 

Plant Culture, by George W. Oliver. 

Nursery Book, by L. H. Bailey. 

Plant Breeding, by L. H. Bailey. 

Plant Physiology, With Special Reference to Plant Production, by B. 

M. Duggar. 
Plant Propagation, by M. G. Kains. 
Art of Propagation, by J. Jenkins. 

Pruning 

Pruning Manual, by L. H. Bailey. 

Principles and Practice of Pruning, by M. G. Kains. 

Rock Gardens 

Alpine Flowers and Rock Gardens, by Walter P. Wright. 

Alpine Flowers for Gardens, Rock, Wall, Marsh Plants and Mountain 

Shrubs, by W. Robinson. 
Making a Rock Garden, by H. L. Adams. 
The Small Rock Garden, by F. H. Jenkins. 
My Rock Garden, by R. J. Farrer. 

Roses 

Roses, by H. R. Darlington. 

Roses, Their History, Development, and Cultivation, by J. H. 

Pemberton. 
The Rose, by H. B. Ellwanger. 
Parsons, On the Rose, by S. B. Parsons. 

The Practical Book of Outdoor Rose Growing, by Geo. C. Thomas, Jr. 
A Book about Roses, by S. Reynolds Hole. 
Roses and Rose Gardens, by W. P. Wright. 
Everblooming Roses for the Outdoor Garden of the Amateur, by G. T. 

Drennan. 



Street Trees 

Field Book for Street Tree Mapping, by William SolatarofF. 
Trees in Lawn, Street, and Park, by B. E. Fernow. 



BIBLIOGRAPHY 



347 



Trees and Shrubs (Winter Characters and Form) 

New England Trees in Winter, by Blakeslee and Jarvis. 
Handbook of Trees of the Northern States and Canada, by Romeym 
B. Hough. 

Vines 

Climbing Plants, by W. Watson. 

Book of Climbing Plants, by S. Arnott. 

Vines and How to Grow Them, by William McCollum. 

A Concise Handbook of Climbers, Twiners, and Wall Shrubs, by H. P. 

Fitzgerald. 
Vines of Northeastern America, by C. S. Newhall. 

Wall Gardens 

Wall and Water Gardens, by Gertrude Jekyll. 

Water Gardens 

The Book of Water Gardening, by Peter Bisset. 

Rock and Water Gardens, by Charles Thonger. 

Making a Water Garden, by William Tricker. 

Water Lilies and Aquatics, by Peter Henderson. 

Water Lilies and How to Grow Them, by Conrad and Hus. 

Winter Protection 

Hedges, Shelters, Windbreaks, and Stone Fences, by E. P. Powell. 



ARTICLES 

PRUNING (ornamental FLOWERING TREES, SHRUBS, VINES, AND PERENNIALS) 
TITLE OF ARTICLE AUTHOR MAGAZINE REFERENCE DATE 

Winter Pruning and Rockwell American Homes and Jan., 1913 

Spraying Gardens 

Street Trees, Their A. D. Taylor Cornell Exper. Station Bull. 256 

Care and Preserva- 



tion 

Pruning: A Fitting Kains 
Winter Activity 

Pruning Shrubs and Barnes 
Roses 

Pruning Table 

Suggestions for Shrub Rose 
Trimming in Win- 
ter 



Garden Magazine 

Suburban Life 

Suburban Life 
Suburban Life 



Dec, 191 6 

Apr., 191 1 

Mar., 1914 
Dec, 191 2 



348 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



TITLE OF ARTICLE AUTHOR MAGAZINE REFERENCE 

Right Way to Trim a SolatarofF Suburban Life 
Tree 

Pruning Missouri Botanical 

Garden Bulletin 
Vol. VI, No. 9 



DATE 

Apr., 1909 



Nov., 1918 



TRANSPLANTING TREES, SHRUBS, VINES, AND PERENNIALS 

Oct., 1918 



How to Succeed with Lurie 
Fall Planting 

Fall Planting for Pendleton 
Spring Flowers 

Experiences in Mid- 
summer Transplant- 
ing 

Planting and Shaping Whitten 
Young Trees 

Planting Trees by 
Machine 

Planting the Perennial Weed 
Border 

Fall Heeling-in for Tuthill 
Spring Planting 

Transplanting Big 
Trees 

Transplanting Out of Meller 
Season 

September Transplant- 
ing 

Perennials for Fall 
Planting 

How to Plant Trees Johnson 
and Shrubs 

Making a Success of Piatt 
Tree Planting 

Transplanting Large McLaughlin 
Trees 

Planting and Seeding Taylor 
Seasons 



Garden Magazine 
Garden Magazine 
Garden Magazine 



Oct., 1918 
July, 1918 



Garden Magazine Apr., 1915 

Scientific American Nov., 1916 

House Beautiful Aug., 1916 

Garden Magazine Oct., 1916 

Garden Magazine Feb., 1917 

Garden Magazine July, 191 7 

House Beautiful Sept., 1917 

Countryside Maga- Dec, 1914 

zine 
Suburban Life 



Suburban Life 

Countryside Maga 
zine 

Landscape Archi- 
tecture 

Garden Magazine 



Mar., 1908 
Sept., 1914 
Nov., 1915 
Apr., 1919 
Mar., 1920 



MAINTENANCE OF PLANTING AND LAWNS 



Green Grass in Dry Rockwell 
Weather 



Country Life 



Aug., 1916 



BIBLIOGRAPHY 



349 



TITLE OF ARTICLE 


AUTHOR 


MAGAZINE REFERENCE 


DATE 


Getting the Lawn 


Oldcastle 


Suburban Life 


Apr., 191 2 


into Shape and 








Keeping it so 








Summer Care of the 


Bourne 


Suburban Life 


June, 1908 


Lawn 









WINTER PROTECTION AND MULCHING 



den's Winter Clothes 
To Protect Flowers 

From Frost 
Putting the Garden 

into Its Winter 

Quarters 
Winter Protection 
Winter Protection in 

the Garden 
Timely Fall Work in Rexford 

the Border 
Don't Hurry Winter 

Protection of Roses 



^m. C. McCo 


Hum House and Garden 


Dec, 


1918 


Sinclair 


Draftsman 


Dec, 


1914 


Farrington 


Countryside Maga- 
zine 


Oct., 


1916 


Meller 
Barnes 


Garden Magazine 
Suburban Life 


Nov., 
Nov., 


. 1917 
, 1910 


Rexford 


Suburban Life 


Nov., 


1911 




Garden Magazine 


Oct., 


1918 



Fall Planting of 

Spring Bulbs 
Planting Bulbs for Mrs. Strang 

Spring Bloom 
Naturalizing Spring- Weed 

Flowering Bulbs 
Planting Tables for 

Bulbs Indoors and 

Outdoors 
All Summer Bulb Garden Farring- 
ton 
Summer-blooming Bulbs Rockwell 

for Spring Planting 
The Fall Budget and Mrs. Strang 

Its Springtime 

Yield 
Bulbs and Tuberous 

Plants 



Craftsman 

Garden Magazine 

House Beautiful 

Countryside Maga- 
zine 

Countryside Maga- 
zine 

Countryside Maga- 
zine 

House and Garden 



Missouri Botanical 
Garden Bulletin 
Vol. IV. No. 9 



Oct., 191 5 
Oct., 1915 
Oct., 1916 
Sept., 1916 

Apr., 1916 
Apr., 191S 
Oct., 1918 

Sept., 1916 



3 so 



THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



ARTICLES— MISCELLANEOUS 



TITLE OF ARTICLE 


AUTHOR 


MAGAZINE REFERENCE 


DATE 


The Best Hardy Coni- 
fers 
Evergreens for the 


Wilson 


The Garden 


Dec, 


191S 


Wild 


House and Garden 


Sept., 


, 1914 


Home Grounds 










Evergreens for the 


Allen 


House and Garden 


Sept., 


. 191S 


Home Landscape 










The Uses, Choice, and 


Mrs. Strang 


House and Garden 




1918 


Planting of Ever- 










greens 










Native Plants Suitable 




Missouri Botanical 






for the Gardens of 




Garden Bulletin 


Vol. VIII 


Missouri and Ad- 










joining States 










Making an Old-Fash- 


Mrs. Strang 


House and Garden 


July, 


1917 


ioned Garden 










The Perennials or Old- 


Wild 


House and Garden 


Oct., 


1914 


Fashioned Garden 










Planning Features for 


Hamblin 


The Garden 


Feb., 


191S 


Garden Special Ef- 










fects 










The Garden of Wild 


Mrs. Strang 


House and Garden 


Sept., 


1918 


.1 Flowers 










Gardens of Sweet 


Burke 


House and Garden 


Mar., 


1915 


Odour 










Hardy Perennials for 


Richie 


The Garden 


Feb., 


1915 


Landscape Use 










One Hundred Native 


Taylor 


The Garden 


May, 


191S 


Perennials for the 










Wild Garden 










Roses and How to 


Rockwell 


House and Garden 


April, 


1913 


Grow Them 










Have We Lost Some- 


Barron 


Country Life 


June, 


1914 


thing in Roses 










Hardy Shrubs That 


Gibson 


Gardener's Chron- 


Oct., 


1919 


Can Be Forced 




icle 






Finding the Shrub to 


Richie 


The Garden 


Apr., 


1915 


Fit the Place 










Dual Purpose Shrubs 


Garrington 


Country Life 


Mar., 


1920 


and Trees 










Shrubs with Brightly 


Miller 


Country Life 


Dec, 


191S 


Coloured Twigs 











BIBLIOGRAPHY 



351 



TITLE OF ARTICLE 

Trees and Shrubs 
Worth Planting for 
Their Conspicuously 
Ornamental Fruits 

Ornamental Flowering 
Trees 

The Peril of Our Shade 

Trees 
Some Trees and Shrubs 

for Trying Sites 



AUTHOR 


MAGAZINE REFERENCE 


DATE 


Wilson 


The Garden 


Oct., 1915 


Porter 


Gardener's 
Chronicle 

Country Life 


Apr., May, 

June, 
July, 1920 
Mar., 1916 




The Garden 


Mar., 1914 



GLOSSARY 



GLOSSARY 

The author has attempted in this glossary to compile a set of terms or 
words commonly used in landscape literature pertaining to general planting 
design. Landscape architecture is one of the younger professions. It has no 
distinct vocabulary so recognized by the dictionary of to-day. 

Such words as establish, naturalize, open allee, pleached allee, puddle, and 
leggy as applied to the language of this profession require a definition other 
than those commonly given to such words. The definitions here given are 
those which are generally accepted by practicing landscape architects. 

No attempt has been made to define a large group of other words which are 
used in the general field of landscape construction work as differentiated from 
planting design and its execution. 

Accent Plant: 

A plant used to give prominence to its location either because of 
peculiarly interesting habit of growth, characteristics of fruit or of 
flowers or foliage. 

Acclimatize: 

V. To make accustomed to a climate to which a plant is not native. 

Acid Soil: 

A soil containing an excess of uncombined acids. Any acid soil is 
objectionable (even when only very slightly acid) to most plants, 
except ericaceous plants. Changes blue litmus paper to red. 

Agricultural Lime: 

An unstandardized product from the unburned cores of lime kilns> 
mixed with other better material but rarely having a better value than 
fine pulverized limestone. 

Air-slaked Lime: 

Is the compound formed by the action of carbon dioxide, from the 
air, on hydrated lime. Its formula is (Ca C O), or the same as pure lime- 
stone. 

Alkaline Soil: 

A soil containing an excess of uncombined alkali, lime, magnesia, 
sodium carbonate, etc. A good soil should be very slightly alkaline. 
Changes red litmus paper to blue. 

3SS 



356 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

AUee, open: 

A way framed on either side by symmetrical rows of closely planted 
trees or tall shrubs (of a height not less than twice the width between 
rows), and so maintained that either side presents a continuous vertical 
wall of close-growing foliage. 

Allee, pleached: 

A way framed on either side by symmetrical rows of closely planted 
trees or shrubs, so maintained that the branches of the continuous 
walls of close-growing foliage arch and interweave across the top of 
the way, at a height of not less than seven or eight feet. 

Annuals: 

Plants which develop from seeds each year, mature, produce 
ripened seed, and die during the same growing season. 

Alpine Plants: 

Plants adapted to living in exposed situations but requiring a constant 
seepage of cool water through the soil surrounding their roots. Alpine 
plants are not drought-resisting. 

Anthracnose: 

A plant disease caused by a parasitic fungus of one definite class 
{melanconiae). 

Arborescent Shrubs: 

Those plants on the borderline between shrubs and trees. 

Ball: 

In transplanting work it is the mass of earth containing the roots of a 
plant, and it is transplanted with the plant to its new location. 

Ball-and-Burlap : 

The process of covering a ball of earth, containing the roots of a plant, 
with burlap or other bagging so that the plant may be safely transported 
a considerable distance without losing the earth from about its roots. 

Bedding Plants: 

Herbaceous plants selected for the purpose of producing a solid ground 
cover of flowers or foliage as a part of a definite design in a refined 
garden or lawn development. 

Bell-glass: 

A bell-shaped glass used to cover small plants growing in the open, as 
a protection from wind and rain and frequent temperature changes. 



GLOSSARY 357 

Biennials: 

Plants which require two years to produce ripened seed. They form 
buds at the crown of the root at the end of the first season. The next 
season they bear ripened seed, and the plants die. 

Blight: 

A diseased condition caused by a parasitic fungus. 

Bog Garden: 

A garden composed largely of bog-loving plants. A garden on a rela- 
tively low area consisting of a continuously wet, peaty soil, but not 
containing stagnant water. 

Budding: 

The insertion of a bud from one plant (together with some live sur- 
rounding tissue) beneath the bark'of another plant so that the cambium 
layers join and grow together. 



Bulb: 



A subterranean leaf-bud consisting usually of several fleshy scales. 



Calcium Oxide: 

A compound resulting from the burning of limestone containing, when 
pure, 40 parts of calcium and 16 parts of oxygen by weight. It is also 
known as fresh burned or quicklime. 

Callus: 

The new tissue which forms over a wound as over the end of a cutting; 
a protective measure provided in nature; but not always an indication 
that the cutting will produce roots. 

Cambium, or cambium layer: 

The soft, very thin tissue lying between the bark and the woody tissue. 
This is the tissue from which new wood originates and is the only truly 
live portion of the stem of a plant. Plant food rises from roots to leaves 
through the cells on the inner half of the cambium layer and returns 
from the leaves downward as available plant food through cells on the 
outer half of the cambium layer. 

Canker: 

An area attacked by a parasitic fungus. 

Carpet bedding: 

A design of plants which form a close mat on the surface of the ground 
and respond to severe cutting back, as distinguished from ground- 
cover plants which may stand several inches above the ground. 



358 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

Clay: 

Earthy material (occurring in nature), whose chief property is plasticity 
when wet. The size of particles varies from 1-50CX) to 1-25000 of an 
inch in diameter. Bakes and cracks freely when dried out. 

Clay Loam: 

A loam soil containing a predominance of clay. 

Clump: 

A cluster of roots or bulbs or tubers capable of being divided into 
separate plants or of producing one large mass of plants resembling a 
single plant. 

Collected Stock: 

Plants which have been taken from their native habitat and shipped 
direct from the collecting ground to the new location. These require 
more care and are subject to greater loss than nursery-grown stock. 

Cold Frame: 

An unheated, outdoor, covered plant house, generally covered with 
glazed sash; but sometimes prepared paper or cloth is used. No ma- 
nure is used in the soil at bottom of a cold frame. Cold frames are most 
frequently used as a transition space in the hardening-ofF process. 

Compost: 

A soil made by mixing loam with decayingorganiccompounds and some- 
times inorganic fertilizers, allowing nitrification and oxidation to 
proceed; but preventing plant growth until a very rich soil is produced. 

Congested: 

A term applied in planting to a situation having impure air or 
restricted feeding area for roots, or both. 

Conifer: 

A plant which bearsits seeds in a cone. With the exception of the 
ginkgo, the larches, and the bald cypress practically all conifers are 
evergreen needle-bearing plants, as the pine, spruce, and fir. (See 
Evergreen.) 

Cover Crop: 

A herbaceous crop sown to cover the ground temporarily and thus 
protect it from atmospheric and water action; generally plowed under 
for its fertilizing value. 



GLOSSARY 359 

Creeping Plants: 

Those plants whose stems run along either on or under the ground 
and root at intervals. 

Crevice Plants: 

Those plants with tenacious root systems adapted for use in the 
narrow and congested soil areas between flagstones in a walk or between 
stones in a dry wall. 

Cross Fertilization: 

The conveyance of pollen from one flower to another. 

Crown, of bulbs or other herbaceous plants: 

The persistent portion of the stem which bears the buds which form 
the next stem. 

Cuttings: 

Detached leaf buds or portions of branches which are capable under 
favourable circumstances of forming new plants when placed in a moist, 
warm soil. 

Deciduous: 

Plants that drop their leaves each fall and produce a complete new 
set of leaves each spring. 

Dehorn : 

To remove a portion of the top of a plant, leaving only short portions 
of the main branches. 

Design Bedding: 

A design of herbaceous plants used for the purpose of producing a 
definite eflfect from their flowers and not their foliage, and allowed to 
continue their normal growth without being cut back. 

Dibble: 

A pointed implement of wood or metal used to make holes in the 
ground, especially for plants, seeds, or bulbs. 

Dividing: 

The propagation of plants by separating the roots; more especially 
the dividing of bulbous and tuberous plants into several plants. 

Dormant: 

A resting condition of plants when growth is not active and the flow of 
sap is stopped. 



36o THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

Double Flowers: 

Commonly the result of the substitution of brightly coloured 
petals for stamens or pistils. A perfect double flower has no stamens 
or pistils, hence is sterile and the plant must be propagated by cuttings. 

Drainage for plants: 

The carrying away of excess water from the soil in which plants are 
placed. This drainage promotes a deep root system, which aids the 
plant in surviving periods of drought; it also prevents a soil from 
becoming water-soaked and "drowning" the root system, especially 
of newly transplanted stock. 

Dry Wall: 

A wall constructed of individual stones with loam filling the crevices 
between them. Such a wall may be used either as a retaining wall 
to support an embankment of earth or against an earth slope to pre- 
vent unnecessary erosion. 

Ericaceous: 

A family of plants which require for their normal growth an acid soil 
(a soil free from lime or magnesium). 

Establish: 

The act of transplanting any plant to a new location and causing root 
growth which makes the plant as capable in its new location as in its 
old location, of continuing normal growth. 

Evergreen: 

Plants with persistent leaves. These plants drop but a small portion 
of the old leaves each year, and may be conifers, broad-leaved ever- 
greens, or opposite-leaved evergreens. 

Excurrent: 

Having a main stem extending up through the top of the plant. 

Fertilizer: 

Plant food, either directly available, or which upon nitrification will 
be available for use by the plant. Many fertilizers (such as sheep 
manure and dried blood) contain plant food in an immediately soluble 
form for plant requirements or in a form (such as bone meal and lime 
rock) which does not become available until after a period of chemical 
reaction. 



GLOSSARY 361 

Field -grown Stock: 

Nursery-grown stock which is grown in the field, as distinguished from 
plants grown in pots, in cold frames, or under other especially favour- 
able and artificial conditions, which tend to make better looking 
specimens, but usually less hardy plants. Thus, field-grown plants 
are often more desirable, even though not nearly as good looking 
specimens. 

Fillers: 

Short-lived or rapidly growing plants temporarily planted between 
permanent plants as in orchards or in mass plantings. 

Fire blight: 

^ A bacterial disease. 

Flat: 

A shallow box, averaging in depth from three to four inches, to receive 
soil in which to plant seeds, or to start cuttings. 

Flowering on new wood: 

A term used in referring to plants which bear flowers on wood grown 
that same season. Hence they are mostly late-summer and fall- 
flowering plants and should be pruned in late winter or early spring be- 
fore growth begins. 

Flowering on old wood: 

A term used in referring to plants which bear flowers on wood formed 
the previous year, hence mostly spring-flowering plants. They should 
always be pruned immediately after the period of bloom is completed. 
(Never prune in early spring.) 

Force: 

V. To stimulate growth by artificial means such as heat, light, and 
fertilizers. Usually adopted for the purpose of obtaining fruits or 
flowers of unusual size or quantity either in season or out of season. 

Forcing: 

The acceleration of growth by gradually increasing temperature, water 
supply, and quickly available plant food such as sodium nitrate. 

Frame : 

> See Cold frame or Hot-bed. 

Fresh-burned Lime: 

See calcium oxide. 



362 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

Friable: 

Easily crumbled, mellow, allowing free and unobstructed root develop- 
ment. A term used in describing a condition of soil. 

Frozen Ball: 

A solidly frozen ball of earth containing a major part of the root sys- 
tem of a plant (usually a tree) which is being transplanted. Ball of 
earth must be frozen sufficiently solid so that it will not split during 
normal transplanting operations. 

Fungus : 

A flowerless plant not containing chlorophyll and generally parasitic 
upon another living plant. 

Furrow: 

A shallow trench made by or as by a plow. 

Gall: 

An abnormal swelling or excrescence caused by gall flies. 

Gas Lime: 

Is a mixture of slaked lime or calcium hydrate, and carbonate of lime, 
together with sulphites and sulphides of lime. These last are injurious 
to young plant life until they have been exposed to the air for some 
time. Gas lime usually contains 40 per cent, of calcium oxide and 
sometimes a small percentage of nitrogen. 

Girdle: 

n. An incision or several incisions which sever the cambium layer of a 
woody plant to the woody tissue and for the whole circumference of the 
stem. It may be a circular cut, a spiral cut, or may consist of sev- 
eral cuts more or less widely separated, but whose horizontal projection 
would form a closed circle, v. To kill a tree by girdling it. 

Ground Cover: 

Small plants or vines, usually growing not more than a foot high, which 
will spread out and conceal the surface of the ground from view. 

Grubbing: 

Clipping and digging out roots, stumps, etc. Turning over and 
breaking up the sod with a grub hoe or mattock. 

Guying Trees: 

Placing wires or stays on trees or portions of trees to prevent them 
being blown over or broken by the wind; more especially the placing 



GLOSSARY 363 

of three or more guys on trees recently transplanted to hold them 
firmly in place until an adequate root system has been established, 
and to prevent swaying of the trees and loosening of root system. 

Hammock Land: 

Land, mostly in the southern part of Florida, covered with luxuriant 
growth of trees (hardwoods, or cabbage palms and palmettos). The 
soil is rich in fertilizer value. 

Harden-off: 

To so care for plants previously grown in a greenhouse that they will 
be able to withstand normal outdoor exposures. It is customary to 
move such plants from the greenhouse to cold frames. 

Heave-out: 

The partial lifting of plants out of the soil by frost action. This is 
apt to occur when ground previously deeply frozen and thawed out 
on top is again frozen. The layer of frozen soil beneath, which has 
not yet thawed out, forms an unyielding barrier and the expansion 
of the soil in freezing is then wholly upward. The stresses thus caused 
are enormous and plants are lifted sometimes almost wholly out of 
the ground. 

Hedge: 

A row composed of living plants usually in a straight line and planted 
closely to each other (See Plate XV, Page 95). 

Hedgerow: 

A hedge or fence of bushes or shrubs either in the form of a definite 
hedge or of an irregular border-planting, of varying width and often- 
times varying types of plants. 

Heeling-in : 

Placing plants with roots covered with soil pressed down with the heel 
or toe to preserve them in a dormant condition for short periods until 
they can be permanently planted. Usually a deep furrow is dug, the 
roots placed close together in the furrow, with stems in a slanting posi- 
tion, and roots then covered with soil. The soil used in this covering is 
taken from the furrow of the next row (See Plate VL Page 34). 

Herb: 

A plant with no persistent stem above ground. 

Horticultural Variety : 

Said of certain varieties of plants developed because of some desirable 
characteristic. They are not necessarily hybrids, but usually are arti- 



364 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

ficially hybridized, then propagated by grafts, buds, cuttings, etc., 
to preserve in the new plant the desirable characteristics of the parent, 
which might be lost if grown from seed. 

Host Plant: 

A living plant attacked by a parasitic fungus or supporting a parasitic 
plant. 

Hotbed: 

A bed of earth enclosed in a glass-covered frame and heated by means 

of fermenting manure placed well below the surface of the soil in the 

hotbed. 
Humus: 

Vegetable mould or partly decayed organic matter in the soil. 

Hybrid: 

A cross between two species of the same genus or two varieties of the 
same species. 

Hybrid Tea: 

A section of the Hybrid Perpetual group crossed back upon 
the tea-scented China rose. They have a lighter green and less 
wrinkled foliage than the pure Hybrid Perpetual. They are generally 
less hardy but more continuous in bloom than Hybrid Perpetuals, 
sometimes blooming from June until frost. 

Hybrid Perpetual: 

Or Hybrid Remontant roses have a stiff upright growth, dull wrinkled 
foliage, and large flat flowers generally of dark colours. They embrace 
generally the characteristics of the Provence, Damask, French, and 
Chinese groups. They mostly have only one season of bloom, in June, 
but sometimes give scattered bloom later on in the season. 

Hybridization: 

Cross fertilization between plants of different varieties or species and 
sometimes of different genera. 

Hydrated Lime: 

The compound formed by the action of water or steam on fresh 
burned lime. Its good physical condition makes even distribution pos- 
sible, and thus permits maximum effectiveness to be obtained. 

Indigenous: 

Native and original to the country in which the plant is growing. 



GLOSSARY 365 

Land Plaster: 

Is a sulphate of calcium compound and its tendency is to make a soil 
sour. It should not be considered as a means of correcting soil acidity. 

Larva: 

The immature wingless, worm-like form in which insects (which undergo 
metamorphosis") have their first stage or stages before acquiring wings. 

Leaching: 

In soils; the loss, through solution in drainage water, of lime or plant 
food. 

Leader: 

The terminal leaf bud which will often form the main stalk of the 
plant; not only this bud, but also the previous year's growth is in- 
cluded by the term. 

Leaf Curl: 

In peaches is a condition caused by too rapid cell multiplication in re- 
sponse to the stimulus caused by a parasitic fungus. In snowball 
bushes the stimulus is caused by aphids. 

Leaf Mould: 

Decayed leaves combined with other organic matter found on a forest 
floor. 

Leggy: 

A term used to describe a plant (usually a shrub) on which old growth 
has developed in such a manner that the mass of fine branches and foli- 
age is on the top part of the plant, and the lower part shows a few 
bare stems. Usually the result of overcrowding plants or of incorrect 
pruning (See Plate V). 

Lime, or Limestone: 

A stone containing the element calcium which will unite with oxy- 
gen and carbon dioxide to form calcium carbonate or "lime," as used 
on the land. 

Line-out: 

As applied to planting work usually means the operation of planting 
small nursery stock in definite rows where such stock can make a 
further normal growth and be easily maintained. 



366 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

Litter: 

The soiled straw or leaves which have been used for bedding in stables, 
but which does not contain any considerable quantity of manure except 
that which it has absorbed in the form of fluids. Frequently used for 
mulching purposes. 

Loam: 

Earthy matter containing clay, silt, sand, and organic matter in such 
proportions as to make a soil adapted to supporting vegetable growth. 
Loam varies from a very sandy loam to a very clayey loam. Usually 
called topsoil. (See topsoil 6.) 

Loam, sandy: 

Loamy soil which contains a predominance of sand. 

Lump Lime: 

Burned limestone not evenly slaked so as to become finely divided. 

Magnesian Lime: 

A term describing a lime or limestone containing both magnesium 
carbonate and calcium carbonate. 

Magnesiimi: 

An element, usually occurring as magnesium carbonate, which is a 
compound useful in correcting soil acidity. 

Manure: 

Any material, either organic or inorganic, containing a superabundance 
of plant food or material which upon decomposition or nitrification 
becomes available plant food. 

Marl: 

An earthy, crumbly deposit consisting chiefly of clay and calcium car- 
bonate much used as a substitute for land lime. "Green sand" marl 
may be acid, but good chalk marl is valuable for neutralizing acids. 

Mildew : 

A diseased condition caused by the downy mildew fungus. 



Muck: 



Black swamp earth which varies widely in available plant food, 
very similar to peat except that water is not constantly present during 
the process of decay; hence the nitrifying bacteria are present and the 
material is better suited for immediate use as plant food^ It is in au 
intermediate stage between leaf mould and peat. 




Plate LX. There is always an opportunity on every large estate for 
the naturalizing of bulbs. Poet's narcissus is quite happy in a wild garden 
or field environment. (See page 270, group XXXVI--B) 





Plate LXI. Throughout the Southern States the creeping fig is one of the 
most desirable vines for growth on masonry walls. It develops interesting 
foliage of a fine texture and is a vigorous grower and compares favourably with 
the Lowe's Boston ivy so successfully used in the Northern States. (See 
page 303, group XLIIl-C"-li) 



GLOSSARY 367 

Mulch: 

A surface covering about the base of plants to prevent or retard evapo- 
ration of moisture from the soil, and prevent sudden freezing and 
thawing in the soil. Dead leaves, straw, manure, etc., are commonly 
used. 

Naturalize: 

To adapt and to cause to grow, without artificial care, in a woodland or 
field environment. This does not imply reproduction of its kind in the 
new location. 

Nitrification: 

The process resulting in the formation of nitrates in the soil. Certain 
bacteria known as "nitrifying bacteria" are the cause of this change of 
nitrogen and nitrogen compounds into nitrates. It is thus the oxida- 
tion of nitrogen caused by bacteria in the soil. Nitrification cannot 
proceed except in a moist, warm soil which is well aerated. It is checked 
entirely when the soil temperature is lower than 40° F. and also when 
the soil becomes water logged or saturated, and proceeds rapidly when 
the temperature reaches 75° Fahr. and when only 40 to 50 per cent, 
of the water necessary to cause saturation is present. 

Nursery: 

A place for growing plants out-of-doors, usually under intensive culti- 
vation. 

Nursery-grown Stock: 

Plants which have been grown at least one full year in a nursery, under 
the supervision of competent gardeners or nurserymen so as to pro- 
duce a number of even-sized superior plants for transplanting. 

Open Allee: 

A way framed on either side by symmetrical rows of closely planted 
trees or tall shrubs (of a height not less than twice the width between 
rows), and so maintained that both sides present a continuous vertical 
wall of close-growing foliage. 

Opening-up: 

In discussions on pruning this term means the cutting out of sufficient 
growth to admit the sunshine to the centre of the plant or to the area 
about a group of plants. 

Organic Manure: 

Manure consisting largely of decaying matter of animal or plant 
origin as distinguished from mineral manures which are inorganic. 



368 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

Parasitic Plants: 

Plants growing on or deriving nourishment from other plants; e. g., 
mistletoe. 

Paring and bximing: 

This operation consists of paring off the sod containing foul or objec- 
tionable growth to a depth of about two inches and after allowing it 
to dry burning it and spreading the ash over the ground. 

Peat: 

Decayed organic matter of vegetable origin naturally deposited under 
still water, hence found in the form of bogs. As it has been deposited 
under water and is usually found still under water, nitrifying bacteria 
are not present and peat is unavailable as plant food until mixed with 
soil in which nitrifying bacteria are present. Peat varies in colour 
from a pale brown or yellowish brown to almost black and in texture 
varies from a fibrous substance, containing particles easily recognized 
as plant remains, to a compact mass of fine particles which when still 
wet resemble clay except in colour. 

Perennial : 

Plants growing year after year. Properly includes trees and shrubs; 
but in practice the term is limited to those plants which have no per- 
sistent stem above ground, but do nevertheless grow year after year, 
merely dying back to a crown bud each fall and sending out new stems 
each spring. Perennial herb is the proper term to express this meaning. 

Piedmont: 

A region lying at the base of a mountain range. 

Pleached Allee: 

A way framed on either side by symmetrical rows of closely planted 
trees or shrubs, so maintained that the branches of the continuous walls 
of close-growing foliage arch and interweave across the top of the 
way at a height of not less than seven or eight feet. 

Pocket-planting : 

The planting of trees and shrubs in a pocket of fertile soil formed by 
digging a large hole in a more or less unfertile soil and refilling with 
fertile soil; frequently adopted to save expense of preparing beds and 
also to save unnecessary washing of an area of loose soil on slopes. 

Pollard: 

V. To remove the crown of a tree, usually at a point below the lowest 
branches, for the purpose of promoting a dense head of foliage or for re- 
juvenating the tree. 



GLOSSARY 369 

Preparation, of planting beds: 

This process normally includes plowing, spading, or grubbing, pulveriz- 
ing the soil, applying manure and mixing with soil, and getting the beds 
into first-class condition to receive the plants. In clay soils it also in- 
cludes removing clay to proper depth, and replacing with fertile topsoil. 

Propagation : 

To cause to multiply either by reproduction from seed or from 
cuttings. 

Puddling: 

The dipping of the roots of plants into a mixture of clayey soil and 
water having the consistency of molasses, in order to get close 
contact between root hairs and the soil. This protects the root hairs 
from injury in transportation, retards drying out of the roots, and pro- 
motes the acquiring of a speedy contact between roots and the soil 
into which the roots are placed. 

Quicklime: 

Unslaked lime. In planting, any lime not wholly slaked is called 
quicklime. See calcium oxide. 

Refined Lawns, Gardens, etc. 

Said of a studied landscape arrangement which shows neatness and 
careful maintenance as contrasted to a naturalistic arrangement which 
permits each plant to grow in unrestrained competition with the sur- 
rounding plants. 

Renovate : 

To systematically prune old plants, either trees or shrubs, but more 
especially shrubs, so that at the end of two or three years the plant 
consists almost entirely of new wood grown within that period. This 
may also mean to give new life to old plants by cultivating and ferti- 
lizing the soil and by systematic pruning of the plant itself. 

Retardation: 

The artificial application of cold temperatures or other conditions 
whereby the resting period is prolonged. 

Reversion: 

A tendency to revert to parental or ancestral characteristics. 

Root-bound: 

A term used in speaking of any plant whose root system cannot 
develop further because confined to a limited area. Thus, when the 



370 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

root system of a potted plant has filled the pot the plant is root-bound, 
or when the root system of stock planted in pockets has filled the 
pocket and the surrounding soil is so compact that the roots cannot 
penetrate it, the plant becomes root-bound. 

Root Prune: 

To prune or cut the roots of a plant in order to check excessive growth 
of the woody tops; often done to secure a compact root system consist- 
ing of a mass of fine roots confined to a limited area in order to permit 
of the plant being transplanted with a greater degree of certainty that 
the plant will continue to live (See Plate VI, Page 34). Some- 
times done merely to permit of the plant being more easily fed and 
decrease the probability of the plant food being lost in the greater 
area of soil, or taken up by plants for which it is not intended. 

Root Stock: 

The subterranean runner or partially subterranean runner which is a 
part of the root system (not a part of the stem) which roots at inter- 
vals and sends up stems similar to a stolon. It is a part of the true 
root system, while a stolon is part of the stem. 

Rotted Manure: 

Organic manure in which oxidation is so nearly completed that no 
appreciable amount of heat is given off and much of the material is 
available as plant food. 

Runner: 

A slender stolon. (See Root Stock). 

Rust: 

A diseased condition caused by a rust fungus. 

Sanctuary: 

A place of refuge in which birds or animals may continue their normal 
habits without fear of being molested. 

Scald: 

A diseased condition of the bark of a woody plant caused either by the 
action of frost in bursting the cells or by excessive drying due to sun or 
wind action. 



Scion : 



Any bud or shoot or other portion of the stem of a plant capable of 
propagation cut off and prepared for grafting. 



GLOSSARY 371 

Scraping tree trunks: 

The process of scraping ofF the loose bark from the trunk of a tree. 
The chief reason is to remove the hiding places of injurious insects. 

Seepage: 

The process of percolation, as ground water through the soil. 

Shothole: 

A small local centre of attack caused by parasitic fungi. 

Shrub: 

A woody perennial as distinguished from a tree m?inly by its low 
stature and having several primary stalks arising at or near the 
ground. 

Slaked Lime: 

Is fresh burnt lime reduced to a fine condition by the addition of 
water. 

Smut: 

A diseased condition caused by a smut fungus. 

Sod: 

That stratum of earth which is filled with the roots of grass, herbs, etc. 

Sour Soil: 

An acid soil; a term generally applied to a soil which is not only acid 
but deficient in soil aeration and in drainage. 

Specimen Plant: 

A plant specially grown by itself so as to display it to best advantage 
or to allow the plant to assume normal and unrestricted growth. 

Spore: 

A minute portion of a fungus capable of germinating and growing into 
a new fungus. 

Sport: 

An unusual variation from the normal type as commonly demonstrated 
in habits of growth and qualities of colour or size of flowers. 

Sprigging: 

Planting of grass by inserting roots or whole plants in the ground as 
Bermuda grass is generally planted. 



372 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

Stagger: 

To plant alternately at equal distances in a row on either side of a 
middle line (as in the planting of hedges) or to arrange over any area 
at equal distances without any reference to any definite line. 

Stag-head: 

Said of a tree the top of which is dead or nearly so, due to injury by 
accident or disease. 

Stem: 

One of the three divisions of all plants, which consist of roots, stem, and 
leaves. The stem is the ascending axis of the plant. 

Stolon: 

A branch from the stem, as distinguished from the root system. A 
stolon roots, or is disposed to root, at intervals, thus forming a new plant. 

Stratify: 

To store seeds between layers of earth, leaves, or other material, or 
to bury them so as to keep them fresh and moist, but not so warm 
as to germinate. 

Straw Manure: 

Manure which contains a portion of the straw which was used for 
bedding. Chiefly applied to the manure from stables in which straw 
was used as bedding, as distinguished from stables in which sand, 
sawdust, shavings, etc., are used as bedding. 

Subsoil: 

That soil lying directly beneath the topsoil; chemically similar but 
physically different. Without special treatment it will not sustain vege- 
tation, but on aeration will sustain some hardy plants most of which 
are vigorous weeds. 

Suckers: 

Adventitious shoots appearing on the roots or stems of plants. When 
they come on grafted plants, arising below the graft, they are of the 
same variety as the root, not the variety of the top. 

SufTocating Root Systems: 

A cause of abnormal loss among newly transplanted stock, especially 
the shallow- rooted type of trees, such as beech, maple, elm, and birch. 
The smaller feeding roots are deprived of properly aerated soil because 
of excessive depth of fill over the roots or because of compact clay soil 



GLOSSARY 373 

being filled around the base of the trees during the transplanting 
operation. 

Sun-scald: 

An injury to the cambium layer of a plant caused by the heat of the 
sun's rays; also a burning of the leaves of certain plants. 

Suppressed Growth: 

Growth in shaded areas that has been retarded because of a lack of 
sunlight. 

Tamping: 

The operation of making firm and solid all earth filled around roots 
of newly transplanted stock. It helps to eUminate unnecessary air 
spaces. 

Tap-root: 

A long central root running deep into the soil. 

Tip-bum: 

The condition of the edge of leaves of plants caused by too luxuriant 
growth followed by excessive heat and drought. 

Topiary Work: 

The cutting and trimming of shrubs and trees, especially evergreens, 
into odd or ornamental shapes, thus producing an effect entirely dif- 
ferent from that produced by the natural growing habits of the plant. 
(Birds, vases, urns, etc.) 

Top-dressing: 

A thin layer of manure spread over the surface of the ground, no at- 
tempt being made to work it into the soil. 

Top-pruning: 

The pruning of the top of a plant, especially the removal of the leader, 
to cause the plant to spread over a wider area and attain less height. 
Sometimes called "topping." 

Topsoil: 

A term applied to that part of the earth's surface which is tilled and 
consists of a soil ranging from a sandy loam to a clayey loam, contain- 
ing the chief elements necessary to support vegetation, in a condition 
readily made available as plant food, and containing sufficient moist- 
ure to support plant Ufe. Usually consisting of the top layer of 
virgin soil (four inches to eighteen inches deep). 



374 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

Is the result of the action of heat, frost, air, cultivation, surface or rain 
water, soil bacteria, etc. It is of finer particles than the subsoil, 
darker in colour, and looser in texture, and is rich in organic matter. 
A good topsoil, thoroughly dried, should contain 30 to 40 per cent, 
voids, when well shaken down in a box; that is 30 to 40 per cent, of 
its own volume of water should fill it to saturation but not increase 
the volume of the soil. It should contain from 40 to 60 per cent, 
of this amount of water to properly support plant life. 

Training: 

A procedure consisting principally of judicious pruning to adapt 
plants to limited areas or to form particular shapes, also to encourage 
the formation of flowers and fruit. 

Transpiration: 

The giving off of water vapour through the leaf pores of the plant. 

Transplanting: 

To remove a plant from one location and plant it in another location. 

Tree: 

A woody perennial, having a single main trunk. 

Tree Pit: 

A pocket or pit excavated to permit the introduction of sufficient 
fertile soil to support a tree; a common practice in planting street 
trees in city streets. The surface of the soil in the pit should be suf- 
ficiently lower than the surrounding area so that much of the rain 
falling on the surrounding area will flow to the pit, and the bottom 
of the pit must be well drained to remove excess water. 

Trench: 

v. To spade ground so deeply that the digging of ditches is nec- 
essary; hence to spade ground to two or more times the depth of a 
spade. In landscape work trenching is usually done for the purpose 
of saving good topsoil that has been buried under useless subsoil and 
also for the purpose of mixing manure and fertilizers into soil to a 
depth of one or more feet, especially in the vicinity of large trees and 
garden areas. 

Turf: 

The upper stratum of earth which is filled with roots of grass; sod. 





Plate LXII. Used as a tree for screen effects, specimen planting, or 
hedges, the Aiistrahan pine is throughout southern Florida one of the most 
freely used plants. (See page 310, group XLIII-j) 




■■■■ 



-To*. 



GLOSSARY 375 

Vase Form: 

In a plant, a manner of growth where the top springs from a single 
stem and spreads outward toward the top as the shape commonly 
taken by the American elm when growing in the open. For hedges see 
Plate V. 

Vista: 

A view or prospect; commonly through or along an avenue of trees. 

Wall Garden: 

A garden made by planting small plants in the crevices between the 
stones in a dry wall which is acting to support an earth embankment. 

Warm Soil: 

A soil in which temperature conditions are such that normal root 
growth is active, and the root fibres attach themselves to the minute 
particles of soil. 

Water Garden: 

A garden having a predominance of water-loving plants, with pools to 
sustain them. 

Water-soaked Soil: 

A soil where excess moisture conditions cause the air voids to become 
clogged with water and air to be entirely excluded, thus causing a 
condition termed "drowning-out" of root systems. 

Wild Garden: 

A garden on which little work has been done to disturb natural con- 
ditions, or a garden deliberately made to imitate natural conditions, 
the planting consisting chiefly of native plants, planted to get 
natural eflFects. 



Wilt: 



n. A parasitic disease generally caused by the anthracnose fungus. 



Windbreak: 

A planting composed of plants placed in such location as to shield cer- 
tain areas from undesirable winds, usually the cold northwest winds of 
winter. 

Wind-bum: 

An injury caused by the drying effect of wind upon soft bark or leaves 
of a plant. 



376 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 

Winter-killing: 

The death of plants in winter due generally to sudden changes of tem- 
perature or to the ground becoming frozen too deeply. 

Yellows: 

A diseased leaf condition due to the breaking down or oxidizing of the 
plant leaf tissue caused by a ferment. 

Zone (Planting) 

An area characterized by a planting season of similar duration and 
dates for beginning and ending. 



INDEX 



INDEX 



For the scientific names used in this book the author's authority is The Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture 
and the Official Code of Standardized Plant Names, which latter has not been followed absolutely m every in- 
stance, though an earnest endeavor has been made to make the names conform to this nomenclature. 

It has tjeen necessary to invent a few common names as no book in common use furnished a satisfactory name 
for many of the less well known plants. Many of these common names were taken from Britton's Manual 
and from the excellent catalogues issued some years ago by the Biltmore Nursery. The botanical or scientific 
names are indicated in italics. The group numbers refer to subdivisions of the table of contents. 



Aaron's Beard 

Name 



Aaron's Beard . 

Abelia chinensis . 
Chinese 
fioTibunda , , 
grandifloja. 



Himalayan 
Hybrid . 



Mexican . 
iTifiora .... 
Abies (in variety) 
balsamea 
bTachypkylla . 
concoloT 
concolor globosa (spherical) 

grandis .... 

nobilis 

nordmanniana . 

veitchi 

Abrus precatorius 
Abyssinian Banana . 
Acacia armata . . . 

Acalypha hispida 

wilkesiana .... 

Acanthus 

Accent trees and shrubs 
Acer (in variety) 

circinatum .... 

ginnala 

ophyllum . 



palmatum and varieties 

pennsylvanicum 
platanoides. 
pUttanoides globosum . 
platanoides schwedleri . 
pseudoplatanus 
Tubrum .... 



Tubruni drummondi . 
saccharinum .... 
saccharinum pyramidale 
sacchaium 

saccharum monunientale . 

tataricum 

Achillea boule de neige . 

Jilipendttla 

ptarmica flore plena . 

tomentosa 

Achyranthes, Narrow-leaved 

Roiind-Ieaved . . . 



d, 46-C-a, 
40-'C-b. 43-E-b, 



Group 

28-B. 29-E-b, 29-H, 45-F-a 

45-B-a 

45-B-a 

45-B-a. 45-F-b, 

16-C. 22-C-b, 

45-B-a, 45-F 
45-B-a . . 
16-C, 22-C-b, 

45-B-a, 45-F 
45-B-a. 45-F-b, 
45-B-a . . 
14-A-a, 42-D 
9-C, 24-C-a, 28 
9-A. 9-B. 14-A 
9-A. 9-B, 11-A 
9-E . . 
9-C 
46-H-a 
46-H-a 
9-C 

9-A, 9-B, 24-C 
43-C-a . . 
16-C . . 
45-B-a . . 
43-F-c, 43-J-b 
. 43-E-a, 43-F-d 
32-G-b-l 
31-M-b. 



A, 46-E 

b. 16-D-b-2, 24 

14-A-b, 44-F, 46-H 



16-D-a, 45-B-b 



, 26-B-a, 



14 

30-A, 30-B. 

12-A-b, 16-B-b, 

46-C-b, 46-F 

12-C. 22-A, 25-j 

46-D 

10-C. 12-C. 22-1 

14-A-a. 15-B, 

46-C-a 
21,27 . 
10-B, 22-C-a, 44-E-b. 46-D , 
16-B-b . . 
14-A-a . . 
46-D . . 
19-A, 20B. 

26-A-a. 38-C-l 

46-F 
38-C-b . 
10-C, 12-E-e. 23-A, 40-B, 44-E 

12-C, 12D, 14-/ " '" " 

10-A. 22-A, 

44-E-a . 
14-A-b, 16-A, 
12-C, 44-A-b 
15-C, 31-B-f, 31-1 . 
24-E . . 
31-D, 31-E 
29-A, 31-B-h 
32-G-b-2. 35-B-c 
32-G-b-l . . 

379 



Achyranthes 

Pace 

197, 207, 209, 324 

320 

320 

320, 324. 326 

146. 174. 290. 305, 320, 

326. 336, 339 
320 
146, 174, 290. 305, 320 

326, 336, 339 
320, 324, 326 
320 

133, 298 

113, 182, 196, 337 
111, 112, 134, 147, 182 
111, 112, 119, 134, 316, 339 
114 
113 
339 
339 
113 

111, 112, 182 
302 
146 
320 

306, 310 
305, 307, 309 
244 
235 
132 

124, 145, 146, 321 
337, 338 

125, 173, 186, 191, 338 
337 

117, 125, 173, 177. 314 

133, 139, 173. 290, 316, 336 

169, 193 

117, 173, 315, 337 



117, 126, 177, 289. 315 
125, 134, 144, 147, 

116, 173, 182, 196, 314, 315 

134, 144, 147 

125, 313 

139, 224, 232 

184 

229 

203, 225 

244,266 

244 



Aconite 



380 



Allium 



Name 

Aconite, Winter .... 
Aconitum (in variety) 

autumnaU 

fischeri 

naptllus 

wihani 

Acorus japonicus vajiegatus 
Aetata (in variety) . 

alba 

spicata 

Actinidia (in variety) . 

arguta 

chinensis 

polygama 

Adam's Needle .... 



Drooping-Ieaved . 

Early-flowering 

Late-flowering 
Adaptation. Plants in general . 

Evergreens 
Adder's- tongue . 
Adetianthera pavonina . 
Adiantum pedatum . 
Adlumia ctrrhosa 
Adonis vtinalis . 
Aegopodium podagTaria . 
Aesculus (in variety) 

hippocastanum 

hippocastanum Tubicunda 

indica 

octatidra .... 

parviftora .... 

wilsoni 

African Com Lily . 
Agapanthus umbellatus . 

Agave 

Ageratum (in variety) . 

houstonianum . 

Imperial Dwarf Blue . 

Imperial Dwarf White 
Ailanthus alltssima . 

glandulosa .... 
Ajuga genevensis, 

reptans .... 
Akebia, Divided-leaved. 

Five-leaved 

lobata 

quinata 

Albizzia juiibrsssin . 

lebbek 

Alder 

Black 

Dwarf 

Smooth .... 

Southern Dwarf . 

Speckled .... 

Woolly-leaved White. 
Aleurites fordi 

triloba 

Alisma plantago . 
Alkaline soils, Trees and si 

for 

Alkanet 

Caucasian .... 

Italian 

Allamanda (in variety) 

kendersoni .... 

Henderson's , 

nerifolia .... 

Purple 

purpurea .... 

Vine 

williamsi .... 

William's .... 

Yellow .... 
Allee, Open 

Pleached .... 
Alleghany Stewartia 
Alleghany Vine 
Allium moly .... 



36-B .... 

31-B-i, 3I-N, 45-1 

31-H 

31-G 

31-G, 38-A. 

31-E . 

31-L-b . 

45-J . 

31-C-a . 

28-B 

24-B-c, 24-C-c, 34-( 

25-C, 34-A. 

45-L 

25-C 

18-A, 24-E, 

37-A-c, 42-B-b, 

45-F-b 
18-A, 45-A-t 
45-F-b 
45-F-b 



, 29-B, 



, 45-J 
i-b, 45-J 



', 44-G 
I. 44-G 



29-H, 36-B, 

43-B-b 

28-B, 29-D- 

32-F-a 

31-B-d, 45- 

29-C 

14-A-a, 'l9-B, 42-C 

10-C, U-A, 20-F 

46-D . . 

45-C . . 

45-C 

14-B. 19-G-b 

45-C . . 

36-E-a . . 

16-C . . 

43-1 . . 

43-1 . . 

32-A, 32-B, 32-1 

35-A-c 
32-G-a-2 
32-G-a-2 
24-D . 
10-B, 11-A, 20- 
31-B. 

28-B, 29-A, 29- 
22-C-b-2, 
22-C-b-2,24-C-c, 34-1 
22-C-b-2, 
22-C-b-2.24-C-c, 34-E 
43-B-a, 45-H-a, 45-K 
43-B-b . . 
30-A, 39 . 
24-A-a, 25-A 
45-F-a . . 
24-A-a 26-A-c 
45-F-a . . 
24-A-a, 26-A< 
45-F-c 

45-H-a, 45-K-a 
43-B-b 
31-L-b 



24-D . . 

24-E, 45-1 . 

24-E . . 

31-B-a 

16-C, 43-J-c 

43-C-a . . 

43-C-a . . 

43-F-c . . 

43-F-e . . 

43-F-e . . 

16-C, 43-J-c 

43-C-a . . 

43-C-a . . 

43-F-c . . 

16-D-b 

16-D-a . . 

14-B, 19-D, 19-G-b, 45-H-b. 

32-F-a . . 

36-B, 45-J . 



270 

226, 236, 329 

232 

231 

231, 279 

229 

234 



182, 183, 260, 261 

187, 260 

332 



271, 331 
206, 331 
329 



197, 
242 
223, 
205 



117. 119, 167 

337 

321 

321 

135. 158 

321 
274 
146 
309 
309 
240, 241, 242. 244, 264, 265 



183 

117, 119. 167, 177, 321 

222 

197. 203, 205 

175 

175. 183, 261, 316 

175 

175, 183, 261, 316 

301, 327, 331 

301 

212,284 

180,186 

324 

180, 190 

324 

180,190 

325 

327, 331 

301 

234 

183 

184.330 

184 

222, illus. 294 

146, 311 

302 

302 

306 

307 

307 

146. 311 
302 

306. illus. 375 

147, illus. 190, 191 
146 

135, 156, 159, 329 

242 

270, 331 



Almond 



Almond, Flowering . 
Alnus (in variety) . 
glutinosa 



TU^osa senulata 
Alpine Plants 
Alstroemeria chilensts 
Altemanthera 

Narrow- lea ved 

Round -leaved 
Althaea officinalis 

rosea alba . 

rosea — yellow . 
Alyssum (in variety) 

argenteum 

Lilac Sweet 

maritimum. 

tnaritimum Lilac Queen 

maritimum Little Gem 

maritimum variegatum 

saxatile .... 

saxatile compoctum 

Sweet 

Variegated- leaved Sweet 

White Sweet . 
Amanita muscaria 

pkalloides . 
Amaranth, Globe 
Amaryllis. 
Amelanchier (in variety) 

canadensis 

oblongifolia 

rotundifolia 
AmoTpha (in variety) 

canescens . 
fruticosa 

iennessensis 
Ampelopsis aconitifolta 

engelmanni . 

Engelmann's . 

heteropkylla 

quinquejolia . 



iriscuspidata lowi . 

triscuspidata veitcki 
Anagallis 
Anchusa (in variety) 

italica .... 

mysotidiflora . 
Andromeda . 

polifolia 
Anemone coronaria . 

japonica 



Poppy-flowered 

sylvestris 

White Wood . . 
ATw:elica Tree 

Five-leaved 
Annual Meadow Grass 
Annuals ...._., 

Carpet Bedding, annuals for. 

Cut flowers, valuable for 

Design Bedding, annuals for. 

Difficult to transplant 

Early blossoming 

Ground cover, sown for 

Planted in several sowings to 
insure succession of bloom. 

Started indoors to produce 
good bloom before frost 

Transplanting of 

Vines .... 

Delicate foliage. 

Heavy foliage . 

Anthemis (in variety) 

tinctoria kelwayi . 
Antigonon teptopus . 



381 

Group 

13-A-b, 14-B, 19-E-a. 44-G 

30-A .... 
24-A-a, 25-A . . 
24-A-a, 26-A-c . 
24-A-a, 26-A-c . 

15 

45-1 .... 
32-G-a-l . . . 
32-G-a-l . . . 
32-G-a-l . . . 
45-J .... 
31-B-K. 31-E, 31-N 
31-B-f .... 
31-B-h .... 
43-1,45-1 . . . 
15-C .... 
32-G-a-2 . . . 
29-1, 32-A . . . 
32-G-a-2 . . . 
32-B. 32-G-a-2 . 
32-G-a-l . . . 
31-B-d .... 
15-C, 29- A. . . 
29-1, 32-A 32-B . 
32-G-a-l . . . 
32-G-a-2 . . . 
38-A .... 
38-A .... 
32-A .... 
43-1 .... 
20-D-a, 22-B, 41 . 
13-B-c . . . 
17, 19-A, 26-B-a, 27 
13-A-b, 17 . . . 
45-J .... 

18-B 

13-B-b, 19-H, 42-A-b. 

45-F-a 

25-C. 29-E-c, 34-D, 34-) 
34-B, 46-G. . 
34-B, 46-G . . 
25-C, 29-E-c, 34-b, 34-1 
20-D-a. 22-B, 24-B-c 

29-E-c, 34-C, 34-D, 

44-C-b, 45-A-b 



Antigonon 



-B. 45-A-b, 46-G 



24-E, 31-B-a, 31-H 
24-E .... 
26-A-c . . . 
18-A, 33-E-b . . 
45-1 .... 
31-A, 31-B-j, 31-B-k, 
31-K-a, 40-B . 

40-C-a 

15-C. 28-B, 31-B-b, 31- 
45-1 .... 
31-B-b .... 
40-C-a .... 
24-C-b, 42-B-b . 
13-A-b, 22-C-b-l . 
38-C-a .... 

32 

32-G .... 
32-A .... 
32-H .... 
32-C .... 
32-E .... 
32-B .... 

32-D .... 

32-E .... 

32-F ; ; ; ; 

32-F-a .... 

32-F-b .... 

37-B-b .... 

31-A, 31-B-h, 31-D, 31-H, Si-K-c 45-1 

43-C-a, 45-L . 



Pace 

129, 135. 157, 317 

212 

180, 186 

180 190 

180, 190 

136 

329 

243 

243 

243 

331 

225, 229, 236 

224 

225 

309, 329 

139 

244 

210, 240 

244 

241, 244 

243 

223 

139, 203 

210, 240, 241 

243 

244 

279 

279 

240 

309 

165, 173, 293 

131 

149, 154. 191, 193 

129, 149 
331 

151 

130, 159, 297 
323 

187, 207, 261 
260, 338 
260. 338 
187. 207. 261 

165, 173, 182, 187, 190, 207, 
260, 261, 302, 314, 319, 

260 

260, 319, 338 

241 

330 

184, 222, 231 

184 

190 

151, 252 

330 

221, 226, 230. 231, 232, 233, 

289, illus. 303 
290 

139, 197, 222, 227, 289 

330 

222 

290 

182, 297 

129, 174 

281 

237, ill us. 287, 334 

243 

239 

245 

241 

242 

240 

241 

242 

51 

242 

242 

242 

277 

221, 225, 229, 231, 234, 330 

302. 332 



Antirrhinum 


382 








Artemisia 


Name 


Group Pace 




AnttTThinum (in variety) 


35.A-a. 35-A-b 264 




majus 


31-J. 32-A. 32-E, 32-H-b 


45-1 . 




233. 240, 242, 246, 330 




majus nanum .... 


32-H-a 






245 




Aphonantke aspera . 


45-H-a 








327 




Apple 


39 








284 




Aquatic Plants .... 


31-L 








234, illus. 318 




AquUeRta (in variety) . . 


31-A 31-1. 31-K-a, 31-N 


40 


A.45- 


I 


221, 232. 233, 236, 289. 


330 


caeruUa 


31-H 








231 




caerulea hybrida 


31-B-a 








222 




canadensis .... 


15-C. 31-B-c. 31-C-a . 








139. 223. 227 




chiysantha 


31-B-d. 31-H . . . 








223.231 




formosa hybrida 


31-B-c 








223 




hybrida Rose Queen . 


31-B-c 








223 




hybrida 


31-F 








230 




nivea grondifiora . 


31-B-b 








222 




vulp.aris 


31-C-a 








227 




Arabis (in variety) . . . 


45-J 








331 




alhida 


29-F. 31-B-b. 37-A< . 








208. 222. 276 




alpina 


24-E. 29-A. 29-F. 31-B-b 








184. 203. 208, 223 




alpina nana compacta 


15-C 








139 




Aralia (in variety) . 


24-C-b. 42-B-b . . 








182, 297 




pentaphylla .... 


13-A-b, 22-C-b-l . . 








129. 174 




racemosa 


28-B 








197 




spinosa 


U-B, 20-B. 43-F-a. 45-H 


-a 






120. 162. 305. 327 




Araucaria excelsa 


43-B-b 








301 




Arborvitae 


12-A-a, 14-A-a. 30-A. 39. 


42 


E .' 




124. 134. 212. 284, 298 




American 


9-B, 9-D. 24-A-a, 24-C-a 


44 


F . 




113, 180. 182.316 




Columnar OrienUl . . 


14-A-b 








135 




Compact 


9-E 








114 




Douglas* 


9A 








112 




Dwarf 


9-E 








114 




Elwanger's 


9-E. 12-B .... 








114. 125 




Fastigiate .... 


14-A-b 








135 




George Peabody's Golden 


9-A 








112 




Globe 


9-A. 9-E. 12-B. 18-A 








112. 114, 125, 151 




Hovey's 


9-E 








114 




Japanese 


9-C 








113 




Little Gem 


9-A. 9-E. 18-A . . 








112, 114, 151 




Oriental 


9-B. 16-D-b-2. 45-B-a. 4J 


-D 






113. 147.321,322 




Pyramidal .... 


9-A. 14-A-b, 16-A. 16-C 








112. 135. 145. 146 




Pyramidal Oriental . 


45-E 








323 




Rosenthal's .... 


9-A 








112 




Siberian 


9-A. 9-B, 16-D-b-2 . 








112. 113. 147 




Tall Pointed .... 


9-A 








112 




Tom Thumb .... 


12-B 








125 




Vervaene's 


9-A 








112 




Western 


16-D-b-2 .... 








147 




Woodward's Dwarf . 


9-E 








114 




Arbutus, Trailing . . . 


29-A. 30-A, 33-E-b, 37-A 


-c. 


lO-C-a 




204. 212. 253. 277, 290 






46-H-b 








339 




unedo 


45-G, 45-K-b . . . 








327. 332 




Arctotis grandis .... 


32-A 








240 




Arctostaphylos laa-uisi . 


28-A, 29-B. 29-E-a, 33-E 


b. 


t6-B-a' 




196. 204. 206. 252. 336 




Ardisia 


45-F-b 








324 




crenulata 


45-G. 45-K-b . . . 








327. 332 




ctenulata rubra 


45-F-b 








324 




Scallop-leaved. . . . 


45-G. 45-K-b . . . 








327, 332 




revoluta 


4.3-D 








304 




Arenaria caespitosa . . . 


29-B 








204 




montana 


15-C. 24-E. . . . 








139, 184 




Arzemone (in variety) . 


45-1 








330 




Argentine Monkey's Comb 


43-C-a 








303 




Arisaema tjiphyllum . . . 


38-A 








279 




Arislotochia elegans . 


43-C-a 








302 




sipho 


34-A. 34-C. 34-E . . 








260, 261 




Armeria (in variety) . . 


31-K-b. 45-J . . . 








233. 331 




maritima 


29-A. 29-F. 29-G . . 








204. 208, 209 




maritima alba .... 


31-B-b 








223 




maritima laucheana 


. 31-B-c .... 








223 




Amallo 


43-D 








304 




Aronia (in variety) . . . 


20-D-a 








165 




arbutifolia 


13-B-b. 24-A-a. 28-A, 29- 


H 






130, 180. 196. 209 




metanocarpa .... 


13-B-b. 24-A-a, 28-A, 45- 


F-c 






130, 180, 196. 325 




Arrowhead,*Giant 


31-L-b 








234 




Arrow-wood 


19-C, 22-B, 26-A-c, 27 








156. 173, 190, 193 




Downy-leaved. . . . 


27 








193 




Artemisia (in variety) . . 


42-B-b. 45-1 .. . 








297,330 




abrotanum 


24-E. 27-B-b . . . 








184, 277 




dracunculus .... 


37-B-b 








277 




frigida 


38-C-a 








280 




lacti/Una 


31-B-f. 31-B-j. 37-A-c 








224, 226, 276 




aericea 


44-B-a 








313 





Artemisia 


383 






Australian Pin 


Name 


Group Page 


ATtemisia stelleriana . . . 


24-E 184 


Artobotrys odorattssimus 


43-F-c 






306 


Aruncus Sylvester 


31-B-f, 31-C-a. 31-L-c . . 






224, 227, 234 


Arundo donax .... 


. 31-E 






229 


Asarum arifolium , 


45-A-a 






319 


canadense 


29-H 






209 


virginictim 


45-A-a 






319 


Asdepias incarnata . . . 


31-L-c 






234 


rubra 


24-A-a 






180 


tuberosa 


31-C-a. 45-1 






227, 330 


Ash. American Mountain . 


25-A. 44-E-b 






186, 315 


Biltmore 


45-C 






321 


European Mountain . 


10-C, 20-B 






117, 163 


Mountain 


20-D-b. 42-C 






166, 298 


Pyramidal Mountain. 


14-A-b 






135 


Oak-leaved Mountain 


14-A-a, 16-D-b-l .... 






1.34. 147 


Red 


45-H-a 






328 


Silver-leaved White . . 


45-H-a 






328 


Water 


45-C 






321 


White 


22-B, 24-A-a, 25-A, 44-C-b, 44-E-a. 173, 180, 186, 314, 315, 337 




46-D 


Ash Trees 


10-B. 11-A, 39 117.119.284 


Asiatic Creeper .... 


25-C. 29-E-c, 34-D, 34-E . 






187, 207. 261 


Asimina triloba .... 


20-A 






162 


Asparagus Fern .... 


35-A-c. 35-B-a .... 






265, 


Asparagus sprengeri 


35-A-c, 35-B-a .... 






265, 


Aspen, Trembling . 


21 






170 


Asperula hexaphylla. 


31-C-b 






228 


odorata 


29-A. 29-F, 37-A-c, 37-B-b . 






204, 208, 276, 277 


Aspidistra lurida 
Tall Evergreen . . . 


35-B-c .... 






266 


35-B-c 






266 


Aspidium acrostic hoides. 


28-B. 29-D-a. 29-D-b. 33-E-b 






197, 206, 252 


cristatum 


29-D-b 






206 


goldieanum 


29-D-b 






206 


marginale 


28-B, 29-D-a, 29-D-b, 31-C-b 






197, 206, 228. 


Asplenium pbeneum . 


29-D-a 






206 


filtX'foeniina .... 


29-D-b 






206 


trichomanes .... 


2q-D-a 






206 


Assonia natalensis . 


43-F-a 






305 


Pink 


43-F-b 






306 


punctata 


43-F-b 






306 


White 


43-F-a 






305 


Aster (in variety) . . . 


30-A, 31-A, 31-B-i. 31-B.j. 31- 


B-k 


, 212. 221, 226, 229, 230, 234, 




31-E, 31-F, 31-L-c, 31-M-b, 39 




235, 284 


acuminatus .... 


28-B 




197 


Blue Hardy .... 


31-1, 43-1 






232. 309 


Bog 


24-A-a 






180 


cordifolius 


28-B, 31-C-a 






197, 227 


corymbosus 


28-B. 31-C-a 






197, 227 


ericoides 


29-B, 31-C-a, 38-C-a . . 






204, 227, 280 


Hardy 


30-A, 31-B-j, 31-E, 31-F, 31-L< 






212, 226, 229, 230. 234 


Hardy Garden . . . 


31-K-c, 38-C-a .... 






234, 280 


nenwralis 


24-A-a 






180 


novae-angliae .... 


31-K-c. 38-C-a .... 






234,280 


novae-angliae Climax . 


31-H, 31-1, 43-1 ... . 






232,309 


novi-belgi 


31-K-c 






234 


patens 


28-B 






197 


Sharp-leaved .... 


28-B 






197 


Spreading 


28-B 






197 


Starwort 


28-B, 31-C-a 






197, 227 


Stokes' 


15-C, 31-B-e, 31-1 . . . 






140, 224, 232 


White Heath .... 


29-B, 31-C-a, 38-C-a . . 






204, 227, 280 


Wild 


28-B, 31-C-a 






197, 227 


Woody 


38-A 






279 


Astilbe biternata .... 


30-A 






212 


davidi 


31-B-g. 31.L-C 






225, 234 


grandis 


31-E 






229 


Japanese 


12-B, 19-C, 31-B-f, 31-1 . . 






124, 155, 224, 232 


japonica 


12-B, 19-C. 31-B-f, 31-1 . . 






124, 155, 224, 232 


Large- flowered 


31-E 






229 


Asystasia bella .... 


43-F-e 






207 


AtTopa belladonna 


38-A 






279 


Aubrietia deltoidea 


29-F, 33-E-b 






208, 252 


deltoidea giaeca 


31-B-a 






222 


Aucuba japonica . 


16-C, 45-F-b, 45-G, 45-H-b, 


15-1 


C-b 


146, 324, 327, 329, 332, 335 




46-A-b. 46-H-b. . . . 






339 


japonica latimaculata . 


45-F-b 






324 


japonica variegata. 


45-H-b 






329 


Australian Pine .... 


43-A, 43-B-b, 43-J-a . . . 






301, 302, 310, illus. 374 



Autumn Colouration 



384 



Barberry 



Autumn Colouration of Leaves 22 _ _ . 


171, illus. 247 


Early 


22-A 


173 


Late 


22-C 


173 


Coloured foliage 


22-C-a 


173 


Green foliage . 


22-C-b 


174 


Shrubs .... 


22-C-b-l 


174 


Vines 


22-C-b-2 


175 


Medium 


22-B 


173 


Autumn flowering 






Perennials 


31-B-k 


226 


Shrubs 


19-D 


156 


Avens 


30-B, 31-B-c, 31-D 


212, 223, 229 


Orange 


31-B-d 


223 


Avenues (Trees for) . 


10 


n."; 


Azalea (in variety) Ste rhoda 


14-B, 27, 30-A. 33-E-a. 39, 40-B, 44-G 135, 193. 212. 252. 284. 


demlron 




289, 316 


amoena 


12-B. 45-B-a, 45-F-b .... 


124, 320. 324 


aTborescens .... 


13-B-b, 37-A-a 


130, 275 


canescetts .... 


37-A-a. 45-F-a 


275. 323 


Carolina ....'. 


13-B-a, 19-A, 19-E-a, 45-F-a . . 


130, 154, 157, 323, illus. 214 


Crimson Evergreen . 


46-C-a 


336 


Flame-coloured 


13-B-a, 19-A. 19-F-b .... 


130, 154. 158 


Fragrant Mountain . . 


37-A-a, 45-F-a 


275, 323 


gaudavensis .... 


45-F-a 


323 


Ghent 


45-F-a 


323 


Hardy Evergreen . . . 


12-B, 45-B-a, 45-F-b .... 


124, 320, 324 


Hardy Indian 


45-F-b 


324 


hiiiodiRiri 


46-C-a 


336 


Indian 


43-F-a, 43-F-b. 43-F-d, 43-F-e, 43-H 
45-F-b. 46-C-a 


. 305, 306, 307, 308, 324, 336 


indica 


43-F-a, 43-F-b, 43-F-d. 43-F-e, 43-H 
45-F-b, 46-C-a 


, 305. 306, 307, 308, 324, 336 


indica kaempferi . 


45-F-b 


324 


Japanese 


15-B, 19-B. 45-F-a 


139. 155, 323 


Japortico 


15-B, 19-B 


139. 155 


luiea 


13-B-a, 19-A, 19-F-b .... 


130, 154, 158 


mollis 


45-F-a 


323 


Native 


27 


193 


nudiftora 


13-B-a. 15-B, 19-A, 19-E-a, 24-B-b 
45-F-a 


130. 139, 154, 157, 181, 3 


obtusa 


45-F-b 


324 


Orange-flowered . 


45-F-b 


324 


Pontic 


45-F-a 


323 


pontica 


45-F-a 


323 


Smooth 


13-B-b, 37-A-a 


130, 275 


Swamp 


19-G-a, 37-A-a, 45-F-a .... 


158, 276, 323 


vaseyi 


13-B-a, 19-A, 19-E-a. 45-F-a . . 


130, 154, 157, 323 


viscosa 


19-G-a, 37-A-a, 45-F-a .... 


158, 276, 323 


Baby's Breath .... 


31-B-f, 31-L 32-A, 32-C, 32-D, 43-1 


225, 232, 240, 241, 309 


Pink 


32-C 


241 


Baby's Slippers .... 


29-F 


208 


Bacchaus halimifolia 


19-D. 26-A-c, 43-D. 45-F-c . . . 


156, 190, 304, 325 


Bald Cypress .... 


14-A-a, 16.D-b-l, 24-A-a, 45-E, 45-H-a 


134, 147, 180, 323, 329 


Pyramidal .... 


14-A-b 


135 


Balm of Gilcad .... 


37-B-b 


277 


Ball of Snow 


15-C, 31-B-f, 3I-I 


139, 224, 232 


Balloon Flower .... 


24-E, 31-B-e, 45-1 


184, 224, 330 


Balloon Vine 


32-F-a 


242 


Balsam. Garden . . . 


32-A 


240 


Bamboo 


43-E-a, 43-L 45-H-b 


305, 309, 329 


Silver 


43-A 


301 


Striped 


43-A 


301 


Botnbusa (in variety) 


43-1, 45-H-b 


309,329 


araentca 


43-A 


301 


disticka 


43-E-a 


305 


slTtala 


43-A 


301 


Banana 


43-D 


304 


Banana Shrub .... 


43-F-c, 45-F-d, 45-K-b .... 


307, 326, 332 


Banetierry .... 


45-J 


331 


White 


31-C-a 


227 


Baptisia (in variety) 


31-M-b. 45-1 


235,330 


australis 


31-B-e. 31-H 


224,231 


tinctoria 


31-B-d 


223 


Barbadocs Cherry. Dwarf . 


43-D 


304 


Barbadoes F'lower Fence . 


43-F-c. 43-F-d, 43-J-b .... 


307, 310 


Barberry (in variety) . . 


19-F-a, 20-B, 2()-C, 20-D-a, 39 . . 


157, 162, 163, 165, 284 


Alleghany 


45-F-a 


323 


Box-leaved 


45-F-b, 46-C-a. 46-H-b .... 


324, 336. 339 


Chilean 


45-B-a, 45-F-d, 45-K-b .... 


320, 326, 332 


Darwin's 


45-F-b, 46-C-a 


324,336 


Evergreen 


33-E-b, 45-F-b 


252. 324 



Barberry 

Name 

Barberry, Fragrant 

Holly-leaved . 
Purple-fruited. 
Siebold's 
Small -leaved 
Thunberg's Japanese 



Wilson's . 
Barren Strawberry 
Barrenwort, American 

Japanese 
Barriers, Plants for . 
Bauhinia {in variety) 

purpurea . . . 
purpurea triandra . 
tomentosa . 
Bayberry. 



Bay Tree 

Beaked-rush, White . 
Bean, Scarlet Runner . 
Bearberry . . . . 
Bear's Breech 
Beaumontia grandiJloTa . 

White- flowered 
Beauty Fruit. 



Bedding Plants for design bed 

ding .... 
Bedstraw, Northern. 
Beech (in variety) , 

American . 

European . 



Fern-leaved European 
Bcechdrop 
Beechnut .... 
Begonia, Bedding . 

Cherry-red Bedding 

Rex. '.'.'.'. 

semperflorens. Trior 
Lorraine. 

semperflorens. Vernon 

(tuberous- rooted) . 

Tuberous . 
Belamcanda ckinensis 
Bellis perennis 
Bending-road Planting 
Benzoin aestivale. 

Berberis (in variety) 
aristata ... 
buxijolia . 
canadensis . 
darwini . 
hakeoides . 
heteropoda . 
ilicifolia 

neuherti latifolia . 
sargentiana . 
sieboldi 
stenophylla . 
thunbergi . 



wilsonae 

Berchemia scandens . 

racemosa 

Bergamot 

Wild 

Bergamot Berry 
Bermuda grass planting 
Berries, See Fruiting Plants 
Betula (in variety) . 

alba 



38s 



Betula 



Group 

45-F-a 

45-F-b, 45-F-d, 46-C-a, 46-H-b 

45-F-a .... 

45-F-a .... 

45-F-b. 46-H-b 

11-B. 12-A-b. 12-B, 12-E-b. 12-E-c. 

12-E-d, 13-A-a, 16-B-b, 22-B. 24-C-b, 

26-A-c, 42-A-a, 43-E-b, 44-C-b, 

46-A-a. 46-F . . 
22-C-b-l. 45-F-a. 46-F 
15-C, 45-A-a, 45-J . 

15-C 

15-C 

12A 

43-B-b 

43-F-a 

43-F-e 

43-F-b 

43-F-c 

13-A-a, 13-B-a. 18-B. 20-B, 2( 

20-D-b, 22-C-a, 24-Bb. 25-B. 26-J 

28-A. 29E-a. 39. 40-C-a. 43-J-b. 44-G. 

45-F-c . . . 
16-C, 45-F-d . . 
24-A-a .... 
32-F-b .... 
28-A. 29-B, 29-E-a, 33-E-b. ■ 
31-M-b. . . . 
43-C-a .... 
43-C-a .... 
13-A-a. 13-B-a. 20-B, -43-F 

45-G. 45-H-b . 

32-H .... 
28-B .... 
14-A-a, 24-C-a, 30- A. 39. 
12-C, 21, 22-C-a. 40-C-a 
12-A-a. I2-A-b. 12-C, 
40-B, 40-C-b, 44-G 

14-A-a 

30-B 

30-B 

32-G-b-2 .... 
32-G-b-2 .... 
32-G-b-2 .... 
32-G-b-2 .... 

32-G-b-2 .... 
32-G-b-2 .... 
35-A-b. 35-B-b . . 
35-A-b. 35-B-b . . 
30-B. 45-J .... 
29-A, 29-F, 31-B-c, 31-J, : 

18 

19-A, 19-F-a, 20-D-a. 27. 

37-B-a. 40-B. 42-A-a. 44 
19-F-a, 20-B, 20-C, 20-D-; 
45-F-a .... 
45-F-b, 46-C-a, 46-H-b 

45-F-a 

45-F-b, 46-C-a . . 
45-B-a, 45-F-d, 45-K-b 
45-F-a .... 
45-F-a, 46-C-a, 46-H-b 

45-F-d 

33-E-b, 45-F-b . . 
45-F-a .... 
45-F-b. 46-H-b . . 
11-B. 12-A-b, 12-B, 12-E-b. 12-E-c. 

12-E-d, 13-A-a, Ifi-B-b, 22-B, 24-C-b, 

26-A-c,42-A-a,43-E-b,44-C-b, 46-A-a, 

46-F 

22-C-b-l, 45-F-a, 46-F 

45-L 

45-L 

31-B-g, 31-K-a, 37-A-c, 

43-D, 43-E-a '. '. '. 



10-C, 14-A-a, 30-A, 40-B, 40-C-a, 

40-C-b 
25-A, 46-F 



Page 



323 

324, 326, 336, 339 

323 

323 

324, 339 

120, 124. 126. 128. 145. 173, 

182. 190, 296. 305, 314, 335, 

338 

174, 323, 338 

140, 319, 331 

140 

140 

123 

302 

306 

307 

306 

306 

129, 130. 151. 163. 166. 174. 

181. 187. 190, 197. 207, 284, 

290, 310, 317, 326 

146, 326, illus. 174 
180 
242 

196, 204, 206, 252, 336 
235 
303 
303 

126, 130, 162, 307, 323, 327, 
329 

245 

197 

133, 182, 212, 284 

125. 170. 174. 290. 328 

123, 124. 125, 146, 289, 291, 

316, illus. 335 
133 
213 
212 
244 
244 
244 
244 

244 

244 

264,266 

264, 266 

212. 331 

204. 208, 223, 233, 234 

150 

154, 157. 165. 193, 196, 212, 

277. 289. 296. 316. 325 
157. 162, 163, 165 
323 

324, 336, 339 
323 

324, 336 
320. 326. 332 
323 

324. 336. 339 
326 

252. 324 
323 

324. 339 
120. 124. 126. 128. 145. 173. 

182, 190, 296, 305, 314, 335, 

338 

174, 323, 338 

332 

332 

225, 233, 277, 331 

229 

304, 305 

62, illus. 41 

117, 133, 212, 289. 290 

186. 338 



Betula 



Name 

Betula alba fastigiata 

tenta 

lutea 

nigra 

papyrifera . , 

Populifolia . 
Bibliography. 
Bidens frondosa . 
Biennials 
Bignonia capreolata 

chinensis . 

hybrida 

radicans . . 

speciosa ^ . 

unguis-cati . 

Birch (in variety) 

American White 

Black . . . 

European White 

Paper . 

Pyramidal White 

Red ... 

Yellow . , . 
Birds .... 

Attracted by fritits 

Cover plants for 

Fruits for . 
Bitter-sweet . 

American . . 

Chinese 

Japanese . 
Bixa orellana . 
Blackberry Lily . 
Black Haw 
Bladder-nut , . 

American . 

European . 
Bladder Senna . 
Blanket Flower . 

Blazing Star . . 
Bleeding Heart . 

Wild . . . 
Bloodroot . . 
BluebeU ... 
Blueberry 

High-bush 

Low 
Blue Flowers. 

Perennials . 

Shrubs 
Blue Lily-of-the-Nile 
Bluet . . . 

Creeping . 

Mountain . 
Bocconia cordata. 
Boggy soils. Plants for 
Boltonia, Aster-like 

asteroides . 

Broad-scaled . 

latisquama 
Bombaxceiba. 
Books, Bibliography of. 
Border Planting. 

Collected native shrubs 
Low -growing shrubs 
Medium-growing shrubs 
Tall-growing shrubs . 

Refined lawn areas . 
Low-growing shrubs . 
Medium-growing shrubs 
Tall-growing shrubs 
Botany. Books on . . . 

Bottle-Brush 

BougairwiUea (in variety) . 

braziliensis 

glabra sanderiana 



386 



Bougainvillea 



Group 

14-A-b, 16-A, 16-D-b-l 
46-F . . . 
22-A, 44-C-a . 
21. 22-A. 24-A-a 
21. 26-A-a. 44-E-b 
21, 25- A, 26-A-a 

36-B" .' .' .' 
31-J . . . 
43-C-b, 45-L . 
43-C-a. 45-L . 
45-L , . . 
29-E-c. 34-A, 34-B, 

45-L, 46-G 
43-C-b . . 
43-J-c . . 
10-C, 14-A-a, 30-/ 

40-C-b . . 
21. 25-A, 26-A-a 
46-F . . . 
25-A. 46-F. . 
21. 26-A-a, 44-E-b . 
14-A-b, 16-A, 16-D-b-I 
21. 22-A. 24-A-a . . 
22-A, 44-C-a . . . 

20-D-c 

20-D< 

30 

20-D-a. 20-D-b . . 
20-D-b, 24-B-c, 39, 45-G 
20-B. 20-C, 25-C, 29-E-c 34-C 

44-B-b 
45-L 

18-B, 29-E<, 34-D, 46-G 
43-D . . . 
30-B, 45-J . . 
16-B-b, 19-B, 27 
42-B-a . . . 
13-B-c. 20-A. 20-B, 28-A, 45-H-l 
20-A, 45-H-b 

19-F-b, 20-A. 20-B, 40-B, 41 
29-G, 31-B-h, 31-D, 31-F, 31-1, 

32-H-a, 43-1, 45-1 
24-E, 31-C-a, 31-E. 31-G, 45-J 
31-B-c, 31-F, 40-A 
15-C, 31-B-g . . 
28-B. 29-C, 31-B-b, 31-C-b. 40-A 
29-H, 31-B-a, 45-J 
20-B, 20-D-a, 24-A-a, 30-A, 
22-B, 24-B-b, 44-C-b 
40-C-a .... 

31-B-a, 31-B-e, 31-B-i 
I9-H, 43-F-e 
16<; . . 
29-H . , 
45-A-a . . 
15-C. 31-B-e, 31-1 
31-B-f, 31-E, 31-K< 
24-A-a .... 
31-B-j, 31-E, 31-F, 



31-B-j, 31-E, 31-F, 
31-B-k . 
31-B-k . 
43-B-b . 

13 '. '. 
13-B . 
13-B-a . 
13-B-b . 
13-B-c . 
13-A . 
13-A-a . 
13-A-b . 
13-A-c . 

43-F-d,'43-j-b 
16-C, 43-J-c 
43-C-a . . 
43-C-a . . 



135, 144, 147 

338 

173, 314 

169, 173, 180 

169, 189, 315 

169, 186, 189 

343 

212 

233 

303,332 

303,332 

207. 260, 261, 303, 332, 338 



117, 133, 212, 284, 289, 290, 

illus. 190 
169, 186, 189 
338 

186, 338 
169, 189, 315 
135, 144, 147 
169, 173, 180 
173, 314 
166 
166 
211 

165, 166 

166. 182, 284, 327 

162, 163, 187, 207, 261, 314 

332 

151, 207, 261, 338 

304 

212, 331 

145, 155, 193 
297 

131. 162, 163, 197, 329 

162, 329 

158, 162, 289, 293 

209, 226, 229, 230, 232, 240, 

246. 309. 330 
184, 227, 230, 231. 331 

223, 230, 289 
140, 225 

198, 205, 223, 228, 289 
209, 222, 331 

163, 166, 180, 212, 253 
173, 182, 314 

290 

222, 224, 226 

159, 307 
146 
209 
319 

139, 224, 232 

224, 229, 234, 235 
180 

226, 229, 230, 232 

226. 229, 230, 232 

226 

226 

302 

343 

127 

130 

130 

130 

131 

128 

128 

129 

129 

343 

307, 310 

146, 311 
303 
303 



Box 



387 



Buxus 



Name 



Box, Dwarf . 

Golden Japanese . 

Handworth's Tree 

Tree .... 

Victorian . 
Boxwood .... 

Brachycome iberidifolia . 
Brambles. 

Brickwork, Vines for 

Bridal Wreath . . 

Van Houtte's . 



Brier, Lord Petizance Hybrid. 

Sweet 

Broad-leaved Evergreens 
Broussonelia papyrijer 
Buckeye .... 

Sweet .... 
Buckthorn . 

Alder .... 

Carolina . 

Common . 

Sea .... 

BuddUia (in variety) 

davidi .... 

Sweet-scented 

veitchiana . 
Buffalo Berry . . 

Canadian . 
Bugle .... 

Erect .... 
Bulbs, Articles on . 

Books on . . . 
Bulb Culture. . . 

Characteristics of bulbs , 

Depth for planting bulbs 

Fertilizers for bulbs . 

Forcing bulbs . 

Mulching bulbs . 

Reproduction of bulbs 

Soil and drainage require- 
ments 

Time for planting bulbs. 

Treatment after flowering 
Bulbs, Discussion of uses for 

Best varieties for forcing 

For forcing in soil 

For forcing in water , 

Narcissi for different locations 

Naturalizing in woodland and 
wild gardens .... 

Refined lawn and garden areas 

Tulip combinations 
Cottage . 
Darwins. 
Double . 



42-A-a 
13-A-b 
i, 38-C 



Group 

12-B, 15-A, 45-B-a, 45-F-b 
45-F-b. . . . 
45-F-d .... 
40-C-b, 43-E-b, 45-B- 
43-E-a .... 
16-B-a, 16-C, 37-B- 

45-H-b . . . 
32-A, 32-E. 32-G-a-2 
20-D-a, 30-A . . 
34-B .... 
13-A-b, 19-A. 19-G-b, 
12-D, 12-E-c, 12-E-e, 

19-G-a, 19-1, 24-B 

45-F-c, 46-C-a 
37-B-a . . . 
20-B, 20-D-b, 37-B-a 
33-E-b . . . 
43-B-a. 45-H-a 
39 ... 
45-C . . . 
11-B, 20-D-b, 
12-A-b . . . 
12-C, 27. 28-A 
12-A-b, 12-D. 12-E-b 

24-B-b, 25-B, 40-C 
12-A-b. 12-E-d, 17 

26-A-c, 33-E-b, 42 
31-H, 45-F-c. 45-H-b 
42-A-b . . . 
42-A-b . . . 
19-D, 19-H. 37-A 
12-E-b, 12-E-d 
12-E-b. 12-E-d, 25 
28-B, 29-A, 29-C 
31-B-a . . . 



Page 



12-E 
b, 42-A 
20-B, 
A-a, 



36-E- . 
36-E-a . 
36-E-b . 
36-C . 



Single 
Bull Brier . 
Bulrush . 
Great . 
Bunchberry . 
Burnet 
Burning Bush 

Cork-barked 

Butomus ujnbellatus . 
Buttercup 
Double . 
Butterfly Flower 
Butterfly Weed . 
Butternut 
Button Bush. 
Buxus (in variety) 

japonica aurea. 
sempervirens . 
sempervirens handworlhi 
suSruticosa 



36-B . . . 
36-A . . . 
36-D . . . 
36-D-c . . . 
36-D-d . . 
36-D-b . . 
36-D-a . . . 
25-C . . . 
31-L-b . . . 
31-L-b . . . 
15-A, 28-B, 29-C 
37-B-b . . . 
13-B-c, 20-A, 21 

42-A-a . . 
13-A-b, 14-B, 16-B 

46-F . . . 
31-L-b . . . 
30-A . . . 
15-C . . . 
32-A, 32-E. . 
31-C-a, 45-1 . 
40-C-a, 45-H-a 
13-B-b. 20-A, 24 
16-B-a, 16-C, c 

45-H-b . . 
45-F-b . . . 
40-C-b, 43-E-b, 45-B-a 
45-F-d . 
12-B, 15-A, 45-B-a, 45-F 



F-c 
19-B, 
42-A-a, 



16-D-a, 

44-A 
24-B-b, 



B-a, 



124, 138, 320, 324 
324 

326 

290, 305, 320 

305 

145, 146. 277, 316, 320, 329 

240, 242, 244 

166, 212 

260 

129, 154, 159, 297, 326 

125, 126, 129, 149, 155, 158, 
159, 182, 281, 297, 326, 337 

277 

163, 166, 277 

2.52 

301, 327 

284 

321 

120, 166 

124 

125, 193, 197 

124, 125, 126, 147, 181, 187, 

291, 296. 313 
124, 126, 149, 163, 181. 190, 

253, 296, 313 
232, 325, 329 
297 

297, illus. 226 
156, 159, 276, 289 
126 

126, 187, 190, 207 
197, 203, 205 
222 

349 
343 
65 
65 



68 

267 

273 

273 

274 

271 

270, illus. 351. 366 

270, Ulus. 350 

271 

272 

272 

272 

271 

187 

234 

234 

138, 197, 205 

277 

131, 162, 163, 166, 174, 296 

129, 135, 145, 162, 173, 338 

234 

212 

140 

240,242 

227, 330 

290, 328 

131, 162, 180, 296 

145, 146, 277, 316, 320 

324 

290, 305, 320 

326 

J24, 138, 320, 324 



Cabbage Palmetto 



Name 

Cabbage Palmetto . 
Caesalpina pulcherrima 

puicheTjima flava 
Calaba Tree . 
Caladium .... 
Calandrinia nmbetlata 
Calcareous soils. Lilies for 
Calendula officinalis. 
Calla paluslTts . . 
Callicarpa (in variety) 

americana . 

purpurea . ... 
Callislenwn (in variety) 

lanceolatus . 
Callistephus chinensis 

hortensis 
Callitris robusta , 

Calluna vulgaris 

vulgaris alba . 
Calonyction aculeatum 
Calophyllum calaba . 
Caltha palustris . 

palustris ftore pleno 
Calycanthus floridus. 

occidentalis . 
Camassia esculenta , 
Camellia japonica 
Campanula carpatica 

carpatica alba . 

medium calycanthema 

medium, pink . 

persicifolia . 

peTsicifolia alba 

persicifolia caerulea 

pyjamidalis 

pyramidalis alba 
Camperdown Weeping 
Camphor Tree 
Campion, Autumn . 

Seaside. 

Red .... 
CamptosOTus rhizophyllu 
Canangium odoratum 
Canary Bird Vine 
Canby's Mountain Lover 
Candle-nut . 
Candytuft . . . 

Evergreen . 

Rocket. 
Canterbury Bells 
Cape Jasmine 

Fortune's . 
Veilch's 
Caragana (in variety) 
arborescens . 

frutescens . 

micTophvlla . . 
Cardinal Climber 
Cardinal Flower. 

Blue .... 
Cardiospermum halicacabum 
Carex (in variety) 
Carissa acuminata 

bispinosa . 
Carnation 

Carpet bedding. Annuals 
Carpinus betulus 

betulus fastigiata . 

betulus globosa . 

caroliniana . 
Carva (in variety) . 

alba .... 

aguatica 

myristicaeformis . 

ovata .... 

pecan .... 



388 



Carya 



Page 



for 



45-B 



43-B-b . . 
43-F-d, 43-J-b 
43-F-c . . 
43-B-b . . 
35-A-c, 35-B-c 
24-E . . 

32-A'. 32-H-a 
31-L-b . . 
44-G . . 
43-F-e. 45-F-a, 
13-A-a, 13.B-a, 
43-J-b . . 
43-F-d 
32-H-a, 32-H-b 
32-A, 32-E 
43-B-b . 
43-A . 
26-B-c, 40-C-b, 
45-F-b . 
32-F-b . 
43-B-b . 
31-L-b . 
31-L-c . 
13-B-b, 24-C-b. 

43-F-d, 45-F<, 
45-F-c . . 
36-B . . 
43-F-b. 43-H, 
15-C, 29-A, 31 
31-B-f . . 
31-B-e, 31-J 
31-B-f . . 
31-B-g . . 
31-B-e . . 
31-B-f . . 
31-H . . 
31-B-«. 31-J 
31-B-f . . 
14-A . . 
43-A. 43-B-b, • 
15-C . . 
IS-C . . 
31-J . . 
29-D-a, 29-F 
43-B-b . . 
32-F-a . . 
15-A. 24-A-b. ; 
43-B-b . . 
32-A. 32-B. 32 
15-C, 29-A, 2M 

33-E-b. 46-B-a 
32-G-! ~ 
31-B-e, 31-B-f, 
43-E-a, 43-F-a, 

45-H-b. 45-K-b 
45-F-d . 
45-F-d . 
42-B-a . 
12-E-b. 

25-A . 
41 . . 
12-E-b . 
32-F-b . 
31-B-g, 31-C-a, 31 
31-B-e . . 
32-F-a 
30-b, 31-L-B 
43- D. 43-J-b 
34-E-a . . 
43-1 . . 
32-G . . 
12-A-b, 16-A. 
14-A-b . . 
16-B-b . . 
12-C, 16-D-a. 
40-C-a . . 
22-B . . 
45-H-a 
45-H-a . . 
38-C-a . . 
45-H-a 



B-g, 31-J 
-B-a, 45-F 



302 

307, 310 

307 

302 

265,266 

184 

257 

240,245 

234 

316. 

307, 323. 327 

128. 130, 162, 323, 329 

310 

307 

245. 24fi 

240. 242 

302 

301 

191, 291, 324, 336 

324 

242 

302 

234 

131. 182. 193. 196, 276, 289, 

307. 325, 337 
325 
270 
306, 308, 320. 324. 329 

139. 204. 224. 229 
224 

224. 233 

224 

225 

224 

224 

231 

224. 233 

224 

134 

301. 302, 305, 320 

140 

140 

233 

206, 208 

302 

242 

138, 181, 197 

301 

240, 241, 244 

140, 204, 208, 223, 235, 253. 
336 

244 

224. 225. 233 

305. 306. 320. 325, 326, 329, 

332 
326 
326 
297 
126. 135. 155, 158, 181, 186 

293 
126 
242 

225, 227, 235 
224 

242 

212, 234 
304, 310 
305 
309 
243 

124. 144. 145, 146, 291 
135 

145 

125, 146, 173. 196, 290 
290 

173 
327 
328 
280 
328 



Caryopteris 

Name 

Caryopteris incana . 

incana Candida 
Cassia corymbosa 

fistula .... 

Yellow .... 
Castanea (in variety) 
Casuarina equisetifolia 
Cataipa (in variety) 

bignonioides 

bignonioides nana, 

bungei .... 

Round-leaved 

speciosa . . . 

Western 
Catchfly .... 

Alpine .... 
Catesby's Andromeda 
Catmint .... 
Cattley Guava . 
Ceanothus americanus 

hybridus 
Cedar .... 

Blue Virginia . 

Columnar Tufted . 

Compact White . 

Globe Red . . . 

Incense. — See Incense 

Japanese 

Lebanon, — see 
Lebanon . 

Mt. Atlas . . 

Mt. Atlas Silver 

F*yramidal Red 

Red . . . 



Rocky Mountain Silver 

Schotfs Red . 

Southern Red 

Spreading Red 

West Indian . 

White . . . 

Yellow . . . 
Cedar of Lebanon 
Cedrela, Chinese. 

odorata 



389 



Cedar 
of 



Cedronella 
Cedrus allantica . 

atlantica glauca 

deodara. 

libani .... 
CelastTtts (in variety) 
angulalus . 
orbiculatus 
scandens 

Celosia argentea . 

Plumed 
Celtis mississippiensis 

occidenlalis . 



imperiatis . 

gymnocoTpa 

macrocephala . 

ntontana 
Centratithus ruber 
Century Plant 
Cephatanthus occidenlalis 
Cephataria tatarica 
Cephatotaxus (in variety) 

drupacea 

Sortunei. . 

harringtoniana fasligiata 
Cerastium tomentosum 

Ceratiola ericoides . 



Group 

13-A-a, 16-C, 19-H, 31-B 

45-H-b . . . 
31-B-j .... 
45-F-c. 45-K-b 
43-B-b .... 
43-B-b .... 
30-B .... 
43-A, 43-B-b. 43-J-a 
10-C, 19-C, 20-F, 39, 
24-C-a .... 
16-B-b .... 
14-A-a. 16-A. 45-E, 45-H 
14-A-a, 16-A. 45-E, 45-H 
20-A. 23-A. 37-A-b 
20-A, 23-A, 37-A-b 
31-C-a .... 
29-F .... 
28-A, 29-H. 33-E-b, 45-F 
15C24-E. . 
43-E-a . . . 
13-B-a. 18-B. 27, 28-A. 42-A 

45-F-a 

44-F 

16-A, 44-D, 45-D. 45-E 
9-A. 16-A .... 

45-D 

9-E 

43-B-b. 45-D . . . 



45-D, 45-K-a, 46-H-a . . . 

45-D 

14-A-b 

9-A, 9-D. 11-A, 12-C, 14-A-a. If 
20-D-b. 24-B-a. 25-A. 26-A-b. 29-1 
38-C-a, 43-J-a. 44-A-a. 44-D. 45-B- 

9-A 



9-A, 14-A-b, 16-A, 16-D-b-2, 45-E 

43-E-a . . 

18-A . . 

43-B-b . . 

24-A-a, 45-E 

16-B-a, 46-H 

43-B-a, 45-D. 45-K-a, 46-H-a 

45-H-a . 

43-B-b . 

45-H-a . 

37-B-b . 

45-D, 45-K-a, 46-H-a 

45-D . 

43-B-a. 45-B-a, 45-D, 45-E, 

46-H-a 
43-B-a. 45-D. 45-K-a, 46-H-; 
20-D-b, 24-B-c, 45-G 
45-L .... 
18-B. 28-E-c, 34-D, 46-G 
20-B. 20-C. 25-C, 29-E-c. 34-C, 

44-B-b 
32-H-b 
32-H-b 
45-C 
10-B. 11-A. 20-D-a. 

43-B-a, 44-C-a, 44-E 
45-C 
32-A 
32-G-b-l 

32-A. 32-C, 32-D, 32-1 
32-A 
32-G-b-l 
31-B-h . 

15-C, 31-B-e, 31-1 
45-J . 
43-1 

13-B-b, 20-A, 24-A-a, 
31-B-h . . 
9-C . . . 
45-D . . 
45-D. 45-H-a 
45-E . . 
15-C. 24-E, 29-B, 29-1 

31-H, 31-M-a 
45-A-b . . . 



Ceratiofa 

Page 

128, 146, 159, 226, 323, 329 

226 

325, 332 

302 

302 

212 

301, 

117, 

182 

145 

133. 144. 322, 328 

133. 144. 322. 328 

162. 177. 276 

162. 177, 276 

227 

208 

196, 209. 253, 325 



130, 151, 193, 196, 297 

323 

316, illus. 78 

144, 314, 322, 323 



322. 331, 339 

322 

135 

111, 113, 119. 125. 133, 144. 

166, 181, 186, 190, 207. 281, 

310. 313. 314. 320 
111 



151 

302 

180, 323 

145, 339 

301, 322, 331. 339 

328 

302 

328 

277 

322, 331. 339 

322 

301. 320, 322, 331, 339 

301, 322, 331, 339 

166. 182. 327 

332 

151, 207, 261. 338 

162. 163, 187, 207, 261, 314 



321 

117. 119, 165. 167, 191, 301, 

314, 315, 321 
321 
240 

240, 241, 245, 280 

240 

244 

139. 224. 232 

331 

309 

131, 162. 180, 296 

225 

113 

322 

322, 328 

322 

139. 184. 204, 208, 209, 223, 

231, 235 
319 



Ceratostigma 



390 



Christmas Rose 



Ceratostigma plumbaginoides 
Cercidiphyllum japonicum 
Cercis canadensis 



Cereus triangularis . 
Cereus Vine . 
Cestrum aurantiacutn 

elegans .... 

Yellow .... 
Chaenomeles japonica 



Chalcas paniculata . 
Chalice Vine . . 
Chalk Plant . . . 
Chamaecyparis (in variety) 

ericoides 

lawsoniana . 

nootkatensis 

obtusa . 

obtusa nana 

obtusa nana 

pisif, 

pisifi 



filifera. . 
plumosa . 
sguarrosa 



pisrfi 

thyoidi 

Chamaedaphne calyculata 
Chamomile . 
Chaste Tree . 
Cheiranthus altioni . 

cheiri .... 
Chenille Plant . . 
Cherokee Rose . 
Cherry .... 

Carolina Laurel . 

Cornelian . 



European Double-flowering 

Evergreen .... 

Flowering .... 

Hybrid European Bird 

Islands .... 

Japanese Flowering . 

Japanese Pink-flowering 

Japanese Weeping Rose- 
flowering . 

Rose-pink Flowering 

Sand .... 

Weeping 

Western Sand . 

Wild .... 

Wild Black . . 
Chestnut .... 

Chinese Flowering 
Chickweed 
Chilopsis linearis 

soligna . . . 
Ckimaphila maculata 

umbellata . 
Chimney Bell-flower 
China Aster . , . 

Chrysanthemum-flowered 

Early Half-dwarf 

Late-flowering 

Quilled .... 
China Wood-oil Tree . 
Chinese Pine 
Chinese Sweet Shrub . 
Chiosenes hispidula , 
Chionanthus retusa . 

virginica .... 

Chionodoxa (in variety). 

lucitiae .... 
Chokeberry .... 

Black 

Red 

Christmas Berry. . 
Christmas Rose . 



15-C, 29-F. 31-B-i, 3I-M-a 

14-A-a. 16-A, 22-A. 45-E 

11-A. 13-A-c. 14-A-a, 19-A. 19-&a, 



A-a. 43-B-a, 44-G 



22-A. 40-C-a. 41, 42 
43-C-a 
43-C-a 
43-F-c 
43-F-b 
43-F< 
12-A-b, 14-B, 19-A, 19-1 

43-F-b, 46-A-a, 46-E 
45-F-c .... 
43-D, 43-F-a . . 
43-C-a .... 
45-1 .... 
14-A-a, 42-E, 44-G, 
45-D .... 
9-C, 14-A-b, 45-D, 45 
16-B-a, 46-H-a 
9-A, 9-B . . , 
9-E, 15-A, 16-B-a. 
9-E, 15-A . . . 
9-C. 45-D . . . 
9-B. 45-D . . . 
9-C, 12-A-a, 45-D 
9-B .... 
24-A-a, 45-E . . 
18-A, 26-A-c, 29-H. 33 
37-B-b .... 
16-C, 19-D, 19-H, 40 
24-E .... 
32-E, 37-A-c . . 
43-E-a, 43-F-d, 43-1 
43-C-a .... 
20-D-a, 39 . . 
43-E-a. 45-B-a, 45-H- 
12-D, 19-F-a, 24-B 
46-C-a . . . 

17 

45-H-b . . . 
41, 42-B-a, 44-G . 
14-A-a, 24-B-a . 
45-H-b . . . 
19-A, 19-E-a, 33-C 
33-C .... 



33-C .... 
33-C .... 
26-B-a .... 
14-A-a .... 
19-E:-a .... 
30-A .... 
26-A-a, 38-A . . 
30-B, 39 . . . 
19-C, 42-B-a . . 
30-A, 30-B. . . 
45-H-b. 45-K-b . 
45-H-a .... 
28-B. 33-E-b . . 
33-E-b .... 
31-B-e, 31-B-f, 31-J 
32-A, 32-E. . . 
32-H-b . . . 
42-H-a . . . 
32-H-b . . . 
32-H-a . . . 
45-H-a, 45-K-a . 
43-B-a .... 
45-F-a .... 
33-E-b .... 
14-B .... 
13-B-c, 14-B, 17, 19- 
22-A, 42-A-a, 43-F 
36-E-a .... 
36-A .... 
20-D-a .... 
13-B-b, 24-A-a, 28-A, 
13-B-b, 24-A-a, 28-A, 
45-H-a .... 
29-A. 31-B-b, 31-F, 33 



45- 

45-'F-c 
H . 

b. 38-A 



Pace 

140, 208, 226, 235 
133, 144. 173, 322 
119, 129. 133. 154, 157, 173, 

291, 293, 296, 301, 316, 
303 
303 
307 
306 
307 

124, 135, 154, 159, 174. 293, 
306, 335, 337 

325 

304, 306 
303 
330 

133, 298, 316, 320, 339 
322 

113, 135, 322, 323, 335, 339 

145, 339 

111, 112 

114. 138, 145 
114, 138 
113, 322 

112, 322 

113, 123,322 
112 

180, 323 

151, 190. 209, 252 

277 

146, 156, 159, 290. 329 
184 

242, 276 

305, 307, 309 
303 
165.284 

305. 320, 329, 332 

125, 157, 181, 193, 293, 316. 
336 

149 

329 

293, 297, 317 

133, 181 

329 

154, 157, 250 

250 

250, illus. 223 

250 

191 

133 

157 

212 

189, 279 

212,284 

156,297 

212, 213 

329,332 

328 

197, 252 

252 

224.233 

240,242 

246 

245 

246 

245 

327, 331 

301 

324 

252 

135 

131, 135, 149. 155, 158, 162, 

173. 296. 306. 329 
274 
270 
165 

130. 180. 196. 325 
130. 180, 196, 209 
328 
204, 223, 230, 253, 279 



Chrysanthemum 



391 



Closed Gentian 



Name 


Group 


Pace 




Chrysanthemum (in variety) 


. 31-A,31-B-j,31-B-k,31-B-1.31-F,31-I, 221, 226. 227. 230. 232 


233 




31-K-a, 39, 40-B, 43-1 . . . 


. . 284, 289, 309 




coTonarium 


32-A 


. . 240 




coTonarium fiore plena 


32-G-b-2 


. . 244 




Double Summer . . . 


32-G-b-2 


. . 244 




Glory of Seven Oaks 
Hardy 


31-H 


. . 232 




31-B-j, 31-B-k, 31-B-l, 31-F, 31-K 


a . 226, 227, 230, 233 




indicum 


31-K-c 


. . 233 




teucanthemum .... 


38-C-a 


. . 280 




maximum 


. 31-K-c 


. . 233 




maximum King Edward . 


31-D 


. . 229 




parlhenium aureum 


32-G-b-l 


. . 244 




parthenium glaucum . 
Pompon 


. 32-G-b-l 


. . 244 




31-K-c : . . 


. . 233 




Shasta daisy .... 


31-B-f, 31-F, 31-H, 31-1 . . . 


. . 225, 230, 231, 232 




Summer 


32-A 


. . 240 




Cigar Plant 


32-G-a-2, 32-G-b-2, 35-B-b . . 


. . 244. 266 




Cimicifuga racemosa . 


28-B, 31-C-a. 45-J .... 


197, 227, 331 




Cineraria maritima . 


35-B-c 


. . 266 




Cinnamomum camphora 


43-A, 43-B-b, 43-E-a, 45-B-a . 


. . 301. 302. 305, 320 




Cinquefoil, Evergreen . . 


33-E-b 


. . 253 




Shrubby 


19-D. 19-F-b, 29-A .... 


. . 156, 158, 204 




Circassian Bean . 


43-B-b 


. . 301 




Circuta maculata. 


. 38-A 


. . 279 




Cistus laurifolius 


45-F-c 


. . 325 




Citrus deliciosa .... 


43-D 


. . 304 




grandis 


43-D 


. . 304 




japonica 


43-D 


. . 304 




Severino's 


43-E-a, 43-H 


. . 305, 308 




sinensis 


43-D 


304 




trifoliata 


12-A-b. 43-E-b, 45-B-b, 45-H-a 


124, 305, 321, 328 




City conditions and effect 


on 






plants 


11 


118 




Lists for 


11 


119 




Cladrastis (in variety) . 


42-B-b 


297 




lutea 


14-A-a, 19-C, 19-G-b, 22-C-a, 45-H 


-a . 133, 155. 158, 173, 328 




Clarkia, Broad-leaved . . 


32-H-b 


246 




Clustered- flowered . . 


32-H-a 


246 




elegans 


32-H-b 


246 




Puichella 


. 32-H-a 


246 




Clay soils 


24-C 


182 




Claytonia virginica . 


. 31-C-b 


228 




Clematis 


34-A 


260 




apiifolia 


45-L 


332 




crispa 


45 L 


332 




davtdtana 


31-B-e, 37-A-c 


224, 276 




David's 


31-B-e, 37-A-c 


224, 276 




fiammula 

Herbaceous .... 


45-L 


332 




31-B-f, 37-A-c 


225, 276 




Japanese 


22-C-b-2, 34-C, 34-D, 34-E, 43-{ 
45-A-b, 46-G 


:-a, 175, 261, 303, 319, 338 




montana 


46-G 


338 




montana rubra. 


46-G 


338 




Paniculata 


22-C-b-2, 34-C, 34-D, 34-E, 43- 
45-A-b, 46-G 


:;-a, 175, 261, 303, 319, 338 




Parsley- leaved . . . 


45-L 


'. 332 




Purple 


45-L 


332 




recta 


. 31-B-f, 31-H, 37-A-c 


225, 231, 276 




Red 


46-G 


338 




Sweet 


. 45-L 


332 




Texas 


45-L 


332 




texensis 


. 45-L 


332 




viorna 


45-L 


332 




virginiana .... 


34-C, 34-D, 45-L 


261, 332 




White 


46-G 


338 




Wild 


34-C, 34-D, 45-L 


261, 332 




Clerodendron siphonanthus . 


43-D 


304 




SQuamatum 


43-1 


309 




Scarlet . 


43-C-a, 43-J-c 


303, 311 




thompsonae 


43-C-a. 43-J-c 


303, 311 




Clethra acuminata 


45-F-c 


325 




alnifolia 


13-B-b, 19-D. 19-G-b. 24-A-a, 26-E 


i-c, 131, 156, 158, 180, 191, 


193, 




27, 28- A, 37-A-a, 42-A-b, 44-G, 46- 


C-b 196, 276, 297, 316, 337 




tomentosa 


45-F-c 


325 




Cleyera 


45-F-b 


324 




Himalayan .... 


45-G, 45-K-b 


327, 332 




japonica 


45-G, 45-K-b 


327, 332 




ochnacea 


45-F-b 


324 




Climbing Roses, Best types 


33-D-a 


251 




Climbing Vines .... 


34-C 


260 




Closed Gentian .... 


31-L-c 


235 





Clover 



392 



Corylopsis 



Clover 






. 30-A . . 




212 


Shrubby Bush. 






45-F-c . . 




. 326 


White . . . 






37-A-c 




277 


Cobaea scandens , 






32-F-a, 35-B-a 


43'-c-a : ; : : 


242. 265, 303, 


Coccoloba uvifera. 






43-J-a . . 




310 


Cocoanut Palm . 






43-B-b . . 




302 


Cocos fftumosa 






43-B-b . . 




302 


Codiaeum. 






35-A-a . . 




264 


variegatum 






43-1 . . 




309 


Cohosh . . . 






28-B . . 




197 


Coieus 






35-B-c . . 




266 


blumei perschaffelli 




31-G-b-l,35-B< 


244,266 


Branched .... 




32-G-b-l 


244 


Collected Stock. 




Transplanting and Estab- 




lishing of 


33 


Colours, Bark .... 


21 


168 


Combinations of flowers for 


31-H 


231, illus. 230, 294, 310 


Flowers selected for . 


19-E, 19-F. 19-G, 19-H. 31-B , , 


156, 157, 158, 159, 222 


Fruits selected for 


20-B 


162, illus. 230 


Leaves selected for autumn 


22 


172 


Tulips selected for combina- 






tions of 


36-D 


271 


Twigs selected for 
Colt's Foot 


21 


169 


29-C 


205 


Columbine (in variety) . 


31-A, 31-F, 31-1, 31-K-a,31-N, 39, 40-A 


221, 230. 232, 233, 236, 284, 




45-1 


289, 330 


American 


15-C, 31.B-C, 31-C-a 


139, 223, 227 


California Hybrid. . 


31-B< 


223 


European 


31-C-a 


227 


Gold-spurred .... 


31-B-d 


223 


Hybrid Pink .... 


31-B-c 


223 


Rocky Mountain . . . 


3I-B-a 


222 


White 


31-B-b 


222 


Colutea arborescens . 


19-F-b, 20-A, 20-B, 40-B, 41 . . 


158, 162, 289, 293 


Combinations of colours 


31-H 


231 


Comptonia asplemfolia . 


13-B-a, 24-B-b, 26-A-c, 29-E-a, 37-B-a 


130, 181, 190, 206, 277. 290, 




40-C-a, 44-B-a, 45-F-a. . . . 


313, 323 


Cone-flower 


31-B-h, 31-E, 31-F, 31-1, 31-K-a . 


226, 230, 232, 233 


Purple 


31-C-a 


227 


Congested City Conditions 


11 


118, illus. 94 


Conium macutatum . 


38-A 


279 


CoTwallaTia tiiaJaUs . 


28-B, 29-C 31-B-b. 31-C-b, 31-1, 36-B 


197, 205, 223, 228, 232, 270, 




36-E-a, 37-A-c 


274, 276 


Copper-leaf 


32-G-b-l 


244 


Coral-bells 


15-C, 30-A, 31-B-c, 31-C-b, 31-1, 45-1 


140, 212, 223, 228, 232, 330 


Red 


15-C, 31-D . 
31-B-h . . . 




140, 229 


Coreopsis grandiflora 




225 


lanceolata 


31-B-h, 31-D, 31-H, 31-1 . . . 


225, 229, 231. 232 


tinctoria 


32-A, 32-D. 43-1 


240, 241, 309 


vtrticillata 


15-C 


140 


Coriaria, Japanese . 


45-G 


327 


japonica 


45-G 


327 


Cork Tree, Chinese . 


10-B, 23-A 


117, 177 


Cornel, Red Osier . 


19-B, 20-B, 23-B, 46-C-b . . . 


155. 162, 177, 337 


Cornflower. American . 


32-A . . 


240 


Old-fashioned .... 


32-A, 32-C, 32-D, 32-H-a, 38-C-a . 


240. 241, 245, 280 


Cornus (in variety) .... 


11-B, 13-A-b, 17, 19-G-a, 20-D-a 


120, 129, 149, 158, 165, 182, 




24-C-b, 42-A-a 


296 


alba 


21 '.'.'.'.'.'. 


169 


alba sibtTtca 


19-C, 20-B, 21, 23-B, 25-B . . . . 


153-, 162, 169, 177, 187 


alternifolia 


19-B, 20-B, 27, 28-A 


155, 162, 193, 196 




26-B-c 


191 


canadensis 


15-A, 28-B, 29-C 


138, 197, 205 


capitata 

fiorida 


45-H-b 


329 


13-B-c, 14-A-a, 19-A, 20-B, 22-C-a, 


131, 133, 154; 162, 173, 181. 


24-B-a, 27, 28-A, 40-B, 40-C-b. 43-B-a. 


193, 196, 289, 291, 301, 316, 


44-G. 45-G, 45-H-a 


327, 328 


flmida rubra 19-E-a 


157 


kousa 




14-A-a. 44-G 


133, 316 






12-D, 19-F-a, 24-B-b, 27, 41, 44-G, 


125, 157, 181, 193, 293, 316, 
336 







46-C-a . . - 


nuttalli ..... 


46-C-b, 46-F . 
16-B-b, 19-C, 2 




337, 338 


paniculata 


o-B, 21, 4'6-c-a ; '. '. 


145, 155, 162. 170, 336 


paucinervis 




45-F-c 


325 


sanguinea viridissima . 




21 


170 


stolonifera 




19-B, 20-B, 23-B. 46-C-b . . . . 


155, 162, 177. 337 


slolontfera flavirammea . 




14-B. 21 


135, 170 


CoTonilla cappadocica . 




45-A-b 


319 


emerus 




45-A-b. 45-F-a 


319, 323 


varia 




15-C. 45-A-b . 
19-F-a, 45-F-a. 




140. 319 


Corylopsis pauciflora 






157, 323 


spicata 




37-A-a 


276 



Corylus 



393 



Crape Myrtle 



Name 


GROtn- 






Page 


Corylus (in variety) . . 


. .30-A.30-B 212 


americana 


13-B-c. 41 






131. 293 


tnellana 


24-C-b 

16-D-a 






182 

146 


maxima purpurea. 


14-B. 45-F-e, 45-H-b . . 






135, 325, 329 


Cosmos 


32-A, 32-E 






240. 242 


bipinnatiis 


32-A, 32-E 






240, 242 


Cotoneaster (in variety) 


20-B, 22-B, 42-A-a, 45-F-c, 45- 


2 




. 162, 173, 296, 325, 327, 


acuminata 


43-D, 43-F-b 






304, 306 


aculifolia 


45-F-c 






325 


adpressa 


15-B. 22-C-b-l, 33-E-b . . 






139, 174, 253 


Box-leaved 


45-B-a, 45-F-b .... 






320, 325 


Chinese 


13-A-b, 20-B 






129, 162 


Chinese Prostrate. . . 


45-F-b 






324 


Creeping 


15-B, 22-C-b-l, 33-E-b . . 






139, 174, 253 


dammeri 


45-F-b 






324 


dielsiana 


13-A-b, 20-B 






129. 162 


divaricata 


20-B 






162 


Dwarf 


4S-F-b 






325 


francheti 


45-G, 46-C-a, 46-H-b. . . 






327. 336, 340 


frigida 


43-D, 43-F-a, 45-G . . . 






304. 306, 327 


horizontalis .... 


15-B, 22-C-b-l, 29-E-a. 29-H, 
40-B, 45-F-b, 45-G, 46-H-b 


33 


E-t 


, 139. 174, 207, 209, 253, 289, 
325. 327. 340 


horizontalis perpusilla 


20-B 






162 


hupehensis .... 


20-B 






162 


Hybrid 


13-A-b 






129 


Hybrid Prostrate . . 


20-B 






162 


lucida 


13-A-b 






129 


microphylla .... 


33-E-b, 45-F-b, 45-G, 46-H-b 






253. 325, 327, 340 


microphylla gracilis . 


45-F-b 






325 


muUiflora 


45-F< 






325 


multtftora calocarpa . 


20-B 






162 


Pointed-leaved . . . 


45-F-c 






325 


pantwsa . , , , , 


43-D, 43-F-a 






304. 306 


Prostrate ..... 


15-B, 22-C-b-l, 29-E-a, 29-H, 
40-B. 45-F-b, 45-G, 46-H-b 


33- 


E-b 


139. 174, 207, 209, 253, 289, 
325, 327. 340 


racemiflora 


20-B. 45-F-c 






162. 325 


rotundijolia .... 


45-F-b 






325 


rolundifolia lanata 


45-B-a, 45-F-b .... 






320, 325 


Round-leaved 


45-F-b 






325 


salicifolia floccosa 


20-E 

45-F-d, 45-G, 46-C-a. . . 






162 

326, 327, 336 


Small-leaved .... 


33-E-b, 45-F-b, 45-G, 46-H-b 






253. 325, 327. 339 


Spanish 


45-F-c 






325 


Thyme-leaved. 


45-F-b 






325 


thymijolia 


45-F-b 






325 


Cotton Gum .... 


45-H-a 






328 


Cotton Tree, Silk . . . 


43-B-b 






302 


Cottonwood, Northern . 


26-A-a. 45-H-a .... 






189. 328 


Southern 


38-C-a, 45-H-a .... 






281. 328 


Western 


24-D 






183 


Cow-parsnip, Giant. . . 


31-L-c 






235 


Cowbane 


38-A 






279 


Cowslip, English 


15-C, 29-F. 31-B-d . . . 






140. 208. 224 


Crab 


13-B-c, 14-A-a, 19-B. 30-A. 40-C-b 




131. 134, 155, 212, 291 


Arnold's Large Rose-flower 








ing 


33-C 




251 


Bechtel's 


19-E-b, 33-C, 37-A-a. . . 






157, 250, 276 


Carmine-flowering 


33-C 






250 


Chinese Flowering, River's 










Semi-double. 


33-C, 37-A-a 






251, 276 


Deep Pink-flowering . . 


33-C 






251 


Flowering 


19-E-a. 37-A-a .... 






157, 276 


Low-growing Japanese . 


33-C 






251 


Narrow-leaved . . . 


19-E-a. 37-A-a .... 






157, 276 


Parkman's 


19-E-a, 33-C, 41 ... . 






157, 250, 293 


Sargent's White-flowering 


33-C 






251 


Scheidecker's Semi-double 










Rose-flowering . 


33-C 






251, illus. 222 


Siberian Flowermg . 


20-A, 24-B-a. 25-A, 33-C, 37-A- 






162, 181, 186, 250, 276 


SieboWs Blush-flowering 


33-C 






251 


Western 


44-E-b 






315 


Wild 


19-E-a, 37-A-a, 45-H-a . . 






157, 276, 328 


Crab's Eye Vine. . . . 


43-C-a 






302 


Cranberry. American High Busl 


1 19-1, 20-C, 46-C-b . . . 






159, 164, 337 


Dwarf Bush 


12-B, 15-B, 16-B-b, 18-B, 22-C-b-l 




125, 139, 145. 151, 175 


High Bush 


13-A-c, 17, 19-C, 20-C, 25-B-, 27 




130. 149, 156, 164, 187, 193 


Japanese Bush . . . 


13-A-b, 20-C 




129, 164, illus. 231 


Crane's Bill 


15-C, 28B, 31-B-c .... 




140, 197, 223 


Crape Myrtle .... 


16-C, 43-F-a, 43-F-b, 43-F-d. 


43- 


F-e 


146, 306, 307, 310, 329, 332 



43-J-b, 45-H-b, 45-K-b 



Crataegus 

Name 

Crataegus (in variety) 

arnoldiana 

coccinea 

collina . 

cordata . 

CTus-galli . 

mollis 

monoeyna . 

monogyna alba plet 

monogytia punicea . 

monog.yna rosea 

rnotiogyna rutrra plena 

oxycanlka .... 

oxycanlha pauli . 

Punctata .... 

vailiae 

Crevices, Plants for . 

Paved areas . . . 

Walks 

Walls 

Crimson Glory Vine 
Crocus I 

Mammoth Yellow 
Cross Fl ower .... 
Cross Vine, South American 

Croton 

Crowberry, Black- fruited 

Pink-fruited 

Red-fruited . . . 
Crown Vetch .... 

European .... 

Mediterranean 
CryPtomeria jappnica 

japonica lobbi . 
Cjyptoste^ia madagascariensis 

Pink Madagascar. 
Cucumber Tree . 
Cucumber, Wild. 
Cunninghamia, Chinese 

lanceolata .... 

sinensis .... 
Cuphea ignea. . . . 

Uavea 

Cupressus sempervirens fasti 

giata . . . 
Cup and Saucer Vine 
Currant, Alpine . 

American Black . 

Flowering . 

Indian, {See Indian-currant) 
Curving roadway plantings 
Cut flower garden vs. flower 

garden . 
Cut flowers 

Annuals for 

Perennials for 
Cyperus 

alter nijolius 

strigosus 
Cypress (in variety) 

Dwarf Golden J, 

Dwarf Japanese 

Italian 

Japanese .... 

Lawson's .... 

Lobb's 

Pea-fruited 

Plume-like 

Thread-branched . . 

Veitch's Silver 
Cypress Pine .... 
Cypress Vine 
Cypripedium (in variety) 

candidum .... 
Cytisus pjaecox . 

scoparius .... 



394 



Group 



Cytisus 



ll-A, 12-E-d, 13-B*. 14-A-a, 19-B, 

19-G-a,20-B,20-C,22-B,4O-B, 

33-C 
33-C 

25-A, 



12-A-b. 20-D- 
45-G . . 
12-A-b, 20-D-b 
12-A-b. 16-B-b, 
33-C . 
12-E-e 
33-C . 
33-C . 
33-C . 
33-C . 
12-A-b, ] 

20-D-b, 25-A. 
33-C . 
33-C . 
45-G . 



15 . . 
29-E-c . . 
36- A, 36-E-b 
36-E-b . . 
43-C-b, 45-L 
43-C-b . . 
35-A-a. 43-1 
33-E-b . . 
33-E-b . . 
33-E-b . . 
15-C . . 
45-A-b . . 
45-A-b . . 
43-B-b, 45-D 
45-E . . 
43-J-c . . 
43-J-c . . 
20- A, 45-C. 45-H-a 
32-F-b . 
45-E 
45-E . 
43-B-a . 



32-G-a-2 
32-G-b-2, 35-B 

45-D, 45-E 
32-F-a. 35-B-a, 
44-A- 
25-B 

13-A-b, 17, 19 
41. 44-B-a 



18 



43-1 
45-b 



, 26-B-a, 44-A 



43-C-a 
B, 19-: 



45-B 



31-L-b 
35-B<, 
31-L-b 
. 14-A-a, 
9-E, 15 
9-E, 15-A, 16- 
45-D, 45-E 
9-A, 9-B, 44-G, 
9-C, 14-A-b. 45-D, 45- 
45-E . 
9-C, 45-D 
9-C, 12-A-a, 45- 
9-B, 45-D . 
9-B . . 
43-A, 43-B-b 
32-F-b, 34-A 
28-B . . 
24-A-a . . 
45-F-c . . 
19-F-a, 24-B-b, 26-B-c, 45-F-c 



Pace 

119, 126, 131. 133, 155, 158, 162, 

163, 173, 289, 291 
250 

124, 166, 186, 191, 313 

124, 166. 191, 250 

124, 145, 166, 191 

250 

126 

250 

250 

250 

124, 145, 146, 147, 166, 186, 

191 
250 
250 
327 
illus. 271 



136 

207 

270, 274, illus. 351 

274 

303, 332 

303 

264,309 

253 

253 

253 

140 

319 

319 

302, 322 

323 

311 

311 

162, 321, 328 

242 

323 

323 

301 

244 

244,266 



322, 323 
242, 265, 303 
313 
187 

129. 149, 155, 
293, 313 

150 



158. 173, 276, 



239 




232 




234 




266,309 




234 




133, 298 




114, 138 




114. 138. 145 




322. 323 




111. 112,316,320 


339 


113, 135. 322, 323, 


335, 339 


323 




\n. 322 




113, 123,322 




112,322 




112 




301, 302 




242, 260 




197 




180 




325 




157, 181. 191, 325 





Daedalacanthns 



Name 



395 



Dicentra 



Daedalacantkus nervosus 


. . 43-F-e . . 




307 


Daffodil (in variety) 


45-J . . 




331 


Long Trump)et 


. . 36-A. 3G-B. 




270, 271 


Medium Trumpet 


. . 36-A . . 




270 


Short -cupped White 


. . 36-B . . 




271 


Trumpet . . . 


. . 36-A . . 




270 


White .... 


. . 36-A . . 




270 


Dahlia (in variety) . 


45-1 . . 




330 


Garden. 


. . 45-1. . . 




330 


Daisy, African . 


. . 32-A . . 




240 


English. . . . 


. . 29-A, 29-F, 31 


B-<;, 3i-j,'3i-k-c : 


204, 208, 223, 233 


Mexican Shrub . 


. . 43-F-c . . 




307 


Orange . . . 


. . 32-H-a . . 




246 


Ox-eye .... 


. . 31-B-h, 38-C-a 


226. 280 


Painted . . . 


. . 31-B-g, 31-1, 45-1 


225. 232, 330 


Swan River . . 


. . 32-A, 32-E, 32-G-a-2 


240, 242, 244 


Dalibmda repens . 


. . . 15-C, 45-A-a, 45-J 


140, 319, 331 


Dandelion 


. . 30-A 


212 


Daphne (in variety). 


. . 39. 42-B-a . 




284, 297 


blagayana . 


. . 33-E-b . . 




253 


Caucasian . 


. . 45-F-a . . 




324 




. . 15-A. 19-A, 
45-F-b . 


29-A, ■ 33-E-b, "sy-A-a 


, 138, 154, 204, 253, 276, 325 


Deciduous . , 


. . 42-B-a . . 




297 


genkwa 


. . 45-F-a . . 




324 


Lilac-flowered. . 


. . 45-F-a . . 




324 




. . 45-F-a . . 




324 


Darnel .... 


. . 38-A . . 




279 


Datura stramonium 


. . 38-A . . 




279 


Dead Nettle . . , 


. . 28-B. 31-C-b 




197, 228 


Death Camas . . 


. . 38-A . . 




279 


Delonix regia 


. . 43-B-b . . 




302 


Delphinium (in variety] 


. . . 31-A, 31-B-e, 


31-b, bl-H, 31-i. 31-N 


, 221, 224, 229, 231, 232, 236, 




45-1 . . 




330 


ajacis .... 


. . 32-A, 32-C. 32- 


H-h .'.'.'.'.' . 


240, 241, 246 


belladonna . 


. . 31-F, 31-H. 




230, 231 


forniosum . 


. . 31-H . . 




231 


geyi .... 


. . 38-A . . 




279 


Urandiflorum album , 


. . 31-B-f . . 




225 


Dennstaedtia punctilobul 


3 . . 28-B, 29-D-a . 




197, 206 


Dentaria diphylla 


. . 45-J . . 




331 


Deodar 


43-B-a. 45-B-a 


, 45-D, 45-E, 45-k-a" 


301, 320, 322. 331, 339 




46-H-a . 






Depth for transplanting 






34,39 


Depth of planting bulbs 






67. Plate IX 


Design Bedding, Annua 


Is for ". 32-H '. '. 




245 


Desmodium, Siebold's 


. . 19-D, 45-F-c 




156, 326 


White-flowering . 


. . 19-D . . 




155 


Deutzia .... 


. . 17. 19-B, 19-G 


b. 42-A-a,' 44-G ! .' 


149, 155, 158,296,316, illus. 110 


crenata. Pride of Rocl 


ester . 23-B . . 




177 


Dwarf Pink 


. . 18-B. 19-E-b. 45-F-c 


151. 157. 325 


gTocilis 


. . 12-B, 13-A-a, 15-B, 18-B, 41, 45-F-a 


124. 128. 139. 151, 293, 324, 




46-C-a 


336 


kalmiaeflora . 


. . 45-B-b 


321 


Large- flowered 


. . 23-B 


177 




. . 13-A-a. 18-B, 45-F-c 


128, 151, 325 


Leraoine's . 


. . 13-A-a, 18-B, 45-F-c 


128, 151, 325 


longijolia . 


. . 45-B-b 


321 


Long- leaved . . 


. . 45-B-b . . 




321 


mvriatitha . 


. . 45-B-b . . 




321 


Pink- flowered Hybrid 


. . 45-B-b . . 




321 


purpurascens . 


. . 45-B-b . . 




321 


Purple-flowered . 


. . 45-B-b . . 




321 




. . 18-B, 19-E-b. ' 


5-F-c". '.'.'.'. 


151, 157. 325 


scabra .... 


. . 14-B, 45-F-c 




135. 325 


Single White . . 


. . 14-B, 45-F-c 




135, 325 


Slender. . . . 


. . 12-B. 13-A-a, 


15-'B. IS-B, 41, ■45-F-a 


124, 128, 139, 151, 293, 324, 




46-C-a . 




336 


White- flowered Hybr 


d . . 45-B-b . . 




321 


Dewberry, European 


. . 29-E-a . . 




207 


Dianthus (in variety) 


. . 31-A . . 




221 


barbatus 


. . 31-B-f. 31-B-g 
32-H-a 


"31-H, '31-1. 31-J, 3i-N 


225, 231, 232, 233, 236, 245 


caryophyllus . . 


. . 43-1. . . 




309 


ckinensis 


. . 32-A. 38-C-a 




240.280 


dettoides 


. . 15-C, 24-E. 29 


-B,' 29-F, '29-G, Sl-B-c 


140. 184, 204, 208, 209, 223i 




31-D . . 




229 . 


heddewigi . 


. . 29-1. 32-A . 




210, 240 


latifoliits atrococcineus 


. . 31-H . . 




231 


Napoleon III . . 


. . 31-H . . 




231 


plumarius _ . . 
Dicentra eximia , 


. . 15-C, 29-B. 31-B-b. 31-B-c, 37-A-c. 


140. 204. 223. 276 


. . 15-C. 31-B-g 


140, 225 


speclabilis . 


. . 31-B-c, 31-F, 4 


0-A 


223. 230. 289 



Dictamnus 



Name 

Dictamnus fraxinella 

fraxineHa alba . . 
DterviUa (in variety) 

floribunda 

ftorida 

hybrid a 

hybrida luteo-morginata 

Eta Rathfce 

trifida 

Digitalis (in variety) . 

gloxiniaeftora , 

Rrandi^OTO .... 

purpurea .... 

Purpurea rosea 
Dirrwrphotheca aurantiaca 
Diospyros kaki . 

virginiana .... 
Dirca palustris . 
Diseases of Plants . 
Dividing Perennials. 
Dodecatheon media . 
Dogwood (in variety) . 

Alternate-leaved . 
Flowering .... 



Green-stemmed 

Grey 

Himalayan 

Japanese . 

Oregon 

Red-flowering 

Red -twigged 

Siberian 

Silky . . . 

Sq uare- twigged 
Dolichos iablab 
Doronicum . 

excelsum 

plantagineum 

plantagitieum excelsum 
Draba azoides 
Dracaena indivisa 
Dracena (in variety) 
Dragon Head, False 
Drainage 

For lawns , 

Tree pits . 
Dropwort .... 
Drought resisting plants 
Duchesnea indica 
Duranta repens . 
Dusty Feverfew 
Dusty Miller. 

Plumose-leaved 
Dutchman's Pipe 

Dwarf 
Dyer's Greenweed . 



396 



Edgings 



19-1, 



17 . 
13-A-c 

13-A-c. I9-E-b, 
13-A-b. 19-C, 
14-B, 27 . 
13-A-b . . 
13-B-a, 18-B, 24-C 
31-1 . . 
31-N . . 
31-B-h . . 
31-C-a. 31-J 
31-B-g . . 
32-H-a . . 
45-G . . 
20-A, 45-G. 45- 
13-B-b, 26-B-c, 
39 



A-a, 45-F-( 



31-K . 
15-C . 
11-B, 13-A-b. 17. 

24-C-b. 39. 42-A-a 
19- B. 20-B. 27, 28-A . 
13-B-c. 14-A-a, 19-a, 20-B, 2 

24-B-a, 27. 28-A, 40-B, 40-C-b, 

44-G, 45-G. 45-H-a 

21 

16-B-b, 19-C. 20-B. 21. 46-C-: 

45-H-b 

14-A-a. 44-G 



21 . . . 
19-C. 20-B. 21 

26-B-c . . 

45-F-c . . 

32-F-b . . 

31-M-b. . 

31-B-d . . 

31-A . . 

40-A . . 

35-A-a. 35-A-b, 35-B-c 
35-A-a, 35-A-b, 35-B-c 
31-B-g, 31-E, 31-G. 31-1 



31-B-f . . 
24-E . . 
45-A-b . . 
43-D. 43-F-e 
32-G-b-l . 
32-G-b-l. 35-B-c 
32-G-b-l 
; 34-A. 34-C, 34-1 
43-C-a . 
19-F-b. 26-B<. 



Page 

225.277 
225. 
149 
129 
129, 157. 177 

129. 155. 159, 296, 336 
135. 193 

129 

130. 151. 182, 193 
232 

236 

225 

227, 233 

225 

246 

327 

162, 327. 328 

131. 191, 296, 325 
282 

88, 233 

140 

120, 129. 149, 158. 165. 182, 

284. 296 
155. 162. 193. 196 
131. 133. 154. 162. 173. 181. 

193. 196, 289, 291. 301. 316, 

327, 328, illus. 190 
170 

145. 155, 162, 170, 336 
329 

133. 316 
337, 338 
157 
169 

155, 162, 169, 177, 187 
191 
325 
242 
235 
223 
221 
289 

140, 184 
264, 266 
264, 266 
225, 230, 231, 232 

54 

43 

225 

183 

319 

304, 307 

244 

244.266 

244 

260. 261 

302 

158, 191, 207. 326 



Ebony. Mountain 

Pink-flowering Mountain 

Purple Mountain 

White Mountain 

Yellow Mountain, 
Echeveria atropurpurea 

Juleens . . 

Klauca . . 

Glaucous . 

Purple-leaved 

Red-margined 

secunda 

Smooth-stemmed 
Echinacea purpurea 
Echinocystis tobata 
Echinops (in variety) 

riho 
Edgings for walks 



43-B-b . 

43-F-b , 

43-F-e 

43-F-a 

43-F-c 

32-G-a 

32-G-a 

32-G-a 

32-G-a 

32-G-a-: 

32-G-a-: 

32-G-a-: 

32-G-a-; 

31-C-a . 

32-F-b , 

45-1 

24-E. 31-B-e 

12-B . . 



302 

306 

307 

306 

306 

243 

243 

243 

243 

243 

243 

243 

243 

227 

242 

330 

184.224 

124 



Elder 



397 



Evergreens 



Elder (in variety) . . . 


20-D-a. 30-A . . . 










166, 212 




American 


13-B-c, 17, 19-C. 19-G- 
26-A-c, 42-A-a, 46-E 


i, 2 


■b-B, 23-B 


131, 149. 156, 159, 163, 
190, 297, 338 


177, 


Bon 


10-C, 12-C, 22-A, 23-A, 


39, 


44-Ca 




117, 125, 173, 177, 284, 314 


Dwarf 


45-F-a 








324 




Golden 


14-B 










135 




Marsh 


38-C-a 










281 




Red-berried .... 


13-B-c, 19-B, 19-G-b, 20 


^B 








131, 155. 159, 163 




Southern Dwarf . . . 


45-F-a 










324 




Yellow 


43-F-c 










307 




Yellow-flowering . . . 


43-F-c 










307 




Eleagnus (in variety) 


21 










170 




angustijolia .... 


12-D, 12-E-b, 19-F-a, 
42-A-a, 46-C-b . . 


24 


-D, 


2 


5-A 


. 125, 126, 157. 183. 186, 
337 


296. 


argentea 


25-B 










187 




longipes 


19-F-a, 20-B, 45-F-c . 










157, 162, 325 




macTOphylla .... 


45-F-b 










325 




muUifloja 


45-G 










327 




muUiflora TOtundifolia 


22-C-b-l .... 










174 




parviflora 


45-F-c 










325 




pungens 


16-C. 43-D, 43-F-a, 45-F 


-d 








146, 304, 306, 326 




pungens tnaculata . 


45-G 










327 




pungens variegata . 


45-F-d 










326 




umbellata 


45-F-c 










325 




Elephant's Ear ... . 


35-A-c, 35-B-c. . . 










265, 266 




Elm (in variety) .... 


24-D, 39 .... 










183, 284 




American 


10-A, 22-A, 24-A-a, 25-A 
44-E-a, 46-D . . 


40 


-B. 


43- 


B-a 


117, 173, 180, 186, 290, 
315, 337 


301, 










Camperdown Weeping . 


14-A-a, 45-H-a . . 










134, 329 




Columnar 


16-D-b-l .... 










147 




English 


10-B. 11-A, 16-D-a . 










117, 119, 147 




Fastigiate 

Scotch 


14-A-b 










135 




10-A 










117 




Wheatley's Cornish . . 


14-A-a, 14-A-b, 16-D-b-l 










134, 135, 147 




Winged 


45-C 










322 




Elsholtzia (in variety) . . 


19-D, 19-H . . . 










156, 159 




cristata 


45-F-a 










324 




Dwarf 


45-F-a 










324 




stauntoni 


19-D, 19-H . . . 










156, 159 




Emilia flammea .... 


32-A, 32-C. . . . 










240, 241 




EmpelTum atropurpureum . 


33-E-b 










253 




earnest 


33-E-b 










252 




nigrum 


33-E-b 










253 




Empress Tree .... 


19-H, 37-A-b, 42-C, 45-H 


-a 








159, 276, 298, 328 




Enkianthus 


46-C-a 










336 




perulatus 


46-C-a 










336 




Entrances, Plantings for . 


18 










150 




Epigaea repens .... 
Epimedium macranthum 


29-A, 30-A, 33-E-b 37-A 




lO-l 






204 212 253 277 290 




15-C 










140' 




Equisctum hyemalis . 


30-A 










212 




Eranihis hyemalis . 


36-B 










270 




Erica 


29-A 










204 




mediterranea , , , . 


46-C-a 










336 




vagans 


15-A 










138 




Ericaceous plants . . . 


40-B 










289 




Erigeron speciosus . 


24-E 










184 




Eriobolrya japonica . 
Emajagua. Yellow . 


43-D 










304 




43-F-c 










307 




Eryngium amethystinum 


24-E, 31-B-e, 45-1 . 










184, 224, 330 




Erysimum pulchellum . 


15-C 










140 




Erythionium (in variety) . 


29-H 

36-B, 45-J . . . 










209 
271, 331 




EschschoUzia californica . 


32-A, 32-C, 32-H-a . 










240. 241, 246 




Eucalyptus cilriodora 


43-J-a 










310 




Eitcharidiurn grandiflorum . 


32-A 










240 




Large-flowered . . . . 


32-A 










240 




Eugenia janibos 


43-D 










304 




uniflora 


43-D. 43-E-a . . . 










304,305 




Eupatorium (in variety) . . 


31-E, 45-1 .... 










230. 330 




ageratoides 


31-B-i, 31-H, 31-L-c . 










226, 232, 235 




coelestinum 


31-B-i, 31-1, 31-L-c . 










226, 232, 235 




purpureum 


31-C-a 










227 




sessilifolium 


38-C-a 










280 




verbenaefolium 


24-A-a 










180 




Euphorbia corollata . . . . 


15-C 










140 




pulcherrima 


43-F-d 










307 




epithymoides 


24-E 

9 










184 
109 




Evergreens 

Adapted to shade in wooded 












areas 


9-D 










113 




Atmospheric conditions . 












110 




Books on 












343 




Broad-leaved 


33-E '.'.'.'.'.'. 










252 





Evergreens 



Name 

Evergreens, Climate 

Lists of 

Low-growing, formal types 

Mass planting 

Most hardy for general use , 

Not generally used in mid 
west 

Planting seasons . . 

Protection 

Site 

Soil 

Used most in mid-west 
Evonymus (in variety) . 

alatus 

americanus. 

atTopuTpureus . 

bungeanus .... 

bungeanus semipersistens 

Climbing 



398 

Group 



Fertilizers 



euTOpaeus 

Evergreen 

japonicus 

obovatus 

Tadicatis 



radicans acutus ^ . 

Tadicans carriers . 

radicans minima . 

tadicans vegetus 

yedoensis .... 
ExochoTda (in variety) , 

grandiJJora 
Exposed sites. Plants for 



9-A 
9-C 



9-B 

20-D-b, 39, 42-A-a 

13-A-b. 14-B. 16-B-b, 20-B, 2 

n-B. 13-B-b, 14-B, 20-B 

13-B<. 20-A, 20-B. 22-C-a 

13-A-c, 45-G 

22-C-b-l . 

28-B, 29-A, 33-E-b, 34-B, 

45-A-a. 46-B-b, 46-G 
13-A-c. 14-B, 20-B, 22-C-i 
16-C. 43-E-b . . . 
16-C, 43-E-b . . . 
15-B, 18-B, 28-B, 29-C 
28-B, 29-A, 33-E-b, 34-B 

45-A-a, 46-B-b, 46-G 
28-B, 29-A, 29-C. 29-E<, 
18-A . . 
29-F . . 
18-A, 29-A. 
13-A-b . . 
44-G . . 
13-A-c. 14-B, 19-B, 45-H-: 
25-A, 25-B, 25-C , 



114 

illus. 63, 78 

111 

113 

illus, 14 

110, illus. 62 

110 

110 

112 

166, 284, 296 

129, 135, 145, 162, 173, 338 

120, 131, 135, 163 

131, 162, 163, 174 

129, 327 

174 

197. 204, 253. 260. 261, 303. 

319, 336, 338 
129, 135, 163. 174 
146, 305 
146, 305 

139, 151, 197, 205 
197. 204, 253, 260. 261, 303, 

319, 336. 338 
197, 204, 205, 207 
151 
208 

151,204 
129 
316 

129. 135. 155, 329 
186. 187 



Fagus 

americana 
sylvatica 



14-A-a. 24-C-a, 30-A 

12-C, 21, 22-C-a, 30-B, 40-C-a, 45-H-a. 
12-A-a, 12-A-b. 12-C, 12-D, 16-D-a, 

40-B, 40-C-b, 44-G 

14-A-a 



svlvatica heterophytla . 
Fast-growing types for produc- 
ing screen effects ... 23 

Shrubs 23-B 

Trees 23-A 

Feather Fleece, Mountain . . 31-E 

Ferns (For ground cover) 

Dry. shady places . . . 29-D-a 

Moist, shady places . . . 29-D-b 

Ferns (in variety) .... 29-H, 31-C-a, 31-M-b, 35-A-b, 35-A<, 
35-B-c, 43-G 

Boston 35-A-c 

Broad Beech 29-D-b 

Christmas 28-B. 29-D-a, 29-B-b, 33-E-b . . . 

Cinnamon 24-A-a, 29-D-b 

Clayton's 28-B, 29-D-a 

Dwarf 29-D-b 

Goldie's Wood .... 29-D-b 

Hay-scented 28-B. 29-D-a 

Lady 29-D-b 

Maidenhair 28-B, 29-D-b, 45-J 

Margined 28-B, 29-D-a, 29-D-b, 31-C-b . . . 

Native Sl-M-b 

Neat 29-D-a 

Ostrich 28-B, 29-D-b 

Royal 24-A-a. 29-D-b 

Sensitive 28-B, 29-D-b 

Sweet 13-B-a, 24-B-b, 26-A-c, 29-E-a, 37-B-a, 

40-C-a, 44-B-a. 45-F-a 

Virginia Chain .... 29-D-b 

Walking 29-D-a, 29-F 

Fertilizers 

Annuals 

Aquatic plants 

Bulbs 

Forcing flowering plants 

Lawns — new 

Lawns — topdressing 

Newly transplanted stock 

Perennials 

Preparation of planting areas 

Rhododendrons 

Rose garden beds 



133, 182, 212 

125, 170, 174, 212. 290, 328 

123, 124, 125, 146, 289, 291, 

316 
133 

176 
176 
176 
230 
205 
206 
206 
209, 227, 235, 264, 265, 266, 

308 
265 
206 

197, 206, 252 
180.206 
197,206 
206 
206 

197,206 
206 

197, 206, 331 
197, 206, 228 
235 
206 

197,206 
180, 206 
197, 206 
130. 181. 190, 206, 277, 290, 

313, 323 
206 
206,208 

91 



Fertilizers 



Name 

Fertilizers, Shrubs 

Trees — established plants 

Trees — newly planted 

Vines .... 

Wild garden plants 
Fescue Grass, Blue . 
Festuca glauca 
Fetterbush . 

Japanese . 

Mountain . , . 

Ficus aurea . 

nitida .... 

Pumila .... 

repens .... 

Species .... 

otlJosa .... 

Fig, Barberry 

Climbing . 

Creeping . 

Large-leaved Creeping 

Fig Tree . . . 

Filbert . . . 

Filipendula camtsckatica 

hexapetala . 

hexapetala flore plena . 

Purpurea 

Tuina .... 
Fir (in variety) . 
Balsam. 
Douglas 
Fraser's Balsam 
Globe White . 
Nikko ... 
Nordman*8. . 
Red . . . , 
Silver ... 
Veitch's Silver 
White . . . , 
Flag, Blue Dwarf 
Dwarf .... 
Yellow Water 
Flame Flower 
Flax, Perennial . 
Fleabane, Oregon 
Flora's Paint-brush 
Florida ... 

Flowering shrubs for mi 
and southern Florida 
Blue and purple 
Pink . . . 
Red ... . 
White . . . 
Yellow . . . 
Fruiting effect, 

characteristics 
Ground cover plants . 
Hedges. 

Middle and ! 

Florida . . 
Northern Florida 
Herbaceous plants 
Lawns for 
Seashore planting. 
Shrubs . 
Trees ... 
Vines ... 
Shrubs for shade cone 
Street and specimen ] 
Northern list 
Southern list 
Vines 

Lattice and wire fences 
Walls . . 
Windbreaks . 
Floss Flower 

Dwarf Blue . 

Dwarf White . 

Flower Gardens . 



399 

Group 



29-A, 29-B. 
29-A, 29-B. 
29-H, 40-B 
12-B, 45-F-b 
15-A. 18-A 22 
45-F-b, 46-C-a. 
43-J-a . 
43-B-b . 
45-L . 
43-C-b . 
43-B-b . 
43-C-b . 
45-A-b . 
45-L . 
43-C-b . 
43-C-b . 
43-B-b . 
16-D-a, 24-C-b 
31-E . . 
31-C-a, 45-1 
31-B-f . . 
13-B-a, 31-L-c 
31-C-a . . 
14-A-a. 39, 42- 
9-C. 24-C-a, 28 
9-A. 9-B, 9-D, 
9-C 
9-E 

9-A, 9-B, 14-A 
9-C 

46-H-a . 
46-H-a . 
9-A. 9-B, 24-C 
9-A, 9-B, 11-A, 
31-B-a, 31-C-a 
29-F . . 
31-B-d, 31-C- 
43-C-a, 43-C-b, 
15-C, 31-B-a 
24-E . . 
32-A, 32-C. 
43 . . . 

43-F . . 

43-F-e . . 

43-F-b . . 

43-F-d . . 

43-F-a . . 

43-F-c . . 



43-D . 
43-G . 
43-E . 

43-E-a . 
43-E-b. 
43-1. . 

43-J '. 
43-J-b . 
43-J-a . 
. 43-J-c . 
43-H . 
43-B . 
43-B-a . 
43-B-b . 
43-C . 
43-C-a . 
43-C-b, 
43-A . 
32-A, 32-B, 32-E, 

35-A-c, 43-1 
32-G-a-2 . 
32-G-a-2 . 



Flower Gardens 



Page 



45 

84 

217 

204 

204 

209, 289 

124, 325 

138, 151, 174, 181, 253, 325, 

337,340 
310 
302 
332 
303 
302 
303 
320 

303, illus. 367 
303 

302 

146, 182 

230 

227, 330 

225 

130, 235. 

227 

133, 284, 298 

113, 182. 196,337 

112, 113, 316. 339 

113 

114 

HI, 112, 134, 147, 182 

113 

339 

339 

111, 112, 182 

111.112,119, 134,316.339 

222, 227 

208 

224, 227, 234, 

303,333 

140,222 

184 

240,241 

299 

305 
307 
306 
307 
305 
306 

303 

307 

304, illus. 374 



59, illus. 41 

310 

310 

310 

311 

308 

301 

301 

301 

302 

302 

303. illus. 367 

300 

240, 241, 242, 244, 264, 265, 

309 
244 
244 
214, 237, illus. 286 



Flowering Effects 



Name 

Flowering Effects — Trees and 

Shrubs 

Blue flowers .... 
Continuous bloom from 

twelve shrubs . 
Red and pink flowers. . 
Early flowering. 
L.ate spring and summer 
flowering .... 
Spring, after leaves appear 
Spring, before leaves appear 
Summer. Early 
Summer, Late, and early 

autumn . 

White flowers 

Early flowering 

Late spring and summer 

flowering . 

Yellow flowers 

Early flowering 

Late spring and summer 

flowering . 

Flowering plants. Fertilizers for 

Foam-flower .... 

Fontanesia fortunei 

Fortune's .... 
Forcing, Bulbs for , 
ShnjDS for ... 
Twigs for . 
Forestry, Books on . 
Forget-me-not 

Formal effects with plants 
Allees, Trees and Shrubs 
Not pleached 
Deciduous 
Evergreen 
Pleached 
Border Planting 
Topiary work and 
shearing . 
Deciduous . 
Evergreen , 
Tub planting . 
Formal gardens, Perennial 

be avoided . 
FoTsythia (in variety) 
intermedia . 
intermedia spectabilis 
susfiensa 

suspensa fortunei . 
virtdissima 
Fothergilla ^ardent . 

Parviflora . 
Fountain Plant . 
Foxglove (in variety) 
Pink .... 
Yellow .... 
FraRaria .... 
Fragrant plants 
Fragrant flowers. 
Perennials . 
Shrubs . 
Trees 
Fragrant leaves 
Perennials . 
Shrubs and trees 
Frangipani Tree. 
Fraxtnus (in variety) 



400 
Group 



Fruit 



r acuminata 

biltnioreana 

cOTOiiniana. 

pennsylvanica . 
Freesia .... 

refracta alba 
Fringe Tree. Chinese 
Frititlaria meleagris . 
Frost-weed . 
Fruit Trees . . . 
Fruit, Vines valuable for 



I9-I . 
19-E . 
19-E-a . 

19-E-b . 
19-B . 
19-A . 
19-C . 

19-D . 
19<I . 
19-G-a . 

19-G-b . 
19-F 
19-F-a . 



29-F . 
22.C-b-l 
22<;-b-l 
36-E . 



16 . . 
16-D . 
16-D-b 
16-D-b-l 
16-D-b-2 
16-D-a . 
16-A . 

16-B . 
16-B-b . 
16-B-a . 
16.C . 

31-E 
lis. 19-A. 19 
12-D, 13-A< 
13-A-b . . 
17, 19-1, 45-F-c 
13-A-c, 46-C-a 
12-D, 13-A-c, 21 
45-F-a . 
45-F-a . 
43-1. . 
31-C-a, 31- 
31-B-g . 
31-B-S . 
45-J . 

37-A '. 
37-A< . 
37-A-a . 
37-A-b . 
37-B . 
37-B-b . 
37-B-a . 
43-J-a . 
10- B, 11 -A 
22-B, 24-A 

46-D. 
45-H-a . 
45-C . 
45-C . 
45-H-a . 
36-E-a . 
36-E-a . 
14-B . 
36-B, 45-J 
24-E, 30-b 
20-A . 
34-D . 



31-J 



159 
156 
157 



154. illus. 214 
154. lllus. 214 
155 

156 
158 
158 

158 
157 
157 

158 

91 

208 

174 

174 

273 

293 

293 

344 

204, 222, 228, 229, 235, 241 

141, illus. 159, 174 

146 

147 

147 

147 

146, iUus. 158, 175 

144 

145 
145 
145 
146 

229 

120, I.S4, 157. 293, 296, 316 

125, 130 

129 

149 159,325 

130. 336 

125. 130, 170, 174 

324 

324 

310 

227, 232. 233, 236 

225 

225 

331 

275 

275 

276 

275 

276 

277 

277 

277 

310 

117. 119 

173, 180. 186, 314. 315. 337 

328 

321 

321 

328 

274 

274 

135 

271, 331 

184, 212 

162 

261 



Fruiting Plants 



401 



Glory -of-the-Snow 



Fruiting Plants .... 


20 


160 


Attractive to birds . . 


20-D 


164 


In summer .... 


20-D-a 


165 


In winter .... 


20-D-b 


166 


List of birds 


20-D< 


1<^ 


Colour effects of . . . 


20-B 


162, illus. 230 


Fruit which attracts bird 


s 




from other fruits 


20-E 


167 


Form or size .... 


20-A 


161 


Undesirable because of fruit 


s 20-F 


167 


Winter months . . . 


20-C 


163 


Fruits. Trained .... 


16-C 


146 


F«c/i5ia (in variety). 


35-A-c, 35-B-b 


265, 266 


piocumbens .... 


35-B-a 


265 


Trailing 


35-A-c. 35-B-a 


265 


Fimkia (in variety) . . . 


29-A, 31-M-a, 37-A-c, 43-1, 45-1 . 


204, 235. 276, 309, 330 


caniilea 


31-B-e 


224 


foTiunei 


31-B-e 


224 


lancifolia 


31-B-e 


224 


sieboldiana .... 


31-B-e 


224 


subcordata grandifiora 


31-b-f 


225 


Gaillmdia (in variety) . . 


45-1 


330 


arislata 


29-G, 31-B-h, 31-D, 31-F, 31-1 . . 


209, 226, 229, 230, 232 


^landirloTa .... 


43-1 


309 


pule lie Ua picta 


32-A. 32-H-a 


240. 246 


Galanthus (in variety) . 


36-E-a 


274 


elwesi 


36-A 


270 


nivalis 


45-J 


331 


Galax (in variety) . . . 


29-H, 33-E-b, 45-J 


209. 253. 331 


aphylla 


29-H, 33-E-b, 45-J 


209. 253, 331 


Galium boreale .... 


28-B 


197 


Game cover plants . 


30 


211 


Foliage, buds and blossom 






(spring cover) . . . 


30-A 


212 


Nuts or seeds (autumn cover 


30-B 


212 


Garden architecture. Books 01 




344 


Gardens, Books on . . . 




344 


Gardenia (in variety) . . 


45-H-b" .'.'.'...'.'. 


329 


fiorida 


43-E-a, 43-F-a, 45-F-b. 45-K-b . . 


305. 306, 325, 332 


jasminoides .... 


45-B-a, 45-F-d 


320, 326 


jasmitwides fojluniana . 


45-F-d 


326 


jasminoides veilchi 


45-F-d 


326 


Garland Flower .... 


15-A, 19-A. 29-A, 33-E-b, 37-A-a 
45-F-b 


138. 154. 204. 253, 276, 325 


White 


33-E-b 


253 


Gas Plant 


31-B-f. 31-B-g. 37-A-c. 37-B-b . . 


225. 277 


GauUheria ptocumbens . 


15-A. 20-D-a, 24-A-a, 29-B. 29-C 

33-E-b 

46-B-b, 46-E 


138. 165. 180, 204, 205, 253 


shallon 


336, 337 


Gelsemium sempervirens . 


43-C-a, 43-G, 45-L 


303, 308, 332 


sempervirens flme plena . 


45-L 


332 


Genista tinctoria .... 


19-F-b, 26-B-c. 29-E-a, 45-F-c . . 


158, 191, 207, 326 


Gentiana andrewsi 


31-L-c 


235 


Geranium (in variety) . . 


32-G-b-2. 35-A-a, 35-B-b . . . 


244, 264, 266 


Bronze-leaved 


32-G-b-l 


244 


Cardinal 


35-A-a 


264 


Ivy-leaved .... 


35-A-a, 35-A-b 


264. 265 


maculatutn .... 


28-B 


197 


Madame Salleroi . 


32-G-a-l 


243 


Salmon Double . . . 


35-A-a 


264 


sanguineum .... 


15-C, 31-B-c 


140,223 


Scarlet 


35-A-a 


264 


Strawberry .... 


35-B-a 


265 


Geum , 


30-B 


212 




31-B-c, 31-D 


223,229 


heldreicfti 


31-B-d 


223 


Ginger. Wild .... 


29-H 


209 


Ginkgo bitoba 


10-B, 11-A, 22-C-a, 45-C, 45-H-a . 


117, 119, 174,321,328 


Gladiolus (in variety) . . 


31-G. 36-E-a, 45-1 


231, 274, 330 


Glaucium fiavum .... 


24-E 


184 


luteutn 


31-J 


233 


Cledilsia delavayi 


45-C 


321 


japonica 


45-C, 45-H-a 


321, 328 


sinensis 


45-C, 45-H-a 


321, 328 


triacanthos . . . , 


10-C, 12-A-b, 20-A 20-F, 24-D, 26-B-a 


117. 124, 162, 167, 183, 191, 




37-A-b, 45-H-a 


276, 328 


Gliricidia maculala . 


43-J-a 


310 


Globe-flower 


13-A-a, 19-F-b, 21, 31-B-d. 40-A, 40-B 


128, 158, 170, 224, 289, 293, 




41, 42-A-a, 44-G, 45-F-c . . . 


296, 317, 326 


Globe Thistle .... 


24-E, 31-B-e, 45-1 


184, 224. 330 


Glory-of-the-Snow . . . 


36-A, 36-E-a 


270, 274 



Gloxinea 



402 



Hardhack 



Gloxinea, Hardy. 






45-1 . . . . . . . . 






330 


Goat's Beard (in variety) . 


31-B-f, 31-C-a, 31-L-c .... 


224. 227, 234 


False 


30-A 


212 


Siberian 






31-E 


230 


Gold-flower . . 






13-A-a, 15-B, 29-H, 31-B-h, 45-F-a 


128, 139. 209, 22(5, 324 


Golden Bell (in vari 


ety 




11-B, 19-A, 19-F-a, 41, 42-A-a, 44-G 


120, 154, 157, 293, 296. 316 


Dark Green . 






12-D, 13-A-c, 21, 22-C-a, 22-C-b-l . 


125, 1.30, 170, 174 


Drooping . . 






17, 19-1, 45-F-c 




149, 159, 325 


Fortune's . 






13-A-c, 46-C-a .... 






130, 336 


Hybrid . . 
Golden Chain 






12-D. 13-A-b, 13-A-c . . 






125, 129, 130 






17, 19-F-b, 42-B-a . . . 






149, 158, 297 


Golden Dewdrop 






43-D. 43-F-e 






304, 307 


Golden Feather . 






32-G-b-l 






244 


Golden Glow. 






31-E 






230 


Goldenrod (in variet 


y) 




31-B-l, 31-C-a, 31-E. 38-C-a, 45 


-J 




227. 228, 230. 281 


Blue-stemmed . 






28-B 






198 


Sharp-leaved . 






28-B 






198 


Showy . . . 






28-B 






198 


Swamp. 
Golden Seal . . 






24-A-a 






180 






28-B 






197 


Golden Tuft . . 






15-C, 29-A, 31-B-d, 45-1 






139. 203, 223, 329 


Gomphrena globosa 






32-A 






240 


Goodyera pubesctns 






29-F. 29-H 






208.209 


Gooseberry, Wild 






44-A-a. 44-B-a .... 






313 


Gordonia lasianthus 






43-B-a, 43-B-b, 43-E-a . . 






301, 302, 305 


Gorse . . . 






46-A-b 






335 


Goutweed . 






29-C 






205 


Grape (in variety) 






20-D-a. 24-B-c, 25-C . . 






166, 182, 187 


Evergreen . 






43-C-a 






303 


Grapefruit . . 






43-D 






304 


Grape Hyacinth 






36-A 






270 


Grass seed mixtures 












55 


Grasses . 






32-A !!.■.■;; ; 






240 


Greenbrier . 






30-A, 43-C-a 






212. 303 


Prickly . . 






22-C-b-2 






175 


Grevillea robusta . 






43-A, 43-B-b 






301. 302 


Ground cover . 






29 






199. illus. 270 


Annuals used for 






32-B 






240 


Crevices betweer 


s 


teppin 










stones, etc. . 






29-F 






208 


Dry locations . 






29-B 






204 


Embankments a 


nd 


rockj 










slopes . . 






29-E 






206 


Perennials . 






29-E-b 






207 


Shrubs . 






29-E-a 






206 


Vines . . 






29-E-c 






207 


Ferns . . . 






29-D 






205 


Dry, shady places 




29-D-a 






206 


Moist, shady places . 


29-D-b 






206 


Moist locations . 


29-A 






203 


Open, sunny exposures . 
Rhododendrons and Azaleas 


29-G 






208 


29-H 






209 


Roses 


29-1 






210 


Shady locations . 




29-C 






205 


Ground Ivy . 




29-A, 29-F, 35-A-a, 35-A<, 35-1 


5-a 




204. 208, 264, 265 


Groundsel . . . 




31-C-a, 31-L-c 






227, 235 


Groundsel Bush , , 




19-D, 26-A-c, 43-D, 45-F-c . 






156, 190. 304, 325 


Guinea-hen Flower . 




36-B, 45-J 






271, 331 


Gumi 




45-G 






327 


Round-leaved 




22-C-b-l 






174 


Gymnocladus dioica . 




20-A. 45-H-a 






162, 328 


Grnrrium. . . . 




43-1 






309 


Cypsophila (in variety) 




45-1 






330 


eltgans .... 




32-A, 32-C, 32-D .... 






240, 241 


muralis. 




32-C 






241 


paniculata , 




31-B-f, 31-1. 43-1 .... 






225. 232, 309 


Habenaria ciliaris .... 45-J 331 


Hackberry 

Chinese 


39 


284 


45-H-a 


327 


Southern ..... 


45-C 


321 


Halesia (in variety) . . 


42-B-a 


297 


Carolina 


14-B, 19-B, 19-G-a, 24-C-b, 45-H-a 


135, 155, 158, 182. 328 


telraptera 


44-G 


316 


H altTnodtndTOn halodcndfon 


24-D, 45-F-c 


183, 326 


Hamelia erecta .... 


43-D, 43-F-d, 43-H 


304. .307, 308 


sphaerocarpa .... 


43-F-c, 43-H 


307, 308 


Hamamelis japonica. 


19-A. 19-F-a 


154. 158 


vijginiana 


13-B-c, 19.D, 22-C-a, 24-B-b. 24-C-b 


131. 156. 174. 181, 182, 193 




27, 28-A. 30-B. 42-A-a . . . 


196, 212, 296 


Hanging Baskets . . . 


35-B 


265 


Hardback (in variet 


y) 




19-E-b. 25-B, 29-E-a, 42-A-a, 4^ 


IB 


a 


157. 187, 207, 297. 314 



Harebell 


403 


Hemlock 


Name 


Group 


Pace 




Harebell, Carpathian . . 


l&C, 29-A, 31-B-e. 31-B-f, 31-D . 


139. 204, 224, 229 




Peach-leaved .... 


31-B-e. 31-B-f 


224 




Haw, Vails 


45-G 


327 




Hawthorn, Double Red-flower 








Double White-flowering . 


33-C 


. 250 




. 33-C 


. 250 




English 


12-E-e 


126 




Indian 


43-E-a. 45-F-d 


305. 326 




Pink-flowering . . . 


33-C 


250 




Single Pink .... 


33-C 


250 




Hazel 


39 


284 




Flowering 


37-A-a 


276 




Japanese Flowering . 


19-F-a, 45-F-a 


157. 323 




Purple-leaved . . . 


14-B. 45-F-c, 45-H-b .... 


135, 325, 329 




Hazelnut (in variety) . . 


13-B-c, 30-A, 30-B, 41 .... 


131, 212, 293 




Heath (in variety) . . . 


29-A 


204 




Cornish 


15-A 


138 




Mountain 


29-H 


209 




Heather. Pink .... 


46-C-a 


336 




Scotch 


26-B-c, 40-C-b, 45-F-b. 46-C-a . . 


191, 291, 324, 336 




Southern 


45-A-b 


319 




White-flowered . . . 


45-F-b 


324 




Heavy Effects .... 


16 


141 




Hedera canariensis . 


45-L 


333 




helix 


28-B, 34-B, 35-A-a, 35-B-a, 40-B 


, 197, 260, 264, 265. 289, 


303, 




43-C-b, 43-G, 45-A-a. 45-L, 46-B-b 


308, 319, 333. 336, 338 






46-G 






helix conglomejata . 


15-C 


140 




helix lobala 


29-C 


205 




Hedges 


12 


121 




Barriers, Hedges for . 


12-A 


123 




Holding leaves during win 








ter 


12-A-a 


123, illus. 345 




Not holding leaves durin 


I 






winter 


12-A-b 


124 




Bleak exposures . 


12-E 


126 




Close shearing . . . 


12-E-b 


126 




Fruiting hedges 

Late foliage .... 


12-E-d 


126 




12-E-a 


126 




Shady places 


12-E-e 


126 




Unsheared hedges . 


12-E-c 


126 




Edgings for walks and gardei 








borders .... 


12-B 


124, Ulus. 95. 110, 159 




Privacy 


12-D 


125 




Windbreaks and for solic 








screens .... 


12-C 


125 




Hedvsarum coronarium . 


31-J 


233 




Heeling-in plants . . . 




34. 36, iUus. 34 




Helenium (in variety) . . 


31-K-c,'45-i .' ." .' ." ." .' .' 


233, 330 




autumnale 


31-B-l 


227 




autumnale superbum . 


31-E, 31-L-c 


230. 235 




Riverton Beauty . 


31-B-l, 31-H 


227.231 




Helianthemum (in variety) 


24-E, 45-1 


184,330 




canadense 


30-B 


212 




chamaecistus .... 


28-B, 33-E-b 


197, 253 




croceum 


15-C. 29-B, 31-B-d. 31-K-a . . . 


140, 204, 223. 233 




Helianthus (in variety) . . 


31-B-h, 31-C-a, 31-E- 31-1, 31-K-2 


, 226, 227, 230, 232, 233, 235 




31-M-b. 45-1 






angustifolius .... 


38-C-a 


280 




annuus 


32-A 


240 




Helichrysum bractealum. . 


32-A 


240 




Heliopsis 


31-B-h 


226 




Heliotrope 

Blue Garden .... 


32-A, 32-E. 35-A-a, 35-A-b . . . 


240, 242, 264, 265 




32-G-b-2 


244 




Garden 


32-H-b 


246 




Heliolropium peruvianum . 


32-A, 32-E, 35-A-a, 35-A-b . . . 


240, 242, 264. 265 




Queen of Violets . . . 


32-G-b-2 


244 




regale 


32-H-b 


246 




Hellebore. Green . . . 


38-A 


279 




HelleboTus niger .... 


29-A, 31-B-b, 31-F, 33-E-b, 38-A . 


204. 223, 230, 253, 279 




Helonias bullata .... 


24-A-a, 29-H, 31-L-c, 45-A-a . . 


180. 209, 235, 319 




Hemerocallis (in variety) . 


31-B-h, 31-C-a, 31-F, 31-M-b, 43-1. 


226, 227, 230, 235, 309 




auranliaca 


37-A-c 


277 




Jlava 


31-H, 31-L-c. 37-A-c 


231, 235, 277 




fulpa 


31-H 


231 




thunbergi 


37-A-c 


277 




Hemlock, Canadian. . . . 


9-A. 9-B, 9-D, 12-A-a. 12-C, 14-A-a 


112, 113, 124, 125. 134. 


145, 




16-B-a, 20-D-b, 24-C-a, 27. 28- A, 30-B 


166. 182. 193. 197, 213, 


290, 




40-C-a, 44-F. 46-E 


316. 338 




Carolina 


9-A, 9-B, 12-C 


112, 113, 125 




Dwarf 


9-E 


114 





Hemlock 



Name 

Hemlock. Globe . . 

Sargent's Weeping . 

Western .... 
Hemp-tree, Cut-leaved 
Henna 

Red-flowering. 
Hepatica (in variety) 

triloba 

Heracleum mantegazzianum . 
Herb gardens. Books on 
Hercules Club . 
Herniajia glatna 
Herniary .... 
Hesperis matronalis . 
Heuchera (in variety) 

tnizoides 

sanguinea . 
Hibiscus (in variety) 

Chinese 

moscheutos 
moscheutos hytnida 
syriactts 



Hickory .... 

Nutmeg 
Hills of Snow . . 
Hippeastrum 
Hippophae rhamnoides 



Hobble-bush 
Holly (in variety) 
American . 



Dahoon . . 

English 

Japanese . 

Mountain . 

Small-leaved . 
Hollyhock 

Holodiscus discolor art 
Honesty .... 
Honeysuckle 

Brown's 

Bush .... 

Coral .... 

Dutch .... 

Early Fragrant . 



Fly Bush . 
French 
Heliotrope 
Japanese . 



Japanese Bush 
Large-fruited . 
Late- blooming 
Prostrate . 
Purple- flowering 
Standish's Bush . 
Tartarian . 

White Tartarian 

Yellow . . . 

Zabel's 
Hop Tree . 
Hop Vine. 

Cut-leaved . 
Hop. Japanese . 
Hornbeam 

American . 

European . 

Globe . . . 

Hop . . . 

Pyramidal 



404 

Group 
9-E 

14-A-b,'46-H-a '. '. '. 

42-A-b 

43-F-a 

43-F-d 

28-B, 29-C, 31-C-b. 40- A 
28-B, 29-C, 31-C-b, 40-A 
31-L-c 

il-B, 26-B,' 43-F-a, 45-H-a 

29-A 

29-A 

31-C-a, 37-A-c, 45-1 . . 

. 30-A 

15-C, 31-D .... 
15-C, 31-B<, 31-C-b, 31-H, 

44-G 

16-C. 43-E-a, 43-F-a, 43-F 

43-F-e, 43-J-b . . 
31-B-j, 31-B-k. 31-E, 31-L-c 

31-M-b 

11-B, 12-D. 14-B. 16-A. 1! 

19-1. 26-B-c. 40-B, 40-C- 

45-B-b. 4S-E . . 

19-H 

16-C. 43-E-a. 43-F-a, 43-F 

43-F-e, 43-J-b . . . 
22-B, 38-C-a, 39, 40-C-a. 



19-C 
43-1. 



12-A-b, 12-E-d. 17. 20-B, 24-B-b. 

26-A-c, 33-E-b. 42-A-a, 44-A-a 
27 



45-1 
43-F-d, 



42-A-b, 
43-'F-d', 



44-G. 45-E. 45-G 

20-B, 20-C, 20-D-b, 40-C-b, 43-B-a, 
43-B-b, 43-D, 43-J-a, 45-B-a, 45-H-b 

43-D 

45-B-a. 46-A-b. 46-H-b .... 
16-B-a, 20-B, 45-B-a. 46-A b, 46-H-b 
26-A-c 

31-B-f. 31-B-g,' 31-B-h, 3i-E', 31-N,' 39. 

46-C-b 

31-J 

20-D-a, 20-D-b, 34-A, 34-C, 42-A-a 

45-A-b 

13-B-a, 18-B. 23-B. 24-C-b. 27, 45-G 
22-C-b-l, 43-C-a, 43-G .... 

46-G 

12-A-b, 17. 18-B, :9-A. 19-F-a, 22-C-b-l 

37-A-a, 41. 45-B-b . . . 
12-E^, 37-A-a .... 

31-J 

29-E-a 

18-B. 22-C-b-2. 24-B-c. 24-C<, 25-C, 

29-E-c, 34-E. 43-C-a. 43-G. 44-G 

45-A-b, 46-B-b, 46-G . . . 
13-A-c, 19-B, 19-G-a. 20-B, 46-E 
15-B, 18-B, 29-E-a. 37-A-a . . 
12-D, 13-A-c, 46-C-a . . . 

29-E-a 

45-A-b 

19-A. 22-C-b-l. 45-F-c . . . 
12-D. 13-A-c, 16-A, 19-B, 19-1, 20-B, 

26-A-c, 27, 42-B-a, 44-A-a 

19-G-a 

38-C-b 

12-D. 13-A-c. 19-B . . . 
17. 25-A. 26-B-a .... 

32-F-b, 45-L 

32-F-b 

34-E 



39 

12-C. 16-D-a, 22-B, 28-A. 40-C 

12-A-b, 16-A, 16-B-b, 16-D-a, 40-C 

16-B-b 

22-C-a, 30-A, 30-B. 40-C-a 
14-A-b 



Hornbeam 

Pace 

114 

114 

135, 339 

297 

306 

307 

197. 205, 228. 289 

197. 205, 228, 289 

235 

344 

120, 162, 305, 327 

204 

204 

227, 277, 330 

212 

140. 229 

140,223,228,231,232,330 

316 

146. 305, 306, 307, 310 
226, 230, 235 
235 

120. 125. 135, 144. 156, 159, 
191, 289, 291, 297, 321, 323 



173, 280. 284, 290 
328 

155 
309 
124. 126, 149, IK?, 181, 190, 

253, 296, 313 
193 

316, 327 
163, 166, 291, 301, 302, 304, 

310, 320, 329 
304 

320, 335, 340 
145, 163, 320, 335, 340 
190 
124 

224, 225, 229, 236, 284 
337 
233 

165, 166, 260, 261, 296 
320 

130, 151, 177, 182, 193, 327 
175, 303, 308 

124. 149, 151. 154, 158, 175, 
276, 293, 321 

126, 276 

233 

207 

151, 175, 182, 183, 187, 207. 

261. 303. 308, 317, 320, 336, 

338 
130, 155, 158, 163, 338 
139, 151, 207, 276 

125, 130, 336 
207 

320 

154, 175. 326 

125, 130, 145, 155. 159. 163, 

190, 193, 297, 313 
158 

125, 130, 155 

149, 186. 191 

242, 333 

242 

261 

284 

125, 146, 173, 196, 290 

124. 144. 145, 146, 291 

145 

174. 212, 213, 290 
135 



Horse-chestnut 



Name 



40s 



Incense Cedar 



Horse-chestnut .... 


14-A-a. 19-B. 39, 42-C 










133, 155, 284, 298 




Common 


10-C, 11-A. 20-F . . 










117, 119, 167 




Dwarf 


14-B. 19-G-b, 42-B-b. 










135, 158, 297 




Himalayan .... 


45-C 










321 




Red-flowering 


46-D 










337 




Wilson's Chinese . . . 


45-C 










321 




Horse-tail Rushes . . . 


30-A 










212 




Horticultural Varieties . 


33 










247 




Houseleek 


24-E. 29-G, 32-G-a-l . 










184, 209. 243 




Alpine 


32-G-a-l .... 










243 




Spiderweb 


29-F, 32-G-a-l . . 










208. 243 




Houstonia caerulea . 


29-H 










209 




serpyllifolia .... 


45-A-a 










319 




Hovenia dulcis .... 


45-H-a .... 










328 




Hunnemannia Jumaiiaejolia 


32-A, 32-H-a . . . 










240. 246 




Humulus japonicus . 


34-E 










261 




lupulus 


32-F-b, 45-L . . . 










242. 333 




tupulus japonicus . 


32-F-b 










242 




Hyacinth (in variety) . . 


36-A. 36-E-a, 36-E-b 










270. 274 




Summer 


31-G 










231 




Hyacinth Bean . . , , 


32-F-b 










242 




Hyacinthus 


36-A 










270 




caiidicans 


31-G 










231 




Hybrid Broom .... 


45-F-c 










325 




Hydrangea (in variety) . . 


14-B, 16-C. 19-G-b, 26-B 
43-F-b. 43-F-e . . 


c. 


39, 


42- 


\-b 


135. 146. 158, 191. 284. 
306. 307 


297, 


arborescens .... 


13-B-b. 19-D, 27. 28-A, 4 


2-fi 


.a 






131, 156. 193, 196, 296 




arborescens grandifloia 


26-A-c, 45-F-c. . . 










190. 326 




arborescens sterilis. 


19-C 










155 




Climbing 


34-B. 45-L . . . 










260, 333 




Garden 


45-F-a 










324 




hmtensis 


43-F-a 










306 




Japanese 


43-F-a 










306 




Large-flowered 


19-D. 19-1, 24-B-b . 










156, 159, 181 




Large-flowered Wild . . 


26-A-c. 45-F-c. . . 










190, 326 




Oak-leaved .... 


22-B, 27, 45-F-c. 45-H-b 










173, 193, 326, 329 




oputoides hortensia 


45-F-a 










324 




opuloides otaksa . 


16-C, 43-F-b, 43-F-e . 










146, 306, 307 




Panicled 


19-D 










156 




paniculata 


19-D 










156 




paniculata grandiflora 


19-D, 19-L 24-B-b . 










156, 159, 181 




petiolaris 


45-L 










333 




quercijolia 

Wild 


22-B, 27, 45-F-c. 45-H-b 










173, 193, 326, 329 




13-B-b. 19-D, 27, 28-A. 4 


2-P, 


-a 






131, 156. 193, 196, 296 




Hydrastis canadensis 


28-B 










197 




Hydrophyllum appendiculatum 


29-C 










205 




vtrgtmcum 


29-C 










205 




Hypericum (in variety) 


19-D, 19-F-b . . . 
13-B-a, 33-E-b. 45-F-a 










156. 158 
130, 253, 324 




buckleyi 


22-C-b-l .... 










175 




catycinum 


28-B. 29-E-b, 29-H, 45-F 


-a 








197, 207, 209, 324 




densifiorum .... 


24-A-a 










180 




glomeratum .... 


45-F-a 










324 




kalmianum 


26-B-c. 28-B . . . 










191. 197 






13-A-a. 15-B, 29-H, 31-B 


-h. 


45- 


F-a 




128, 139, 209. 226, 324 




nudiflorum 


45-F-a 










324 




patulum henryi 


13-A-a, 22-C-b-l . . 










128. 175 




prolificum 


45-F-a 






. . 324 




Iberis amara coronaria . 


32-G-a-2 244 




sempervirens .... 


15-C, 29-A. 29-F. 31-B-b, 31-M-a 


, 140, 204, 208, 223. 235, 


253. 




33-E-b. 46-B-a, 


336 




umbellata 


32-A, 32-B, 32-D. 32-G-a-2 






240, 241, 244 




Ilex (in variety) . . . 


44-G, 45-E, 45-G . . . 






316, 323, 327 




aquifolium .... 


45-B-a. 46-A-b. 46-H-b . 






320, 335. 340 




cassine 


43-D 






304 




crenata 


16-B-a, 20-B, 45-B-a. 46-A-b. 46-H-b 


145, 163, 320. 335, Zf.O 




glabra 


12-B, 13-B-b. 16-B-b. 29-H, 40-C-b 


124, 131, 145, 209, 291, 325 




45-F-b 






microphylla .... 


12-B 


124 




opaca 


20-B. 20-C, 20-D-b, 40-C-b, 43-B-a 


163, 166. 291, 301, 302, 


304, 


43-B-b, 43-D. 43-J-a, 45-B-a, 45-H-h 


310, 320, 329 




specimens 


43-B-b 


302 




verticillata 


13-B-c, 20-B, 20-C. 20-D 


b, 24-A-a 


131, 163, 166, 180, 190, 196 




26-A-c. 28-A . . . 








Illustrations. List of. . 










XXV 

240 




Impatiens balsamina 


32-A' ; ." .■ ; .' 










biflora 


31-N 








236 




pallida 


30-B 








213 




sultana 


35-B-b 








266 




Incarviltea delevayi . 


45-1 








330 




Incense Cedar .... 


43-B-b, 45-B-a, 45-D, 45 


E, 


45- 


K-a 




302, 320. 322, 323, 331 





Indian Bean 

Name 



406 



Ivy 



Indian Bean . 

Dwarf . 
Indian -cturant 



Indian Paint 

Indigo, Blue 

False 

Tennessee False .... 

Yellow False 

Informal Ellects .... 
Inkberry 

Insecticides 

Insects. Plants subject to . 

Introduction 

Arrangement of the material 
Evergreens and their adapta- 
tion 

Grouping of plants, method 

and reason 

Illustrations, The purpose of 



Group 

10-C. I9-C. 20-F, 24-C-a, 42-C, 44-G . 

16-B-b 

13-A-a, 13-B.a, 17. 20-B, 20-D-a, 
20-D-b. 24-B-b, 26-B-e, 27, 29-E-a, 
44-B-a, 45-F-a, 46-C-b 

45-1 

31-B-e 

13-B-b. 19-H. 31-M-b, 42-A-b, 45-1. 
45-J 

45-F-a 

-B-d 



17 



the 



Index and method of using . 

Method of treatment . 

Method of using the book . 

Range of material 

Range of plant adaptation in 

general 

Ipontoea (in variety) 

hederacea 

purpurea 

hesine herbsti 

tiudeni 

Iris 

American Dwarf .... 

Celeste 

Crested 

cristata 

Dalmatian 

Diseases of 

European Dwarf .... 

Fertilizing 

florentina 

Florida 

German (in variety) . 

germanica 

gertnanica fiavescens . 

germanica hybrids . 

gertnanica Kharput 

germanica — Queen of May 

hexagona 

Japanese 

kaempferi 

Lime for 

Oriental 

oiientalis 

pallida dalmatica .... 

Pink German 

Planting 

pseudacorus 

pumila 

pumila azurea .... 

pumila hybrida .... 

Rotting 

Siberian 

sibirica 

Transplanting of . 



35-A-c, 35-B-a 

32-F-a 

32-F-b, 38-C-a 

32-G-b-l 

32-G-b-l, 35-B-c 

31-A. 31-K-b. 39, 40-A, 45-1 . . 
29-F 

15-C, 29-F,'31-B-a, 3i-C-b, 45-A-b'. 
15-C, 29-F, 31-B-a, 31-C-b. 45-A-b. 
31-B-e 



31-B-a. 31-B-d 



29-A 

43-1 

31-B-a. 31-B-d, 31-F, 31-1, 37-A-c . . 

31-F, 31-1. 37-A-c 

31-B-d 

31-B-a 

31-H 

31-B< 

43-1 

31-B-e, 31-B-f, 31-F, 31-1, 31-L-c . . 
31-B-e, 31-B-f. 31-F, 31-H, 31-1, 31-L-c 



31-L-c . . 
31-L-c . . 
31-B-e, 31-H 
31-B-c . . 



31-B-d. 31-C-a,31-L-b 

29-F 

31-B-a 

31-B-d 



versicolor 

Ironweed 

Ilea virginica 

Iva citiata 

Ivy. Algerian 

Boston 

Carrier's Japanese Evergreen 
English 



Henry's 

Hybrid Japanese Evergreen . 



29-F 

31-B-a, 31-C-a 

13-B-a, ■ 18-B, '24-A-a, 26-B-c, '37-'A-a', 
45-F-c 

35-C-a 

45-L 

34-B, 39. 45-A-b. 46-G 

18-A 

28-B. 29-C. 34-B, 35-A-a, 35-B-a, 39, 
40-B, 43-C-b, 43-G, 45-A-a, 45-L, 
46-B-b, 46-G 

45-L 

28-B, 29-A, 29-C, 29-E-c .... 



117, 155, 167, 182,298, 316 
145 

129, 130. 149, 163, 166, 182, 
191, 193, 207, 314, 324, 337 

330 
224 

130, 159, 235, 297, 330, 331 

323 
223 
148 
124. 131, 145, 209. 291, 325 



265 

242 

242, 281 

244 

244. 266 

222, 233, 284, 289, 330 

208 

231 

140,: 

140, 

224 

284 

222, 

113 

204 

309 

222, 

230,; 

223 

222 

231 

223 

309 

224, 

224, ; 



235 

235 

224. 

223 

39 

224. 

208 

222 

224 



231 
227. 234 



222. 227 

130. 151, 180, 191, 276, 326 



260, 284, 319, 338, illus. 335 

151 

197. 205, 260, 264, 265, 284, 

289, 303, 308, 319, 333, 336, 

338 

197, 204, 205, 207 



Ivy 



407 



Juniperus 



Ivy, Kenilworth .... 
Large-flowered Kenilworth 


15-C, 35-A-b, 35-B-a 








140, 265 




15-C ..... . 








140 




Lowe's Boston 


34-B 








260 




Scarlet-fruited Japanese Eve 














green 


18-A, 29-A 








151, 204 




Small-leaved English . 


15-C 








140 




Small-leaved Japanese Ever 














green 


29-F 








208 




Summer 




35-B-a 








265 




Ixia 




36-E-a 








274 




Ixora . 




43-J-b 

43-F-d 








310 
307 




colei 




43-F-a 








306 




flore luleo 




43-F-c 








307 




rosea splendent 


43-F-b 








306 




Rose-coloured .... 


43-F-b 








306 




Scarlet 


43-F-d 








307 




White 


43-F-a 








306 




Yellow 


43-F-c 








307 




Jack-in-the-pulpit . 






Jacobean Lily .... 


36-E-b 








274 




Jacob's Ladder, American . 


31-C-a, 45-1 .... 








227. 330 




Jamestown Weed 


38-A 








279 




Japanese Gardens . 

Books on 


.15 








136 












344 




Japanese Raisin Tree . . 


45-H-a'. '.'.'.'.'. 








328 




Japonica 


43-F-b. 43-H, 45-B-a, 45-F-l: 


,4 


5-H 


-b 


306. 308, 320, 324. 


329 


Jasmine 


44-G, 45-F-a. 45-K-b, 45-L 








317, 324, 332. 333 




Cape, See Cape Jasmine . 














Carolina 


43-C-a. 43-G .... 








303, 308 




Carolina Yellow . 


45-L 








332 




Catalonian 


43-C-a 








303 




Confederate .... 


43-C-a, 45-L .... 








303, 333 




Crape 


16-C 








146 




Double Yellow . . . 


45-L 








332 




Naked-ffowered . 


19-F-a, 43-F-c, 46-G . . 








158. 307, 338 




New Chinese .... 


43-F-c, 46-G .... 








307. 338 




Orange 

Red Coral 


43-D, 43-F-a .... 








304, 306 




43-F-b 








306 




Jasminum (in variety) . . 


44-G, 45-F-a .... 








317. 324 




grandiJloTum .... 


43-C-a 








303 




nudifloTum .... 


19-F-a, 43-F-c, 46-G . . 








158. 307, 338 




officinale 


45-L 








333 




primulinum .... 


43-F-c, 45-K-b. 45-L. 46-G 








307. 332. 333, 338 




Jerusalem Cherry Vine 


35-A-b. 35-B-a, 45-L 








265, 333 




Jewel-weed 


30-B. 31-N .... 








213, 236 




Joe-Pye Weed .... 


31-C-a 








227 




Juglans cinerea .... 


40-C-a, 45-H-a . . . 








290. 328 




nigra 


38-C-a, 40-C-a . . . 








281, 290 




sieboidiana .... 


45-H-a 








328 




June Berry 


13-A-b, 17 .... 








129, 149 




Juniper . 




9-B, 39, 42-E .... 








112, 284, 298 




Chinese 




45-E 








323 




Common 




9-A, 15-A, 24-B-b, 25-A . 








111, 138, 181, 186 




Dwarf . 




18-A 








151 




Golden 




9-A 








111 




Greek . 




9-C, 45-E 








113, 323 




Irish 




16-A 








144 




Pfitzer's 




9-A 








111 




Savin . 




9-A. 15-A, 26-B-b. 40-C-a 








111, 138, 191, 290 




Silver-tipped Chinese 


45-E 








323 




Slender Greek . . . 


9-A. 16-D-b-2 . . . 








111, 147 




Swedish 


14-A-b, 16-A .... 








135, 144 




Trailing 


9-A. 18-A 








111, 151 




Waukegan .... 


9-A 








111 




Juniperus (in variety) . . 


9-B, 20-D-b, 29-E-a, 42-E, 4 


4-F 






112, 166, 207, 298, 


316 


barbadensis .... 


43-J-a 








310 




chinensis 


45-E 








323 




chinensis atbo-variegata . 


45-E 








323 




chinensis pfitzeriana . 
communis 


9-A 

9-A, 15-A. 24-B-b, 25-A . 








111 

111, 138, 181, 186 




communis aurea . . . . 


9-A 








111 




communis depressa 


18-A 








151 




communis hibernica . 


16-A 








144 




communis suecica . . . , 


14-A-b, 16-A 








135, 144 




excelsa 


9-C, 45-E 








113, 323 




excelsa stricta 


9-A, 16-D-b-2 .... 








111, 147 




horizontalis 


9-A, 18-A 








111, 151 




harizontalis douglasi . 


9-A 








111 




lucayana 


43-E-a 








305 




prostrata 




26-A-b 








190 





Juniperus 



Juniperus sabina 

sabina tamajiscifolia , 
scopuloTum ... 
virginiana ... 



tngintana cannarti 
virginiana glauca . 
virginiana globosa 
virginiana pyratnidalis 
virginiana schotti . 
virginiana tripartita . 
Justicia, Blue . . 



408 



Laurel 



Group Pace 

9-A. 15-A, 26-B-b, 40-C-a .... 111. 138, 191. 290 

15-A. 18-A 138, 151 

9-A Ill 

9-A. 9-D, 11-A. 12-C, 14-A-a, 16-A, 111, 113, 119, 125, 133, 144, 

24-B.a, 25-A, 25-A-b, 38-C-a, 44-A-a, 181, 186, 190, 281, 313, 314, 

44-D, 45-B-a 320 

9-A. 16-A Ill, 144 

16-A, 44-D, 45-D. 45-E 144, 314, 322, 323 

9-E 114 

14-A-b 135 

9-A, 14-A-b. 16-A, 16-D-b-2, 45-E . . Ill, 135, 145, 147, 323 

18-A 151 

43-F-e 307 



Kadstira Tree 
Kalmia (in variety) 
angustijolia 

Carolina 
latijolia. 

polifolia 
Kentucky Coffee Tree 
Kerria (in variety) . 

japonica 



Knapweed 
Kniphofia pfitzeri 

Knotweed 
Koelreuteria (in variety) 
paniculata . 



Kudzu Vine 
Kumquat. 



I^brador Tea 

Narrow-leaved 
Laburnum vulgare , 
Ladies' Eardrop 
Lady's Slipper . 

Small White . . 
Lady's Thumb . 
Lagerslroemia indica 



Lake front and river 

Shrubs . 

Trees . . . 

Vines . 
Lamium maculatum 
Lantana , 



Lantana . 
Larch 

European . 

Japanese . 
Larix (in variety) 

europaea 

laricina . 

Uplolepis . . 
Larkspur 

Annual 

Chinese 

Everblooming 
Lathyrus latijolius 

odoratus 
Laurel (in variety) 

Carolina 

English. 

Hardy English 

Indian . 

Japanese . 

Mountain . 



33-E-l 



14-A-a, 16-A, 22-A, 45-E . 
13-B-b, 30-A, 40-B. 44-G . 
18-A, 19-E-a, 24-A-b, 29-E-a, 

38-A . . . 
33-E-b . . . 
19-C, 19-E-b, 24-A-b, 27, 

40-C-b . . 
33-E-b . . . 
20-A, 45-H-a . 
44-G . . . 
13-A-a, 19-F-b, 21, 40-B, 41. 

45-F-c .... 
13-A-b, 19-B, 19-Ob, 

26-B-c. 27, 42-A-a . 

31-B-h 

31-B-l, 31-G . . . 
3I-B-k. 31-D. 31-1, 45-1 
31-E. 34-A, 45-L, 46-G 

42-B-a 

14-A-a, 19-C, 19-F-b, 

45-H-a .... 
29-E-c. 34-C, 34-E, 45-L, 
43-D . . . 



24-A-b, 29-H, 33-E-b. 



20-B, 



22-A, 



46-G 



42-A-a, 
2b-C 



33-E-b . 



17. 19-F-b, 42-B 

35-B-b . . . 

28-B . . . 

24-A-a . . . 

30-B . . . 

16-C, 43-F-a, 43-F-b, 43-F-d, 

43-J-b. 45-H-b, 45-K-b . 
25 



25-B 

25-A 

25-C 

28-B, 31-C-b 

35-B-a, 35-B-b, 43-1 . . . 

32-G-b-2 

32-G-b-2. 35-B-a, 35-B-b, 43-1 

14-A-a. 39 

12-C, 23-A, 24-C-a . . . 
12-C, 16-D-b-l, 24-C-a . . 

14-A-a 

12-C, 23-A, 24-C-a . . . 
24-A-a. 24-C-a. 26-A-b, 40-C-a 
12-C, 16-D-b-l, 24-C-a . . 
31-A, 31-B-e, 31-D, 31-1, 31-1 

45-1 ... . 
32-A. 32-C, 32-H-b 
31-B.f .... 
31-F .... 
31-D, 34-A . . 
32-A. 32-C. . . 
13-B-b, 30-A, 40-B, 44-G 
33-E-b . . 
45-B-a, 45-H-b, 45-K 
45-F-d .... 
43-B-b .... 
16-C, 45-F-b, 45-G, 

46-A-h, 46-H-b . 
19-C. 19-E-b, 24-A-b, 

40-C-b . . . 
46-A-b, 46-H-b . 
18-A, 19-E-a, 24-A-b, 

38-A . . 



;-b, 46-A-b, 



45-H-b, 

27,' 33-E-b, 38-A, 



29-E-a, 33-E-b, 



133, 144, 173, 322 
131, 212. 289, 317 
151, 157, 181, 207, 253, 279 

253 

155. 157, 181, 193, 253, 279, 

291 
253 

162, 328 
317 

128, 158, 170, 289, 293, 296, 
326 

129, 155, 159, 163, 191, 193, 
296 

225 

227, 231 

2-26. 229, 232, 330 

230, 260, 333, 338, illus. 334 

297 

133, 155, 158. 173, 183, 328 



181, 209, 253 

253 

149, 158, 297 

266 

197 

180 

213 

146, 306, 307, 310, 329 

185 

187 

186 

187 

197, 228 

265, 266, 309 

244 

244, 265, 266, 309 

133,284 

125, 177. 182 

125, 147, 182 

133 

125, 177, 182 

180, 1S2, ISO. 290 

125, 147. 182 

221. 224. 229. 232. 236, 279, 

330. illus. 310 
240, 241, 246 
225 
230 

229, 260 
240, 241 

131, 212, 289, 317 
253 

321, 329, 332, 335, 340 
326 
302 
146. 324, 327, 329, 332, 335, 

339 
155. 157. 181, 193, 253, 279, 

291 
335, 340 
151, 157, 181, 207, 253, 279 



Laurel 



409 



Lilac 



Laurel. Spotted Japanese . 


45-F-b 








324 




Swamp 


33-E-b 








253 




Variegated Japanese . 


45-H-b 








329 




Laurestinus 


43-&a, 43-F-a, 45-B-a, 45-F 

45-K-b, 46-A-b . . . 


-d. 


45- 


H-b 


305, 306, 321. 326. 329, 
335 


332. 


Laurocerasus caToliniana 


43-D. 43-F-a, 45-E . . 








304, 306. 323 




LauTus nobilis .... 


16-C. 45-F-d .... 








146. 326 




Lavandula vera .... 


37-A-c. 37-B-b . . . 








277 




Lavatera iTtmeslTt's splendens 


32-C 








241 




Lavender 


37-A-c, 37-B-b . . . 








277 




Lavender Cotton 


24-E, 29-B. 32-G-b-l, 37-B- 








184. 205, 244, 277 




Lawns — 










52 




Books on 










345 




Keeping free from weeds 










86 




Northern Lawns . 










52 




Drainage of lawn areas 










45 




Fertilizer for lawn prepara 










53 




Preparation of lawn areas 










52 




Seeding of lawns . . 










55 




Sodding 










58 




Old lawns. Renovating of 










84 




Plantings for . 


i3-A '.'.'.'.'.'. 








128 




Seasons for seeding . . 










illus. 14 




Southern lawns . . 










59 




Planting and seeding 










61, illus. 41 




Soil and climatic Condi 














tions as affecting 










59 




Types of grasses for . 










60 




Types of soils . . . 










60 




Lawsonia ineimis 


43-F-a ;;.■;;; 








306 




rubra 


43-F-d 








307 




Lead Plant 


18-B 








151 




Leadwort 


15-C, 29-P, 31-B-i, 31-M-a 








140, 208. 226, 235 




Blue 


43-F-e 








307 




White 


43-F-a 








306 




Leather-tlower .... 


45-L 








332 




Leather-leaf 


18-A, 26-A-c. 29-H, 33-E-b 








151, 190. 209, 252 




Leather-wood .... 


13-B-b. 26-B-c. 42-A-a, 45-F 


-c 






131. 191, 296, 325 




Leaves, Autumn colouration of 


22 








171, illus. 247 




Leaves, Selected for fragrance 


37-B 








277 




Ledum groenlandicum . 


24-A-b, 29-H, 33-E-b . 








181, 209, 253 




palustre 


33-E-b 








253 




Leiophylhtm 


29-H 








209 




buxifolitim .... 


29-B, 33-E-b. 45-F-b 








204, 253, 325 




Lemon Balm .... 


31-N 








326 




Lemon Gum 


43-J-a 








310 




Leopard's Bane . . . . 


31-A. 31-B-d, 31-M-b. 40-A 








221. 223. 235, 289 




Leptamnium virginianum . 


30-B 








213 




Lespedeza bicolor . 


45-F-c 








326 




japonicum 


19-D 








156 




siebotdi 


19-D, 45-F-c .... 








156, 326 




Leucanthemum .... 


31-L-c 








235 




lacustre 


31-L-c 








235 




Leucojum aestivum . 


31-L-c 








235 




vernum carpaticum 


36-B 








271 




Leucothoe catesbaei . 


28-A. 29-H, 33-E-b, 45-F-b 








196, 209, 253, 325 




Lialris (in variety) . . . 


31-G 








231 




pycnostachya .... 


24-E, 31-C-a. 3I-E. 45-J 
24 E 








184, 227, 230, 331 
184 




Libocedrus decurrens . . . . 


43-B-b, 45-B-a, 45-D, 45-E, 45-K-a 


302. 320, 322, 323, 331 




Ligustrum 


11-B. 12-D, 19-G-b, 20-B. 27. 42-A-a 


120, 125, 158, 163. 193, 


296. 




44-G. 45-E 


317. 323 




Accent purpose . . . . 










Plate XXV 




omuTense ...... 


13-A-b, 22-C-b-L 23-B, 43- 


E-b 


4. 


i-H 


129. 175, 177, 305. 308, 


320. 




45-B-a, 46-F . . . 








338 




coriaclum 


45-F-d 








326 




ibola 


16-B-b, 19-C, 20-C. 45-B-a, 


46-/ 


\.-a 




145, 155, 163. 320, 335 




ibota regelianum . . . . 


12-B. 13-A-b, 26-A-c 








124, 129. 190 




japonicum 


22-C-b-l, 45-B-a, 46-H-b 








175. 320, 340 




lucidum 


45-B-a. 45-K-b . . . 








320, 332 




nepaUnse 


43-F-a, 45-B-a, 45-K-b . 








306. 320, 332 




nepalense variegata 


43-E-b, 43-H .... 








305. 308 




ovalifolium 


22-C-b-I, 45-B-b, 46-A-a, 








175, 321, 335 




quihoui 


45-B-a. 45-K-b . . . 








320, 332 




sinense 


45-B-a, 45-K-b . . . 








320, 332 




vulgare 


16-B-b, 20-C. 26-A-c, 46-A-a 








145, 163, 190. 335 




vulgare sempervhens . 
Lilac 


22-C-b-l 

13-A-c, 19-B. 39, 42-A-a. 








175 

130, 155, 284, 297 




Common 


11-B. 12-D. 12-E-a, 25-E 


, 


37- 


\-a 








40-C-b ... 








120, 125. 126. 187. 276. 291 


Double Blue 


19-H 








159 





Lilac 



410 



Lily 



Lilac, Persian .... 


13-A-b 










129 




Tree 


19-C 










156 




Lilacs. Hybrid .... 


19-1, 33-A. 46-C-a . 










159, 249, 337 




Blue to bluish lavender . 


. 33-A 










249 




Double 


33-A 










249 




Single 


. 33-A 










249 




Deep purple red to reddish 


33-A 










. 249 




Double 


33-A 










249 




Single 


. 33-A 










249 




Pink to rosy .... 


33-A 










249 ■ 




Double 


33-A 










249 




Single 


. 33-A 










249 




Select list of ... . 


33-A 










249 




White 


33-A 










249 




Double 


33-A 










249 




Single 


33-A 










249 




Lilies, for: 


. 33-F 










253 




Accent plants .... 












illus. 334 




Calcareous soil 


33-F-d ■. ■ ! ■. ■ 










257 




Clay (if well drained) . 


33-F-h 










257 




Culture in garden soil 
Moist and boggy situations 


33-F-b 










256 




. 33-F-c 










256 




Open sun 


33-F-e 










257 




Sandy or dry soils 


. 33-F-g 










257 




Shady places .... 


33-F-i 










257 




Undergrowth and shrubbery 
















borders 


' 33-F-f 










257 




Lilium (in variety) . . . 


31-A, 31-G, 40-A, 45-J 










222, 231, 289, 331 




auratum 


33-F-b, 33-F-i, 36-B . 










256, 257, 271 




bolanderi 


33-F-g 










257 




canadenst 


29-H, 33-F-c. 36-B . 










209, 256, 271 




candidum 


31-H, 33-F-b, 33-F-d, 3 
36-B 


3-F 


-*• 


33- 


F-h 


231, 256, 257. 271 




caTotinianum .... 


33-F-g 

33-F-b, 33-F-e, 33-F-h 










257 




CTOceum 










256, 257 




elegans 


33-F-e. 33-F-h . . 










257 




hansoni 


33-F-d, 33-F-h, 33-F-i 










257 




henryi 


33-F-i, 43-1 . . . 










257, 309 




japonicum 


33-F-i 










257 




martagon ..... 


33-F-d, 33-F-e. . . 










257 




monadelphum .... 


33-F-d, 33-F-e, 33-F-h 










257 




parryi 


33-F-c, 33-F-i . . . 










256, 257 




parvum 


33-F-c 










256 




philadelphicum . . . 


33-F-b, 33-F-e, 33-F-g. 3 


3-F 


h. 


36-1 


i 


256, 257, 271 




regale 


33-F-b 










256 




JOezU 


33-F-c 










256 




speciosum 


29-H, 31-H, 33-F-b, 33-F 


-f, 


36-1 






209, 231, 256, 257, 271 




superbum 


29.H, 33-F-c . . . 










209, 256 




leriuifolium .... 


29-H, 33-F-b . . . 










209, 256 




teslaceum 


33-F-d 










256 




ligrinum 


33-F-b, 33-F-e, 33-F-h, 3 


5-B 








256, 257, 271 




uiallacei 


33-F-b 










256 




uiashingtonianum . 


33-F-i 










257 




Lily (in variety) . . . 


31-A, 31-G, 40-A, 45-J 










222, 231, 289, 331 




33-F-a, 33-F-e, 33-F-h 










256, 257 




American Turk's Cap . 


33-F-c 










256 




Blue Plantain . , . 


31-B-e 










224 




Boland's 


33-F-g 










257 




Caucasian 


33-F-d, 33-F-e, 33-F-h 










257 




Chilean 


45-1 










329 




Coral 


33-F-b 










256 




Day 


31-B-h, 31-C-a, 31-F, 31-M- 


5,43-1 




226, 227, 230, 235, 
illus. 310 


309, 








European Turk's Cap . 


33-F-d, 33-F-e 




257 




Fortune's Plantain . . 


31-B-e 










224 




Fragrant Orange . . . 


37-A-c 










277 




Gold-banded .... 


33-F-b, 33-F-i, 36-B . 










256, 257, 271 




Golden Turk's Cap . . 


33-F-d, 33-F-h, 33-F-i 










256. 257, 271 




Japanese 


29-H, 33-F-i, 36-B . 










209, 257 




Large-flowered Plantain 


31-B-f 










225 




Lemon 


31-L-c, 37-A-c. . . 










235, 277, illus. 310 




Leopard 




33-F-c 










256 




List 




33-F-a 










253 




Madonna 




33-F-b, 33-F-d, 33-F.e. 3. 


}-F 


h. 


J6-I 


5 : 


256. 257, 271 




Nankeen 




33-F-d 










257 




Panther 




29-H 










209 




Parry's. 




33-F-c. 33-F-i . . . 










256, 257 




Plantain 




29-A, 31-M-a. 37-A-c, 43 


1.4 


5-1 






204, 235, 277, 309, 330 




Royal . 




33-F-b 










256 




Santa Cruz .... 


33-F-c 










256 




Showy 


33-F-b, 33-F-f, 36-B . 










256, 257. 271 




Siberian Coral. 


29-H 










209 




Siebold's P 


antain . . 


31-B-e 










224 





Lily 


4" 






Lonicera 


Name 


GnotiP 


Page 


Lily, Sierra Nevada . . . 


33-F-c 


256 


Southern Swamp .... 


33-F-g 






257 


Spear-leaved Plantain . . 


31-B-e 






224 


Thunbergian 


33-F-e, 33-F-h 






257 


Tiger 


33-F-b, 33-F-e, 33-F-h, 36-B 






256, 257, 271 


Turk's Cap 


29-H 






209 


Wallace's Thunbergian . . 


35-F-b 






256 


Washington 

Wild Red 


33-F-i 

33-F-b, 33-F-e, 33-F-g, 33-F- 


h, 36-E 


'. 


257 

256, 257, 271 


Wild Yellow 


29-H, 33-F-c, 36-B . . . 






209, 256, 271 


Yellow 


43-1 






309 


Yellow Showy 


33-F-i 






257 


Lily Leek 


45-J 






331 


Yellow 


36-B 






270 


Lily-of-the-valley . . . . 


28-B, 29-C, 31-B-b, 31-C-b, 
36-E-a, 37-A-c .... 


31-i, 3( 


)-B' 


197. 205, 223, 228, 232. 270, 
274 


Litnttocharts kitmbotdti , 


43-1. 






309 


Linaiia cynbalaria . . . . 


15-C, 35-A-c, 35-B-a , . 






140, 265 




15-C 






140 


dalmatica 


24-E. 31-D .... 






184, 229 


Linden 


37-A-b. 39 .... 






276, 284 




24-A-a, 44-E-a . . . 






180, 315 




10- A, 46-F 






117, 338 


Crimean 


10-A, 46-D .... 






117. 337 


European 


11-A 

10-A, 11-A, 14-A-a . . 






119 

117, 119, 134 


Linnaea borealis 


15-A, 29-F 






138,208 


Lintifti perenne 


15-C. 31-B-a. 31-H . , 






140, 222, 231 


Liquidaifibaj styraciflua. 


10-B. 14-A-a, 20- A. 22- A, 40-B, 40-( 


;-a 


117, 133, 162. 173, 289, 291, 




43-B-a 43-J-a 45-C, 45-H-a . 




301, 310. 320. 328 


LiriotiendTOn ...... 


42-C 




298 „ „ 


lulipifera 

tuliptfera pyrarnidalis 


10-B, 20-A, 22-A, 40-B, 40-C-b 




117, 162, 173, 289, 291 


14-A-b 




135 


Lists for reference . . . . 








107 




45-l' '.'.'.'.'.'. 






330 


Lobelia 


32-E, 35-B-a, 45-1 . . 






242, 265, 330 


Lobelia (in variety) . . . . 


35-A-a, 45-1 .... 






264, 330 


Annual 


35-A-a 






264 


cardinalts 


32-G-a-2 

31-B-g. 31-C-a, 31-L-c . 






244 

225, 227, 235 


Double 


32-G-a-2 

32-E 






244 
242 


erinus alba 


32-G-a-2 






244 


erinus compacta Crysta 










Palace 


32-G-a-2 






244 


erinus flore plena . . . 


32-G-a-2 






244 


erinus tricolor 


32-G-a-2 






244 




35-B-a 






265 


Spotted '.'.'... 


32-G-a-2 






244 


svphititica 

White Compact . . . 


31-B-e 






224 


32-G-a-2 ..... 






244 


Loblolly Bay 


43-B-a, 43-B-b, 43-D-a . 






301, 302, 305 


Loco-weed, Slender . . . 


38-A ...... 






279 




39, 42-C ..... 






284, 298 




10-C, 11-A, 17, 19-C, 19- 
24-B-a, 24-D, 25-A, 26-B 


"-b 23-A 


117, 119, 149. 155, 159, 177, 


a, 37-A-b 


181, 183. 186, 191. 276, 297 




42-B-b 






Chinese Honey . . . 
Honey 


45-C, 45-H-a . . . . 
10-C, 12-A-b, 20-A, 20-F, 24 


-D,'26-B-a 


321, 328 

117, 124, 162, 167. 183, 191. 


37-A-b, 45-H-a . . . 




276, 328 


Long-spined Honey . . 


45-C 




321 
321, 328 


Japanese Honey . 


45-C, 45-H-a .... 




Pyramidal Black . . . 


14-A-b ...... 




135 


Thomless 


46-D 




337 


Lonicera (in variety) 


38-A 

20-D-a, 20-D-b, 23-B, 3 


i-A,' 3'4-C 


279 

165, 166, 177. 260, 261, 296, 




42-A-a, 45-G . . . 




327 


hella 


12-D, 13-A-c, 19-B . . 




125. 130, 155 


browni 


45-A-b 




320 


fiapa 

fragrantissima . . . 


38-C-b 




281 


12-A-b. 17, 18-B. 19-A, 19-F 
37-A-a, 41, 45-B-b . . 


a, 22-C'-b- 


1, 124, 149, 151. 154. 158, 175, 
276, 293, 321 


heckrolli 

japonica holtiana . . . 


45-A-b ...... 

18-B, 22-C-b-2, 24-B-c, 24 


-C-<;, 25-C 


151, 175. 182. 183. 187. 207, 


29-E-c, 34-E, 43-C-a, 43-G, 44-G 


261, 303, 308, 317, 320, 336, 




45-A-b, 46-B-b, 46-G .... 


338 


tnaocki .,.,., 


12-D, 13-A-c, 46-C-a . . . 




125, 130, 336 




13-A-c, 19-B, 19-G-a. 20-B, 46-E 




130, 155, 158, 163, 338 


periclymenum belgica , 

prostrata 

sempervirens . , . , 

spinosa alberti 

standishi 


46-G 

29-E-a 

22-C-b-l, 43-C-a. 43-G . . . 




338 
207 
175. 303, 308 


15-B, 18-B, 29-E-a, 37-A-a . . 




139. 151, 207, 276 


19-A, 22-C-b-l, 45-F-c . 






154, 175, 326 



Lonicera 






412 






Maidenhair Tree 


Name Group Page 


Lonicera syringanlha . . . 29-E-a 207 


tatarica 


12-D, 13-A<. 16-A. 19-B. 19-1. 20-B 


125. 130, 145. 155, 1.59, 163. 




2(>-A-c. 27. 42-B-a. 44-A-a. . . 


190, 193, 297, 313 


tatarica alba . . . > 


19-G-a 




. 158 


xylosteum 


12-Eh?, 37-A-a . . 






126, 276 


Loose-strife, Common Yellow 


31-L-c 






235 


Japanese 

Pink 


31-C-a 

31-B-g, 31-E. 31-L< . 






227 

225, 230, 235 


Lotus (in variety) . . . 


31-L-a 






234 


American 


43-1 






310 


cOTniculatus .... 


29-F 






208 


Love-in-a-mist .... 


32-A, 32-C. 32-D 






240, 241 


Low-growing plants along th 




inner side of curving road 




ways and at entrances . 


18 






ISO 


Deciduous 




18-B 






151 


Evergreen 






18-A 






151 


Lunaria annua . 






31-J 






233 


Lupine .... 
False .... 






32-C 






241 






31-B-h 






226 


Perennial . 






24-E. 31-B-e . . . 






184, 224 


Lupinus hirsutus 






32-C 






241 


polyphylius . . 






24-E. 31-B-e . . . 






184, 224 


Lychnis .... 






31-C-a, 31-N . . . 






227, 236 


alba . . . . 






31-J 






233 


chakedonica 






31-B-g 

31-B-g, 31-D, 31-J, 31-K 


-a, 45- 




225 

225, 229, 233, 330 


dioica .... 






31-J 






233 


ciscaria splendent 






15-C, 31-B-g . . . 






140. 225 


Lycium barbarum 






26-A-c 






190 


chinense 






26-B-c 






191 


halimifolium . 






24-B-c, 25-C, 29-E-c, 34- 


u, '44- 


B-b. 


182, 187, 207, 261, 314 


Lyonia ligustritia 






26-A-c 






190 


Lysimachia clethroides 






31-C-a 






227 


nummularia . 






28-B, 29-A, 29-C, 35-B-a 


45-A- 


a . 


197, 204, 205, 265, 319 


vulgajis .... 






31-L-c 






235 


Lylhrum salicaiia roseum 




31-E, 31-L< . . . 


, 




230,235 


salicaria roseum superbum 


31-B-g 






225 


Mackaya 43-F-e 307 


Madura pomi/era . 






12-A-b. 20-A, 23-A . 




124, 162, 177 


Madre .... 






43-J-a 




310 


Madrona .... 






46-H-b .... 




339 


Madwort . . . 






43-1 




309 


Silvery . . 






15-C 




139 


Magnolia (in variety) 






14-A-a, 19-A, 39, 40-B, 42-B-a, 43-B-a 
44-G, 45-C, 45-G. 45-H-a, 45-K-a 


, 133, 154, 284, 289, 297, 301, 
317, 321, .327, 328, 331 


acutmnata . 






20-A. 45-C, 45-H-a 


162, 321, 328 


Chinese Purple . 






45-G 




327 


Chinese White . 






37-A-a 




276 


conspicua . 






37-A-a 




276 


denudala . 






45-H-a .... 




328 


gtauca .... 






19-B, 37-A-a . . . 




155, 276 


grandi/tora 






43-B-a, 45-C, 45-G, 45-H 


-a, '45-k-a 


301, 321, 327, 328, 331 


Great-leaved . 






45-H-a 




328 


hvpoleuca . 






45-G 




327 


macrophylla . . 






45-H-a .... 




328 


soutangeana 






19-E-a. 45-H-a . . 




157, 328 


Soulange's 






19-E-a, 45-H-a . . 




157, 328 


Starry .... 






13-A-b, 19-G-a . . 




129. 158 


slellala .... 






13-A-b, 19-G-a . . 




129, 158 


Swamp 






19-B, 37-A-a . . . 




155, 276 


Iripelala 






45-C, 45-G. . . . 




321, 327 


Yulan .... 






45-H-a .... 




328 


Mabonia (in variety) 






42-B-a, 44-G . . . 




297, 317 


aquijolium 






12-A-a, 19-A. 22-C-a-, 2 


-B-b, 33-E-b 


124, 154, 174, 181, 253, 291, 








40-C-b, 45-F-b, 45-F-d 


46-A-b . 


325, 326, 335 


Chinese 






45-F-d .... 




326 


Creeping . 






15-A, 18-A, 28-B, 29-C, : 


3-E-b,'45-F-h 


138, 151, 197, 205, 253, 325 


fortunei. 






45-F-d 




326 


Japanese . . . 






45-F-d 




326 


japonic a 






45.F-d 

46-E 




326 
338 


pinnata. 






45-F-d 




326 


pinnata wagneri . 
Pinnate-leaved 






33-E-b 




253 






33-E-b 




253 


repens .... 






15-A, 18-A, 28-B, 29-C, : 


3-E-b,' 45-F-b 


138, 151, 197, 205, 253, 325 


Southwestern . . 




45-F-d 




326 


Maidenhair Tree . . 






10-B, 11-A, 22-C-a, 45-C 


45-H- 


a . 


117, 119, 174, 321, 328 



Maintenance 



413 



Maple 



Name 

Maintenance 

Chemicals used in spraying 
Different types of gardens, 

Maintenance of . . 
Annual flower gardens 
Cutting gardens. Mainte- 
nance of 

Informal flower gardens, 
Maintenance of . . 
Refined flower gardens, 

Maintenance of . 
Rock gardens, Mainte 

nance of 

Rose gardens. Maintenance 

of 

Wall gardens. Maintenance 

of 

Water gardens, Mainte- 
nance of . 
Wild gardens, Maintenance 

of 

Evergreens, Maintenance of 
Fertilizing annuals 
Forms of sprays . 
Formulas for sprays . 
Lawns. Maintenance of 
Enemies to lawns . 
Fertilizing lawns 
Mowing lawns . 
Rolling and weeding . 
Watering lawns 
Outfits for spraying . 
Perennials, Maintenance of 
Diseases of perennials and 

control 
Dividing perennials and 

renovating beds . 
Fertilizing perennials 
Mulching perennials for 

winter protection 
Removing seed pods and 

general care . 
Watering perennials 
Requirements 
Rhododendrons and other 
broad-leaved evergreens. 
Fertilizing rhododendrons 
Season for spraying . 
Shrubs, Maintenance of 
Spraying don'ts 
Spraying trees and shrubs 

Symptoms and treatments 
Trees, Maintenance of 
Fertilizing trees 
Tree surgery 
Watering trees . 
Vines, Maintenance of 
Mallow .... 
Marsh .... 
Musk .... 
Swamp .... 
Mallow Marvels. 
Malpighia coccigera . 
Maltese Cross 
Malta moschata . 
Malvaviscus arboreus 
Mandrake 
Mangifera indica 
Mango .... 
Manilla Grass 
Manure, How to use for 
Bulbs .... 
Irises .... 
Peonies. 
Maple (in variety) . 
Columnar Sugar . 
Drummond's . 
European Cork 
Globe Norway 
Japanese ... 

Norway 
Oregon 



32-C 

45-J 
37-A-c 
31-B-j. 3 
31-M-b. 
43-D 
31-B-g , 
37-A-c 
43-F-d , 
28-B 
43-B-b, ^ 
43-B-b, 
43-G 



30- A, 30-B, 
16-A, 16-D 
38-C-b 
13-A-b, 
16-B-b 
14-A-a, \i 

46-C-a 
10-B, 22-C 
46-D . 



39 
b-1 

B-b, 16-D-a 

22-B, 

a, 44-E-b,*46-] 



-B-b, 
-C-b/ 



74 

83 

241 

331 

277 

226, 230, 235 

235 

304 

225 

277 

307 

198 

302, 304 

302. 304 



212, 284 

144. 147 

281 

124. 145, 146, 321, illus. 158 

145 

133, 139, 173, 290, 316, 336 

117, 173, 315, 337 



Maple 



Maple. Pyramidal Silver 
Pyramidal Sugar . 
Red 



414 



12-C. 12-D, 14-Ab, 16-A, 16-D-b-l 

14-A-b 

19-A, 20-B, 22-A, 24-A-a, 24-C-a, 



Mock Orange 



Schwcdler's Purple 

Siberian 

Silver .... 

Soft 

Striped . . . 
Sugar .... 



Sycamore 

Tartarian 

Vine 

Marguerite, Hardy . 
Mangold, African varieties 

French 

Marsh 

Pot 

Tall Double African . . 
Mascarene Grass 
Mass plantings. Shrubs for 
Matrimony Vine 

African 

Chinese 

Matthiola 

incana 

ittcana annua . . 
Maurandia (in variety) . 
Maurandy Vine (in variety) 
Meadow Beauty. 

Meadow-rue 

Meadow-sweet .... 

Herbaceous .... 

Japanese 

Medlar 

Meiboma 

Metia azedarach umbraeutifOT' 



Melissa officinalis 
Menispermum canadense 
Meiatia praecox . 
Mertensia vir^inica . 
Mice, Protection against 
Michelia fuscata . . 
Mignonette .... 
Milfoil. Yellow . . . 
Milkweed, Red . . . 
Swamp .... 
Milkwort .... 
Box-leaved 

Mimosa 

Minnesota, Plants for . 

Autumn colouration of leaves 
Early .... 
Medium . . 
Evergreens . . . 
Ground cover . . 
Shrubs .... 
Vines .... 
Hedges .... 
Barriers 
Windbreaks. 
Heavy, formal effects 
Plants not hardy in M 

sota .... 
Street trees 

Adapted to special condi- 
tions .... 
Entirely hardy 
Miscanlhus (in variety) 
compactus .... 
Miscellaneous book references 
Mist Flower .... 
Mitchella repens , 



Mixtures of grass seed 
Mock Orange 

Common . 

Dwarf . 

F'alconer's . 

Golden Dwarf. 



26-A-a, 38-C-b, 40-B, 43.B 

46-F 
14-A-a 

12-C, 22-A, 25-A, 25-B-a, 
12-E-e, 2:i-A, 40-B 
10-C, 44-E-b 
21,27 



10-A, 22-A, 
44-E-a . 
46-D . . 
12-C, 44-A-b 
46-C-b, 46-F 
31-A, 31-B-h, ; 
32-A, 32-H-a 
32-H-a 

31-L-b. 31-L-c 
32-A, 32-H-a 
32-H-b 
43-G . . 
13-A . . 
24-B-c. 25-C, ; 
26-A-c . . 
26-B-c . . 
32-H-b 

32-A, 32-E, 32 
32-H-a 

35-A-a, 35-B-s 
35-A-a, 35-B-s 
24-A-a . . 
15-C, 30-A, 31 
19-C. 26-A-c, ; 
31-C-a, 45-1 
31-C-a . . 
43-D . . 
30-B . . 



43-B-a, 45-H-a, 
31-N . . 
44-B-b, 45-L 
45-F-a . . 
29-H. 31-B-a 



43-F-c. 45-F-d 
29-1. 32-A. 32 
29-A. 31-B-h 
24-A-a 



31-L-c . . 

29-C . . 

33-E-b . . 
43-B-a, 45-H- 

44 . . . 

44-C . . 

44-C-a . . 

44-C-b . . 

44-F . . 

44-B . . 

44-B-a . . 
44-B-b 
44-A 



44-A-a . 
44-A-b . 
44-D , 



44-E-b . . 
44-E-a . . 
31-E, 31-L-c 
38-C-a . . 



31-B-i, 31-1, 31-L-c 

15-C, 24-A-a, 28- 

30-A, 31-C-b 



19-C, 19-G-b, 27, 
12-E-e. 13-A-c, 19- 
I2-B, 15-B. 
13-A-c . . 
I2-B . . 



B, 29-B. 29-C 



Pace 
125, 134, 144, 147 



133 

125, 173, 186. 191, 338 

126, 177, 289 
117,315 
169. 193 

116, 173, 182, 196, 314, 315 

337 

125, 313 

337. 338 

22 1 , 225. 229, 233, 330, Ulus. 294 

240, 246 

246 

234, 235 

240. 245 

246 

308 

128 

182, 187, 207, 261, 314 



246 
240. 
246 
264. 
264, 
180 
140. 
156. 
227. 
227 
304 
213 



212. 223. 228, 235, 330 

190. 207 

330 



301, 328, 331 
236 

314, 333 
324 

209, 222, 331 
116 

307, 326, 332 

210. 240. 241 
203, 225 
180 

234 

205 

253 

301, 327, 331 

312 

314 

314 

314 

315 

313 

313 

314 

313 

313 

313 

314 



315 

315 

230,235 

280 

345 

226, 232, 235 

140, 180, 197. 204, 205. 209, 

212, 228 
55 

155, 158, 193, 293, 296 
126, 130, 159, 187, 276 
124, 139 
130 
124 



Mock Orange 



415 



Naturalizing 



Mock Orange, Gordon's. . 


. 46-E 








338 




Hybrid 


37-A-a 








276 
149, 177 




Large-flowered 


17, 23-B 










Lemoine's 


46-C-a 








337 




Native 


46-C-b. 46-E .... 








337, 338 




Scentless 


28-A 








197 
203 
277, 331 




Moist soils. Ground cover for 


29-A 










Monarda 


37-A-c, 45-J 








didyma 


31-B-g, 31-H, 31-K-a. 37-B-b 






225, 231, 233, 277 




fistulosa 


31-C-a 






227 

197, 204, 205, 265, 319 




Moneywort 


28-B, 29-A, 29-C, 35-B-a, 45-A 


a 






Monkshood 


31-B-i, 31-G, 31-N. 38-A, 45-1 






226, 231, 236, 279, 329 




Wilson's 


31-E 






229 
314, 333 




Moonseed, Common 


44-B-b, 45-L .... 










Moon Vine 


32-F-b 








242 
265 




Morning Glory .... 


35-A<, 35-B-a . . . 










Common 


32-F-b, 38-C-a . . . 








242, 281 




Japanese 


32-F-b 








242 




MoTus rubra 


20-D-a, 40-B .... 








165, 289 




alba tatarica .... 


23-A 








177 
133 
139. 208, 209, ?53 




alba talarica pendula . 


14-A-a 










Moss, Flowering. 


15-A, 29-F. 29-H, 33-E-b 










Rose 


29-1, 32-B, 32-G-a-2 . . 








210, 241, 244 




Mother of Thyme . . . 


32-G-a-l 








243 




Mountain Rose .... 


43-C-a, 45-L .... 








302, 332 




Mourning Bride 


31-B-e, 31-1, 32-A . . 








224, 232, 240 




Mulberry 


23-A, 39, 44-G . . . 








177, 284, 316 




Paper 


43-B-a, 45-H-a . . . 








301, 327 




Red 


20-D-a, 40-B .... 








165, 289 




Tea's Weeping . . . 


14-A-a 








133 




Mulching 






Fertilizers for (See Fertilizers 






For the winter 




100 




Mullein, Clasping-Ieaved 


24-E ; '. ■ ■. ". ■ 








184 




Greek 


24-E 








184 




Nettle-leaved .... 


31-D 








229 




Purple 


24-E 








184 




Musa (in variety) . . . 


43-D 








304 




ensete 


16-C 








146 
270 




Muscaii botryoides . 


36-A 










Mushroom 


38-A 








279 




Mustard, Rock-loving Hedge 


15-C 








140 




Myosotis alpestris 


32-B 








241 




palustris 


29-A, 31-C-b, 31-L<, 32-D 








204, 228, 235, 241 




"paluslris semperfiorens 
Myiica (in variety) . 


31-B-a, 31-D .... 








222. 229 




44-G 








317 




CGToUnensis .... 


40-C-a, 45-F-c. . . . 








290, 326 




cerijera 


13-A-a, 13-B-a, 18-B, 20 


B,' 20-C, 


129, 130. 151. 163. 166, 


174, 




20-D-b, 22-C-a, 24-B-b, 25 


-B, 26-A-c 


181, 187. 190, 207, 310 


326 




29-E-a, 43-J-b, 45-F-c . 








sale 


28-A, 45-F-c .... 








197, 326 




Myricaria germanica 


45-F-c 








326 




Myrtle, Downy .... 


43-D, 43-F-b .... 








304, 306 




Sand 


29-B, 33-E-b, 45-F-b . 








204, 253, 325 




True 


45-F-d 








326 

326 _ 




Myrtus communis 


45-F-d 










Nandina domestica . 


45-F-d, 45-G, 45-K-b .... 


326, 327, 332 




Japanese 


45-F-d, 45-G, 45-K-b. . 








326, 327, 332 




Narcissus (in variety) . 


36-A, 39, 45-J . . . 








270, 285, 331 




barri 


36-A 








270 




hoTsfieldi 


36-E-b 








274 




incompaTabilis . 


36-A 








270 




leedsi 


36-A 








270 




leedsi amabilis 


36-B 








271 




Paper White .... 


36-E-b 








274 




poelicus 

Poefs 


36-A, 36-B 








270, 271, illus. 366 




36-A, 36-B 








270, 271, illus. 366 




polyanthus .... 
Trumpet 


36-E-b 








274 




36-E-b 








274 




Trumpet Major 


36-A, 36-B 








270, 271 




Yellow Paper White . . 


36-E-b 








274 




Nasturtium 


32-A, 32-C, 35-A-b, 35-B-a, 


13-1 






240, 241, 265, 310 




Dwarf 


32-G-b-2 








244 




Native collected shrubs. . 


13-B 








130 




Native plants. Books on 










345 




Natural informal effects 


17 .;;:;; ; 








148 




Naturalizing, Bulbs for . 


36-B 








270 




In wild garden 


36-B 








270 




Perennials 


31-C 








227 




Shrubs 


28-A 








199 





Nelumbo 



Name 

Nelumbo (in variety) 
Nfriiopanlhus mucTOnata 
Nepeta glechoma . 

mussini 
Nerium (in variety) 

oleander 

oleander DeBrun 

oleander Savort 
Nettle Tree . . 

Chinese 
Nevtusia alabamensis 
New Jersey Tea 

Hybrid 
Nicotiana 

Nierernbtr^ia gracilis 
NiRella damascena 
Nichlshade, Deadly 

Woody 
Ninebark 

Norfolk Island Pine 
Nuphar . . . 
Nut Trees 
Nymphaea 

alba .... 

rnartiacea . 

odorata 

odorata sulpburea 
Nyssa aquatica . 

sytvatica 



416 



Opuntia 



■-a, 43-J 



31-L-a, 43-1 
26-A-c . . . 
29-A. 29-F, 35-. 
15-C, 24-E. 
16-C . . 
43-E-a, 43-E-b. 
43-F-d . . 
43-F-b . . 
10-B, 11-A, 2 

43-B-a, 44-C-i 
45-C . 
45-F-c 

13-B-a, 18-B, 27, 28-A. 42-A 
45-F-a 
32-E 

35-B-b . . 
32-A, 32-C, 32 
38-A . 
34-D . 
11-B. 17, 

42-A-a 
43-B-b . 
43-1 . 
20-F . 
43-1 . 
31-L-a . 
31-L-a . 
31-L-a . 
31-L-a . 

45-H-a 

14-A-a, 20-D-a, 22-B 

45-C, 45-H-a 



19^G-1 



Page 

234. 310 
. . 190 
35-B-a . 204. 208, 264, 265 

140, 184 
. . 146 
■b, 45-H-b. 305, 306, 310, 329 

307 
. . . . 306 

F, 26-B-a, 117, 119, 165, 167, 191, 301. 
314, 315. 321 

321 

326 

130. 151, 193, 196, 297 

323 

242 

266 

240,241 

279 
. . . . 261 

23-B, 28-A 120, 149, 158. 163, 177, 197, 
296 

301 

310 

167 

310 

234 

234 

234 

234 

328 

133, 165, 173. 180, 290. 321, 
328 



Oak . ... 
Black . . . 
California White 
English. 
Korean . 
Laurel . 



Mossy Cup 
Pin . . 
Pyramidal English 
Red. . . 



Scarlet . . . 
Shingle 
Spanish 

Swamp Spanish 
Swamp White. 
Water . . . 



White . . . 

Willow . . 

Yellow Chestnut 
Ocean Spray 
Oenothera (in variety) 

fruticosa 

jruticosa youngi 

missouriensis . 

speciosa 
Oleander . 

Double Crimson 

Pink . . . 

White . . . 
Oleaster. Broad-leaved , 

Bronze 

Japanese . 

Yellow-spotted 
Olive. American 

Florida 

Fragrant . 

Russian 



Sweet . 
Onoclea sensibitis 

struthiopleris . 
Opuntia vulgaris 



14-A-a. 30-B, 39 



10-A. 22-B. 

24-D 

16-A. 16-D-b-l. 45-E. 
45-H-a, 45-K-a . . 
16-D-a, 43-B-a, 45-C, 45-H-! 
43-B-a, 45-C .... 

25-A 

10-B, 11-A, 24-A-a, 45-C 

14-A-b 

10-A. 22-B, 24-B-a. 26-A-; 

44-C-h, 44-E-a. 45-C 
10-A. 22-C-a, 44-E-a, 45-C, 

45-C 

45-H-a .... 

45-H-a 

24-A-a 

38-C-a. 43-A. 43-B-a. 

45-K-a .... 
10-A. 22-C-a, 24-A-a 
43-B-a, 45-C, 45-K-a 
45-H-i 



40-C-b, 
, 46-F 



46-C-b . . . 
37-A-c, 45-1 . 
31-C-b . . . 
24-E . . . 
31-D . . . 
31-B-h, 31-H . 
24-E 

16-C, 43-E-a, 43-E-b, 
43-F-d .... 

43-F-b 

43-F-a .... 
45-F-a .... 

16-C 

19-F-a. 20-B. 45-F-c 
45-G .... 

21 

43-F-a 

37-A-a. 45-B-a, 45-H-l 
12-D, 12-E-b, 19-F-i 

42-A-a. 46-C-b 
43-F-a. 43-H. 45-B-a. 
28-B. 29-D-b . 
28-B. 29-D-b . 
45-A-b . . . 



117. 173 
183 

145. 147, 323 
328. 331 

147, 301. 321. 328. 331 

301. 322 

186 

117. 119. 180. 322 

135 

116. 173. 181. 189, 291, 314. 

315 322 
116. 174, 315, 321, 337, 338 
321 
328 
328 
180 
281, 301, 321, 328, 331 

116, 174, 180 

301, 322, 331 

328 

337 

277,330 

228 

184 

229 

226, 232 

184 

146. 305, 310, 329 
307 

306 

306 

325 

146 

157, 162, 325 

327 

170 

306 

276. 320. 329. 340 

125. 126. 157. 183, 186, 196, 

337 
306, 308, 320 
197, 206 
197. 206 
320 



Orange 



Name 



Plants 



Orange 
Hardy . 
Kid Glove 
Osage . 
Wild 
Orchis. Yellow-fringed 
Oregon and Washington, 

for use on Coastal Plain of 
Evergreens most used 
Broad-leaved 
Conifers 
Hedges . 

Deciduous . 
Evergreen .... 
Plants for border planting 
Native and collected 
Refined lawn masses 
Plants for ground cover 
OF>en sun 

Shade .... 
Plants for heavily shaded 

locations 

Plants valuable for autumn 

colouration of l 
Vines .... 
Oregon Grape 



Dwarf 

Ornamental plants subject to 

disease and insect riests . 

Ornamental trees and shrubs, 

Books on . . 
Ornitho^alttm umbellatum 
Orris Root 

Osier, Golden-twigged 
Osniatitkus ameiicanus 

aquifolium 

fragrans 
Osmunda cinnamomea 

claytonianc 

regalis . 
Ostrya virginiana 
Oxalis 
Oxalis 

corniculata 

Creeping 

floribitnda 
Oxydendrum arhoreum 
Oxytropus lambertini 



417 

Group 

43-D . . . 
12-A-b, 43-E-b, 45-B-l 
43-D . . . 
12-A-b, 20-A. 23-A. 39 
43-D, 43-F-a, 45-E 
45-J .... 



46 . . 
46-H . 
46-H-b 
46-H-a . 
46-A . 
46-A-a 
46-A-b . 
46-C . 
46-C-b . 
46-C-a . 
46-B . 
46-B-a . 
46-B-b . 

46-E . 



Passi flora 



46-F . . . 

46-G . . . 

12-A-a, 19-A, 22-C-a, 
40-C-b, 42-B-a, 44-C 
46-A-b ... 

46-E . . . 



39 



,21 



36-B 
29-A 
11-B, 
43-F- 
37-A- 
43-F- 
24-A- 
28-B, 
24-A- 
22-C- 
35-B- 
30-A 
32-G 

32-G-a-l 

35-B-a 

14-A-a, 19-D. 22-A, 45-H-a 
38-A 



J, 45-Ba, 45-H-b, 46-H-b. 

1, 43-H, 45-B-a 

1. 29-D-b . . . 

28-D-a .... 

i. 29-D-b . . . 

i, 30-A, 30-B, 40-C-a 



Pace 

304 

124. 305, 321, 328 

304 

124, 162. 177, 285 

304, 306, 323 

331 

334 
339 
339 
339 
335 
335 
335 
336 
337 
337 
335 
336 
336 



282 

345 

271 

204 

135, 170 

306 

276, 320, 329, 340 

306. 308, 320 

180, 206 

197, 206 

180,206 

174, 212, 213, 290 

265 

212 

243 

243 

265 

133. 156, 173, 328 

279 



Pachistima canbyi 
Pachysandra caroliniana 
terminalis 

Paeonia (in ' 

albiflora ; 

festiva 1 

officinalis 

officinalis alba 

suffruticosa 

teriuifolia . 
Pagoda Tree 

Japanese . 
Painted Tongue . 
Palm . . 

California Fan 
Pampas Grass . 
Pansy 

Tufted . . 
Papaver (in variety) 

nudicaule . 

orientate 
Paper Flower 
Papinac 

Paritium tiliaceum 
Parkinsonia aculeata 
PaTtlienocissus kenryana 
Partridge Berry 



B, 29-C, 29- 
a, 46-B-b 
I, 31-K-a, 40- 
31-F, 37-A-c 



45-1 



15-A, 15-C, 29 

33-E-b, 46-B 
31-A, 31-H. 31 
31-B-f, 31-B-g, 
31-H . . 
31-B-c, 45-1 
31-B-b 

3I-B-b, 31-B-c, 
31-B-c, 45-1 
42-C . . 
11-A, 19-F-b, 45-H-a 
32-A, 32-E, 32-H-a 
35-B-c, 43-J-a 
43-B-b .... 

43-1 

29-A, 29-1, 31-J, 32-A, 
29-A. 29-1, 31-B-a, 3 
32-A, 32-C. 32-D . 
31-D .... 
24-E, 31-B-f, 31-B-g 
16-C, 43-C-a. 43-J-c 
43-F-c, 43-J-b 
43-F-c .... 
45-H-a .... 
45-L .... 
15-C, 24-A-a, 28-B, 29-B, 

30-A, 31-C-b 
35-B-a, 45-L . 
38-A, 43-C-a . 



138, 181, 197 
205 

138. 140. 204, 205. 207, 209, 
253. 335, illus. 270 

222, 231. 232. 233. 289 
225. 230. 277 

231 

223. 330 
223 

223, 330 
223, 330 
298 

119, 158,329, 331 

240, 242, 246 

266, 310 

302 

309 

204, 210, 233, 240, 242 

204, 210. 222. 229, 233, 319 

240, 241 

229 

184, 225 

146, 303, 311 

306,310 

307 

328 

333 

140. 180, 197, 204. 205. 209. 

212, 228 
265, 333 
279, 303 



Passion Flower 



Name 

Passion Flower . 

Purple 

Pauhwnia (in variety) . 

tomenlosa .... 
Paved areas, Plants for. 

Pasta 

Paw-Paw .... 
Peach 

Common .... 

David's Flowering 

Double Rose -flowering 

Double White-flowering 

Flowering . 
Pearl Bush 
Pea Shrub 

Dahurian 

Siberian 

Peaty Soils . 
Pecan , . 

Water . . 
Pelargonium . 

hoTtoTum 

kOTtoTum Madame 

Peltatum 
Penstemon barbalus 

Bearded 
Peony. 

Best varieties . 

Chinese 

Deep Pink . 

Diseases of. 

Dividingof. 

Fennel -leaved 

Fertilizing . . 

Light Pink. . 

Old-fashioned . 

Old-fashioned Red 

Pale Pink . . 

Planting of. 

Red. . . . 

Transplanting of 

Tree ... 

White . . . 

Yellow . . . 
Pepper Bush. Sweet 

Mountain . 
Perennials for different pur- 
poses . 
Bog gardens. Perennials 
Colour and season 

Autumn — pink to crimson 

Autumn — purple, lavender, 
or blue 

Autumn — white 

Autumn — yellow to orange 

Spring — pink to crimson . 

Spring — purple, lavender, 
or blue .... 

Spring— white . 

Spring— yellow to orange 

Summer — pink to crimsor 

Summer — purple, lavender, 
or blue 

Summer — white 

Summer — yellow to orange 
Cut flowers 
Dividing of . . . 
Exjge of shrub borders 

Low-growing 

Tall-growing 
Fertilizers for . . . 
For shade .... 
For water's edge . 
Fragrant flowers . 
Good blooming combinations 
Hardy for general use 
Humming birds. Perennials 
for attracting 

List of 

Long flowering period 
Mulching of . . . 



418 



Perennials 



35-B-a. 38-A, 45-L 
43-c-a , 

42-C 

19-H, 37-A-l 
29-F 
42-B-b . 
20-A 
39 

19-Ea 
24-D 
33-C 
33-C 
14-A-a 
13-A-c, 
42-B-a 
12-E-b 
12-E-b, 14 
25-A, 41. 
24-A-b 
45-H-a 
45-H-a 
32-G-b 
32-G-b 
32-G-a 
35-A-a 
31-B-g 
31-B-g 
3I-A, 31 
33-B 
31-B-f, 
33-B 



, 45-H-l 

"-b. 



31-B-g. 



33-B 
31-B-b, 
31-B-c , 
33-B 

33-B 

31-B-b, 
33-B 
33-B 
13-B-b. 

27.28-j 
45-F-c 

31 . 
24-A-a 
31-B 
31-B-k 

31-B-i 
31-B-j 
31-B-l 
3:-B-c 

31-B-a . 
31-B-b 
31-B-d 
31-B-g 

31-B-e 

31-B-f 

31-B-h 

31-1 

31-K 

31-M 

31-M-a 

31-M-b. 

28-B 

31-L-c 

37-A-c 

31-H 

31-A 

31-N 



159, 276, 328 

208 

297 

162 

285 

157 

183 

250 

250 

133 

129, 135, 155, 316, 329 

297 

126 

126. 135. 155. 158. 181. 186. 

293 
181 
328 
327 
244 
244 
243 

264.265 
225 
225 

222. 232, 233, 250. 285. 289 
250 

225, 230. 277 

250 

285 

90.233 

223.330 

91 

250 

233, 330 

223 

250 

286 

250 

223. 330 
250 
250 

131. 156, 158. 180. 191, 193, 

196. 276, 297. 316, 337 
325 

214 
180 
222 
226 

226 
226 
227 
223 

222 
222 
223 
225 

224 

224 

225 

232 

88,233 

235 

235 

235 

91 

197 

237 

276 

231 

221 

236 
221 
228 
102 



Perennials 



NANfE 

Perennials 
Naturalizing in wild gardens 

Low types . 

Tall types . . . 
Not desirable in small, refined, 

formal gardens . 
Peonies. Interplanting with 
Protection of . . . 
Season for transplanting 
Shade enduring, Ground cover 

Dry locations . 

Moist locations. 

In woods .... 

Shady locations 
Supplying perpetual bloom 
To be transplanted fre- 
quently 

Divided each year . 

Divided every three years. 

Divided every two years 
Treated as biennials . 
Transplanting of . 
Water planting, Perennials for 

Deep water 

Land at water side . 

Shallow water . 
Periploca graeca . 
Periwinkle .... 



419 

Group 



Phyllanthus 



31-C . 
31-C-b . 
31-C-a . 



29-B . 

29-A . 

28-B . 

29-C . 

31-F . 

31-K . 
31-K-c . 
31-K-b 
31-K-a . 
31-J . 



White 

Perpetual bloom, Plants for 
Persimmon . 
Petraea volubilis . 
Petunia (in variety) . 



hybrid a .... 

Phalaris arundinacea 
Phaseolus multifiorus 
Pheasant's Eye . 
Phegopteris hexagonoptera 
Phellodendron amurense . 
Philadelphus (in variety) 

coronarius .... 

coronarius nanus . 

coTonarius nanus aureus 

falconeri .... 

gordonianus 

grandifiorus 

inodorus .... 

lemoinei .... 

lewisi 

zeyheri 

Phlox (in variety) . 

Annual .... 

Creeping .... 

divaricata .... 

drummondi . , 

Drummond's . 
Early-flowering . 
Early Garden . 
Garden 

glaberrtma suffruticosa 
Miss Lingard . 
Mountain .... 

ovata 

paniculata .... 



subulata alba . 

suffrutkosa 
Photinia arbuttfolia . 

Evergreen . 

glabra .... 

serrulata 

Japanese . 
Phragmitej communis 
Phyllanthus nivosus . 



31-L .... 

31-L-a .... 

31-L-c .... 

31-L-b .... 

25-C, 29-E-c, 34-C. 34 

15-C, 28-B, 29-A, 29- 
29-F, 29-H, 31-B 
45-A-a, 46-B-b . 

29-H .... 

31-F .... 

20-A, 45-G, 45-H-a 

43-C-a 



25-B, 27, 37-A-i 



29-1, 32-E, 32-G-b-2, 

35-A-b, 35-A-c, 35-B-i 
29-1, 32-E. 32-G-b-2, 

35-A-c, 3S-B-a, 35-B-b 
31-L-c, 32-G-b-l . 
32-F-b .... 
31-B-d, 45-1 . . 
29-D-b . . . 
10-B, 23-A. . . 
19-C, 19-G-b, 41, 42-A-a 
12-E-e, 13-A-c, 19-1, 
12-B, 15-B, . . 
12-B .... 
13-A-c .... 
46-E .... 
17, 23-B . . . 
28-A .... 
46-C-a .... 
46-C-b. 46-E . . 
37-A-a .... 
31-A, 39, 45-1 

29-1 

15-C, 29-A. 29-F, 31 
28-B, 31-C-a, 31-C-b, 
29-1, 32-D, 32-G-a-2, 

43-1 

32-D, 32-G-a-2, 32-H 
31-B-f .... 
31-D .... 
31-B-e. 31-B-f, 31-B-g, 

31-K-a, 31-K-b, 37-A-c, 
31-D . 
3I-H . 
31-C-b . 
31-G-b 
31-B-e, 31-B-f, 31-B-g, 31-F, 31-H, 31-1, 

31-K-a, 31-K-b, 37-A-c 
15-C, 29-A, 29-F, 31-B-c, 31-C-b 
15-C, 29-A, 29-B, 29-E-b, 29-F, 29-G, 

31-B-c, 31-C-b, 45-A-a, 46-B-a 
31-B-b . 
31-B-f . 
45-H-a . 
45-H-a . 
46-H-b . 
45-H-a . 
46-H-b . 
31-L-b . 
43-E-a . 



B-c, 



32 
a, 35-A-a, 43-1 



227 
228 
227 

229 
230 
102 
286 

204 
203 
197 
205 
230 

233 
233 
233 
233 
233 
47 
234 
234 
234 
234 

187, 207, 261, 333 
140, 198. 204. 205, 207, 208, 
210, 222, 253, 310, 319. 336 

210 

230 

1C2, 327, 328 

303 

210, 242, 244, 246, 265, 266 

210, 242, 244, 246, 265, 266 



235, 
242 
223, 
206 
117, 
155, 
126, 
124, 
124 
130 
338 
149, 
197 
337 
337, 
276 
222, 
210 
140. 
198, 
210, 



244 

329 

177 

158, 293, 296 

130, 159, 187, 193, 276 

139 



204, 208, 223, 228 

227, 228, 289 

241, 244. 246, 264, 310 



241, 244, 246, 264, 310 

225 

229 

224, 225, 230, 232, 233, 277, 

330 
229 
231 
228 
228 
224, 225 230, 231, 232, 233, 

277 
140, 204, 208, 223, 228 
140, 204. 205, 207, 208, 209, 

223, 228, 319, 336 
223 
225 
328 
328 
340 
328 
340 
234 
305 



Physocarpus 

Name 
Physocarpus opulifolius 

Physostegia virginiana . 
Picea (in variety) . 
atba 

akockiana . . . . 
canadensis . . . . 
engtlmanni. , . , 
excelsa 

excelsa clanbrasiHana 
excelsa columnaris. 
excelsa compacta , 
excelsa gregariana 
excelsa nana . 
excelsa pygmaea . 
excelsa pyiamidalis 
excelsa tabulaeformis 
rnariana 
omoTtka 
orietitalis . 
orientalis nana 
pungetis 

pungens compacta 
pungens glauca 
rubra .... 
sitchensis . 
Pieris (in variety) . 
fioribunda . 

japonica 

rnariana 
Pimpernel 
Pine (in variety) 

Austrian . . 

Bhotan. . . . 
Bull .... 
Bush White . . 
Corean 

Dwarf Japanese Red 
Dwarf Mountain . 
Dwarf Swiss Stone 
Dwarf White . . 
Giobe Scotch . . 
Jack .... 
Japanese Red . 
Jeffrey's 
Knot-cone 
Long-leaved . 
Monterey . 
Mountain White . 
Oregon 

Pitch .... 
Red .... 
Scotch .... 

Swiss Mountain . 
Swiss Stone 
Umbrella . 
White .... 

Pink 

Chinese 

Jairanese . . . 
Maiden ... 



Mullein 

Scotch . 

White . . . 

White Ground 

Wild . . . 
Pink Flowers. 

Perennials . 

Shrubs . 
Pinkster Flower 

Hybrid . . 



420 

Groijp 

11-B, 17, 19-G-b. 20-B, 
42-A-a .... 

31-B-g, 31-E, 31-G. 31-1. 

12-C. 14-A-a, 30-A. 32-D 

9-A, 9-B, 24-A-a, 25-A 
44-F 

9-A. 9-B .... 

44-A-a, 44-A-b, 44-F 

9-A, 9-B, 46-H-a . . 

9-A, 9-B, 12-A-a, 16-B-a. _ 
25-A, 44-A-a, 44-F, 46-A 

9-E 

14-A-b, 16-D-b-2 . . 

9-E 

9-E. 16-A, is-A ." ; 

9-E, 18-A .... 

9-E 

14-A-b, '16-A. i6-D-b-2, 



Pinkster Flower 



44-D 



9-E 

9-C 

9-A, 9-B, 16-D-b-2 

16-B-a .... 

9-E .... 

9-A, 11-A . . . 

9-E .... 

9-B, 26-A-b, 44-F. 

26-A-b .... 

46-H-a .... 

29-H, 40-B . . 

15-A. 18-A, 22-C-a, 24-A-b, 

45-F-b. 46-C-a, 46-H-b 
12-B, 45-F-b . . . 

45-F-a 

32-B 

14-A-a, 39. 42-D . . 
9-A, 9-B, 25-A, 26-B-b, 

46-H-a .... 

45-D 

9-C, 46-H-a . . . 

9-E 

9-E 

9-A, 9-E. 16-B-a '. '. 

9-A, 9-B, 9-E, 11-A, 15-A, 

9-E 

9-E 

9-E 

9-C, 9-D. 24-B-a. 25-A, 26-A 

26.B-b . 

9-C 

46-H-a 

9-C 

46-H-a . 

46-H-a . 

46-H-a . 

24-B-a, 25-A, 26-A-b, 30-B 

9-A, 9-B, 12-C, 26-A-b. 44-F 

9-A. 9-B, 11-A. 23-A, 24" 

26-B-b, 44-A-b, 44-F, 46-H 
16-B-a, 26-A-b, 28-A 
9-A, 9-B. 16-B-a . 
9-A, 9-B. 14-A-a. 16-A. 45-E 
9-A, 9-B. 9-D. 12-C, 24-B-a, 

44-A-b, 44-F, 46-E, 46-H-a 

31-A 

32-A, 38-C-a 

29-1, 32-A 

15-C. 24-E, 29-B, 29-F, 29-G, 

31-D 

15-C. 29-A, 29-B, 29-E-b, 29-F, 

31-B-c, 31-C-b, 45-A-a, 46-B- 
31-B-g. 31-D. 31-J. 31-K-a, 31- 
15-C, 29-B, 31-B-b, 31-B-c, 37-A-c 
31-J . . 
31-B-b . . 
15-C . . 

31-B . . 
19-E 43-F-b 
13-B-a, 15-B. 19-A, 19-1 

45-F-: 
37-A-a . 



Page 
120, 149, 158, 163, 177, 197, 

225, 230. 231. 232 
125, 133. 212.298 
111, 112, 180, 186. 190, 193, 

316 
HI, 112 
313, 316 

111, 112,339 

112, 124, 145. 177, 182. 186. 
313, 316, 335 

114 

135, 147 

114 

114, 138, 151 

114, 151 

114 

135, 145, 147, 314 

114 

113 

112, 147 

145 

114 

112, 119 

114 

112, 190, 316 

190 

339 

209,289 

138, 151. 174. 181, 253. 325, 

337, 340 
124, 325 
324 
241 
133, 285, 298 

112, 186, 191, 313, 316, 339 

322 

113. 339 
114 
114 

112, 114, 145 

112, 114, 119, 139, 145, 186 
114 

114 
114 

113, 181, 186, 190 
191 

113 

339 

113 

339 

339 

339 

181, 186, 190, 213 

112, 113. 125. 190.316 

112, 113, 119. 177, 181. 186, 

191. 313, 316. 339 
145. 190. 197 
112. 145 

112. 113, 133, 145, 323 
112, 113, 125. 181. 182. 313. 

316, 338, 339 
221 

240, 280 
210, 240 
140, 184, 204, 208, 209, 223, 

229 
140, 204. 205, 207, 208, 209. 

223, 228, 319, 336 
225, 229, 233, 236. 330 
140, 204, 223, 276 
233 
223 
140 

222 

156,306 

130. 139. 154, 157. 181, 323 



Pinus 421 Pliimeria 

Name Group Page 

Pinus (in variety) .... 14-A-a, 42-D 133, 298 

attenuala 46-H-a 339 

banksiana 9-C, 9-D, 24-B-a, 25-A. 26-A-b . . 113,181,186,190 

cembra 9-A. 9-B, 16-B-a 112,145 

cembra compacta .... 9-E 114 

conlOTla 46-H-a 339 



detisi/Io-i 

yosho) . . .' . '. . 9-A, 9-E, 16-B-a 

excelsa 45-D 

jeffreyi 9-C 



191 



koTaiensis ...... __ 

montana 16-B-a, 26-A-b, 28-A 145, 190, 197 

monlana mughus .... 9-A, 9-B, 9-E, 11-A, 15-A, 16-B-a, 25-A 112, 114, 119, 139, 145, 186 

monticola 46-H-a 339 

nigra auslriaca .... 9-A, 9-B, 25-A, 26-B-b, 44-A-b. 44-F, 112, 186, 191, 313, 316, 339 

46-H-a 

paluslHs 9-C 113 

pondnosa 9-C, 46-H-a 113, 139 

radiata 46-H-a 339 

resinosa 9-A, 9-B. 12-C, 26-A-b, 44-F . . . 112, 113, 125, 190, 316 

tigida 24-B-a, 25-A. 26-A-b, 30-B .... 181, 186, 190. 213 

stjobus 9-A. |9-B, 9-D. 12-C, 24-B-a, 24-C-a, 112, 113, 125, 181. 182, 31 

44-A-b, 44-F, 46-E, 46-H-a .... 316, 338, 339 

strobiis brevifolia .... 9-E 114 

sirobus umbraculifera 9-E 114 

sylvestris 9-A. 9-B, 11-A, 23-A, 24-B-a, 25-A, 112. 113. 119, 177. 181. 18 

26-B-b, 44-A-b, 44-F, 46-H-a . . . 191, 313. 316, 339 

svlvestris pumila .... 9-E 114 

Pipsissewa 28-B, 33-E-b 197. 252 

PiQuena iTinma 32-G-b-l 244 

Pitcher Plant 24-A-a, 31-L-c 180,235 

Pithecocteniutn cvnanchoides . 43-C-a 303 

Pilhecolobium duke .... 43-A. 43-J-a 301. 310 

PillospOTum lobira .... 43-E-a, 43-F-a, 43-J-b, 45-B-a, 45-F-d, 305, 306, 310, 320, 326, 332 

45-K-b 

undulalum 43-E-a 305 

Plane, American .... 10-C, 26-B-a 117, 191 

Oriental 10-B, 11-A, 20-A, 21, 22-A, 23-A, 24-D, 117, 119, 162, 170, 173, 1 

46-D 183, 337 

Plant diseases 39 282 

Books on 346 

Plantain, Rattle-snake . . . 29-F, 29-H 208, 209 

Planting (See Transplanting) 29 

Planting and seeding seasons 8 

Deciduous trees, shrubs, and 

vines 9, illus. 14 

Evergreens, Planting seasons 

for 12, illus. 14 

General considerations 8 

Graphic chart showing plant- 
ing and seeding dates 14 

Lawns 13 

Perennials, Planting seasons 

for 12 

Tabulation of planting and 

seeding dates. ... 15 

Deciduous plants ... 15 

Evergreens 17 

Lawns 16 

Planting, chart of seasons . . 14 

Beds, General preparation of 30 

Spacing of plants 36 

Plantings. Screen .... 
Plants for use in congested city 

districts 

Shrubs 

Trees 

Pleached AUees 

Platanus occidentalis 

orienlalis 

Platycodon grandifioTUtn 
Plum 

Beach 

Flowering 

Japanese 

Natal 

Purple 

Purple-leaved 

WUd ....... 

Plumeria 





118 


11-B 


120 


11-A 


119 


16-D-a . ... 


146, illus. 158, 175 


10-C. 26-B-a 


117. 191 


10-B. 11-A, 20-A, 21, 22-A, 23-A, 24-D, 


117, 119, 162, 170, 173, 177. 




183. 337 


24-E, 31-B-e, 45-1 


184, 224, 230 


19-G-a, 20-D-a 


158, 165 


24-B-b, 25-B, 26-A-c 


181, 187, 190, Ulus. 254 


13-A-b, 14-B, 19-A, 33-C, 41, 45-F-a, 


129, 135, 154. 250. 293. 324 


45-F-c, 46-C-a 




19-E-a 


157 


43-D, 43-E-a, 43-J-b 


304, 305. 310 


45-H-a . . . 


328 


14-A-a 


134 


30-A, 45-B-b 


212. 321 


43-J-a 


310 



Plumbago 



Name 

Plumbago captnsis 

capefisis alba 
Plume Grass 
Poa annua . . 
Pcx;ket Planting 
Podachaenium emit 
Podophyllum pellat 
Poinsettia 
Poison Hemlock 
Poison Ivy 
Poison Oak . 
Poison Sumac 
Poisonous plants 

Hay fever . 

Internally poisonous 

Skin irritants . 
Potemonium caeruUum 

reptans 
Polygala chamaebuxus 

paucijolia . 
Polygonum baldsch 

persicaria . 

sachalinense 
Polygonatum multiftor, 
Polypodium vulgar 
Polypody 
Pomegranate . 
Pond-lily, Native 
Poplar 

Balsam . 

Bolle's . 

Carolina 
Lombardy 

White . 
Poppy 

Annual 

California 

Iceland . 

Mexican 

Oriental 

Plume . 

Prickly 

Shirley 

Yellow Homed 
Populus (in variety) 

alba .... 

alba pyramidalis 



balsamifera 

deltoides 

deltoides monilifera 

eugenie 

Jremonti 

nigra italica . 

tremuloides . 
Parana paniculate 
Porcupine Grass 
PoTtulaca grandifiora 

oleracea . 
Potentilla frulicosa 

tridenlata . 
Prickly-ash . 
Primrose . 

Evening 

Himalayan 

Japanese . 

Missouri 

Missouri Evening 

Young's Evening 
Primula (in variety) 

denticulala 

Hairy . . 

japonica 

obconica 

vcris 
Privet . . . 

Amoor River 

California . 



31-C 



43-F 



39. 



Ha 



422 



43-F-e . . 
43-F-a . . 
31-E, 31-L-c, 
38-C-a . . 

43-f'-c '. '. 

28-B . . 

43-F-d . . 

38-A . . 

38-B . . 

38-B . . 

38-B . . 

38 . . 

38-C . . 

38-A . . 

38-B . . 

31-C-a. 45-1 

29-F, 31-B-a, 

33-E-b . . 

29-C 

34-A, 45-L.'46 

30-B . . 

31-E . . 

29-C, 31-C-b 

28-B, 29-D-a 

28-B, 29-D-a 

43-D, 43-E-b. 

31-L-a . . 

12-C. 23-A, 30 

25-A, 26-A-a 

14-A-a. 14-A 
45-H-a, . 

10-C, 25-A, 44 

14-A-a, 14-A-b, 
44-D . . 

26-A-a . 

32-C, 32-D 

32-A . 

32-A, 32-C. 32 

31-D . . 

32-A, 32-H-a 

24-E, 31-B-f, 31 

31-B-f, 31-E. 31 

45-1. 

32-A 

31-J 

12-C, 23-A. 30 
26-A-a . . 

14-A-a. :4-A 

45-H-a . 
25-A, 26-A-a 
38-C-a. 45-H-a 
26-A-a, 45-H-a 

10-C. 25-A, 44-C-a, 44 
24-D .... 
14-A-a. 14-A-b. 16-A, 
44-D. . . . 

21 

43-C-a .... 
38-B .... 
29-1, 32-B, 32-G-a-2 
30-A .... 
19-D, 19-F-b, 29-A 
33-E-b .... 
27, 28-A. 29-E-a . 
31-C-b, 3I-I, 40-A, 45 
31-C-b, 37-A-c, 45-1 
31-D-a .... 
31-B-c. 31-L-c. . 
31-B-h .... 
24-E .... 
31-D .... 
31-C-b. 31-1. 40-A. 45-1 
31-B-a .... 
38-B .... 
31-B-c, 31-L-c. . 
38-B .... 
15-C, 29-F, 31-B-d 
11-B, 12-D, 19-G-b, 
42-A-a. 44-G. 45-E 
13-A-b, 22-C-b-I. 23- B. 43-: 

45-B-a. 46-F . . . , 
22-C-b.l. 45-B-b, 4G-A-a 



Privet 



A. 40-i 

ie-A, 



20-B, 



307 

306 

230. 235. 280 

281 



198 

307 

279 

280 

280 

280 

278 

280 

279 

280 

227. 330 

208. 222. 228. 330 

253 

205 

260. 333. 338 

213 

230 

205. 228 

198, 206 

198, 206 

304. 305. 306 

234 

125. 177, 212, 285, 289 

186, 189 

133. 135. 145, 191,314,328 



189 
241 
240 
240, 
229 
240, 



224, 
330 
240 
233 
125, 
189 



246 

229. 233. 235 



177, 212, 289 

135. 145. 191, 314. 328 



186, 189 

231, 328 

1G9, 328 

117, 186.314. 315 

183 

133. 135, 145, 147, 189, 314 

170 
303 
280 
210, 241, 244 

156. 158. 204 

193. 197, 207 

228. 232, 289, 330 

228. 277. 330 

222 

223.235 

226 

184 

228. 232, 289. 330 

222 

280 

223.235 

280 

140. 208, 224 

120, 125. 158. 163, 193. 285. 

296. 317. 323, illus. 20, 159 
129. 175. 177. 305. 308, 320, 

338 
175, 321. 335 



Privet 

Name 
Privet, Chinese . 
European . 
Evergreen . 
Half -evergreen 
Japanese 
Late-blooming 
Nepaul 

Kegel's . . 
Round-leaved 
Shining-leaved 
Variegated Nepaul 
Propagation of plants, Books on 
Pruning, Articles on 
Books on . . . 
Pruning of Ornamental Plants. 
Evergreens, Pruning of 
Hedges, Pruning of . 
Precautions to observe 
Reasons for pruning . 
Results from pruning 
Rhododendrons, Pruning of . 
Roses. Pruning of. 
Shrubs, Pruning of 
Tools and wound dressings 
Topiary effects. Pruning for. 
Trees, Pruning of 
Root pruning . 
Top pruning 
Vines, Pruning of 
Pruning. Lists for 

Evergreens that can be 

pruned at any time . 
Evergreens that must be 
pruned in May or June 
Shrubs needing complete 
pruning 
Late summer and 

flowering . 

Spring and early sunomer 

flowering . 

Shrubs needing removal of 

old wood only 

Summer pruning 

Winter pruning. 

Trees which require little or 

no pnining 

pTunusi'm variety) 



423 



Pterocarya 



tplei 



t pissardi. 



davidiana .... 
fTUttcosa pendula . 
ilicijolia .... 
japonica .... 
lauTOcerasus 
lauTOcerasus sckipkaensi 
lusitanica .... 

lyorii, 

niQTitima . . . , 
padus commutata . 

persica 

persica alba plena . 
persica rosea plena 
persica vulgaris 
pissardi .... 

pumila 

serotina 

serrulata .... 
sieboldi .... 
spinosa .... 
subhirtella (in variety) 
subhirlella pendula 
tomentosa .... 
triloba 

Pseudotsu^a douglasi 
douglasi globosa . 
Psidium catileianum 
Ptelea trifoliata . 
Pterocarya fraxinifolia . 



Group 
5-B-a. 45-K-b .... 
6-B-b. 20-C, 26-A-c. 46-A-a 
b-1. 45-B-a, 46-H-b 



22-C 
22-C 
16-B 
45-B 
43-F 
12-B, 
45-F 
45-B 
43-E 



b-1 



13-A-b, 26-A-c 



l-a, 



2-B-a 



IB, 19-E 



42-B . 
42-B-a . 
42-B-b , 

42-C 

19-A. 19-G-; 

45-B-b . 

17 

19-E-a 

43-E-a, '45-B-a. ' 

45-H-a 

33-C, 41, 42-1 

24- D . 

14-A-a . 

45-H-b 

13-A-b. 14-1 

45-B-a,i45-H-b. 45-1 

45-F-d 

46-A-b. 46-H-b 

45-H-b 

24-B-b, 25-1 

14-A-a, 24-1 

14-A-a . 

33-C 

33-C 

19-E-a , 

14-A-a , 

26-B-a 

26-A-a 

33-C 

33-C 

12-A-b . 

19-A-a 

33-C 

19-E-a . 

13-A-b, 14-1 

45-F-c, 46-C-a 
9-A. 9-B. 9-D, 44-1 
9-E . . . 
43-E-a . . . 
17. 25-A. 26-B-a 
45-H-a , . . 



, 38-A 



l-B, 19-1 



Pack 
320. 332 

145, 163, 190, 335 
175, 320, 340 
175 

145, 155. 163. 320, 335 
320, 332 
306, 320, 332 
124, 129, 190 
326 

320, 332 
305, 308 
346 
347 
346 
18 
26 



298 
296 
297 



297 
297 
297 

298 

154, 158, 165, 212, 317, 

321 

149 

157 

305. 320, 329, 332 

328 

250, 293, 297 

183 

133 

329 

129, 135, 157 

321, 329, 332, 335, 340, 

326 

335, 340 

181, 187, 190 

133. 181 

133 

250 

250 

157 

134 

191 

189, 279 

250 

250 

124 

157 

250 

157 

129, 135, 154, 250, 293, 324, 

326, 337 
112, 113, 316, 339 
114 
305 

149. 186, 191 
328 



Pueraria 



Pueraria h 

thunbergiana 
Punica granalu. 
Purslane . 
Pyracantha 






coccinea lalandi 

coccineo paucifiora 
Pyrethjum coccineum 

Toseum .... 
PyrosteRia venusta 
Pyrus (in variety) . 

angustifolia 

atrosan guinea . 

baccata 

coTonarta 

ftoTtbunda . 

kalliana parkmani 

ioensis .... 

toensis bechteli 

malus niedzweUkyana 

pulcheTTtma arnoldiana . 

pulcheTTima scheideckeri 

sargenti . 

sieboldi 

speciabiiis riversi . 

Pyxidanthera barbutata 



424 

Group 

45-L 

29-E-c. 34-C. 34-E. 46-G 
43- D. 43-E-b, 43-F-b. . 

30-A 

42-B-a 

20-B, 20-C. 33-E-b, 46-A-b 
12-A-a, 12-B, 16-C. 45-B-a, 45-G 
33-E-b .... 

45-1 

31-B-g, 3I-I . . 
43-C-a, 43-C-b, 45-L .... 
13-B-c, 14-A-a, 19-B. 30-A. 40-C-b 
19-E-a, 37-A 

20-A, 24-B-a. 25-A, 33-C, 37 

19-E-a, 37-A-a, 45-H 

19-E-a, 37-A-a 

19-E-a, 33-C, 41 

44-E-b . . . 

19-E-b, 33-C, 37-A-a 

33-C . . 

33-C . . 

33-C . . 

33-C . . 

33-C . . 

33-C. 37-A-a 

15-A, 29-F.'29-H. 33-E-b 



Reseda 



Pace 

332 

207. 261, 339 

304, 305, 306 

212 

297 

163, 253. 335 

124, 146, 321, 327 

253 

330 

225, 232 

303 332 

13l! 134, 155, 212, 291 

157, 276 

250 

162. 181. 186. 250. 276 

157, 276, 328 

157, 276 

157, 250, 293 

315 

157, 250, 276 

251 

251 

251 

251 

251 

251. 276 

251 

139, 208, 209. 253 



QuamocUt coccinea hederij 

pittnata . 
Queen's Wreath , 
QutTcus (in variety). 

acuta 

alba 

bicotoT . 

coccinea 

falcata . 

imbricaria . 

taurifolia 

lobata 

macTocarpa 

muhlenbergi 

nigra 

pagodaefolia 

palustris 

phellos . . . 

robur fastigiata 

robUT pedunculata 

TobuT pyramidalis 

rubra .... 

vetutina. 
virginiana . 
Quince .... 
Chinese Flowering 
Japanese 



32-F-b . . . 
32-F-b. 34-A . 
43-C-a . . . 
14-A-a. 30-B . 
4S-H-a. 45-K-a 
10-A. 22-C-a. 24-A-a 
24-A-a . . 
10-A, 22-C-a, 44-E-a, 
45-H-a . . 
45-C . . 
16-D-a, 43-B-a, 45-C, 
24-D . . 
25-A . . 
45-H-a . . 
38-C-a, 43-A. 43-B-a, 
45-H-a . . . 
10-B, 11-A. 24-A-a. 46 
43-B-a, 45-C. 45-K-a. 
16-A. 16-D-b-l 
45-E . . . 
14-A-b . . . 
10-A. 22-B. 24-B-a. 

44-C-b. 44-E-: 
10-A. 22-B . 
43-B-a. 45-C . 
39 ... 

45-F-c . . . 
12-A-b. 14-B. 19-A, 19-1, 22-C-l 

43-F-b 46-A-a, 46-E 



242 

242, 260 
303 

134, 213 
328. 331 
116, 174, 180 
180 

116, 174,315,321,337,338 
328 

321 

147, 301, 321. 328, 331 

183 

186 

328 

281, 301. 321. 328. 331 

328 

117. 119, 180. 322, 
301. 322. 331 
145. 147 

323 
135 
116. 173. 181. 189. 291. 314. 

315. 322 
116, 173 
301. 322 
285 
325 
124. 135. 154. 159. 174. 293. 

306. 335. 337 



Ragged Robin 

RanutKulus 

acris ftore plena .... 
Raphiolepis indica .... 
Rapid-growing trees and shrubs 
Raspberry, Flowering . 

Rocky Mountain Flowering . 

Thorn-leaved 

Reed. Common 

Giant 

Red-bud 



Red flowers 

Perennials . . . . 

Shrubs 

Red-hot Poker Plant 
Refine! lawn plantings 
Reseda odorata 



a. 45-D-d . 
23-B . . 
:. 28-A. 29-E-a. 37-j 
29-E-a. 37-A-a 



15-C. 
30-A 
15-D 
43-E- 
23-A, 
26-B- 
19-C, 
29-E- 
31-L- 
31-E 
11-A, 
22-A, 
44-G 

31-B . . 
19-E. 43-F-d 
31-B-k, 31-B-l, 31-D, 31-G, 

13-A 

29-1, 32-A. 32-B. 32-D 



140,: 

212 

140 

305,; 

176. 1 

191. 

156. : 

207 

234 

229 

119. 

285. 



222 

156. 307 

226. 227. 229, 231, 232, 330 

210, 240, 241 



Rhamnus 



Rhamnus (in variety) 
caroliniana . 

cathartica 

fran^ula (variety latifolia) 

Rheum officinale . 
Rhexia virginica . . . 
Rhododendron (in variety) 



arborescens 
arbutifolium 
azaleoides . 

calendulaceum . 
campanulatum . 
canadense . 



carolinianum . 

catawbiense 

calawbiense album 

catawbiense hybridum 

Dwarf . 

Early- flowering 

Serruiineui 

hirsutum 

Hybrid . 

japonicum 

kaempferi 

ledi folium 



mOTteri . 
myjtifolium 
Myrtle-leaved 
nudifl07um 
obtusum amoenum 
ponticum . 
punctatum . 
Rusty-leaved 



vaseyt 



Rhododendrons. Books 
Directions for planting of 
Ground cover for 
Ironclad list of 
Hybrids and Species 
Maintenance of . 

Rhodora .... 
canadensis . 

Rhodomyrtus tomentosus 

Rhodotypos kerrioides 

Rhubarb, Medicinal 
Rhus (in variety) 
canadensis . 



copallina 
cotinus . 

glabra . 

radicans 
toxicodendron . 
typhina. 

vernix . 
Ribbon-grass. 
Ribes (in variety) 

alpinum 

americanum 

aureum 



Rice Paper Plant 
River Bank Plantings 
Robinia (in variety) 

hispida 

pseudacacia 



pi^tudacacia bessoniana 
pseudacacia pyramidalis 



425 

Group 

U-B, 20-D-b . . . 
12-C, 27, 28-A . . 
12-A-b. 12-D, 12-E-b, 1: 

24-B-b. 25-B, 40-C-b, 

12-A-b 

31-L-c 

24-A-a 

13-B-b, 17. 19-G-b. 24-j! 
33-E-a. 39, 40-B. 42-B-a, 

33-E-a .... 
33-E-a, 45-F-d . . 
33-E-a, 37-A-a . . 

33-E-a 

33-E-a 

33-E-a 

33-E-a 

15-A, 33-E-a . . . 

33-E-a 

33-E-a 

19-C, 45-F-d, 46-H-b. 
15-A, 45-F-d . . . 

45-F-b 

15-A, 33-E-a . . . 

33-E-a 

19-C, 45-F-d, 46-H-b 

33-E;-a 

33-E-a 

33-E-a 

33-E-a 

33-E-a 

33-E-a, 45-F-b . . 

45-F-b 

33-E-a 

33-E-a 

45-F-d 

45-F-b 

15-A 

33-E-a 

33-E-a 

33-E-a 



29-H .... 
33-E .... 
33-E-a .... 

i3-B-a.'l5-B, ig-E-a, 29-H 
13-B-a, 15-B, 19-E-a, 29-H. 
43-D, 43-F-b . . . 
13-A-b, 19-B, 19-G-b, 20-1 

26-B-c. 27, 42-A-a . 

31-L-c 

17, 20-D-b . . . 
13-A-b, 13-B-b, 22-B. 

29-E-a. 37-B-a, 40-B 
13-A-b, 26-B-c, 29-E-a 
14-B, 19-C. 45-H-b . 
20-B, 20-C, 25-B, Z 

46-C-b, 46-F . . 

38-B 

38-B 

20-B, 20-C, 22-A. 25-B, 26- 

38-C-b, 44-C-a . 
38-B .... 
31-L-c, 32-G-b-l . 

17 

44-A-a .... 
25-B .... 
13-A-b, 19-B, 19-F-a, 22-1 

44-B-a . . . 

44-A-a. 44-B-a" '. 
43-F-a .... 

25 

42-C .... 

14-B, 26-B-c, 42-A-a, 45-F-a 

10-C. 11-A, 17, 19-C, 19-G-b. 

24-B-a, 24-D, 25-A, 26-B-a. 3 

42-B-b .... 
46-D .... 
14-A-b .... 



Robinia 



120. 166 

125. 193. 197 

124. 125. 126, 147, 181. 187, 

291. 296, 313 



131, 149, 159, 181. 193. 197. 
252.285,289,297, 317,illus 255, 

252 

252. 326 

252. 276 

252 

252 

252 

252 

139. 252 

252 

252 

155. 326. 340 

139. 326 

325 

139. 252 

252 

155. 326. 340 

252 

252 

252 

252 

252 

252. 325 

325 

252 

252 

326 

325 

139 

252 

252 

252 

343 

49 

209 

252 

252 

26.82 

130, 139, 157, 209 

130. 139, 157, 209 

304, 306 

129, 155, 159, 163, 191. 193. 
296 

235 

149. 166 

129. 131, 173, 181, 187, 207 
277. 290 

129, 191, 207 

135, 155, 329 

163, 187, 190. 207, 337, 338 



235, 244 

149 

313 

187 

129, 155, 158, 173, 276, 293, 

313 
276 
313 
306 
186 
298 

135, 191, 296, 324 
117, 119. 149, 155, 159. 177. 

181. 183, 186. 191. 276, 297 



Rock Cress 



Name 

Rock Cress . 

Alpine . . . 

Dwarf Alpine . 

Grecian Purple 

Purple 

Rock gardens, Japanese gar- 
dens, and wall gardens 

Books on 

Deciduous trees and shrubs 

Evergreens 

Perennials . 
Rock Purslane 
Rock Rose 



Laurel-leaved . 
Root pruning as aid 

planting . 
Rosa (in variety) 



426 



Rose 



alba. 

arkansana 
blanda . 



Carolina 

cinnamomea 

foetida, variety harisoni 

kugonis . 

laevigata 

lucida . 

lucida alba 

multiflora . 

nitida 

polyantha (in variety) 

jubiginosa . 

Tubiginosa kybtida 

Tutnijotia . 

rugosa .... 



Group 

24-E. 29-F, 31-B-b, 27-A-c. 45- J 
29-A. 29-F, 31-B-b 
15<: .... 
3I-B-a .... 
29-F. 33-E-b . . 



15 



15-B .... 
15-A .... 
15-C .... 
24-E .... 
15-C. 28-B. 29-B. 

33-E-b. 45-1 . . 
45-F-c .... 



12-E-d, 34-A, 34-D, 

45-G. . . . 
19-G-b .... 



seUtera .... 

spinosissima 

spinosissima attaica . 

wichuraiana 
Rosmarinus ojficinalis . 
Rosemary .... 

Wild 



Best hybrid tea roses. . 

Books on 

Climbing roses. Lists of best 
Ground covers for 
Hardiest as tested in Central 
Ontario and Maine 

Crimson and red 

Moss. 

Pink . . 

White . . 

Yellow . . 
Rose (in variety) 



Rose Acacia . 
Rose Apple . 
Rose Bay 
Rose Box 

Franchet's 

Himalayan 

Silver-leaved . 
Rose, Arkansas . 

Carolina 

Cherokee . 

Climbing . 

Cirinamon . 

Father Hugo's 

Fairy 

Glossy . 

Harison's Yellow 

Japanese . 



44-B- 

12-B, 20-B. 20-C. 20 
46-C-b . . . 

18-B, 20-D-b. 26-B-c 

19-B .... 

19-F-b. 31-H . . 

19-F-b .... 

43-C-a .... 

20-D-b, 21, 26-A-c. 46-C 

19-G-b, 21 . . . 

19-G-b, 20-B, 20-C, 20- 

13-B-a, 20-D-b. 26-B-c 

12-B .... 

20-B. 20-D-b. 37-B-a 

37-B-a .... 

20-B, 20-D-b . . 

12-A-b, 12-E-d, 17, 20 
24-B-b, 25-B, 26-A-c 
44-A-a. 45.B-b, 45 

18-B. 20-D-b, 26-A-c. 

13-A-a, 19-G-b. 20-D 

18-B. 29-E-a . . 

18-B, 20-D-b, 29-E 

37-B-b, 45-F-a . 

37-B-b, 45-F-a . 

18-A, 33-E-b . . 

33-D .... 

33-D-c .... 



D, 37-A-a, 
b, 43-F-c. 43-F. 
45-F-a 



45-G 



33-D-b . . . 
33-D-b-l . . . 
33-D-b-5 . . . 
33-B-b-2 . . . 
33-D-b-3 . . . 
33-D-b-4 . . . 
13-B-b, 19-C, 19-E-b, 
43-C-a. 43-F-a. 43-F 
14-B. 26-B-c, 42-A-a, 
43-D .... 
43-E-a, 43-F-a 
43-D, 43-F-a, 43-F-b, 
45-G, 46-C-a, 46-H-b 
45-F-d, 45-G, 46-C-a 
43-D. 43-F-a . . 

44-B-a 

18-B. 20-D-b. 26-B-c 
43-C-a . . 
34-A. 34-D 
19-B . . 
19-F-b . . 

20-D-b.'21.' 26-A-c. 46-C-b 

19-F-b, 31-H .... 

12-A-b, 12-E-d. 17. 20-B. 20-C. 20-D 
24-B-b. 25-B. 26-A-c. 40-B, 43-E 
44-A-a. 45-B-b. 45-F-a. 46-A-a . 

19-G-b, 20-B. 20-C, 20-D-b. 26-B-c 

12-B, 20-B. 20-C, 20-D-b. 21, 26-B-c, 
46-C-b . . 

18-B. 20-D-b. 29-E-c 



C, 20-D 
B, 43-E 
A-a 
43-C 
26-B-c 



Page 

184, 208, 222, 276, 331 

203. 208. 223 

139 

222 

208, 252 



138 
139 
184 
140, 197, 204, 223. 233. 253. 

330 
325 

41. illus. 34 

126, 260, 261, 276, 303, 327 



124, 163, 164, 166, 170. 191, 

337 
151. 166, 191 
155 

158.231 
158 
303 

166, 170, 190, 337 
159, 170 

159. 163, 164. 166. 191 
130. 166, 191 
124 

163, 166, 277 
277 

163, 166 
124, 126, 149, 163, 164, 166, 

181, 187, 190, 290, 305, 313, 

321, 324. 335 
151, 166, 190, 207, 303 
129, 159, 166, 191 
151, 207 
151, 166, 207 
277, 324 
277, 324 
151, 252 
251 
251 
346 
251 
210 

251 
251 
251 



131, 156, 157, 261. 276. 285, 

303, 306. 307 
135. 191. 296. 324 
304 

305.307 
304. 306. 327. 
327, 336, 340 
326, 327, 336 
304, 306 
314 

151, 166, 191 
303 

260, 261 
155 
158 
124 
166, 170, 190, 337 

158. 231 

124, 126. 149, 163. 164. 166, 
181. 187. 190. 290. 305. 313. 
321, 324, 335 

159, 163. 164. 166. 191 

124. 163, 164, 166, 170. 191, 

151, 166, 207 



Rose 


427 






Sapon, 


ana 


Name 


Group Page 




Rose, Native .... 


12-E-d. 45-G 126, 327 




Prairie 


18-B. 20-D-b, 26-A-c. 29-E-a, 43-C-a 


151, 166, 190, 207, 303 




Protection of roses . , 




104 




Pruning of roses . . . 






27 




Red -leaved .... 


20-B, 26-D-b '.'.'.'. '. 




163, 166 




Scotch 


13-A-a, 18-B, 19-G-b, 20-D-b, 


26-B-c 


129, 151, 159, 166, 191, 2( 


)7 




29-E-a 




Shining-leaved . . . 


13-B-a, 20-D-b, 26-B-c . . 




130, 166, 191 




Tausendschoen 


33-D-a 




251 




White-flowered . . 


19-G-b 




159 




White-flowered Glossy . 


19-G-b, 21 




159, 170 




Rose gardens. Fertilizer for 






98 




Rose of Sharon .... 


il-B, 12-D. l'4-B, l'6-A, l'9-E 


, 19-1 


120, 125, 135, 144, 156, 


159. 




26-B-c, 40-B, 40-C-a, 42-A-b 


, 44-G 


191, 289, 291, 297. 316. 


321, 




45-B-b, 45-E .... 




323 




Blue 


19-H 






159 




Royal Poinciana. . . . 


43-B-b 






302 




Rubber Tree .... 


43-B-b 






302 




Rubber. Wild . ... 


43-J-a 






310 




Rubus (in variety) . 


20-D-a, 30-A 






166, 212 




crataegifolius .... 


29-E-a 






207 




deliciosus 


19-C. 29-E-a, 37-A-a . . 






156, 207, 276 




dumetOTum 


29-E-a 






207 




odoratus 


26-B-c, 28-A, 29-E-a, 37-A-a, 44 


-B- 


a 


191, 197. 207. 276, 314 




Rudbeckia (in variety) . 


31-B-h, 31-1, 31-K-a . . . 






226, 232, 233 




laciniata 


31-E 

31-E, 31-F 






230 
230 




Rumex acetosella 


30-B 






213 




Rush, Flowering 


31-L-b 






234 




Russelia jurtcea .... 


43-1 






310 




Rynchospora alba 


24-A-a 






180 




Sabal palmetto .... 


43-B-b 302 




Sage 


45-1 . . . 








330 




Mammoth 


37-B-b . . . 








277 




Meadow 


24-E . . . 








184 




Scarlet 


32-E, 32-G-b-2, 3E 


-B-'b '. '. 






242, 244. 266. 




Wormwood .... 


38-C-a . . . 








280 




Saeittaria montevidensis . 


31-L-b . . . 








234 




Salal 


46-B-b, 46-E . 








336, 337 




Salix (in variety) 


10-C 11-A 12-C 


23-A, 24-A-J 


. 3 


0-A 


117. 119, 125, 177, 180, 


212, 


44-A-b . . 








313 




alba 


21. 26-A-a . . 








170. 189 




babylonica 


17 ... . 








149 




blanda 


14-A-a . . . 








134 




caprea 


19-A. 19-F-a, 41 








154. 158. 293 




discolor 


19-F-a . . . 
25-B . . . 








158 

187 




lucida 


26-A-a . . . 








189 




niera 


38-C-b . . . 








281 




pentandra 


16-D-a, 26-B-a 








147. 191 




tTistis 


24-B-b . . . 








181 




vitellina 


25-A . . . 








186 




vitellina aurea 


21. 26-B-a . . 








170. 191 




vitellina bTttzensis 


14-A-a, 21 . . 








134, 170 




SalpiRlossis sinuata . 


32-A. 32-E, 32-H- 


a . . . 






240, 242, 246 




Salt Tree 


24-D, 45-F-c . 








183, 326 




Salvia (in variety) . . . 


15-1 . . . 








330 






24-E . . . 








184 




azurea gTandiflora 


31-B-i . . . 








226 




Blue ..... 


24-E. 31-B-i . 








184,226 




Rreggi 


45-F-a . . . 








324 




greggi alba 


45-F-a . . . 








324 






45-F-a . . . 








324 




o/ficinalis 


37-B-b . . . 








277 




pratensis 


24-E . . . 








184 




splendens 

White Mexican . . . 


32-E. 32-G-b-2, 3E 


-B-'b ". '. 






242, 244, 266 




45-F-a . . . 








324 




Sambuciis (in variety) . 


20-D-a, 30-A . 








166, 212 






13-B-c 17 19-C, 19-G-b, 20-B 


2 


3-B 


131. 149. 156, 159, 163, 


177, 




26-A-c. 42-A-a. 46-E . . 






190. 297. 338 




canadensis aurea . 


14-B 

13-B-c, 19-B, 19-G-b, 20-B . 






135 

131. 155. 159. 163 




Sandwort 


15-C, 24-E 






139. 184 




Tufted 


29-B 






204 




Sandy soils. Plants for . 


24-B 






181 




Sanguinaria canadensis 


28-B. 29-C, 31-B-b, 31-C-b, 40- 


A 




198. 205. 223, 228, 289 




Sanguisorba minor 


37-B-b 






277 




Santolina chamaccyparissus 


24-E, 29-B, 32-G-b-l, 37-B-b 






184, 205, 244. 277 




Sapium sebiferum . . . 


45-H-a 






329 






15-C, 29-A, 31-B- 


:. 31-C-b . 






140. 204, 223, 228 





Sarracenia 



428 

Group 



Sempervivum 



Sarracenia drummondi 




. 31-L-c 


235 


purpurea 

Sassafras, Common . 


24-A-a 


180 


22-A, 44-C-a 


173, 314 


officinale 


22-A, 44-C-a 


173, 314 


Savin. Dwarf .... 


26-A-b 


190 


Tamarisk-leaved . 


15-A, 18-A 


138, 151 


Saxi/raEa (in variety) . 


30-A, 31M-a, 45-J 


212, 235, 331 


cordijfolia 


15-C, 31-B-a, 46-B-a .... 


140, 222, 336 


sarmentosa .... 


35-B-a 


265 


sirainiensis .... 


45-A-b 


320 


Saxifrage 


15-C, 31-B-a. 31-M-a. 46-B-a . . 


140, 222, 235, 336 


Early-blooming . 


45-A-b 


320 


Scabiosa atropurpurea . 


32-A 


240 


caucasica 


31-B-e, 31-1 


224. 232 


Giant 


31-B-h 


225 


^raminifolia .... 


31-D 


229 


Grass-leaved .... 


31-D 


229 


sylvatica 


31-D 


229 


Woodland 


31-D 


229 


Scarlet Bush .... 


43-D, 43-F-c. 43-F-d, 43-H . . . 


304, 307, 308 


Scented Flowers . . 




275 


Schizanthus pinnatus 


32-A, 32-E: '.'.'.'.'.'.'. 


240. 242 


SchizophraRtna hydraneeoides 


34-B 


260 


Sciadopitys verticillata . 


9-A, 9-B, 14-A-a, 16-A, 45-E . . 


112, 113, 134. 145, 323 


Scilla campanulala . . . 


36-B 


271 


sibirica 


36-A 


270 


Scirpus lacustris 


31-L-b 


234 


tabernaetnontanus zebrinus 


31-L-b 


234 


Scotch Broom .... 


19-F-a, 24-B-b, 26-B-c, 45-F-e . . 


157, 181, 191, 325 


Screen plantings. Lists tor 


12-C, 23 


125. 176 


Sea Holly, Amethyst 


24-E, 31-B-e, 45-1 


184, 224, 330 


Sea Lavender, Broad-leaved 


31-B-e, 31-B-i 


224. 226 


Sea Poppy 


24-E 


184 


Seaside planting. Trees and 






shrubs for. 


26 


188. illus. 254 


Hardy in less severe seasid 






exposures . . . 


26-B 


190 


Conifers .... 


26-B-b 


191 


Deciduous trees 


26-B-a 


191 


Shrubs 


26-B-c 


191 


Hardy under exposure 






North Atlantic Coast 


26-A 


189 


Conifers .... 


26-A-b 


190 


Deciduous trees 




26-A-a 


189 


Shrubs . 




26-A-c 


190 


Sedge 

Variegated Sweet 




30-B, 31-L-b 


212, 234 




31-L-b 


234 


Sedum (in variety) . 




24-E, 31-B-j. 31-B-k, 31-M-a, 45-J 


184, 226, 235, 331 


acre . , . , 




15-C, 29-F, 29-G 


140, 208. 209 


album . 






15-C, 29-B 

45-A-a 


140. 205 
319 


sexanRutare 






15-C, 29-G 


140. 209 


spectabile . 






15-C 


140 


spurium 






29-B, 29-C 


205 


sloloni^erum 






29-B 


205 


Seeding annuals 








384 


Seeding seasons (for lawns) 




13. 16, iUus. 14 


Select list of horticultura 






varieties 


33 


249 


Evergreens, Broad-leaved 


33-E 


252 


Other broad-leaved ever 






greens 


33-E-b 


252 


Rhododendrons and azalea 


33-E-a 


252 


Lilacs 


33-A 


249 


Lilies for 


33-F 


253 


Calcareous soil . . . 


33-F-d 


257 


Clay soil .... 


33-F-h 


257 


Easy culture in garden soi 


33-F.b 


256 


Moist and boggy locations 


33-F-c 


256 


Open sun .... 


33-F-e 


257 


Sandy or dry soils 




33-F-g 


257 


Shady locations 




33-F-i 


257 


Undergrowth . 




33-F-t 


257 


Lily table . . . 




33-F-a 


254 


Peonies. . . . 




33-B 


250 


Roses .... 




33-D 


251 


Trees, Small Flowering . 


33-C 


250 


Sempervivum (in variety) 


24-E, 29-G 


184,209 


arachnoideum .... 


29-F, 32-G-a-l 


208. 243 


calcareum 


32-G-a-l 


243 


tectorum 






32-G-a-l 


243 



Senecio 



429 



Snow Wreath 



Senecio clivorum 


31-C-a. 31-L-c 


227, 235 


cineraria 


32-G-b-l 


244 


scandens 


35-B.a 


265 


Senna, Argentin 


e . . . . 45-F-c. 45-K-b 


325, 332 


Scorpion . 


45-A-b. 45-F-a 


319, 323 


Seuerinia buxifoi 


a . . . . 43-E-a. 43-H 


305, 308 


Shad-bush 


13-B-c. 17, I9-A, 20-D-a. 22-B,26-B-a 


131, 149, 154. 165, 173, 191, 




27. 39, 41 


193, 285, 293 


Shade-loving pla 


nts ... 27 


192 


Shade of woodla 


nd. Plants for. 28 


196 


Shaded locations 


. Plants for . 27 


192 


Shasta Daisy. 


31-B-f, 31-F, 31-1. 31-K-c . . . 


225, 230, 232, 234 


Large . , 


31-D 


229 


Sheep Berry . 


13-A-c. 19-C. 26-B-c. 27 . . . 


130, 156, 191, 193 


Shepherdia argcn 


lea . . . . 12-E-b. 12-E-d 


126 


canadensis . 


12-E-b. 12E-d. 25-B, 26-A-c, 29-E-a 


126, 187, 190, 207 


Shooting Star 


15-C 


140 


Shore Grape . 


43-J-a 


310 


Shore Planting 


(See Lake, 




River, or 


Seaside) 




Short ia . , 


.... 15-A. 29-H, 33-E-b, 45-A-b. 4.S-J . 


139, 209. 253, 320. 331 


galacifolia . 


.... 15-A, 29-H, 33-E-g, 45-A-b, 45-J . 


139, 209, 253. 320, 331 


Shrubs for acce 


nt and speci- 




mens . 


.... 14-B 


135 


For forcir 


g in water in 




early spri 


ig . . . . 41 


292 


Fast-grow 


ng ... 23-B 


177 


Sidalcea (in vari 


5ty) . . . 31-B-f, 31-C-a 


225, 228 


Candida . 


.... 31-B-f, 31-C-a 


225, 228 


Silene alpestris 


.... 29-F 


208 


maritima . 


.... 15-C 


140 


pennsylvanica 


.... 15-C 


140 


schaita . 


.... 15-C 


140 


Silk Oak . . 


.... 43-A, 43-B-b 


301. 302 


Silk Vine . . 


.... 25-C. 29-E-c, 34-C. 34-E. 45-L . . 


187. 207. 261, 333 


Silver Bell . 


14-B. 19-B. 19-G-a 24-C-b, 42-B-a 

45-H-a 


135. 155, 158, 182, 297. 328 


Silver Bell Tree 


44-G 


316 


Silver Berry . 


.... 25-B 


187 


Silver Vine . 


.... 24-B-c, 24-C-a. 25-C. 34-C, 34-D, 34-E 


182, 183, 187, 260, 261 


Chinese . 


.... 45-L 


332 


Dark-leaved 


.... 25-C, 34-A 


187, 260 


Skimmia japonic 


3 . . . . 45-F-d 


326 


Japanese . 


.... 45-F-d 


326 


Small garden are 


as. Plants for. 31-E 


229 


Sniitacina racemo 


sa . . . . 31-C-a 


228 


Smilax 


.... 30-A. 43-C-a 


212, 303 


Florida . 


.... 45-L 


333 


hispida 


.... 22-C-b-2 


175 


lanceolata . 


.... 45-L 


333 


Totundi/olia 


.... 25-C 


187 


Smoke Bush . 


.... 14-B. 19-C. 45-H-b 


135, 155, 329 


Snakeroot 


.... 28-B, 31-C-a, 45-J 


197, 227, 331 


Large Button 


.... 24-E 


184 


Mottled 


.... 45-A-a 


319 


Virginia 


.... 45-A-a 


319 


White . . 


.... 31-B-j, 31-E, 31-L-c, 45-1 . . . 


226, 230, 235, 330 


Snapdragon . 


.... 31-J, 32-A. 32-E, 32-H-b, 35-A-a 


233, 240, 242, 246, 264, 285, 




35-A-b, 39, 45-1 


330 


Half-dwarf. 


.... 32-H-a 


246 


Sneezeweed . 


.... 31-K-c. 45-1 


234, 330 


Tall . . 


.... 31-E. 31-L-c 


230. 235 


Yellow . . 


.... 31-B-l 


227 


Snowball . 


.... 39 


285 


Chinese 


.... 22-C-b-I 


175 


Japanese . 


. . . . 40-B. 40-C-b 


290. 291. illus. 206 


Pink . . 


.... 45-F-d 


326 


Single Japanes 


e . . . . 13-A-b. 19-B 


129. 155 


Snowberry 


.... 11-B. 12-E-d. 12-E-e. 13-A-a. 13-B-a 


120. 126. 129. 130. 149. 163, 




17, 20-B. 20-D-a, 20-D-b, 27, 42-A-b 


166,192,297,324,337,illus.238 




45-F-a, 46-C-b 




Evergreen . 


.... 33-E-b 


252 


Snow Bush . 


.... 43-E-a 


305 


Snow Creeper 


.... 43-C-a 


303 


Snowdrop 


.... 36-E-a 


274 


Common . 


.... 45-J 


331 


Giant . . 


.... 36-A 


270 


Snowflake 


.... 36-B 


271 


Summer 


.... 31-L-c 


235 


Snow Garland. H 


ybrid . . . 13-A-a. 19-A. 19-B, 19-G-a. 41, 42-A-a 


129, 154, 155, 158, 293, 297 


Snow-in-summer 


.... 15-C. 24-E, 29-B, 29-F, 29-G, 31-B-b. 


139, 184, 204, 208, 209, 223, 




31-M-a 


235 


Snow Wreath 


.... 45-F-c 


326 



Soapwort 



430 



Specimen Trees 



Soapwort. Rock 

Soil conditions, Various types 



Group 
15-C. 29-A, 31-B-c. Sl-C-b 



Page 
140. 204. 223. 228 





24-D 




B<^Ky and peaty soils 


24-A 


... 179 


24-A-a 


. . . 180 


Peaty situations 


24-A-b 


... 181 




24-C 


. . . 182 




24-C-b 


. . . 182 


Trees for .... 


24-C-a 


. . . 182 


Vines for .... 


24-C-c 


... 183 




24-E 


. . . 183 


Li^ht and sandy soils . 


24-B 


... 181 




24-B-b 


. . . 181 


Trees for .... 


24-B-a 


. . . 181 


Vines for .... 


24-B-c 


... 182 


Solandra guttata .... 


43-C-a 


. . . ^03 




43-J-c 


. . 311 


dulcamara 


34-D 


. . . 261 


jasminoides .... 


35-A-b, 35-B-a .... 


... 265 


jasminoides grandiflorum . 


45-L 


... 333 




43-C-a 


. . . 303 




43-C-a . 


303 


Solidago (in variety) . . 


31-B-l. 31-E. 45-J . . . 


. . . 227,229,528 


aiguta 


28-B 


... 198 




28-B 




canadensis 


31-C-a, 38-C-a . . . . 


. . . 228, 281 


ntRlecta 


24-A-a 


... 180 


speciosa 


28-B 


. . . 198 


Solomon's Seal .... 


29-C. 31-C-b. 39 . . . . 


. . . 205. 228, 285 


Sophora 


42-C 


... 298 


Sophora fin variety) 


13-A-b. 24-B-b .... 


. . . 129. 182 


japomca 


11-A. 19-F-b. 45-H-a, 45-K-a 


. . . 119,158.329,331 


vtctifolia 


13-A-b, 24-B-b . . . . 


. . . 129. 182 


Sorbajta aiborea .... 


42-A-b 


... 297 


arborea glabrata . 


19-D, 19-1 


... 156, 159 


soTbifolia 


25-B, 29-E-a 


. . . 187. 207 


Sorbus (in variety) . 


20-D-b. 42-C 


... 166. 298 


amertcana 


25-A. 44-E-b 


... 186. 315 


aucuparia 


10-C. 20-B 






14-A-b 


. . 135 


qiteTCiJolia 

Sorrel. Sheep 


14-A-a. 16-D-b-l .... 


. . . 134, 147 


30-B 


. . . 213 


Wood 


30-A 


. . . 212 


Sour Gum 


39 


. . . 285 


Sourwood 


14-A-a, 19-D. 22-A. 45-H-a . 


. . . 133, 156. 173, 328 


South Atlantic States. Plant 






for 


45 


318 


Border planting 


45-F 


. . . 332 


Shrubs. Low-growing de 






ciduous , . . . 


45-F-a 




Shrubs, Low-growing ever 






green 


45-F-b 


... 324 


Shrubs, Medium-growing 






deciduous 


45-F-c 


... 325 


Shrubs, Medium -growing 






evergreen. 


45-F-d 


... 326 


Evergreens .... 


45-D 


. . . 322 


Formal effects. 


45-E 


. . . 322 


Fruit valuable for colou 






effects 


45-G 


. . . 327 


Ground cover .... 


45-A 


. . . 319 


Dry places . . . . 


45-A-b 


... 319 


Moist places . . . . 


45-A-a 




Hedges 


45-B 


. . . 320 




45-B-a 


320 


Not holding leavesin winter 


45-B-b 




Not used in North . . . 


45-K 


. . 331 




45-K-b 




Trees 


45-K-a 




Perennials for gardens anc 






cut flowers . . . . 


45-1 




Perennials for naturalizing in 






wild gardens . . . . 


45-J 


. . . 330 


Specimens 


45-H 




Shrubs 


45-H-b 


329 


Trees 


45-H-a 




Street planting . . . . 


45-C 




Vines 


45-L 


. . . 332 


Southernwood 


24-E, 31-B-f. 31-B-j. 37-A-c, 3' 


-B-b . 184, 224, 226. 276, 277 






29 


Spatter-docK 


43-1 


310 


Specimen trees and shrubs 


14 


. . . 132.iUus. 110. lU 



Speedwell 



Speedwell . 

Creeping . 
Hoary . 

Japanese , 

Rock . . . 
Spike-flowered 

Spice Bush , 

Spiderwort . 

Common . 
Spikenard, American 

False 
Spindle Tree . 

Bunge's 

European . 

Half-evergreen 

Japanese . 
Spiraea (in variety) . 

ar^uta . 

billardi 

bumalda anthony i 

callosa alba 

douglasi 

japonica alba . 

pTunifoiia . 

prunifolia flore plena . 

salicifolia . 

sorbijolia . 

tomentosa . 

vanhouttei . 



veitchi . 
Spirea 
Billard's 



Blu 



Ash 



Chinese Mountain 

Crimson 

David's 

Douglas 

Dwarf White . 

Fortune's White 

Mountain Ash-leaved 

Sorb-leaved 

Veitch's . . 
Spleenwort, Ebony 

Maidenhair 
Spraying . . . 
SpTckelia foTmosissima 
Spring Beauty 
Spring- flowering plants 
Spruce 

Alcock's 

Black . . 

Black Hills 

Colorado . 

Columnar Norway 

Compact Norway. 

Cone-shaped Norway 

Dwarf Blue . 

Dwarf Norway 

Dwarf Oriental 

Dwarf Pyramidal 

Engelmann's . 

Globe Douglas 

Gregory's Dwarf : 

Koster's Blue . 

Norway 

Oriental 

Pyramidal Norway 
Red. . . . 
Servian . 
Sitka . . . 
Tablet-shaped . 
White . . . 

Spurge, Carolina . 
Flowering . 
Japanese . 



. 44-B-a 

A-b, 17. 19-B. 

38-C-a, 42- 



31- 



431 

Group 

29-F, 30-A, 31-1. 45-1 
15-C, 29-A, 29-G . . 
15-C. 31-B-a . . . 

31-B-e 

29-F 

19-A. 19-F-a, 26-D-a. 27, 
37-B-a.39, 40-B. 42-A- 
31-B-a. 31-C-a .' . 

31-D 

28-B 

31-C-a 

20-D-b .... 
13-A-c, 45-G . . . 
13-A-c. 14-B. 20-B. 22-C- 
22-C-b-l . . 
13-A-b . . . 
11-B . . . 
13-A-a, 19-A, 19-B. 19-G 
19-D. 42-A-a . . . 
12-B, 13-A-a. 19-D, 19-E 
12-B, 19-D . . . 

42-A-b 

13-A-a 

13-A-b, 19-G-b, 42-A-a, ' 

19-C. 26-A-c, 29-E-a '. 

44-B-a 

19-E-b, 25-B, 29-E-i 

12-D, 12-E-c, 12-E-. 
19-G-a, 19-1, 24-B-b 
A-a, 45-F-c, 46-C-a 

13-A-b 

11-B 

19-D, 42-A-a . . . 

13-A-a. 16-C, 19-H, 
45-F-a. 45-H-b . . 

19-D. 19-1, 42-A-b . 

12-B. 13-A-a, 19-D. 19-E 

31-B-g, 31-L-c. . . 

42-A-b 

13-A-a 

12-B. 19-D. . . . 

25-B. 29-E-a . . . 

44-B-a 

13-A-b 

29-D-a .... 

29-D-a 



36-E-b .... 

31-C-b .... 

19-A, 31-B. . . 

12-C. 14-A-a, 30-A, 39, 42-! 

9-A. 9-B . . . . 

9-C 

44-A-a. ■44-A-b, 44-F ' 

9-A, 11-A .... 

14-A-b, 16-D-b-2 . . 

9-E 

9-E 

9-E 

9-E. 18-A '.'.'.'. 

9-E 

9-E 

9-A. 9-B, 39. 4'6-H-a '. 
9-E 

9-E, 15-A, iS-A '. 
9-B. 26- A-b, 44-F. . 
9-A, 9-B, 12-A-a, 16-B-a, 
25-A, 44-A-a, 44-F, 46-J 

16-B-a 

14-A-b, 16-A, 16-D-b-2, ' 

26-A-b 

9-A, 9-B, 16-D-b-2 . 

46-H-a 

9-E 

9-A, 9-B, 24-A-a. 25-A, 26-A-b, 27, 44-F 

29-C 

15-C 

15-A, 15-C, 29-B. 29-C. 29-E-b. 29-H, 
33-E-b, 46-B-a, 46-B-b .... 



Spurge 



l-C-a. 



208, 212, 232. 330 

140, 204, 209 

140, 222 

224 

208 

224 

1.54, 157. 165, 193, 196, 212. 

277. 285, 289, 296, 316, 325 
222. 228 
229 
197 
228 
166 

129, 327 

129. 135, 163. 174 
174 
129 
120 

129, 154. 155, 158, 293. 297 
156 297 
124! 129. 156, 157, 159. 324 

124, 156 
297 

129 

129, 159, 297, 326 

154 

156. 190, 207 
314 

157, 187, 207, 297, 314 

125, 126, 129, 149, 155, 158, 
159, 182, 281, 297, 326, 337 

129 
120 

128.' 146. 159. 226, 233, 329 

156, 159, 297 

124, 129, 156, 157, 159, 324 

225, 234 

297 

129 

124. 156 
187. 207 
314 
129 
206 
206 

75 
274 
228 
154, 222 

125, 133, 212, 285, 298, illus. Ill 

111. 112 
113 
313, 316 

112, 119 
135, 147 
114 

114 
114 

114, 151 
114 
114 

111, 112,284,339 
114 

114, 138, 151 

112, 190. 316 

112, 124, 145, 177, 182, 186, 

313, 316, 335 
145 

135, 145, 147, 314 
190 



114 

111, 112, 180, 186, 190, 193, 

316 
205 
140 
138, 140, 204, 205, 207, 209, 

253, 336, iUus. 270 



Squill 



432 



Name 



Squill .... 

Siberian 
Stachys lanata 
Stagger Bush 
StapkyUa 

pinnala . 

trijotia . 
Star of Bethlehem 
Starwort . 
Statice latifolia . 
Steeple Bush . 
Slellaiia holoslea 

media . 
Stenantkium robustum 
Stenolobium stans, variety 

bucifolia . 
Stephanandra 

flexuostt 
Sterculia platanifolic 
Stevia 

Dwarf . 

serrala nana 
Stewarlia penlagyna 
Sticktight . . 
Siipa spartea 
Stock, Ten Weeks 

Brompton . 

Common . 
Stokesia cyanea 
St. John's Wort . 

Buckley's . 

Bushy . 

Hybrid . . 

Kalm's. . . 

Large-flowered 

Mountain . 

Naked-flowered 

Shrubby 
Stone, Vines to grow 
Stone-breaker 
Stonecrop (in variety) 

Brilliant . . 

Dark Green . 

Mossy . 

Nevius" 

Purple . 

Spreading . 
' V?hite . . . 
Storax, American 

Broad-leaved . 

Japanese . 
Strawberry Bush 

Running . 
Strawberry Shrub 



Strawberry Tree . 
Strawberry, Wild 

Yellow . . . 
Straw Flower 
Street and avenue 
Trees for 

Hardy under all condit 

Special conditions 

Undesirable trees for 
Slyrax americana 

japonica 

obassia .... 
Sumac .... 

Fragrant . 



Staghom . 



Single Annual .... 
Sunny exposures, Perennials for 



ions 
streets 



-B-b, 



. 28-A, 
3i-M-b 



36-B . . . 
36-A . . . 
24-E . . . 
45-F-a . . . 
42-B-a . . . 
20-A, 45-H-b . 
13-B-c, 20-A, 20- 
36-B . . . 
15-C, 29-A, 31 
31-B-e, 31-B-i 
13-B-a, 31-L-c 
15-C, 29-A, 31-B-b 
30-A, 30-B 
31-E . 



43-F-c .... 
13-A-a, 40-B, 42-A-a 
13-A-a, 40-B, 42-A-a, 
45-H-a, 45-K-a 
32-G-b-l . . 
35-B-b . . . 
35-B-b . . . 
14-B, 19-D, 19-G-b, 45-H-b 
30-B .... 
38-B .... 
32-H-a .... 
32-H-b . . . 
32-A, 32-E, 32-H-a 
15-C, 31-B-e, 31-1 
19-D. 10-F-b . . 
22-C-b-l . . . 
24-A-a .... 
13-A-a, 22-C-b-l . 
26-B-c, 28-B . . 
13-B-a, 33-E-b, 45-F- 
45-F-a .... 
45-F-a .... 
45-F-a .... 
34-B .... 
30-A, 45-J . . . 
24-E, 31-B-j, 31-B-k, 
15-C .... 
15-C. 29-G. . . 
15-C, 29-F, 29-G . 
45-A-a .... 
29-B .... 
29-B, 29-C. . . 
15-C. 29-B. . . 
45-F-c . . . 
45-F-c . . . 
45-F-c, 45-H-b 
11-B, 13-B-b. 14-B, 20-B 
15-B, 18-B. 28-B. 29-C 



13-B-b, 24-C-b, 
43-F-d, 45-F 
45-G, 45-K-b 
45-J . . 
45-A-b . . 
32-A . . 

10 . . . 

10-A . . 

10-B . . 

10-C . . 

45-F-c . . 

45-F-c, 45-H-b 

45-F-c . . 

17, 20-D-b, 39 

13-A-b. 13-B-b, 22-B, 

29-E-a. 37-B-a, 40-B 
13-A-b, 26-B-c. 29-E-a 
20-B. 20-C, 25-B, 2 

46-C-b, 46-F . . 
20-B, 20-C. 22-A. 25-B, 

38-C-b. 44-C-a . . 
19-C, 31-B. . . . 
19-D, 19-H, 37-A-a, 

4.5-H-b .... 

24-E 

31-B-h, 31-C-a, 31-E, 

31-M-b, 38-C-a, 45-1 

32-A 

29-G 



26-A-c, 
'40-B, 



E-a, 
29-E-a; 

45^F-c, 

ai-k-a^ 



Sunny Exposures 



Page 

271 

270 

183 

324 

297 

162, 329 

131, 162, 163, 197,329 

271 

140, 204, 223, 235 

224, 226 

130.235 

140, 204, 223 

212, 213 

230 

307 

129, 290, 297, 324. 338 

129, 290, 297, 324, 338 
329, 331 

244 

266 

266 

135, 156, 159, 329 

212 

280 

246 

246 

240, 242, 246 

140. 224, 232 

156. 158, illus. 226 

175 

180 

128. 175 
191, 197 

130, 253, 324 
324 

324 

324 

260 

212 331 

184] 226, 235, 331, illus. 126 

140 

140, 209 

140, 208, 209 

319 

205 

205 

140, 205 

326 

326 

326, 329 

120, 131, 135, 163 
139, 151. 197. 205 
130. 182, 193. 196, 276, 289. 
307, 325, 337 

327, 332 
331 
319 
240 

115 

116 

117 

117 

326 

326. 329 

326 

149. 166. 285 

129, 131, 173, 181, 187,207, 277 



163, 173. 187, 190, 207, 281, 
314 

155, 224 

156, 159, 276, 289, 325 



226. 227, 230, 232, 233, 235, 

280,330 
240 



Supple-jack 



433 



Thalia 



Name 


Group 


Page 




Supple-jack 


45-L 


332 




Surinam Cherry . . . 


43-D, 43-E-a 


304,305 




Swainsona . . . , . 


35-A-a 


264 




Swainsona galegifolia 


35-A-a 


264 




Swamp-pink 


24-A-a, 29-H, 31-L-c. 45-A-a . . 


180. 209. 235. 319 




Sweet Gum 


10-B, 14-A-a, 20-A, 22-A, 39. 40-B 


117. 133. 162, 173. 285, 


289, 




40-C-b, 43-B-a, 43-J-a, 45-C, 45-H-a 


291, 301, 310, 321, 328 




Sweet Leaf, Japanese . 


20-B 


163 




Sweet Pea 


32-A, 32-C 


240, 241 




Hardy 


31-D, 34-A 


229. 260 




Sweet Rocket .... 


31-C-a, 37-A-c, 45-1 


227. 277. 330 




Sweet-scented Flowers' . . 




275 




Sweet Sultan 


32-A '.'.'.'.'.'.... 


240 




Sweet William .... 


31-B-f. 31-B-g, 31-1. 31-J, 31-N, 32-H- 


i 225, 232, 233, 236, 246 




Wild 


28-B, 31-C-a, 31-C-b, 40-A . . . 


198, 227, 228, 289 




Sword Flower {See also Gladio 








lus) 


31-G, 36-E-a, 45-1 


231, 274, 330 




Sycamore 


39 


285 




Symphoricarpos (in variety) 


11-B, 12-E-d, 20-D-a, 20-D-b . . 


120, 126, 166 




ocddentalis 


25-B 


187 




racemosus 


12-E-e, 13-A-a. 13-B-a, 17, 20-B, 27 


126. 129, 130, 149, 163. 


193, 




42-A-b, 45-F-a, 46-C-b , . . 


297, 324, 337 




vnlzaiis 


13-A-a, 13-B-a. 17, 20-B, 24-B-b 


129, 130, 149, 163, 182, 


191, 




25-B-c. 27, 29-E-a, 44-B-a, 45-F-a 


207. 314. 324. 337 






46-C-b 






Syuijilocos pamculata , 


20-B 


163 




Syrin^a (in variety) . 


13-A-c. 19-B. 42-A-a 


130. 155. 297 




japotiica 


19-C 


156 




peTsica 


13-A-b 


129 




vulgaris 


11-B, 12-D, 12-E-a, 25-B, 37-A-a 


120. 125, 126, 187, 276. 291 




40-C-b 






vulgaris hvbrida . 


19-1. 46-C-a 


159, 337 




vulgaris President Grevy . 


19-H 


159 




Tabernaemontana 


16-C 


146 




coronaria flare plena . . 


43-A-a, 43-F-a 


305,306 




Table of Contents . . . 




XI 




T aretes erecta 


32-A, 32-H-a, 32-H-b '. '. '. ". 


240, 246 




patula 


32-H-a 


246 




Tallow Tree, Chinese . . 


45-H-a 


329 




Tamarack 


24-A-a, 24-C-a, 2(^A-b, 40-C-a . . 


180, 182, 190, 290 




Tartiarindus indica . 


43-D 


304 




Tamarind 


43-D 


304 




Manila 


43-A, 43-J-a 


301, 310 




Tamarisk 


19-D. 24-B-b, 43-F-b. 43-J-b . . 


156, 182, 30G, 310 




Caspian 


14-B 


135 




French 


17, 40-B 


149, 290 




German 


45-F-c 


326 




Tamarix (in variety) 


19-D, 24-B-b 


156, 182 




caspica 


43-F-b, 43-J-b 


306, 310 




gallica 


17, 40-B 


149. 290 




odessana 


14-B 


135 




Tanacetum 


37-B-b 


277 




Tansy 


37-B-b 


277 




Double 


31-D, 31-E 


229 




Taraxacum officinale . . . 


30-A 


212 




Tarragon 


37-B-b 


277 




Taxodium disHchum . . . 


14-A-a. 16-D-b-l, 24-A-a, 45-E, 45-H-! 


134, 147, 180, 323, 329 




distichum pyramidatum . 


14-A-b 


135 




Taxus (in variety) . . . 


40-B. 42-E. 44-G. 45-E .... 


290, 298, 317, 323 




baccata 


45-D. 4S-G. 46-H-a 


322, 327. 339 




baccata fastigiata . 


16-D-b-l. 46-H-a 


147. 339 




baccata repandens 


9-A. 9-B, 9-E. 15-A. 18-A . . . 


112, 113, 114, 139, 151 




brevifolia 


46-H-a 


339 




canadensis 


9-A. 9-D. 15-A, 24-A-b, 27, 29-C, 29-H 


112. 113. 139. 181, 193, 


205, 




40-C-a 


209.290 




cuspidata 


9-A. 16-B-a. 45-D 


112. 145. 322 




cuspidata brevifolia 


9-A, 9-B, 18-A 


112. 113. 151 




cuspidata capitata. 


9-B 


113 




cuspidata densa 


9-E 


114 




cuspidata nana 


15-A. 16-B-a 


139. 145 




Tea Plant 


43-E-b. 45-B-a. 45-K-b .... 


305. 321. 332 




Tecoma stans .... 


43-F-c 


307 




Telanthera amoena . . . 


32-G-a-l 


243 




bettzickiana .... 


32-G-a-l 


243 




versicolor 


32-G-a-l 


243 




Tetrapanax papyriferum 


43-F-a 


306 




Thalia 


31-L-b 


234 




dealbata 


31-L-b 


234 





Thalictrum 

Name 



434 



Tilia 



Thalictrum (in variety) 






30-A, 45-1 


212. 330 




adiantifolium . 




31-B-h 


226 




aquiUzifoUum . 




15-C. 31-B-b, 31-C-a .... 


140. 223. 228 




dipterocoT f>um 




31-H, 31-L-c 


231.235 




Maidenhair 




31-B-h 


226 




Tkm sinensis . . . 




34-E-b, 45-B-a, 45-K-b .... 


305. 321. 332 




Thermopsis caroliniana . 




31-B-h. 31-H 


226. 231 




Thevetia nereijolia 




43-F<, 43-J-b 


307. 310 




Thorn 




11-A. 12-E-d, 13-B-c, 14-A-a, 19-B 


119. 126, 131, 133, 155, 


158. 


19Ga, 20-B, 20-C, 22-B, 39, 40-B 


162, 163, 173. 285. 289. 


290 


40-C-b 






Black 12A-b 


124 




Cockspur 


12-A-b, 16-B-b. 20-D-b. 26-B-a 


124. 145. 166, 191 




Carrier's Red-flowering 


33-C 


250 




Evergreen 


12-A-a, 12-B, 16-C. 20-B. 20-C, 33-E-b 


124. 146. 163. 253, 297, 


321. 




42-B-a, 45-B-a. 45-G, 46-A-b. . 


327, 335 




Jerusalem 


45-H-a 


328 




Kangaroo 


45-B-a 


320 




Large-flowering . . 


33-C 


250 




Large-fruited .... 


33-C 


250 




Low-growing Fiery . . 


33-E-b 


253 




May 


12-A-b, 16-B-b, 16-D-a, 16-D-b-l 


124, 145, 14G, 147, 166, 


186 




20-D-b. 25-A, 26-B-a, 46-A-a . . 


191, 335 




Paul's Double Scarlet 








flowering .... 


33-C 


250 




Red-flowering 




33-C 


250 




Round-fruited. . . 




45-G 


327 




Scarlet-fruited . 




12-A-b. 20-D-b. 25-A. 26-B-a, 44-A-a 


124, 166, 186, 191, 313 




Small-leaved Silver . 




45-F-c 


325 




Silver 




43-D, 43-F-a, 45-F-d .... 


304, 306, 326 




Variegated Silver 




45-F-d 


326 




Washmgton . . . 




12-A-b. 20-D-b, 26-B-b. 33-C . . 


124, 166, 191, 250 




Thoroughwort, Rough . 
Thrift, Lauch's Sea . . 




24-A-a 


180 






31-B-c 


223 




Sea 




29-A. 29-F, 29-G, 31-K-b, 45-J . . 


204, 208, 209, 233, 331 




White Sea ... . 




31-B-b 


223 




Thuja (in variety) . 




12-A-a, 14-A-a, 30-A, 42-E . . . 


124, 134. 212. 298 




occidentalis . 




9-B, 9-D. 24-A-a, 24-C-a, 44-F . . 


113, 180, 182,316 




occidentahs aurea . 




9-A 


112 




occidentalis compacta . 




9-E 


114 




occidentalis douglasi . 




9-A 


112 




occidentalis dumosa 




9-E 


114 




occidentalis ellwangeriana 




9-E, 12-B 


114, 125 




occidentalis jastigiata 




14-A-b 


135 




occidentalis ^lobosa 




9-A. 9-E, 12-B. 18-A .... 


112, 114, 125, 151 




occidentalis hovevi 




9-E 


114 




occidentalis. Little Gem 




9-A, 9-E. 18-A 


112, 114, 151 




occidentalis lutea . 




16-D-b-2 


147 




occidentalis nana . 




9-E 


114 




occidentalis pticata 




9-A, 14-A-b 


112, 135 




occidentalis puntila 




9-E 


114 




occidentalis pyramidalis 




9-A. 16-A. 16-C 


112. 145. 146 




occidentalis reidi . 




9-E 


114 




occidentalis Tosenthali 




9-A 


112 




occidentalis Tom Thumb o 








variety unibraculilera 


12-B 


125 




occidentalis vervaeneana . 


9-A 


112 




occidentalis wagneriana 




9-E 


114 




occidentalis wareana . 




9-A. 9-B, 16-D-b-2 


112. 113. 147 




occidentalis woodward 






9-E 


114 




orientalis 






9-B, 16-D-b-2, 45-B-a, 45-D . . 


113, 147.321.322 




orientalis pyramidalis 






14-A-b. 45-E 


135, 323 




phcata .... 






16-D-b-2 


147 




Thujopsis doloinata . 






9-C 


303 




Thunbergia . . . 






43-C-a ; 


303 




atata .... 






35-B-a 


265 




erccta alba . 






43-F-a 


306 




Thunbergia . . . 






35-B-a, 43-C-a 


2G5. 303 




White .... 






43-F-a 


306 




Thyme, Downy . . 






15-C, 29-A, 29-F. 31-K-b. 33-E-b . 


140, 204, 208, 233, 253 




Thymus serpyllum . 






32-G-a-l 


243 




serpvllum lanuRinosus 






15-C. 29-A, 29-F, 31-K-b, 33-Eb . 


140. 204, 208, 233. 253 




Tiarella cordijoha 






29-F 


208 




Tickseed .... 






31-B-h, 31-D. 32-A, 32-D, 43-1 


225. 229. 240, 241. 309 




Dwarf .... 






15-C 


140 




Lance-leaved . 






31-B-h. 31-1 


225. 232 




Tick Trefoil . . . 






30-B 


213 




Tilia (in variety) 






37-A-b 


276 










24-A-a, 44-E-a 


180. 315 




euchlora 






10-A, 46-D 


117.337 




europaea 






11-A 


119 




iomentosa . 






10-A, n-A, 14-A-a 


117. 119, 134 




tultOTIS . . . 






10-A, 46-F 


117. 338 





Toad-flax 435 Trees 

Name Group Page 

Toad-flax. Dalmatian . . . 24-E. 31-D 184. 229 

Tobacco Plant 32-E 242 

Tobira Shrub 43-E-a. 43-F-a. 43-J-b, 45-B-a. 4S-F-d. 305. 306, 310, 320, 326, 332 

45-K-b 

Tomatillo 43-C-a, 43-J-c 303,311 

Tooth-wort, Two-leaved . . 45-J 331 

Topiary Work, Plants for 145 

Pruning for 23 

Torenia fla^a 32-G-a-2 244 

Yellow 32-G-a-2 244 

Touch-me-not 35-B-b 266 

Trachelospermum jasminotdes . 43-C-a, 45-L 303, 333 

Tradescantia 31-B-a, 31-C-a 222, 228 

virginica 31-D 229 

Transplanting, Articles on 348 

Transplanting 29 

Annuals difficult to trans- 
plant 32-C 241 

Annuals, Transplanting of 51 

Balled-and-burlapped root 

systems 38 

Collected stock. Transplant- 
ing 33 

Conditions for transplanting 32 

Depth for transplanting 39 

Drainage for transplanted 

stock 38 

Evergreens, Transplanting of 48 

Fertilizing transplanted stock 40 

Heeling-in stock to be trans- 
planted 36 

Irises, Transplanting of 90 

Nursery-grown trees Trans- 
planting of ... . 46 

Nursery stock, Transplanting 33 

Peonies, Transplanting of . 90 

Perennials Requiring trans- 
planting 31-K 233 

Perennials, Transplanting of 47 

Planting beds. Preparation of 36 

Plants difficult to transplant 40-C 290 

Rarely transplanted . . 40-C-a 290 

Recovering slowly . . . 40-C-b 290 

Pruning transplanted stock . 41 

Reasons for transplanting . 29 

Rhododendrons, Transplant- 
ing of 49 

Root protection and pud- 
dling for transplanting . 37 

Season for transplanting . . 35, 286 

See also graphic chart . Plate III 14 

Shrubs, Transplanting effi- 
ciently 47 

Spacing of plants 29 

Specific seasons for trans- 
planting 40 286 

Autumn. List for . . . 40-A 289 

Spring, List for. . . . 40-B 289 

Tamping and watering 40 

Transplanting small seed- 
lings 40 

Trees, transplanting of . . 42 

Drainage of holes or pits . 43 

Fertilizing transplanted 

trees 45 

Method of procedure in 

transplanting large trees 43 

Protection after trans- 
planting 44. illus. 40 

Pruning trees after trans- 
planting 45 

Season to transplant and 

preparation of holes. . 42 

Vines, Transplanting of . . 47 

Winter protection after trans- 
planting 41 

Trees ■v^ 

Accent and specimens . . 14-A-a 133 

Books on 345, 346. 347 

Columnar or pyramidal . 14-A-b 134 

Congested city districts 11-A 119 

Exposed w ater- front condi- 
tions 25- A 386 



Trees 



Name 



Group 



Ulmus 



Trees. Fast-growing 
Fertilizers for 

Established specimens. 
Newly transplanted speci- 
mens 

Flowering efifects .... 

Fruiting effects .... 

Lists oftrees for 

Street and avenue (See 

Street and avenue plant 

ing) . . . 

Pruning of, ... 

Soils, Types for different 

Specimen planting 

Transplanting of . 

Windbreaks and screens 

Tree of Heaven ... 

Tree surgery .... 

Tufolium .... 

refjeus 

Trillium 

erectum .... 
ereclum album 
gTOTidiflorum 
Triphasta trifoliala . . 
TtoIUus europaeus 
Tropaeolum canariense . 
niajus 

Trumpet Creeper, Chinese 

Hybrid .... 
Trumpet Flower. 
Trumpet Vine . 

Argentine .... 
Tsuga canadensis 



canadensis globosa 
canadensis nana 
canadensis pendula (sargenti) 
cawliniana . 
heterophylla 
Tub plants 
Tube-flower, Chinese 
Tufted Pansy — See 

Tufted 
Tulips 
Combinations of 
Cottage Tulips 
Darwin Tuljps 
Double Tulips 
Single Tulips 
Early 

Early-flowering Red 
Lady . 
Tulipa 
clusiana 
greiii 
kaufi 
Tulip Tree 

Pyramidal 
Tunica saxijrasa. 

Saxifrage-like . 
Tupelo 

Turkey Fruit 
Turk's Cap . 
Turk's Turban . 
Tussilago farfara 
Twigs, Coloured . 
Twin-flower . 



10-B. 11-A, 20-F. 



23-A. 24-D. 39, 45-C 



30-A . . . 

37-A-c . . . 

28-B, 29-H, 40-A 

36-B . . . 

29-C . . . 

31-B-b, 3I-C-b. 36-B 

43-D, 43-E-a . 

31-B-d, 40-A . 

32-F-a . . . 

32-A. 32-C, 35-A-b. 35-B 

32-G-b-2 . 

43-C-a, 45-L 

45-L . . 

43-F-c, 43-J-b 

29-E-c, 34-A. 34-B, 

45-L, 46-G 
43-J-c . . 
9-A, 9-B, 9-D, 12-A 

16-B-a20-D-b,24-C-a; 27, 

40-C-a, 44-F, 46-E 
9-E ... 
9-E ... 
9-E ... 
9-A, 9-B. 12-C 
14-A-b, 46-H-a 
16-C . . . 
43-1. . . . 



36-D 

36-D< 

36-D-d 

36-D-b 

36-D-a 

36-B 

36-B 

36-B 

36-A 

36-B 

36-B 

36-B 

10-B, 20-A, 

42-C 
14-A-b 
15-C, 24-E, 
15-C, 24-E, 
14-A-a, " 

45-C, 45 
43-D . 
43-F-d . 
43-D . 
29-C 



21 . 
15-A. 29-F 



F, 31-C-b 
F, 31-C-b 
24-A-a, 40- 



117. 119, 166, 177, 183, 285, 321 

73 

212 

277 

198, 209. 289, illus. 302 

271 

205 

223, 228. 271 
304, 305 

224, 289 

240, 241, 265. 310 

303, 332 

332 

307 

207, 260. 261, 303, 332, 338 



112, 113. 124, 125, 134. 145. 

166, 182, 193, 197, 213, 290, 

316, 338 
114 
114 
114 

112. 113, 125 
135, 139 
146, illus. 174 
309 



272 
272 
272 
271 
271 



271 
270 
271 



135 



140. 184. 205, 208, 228 
140, 183. 205. 208, 228 
133. 165. 173. 180, 290. 321, 

328 
304 
307 
304 
205 

168, Ulus. 246 
138,208 



Ulex europaeus . 
Ulmus (in variety) 

alata 

americana . 

carnpeslris . 



46-A-b 335 

24-D 183 

45-C 322 

10-A, 22-A. 24-A-a, 25-A, 40-B, 43-B-a, 117, 173. 180, 186, 290, 301, 

44-E-a, 46-D 315. :J37 

10-B, 11-A, 16-D-a 117, 119, 147 



Ulmus 



437 



Vinca 



Ulmus foUacea wkealley. . . 14-A-a. 14-A-b, 16-D-b-l . . . 


134. 135, 147 




foliacea dampitri 


. . . . 14-A-b 


135 




glabra . 


. . . 10-A 


117 




glabra camperdowr 


1 . . . 14-A-a 


134 




glabra fastigiata 


. . . 16-D-b-l 


147 




lytonlatia pendula 


. . . . 45-H-a 


329 




Umbrella Plant . 


. . . 35-B-c. 43-1 


266,309 




Umbrella Tree , 


. . . 43-B-a. 45-C. 45-G. 45-H-a, 45-K-a 


301, 321. 327. 328. 331 




Undergrowth planting in 






wooded areas 


... 28 


194, illus. 255 




Ground-cover plants for. . 28-B 


197 




Shrubs and small 


trees for . 28-A 


196 




Upland Grass . 


. . . 38-C-a 


280 




Vaccinium (in varie 


y) . . . 20-B. 20-D-a. 24-A-a, 30-A, 33-E-b 


163. 166. 180, 212, 253 




corvmbosum 


. . . 22-B. 24-B-b. 44-C-b .... 


173, 182, 314 




vaciUans 


. . . 40-C-a 


290 




Valerian . 


. . . 37-A-c 


277 




Greek . . . 


. . . 29-F, 31-B-a, 31-C-b. 45-1 . . . 


208, 222, 228, 330 




Red ... 


. . . 45-J 


331 




Valeriana. . . 


. . . 37-A-c 


277 




Vancouver ia hexandr 


a . . . 15-C 


140 




Varnish Tree. . 


. . . 14-A-a. 19-C. 19-F-b, 22-A, 24-D 


133, 155, 158, 173, 183, 


297, 




42-B-a. 45-H-a 


328 




Japanese . . 


. . . 45-H-a, 45-K-a 


329,331 




Veratrum viride . 


. . . 38-A 


279 




Verbascum 


. . . 31-D 


229 




olympicum 


. . . 24-E 


184 




phoeniceum 


. . . 24-E 


184 




phlomoides 


. . . 24-E 


184 




Verbena . 


. . . 29-1, 32-A, 32-E, 32-G-b-2, 32-H-a 


210, 240, 242, 244, 246, 


265. 




35-B-a, 39, 43-1 


285, 310 




hybrida . 


. . . 29-1, 32-A, 32-E. 32-G-b-2, 32-H-a 


210, 240, 242, 244, 246, 


265. 




35-B-a, 43-1 


310 




Vernonia noveboracer 


CIS. . . 38-C-a 


281 




Veronica (in variety 


. . . 30-A, 31-1, 39, 45-1 


212. 232, 285, 330 




incana . 


. . . 15-C. 31-B-a 


140, 222 




longifolia subsessil 


s . . . 31-B-o, 31-H 


224, 231 




repens . 


. . . 15-C, 29-A, 29-G 


140, 204, 209 




Tupeslris . . 


. . . 29-F 


208 




spicata . 


. . . 31-B-e, 31-H 


224, 232 




teucrium^ variety 


•>roslrala . 29-F 


208 




Vetch . . . 


. . . 30-B 


213 




Viburnum (in variet 


y) . . . 11-B. 12-D, 13-B-c, 19-G-a, 20-B 


120, 125, 131, 158, 163, 


166, 




20-D-b, 24-B-b, 24-C-b. 42-A-a . 


182, 297 




Viburnum (in variet 


y) . . . 11-B, 12-D, 13-B-c, 19-G-a. 20-B 


120, 125, 131, 158, 163, 


166. 




20-D-b. 24-B-b. 24-C-b. 42-A-a . 


182, 297 




acerifolium . 


. . . 13-B-b. 22-B, 27, 28-A, 44-C-b . . 


131, 173, 193, 197, 314 




ainifolium . 


... 27 


193 




americanum 


. . . 19-1. 20-C, 46-C-b 


159. 164, 337 




carlesi . 


. . . 13-A-b. 19-C, 37-A-a, 46-C-a . . 


129, 156, 276, 337 




cassinoides 


. . . 13-A-b, 19-C, 26-A-c .... 


129, 156, 190 




dentatutn 


. . . 19-C. 22-B, 26-A-c, 27 ... . 


156, 173, 190, 193 




dilatatmn . 


. . . 13-A-b, 20-C 


129, 164 




Evergreen . . 


. . . 22-C-b-l, 33-E-b 


175, 253 




Fragrant Japanese 


. . . 43-F-a 


306 




Korean . 


. . . 13-A-b, 19-C. 37-A-a, 46-C-a . . 


129, 156, 276, 337 




lantana . 


. . . 13-A-c 


130 




lentafio . 


. . . 13-A-c, 19-C, 26-B-c, 27 . . . 


130, 156, 191, 193 




Maple-leaved . 


. . . 13-B-b. 22-B, 27, 28-A, 44-C-b . . 


131, 173, 193, 197, 314 




macTocephalum 


. . . 22-C-b-l 


175 




nudum . 


. . . 24-A-b 


181 




odoratissimum 


. . . 43-F-a 


306 




opulus . 


. . . 13-A-c. 17, 19-C, 20-C. 25-B, 27 . 


130, 149, 156, 164, 187, 193 


opulus nanum 


. . . 12-B, 15-B, 16-B-b, 18-B, 22-C-b-l 


125, 139, 145, 151, 175 




plicatum . . 


. . . 40-B, 40-C-b 


290, 291 




prunifolium 


. . . 16-B-b, 19-B, 27 


145, 155, 193 




pubescens . 


... 27 


193 




rhvlidophyllum 


. . . 22-C-b-l. 33-E-b 


175, 253 




sieboldi . . 


. . . 19-C. 22-C-b-l 


156, 175 




Siebold's . . 


. . . 19-C, 22-C-b-l 


156, 175 




suspensum 


. . . 45-F-d 


326 




tinus 


. . . 43-E-a. 43-F-a, 45-B-a, 45-F-d, 45-H-b 


305, 306, 321, 326, 329. 


332. 




45-K-b, 46-A-b 


335 




tomentosum 


. . . 13-A-b, 19-B 


129, 155 




Vicia .... 


. . . 30-B 


213 




Vinca (in variety) 


. . . 43-1 


310 




major 


. . . 35-A-b. 35-A-c, 35-B-a, 45-A-b . . 


265, 320 




minor 


. . . 15-C. 29-B. 29-A. 29-B, 29-C. 29-E-b 


140, 198, 204, 205. 207, 


208, 




29-F. 29-H, 31-B-a, 33-E-b, 45-A-a 


210, 222. 253, 319, 336 






46-B-b 






mitior alba . 


. . , 29-H 


210 





Vmca 


438 








White Cup 


Name 


Group Page 


Vinca. Trailing . . . 


35-A-b, 35-A-c, 35-B-a, 45-A-b . . . 265. 320 


Vines 


34 




258, Ulus. 350 


Annual 


32-F 








242 


Bool<s on 










549 


Fast-growing .... 


34-E '.'.'.'.'. 








261, illus. 334 


Flowering 


34-A 








260 


Foliage 


34-C 








260 


Fruiting 


34-D 








261 


Holding leaves in late au 












tumn .... 


22-C-b-2 .... 








175 


Protection of ... . 










104 


Walls. For brick and masonr 


y 34-B '. ' '. ■. '. 








260, illus. 335, 345, 367 


Viola (in variety) 


15-C, 29-H, 31-A. 31-K-l: 


". 43-L 45-1 


140. 210, 222, 233, 310, 330 


canadensis 


28-B, 31-C-b . . . 
31-C-b 








198, 228 
228 


cojnuta 


29-A, 29-1, 31-B-a, 31-D 


■31 


-J, 45-A-a 


204, 210, 222, 229, 233, 319 


cornuta alba .... 


31-B-b 








223 


cornula hybrida 


31-F 








230 


cornuta lutea .... 


31-B-d 








224 


cucullala 


28-B 








198 


odorata 


31-B-a 








222 


odorata semperJUnens . 


37-A-c 








277 


pedato 


29-F 








208 


tricolor 


29-A, 29-L 31-J, 32-A, 3 


2-E 




204, 210, 233, 240, 242 


Violet 


15-C. 29-H, 31-A, 31-K 
43-1, 45-1 .. . 


b, 37-A< 


39 


140. 210. 222, 233, 277. 285, 
310, 330 


Bird's Foot .... 


29-F 








208 


Canadian 


28-B. 31-C-b . . . 








298, 228 


Common 


28-B 








198 


Dogtooth 


31-C-b 








228 


Homed 


31-B-b. 31-F . . . 








223, 230 


Scented 


31-B-a 








222 


Yellow Homed . 


31-B-d 








224 


Virginia Creeper. . 


20-D-a, 22-B. 24-B-c. 25-C, 26-A-c 


165, 173. 182, 187, 190, 207, 




29-E-c. 34-C, 34-D, 39, 43-C-a, 44-B-t 


260, 261, 285, 302. 314, 319 




44-C-b, 45-A-b 




Vitex agnus-castus . . . 


16-C. 19-D, 19-H. 40-B, 45-H-b 




146. 156, 159. 290. 329 


incisa 


42-A-b 




297 


Vitis (in variety) . . . 


20-D-a, 24-B-c, 25-C 






166, 182, 187 


capensis 


43-C-a 






303 


coignetiae 


29-E-c 






207 


Cut-leaved 


25-C. 29-E-C, 34-D, 34-E 






187, 207, 261 


Wake Robin 


28-B, 29-H, 36-B, 40-A 198. 209, 271, 289 


Large-flowered 


31-B-b, 31-C-b, 36-B 








223, 228, 271 


White 


29-C 








205 


Wallflower 


32-E, 37-A< . . . 








242, 276 


Hybrid 

Wall Gardens .... 


24-E 








184 


15 








136, Ulus. 143 


Books on 










347 


Walnut 


39 








285 


Black 


38-C-a, 40-C-a . . 








281,290 


False 


45-H-a 








328 


Japanese 


45-H-a 








328 


Wandering Jew .... 


43-G 








308 


Washington (see Oregon) 












Washinstonia robusta 


43-B-b 








302 


Water Amm .... 


31-L-b 








324 


Water Gardens, Books on . 










347 


Water Leaf 


29-C '.'.'.'.'. 








205 


Appendaged .... 


29-C 








205 


Water-lily 

Hybrid 

White 


43-1 








310. illus. 318 


31-L-a 








234 


31-L-a 








234 


Yellow 


31-L-a 








234 


Water-plantain .... 


31-L-b 








234 


Water Poppy 


43-1 








309 


Water-side planting . . 










illus. 318. 319 


Perennials for ... 


31-D .' .' .' .' .' 








234 


Shrubs for .... 


25-B 








187 


Wayfaring Tree .... 


I3-A-C 








130 


Weedy Plants .... 


31-E 








369 


Weigela 


17 








149 


Hybrid 


13-A-b, 19-C, 19-1, 42-A- 


a, 4 


6-C-a 




129, 155, 159. 296, 336 


Pink 


13-A-c 








129 


Rose-coloured . . . 


13-A-c, 19-E-b, 23-B 








129, 157, 177 


Variegated 


14-B. 27 ... . 








135, 193 


Wcstem Sweet-scented Shrub 


45-F-a 








325 


White Cup 


35-B-b 








266 



White Flowers 



White Flowers 

Perennials with 
Shrubs with 
White Fringe 

Whitlow Grass, Aizoon-like 
Wild Gardens . 

Bulbs for . . 

Maintenance of 

Perennials for 

Undergrowth plantings for 
Wild Hyacinth . 
Willow . . . 

Black . . . 
Dwarf Gray . 

Flowering , 

Goat 

Golden -barked 

Hybrid Yellow 

Laurel-leaved . 

Pussy . 

Rosemary 

Shining, 

Virginian 

Weeping 

White . 

Wisconsin Weeping 

Yellow . 
Windbreaks 

List of plants for 
Windflower, Canadian 

Japanese . . 

Snowdrop . 
Window boxes and 
baskets 
Hanging baskets . 
Upright habit and 

flowers 
Upright habit and 

foliage 
Vine-like habit . 
Window boxes 
East exposure . 
North expwsure , 
South or west exposure 
Winter 
Colour of twigs in 
Fruits persistent in 
Winter Protection and Mulch- 
ing 

Articles on 

Bulbs, Winter protection o 
General considerations . 
Lawns, Mulching of - 
Perennials, Winter protection 
of (see also "Mainten- 

Reasons for winter protection 
Rhododendrons, Winter pro- 
tection of. . , 
Roses, Winter protectit 
Sources of winter injury and 

remedy 
Trees and shrubs. Winter 

protect i< 
Vines. Winter protection of . 
Winterberry . 

Wintergreen . 

Winter killing 
Wisconsin, Plants, for 
Wisteria .... 

Chinese 

Japanese 

multijuga . 

sinensis 
Witch Hazel . . . 



439 

Group 



12-( 



41 



31-B . . 
19-G. 43-F-a 
13-B-c. 14-B, 1 
22- A, 42-A-a. 
15-C, 24-E 

36-B 

31-C 
28-B 
36-B 
10-C, 11-A, 

39. 44-A 
38-C-b . 
24-B-b . 
45-H-a. 45-H- 
19-A. 19-F-a, 
21, 26-B 
14-A-a, 2 
16-D-a, 26-B-a 
19-F-a . 
25-B . 
26-A-a . 
13-B-a. 18 

45-F-c 
17 . . 
21, 26-A-a . 
14-A-a 
25-A , 
12 . . 
12-C . 
15-C, 28-B, 
31-A,31-B-j 

40-B . 
31-B-b . 

35 . . 



26-B<, 37-A-i 



35-B-b . 

35-B-c . 
35-B-a . 
35-A 
35-A-b . 
35-A-c . 
35-A-a . 

21 . 



13-B-c, 20-B, : 
26-A-c, 28-A 

15-A, 20-D-i 
33-E-b . 



46-G 
46-G 
24-C-( 
13-B-c 



20-D-b, 
,-a, ■ 29-1 



Japanese 



Witch Hazel 

Pace 



222 

158, 305 

131. 135, 149, 155. 158, 162. 

173. 296, 306, 329 
140. 184 
illus. 302, 303 
270 
95 
227 
194 
270 
117. 119. 125. 177. 180, 212, 

285, 313, illus. 94 
281 
181 

328, 329, 332 
154, 159, 293 
170, 191 
134. 170 
147. 191 
158 
187 
189 
130. 151, 180, 191, 296. 326 

149 

170. 189 

134 

186 

122. illus. 110 

125 

139. 197. 222. 227, 289 

221, 226, 230, 232, 233, 289. illus. 

222 



266 
265 
264 
264 
265 
264 



100 
349 
103 
106 
106 



101 

105. illus. 62 

104 

131, 163, 166. 180, 190, 196 

138, 165, 180. 204, 205, 253 

101 

260, 261, 285. illus. 350 

183. 339 

339 

339 

183 339 

131.' 156. 174, 181, 182, 193, 

196, 212, 285, 296 
154, 158 



Withe-rod 



440 



Zygadenus 



Name Croup 

Withe-rod 13-A-b. 19-C. 26-A-c . 

Large 24-A-b 

Wolfberry 25-B 






Wolfs-milk, Yellow . . . 24-E 

Woman's Tongue Tree . . . 43-B-b 






Woodruff 31-C-b 






Sweet 29-A. 29-F, 37-A-c, 37-B-b 

Woodland Planting .... 28 


















Wormwood 42-B-b. 45-1 .... 

Beach 24-E 












Woundwort, Woolly . . . 24-E 

Xanlhoceras 42-B-a 






sojbifolia 19-C 


Xanthonhiza apiifolia . . . 13-A-a, 18-B, 24-A-b, 29-E-a, 29-H . 
XyloTjhiza parzyi .... 38-A 


Yarrow, Oriental .... 24-E 

Yellow flowers 


Shrubs with 19-F, 43-F-c 

Yellow-root 13-A-a, 18-B, 24-A-b, 29-E-a, 29-H 

Yellow-wood 14-A-a, 19-C, 19-G-b, 22-C-a, 42-B-b, 

45-H-a 


Yew 40-B, 42 E, 44-G, 45-E 

Columnar Stem-fruited . . 45-E 






English 45 D, 45-G, 46-H-a 

False 9-C 




40-C-a 


Irish 16-D-b-l, 46-H-a 


Japanese 9-A, 15-A, 16-B-a, 45-D .... 




Spreading English . . . 9-A. 9-B, 9-E, 15-A, 18-A .... 
Western 46-H-a 


Ylang-Ylang 43-B-b 

False 43-F-c 


Yucca (in variety) .... 24-E, 39. 42-B-b .... 

filamenlosa 18-A. 29-B, 29-G, 31-B- 

37-A-c, 43-1, 45-A-b, 45-B 
flaccida 18-A, 45-A-b 


, 33-E-b', 


^a, 45-F-b 


tlauca 45-F-b 


glmiosa 45-F-b 


Zanlhoxylum omericanum . . 27. 28-A, 29-E-a 

Zebiina pendula 43-G 

Zenobia 33-E-b 

Zcnobia 45-F-a 


puiverulenta 33-E-b 

speciosa 45-F-a 


Zinnia 32-A, 32-H-a, 43-1 

tlegans 32-A. 32-H-a, 43-1 

ele^ans robusta 32-H-b 

Tall 32-H-b 




Zoysia matreka 43-G 

lenuifolia 43-G 

Zygadenus inlttmedius . . . 38-A 



187 

184 

301 

228 

204, 208, 276, 277 

194 

206 

206 

297,330 

184 

313 

184 



297 

129, 151. 181, 207, 210 
279 

184 

222, iUus. 292, 310 

157, 306 

129, 151, 181, 207, 210 

133, 155, 158, 173, 297, 328 

290, 298, 317, 323, illus. 78 • 

322 

113 

114 

322, 327, 339 

113 

322 3''8 

112; ri3. 139, 180, 193, 205, 

209. 290 
147, 339 

112. 139, 145,322 
322 

112, 113, 151 
112, 113, 114. 139, 151 
339 
302 
306 

184, 285. 297 
151, 205, 209, 225, 253, 277, 

310. 320. 321. 325 
151. 320 
325 
325 



193, 197, 207 
308 
253 
324 
253 
324 

240, 246, 310 
240, 246, 310 
246 
246 
6 
308 
308 
279 




THE COUNTRY LIFE PRESS 
GARDEN CITY, N. Y. 




'7-vv''3-iO^'D 



